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brap posted:Anyone have experience with kits which come with speakers and receivers? I'm looking at https://onkyousa.com/home-audio/home-theater/ht-s3910 as a possibility, probably placing the subwoofer behind the couch. The size of drivers, cabinet and weight of construction of speakers has direct impact on sound quality. Tiny plastic [seriously, the satellites weigh a pound each] speakers with 3" drivers will sound bad, or at least much worse than you're used to. There are decent on-wall speakers, or bookshelf speakers that wall mount easily. 2 big speakers will always sound better than five of those throwaway deals, plus. There's other options like a passive soundbar which is basically one big speaker with 3 inputs that does LCR. Some places to get started https://www.crutchfield.com/g_230150/On-wall-Speakers.html?tp=191&pg=2 https://www.htd.com/Speakers/Cabinet-Speakers/Versa https://www.polkaudio.com/en-us/product/bookshelf-speakers/signature-elite-es15
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Dec 2, 2022 17:04
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Can anyone recommend a good sound bar - anything in particular that will provide good audio for dialogue across streaming platforms would be ideal. I don't need anything super fancy just a big upgrade from my 10-year old TV speakers. I was estimating ~$150 range but don't have a good sense of how expensive they are and would happily pay lower for a solid system that's an upgrade or a bit more if it's worth it.
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Dec 9, 2022 01:09
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Tom Tucker posted:Can anyone recommend a good sound bar - anything in particular that will provide good audio for dialogue across streaming platforms would be ideal. I don't need anything super fancy just a big upgrade from my 10-year old TV speakers. I was estimating ~$150 range but don't have a good sense of how expensive they are and would happily pay lower for a solid system that's an upgrade or a bit more if it's worth it. If you have room for them a pair of powered stereo speakers will give you much better sound. There's a bunch of sub-$200 speakers from brands like Edifier that come with a remote control.
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Dec 9, 2022 15:23
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Yeah I would never recommend a new soundbar unless you absolutely can't make discrete speakers work. If you really don't have space for discrete speakers, this is a good list of stuff in your price range: https://www.rtings.com/soundbar/reviews/best/by-price/under-200 but you can also likely find something of similar quality on craigslist/FB marketplace for <$100. Full disclosure I use a ~$250 MSRP Samsung 2.1 soundbar on my WFH computer desk because I found it for $40 on craigslist 8 years ago and it works well enough in that space when I don't want to use headphones. aparmenideanmonad fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Dec 9, 2022 |
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Dec 9, 2022 15:44
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I probably should've consulted this thread before buying my tv and sound stuff. The sound stuff I got was: AVR: Denon S660H Left/Right speakers: Kef Q150B Center: Kef Q250CB Sub: KEF - Kube 8" Should I be switching out the sub for something else? It seems like the most common recommended one is an SVS SB-1000. Sorry if I come across like an idiot, I'm all new at this and was just excited to get a tv and sound system recently.
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Dec 11, 2022 13:38
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I haven't read anything bad about that sub but it's just overpriced for what you get - $600 for an 8" driver with a 300w amp and a 34hz floor. It may be great for your space so, depending on the return policy, you can listen and just keep it if you like it. Not sure what you paid, but these are all more capable and better reviewed for a similar MSRP. https://rslspeakers.com/products/speedwoofer-10s-mkii/ $450, 10" 400w 22Hz https://www.svsound.com/products/sb-1000-pro-subwoofer $600, 12" 325w 20Hz, app setup for variable tuning https://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk5.html $650, 12" 350w 16Hz, port setup for variable tuning https://www.svsound.com/products/pb-1000-pro-subwoofer $800, 12" 325w 17Hz, app and port setup for variable tuning The RSL and Hsu options are the best bang for your buck at MSRP, but SVS pro subs do have a great app for setup and are regularly discounted in their outlet store. The older, app-less non-pro SB and PB 1000 or 2000 models are worth considering as well if you can find a deal on them.
