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Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


There are a few motogp riders that are good at that.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Me :smug:

In seriousness yes, they aren't common but they're out there and it's always a pleasure to talk to them because you can actually engage with what they're saying instead of nodding along and mumbling yeah responsive yeah feels good man yeah

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
How do y'all dispose of old motorcycle helmets? I've got an RF1000 with two visors that's been sitting in my closet for god knows how long.

Do I just toss it in the trash?

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

I wrote "super expired" on mine with a big fat magic marker, so any trash-fishers knew what they were getting into.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I give them to car drivers

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Give them to children as space helmets.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Never get rid of them ever and amass a collection on a shelf

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Bring old helmets to the local fire station so they can use it for training purposes.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

epswing posted:

Bring old helmets to the local fire station so they can use it for training purposes.

That's not a bad idea. I have two neighbors who are fire fighters. I'll ask them if that's an option.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

epswing posted:

Bring old helmets to the local fire station so they can use it for training purposes.

Jousting matches at the firestation?

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
I destroyed mine by taking it out to the back alley and wailing on it with a sledgehammer

It took a while, which made sense in retrospect

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

put a melon in it and then blast it with a shotgun.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
Think I just drilled some holes in noticeable places and Sharpied DO NOT USE a few times.

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Today was my first chance to install a new motorcycle battery and I managed to hook it up backwards because I wasn't paying attention :science: After I figured it out and fixed it and replaced the main fuse, it fired up and seemed to run okay. What are the chances I damaged anything beyond my pride?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It's fine

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
When that battery shits the bed seven years down the road, you'll know what you did.

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

TotalLossBrain posted:

When that battery shits the bed seven years down the road, you'll know what you did.

That's gonna be the next owner's problem.

I was puzzled to hear the fuel pump running whenever the circuit was closed even with a popped fuse. What other goofy stuff can happen when you put things in backwards I wonder

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

FBS posted:

That's gonna be the next owner's problem.

I was puzzled to hear the fuel pump running whenever the circuit was closed even with a popped fuse. What other goofy stuff can happen when you put things in backwards I wonder

You can make smoke sometimes if you do it wrong enough.

prukinski
Dec 25, 2011

Sure why not
Has anyone slapped bar risers on an aircooled multistrada? The PO of my bike bought a corbin saddle on it, which aside from looking supremely dorky is quite comfortable, and easier to move around on at speed than the stock seat. The only issue is that the corbin is about 40/50mm taller than stock, which puts the stock bars and mirrors way too low for me.

I guess I could just buy some ebay specials, but I'd prefer to get something nice-looking (ie: expensive), and I 'spose I want to know if I'd have to buy new cables to accomodate a ~30mm rise.

(If I had to fork out for cables I'll just roll with the standard seat and sell the corbin).

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Cross posting from the tools thread:

Can anyone help me locate whatever this scraping tool is called for cleaning out corrosion and dirt in the channels that the brake caliper seals sit in? Preferably sold in the US.

I'm kicking myself 'cause I just bought a new set of brake caliper pistons from WeBike, and I didn't even know about this tool. Of course, searching their site I can't even find them for sale so :shrug:

https://japan.webike.net/moto_news/...ols-or-brushes/
Images from that article:







Edit: I found them on Amazon Japan, but I'm not sure how difficult or costly it is to order those to the US vs using something like an allen key
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/STRAIGHT-Caliper-Hojiro-19-3300-Motorcycle/dp/B07ZRBSLCV

MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jan 5, 2023

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
I did my calipers recently and cleaned the races using toothpicks and a set of picks, didn’t even know this specialty tool existed.

Are you planning on cleaning a lot of caliper bores?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

prukinski posted:

Has anyone slapped bar risers on an aircooled multistrada? The PO of my bike bought a corbin saddle on it, which aside from looking supremely dorky is quite comfortable, and easier to move around on at speed than the stock seat. The only issue is that the corbin is about 40/50mm taller than stock, which puts the stock bars and mirrors way too low for me.

I guess I could just buy some ebay specials, but I'd prefer to get something nice-looking (ie: expensive), and I 'spose I want to know if I'd have to buy new cables to accomodate a ~30mm rise.

(If I had to fork out for cables I'll just roll with the standard seat and sell the corbin).

Cables will probably be fine but you'll almost certainly have to get a longer brake line(s) as Ducati typically have almost no slack between the MC and the triple clamp junction.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

epswing posted:

I did my calipers recently and cleaned the races using toothpicks and a set of picks, didn’t even know this specialty tool existed.

Are you planning on cleaning a lot of caliper bores?

Not a lot, I'm just fed up with bad or sticking brakes and so if there is a "better" tool for the job, that's easily sourced I may be willing to try it. These calipers have been more of a headache than I had hoped.

