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Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni
Saw a good sale so I got myself a lil early Christmas present….



Probably will scoop up doubles after the New Year if the sales are good, also want to get one of the Tommy Caldwell Edlerid ropes but waffling on whether the color version is worth the extra $100

Anyone else filling out their racks with holiday sales?

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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Anza Borrego posted:

Saw a good sale so I got myself a lil early Christmas present….



Probably will scoop up doubles after the New Year if the sales are good, also want to get one of the Tommy Caldwell Edlerid ropes but waffling on whether the color version is worth the extra $100

Anyone else filling out their racks with holiday sales?

Who has totems on sale?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

armorer posted:

Who has totems on sale?

Literally never seen them on sale.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

Literally never seen them on sale.

Me neither but the post I was replying to implied they were on sale somewhere. I have a full set already but I'd pick up another black one if they were on a decent sale.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

I was assuming that was what you meant. These are never on sale! Spill the beans!!!

ploots
Mar 19, 2010

Anza Borrego posted:

Saw a good sale so I got myself a lil early Christmas present….



Probably will scoop up doubles after the New Year if the sales are good, also want to get one of the Tommy Caldwell Edlerid ropes but waffling on whether the color version is worth the extra $100

Anyone else filling out their racks with holiday sales?

Always pay for the bicolor rope

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni
Miyar Adventures and Ascent Outdoors had them marked down 20% or so about two weeks ago, I slept on it and got them for 15% off last week. Miyar is back up to $85 now but it looks like Ascent Cycles has them for $81 but they only have one each of black, yellow and blue.

I found em all through Google Shopping, it will find you the cheapest prices.

Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Dec 20, 2022

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni

ploots posted:

Always pay for the bicolor rope

This is just the kind of push I need :3:

Probably wait until after the New Year unless I can find a sizzling deal

E: no one has 70m at good prices :argh:

Anza Borrego fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Dec 20, 2022

Augster
Aug 5, 2011

I got a good deal on a crashpad on black Friday, which is the only time I've ever seen a crashpad on sale. Put it to good non-use over the weekend, happily not falling off a local highball: https://youtu.be/t29Nd20uQD8

Also started hangboarding again, goal is to do a V10 by spring. Made this goal last year too but I ended up only going to the boulder twice and then stopped training when Elden Ring came out.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
I got my totems through Oliunid, pricing seems to have jumped up though :(

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Augster posted:

I got a good deal on a crashpad on black Friday, which is the only time I've ever seen a crashpad on sale. Put it to good non-use over the weekend, happily not falling off a local highball: https://youtu.be/t29Nd20uQD8

Also started hangboarding again, goal is to do a V10 by spring. Made this goal last year too but I ended up only going to the boulder twice and then stopped training when Elden Ring came out.

:drat: Nice man. The first 30 seconds look easy, or at least you made it look easy, but then traversing over to the left and up looks sketchy. Are the holds good but you're just being extra cautious because gently caress falling? Or are they also actually that bad? And did you fall while learning that one? There's a highball at my crag I want to work on, but that's gotta be scary up that high and also I never have enough pads for something like that so I haven't even tried it :(



Overall it's been a mostly lovely year for climbing for me. Getting to go to Joe's Valley on the opposite side of the country was :krad: but there isn't even like a Runner Up for a second best climbing thing, indoors or out. Although my favorite section of the gym set a new problem last week that felt hard but doable. I was excited to see they graded it a V6 when I went last night, that'll be my 4th V6 if I send it and it'd be the only V6 I've sent this year if I can do it. Unfortunately though, while I was able to get half way through it on my first day working on it I must've done something to my elbow because on my second and third session I couldn't repeat the first move which has some really weird lock off with the elbow bent :(

I've got plenty of time before it's reset to rest up and give it a great effort, but I just really want to get it before the year end.