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Dec 11, 2022 15:47
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aparmenideanmonad posted:I haven't read anything bad about that sub but it's just overpriced for what you get - $600 for an 8" driver with a 300w amp and a 34hz floor. It may be great for your space so, depending on the return policy, you can listen and just keep it if you like it. Not sure what you paid, but these are all more capable and better reviewed for a similar MSRP. Thank you for the reply. I was looking at the SVS SB 1000 since it's come up often during googling around. I bought everything from Best Buy and the Kube was 600 and it looks like BB is selling the SVS SB 1000 for the same price, should I even bother trying out the kube or just switching out for something else? I've seen a few reddit comments saying that Kef are bad at making subs. Also, is getting a 3.1 audio set up okay? Is my receiver okay? How would I set up the receiver with my speakers? Set it on 5.1?
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Dec 11, 2022 16:02
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I'd definitely take the SVS over the KEF if they're the same price and it's no hassle from Best Buy. That receiver is a good match for your current setup and you can expand it out with rear channels or an additional sub later if you choose. If you ever want to get a bigger 7+ channel setup, you can just buy a new receiver and use this in another room or sell it - no reason to pay a bunch more for another receiver when you're just getting started unless you have serious plans to expand sooner than later. 3.1 is great and will work with your receiver in 5.1 mode. There's lots of ways to do your setup but one that is a good starting place is to connect and place your speakers and sub, run Audyssey on your receiver, then follow more detailed instructions here on your sub: https://www.svsound.com/blogs/subwoofer-setup-and-tuning/subwoofer-calibration-tuning-getting-the-bass-just-right SVS has great customer support and you can reach out to them if you want help from a real person.
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Dec 11, 2022 16:47
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aparmenideanmonad posted:I'd definitely take the SVS over the KEF if they're the same price and it's no hassle from Best Buy. I'll go to BB when I have a chance then. Thank you. If I have the receiver in 5.1 mode with a 3.1 set up, does the rear/surround sound just get sent to nothing or to the front left and right speakers? I don't have any plans to go any larger since I live in an apartment. Even doing 5.1 seems impossible but I'm not knowledgeable about this sort of thing. I bought a couple of speaker stands which I think should be compatible with the KEF speakers I got. Are they okay? Learning about all of this home audio stuff has been a journey. ---------------- I have more questions but I'm not sure if this thread is the best place for it. I've had a receiver hooked up to my PC for years but I never actually bothered to learn about proper audio stuff. My PC's avr is: Yamaha RX V375 left/right speakers: Bose 301 Center: Pioneer SP-C22 Sub: Polk Audio PSW10 (This was some sub that was under a hundred bucks that I bought years ago) Having recently bought a tv for the first time and actually looking into sound stuff, I realize my pc set up is a huge mess. I have my L/C/R speakers all on the floor underneath the desk but I don't know how to position them any better. I don't even know if the Bose 301s are any good.
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Dec 11, 2022 17:05
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Ryuga Death posted:If I have the receiver in 5.1 mode with a 3.1 set up, does the rear/surround sound just get sent to nothing or to the front left and right speakers? I don't have any plans to go any larger since I live in an apartment. Even doing 5.1 seems impossible but I'm not knowledgeable about this sort of thing.
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Dec 11, 2022 17:31
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qirex posted:If you have room for them a pair of powered stereo speakers will give you much better sound. There's a bunch of sub-$200 speakers from brands like Edifier that come with a remote control. I just tried to fiddle with it and I can't fit them. The TV is set up in a corner on a built-in cabinet facing out at an angle and the TV I brought in basically touches both walls at each side. I will check out Craigslist, thanks!
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Dec 16, 2022 15:42
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I need speaker wire for my new ELAC UC52 center speaker. I haven’t bought speaker wire in like 25 years. Is there anything to do here other than buy the most popular thing sold by Amazon or Walmart? I presume it’s like HDMI cables where you can spend $500 on a 6 ft wire when you should’ve spent $20.
