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jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018

NTRabbit posted:

Does anyone have or know anything about the Samyang lens USB dock? I got one to update the firmware on my trio of lenses, but every time I try to connect to it with the Samyang Lens Station software it says "Access to the port 'COM1' is denied", and sub in every number for every other USB port (which means the software is at least detecting which port the dock is plugged into every time). None of the instructions of troubleshooting remotely helps, and I can't even find a random person 5 years ago who at least had the same problem and solved it without posting the answer.

I'm at a complete loss as to how to get it working. Mine is the E mount one if that makes a difference.

Try running Lens Station with admin rights

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NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




jarlywarly posted:

Try running Lens Station with admin rights

Yeah I tried that and it didn't make a difference.

e: Installed it on a different computer and it connected just fine, then it crashed halfway through an update and bricked my brand new 35mm f1.8 :shepicide:

2e: which I fixed by connecting my 75, preloading a copy of the 35 firmware renamed to 75, then hot swapping and hitting go, on my computer because the spare one was timing out the connection before it could complete every time, which now works because I've determined that the dock will only work if you try to connect to it in one port, fail, then hotswap into another port and click connect immediately :psyduck:

In conclusion Samyang is a land of contrasts

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Dec 24, 2022

Grimson
Dec 16, 2004



Hot take: I don't think lenses should need firmware updates.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Grimson posted:

Hot take: I don't think lenses should need firmware updates.

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Where's a good place to buy things second hand? My FIL is looking for some specific underwater camera gear and hes thinking about getting us to try buying some second hand when we go to the US.

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
You can try MPB or Keh but underwater gear is fairly niche, I'd imagine eBay might have more selection but I bet a lot gets sold within the diving / underwater photography community.

Pablo Bluth
Sep 7, 2007

I've made a huge mistake.
Ocean Leisure are a big nautical retailer in London that have a respectable underwater camera section. I'm not sure they do second hand but if they don't they might be able to point you in the direction of where the second hand market is in the UK.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

MPB is not too thorough with inspecting bodies. An A7R3 I bought from them showed no signs of abuse from the outside, but there was severe corrosion to the body (presumably from water) once I opened the body up.

Brrrmph
Feb 27, 2016

Слава Україні!
I had two good purchases from MPB in early 2021 and then two awful experiences in 2022. Their customer service is absolutely atrocious to work with. Weeks pass by with no response or refunds.

Looking around the Internet it seems that a lot of people think they have dropped off in quality this year.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

I sold two lenses and bought one from MPB about a month ago, it went perfect. They processed my lenses within a day of it getting to them, and had the one I was buying in the mail on day two.

So yeah reports of bad experiences have been growing, but I took a gamble and used them anyways and it was fine.

I've never bought a body from them though.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
I have an old NEX-5N and really enjoyed the NEX experience and alt-glass/manual-focus, etc, but it has a scratched-up screen and it'd be nice to upgrade to full-frame anyway. I think I'd be a good candidate for the A7R series, but they seem to run a bit of a premium compared to the non-R cameras.

A7r ii seems reasonable but after there it gets steep. Is it worth going to a non-R A7 iii or an A7R iii at all?

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Speaking of bad used gear and A7R series stuff, I owned an Rii for about half a day. Slightly askew (non-orthogonal? decentered?) lens mount. Fortunately I was able to quickly return it.

But coming from a Fuji X-T30 and a Nikon D810, it was a downgrade in UI, ergonomics, and general polish from either. Slightly better IQ than the 810, although the Nikon had nominally better DR at base ISO. AF more accurate than the D810 as well, but didn’t feel as fast. The X-T30’s AF system and interface just felt a good deal slicker and more responsive overall but of course the 42MP FF was capable of completely outstripping its acutance and color detail. The EVF kinda sucks.

All that said, if it hadn’t had a the fault, I would’ve kept it. But having a high performance sensor in such a small package would mean a lot to me, and I would happily work around the rough edges.

