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Yeah its Toyota CPO bought used from a Toyota dealership. Hows that affect the odometer? Its only got 8k on it but does the odometer change with the engine or stay with the frame?
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Dec 22, 2022 17:12
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Odometer will remain the same. There'll be a note somewhere in its service history that it has had its engine replaced. 8000 miles isn't a lot of miles and doesn't change much imo.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:14
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Harold Fjord posted:Sure. Pre tax $666 for a starter replacement. $1001 for front brakes pad/caliper/rotors and the bleed (lmao 130 in labor to bleed brakes
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Dec 22, 2022 20:46
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). $991 rear pads/calipers/rotors. $1233 to replace front struts. $381 to replace valve cover gasket
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nwin posted:Yeah its Toyota CPO bought used from a Toyota dealership. Odometer ALWAYS stays with the car, not the running gear. 200 miles since buying it before it chucked a rod points at the car being severely abused (as in run out of oil at some point), or having a bad engine to begin with. But that's the dealer's problem.
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Dec 22, 2022 21:06
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almost seven hundred bucks for a starter sounds insane to me, but i probably don't have the best perspective. a new starter is what, like $200 for oem, so that would be like 4 hours of labor quoted? on the old V8s im used to working on, doing the starter would be like half an hour, maybe an hour if i had to take the header off for clearance. does the mazda 6 have the starter under the intake manifold or something, where it really would be a couple hours to peel everything out of the way and then carefully put it back? if so, then maybe it's a more reasonable number than it first seems.
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Dec 22, 2022 21:06
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STR posted:Odometer ALWAYS stays with the car, not the running gear. Oh, I forgot to mention it had been a courtesy car (not sure the correct terminology-loaner car maybe?) before hand, so Im sure it just got used and abused all day long. But my mom refused to pay a markup on a new car since it would have been about $5k more than she bought this one for. I tried to convince her deals dont exist like they used to, but this was a deal to her and I was sick of arguing.
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Dec 22, 2022 21:25
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Raluek posted:almost seven hundred bucks for a starter sounds insane to me, but i probably don't have the best perspective. a new starter is what, like $200 for oem, so that would be like 4 hours of labor quoted? It's under the battery tray and a PITA to get to and you're underestimating what an OEM one costs + markup by about $100 at least. We also don't know what else is included there like cables because we haven't seen the car to diagnose it and write the quote. The car is apparently in deep maintenance debt and the only reason it showed up at a mechanic is because it literally won't go anymore. I'd be padding my estimate as well because you don't know what's going to just crumble in your hands when you touch it with something in this condition.
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Dec 22, 2022 21:28
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I would look up videos on how to do the rotors, valve cover gasket, and starter myself and probably do it all unless it is totally miserable as a project. I don't know about any hidden pitfalls for any of those things on that model, thus the video recommendation. For the 8k mile motor that you only put 200 miles on I would be insisting on warranty, I can't think of a single way to make an 8k mile Toyota toss a rod in 200 miles that wouldn't involve sabotage, is that even two oil changes into the maintenance schedule? CPO and 8k miles mean that should be under warranty unless she did something incredibly stupid like put her signature on a sales contract that said no manufacturer warranty, and even then state law may or may not negate that depending on where you live.
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Dec 22, 2022 22:16
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kastein posted:I would look up videos on how to do the rotors, valve cover gasket, and starter myself and probably do it all unless it is totally miserable as a project. I don't know about any hidden pitfalls for any of those things on that model, thus the video recommendation. Even the 60k/5 year power train would cover something like that, right?
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Dec 22, 2022 22:24
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Raluek posted:almost seven hundred bucks for a starter sounds insane to me, but i probably don't have the best perspective. a new starter is what, like $200 for oem, so that would be like 4 hours of labor quoted? Not everything car is V8 rwd with enough room in the engine bay for Painterofcrap to climb in, squat down and close the hood (and change the starter while he's in there) and do an oil change. Also, I don't know about a Mazda 6 (was it?) that the OP has, but the starter that is used on a couple of machines that my company has are like 700+  dollar Hitachi units. Not saying thats how much these ones are, but they can be expensive as hell and/or time consuming to replace on lots of FWD stuff.
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Dec 23, 2022 02:02
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nwin posted:Even the 60k/5 year power train would cover something like that, right? If it doesn't, I'd be raising hell with the dealer and Toyota corporate - that thing wasn't even due for its first oil change if you go by mileage alone (should be done at least once a year otherwise). And if it was really a "courtesy car", it would have been sold as a new car instead of used - dealers normally don't title their courtesy vehicles, they just slap dealer tags on them (then sell them as new, and use the loaner/courtesy line to explain the mileage). Maybe the laws are different where you're at?