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Dec 17, 2022 23:19
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pmchem posted:I need speaker wire for my new ELAC UC52 center speaker. I haven’t bought speaker wire in like 25 years. Is there anything to do here other than buy the most popular thing sold by Amazon or Walmart? I presume it’s like HDMI cables where you can spend $500 on a 6 ft wire when you should’ve spent $20.
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Dec 17, 2022 23:21
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:It's a 6 ohm speaker so I would get 14 gauge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WHT8LC/ alright, monoprice. and I guess for the terminals, these? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/
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Dec 17, 2022 23:39
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pmchem posted:alright, monoprice. and I guess for the terminals, these? yeah, or bare wire honestly. Banana plugs are mostly for looks. They keep the terminal contact ends neat and clean, which can prevent a wayward wire from bending into the wrong crevasse or making contact with the wrong thing and shorting something out, and they make plugging stuff in and swapping speakers/etc easier if you’re doing demos or you work in an audio shop or whatever, but mainly they’re the hifi equivalent of rocking a spiffy watch and cufflinks with your suit
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Dec 18, 2022 00:38
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I wouldn't say that, they serve several real purposes. Mainly they ensure that you only have to fumble around with bare wire once. FWIW I prefer the mediabridge banana plugs but it probably doesn't make a real difference.
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Dec 18, 2022 07:09
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Even if you’re only ever going to hook everything up literally once and you have completely unfettered access to the back of your receiver it still gets annoying dealing with all the bare wires and screws in close proximity to each other.
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Dec 18, 2022 16:27
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I always go with these: Monoprice 2 Pair Affinity Series 24k Gold Speaker Banana Plug,Black/Red https://a.co/d/hAZiPI5 Slightly more expensive, but I like having the entire jacket colored instead of just a strip. It’s a small thing, but when you’re reaching behind equipment in a dark cabinet, knowing for sure you have the right wire makes things easier.
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Dec 20, 2022 09:25
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I think the kind OP linked are the ones where the wire pokes out the middle and you bend it back on itself and screw the top on which I find annoying as gently caress because if some of the wire strands are 1/8” too long it won’t screw down. Whereas the other ones linked have set screws which are better imo
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Dec 20, 2022 16:35
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Is there a shortlist for second-gen (or third-gen?) HDMI 2.1 (4K120/HFR/HDR) receivers that don't suck? The Denon AVR-X1700H that was mentioned on a previous page was actually one I was looking at before. Just looking for a basic home-theater setup, don't need a zillion watts per channel, right now I have 2.1 with pair of the polk monitor 40 series IIs (although I do have some of the bigger series 50s too, just kinda too big for my living room) and a powered subwoofer (actually that PSW10 previously mentioned) so I'd be fine with the usual ganged outputs for now at least, don't need 100W per channel independent on 5 channels or whatever. I also actually have a power amp (Adcom GFA-545) which could do subwoofer if I went down the unpowered route. An IR remote port (for putting the amp downstairs) would be important, a serial port would be nice (for home automation), network support would be nice. The more inputs the better I suppose but a couple high-capability HDMI 2.1s is fine especially if there's some lower-capability ports for misc older consoles/etc. Don't really know much about the whole dolby feature set insanity there, probably not something I'd pay tons extra for but maybe nice to have? Eventually I want to get the TV mounted, get the receiver into the basement on a top shelf and get the cables run through the wall/floor, and run the system through the receiver with a remote. iirc there's some wifi-remote type stuff etc but I'm really fine with IR blaster or whatever - I think vintage serial is a hedge against loss of support in phone or PC apps as well. Multi zone... not sure how I feel about that. I don't mind a couple zones as a neat capability thing (2-zone or 3-zone?) but my only use-cases would involve fairly long runs to the speakers. Basically, the idea is whole-house speakers, play the same thing in multiple rooms, or play music or a movie in a specific room, etc. I asked previously and wild-rear end-guessed 50 feet as being my longest run (basically all the way along the house from the living room, then up to some ceiling or wallmount speakers) which is long but doable with good speaker wire (especially with smaller speakers/etc probably). In that case the other rooms would go in their own zones. I am pretty limited in my ability to move the receiver given HDMI 2.1's 2-meter limit... you can go a little farther (there are 3m cables that keep full spec f.ex) but ideally I'd like to avoid the need for active optical cable or similar on my TV (LG C1), not sure how well they'd work with edge-case features like HFR and HDR or others, given how fucky the whole HDMI 2.1 featureset thing is maybe it's better to just not tempt fate. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Dec 22, 2022 |
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Dec 22, 2022 03:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:Is there a shortlist for second-gen (or third-gen?) HDMI 2.1 (4K120/HFR/HDR) receivers that don't suck? The Denon AVR-X1700H that was mentioned on a previous page was actually one I was looking at before. A bunch of goons have and have recommended the Denon S760H. It has 6x hdmi inputs, three of which are hdmi 2.1 that can handle 8k60/4k120. I think it's the least expensive hdmi 2.1 receiver.