I don’t know if it would be worth it for anyone else. I also wouldn’t say it’s in anyway better than a D810, except it’s smaller and shoots 4K, which are two things that either matter a huge amount to someone or they don’t. A used D810 and good lens outlay are certainly going to be a good deal cheaper, and you can still have lots of manual legacy glass fun with F-Mount.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 28, 2022

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug
Two interactions with Adorama, bought a 70D and the focus was off, so I sent it back, and got a great 7Dmk2 which was categorized as "good". Shipping and refund times were within a week. Very good experience, and I look there first for used gear. I got a lens from MPB and it just had too many downsides. The quality was fine, and it arrived fairly quickly. Returning it took some time, they received it in a few days, but the actual refund took about exactly one month. I had to poke support three times. They said they were backlogged. If I saw something I really wanted for my price point and no one else had it, I'd still order from em probably. The quality on the equipment for both were more than "good" rating they had. Well, other than the 70D that no one really tested, I guess.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

SMERSH Mouth posted:

Speaking of bad used gear and A7R series stuff, I owned an Rii for about half a day. Slightly askew (non-orthogonal? decentered?) lens mount. Fortunately I was able to quickly return it.

But coming from a Fuji X-T30 and a Nikon D810, it was a downgrade in UI, ergonomics, and general polish from either. Slightly better IQ than the 810, although the Nikon had nominally better DR at base ISO. AF more accurate than the D810 as well, but didn’t feel as fast. The X-T30’s AF system and interface just felt a good deal slicker and more responsive overall but of course the 42MP FF was capable of completely outstripping its acutance and color detail. The EVF kinda sucks.

does the X-T30 have a good experience with alt-glass at all? focus-sparkle is nice on the NEXs, I found manual focus to be very useful for shooting fast lenses in low light, because I just never found low-light AF satisfactory, but that was all pre-phase-detect-pixels. Samyang 35/1.4 was a very heavy-hitter on NEX for low-light shooting, way faster+better accuracy than the 5N could deliver in autofocus at (pre-Art) Sigma DG 30mm f/2.8., which was my next fastest lens.

the x-system is great though, yeah. fuji put together a photographer's camera there.

I'm mostly a 35-50-28-105 (FF equivalent) prime kinda shooter depending on what's going on. A good 28-35'ish equivalent prime would be great for most of my shooting, especially if it was reasonably fast.

also A7 is cool for nikonos, the nauticam a7 series gets flash sync ports and you get a full-frame lens so the usual nikonos professional lineup "makes sense" in terms of lens roles. You could also build a nice canoe camera with the "amphibious" above-water lenses, the 35mm (50mm above-water due to magnification from the port) is actually a pretty nice lens in terms of rendering, here's an article about the parent lens (which is 35mm due to not having a port). It's scale focus, but, you have a EVF that works fine, that'd actually be a great amphibious (although not lightweight) way to use that lens. NEX isn't nearly as nice because your 35mm f/2.5 lens is now 50mm abovewater and then 1.5x that is a 75mm lens... and the other underwater lenses aren't technically meant to be shot above water (although some of them reportedly work OK).

The sony platform has just always been kinda cool for wacky hijinx like manual-focus alt-glass, video, and underwater shooting. Good intervalometer support (for astro stacking) would be another. And that tends to be what I enjoy doing, messing around with weird stuff to see how well it works.

And for a more non-technical camera the Fuji X100 series or similar (Sony R100 or whatever, ricoh, etc) always seemed great. I love the size and quality there, I like prime anyway, 35mm/30mm/28mm/40mm are all great and pancake lenses really increase portability. But the A7 always has been kinda interesting as a technical camera for weird poo poo.

Maybe one of the "645 digital' like Ricoh/Pentax or Fuji or whatever would be interesting too, a mirrorless or EVIL above-FF sensor with Sony-like weirdo technical capabilities would be fun too.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Dec 29, 2022

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

I used to run around with an a6000 and some cheap eBay uw housing but really only ever used the kit zoom at 16mm on it. It was fine. The plastic dome port was poo poo of course but compared to my other option, a 1st gen Digital Rebel in a legit Sea&Sea housing, the extra resolution actually outstripped the detail provided by the 6mp sensor under the professional glass dome.