Augster
Aug 5, 2011

Sab669 posted:

:drat: Nice man. The first 30 seconds look easy, or at least you made it look easy, but then traversing over to the left and up looks sketchy. Are the holds good but you're just being extra cautious because gently caress falling? Or are they also actually that bad? And did you fall while learning that one? There's a highball at my crag I want to work on, but that's gotta be scary up that high and also I never have enough pads for something like that so I haven't even tried it :(

Yeah, the crux is a high bad crimp and stepping onto a dime-edge at crotch level, then rocking over the next foot to a half-decent sloper. After that the holds are much better, just long reaches between them. I practiced it on toprope solo to get it all dialed, though the crux was still about 50-50. Feels easy when I manage it, but ridiculously hard when I punt. Never actually sent it on the rope before I hopped on over pads; it seemed like it would be fine to fall off the crux at ~12ft but I didn't have to find out!

Augster fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Dec 22, 2022

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Augster posted:

I got a good deal on a crashpad on black Friday, which is the only time I've ever seen a crashpad on sale. Put it to good non-use over the weekend, happily not falling off a local highball: https://youtu.be/t29Nd20uQD8

Also started hangboarding again, goal is to do a V10 by spring. Made this goal last year too but I ended up only going to the boulder twice and then stopped training when Elden Ring came out.

Nice man. Belle Isle as in Detroit?

E: looks like Virginia.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Augster posted:

Yeah, the crux is a high bad crimp and stepping onto a dime-edge at crotch level, then rocking over the next foot to a half-decent sloper. After that the holds are much better, just long reaches between them. I practiced it on toprope solo to get it all dialed, though the crux was still about 50-50. Feels easy when I manage it, but ridiculously hard when I punt. Never actually sent it on the rope before I hopped on over pads; it seemed like it would be fine to fall off the crux at ~12ft but I didn't have to find out!


The line looks pretty drat cool that's for sure. So much movement!

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Hmm, got a gift card to REI for Christmas. Debating between some crampons, or new shoes.

I'm in Buffalo, which just got catastrophically dicked by that blizzard and then it's supposed to warm up and melt and probably freeze and it'd be cool to have something for those icy days. But on the flip side, I've probably done the least amount of hiking this year than in the last 5 years :shrug:

I've got some Butora Endeavors that I've been pretty happy with, although on a recent climbing session I noticed what I assume is adhesive was seeping out of the fabric near the heels? Like there was just a black/brownish liquid coming out of them. Didn't necessarily seem like reason to replace them yet, and I don't feel like they're a limiting factor but I have been curious to try some more aggressive shoes as I really like climbing overhung stuff.


The REI near me has mostly just expensive stuff:
* La Sportiva Katana
* Scarpa Drago LV
* Evolv Zenist

Any opinions on these? Probably going to make a trip out there either tonight or tomorrow and try some on. I can't even remember what size my shoes are currently, might just boil down to whatever's in stock that fits. And I generally prefer velcro to laces which is a point against the Katana.

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Dec 29, 2022

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Drago LVs are my go to outdoor shoe, and indoor shoe for boards.

I’ve heard good things about the zenist, but I think they are meant for sport?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Looking at both a little more closely, guess the "LV" in "Drago LV" stands for Low Volume, for people with smaller feet. I think mine are fatter but I'll still give 'em a try on.

Zenist's product description on Evolv's site says "Bouldering on modern gym style, smeary problems that require powerful body positions and all parts of the shoe." but I mean what makes a shoe a bouldering shoe vs a sport shoe :shrug: Tougher material to hold up against real rock maybe? I can't think of anything else.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Generally it’s the difference between trying to stand on small edges (hard midsole, sport climbing) vs. a soft midsole (more flexibility, easier to use your foot like a claw, steepness).

That said you can absolutely find overhung sport climbs, and vert boulders. Rock type near you will also play a difference, I generally prefer a hard toe box/midsole for granite, and softer shoes for limestone/sandstone.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Sab669 posted:

Hmm, got a gift card to REI for Christmas. Debating between some crampons, or new shoes.

I'm in Buffalo, which just got catastrophically dicked by that blizzard and then it's supposed to warm up and melt and probably freeze and it'd be cool to have something for those icy days. But on the flip side, I've probably done the least amount of hiking this year than in the last 5 years :shrug:


for hiking around in the midwest/east coast you really just need some micro spikes outside of some very specific use cases (Tuckerman's and those like it, actually ice climbing, etc.).

https://www.rei.com/product/890608/kahtoola-microspikes-traction-system

Jorath
Jul 9, 2001
I like these Yaktrax for walking in the snow/ice. They have several other options for additional traction.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity
Anyone have recommendations for must do boulder problems at Red Rock Canyon? Anything up to V8. I've already done The Pearl, Jones'n, and Pork Chop from a quick trip to Kraft.