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Dec 22, 2022 05:27
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Ok Comboomer posted:yeah, or bare wire honestly. Banana plugs are mostly for looks. They keep the terminal contact ends neat and clean, which can prevent a wayward wire from bending into the wrong crevasse or making contact with the wrong thing and shorting something out, and they make plugging stuff in and swapping speakers/etc easier if you’re doing demos or you work in an audio shop or whatever, but mainly they’re the hifi equivalent of rocking a spiffy watch and cufflinks with your suit hot take: the ring terminal or spade terminal is the comfortable middle ground. Still only wire the connection once, but you have a big surface area (good contact) with good mechanical properties (it's bolted onto the terminal lug). by all means make really fancy gold terminals and poo poo, and solder for good contact (it's not in a flexing application, should be fine) after crimping etc, you can do it up really nice and it'll probably have some conductivity improvements. but like, instead of the dinky copper bridge bars you can get something fancy like this, pretty spiffy too imo, and this carries WAY more current than a 4mm banana connector https://smile.amazon.com/WJSTN-001-Speaker-Cable%EF%BC%8CU-Shaped-Terminal-inches%EF%BC%89/dp/B08QDVS8F6 https://smile.amazon.com/CESS-028-Premium-Speaker-Jumpers-Inches/dp/B07TJFJM6L/ I actually have my TV system torn apart this very moment, I have some much nicer monoprice access 12g speaker cable (with a white sleeve!) and I should build myself some properly-sized ring-terminal speaker cables to fit my current setup. My cable lengths are severely hosed up and the cable is generic brown radio shack from forever ago. Both my speakers and my little amp (T-class SMSL SA-50 or SA-98E, I have one of each, same diff) can use ring terminals, it'd be cool to do it up right since I have the materials on hand and it's not going to be moved. I guess that does require me to figure out how to drive my PSW10 from a line signal rather than off the speaker passthrough (lol). Need to figure out what I'm going to output it from (nothing I can do about the low-pass filter). Can I just use a splitter from the television's line-out and run one to the amp and one to the subwoofer? it'd obviously be nice to have a receiver there to handle it. Maybe I can get there with something cheap and optical or earc or something and just not have the receiver handle the video. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Dec 22, 2022 |
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Dec 22, 2022 06:10
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CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:A bunch of goons have and have recommended the Denon S760H. It has 6x hdmi inputs, three of which are hdmi 2.1 that can handle 8k60/4k120. I think it's the least expensive hdmi 2.1 receiver. when I looked, the X1700H seemed like a slightly higher-capability model at a similar price, probably a later generation. it's got some controllability stuff (IR remote connector at minimum) that I don't think I'd want to give up as potential options, and the X1700H has them. but yeah that's kinda my cheap-ish target. it's a shame the X4700H seems to be the older generation, actually worse than the X1700H in a lot of ways. X4800H is fine but way too expensive. looking through crutchfield right now, the onkyo TX-NR7100 (I did see the admonishment in OP) and the Pioneer VSX-LX305 look like what I'd want in a power-user AV receiver in terms of multiple zones and HDMI outputs etc. any feelings about either of those? (actually, they look almost identical...) Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Dec 22, 2022 |