Adapting nikonos lenses to an A7 body sounds like it might not work great with the wider angle stuff…? corner smearing with rear elements that protrude too close to the sensor and all that. But I’m just assuming that Nikon formulated the wider uw Nikkors with a/symmetrical designs rather than retrofocus. Maybe they actually do ok?

As for adapted glass on Fuji, it’s fine. Fuji themselves only make a 27/2.8 but if you want a faster prime in that FL range there are many 28/2 lenses out there for not that much (eg Nikkor-NC). One-button zoom in; multitude of other focus aids. But I might opt for an X-T3 instead of a -30 just for the extra EVF magnification and resolution.

SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Dec 29, 2022

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




I'd like to buy a mirrorless camera, 1–2 lenses, and any practical accessories – something to learn the ropes of camera photography with, just for fun. I enjoy moody weather, and we have a lot of it here, so I'd feel more comfortable with weather-sealed gear.

Budget: Ideally below $2k for body and glass combined, but it's a flexible number. As I'm in Latvia, assume that there's no used market.
Current gear: None on the camera front. In terms of accessories, in a broad sense, I'm an Affinity Photo user, and I carry the underlying backpack for https://blackember.com/products/dslr-pack – I'd be glad to be able to just buy that for camera storage.
Interests: Portrait and street photography primarily, travel/landscape a few times per year. Maybe an occasional slice of life video, e.g., our traditional folk dancing. Example video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8VVKUp-m0c

Mega Comrade
Apr 22, 2004

Listen buddy, we all got problems!
Most of the big pre-owned online shops will ship internationally, I'm reasonably sure MPB.com would ship to you for example.

On the actual gear side. You mention street and maybe some travel so maybe consider APS-C?

The Fuji x-T3 is weather sealed and fuji have a large line up of weather sealed lenses too.
Maybe the XF 35mm f/2 and combined with the XF 70-300mm for longer reach.
You could swap out the 35mm for a midrange zoom if you prefer for a little more versatility.

Regardless it should be easy to get an xt3 + 2 XF quality weather sealed lenses for under $2k.

Mega Comrade fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jan 2, 2023

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




Mega Comrade posted:

Most of the big pre-owned online shops will ship internationally, I'm reasonably sure MPB.com would ship to you for example.

I checked this site specifically, and they have an EU storefront with a Berlin warehouse - meaning I’m happy to buy used there, as it’s vetted by someone and the shipping is intra-EU (tax thing).

harperdc
Jul 24, 2007

Seconding Fujifilm. Would recommend as a starter the X-T30 and 18-55 2.8-4 zoom lens, as that is both a capable but also incredibly flexible starting point.

The X-T30 camera body is the ‘entry’ level for Fujifilm’s proper series (as opposed to the even cheaper ones that are mysteriously popular in like Thailand) but it’s still unreal how much you get compared to DSLRs even 10 years ago. I’ve got the predecessor X-T20 and have used it to shoot sports including motorsports.

The 18-55 zoom should be available cheap because it’s the lens sold as part of a kit with many of the camera bodies, but it’s got image stabilization on the lens and very good optics. Importantly, it also covers a very wide range of normal shooting.

Use it for a while, see what the weaknesses or difficulties are using that lens with what you want to shoot, and go find another lens from there. Finding that you like the viewing angle at 35 mm? Go buy a 35 mm prime lens. Need a longer lens? There are at least four of various price levels and length. Want a lens that’s physically smaller? Buy the pancake 27 mm. Etc, etc.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Weird concentric ripples in the lens coating. Have to catch the light just right to see it. Just got this lens a few days ago.

Any idea what causes this? I have another lens (a Ukrainian Helios 81… generally something with a lot less fit, finish and quality assurance than a Mamiya 6 lens) with this same thing. Never noticed any observable effects from it, but what’s the deal with this? Seems to be present on the rear element as well.


theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Looks like newton's rings. Perhaps two lens elements are becoming separated from each other?

