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Al-Saqr posted:snip My own painting is nothing to write home about, but as to the camera, I found an app called Open Camera on Android and it feels that my pictures are more realistic with it, or at least it won't take wild colour liberties
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Dec 22, 2022 22:53
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Al-Saqr posted:WiP Morko from Metal Squig! I have an Ikea swivel lamp with a daylight bulb. In total it was less than $20. I have two, but that’s my preference. I use it with some tissue paper to diffuse the light when photographing. Best lighting purchase I’ve ever made.
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Dec 23, 2022 06:14
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I think I need to get one of those Neat lamps....I'm rocking the two swivel lamps with daylight bulbs but it's not quite enough in my dark little corner.
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Dec 23, 2022 06:15
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A friend of mine has dug up an old chaos space army he bought around 2007, a pretty large force, all primed black and nothing else. What I'm wondering is, if we want to start painting those models, should we remove the primer from all models and reapply the primer, or can we use the old primer? I don't have a clue if such old primer can hold up if we start painting over them.
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Dec 23, 2022 11:44
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Try painting a couple of models and see what happens. You can always strip them later.
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Dec 23, 2022 11:58
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Siivola posted:Try painting a couple of models and see what happens. You can always strip them later. And remember to wash them first (warm water, a bit of soap) to get the dust off.
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Dec 23, 2022 12:56
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Siivola posted:Try painting a couple of models and see what happens. You can always strip them later. Pierzak posted:And remember to wash them first (warm water, a bit of soap) to get the dust off. Good advice, I guess we are gonna sacrifice a couple chaos marines to the dark gods of painting and see what happens.
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Dec 23, 2022 14:11
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I think it will be fine, just get the dust off
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Dec 23, 2022 14:14
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Angry Lobster posted:Good advice, I guess we are gonna sacrifice a couple chaos marines to the dark gods of painting and see what happens. The majority of my space marines army was from a job lot of old 2000s minis already primed and some already painted, I just went over them with no stripping or anything and it worked fine. The real pain is realizing half of them are missing their guns/backpacks.
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Dec 23, 2022 15:14
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I just finished a mini that I think I can safely say is the best mini I've ever painted (as in I don't feel like I screwed anything up and I'm happy with the effects etc.) And it's a freaking bog standard line troop . But hey. This was a ton of fun to paint. Only about a hundred more of these guys. 
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Dec 23, 2022 16:15
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Great work! The eyes look simple but really effective!
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Dec 23, 2022 16:24
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Yeah the eyes are real good.
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Dec 23, 2022 16:25
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Count Thrashula posted:I just finished a mini that I think I can safely say is the best mini I've ever painted (as in I don't feel like I screwed anything up and I'm happy with the effects etc.) And it's a freaking bog standard line troop . But hey. This was a ton of fun to paint. Only about a hundred more of these guys. I adore how you did that sword! Did you apply a wash or does that silver paint just catch the light really well?
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Dec 23, 2022 16:25
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arsenicCatnip posted:I adore how you did that sword! Did you apply a wash or does that silver paint just catch the light really well? The armor was Vallejo Duraluminum -> Drakenhof Nightshade -> dry brushed Ironbreaker -> edge highlight Vallejo Silver. Probably way overkill for what it is. But also yes the paint is pretty shiny 
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Dec 23, 2022 16:28
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Count Thrashula posted:I just finished a mini that I think I can safely say is the best mini I've ever painted (as in I don't feel like I screwed anything up and I'm happy with the effects etc.) And it's a freaking bog standard line troop . But hey. This was a ton of fun to paint. Only about a hundred more of these guys. This dude looks like he's going to mess me up, looks awesome. Seconding the love on the sword, it's super vivid, but his chest is really detailed and pops super well.
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Dec 23, 2022 16:36
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Professor Shark posted:simple but really effective! I think this is the secret to mini painting
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Dec 23, 2022 16:55
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Finished Morko From Metal Squig! Tried my best with the eyes, had fun making a custom base, will clean up once everything dries! Critiques Please!