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Dec 23, 2022 02:27
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STR posted:If it doesn't, I'd be raising hell with the dealer and Toyota corporate - that thing wasn't even due for its first oil change if you go by mileage alone (should be done at least once a year otherwise). And if it was really a "courtesy car", it would have been sold as a new car instead of used - dealers normally don't title their courtesy vehicles, they just slap dealer tags on them (then sell them as new, and use the loaner/courtesy line to explain the mileage). Maybe the laws are different where you're at? Shes in Arizona and I might be confusing it with a corporate lease.
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Dec 23, 2022 03:28
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So my Prius does this thing some times where the whole thing seems completely deadthe keyfob won't unlock it and it seems to need a jumpand then by the time I figure a way in and arrange for a jump, it just magically starts again when I try it one last time. The clock and radio are reset, so clearly the battery was dead or disconnected or something temporarily. The only thing I can figure is that the 12v cover is off and one of the terminal cables is slightly loose, and maybe I jostled it back just right when I got in the boot for my cables. Is there anything else that can cause something like this, though?
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Dec 23, 2022 05:58
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Corrosion on the battery posts, maybe, but yeah regardless that does sound like a mechanical battery problem and that's where I'd start.
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Dec 23, 2022 08:12
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It could also just be a weak/dying 12V battery. Priuses don't use the 12V battery for starting the engine so the battery can get really close to death in a Prius, long before you'd have already replaced it in a non-hybrid because it just goes "clunk" when you try to start. But yes, absolutely confirm the condition and connections of both battery cables, ideally at both ends of the cable as well, and look for any signs of physical damage or corrosion along their length. vv sup?
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Dec 23, 2022 08:24
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I'd suspect corrosion, loose terminals, or even just simply a shot 12v battery. One not commonly known thing about Priuses is that they don't use the 12v battery to start the engine, just to run all the 12v equipment, and it's charged via a HVDC to 12v converter module, so a Prius can limp along with junk 12v battery connections or a junk battery for way longer than you might expect. The remote door unlock solenoid, seat adjustment motors, and headlamps could easily be the largest loads it sees on a regular basis. They actually use one of the hybrid motor-generators to start the engine off of the high voltage pack. But I believe the ignition and ECU run off the 12v battery. I'm not sure at what point the HVDC to 12v converter fires up but it may well be before you try to run the engine, and after you get the door open. Start with the terminal checking, if that doesn't fix it proceed on to load testing the 12v battery. Most parts stores will do that free. Edit: it looks like the Prius may or may not also charge via a standard alternator but I'm not sure I trust the manufacturer app data, there's only one company on rockauto that claims to make one, normally there are dozens. But I've literally disassembled the HVDC to 12V converter from one with my own two hands so I know that to be true. kastein fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Dec 23, 2022 |
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Dec 23, 2022 08:24
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Here's a dumb question - which spray paint should one use to patch a white sprinter van that had a hit-and-run gouge on it to stop rusting? 2x10" area stripped to bare metal but no puncture, surface rust forming. Is several shades of white already with several hundred thousand miles. Saw my brother in laws van today and suggested that he wire wheel it flat then hit it with as many coats as the can has of paint. It's a work van and I just want to help him stop the rust. It's socal so it's not like salt or anything is an issue. Christmas is coming.
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Dec 24, 2022 05:53
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if you don't care about color match, i like the rustoleum appliance enamel. conveniently for you, it only comes in black, white, and beige. picture of a refrigerator on the can. i like it because it seems to go on smooth, it's pretty hardy, and it doesn't require primer underneath to stick to most metal surfaces. ive never used it on bodywork, but i painted some of my suspension with the black version of it. i would def defer to any posters who have more experience with this sort of thing tho.
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Dec 24, 2022 06:02
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If it were mine? Wire wheel, rust converter primer, whatever spray paint is somewhat close to white (preferably an enamel). Basically I would only take it 1 step above what Raluek said, and only if I planned to keep it a long time. If he only plans to keep it for a year or so, just bomb it with the cheapest white paint you can find (enamel will hold up the best for this I think). Mask off any plastic or glass within "covid sneezing distance", wear some kind of mouth/nose mask, stand downwind with nothing valuable behind you. It sounds like both of you just want to cover up the rust (and Sprinter-style vans aren't exactly a hot commodity - but holy poo poo they drive SO much nicer than the typical US Ford Econoline/Chevy cargo van), so either of these use cases should work fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 06:46
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Thanks. I suggested he get something that said "rust converter" on the can earlier. It's a "into the ground" vehicle so long term is the name of the game here. His other hauler is a very old very very beat minivan with a trailer towed on the back. Are wire wheels... Standard? I kind of want to just bang this out over the weekend if feasible. Is there a specific wireyness I should grab? I have an appropriate half mask respirator to not smell anything from spray paint. That part is easy.