I'm getting the itch for a new bike, but fortunately for me, all of my bad stock picks have lost money and I won't get a bonus from work for several months. Maybe the R9 will be out by then.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Seems much easier to use a Dremel with a brass wire wheel disc thingy if you want to be that spotless. Plus you can use it for other stuff.

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

MetaJew posted:

Cross posting from the tools thread:

Can anyone help me locate whatever this scraping tool is called for cleaning out corrosion and dirt in the channels that the brake caliper seals sit in? Preferably sold in the US.

I'm kicking myself 'cause I just bought a new set of brake caliper pistons from WeBike, and I didn't even know about this tool. Of course, searching their site I can't even find them for sale so :shrug:

https://japan.webike.net/moto_news/...ols-or-brushes/
Images from that article:







Edit: I found them on Amazon Japan, but I'm not sure how difficult or costly it is to order those to the US vs using something like an allen key
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/STRAIGHT-Caliper-Hojiro-19-3300-Motorcycle/dp/B07ZRBSLCV

If they are ok to be made in plastic and you know the critical dimensions, something like this could be so easily designed and 3D printed by anyone with the required know-how and tools.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Slavvy posted:

Seems much easier to use a Dremel with a brass wire wheel disc thingy if you want to be that spotless. Plus you can use it for other stuff.

I've been meaning to buy a Dremel but don't currently own one. That said, brass is harder than aluminum and seems like it would be more at risk of scoring or damaging the surface of the calipers.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
If you've been meaning to buy a dremel then you should definitely get one ASAP. Not necessarily that particular brand mind you, when my 29 year old dremel finally dies I'll replace it with a proxxon, they're nicer IMO (the dremel branded cutting discs/spindles are the only ones worth having though). Whatever. Get a rotary tool and then get some nylon bristle brushes for it if you're worried about aluminium scoring. Then find out the myriad of little jobs the thing is useful for.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Dremel has saved so many projects in the past for me. Things a grinder couldn't do, in tighter spaces. Cleaning, grinding, cutting off stuck fasteners. If I have a tool that's earned it's weight in gold it's my Dremel.

pun pundit
Nov 11, 2008

I feel the same way about the company bearing the same name.

MetaJew posted:

Cross posting from the tools thread:

Can anyone help me locate whatever this scraping tool is called for cleaning out corrosion and dirt in the channels that the brake caliper seals sit in? Preferably sold in the US.

I'm kicking myself 'cause I just bought a new set of brake caliper pistons from WeBike, and I didn't even know about this tool. Of course, searching their site I can't even find them for sale so :shrug:

https://japan.webike.net/moto_news/...ols-or-brushes/
Images from that article:







Edit: I found them on Amazon Japan, but I'm not sure how difficult or costly it is to order those to the US vs using something like an allen key
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/STRAIGHT-Caliper-Hojiro-19-3300-Motorcycle/dp/B07ZRBSLCV

Those look like extremely overengineered lockpicking tension tools. Just bend a windshield wiper insert for the same profile and no cost (use inserts from old wipers).

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




I did the brake cylinder cleaning with a plastic wire wheel in my Proxxon 'dremel'. Worked well enough.

Wear some protective glasses when working with them. Even plastic fragments can get right into your eye.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
I'm having trouble understanding how the wire wheel can work properly to clean the races (channels) in the bore where the seals sit. The wheel is rounded at the end, don't you need something with a sharp/pointy edge to get in the corners of the races?

Edit: Or I guess the suggestion was to use the dremel for everything but the races?

epswing fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jan 5, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

1. I meant to write nylon but my brain defaults to brass, that's what I get for hurrying to :justpost:

2. It's a disc of bristles, if it's parallel to the seal channel it's literally perfectly shaped for clearing them out

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

LimaBiker posted:

I did the brake cylinder cleaning with a plastic wire wheel in my Proxxon 'dremel'. Worked well enough.

Wear some protective glasses when working with them. Even plastic fragments can get right into your eye.


Invalido posted:

If you've been meaning to buy a dremel then you should definitely get one ASAP. Not necessarily that particular brand mind you, when my 29 year old dremel finally dies I'll replace it with a proxxon, they're nicer IMO (the dremel branded cutting discs/spindles are the only ones worth having though). Whatever. Get a rotary tool and then get some nylon bristle brushes for it if you're worried about aluminium scoring. Then find out the myriad of little jobs the thing is useful for.