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Dec 22, 2022 08:42
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Hippie Hedgehog posted:Probably you're on the right track with replacing the L+R instead. When you get them, try disconnecting the center and listen to a bit of content with just 4.1 for a while, see if the dialog is clearer. (It could be, by virtue of coming from the new, higher-quality L+R speakers!) I changed the front speakers out for the ones I was using as rear surrounds which turn out to be half-decent bookshelf speakers, which has helped a lot, and used the Yamaha rear surrounds that I got with the centre channel. The no-name front L+R that I was using were really blowing out any kind of detail and definition and imaging, it's much better now. You're right that the Yamaha speakers sound different; they definitely don't go as low as the front L+R and you can kind of hear a difference, especially with the centre channel, but it isn't that bad. I do run through the setup/calibration process with the mic whenever I change out speakers or move anything around so everything is more or less volume matched if nothing else. There's no way I'm getting a kit of matched speakers unless I see a ridiculously amazing deal anyway. I did also finally get a subwoofer as a christmas present to myself. I'm still in the middle of tuning it but I'm very impressed by the subtle 'lift' it brings everything. I want to say it's slightly improved the clarity by taking the 'load' off the other speakers but that's probably just psychosomatic.
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Dec 22, 2022 12:11
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Paul MaudDib posted:looking through crutchfield right now, the onkyo TX-NR7100 (I did see the admonishment in OP) and the Pioneer VSX-LX305 look like what I'd want in a power-user AV receiver in terms of multiple zones and HDMI outputs etc. any feelings about either of those? (actually, they look almost identical...) They are basically identical, except that the Pioneer costs more because it's the premium brand. Onkyo owns Pioneer. I'd probably just grab the Onkyo unless you really prefer the front panel design of the Pioneer. I was browsing those models myself since they were the least expensive options that can do 5.1.4 and come with Dirac Live room correction. The OP hasn't been updated since 2015 and the last AVRs with hdmi problems I heard about were from Denon in like 2020.
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Dec 22, 2022 14:15
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There's really only three relevant companies that receivers under three thousand dollars now: Yamaha, Sound United [Denon and Marantz], and Onkyo [plus Pioneer and Integra]. The models they have out now are all ok, if you're looking at Denons I would wait on an X1800 which is definitely coming soon, the 700 models are 2 years old. The Onkyo 7100 has Dirac Live room correction which much more powerful than Denon and Yamaha's systems if you're willing to spend the time with it. There's also the similar Integra model [DRX 3.4] that costs a bit more but has pre outs and a better warranty. You can look for open box or refurbs at Safe & Sound HQ. The wrinkle in this is 2 weeks from now is CES and there's a good chance at least Yamaha and Onkyo will announce new stuff.