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Dec 23, 2022 17:15
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
Crossposting cause I'm proud of it I know I need to add some decals, one of these days. I got the microsol stuff...I'm just a bit intimidated
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Dec 23, 2022 17:44
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Al-Saqr posted:Finished Morko From Metal Squig! First off: great job!! Critique that I give everyone, especially myself: You need three more things; contrast, contrast, contrast. Try darker shadows with a different tone that either pushes the baes color cooler (i.e. on the red coat dark purple) or to a complementary color (again on the coat, do dark green shadows) For highlights, really go nuts, again shifting the color towards yellow. I always have to force myself to go farther than I think, and I'm always glad I did. But as-is, it's super good, and you are well on your way to awesomeness!
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Dec 23, 2022 18:20
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Al-Saqr posted:Finished Morko From Metal Squig! Looks real good! The one thing I'd flag up is the base; your base decoration guy has the same skin tone as your ork, with a very similar highlight colour too, so it catches the eye and kind of distracts from the figure. I'd have gone darker with it myself, or at least not green. Maybe purple?
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Dec 23, 2022 18:28
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Al-Saqr posted:Finished Morko From Metal Squig! Paint the rim of the base black, it's kinda sloppy right now
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Dec 23, 2022 18:32
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Lumpy posted:First off: great job!! SiKboy posted:Looks real good! The one thing I'd flag up is the base; your base decoration guy has the same skin tone as your ork, with a very similar highlight colour too, so it catches the eye and kind of distracts from the figure. I'd have gone darker with it myself, or at least not green. Maybe purple? This is really great advice thanks! Ill make a purple pass on the little alien dude as soon as possible! Spanish Manlove posted:Paint the rim of the base black, it's kinda sloppy right now Will do once it dries off and i remove it from the stand!
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Dec 23, 2022 18:32
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Whenever I do cloth I like to think about where the natural wear points would be and really buff the layers towards and almost too light color there (see the knees of my Rocket Launcher Scouts). I’m this case I would say the elbows should almost be pink and the pant knees cream- presumably this Ork doesn’t take care of his stuff and has been wearing these cloths for a while. Otherwise, more layers would help imo. I like him!
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Dec 23, 2022 19:25
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Lumpy posted:Critique that I give everyone, especially myself: You need three more things; contrast, contrast, contrast. Try darker shadows with a different tone that either pushes the baes color cooler (i.e. on the red coat dark purple) or to a complementary color (again on the coat, do dark green shadows) For highlights, really go nuts, again shifting the color towards yellow. I always have to force myself to go farther than I think, and I'm always glad I did. It’s always this. Bit long for a thread title though
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Dec 23, 2022 21:24
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Yeah I'm noticing I need to push my colors brighter, it's just harder because I've been using the slapchop method with contrasts but it's just not quite bright enough, even using bold white titanium undercoat. So, I need to come back and find what colors I have match and brighten it that way
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Dec 23, 2022 21:35
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grassy gnoll posted:I also have a Sotar, and if I'd had the ability to try it before hand, I would not have a Sotar. That makes me sad Bucnasti posted:Yeah I can't think of a real practical use for it in regards to mini painting. It's so sensitive to paint viscosity and takes forever to get dialed in it's just a whole lot easier to paint with a tiny brush. Wat Not only can I prime with no issues with the 0.2mm needle, if for some reason I feel the cone is too small I can just swap it to the 0.4mm and match the 105. There's even a 0.7mm needle if you want, and they make a sotar with a huge cup as well.
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Dec 23, 2022 22:14
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Does it still get to be called a miniature if it takes 5 passes on a 3d printer to print all of it?
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Dec 23, 2022 22:33
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Does it still get to be called a miniature if it takes 5 passes on a 3d printer to print all of it? It’s called a biggie
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Dec 23, 2022 22:44
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Beffer posted:It’s called a biggie "Bigature" is the term Weta Workshop used for their LOTR stuff.