Two people mentioning Proxxon-- a brand I think I only learned about a week ago. Is that the product to buy? Or should I get some deluxe dremel accessory combo?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Adam Savage loves his.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV0OfVGCIuY

I believe the bandage on his finger is from his lathe accident.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

MetaJew posted:

Two people mentioning Proxxon-- a brand I think I only learned about a week ago. Is that the product to buy? Or should I get some deluxe dremel accessory combo?
The proxxon I'm comparing my decades old dremel to is my dad's decades old machine so things might be way different now IDK. Dad's is not like the one Savage is showing off - it runs on 230v with no external tranformer. The thing about the three jaw chuck for holding small drill bits or just different diameter tools without having to change out the little collet might still be true. I had to buy on of those chucks extra for my old dremel but dad's proxxon came with it. My tool has a dumb sliding speed control that is also the on/off switch while the proxxon has a normal toggle on/off switch and a separate twist knob for speed, meaning I can keep a speed setting between starts, or set my drill bit to the work piece and then start the tool and get the speed I want, etc. It lies better in the hand esp. for precise work. My old dremel has no ball bearings for the axle, just bushings, and these are getting pretty worn so the whole tool rattles and buzzes these days. Not sure if dad's proxxon has them but it sure feels like it. It's just details but to me it's just a nicer machine. It's not miles better or anything and a dremel is fine but there are better options in the same price range IMO.

Dremel makes nice spinny bits though (and their cutting disc-to-spindle interface is superior), but you can get various assortment packages of dremel brand spinny things without buying the machine if you choose. I did own one of those dremel flex-shaft extension thingies once upon a time but that was a piece of poo poo that broke after very little usage even though I treated it gently so I'd stay clear of those. In fact dremel makes a bunch of what I'd call gimmick attachments that might all be worthless for all I know (I've tried the tile cutter and the chainsaw sharpener and they were both poo poo).

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




My experience with Proxxon is limited to a modern electric jig saw (very quiet and precise) and an old Micromot 'dremel', the one with the external transformer.
The Micromot has ball bearings for the main shaft. Its weak point is that after 30 or 40 years the plastic that holds the ball bearing in place has shifted or deformed a bit, making it vibrate a bit more. That's a bit of a nuisance. But otherwise, it's a great tool, and it used to be pretty much completely vibration free up until 10ish years ago. I could probably fix it but eh.

The micromot with the external transformer i have is only 18 watts. Despite that i can do a lot of stuff with it. But i am considering buying a brand new one, and that would be a mains powered Proxxon. Cutting through small steel things takes a long time with the little 18w motor.

I've also personally had a mains powered dremel knock off from a store brand. That thing sucked, because you could feel power go down as the device (quickly) heated up.
At work i have a nearly identical Dremel brand one. That thing is good. Doesn't get hot quickly, powerful enough, not too noisy. Idk if it has bushings or ball bearings.

There is one important thing to consider when you buy a multitool: some use a 'drill-like' claw/head (idk the english name), that you slide the tool into and then twist with your hand to clamp it in place. Exactly the way you put a drill bit in a cordless drill. That's good. My Micromot has one of those.

Others (the dremel and the knock-off), however, come with one 'sleeve' and multiple different inserts.



Like that. I hate that. Because if you buy random tools from different brands, or just want to use a tiny metal drill you already have etc etc it seems like you never had the right size insert. You then buy one. Remove the most used insert and put it aside. Do your work. And your most used insert you put aside is gone. That sucks so so SO bad.
I think there might be aftermarket universal claws, but ymmv.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jan 5, 2023

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I have a cordless Dremel that I haven't had cause to use in ages, but just the fact that it's cordless beats anything else.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Power tool battery advice:

Remember to charge it occasionally if it's Ni-MH. Those lose capacity and shoot up in internal resistance rapidly if left to self discharge for more than a few months.
Ni-Cd doesn't give a poo poo. Whatever's fine. They will always work. They don't really suffer much from deep discharge. But Ni-Cds are practically extinct by now, the survivers often being bad because of old age.

Lithium should be fine for 2 years if the thing has a 'real' on/off switch. Charge it to 70% and forget. Don't store lithium batteries at more than 70% and less than 30% if you put them away for a long time. Charger might refuse to charge if it's deep discharged because the battery chemistry gets all fucky wucky if it's really really empty, so just check the state of charge at least every 6 months even if it takes more than a year to self discharge.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jan 5, 2023

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Why do HD factory service manuals list torque specs in ranges? Sometimes the range is substantial, e.g. "70-80 lb-ft". Why force the technician holding the torque wrench to make a decision on what they'll dial in?

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MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

epswing posted:

Why do HD factory service manuals list torque specs in ranges? Sometimes the range is substantial, e.g. "70-80 lb-ft". Why force the technician holding the torque wrench to make a decision on what they'll dial in?

It's a range on every shop factory service manual I've ever read.

Probably to account for imprecise tools or not perfectly calibrated torque wrenches?

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