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Dec 22, 2022 16:44
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I think my PSW505 finally gave up the ghost after 6 years of daily use. Worked fine this morning, then I turned everything in my system off to run some HDMI cables differently, and sub never came back. Didn't unplug or change anything about the sub except for switching it off then on again. Unit still makes sound, but now it sounds like somebody is slapping a piece of butcher paper. Cone moves freely with manual manipulation, doesn't sound like the coil is crunchy. I took off the plate amp and did a visual inspection, nothing looks or smells like I release any magic smoke, no bulging capacitors that I can see. Is this failure mode sounding typical for HT subs? I'm going to run some more tests, any suggestions on what to measure or look for? And lastly, if it is the amp itself that died, would it be worth it to replace? I've found some units on Pasts Express for a reasonable-ish ~$250, which is doable vs a new unit. I also have a PSW10, but that thing has nowhere near the punch that the 505 did, I know I'd be unhappy with anything less. 300W BASH which is basically identical to the one which just died. The PSW505 has a BASH unit the revision before the one I have with identical features https://www.parts-express.com/Bash-300S-300W-Digital-Subwoofer-Amplifier-300-750?quantity=1 Similar Dayton unit https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-250-Watt-Subwoofer-Amplifier-300-803?quantity=1 Hard to swallow $500 for a new one. I know it was 6 years ago, but I paid like 250 https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-P...b2eaf37afa&th=1 Rest of the home theater is: Onkyo TX-NR828 JBL E50 Fronts, bi-amp because I'm a dweeb JBL EC35 center JBL E20 in the rear Current setup isn't mind-blowing, but is fore sure better than many. Aggressively middle of the road. intheflesh fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Dec 23, 2022 |
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Dec 23, 2022 00:41
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yeah you know what, I might just get the S760H for now and worry about the "later" when "later" happens. I dismissed it immediately because there's no IR remote port and I plan on burying the receiver where it will need an auxiliary receiver, but I guess I can lean on the network control for now, or walk downstairs, on the rare occasions I'd be switching it.
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Dec 23, 2022 22:58
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I'm looking to finally get around to getting my first home audio system and was wondering what's good in a 2.0 or 2.1 system in 2022. I've not got the most complicated requirements:
I honestly don't have the first idea about what's good in home audio, I could go to a local store but they're often quite price gougey and I don't want to buy a lemon.
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Dec 25, 2022 15:35
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mfcrocker posted:I'm looking to finally get around to getting my first home audio system and was wondering what's good in a 2.0 or 2.1 system in 2022. I've not got the most complicated requirements: Your first question is whether you want to stick with a 2-channel amplifier/receiver or whether you’re better off getting a multichannel AV receiver and simply using the L/R channels. The latter might seem wasteful, but you benefit from getting features like built-in internet/WiFi and Bluetooth, streaming, and HDMI ports/pass thru/ARC/CEC. A lot more AV receivers are sold these days vs stereo receivers, so their boards tend to be more feature-replete for the money with antennas and decoders and whatnot. And if you ever move or decide to expand your setup to 3.1/5.1/beyond you’ve got the channels available. That being said, HDMI specs evolve quickly so I wouldn’t buy a receiver with the intent to expand in a decade if you plan to run HDMI thru it—at that point you’ll probably want a brand new receiver. And with that being said, if you’re only going to run audio to it from your TV, either via HDMI or TOSlink, then your receiver might still be totally serviceable a decade from now. At the higher price points you get things like legacy inputs, preamp outs to run your own external amplification on two or more (sometimes all) channels, etc. The benefit to a stereo receiver/amplifier is that they tend to be much better looking, the (two, as opposed to five or seven or nine or whatever) amps inside tend to be much beefier and higher quality (whether you’ll notice in your particular setup is a matter for gods and goons to argue), and they overall tend to be packaged for more longevity. In 2022 stereo amps are more or less enthusiast devices, and they’re sold and marketed as such. You won’t get HDMI (unless you’re looking at something really unique), you will get TOSlink, you might get onboard wireless and/or WiFi, depending on the model. If you want Spotify streaming, etc, you’ll probably have to buy a box like a Wiim mini or a Bluesound unless your dealie comes with it (and/or run Airplay through your TV and your TV thru optical TOSlink to the receiver/amp), but you’ll get arguably better sound quality in the trade. Stereo amps are more likely to come with an onboard phono preamp and not require an external preamp for your turntable. A stereo amp will be arguably more built to last (arguably), with fewer, more robust components (ideally), and more versatile connections (in theory). You lose out on not having HDMI ports, but you benefit in the sense that your receiver will never have an array of obsolete HDMI ports that don’t support the framerate on your new TV/console/etc and push you to replace/force you to stick to optical or whatever. Same with wireless stuff—your loss is having to go outboard. Your gain is that outboard gear can be cleanly jettisoned and replaced when it obsolesces, as opposed to having a bunch of outdated buttons and features built into the receiver that you have to ignore and navigate around. What are your desires? What are your requirements? What are your short term and long term plans? Do you plan to move? Do you value a specific look? A specific performance level? $1-2k is a good range for a lot of different/diverse setups.