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Dec 23, 2022 22:56
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The Demilich posted:That makes me sad There's absolutely a place for a super-fine airbrush, and the Sotar just ain't it. The build quality and features aren't improved enough in comparison to a Patriot or a Neo, but not nice enough to justify over spending a little more and getting a really nice brush like an Infinity. Like, practically I'll keep using the 105 and a ton of masking whenever I need a fine line regardless of what tools I have available to me, but the Sotar is more frequently a hassle than a help.
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Dec 23, 2022 22:57
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RE: contrast and pushing values in your paintjobs feel like I have even seen this said before ITT but one quick way to just your values is to take a picture with your phone and put it in grayscale. Related to this check how your mini looks when not under your bright painting lights as those lights will make things pop more than they do under most of the viewing conditions your models will be in, assuming you are painting for tabletop gaming and not a well-lit display piece in a cabinet.
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Dec 23, 2022 22:57
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Remember, contrast paints aren't like putting a colour filter layer over your greyscale in Photoshop. They contain pigments which have their own tone values so you will never get close the brightness of the underlying white. You can up the contrast by either going over it by hand and highlighting the old fashioned way or dry brushing white and then contrast over that until it's bright enough.
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Dec 23, 2022 23:07
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Does it still get to be called a miniature if it takes 5 passes on a 3d printer to print all of it? Nice! I’ve got this guy half printed but the torso kept failing so I put it to the side for now
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Dec 23, 2022 23:07
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Eej posted:or dry brushing white and then contrast over that until it's bright enough.  Now that's an idea
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Dec 23, 2022 23:09
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
that's basically what I do. i drybrush up to pure white then I put contrast over it. if that's not bright enough then I'll do touch up highlights after
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Dec 23, 2022 23:57
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Spanish Manlove posted:that's basically what I do. i drybrush up to pure white then I put contrast over it. if that's not bright enough then I'll do touch up highlights after I already do that, I was reading that as after you've dry brush and put the contrast on if it's still not bright enough then drive brush on white and then reapply the contrast that way. I was using Pro acryl's titanium bold White in spots on that sister's model and it's still ended up darker than I intended
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Dec 24, 2022 00:07
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Toebone posted:Nice! I’ve got this guy half printed but the torso kept failing so I put it to the side for now Good luck trying but never actually succeeding at removing the billion teeny supports if you use the OPR pre-supported.
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Dec 24, 2022 01:47
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Does it still get to be called a miniature if it takes 5 passes on a 3d printer to print all of it? Mine is printed and I am painting it but it is only a portion done and does not look quite this nice, but it is a fun model to paint. Maybe I will show a picture when I get home. I used the OPR pre-supports and it was a bit hairy to get them all off. I did have a small print failure, the little worm guy has like two skeletons in a cage and one of the skeletons had some pancake action going on, which was surprising because I don't think you could physically cram in any more supports.
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Dec 24, 2022 01:55
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I already do that, I was reading that as after you've dry brush and put the contrast on if it's still not bright enough then drive brush on white and then reapply the contrast that way. I was using Pro acryl's titanium bold White in spots on that sister's model and it's still ended up darker than I intended Yup, you can do this with any kind of transparent paint. I don't use much contrast myself but you should also be able to do something like drybrushing a bright yellow over green contrast and then green contrast over it to get a warmer highlight (rather than going towards pastel green) on Ork skin, for example. E: if I'm wrong about the yellow drybrush idea don't ban me thanks
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Dec 24, 2022 02:01
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Mine is printed and I am painting it but it is only a portion done and does not look quite this nice, but it is a fun model to paint. Maybe I will show a picture when I get home. I used the OPR pre-supports and it was a bit hairy to get them all off. I did have a small print failure, the little worm guy has like two skeletons in a cage and one of the skeletons had some pancake action going on, which was surprising because I don't think you could physically cram in any more supports. Apparently i had a bad print too because I totally don't have a skeleton in a cage on my print... huh.
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Dec 24, 2022 02:16
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