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




Mega Comrade posted:

Most of the big pre-owned online shops will ship internationally, I'm reasonably sure MPB.com would ship to you for example.

On the actual gear side. You mention street and maybe some travel so maybe consider APS-C?

The Fuji x-T3 is weather sealed and fuji have a large line up of weather sealed lenses too.
Maybe the XF 35mm f/2 and combined with the XF 70-300mm for longer reach.
You could swap out the 35mm for a midrange zoom if you prefer for a little more versatility.

Regardless it should be easy to get an xt3 + 2 XF quality weather sealed lenses for under $2k.

harperdc posted:

Seconding Fujifilm. Would recommend as a starter the X-T30 and 18-55 2.8-4 zoom lens, as that is both a capable but also incredibly flexible starting point.

The X-T30 camera body is the ‘entry’ level for Fujifilm’s proper series (as opposed to the even cheaper ones that are mysteriously popular in like Thailand) but it’s still unreal how much you get compared to DSLRs even 10 years ago. I’ve got the predecessor X-T20 and have used it to shoot sports including motorsports.

The 18-55 zoom should be available cheap because it’s the lens sold as part of a kit with many of the camera bodies, but it’s got image stabilization on the lens and very good optics. Importantly, it also covers a very wide range of normal shooting.

Use it for a while, see what the weaknesses or difficulties are using that lens with what you want to shoot, and go find another lens from there. Finding that you like the viewing angle at 35 mm? Go buy a 35 mm prime lens. Need a longer lens? There are at least four of various price levels and length. Want a lens that’s physically smaller? Buy the pancake 27 mm. Etc, etc.

Thank you for suggestions! Doing my own research before posting, I had also figured out that it'll likely make sense to get a Fuji APS-C camera and either a zoom lens of like 18-55 mm or a prime around 30 mm, even though I definitely don't understand about any of this to make informed comparisons between f-stops and whatnot.

Adding a few other Fuji models (that all use the same sensor I think), it looks like this to me, in terms of differences and excluding numbers I can't parse yet, like minimum shutter speed:

X-T3
- higher resolution EVF
- has dual card slots
- has headphone port
- has weather hardening
- is bigger
- 4k DCI @ 60, h265

X-T30
- has scene modes, whatever that is
- has built-in flash

X-T4
- has IBIS
- has fully articulated screen
- higher resolution EVF
- has dual card slots
- has weather hardening
- is bigger
- 4k DCI @ 60, h265

X-S10
- has IBIS
- has fully articulated screen
- has scene modes, whatever that is
- has built-in flash

X-T30 II
- has scene modes, whatever that is
- has built-in flash

I have fairly large hands, and I'd prefer weather hardening to be an official thing for the camera for psychological comfort, if nothing else, which I'm keen to use to cut down on decision paralysis and simplify this question to X-T3 vs X-T4. Between the two, cross-referencing DPR, X-T4 internally seems to bring:
- IBIS
- “improved autofocus”
- “larger battery”
From my perspective, I'm uncertain if, especially for a learning camera, IBIS is something that I should want strongly, or what the AF improvement would be. The difference between cheapest X-T4 and X-T3 on MPB is 1039-794 = EUR 245, or a 30% prince increase to get X-T4. Does that sound closer to a good or to a bad value for money?

On the lenses, given that I've yet to develop a clue, it's probably for the best to start with a single 18-55 mm lens, and then just return to the matter of glass shopping when I develop a better understanding of their limitations and my preferences. Window-shopping around, I'm finding used these two:

Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR - 784 EUR
Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS - 299 EUR

I literally have no idea how to compare these two, though, and if I missed any other XF lenses. I see on DPReview they recommend a Sigma lens for this zoom range as well, but I'd rather keep it simple and stick to just Fuji things for the moment.