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Dec 25, 2022 18:29
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Ok Comboomer posted:Your first question is whether you want to stick with a 2-channel amplifier/receiver or whether you’re better off getting a multichannel AV receiver and simply using the L/R channels. Thanks for the reply. I think from my side I mainly want to listen to music (likely vinyl or Spotify) without headphones from time to time; I have a pair of Meze Classic 99s but they live on my desk and sometimes I wanna sit in my living room with nothing on my head. From my partner's side, she would like to beef up the relatively meh sound of our TV as well as music stuff. I really don't expect us to ever want to go beyond a 2-speaker setup; frankly, I can't be arsed to wire up and position that much stuff. We're not likely to move for some time either. From the research I've done so far today, I'm probably landing on a Fluance turntable - it seems to be a very highly-regarded option when it comes to "budget" turntables. A friend of mine has shown me the Marantz NR1200 as an option for a receiver and from what I can tell it'd do pretty much everything I'd need it to do. I'm interested in any opinions people might have about those, and also ideas on what else I might want to add to that setup (obviously I would need to pick some speakers, but that's something where I'm probably best off going and trying some out)
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Dec 25, 2022 19:23
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You could do a streamer which has HDMI eARC out. The issue is that's going to be a premium feature, the NAD C 700 has it and it's listed at £1300. It also has a Subwoofer out and can do Spotify Connect but it doesn't have a phono preamp. Since you're in the UK, I would have said get a Rega Planar 1 Plus since that has the phone preamp built it but I think an Audio Technica LP120 for £250 would be the better turntable for you. And for speakers maybe something from like Monitor Audio or Wharfdale. Monitor Audio Bronze 200 - £650 Wharfdale Denton 85 - £600 + stands Wharfdale Diamond 12.3 - £500 Q Acoustics 3050 - £550 Q Acoustics 3050i - £700
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Dec 25, 2022 19:45
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Fluance TTs are good, great value. There’s also UTurn, Rega (if you’re in the UK, Rega could be a good bet in terms of pricing and service/support availability), ProJect (I’d probably go with any of the other three brands first, but that’s largely aesthetic/value preference), Audio Technica if you want direct-drive, and you could always go more expensive  (1200 mk7) The Marantz is solid. I’d probably look for something with more than like 80wpc. I’m a Yamaha fanboy, and I like the visual design of the AS-501 or AS-701, in silver or black. They’re probably my favorite new in-production amps, with the best timeless look and classic Yamaha sound signature. Since you’re in the UK you should also check out IOTA https://www.iotaenterprises.co.uk/ (ie the guys that were trying to revive Nakamichi as a hifi brand) I love the design of their SA/PA stack. It looks  . You could start with an SA3 and then add a PA3 amp to double the output power. They make a Bluetooth dongle that plugs into the back of the SA3, but I’d also get the NP3 Network CD player for all your streaming and CD playing needs. Their stuff goes on heavy discount fairly regularly and they also have a robust refurb store.For speakers Animale posted:And for speakers maybe something from like Monitor Audio or Wharfdale. are all good suggestions. I’d add KEF to the list—a bunch of their Q Series speakers should still be discounted quite a bit. Also if you can splurge, something like Wharfedale Lintons, etc would be a heck of a statement piece. There’s a lot of really cool stereo floorstanders being made in the $1000-3000 range (especially vintage-style is having a moment right now). How big of speakers do you want? Are you planning on adding a subwoofer? If you want to watch movies, a sub is recommended regardless of speaker size (I’d probably recommend it anyway unless your speakers are proper big and you’re a stickler for 2 channels and only 2 channels).