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Dec 24, 2022 07:15
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I've used the rust oleum white appliance paint enamel on wheels for years and they hold up spectacularly. It would have no trouble on bodywork especially if you don't care to make it perfectly pretty as the colors won't match. As for wire wheels any would work, you are blasting the surface free of everything (like rust) and giving whatever paint you're using a surface to adhere to. Paint doesn't stick to smooth metal as well as it does to rough metal, and 'rough' can be smooth to the touch as long as it looks dull to your eyes.
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Dec 24, 2022 07:28
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2002 Civic, just got the alternator and battery replaced and battery reads 12.6 when the car is off. Car is refusing to turn over when it's cold out, car starts no problem when it's 40°F and above, but below that it takes a few turns of the key befoe it starts and below 15°F it just refuses to turn over. Any ideas? Once it starts turning over the car starts fine, runs fine. Could this be a bad ground/connection to the starter? I think the fuel filter housing may be cracked, could it be related to that? Edit: Car eventually started when I was furiously mashing the gas and clutch as I turned the key, I don't think it's the battery since it refused to turn over even with a jump pack installed, and when it did eventually start the jump pack was disconnected. DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 14:05
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I can't read. Maybe your battery is bad even though it's new. Failure to crank when cold is a classic sign of a marginal battery since they perform worse while the engine also gets harder to crank. A good resting voltage indicates your alternator is working but says nothing about the battery's ability to deliver enough current. Invalido fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 15:26
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DildenAnders posted:2002 Civic, just got the alternator and battery replaced and battery reads 12.6 when the car is off. Car is refusing to turn over when it's cold out, car starts no problem when it's 40F and above, but below that it takes a few turns of the key befoe it starts and below 15F it just refuses to turn over. Any ideas? Once it starts turning over the car starts fine, runs fine. Could this be a bad ground/connection to the starter? I think the fuel filter housing may be cracked, could it be related to that? Is your oil 20,000 mile old sludge thats preventing the rotating assembly from turning when its cold? Does it run ok otherwise once its started? I can see timing or some other poo poo being wrong enough to cause this issue when its cold and run lovely when its warm.
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Dec 24, 2022 16:13
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Invalido posted:I can't read. ^^^^ To add to that, even "new" batteries can poo poo themselves pretty quickly. THey're usually pretty reliable, but every now and then one just turns up thats defective. One of the machines at my work It just happens sometimes. If you can take the battery to a part store and get them to load test it.
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Dec 24, 2022 16:15
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H110Hawk posted:Thanks. I suggested he get something that said "rust converter" on the can earlier. It's a "into the ground" vehicle so long term is the name of the game here. His other hauler is a very old very very beat minivan with a trailer towed on the back. Yeah, rust converter is right. Wire wheels are all the same, more or less. My experience is that nicer brand name ones shoot off the little wire bits less often but that wont really be an issue for the limited work youre doing. The other two pieces of advice I have are: 1. Get one of the things that lets you hold a spray can like a spray gun. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/paint-and-supplies/painting-tools-and-supplies/paint-spray-guns/1390657 2. Get some water thats like ~110 degrees F and dunk the can in it for five minutes before spraying. Heating up (but holy poo poo not too hot) the can of paint makes it come out much smoother.
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Dec 24, 2022 17:11
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builds character posted:Yeah, rust converter is right. Thank you. How important is this if it's 80F outside?  I'm gonna wing it without a paint gun. The van has visible rolled on paint from the logo the van had before he bought it.
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Dec 24, 2022 17:21
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Buddy with the civic: maybe it's a failing starter solenoid.
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Dec 24, 2022 17:59
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Where are people going for HIR bulbs these days? I bought several sets from Candle Power Inc dot com, but the guy who took over from the people who started the business died like a few months later and the site and store has since been shut down.