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005

interrodactyl posted:

Anyone have recommendations for must do boulder problems at Red Rock Canyon? Anything up to V8. I've already done The Pearl, Jones'n, and Pork Chop from a quick trip to Kraft.

Alexisizer, V6, slopey fun times!
Monkey Bar, V2, really fun classic
Hyperglide, V4-5?
Classic Monkey, V6,
Monkey Bar Direct, V8
Natasha's Highball, V2 sick rear end highball
Perfect Poser, V1 sick rear end highball
Potato Chips, V2
Plumbers Crack, 5.9 (the back side)
Plumbers Crack 5.10 or v3 (front side, depends on how you do it)

All I can remember off the top of my head.

magicalmako fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Dec 30, 2022

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

interrodactyl posted:

Anyone have recommendations for must do boulder problems at Red Rock Canyon? Anything up to V8. I've already done The Pearl, Jones'n, and Pork Chop from a quick trip to Kraft.

Monkey traverse: starts below hyper glide and goes right

Bubble butt
The wave

There’s also a good roof if you go almost directly towards the mountain from monkey Boulder (technically gateway canyon) Avian flu and trytophan

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

spwrozek posted:

for hiking around in the midwest/east coast you really just need some micro spikes outside of some very specific use cases (Tuckerman's and those like it, actually ice climbing, etc.).

https://www.rei.com/product/890608/kahtoola-microspikes-traction-system

That's more or less what I was looking at (these). There's only like 2 trails in my area that could warrant them when the weather is just right, but shrug.



These stairs (300 of 'em) can get really treacherous in the winter when you get that snow-thaw-freeze weather cycle. Photo wasn't taken when they were basically impassable, clearly, but they can get real bad. Also I went to VT a few Winters ago, want to say it was Mt Mansfield I tried to hike and was woefully under-equipped. Would be cool to be able to open up winters a little more for me.

But I'm definitely leaning towards just getting some swanky shoes I'd normally not be willing to splurge on instead though. Out of work in 30 minutes then gonna drive the hour to the nearest REI, hopefully something from the aforementioned list is available in the right size. And then hit a super cool bouldering gym in Providence afterwards while in the area :toot:

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Dec 30, 2022

Freaquency
May 10, 2007

"Yes I can hear you, I don't have ear cancer!"

Sab669 posted:

That's more or less what I was looking at (these). There's only like 2 trails in my area that could warrant them when the weather is just right, but shrug.



These stairs (300 of 'em) can get really treacherous in the winter when you get that snow-thaw-freeze weather cycle. Photo wasn't taken when they were basically impassable, clearly, but they can get real bad. Also I went to VT a few Winters ago, want to say it was Mt Mansfield I tried to hike and was woefully under-equipped. Would be cool to be able to open up winters a little more for me.

But I'm definitely leaning towards just getting some swanky shoes I'd normally not be willing to splurge on instead though. Out of work in 30 minutes then gonna drive the hour to the nearest REI, hopefully something from the aforementioned list is available in the right size. And then hit a super cool bouldering gym in Providence afterwards while in the area :toot:

Get the shoes and then spend $25 on some Yaktrax. I have a pair of Kahtoola’s but leave them behind 95% of the time in favor of the Yaktrax. Sure, they don’t bite as sharply into the ice as some more serious traction devices, but I’ve always found that they get the job done.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity

magicalmako posted:

Alexisizer, V6, slopey fun times!
Monkey Bar, V2, really fun classic
Hyperglide, V4-5?
Classic Monkey, V6,
Monkey Bar Direct, V8
Natasha's Highball, V2 sick rear end highball
Perfect Poser, V1 sick rear end highball
Potato Chips, V2
Plumbers Crack, 5.9 (the back side)
Plumbers Crack 5.10 or v3 (front side, depends on how you do it)

All I can remember off the top of my head.