Thoughts, suggestions? Either combination is safely within my preferred budget.

cinci zoo sniper fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jan 2, 2023

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

cinci zoo sniper posted:


X-T4

...
Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS - 299 EUR


That's my vote. I started down the fuji system late 2021 w/ a used XT-2 and a prime. Picked up a stray lens every few months. Very happy with the system. The XT-3 never appealed to me as a big enough upgrade for the cost, whereas IBIS did. If you are shooting portraits handheld, slow street handheld, landscapes, etc I think you will enjoy the benefits of IBIS. This thread convinced me to try the 18-55 and it is stupidly good for its price point. But that one in particular isn't WR. The 16-55 is (I've never touched one but understand it to be is well-regarded), as is the 16-80 (not as sharp as the 18-55, is slower, but is probably my favorite outdoor romp lens).

I will probably upgrade to an XT-5 this year. From the XT-2 I imagine I will be pretty happy.

litany of gulps
Jun 11, 2001

Fun Shoe

cinci zoo sniper posted:

Thank you for suggestions! Doing my own research before posting, I had also figured out that it'll likely make sense to get a Fuji APS-C camera and either a zoom lens of like 18-55 mm or a prime around 30 mm, even though I definitely don't understand about any of this to make informed comparisons between f-stops and whatnot.

Lower f-stops will achieve a stronger background blur effect and a smaller depth of field. Just as importantly, they will also allow you to operate in lower lighting conditions without going to super low shutter speeds. An f/1.4 or f/1.8 lens, for example, can allow you to take pictures at night while walking around in the streets, while an f/4 lens would really struggle and an f/7 or whatever wouldn't work at all.

quote:

I have fairly large hands, and I'd prefer weather hardening to be an official thing for the camera for psychological comfort, if nothing else, which I'm keen to use to cut down on decision paralysis and simplify this question to X-T3 vs X-T4. Between the two, cross-referencing DPR, X-T4 internally seems to bring:
- IBIS
- “improved autofocus”
- “larger battery”
From my perspective, I'm uncertain if, especially for a learning camera, IBIS is something that I should want strongly, or what the AF improvement would be. The difference between cheapest X-T4 and X-T3 on MPB is 1039-794 = EUR 245, or a 30% prince increase to get X-T4. Does that sound closer to a good or to a bad value for money?

IBIS is really good, as it allows you to use lower shutter speeds without getting blurry pictures. This, similarly to having access to a low f-stop number, lets you use the camera in poor lighting conditions. Better autofocuses typically mean a few different things. With a newer mirrorless camera, it could mean that the computer in the camera is better at figuring out what you want it to focus on (for example, with eye-tracking or recognizing faces, animals, etc.). It could also refer to the speed - how quickly the camera can refocus and track moving targets. When talking about better autofocus for a lens, that's always going to mean how quickly the motor in the lens moves or how much noise it makes while moving.

quote:

On the lenses, given that I've yet to develop a clue, it's probably for the best to start with a single 18-55 mm lens, and then just return to the matter of glass shopping when I develop a better understanding of their limitations and my preferences. Window-shopping around, I'm finding used these two:

Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR - 784 EUR
Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS - 299 EUR

I literally have no idea how to compare these two, though, and if I missed any other XF lenses. I see on DPReview they recommend a Sigma lens for this zoom range as well, but I'd rather keep it simple and stick to just Fuji things for the moment.

Thoughts, suggestions? Either combination is safely within my preferred budget.

I don't use Fuji, but the 16-55 has a constant f-number, so you can use 2.8 at any focal length. The other one would be able to reach 2.8 at 18mm (zoomed out), but it would shift to 4 as you go to 55 mm (zoom in). If you buy a weather resistant camera but your lens isn't weather sealed, you also really don't functionally have a weather resistant camera.

Thoren
May 28, 2008

cinci zoo sniper posted:


X-T4
- has IBIS
- has fully articulated screen
- higher resolution EVF
- has dual card slots
- has weather hardening
- is bigger
- 4k DCI @ 60, h265

The only drawbacks of the X-T4 are the size/weight and the vlogger flippy screen. It's by no means large, but you do miss out on the convenience of having a truly small camera setup. (The 27mm Pancake gets it pretty close.) Still, the battery life is awesome. The IBIS is convenient.