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Dec 24, 2022 20:49
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DildenAnders posted:2002 Civic, just got the alternator and battery replaced and battery reads 12.6 when the car is off. Car is refusing to turn over when it's cold out, car starts no problem when it's 40°F and above, but below that it takes a few turns of the key befoe it starts and below 15°F it just refuses to turn over. Any ideas? Once it starts turning over the car starts fine, runs fine. Could this be a bad ground/connection to the starter? I think the fuel filter housing may be cracked, could it be related to that? Think your starter is well on its way to making GBS threads the bed
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Dec 24, 2022 21:57
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wesleywillis posted:Where are people going for HIR bulbs these days? Phillips 9011/9012 (HIR1/HIR2). HIR isn't nearly as much of a thing anymore (though Phillips does market theirs as HIR1/HIR2), they've refined the mix of gasses in the bulbs enough to mostly make up for ditching the coating and shape. Phillips still charges a decent premium for them though. Toshiba was the original HIR bulb manufacturer, but they stopped making those bulbs around 2009. You sometimes see NOS bulbs pop up on eBay. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 22:59
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So basically the first one, then the second? Or should I just use rustoleum primer then the paint? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-Flat-Black-Spray-Primer-Actual-Net-Contents-10-25-oz/3728555 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-Flat-White-Spray-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-12-oz/3729873 And this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-3-in-Coarse-Wire-Cup-Brush-Angle-Grinder/50193617 ?
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Dec 24, 2022 23:19
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PainterofCrap posted:Think your starter is well on its way to making GBS threads the bed Any advice on how to diagnose it further? DildenAnders fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Dec 24, 2022 |
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Dec 24, 2022 23:33
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DildenAnders posted:Any advice on how to diagnose it further? When it acts up being out a BFH and a rod and give the starter a smack. Alternatively, starters for 02 civics should be cheap as chips so might be worth just firing the parts canon at it since it's the likely culprit anyway.
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Dec 24, 2022 23:41
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Bajaha posted:When it acts up being out a BFH and a rod and give the starter a smack. It's less money as a concern and more an issue of standing outside freezing my dick, balls and rear end in a top hat into a neo-cloaca. That being said should I just get an OEM one or is aftermarket fine? Lastly is bump starting my car bad for it? I was able to bump start at work by letting it roll down an incline. Thanks for the advice so far btw, don't mean to sound snarky.
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Dec 25, 2022 01:24
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DildenAnders posted:It's less money as a concern and more an issue of standing outside freezing my dick, balls and rear end in a top hat into a neo-cloaca. That being said should I just get an OEM one or is aftermarket fine? It's fine, you won't hurt anything bump starting. I would guess it takes 25 min to change the starter on that car.
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Dec 25, 2022 01:50
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On the scratch painting I'd wire wheel and paint with whatever, honestly in socal you could use house paint and it would keep the rust off. Appliance paint will be fine. If you are going to bang on a starter use the butt of the handle NOT the angry end of the hammer. You're trying to jar the brushes into contacting the commutator one last time, if you use the metal end of the hammer you are going to break the stator magnets loose from the housing or even crack them and they'll stick to the armature instead of fixing it temporarily. This will do nothing for your mood, car starting, or core charge and is to be avoided. I normally just boop it with the end of the handle like I'm playing shitbox billiards. Might start 0 times, might start for another 6 months, who knows, once it gets to the point where that will make it work again, you should have a new one ordered before you even shut the car back off if possible because there is no guarantee it is going to ever work again.
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Dec 25, 2022 05:29
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DildenAnders posted:Any advice on how to diagnose it further? As answered: While holding the key over in the crank position, have someone tap it with something (I used to use an old pool cue) & if it's bad it should get it cranking. I mean, your battery voltage is good, and you had a jump pack on it & it still wouldn't crank. Unless there is substantial corrosion on the starter end of the cable, or the lug is not tightened down, there really isn't much else.
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Dec 25, 2022 06:13
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My old Altima was doing exactly this. It would do it on warm days too, if the starter happened to stop on the dead spot, but it was a lot worse on cold days. Rapidly flicking the key to start a few times usually got it to turn over (though I did make smoke a couple of times, I know when the starter was on a dead spot it was essentially a dead short). I doubt you'll find a "new OEM" starter for it; that engine was last used by Honda for the 2005 model year. Honda generally drops parts support 10-15 years after they end production, unless those parts were used in other models. The engine in your car was the very last of the old school Honda engines (reverse rotation compared to most other car engines, which is why all of your accessories and belts are on the left hand side when every other FWD car has them on the right hand side; Honda started as a motorcycle company).
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Dec 25, 2022 08:59
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Is there any particular reason TPMS data isnt in OBD? It doesnt even trigger a code when a sensor dies which would be handy to have more details on.
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Dec 25, 2022 15:38
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