Ubiquitus posted:

Monkey traverse: starts below hyper glide and goes right

Bubble butt
The wave

There’s also a good roof if you go almost directly towards the mountain from monkey Boulder (technically gateway canyon) Avian flu and trytophan

TY for the recs! Gonna check these out and see what I'm psyched on.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Lame, either didn't have the shoes in my size or I didn't like them. Tried on all 3.

Grabbed a bouldering guide for the Gunks instead, beautiful area down there. I've seen lots of roped pics from there but I've never heard much about the bouldering.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF
This is a sick send of Dreamcatcher

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Aq-uKKtM_s

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Not just a sick one, but the best one. I watched Sharma and Webb on that thing and they both seemed to work so much harder. Her send is so smooth and just perfect, the camera work is also drat good.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF

KingColliwog posted:

Not just a sick one, but the best one. I watched Sharma and Webb on that thing and they both seemed to work so much harder. Her send is so smooth and just perfect, the camera work is also drat good.

It's nearly effortless looking! It's crazy.

The Sharma FA is a classic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs&t=123s

Hot Diggity! fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 12, 2023

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Really interesting watching their betas back to back^ Too bad Sharma's video is however old and therefore filmed on a potatocam (relative to modern standards :v:)




What a silly man. From his latest video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8jPTUEHBiI

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Hardly did any of the things I wanted to do to help build endurance prior to taking the lead course / test, but I just took the test today and passed and we got a great 2 hour session in. Only had to climb 1 grade under my limit so that's cool.

Technically I took the test like just before the pandemic and dipped my toes in, but was a much worse climber then so I had to climb further below my limit. I could tell I would enjoy it once I got to a harder grade but wasn't consistent with it then.

I also signed up for my gym's "adult team" so I'm looking forward to having some more structure and oversight to my climbing this year. Hopefully I can finally break past this plateau I've been at for a long time.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug
Somehow leveled up over the last 3 weeks and went from projecting gym V4-5’s to gym V5/6’s (which is probably an outdoor 3 but we’ll take it)

I guess all those cookies over Christmas paid off (but it’s probably the consistent climbing, decent diet, and regular stretching/yoga6

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Mezzanon posted:

Somehow leveled up over the last 3 weeks and went from projecting gym V4-5’s to gym V5/6’s (which is probably an outdoor 3 but we’ll take it)

I guess all those cookies over Christmas paid off (but it’s probably the consistent climbing, decent diet, and regular stretching/yoga6

Update: immediately destroyed by hubris. Jumped on a problem to show someone beta and tore something in my leg demonstrating a heel hook

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

oh hey cool there is a climbing thread. in tgo obviously, i'd looked in the fitness sub before lol. been indoor climbing 3-4 days a week since the beginning of last september, loving it. i go with my 2 little kids and brother plus a couple friends so we have a nice sized group right now. started mostly bouldering but i've been doing more routes lately as i want to get a lead certification to practice leading and go climbing outside in the spring/summer. any ontario climbers in here?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I'm across the border in the US and boulder at Niagara Glen all the time, which is either pretty close or super far away depending on where in Ontario you are :v:

There's also Rattlesnake Point and Mount Nemo, I think it's called, but I've only just started getting into Leading indoors so I haven't ventured out to those places yet.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

oh yeah the halton region stuff (rattlesnake, nemo, kelso) is basically my local crag, it's about 45 mins from me. have also been interested in going up to beaver valley and bruce peninsula and also down to niagara glen for day/weekend trips as well though, depending on how the summer shakes out

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Bruce Peninsula looks absolutely incredible, I've been meaning to take a trip up there for the longest time but just haven't yet.

I've got a bunch of PTO I need to use before July, maybe I should go there :thunk:

Need to look into how to bring my dogs into Canada with me.

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jan 26, 2023

Bread Set Jettison
Jan 8, 2009

The gym near me has a “babies first real dyno” on the wall that I’m struggling to send. I actually like climbing somewhat more dynamically, using momentum to my advantage etc. but this is a really “body fully off the wall” jump for me.

Any tips?

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BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010
It's hard to tell without seeing it, but there are basics. You want to pull yourself into the wall more than you'd like. It's not a campus move, really use your legs, your arms are to guide your body. And try to use both hands to grab the target hold, it's better for your shoulders. It also stops you from still holding the start with one of your hands.

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