I'll give you a good price on an 18-55mm + 27mm combo if you're interested. (Assuming Latvia doesn't charge much import tax)

Mega Comrade
Apr 22, 2004

Listen buddy, we all got problems!

cinci zoo sniper posted:


Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR - 784 EUR
Fujifilm XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS - 299 EUR


The 18-55 is a kit lens but considered probably the best one ever made. Small, light and sharp. BUT not weather sealed.

The 16-55 is a far better lens, way sharper and is weather sealed but it's huge and heavy in comparison and a LOT more.


So personally I'd say look at the 18-55 or spend a little more for the 16-80, which has a bit more reach and has WR.

Mega Comrade fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jan 2, 2023

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




litany of gulps posted:

Lower f-stops will achieve a stronger background blur effect and a smaller depth of field. Just as importantly, they will also allow you to operate in lower lighting conditions without going to super low shutter speeds. An f/1.4 or f/1.8 lens, for example, can allow you to take pictures at night while walking around in the streets, while an f/4 lens would really struggle and an f/7 or whatever wouldn't work at all.

IBIS is really good, as it allows you to use lower shutter speeds without getting blurry pictures. This, similarly to having access to a low f-stop number, lets you use the camera in poor lighting conditions. Better autofocuses typically mean a few different things. With a newer mirrorless camera, it could mean that the computer in the camera is better at figuring out what you want it to focus on (for example, with eye-tracking or recognizing faces, animals, etc.). It could also refer to the speed - how quickly the camera can refocus and track moving targets. When talking about better autofocus for a lens, that's always going to mean how quickly the motor in the lens moves or how much noise it makes while moving.
Oh, I see – thank you for detailed explanation! I'll unlikely grok it before I try it out in practice, but the basic ideas feel much clearer now.

litany of gulps posted:

I don't use Fuji, but the 16-55 has a constant f-number, so you can use 2.8 at any focal length. The other one would be able to reach 2.8 at 18mm (zoomed out), but it would shift to 4 as you go to 55 mm (zoom in). If you buy a weather resistant camera but your lens isn't weather sealed, you also really don't functionally have a weather resistant camera.
I should've probably looked up what Fuji acronyms meant. :v: I see now that only lenses with the WR designation are declared to be weather-resistant. Quickly re-checking Fuji lenses, it appears to me that the WR teens-fifties zoom category doesn't only have F4.0 lenses for 16-80 and 18-120 mm.

Thoren posted:

The only drawbacks of the X-T4 are the size/weight and the vlogger flippy screen. It's by no means large, but you do miss out on the convenience of having a truly small camera setup. (The 27mm Pancake gets it pretty close.) Still, the battery life is awesome. The IBIS is convenient.

I'll give you a good price on an 18-55mm + 27mm combo if you're interested. (Assuming Latvia doesn't charge much import tax)
My hands are on the larger side (e.g., comfortably using a pro max iPhone with one hand and no knobs or grips on it), so the increased size is a handling advantage to me, I'd think. On the lens combo though, I appreciate the offer, but the import tax will be 21% + whatever is the photography gear tax, if you're not shipping from EU, and I'd like a weather-sealed option, I think.

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




Thanks, everyone, for the camera advice! I've settled on Fuji X-T4 for the camera choice, now to decided between 16-55 and 16-80, and if there are any accessories that I should take care of right away.

Mega Comrade posted:

The 18-55 is a kit lens but considered probably the best one ever made. Small, light and sharp. BUT not weather sealed.

The 16-55 is a far better lens, way sharper and is weather sealed but it's huge and heavy in comparison and a LOT more.


So personally I'd say look at the 18-55 or spend a little more for the 16-80, which has a bit more reach and has WR.



Hmm. Shorter length is appealing (pancake is just there for my own curiosity) - does someone know where I could check some comparison footage between F2.8 and F4.0, maybe even these exact lenses, to get an idea of what difference is like at the same focal length?