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Dec 25, 2022 20:14
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I'm very open-minded when it comes to speaker options and I'm happy with either 2.0 or 2.1. I'd probably be looking at bookshelf speakers on stands or floorstanders.
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Dec 25, 2022 21:04
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mfcrocker posted:I'm very open-minded when it comes to speaker options and I'm happy with either 2.0 or 2.1. I'd probably be looking at bookshelf speakers on stands or floorstanders. cool any thoughts about the suggestions you’ve been presented so far? positive/negative/aesthetic/etc? Any in particular stand out to you? Would you rather spend more and get more quality/looks/etc or less and save money?
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Dec 25, 2022 21:43
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Ok Comboomer posted:cool All the speakers mentioned so far look pretty great though obviously I'd have to hear them to judge sound. I think most stuff mentioned here has been around the right price point except the NAD C 700 - am I actually going to need HDMI eARC?
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Dec 25, 2022 22:57
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So Atmos is usually kind of mehhhh. Half the time I wonder if I'm just wanting to hear stuff in the mix. But Netflix's Matilda Musical used my height speakers for a PA announcement voice. Really fun stuff, definite separation between the "ear-level" stuff and the voice. Wish more did stuff like that.
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Dec 26, 2022 03:42
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My dad is looking to get a pair of decent stereo bluetooth bookshelf speakers, but everything I can find has all the guts in one speaker and a wire running to the other. He doesn't want them to be wired to one another, like how some portable speakers can do stereo if multiple are paired to your phone. Does such a thing even exist? Budget is up to ~$400 for the pair, and no reliance on apps (the man is 75). The fallback is a pair of JBL 305s and a bluetooth adapter.
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Dec 27, 2022 16:27
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Fantastic Foreskin posted:My dad is looking to get a pair of decent stereo bluetooth bookshelf speakers, but everything I can find has all the guts in one speaker and a wire running to the other. He doesn't want them to be wired to one another, like how some portable speakers can do stereo if multiple are paired to your phone. Does such a thing even exist? Budget is up to ~$400 for the pair, and no reliance on apps (the man is 75). The fallback is a pair of JBL 305s and a bluetooth adapter. a pair of 305s will def do the job, but any reason you’re not just getting a receiver+pair of passive speakers? Like you said, the man is 75. The JBLs will have to be connected to each other (and to their Bluetooth source) somehow. You can get an entry level Yamaha stereo receiver for like $150-200 that will have Bluetooth onboard and then run any passive speakers—inexpensive, used, already at your dad’s house, etc and be off to the races. And/or they make external wireless pucks that will do the job. Or all contemporary Rokus will do AirPlay now, so you could run the Roku to a TV and the TV to the speakers, etc. If you have existing gear putting wireless on it is fairly easy and accessible these days. Alternatively-alternatively, many AV receivers these days have Bluetooth and often AirPlay (Denon) on board. I grabbed a Denon X-1400H from 2017 the other day at Goodwill for $12 and it does p much everything my dad’s bought-new-in-2017/2018 X-2400H does minus a bunch of the fancier input connections (component video, etc). The only thing that will do “proper” separate speakers in the way that you describe and has the level of polish where I’d feel comfortable giving it to an older person is something like Sonos. You could get two entry level pod speakers (like $150 each IIRC), or two of the various IKEA Sonos speakers ($99+ IIRC) and pair them together, but then your dad would be 100% dependent on Sonos’ mobile and desktop software to handle all controls and playback.
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Dec 27, 2022 18:16
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Hi, I have a Denon S660H connected with a left, center, and right speaker. I've been watching a few movies over the past few days and notice the dialogue can be a bit quiet compared to the music and action scenes. What setting should I be changing, if any, to make dialogue a bit easier to hear? I know my Denon has an option called Dialog Enhancer, but googling also leads to some results talking about Dynamic Compression and then there's some other option there called Dialog Control.
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Dec 27, 2022 18:22
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