As far as price is conerned, Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f/4 R OIS WR I can get for 524 EUR, so 260 EUR/50% price increase less than the 16-55. I guess, lack (I assume?) of motor does drive the price down? Would that be something major to miss?

JAY ZERO SUM GAME
Oct 18, 2005

Walter.
I know you know how to do this.
Get up.


SMERSH Mouth posted:

Weird concentric ripples in the lens coating. Have to catch the light just right to see it. Just got this lens a few days ago.

Any idea what causes this? I have another lens (a Ukrainian Helios 81… generally something with a lot less fit, finish and quality assurance than a Mamiya 6 lens) with this same thing. Never noticed any observable effects from it, but what’s the deal with this? Seems to be present on the rear element as well.



it's hard to know if we're talking about the same thing

but... just on a hunch, use a piece of paper to cover up the stepped surface of the lens just outside of the glass. are you seeing an effect of reflection from that...?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

No, he's talking about the coloured rings you can see on the lens coating itself.

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




cinci zoo sniper posted:

Thanks, everyone, for the camera advice! I've settled on Fuji X-T4 for the camera choice, now to decided between 16-55 and 16-80, and if there are any accessories that I should take care of right away.



Hmm. Shorter length is appealing (pancake is just there for my own curiosity) - does someone know where I could check some comparison footage between F2.8 and F4.0, maybe even these exact lenses, to get an idea of what difference is like at the same focal length?

As far as price is conerned, Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f/4 R OIS WR I can get for 524 EUR, so 260 EUR/50% price increase less than the 16-55. I guess, lack (I assume?) of motor does drive the price down? Would that be something major to miss?

Having checked some photo galleries and videos related to 16-80, or how it would compare to 16-55, 16-80 looks more than good enough, by a comical margin, for what I've been speculating about. I'll be glad to spend that money on like a shoulder strap, probably a replacement battery for the used camera I'm buying, and whatever else instead. Thanks for the suggestion, Mega Comrade!

pumped up for school
Nov 24, 2010

cinci zoo sniper posted:

Having checked some photo galleries and videos related to 16-80, or how it would compare to 16-55, 16-80 looks more than good enough, by a comical margin, for what I've been speculating about. I'll be glad to spend that money on like a shoulder strap, probably a replacement battery for the used camera I'm buying, and whatever else instead. Thanks for the suggestion, Mega Comrade!

After you've had it for a while, if you see a pattern for what range you catch yourself shooting often (eg 23mm, 50mm, etc) you might want to start looking for a faster prime. I -really- like my 16-80, but now that I'm in the gloom of winter I appreciate a little more aperture. Have been setting ISO to auto and it has been maxed out most of the time lately at f/4 when I'm shooting backyard birds (fast shutter).

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




pumped up for school posted:

After you've had it for a while, if you see a pattern for what range you catch yourself shooting often (eg 23mm, 50mm, etc) you might want to start looking for a faster prime. I -really- like my 16-80, but now that I'm in the gloom of winter I appreciate a little more aperture. Have been setting ISO to auto and it has been maxed out most of the time lately at f/4 when I'm shooting backyard birds (fast shutter).

Right, had missed that you mentioned it as well, my bad. And yeah, that's the plan. I live far enough north that the Sun doesn't really set in June, so I have until September, or an equator-bound holiday, to figure that one out. Plenty of time, I'll just need to keep notes somewhere with the distances I'm using.

harperdc
Jul 24, 2007

cinci zoo sniper posted:

Right, had missed that you mentioned it as well, my bad. And yeah, that's the plan. I live far enough north that the Sun doesn't really set in June, so I have until September, or an equator-bound holiday, to figure that one out. Plenty of time, I'll just need to keep notes somewhere with the distances I'm using.

The good news is that the lens has markings for major distances - probably 16, 23, 35, 50 and 80 - so you can get a feel for how often you’re using each of those.

The other good news is that metadata in photos contains focal length, so if you can parse that (and I think somebody in the general thread was asking for this very thing for Windows) you can see what you most commonly use for photos.

But yeah, I have three of the four ‘Fujicrons’ (16 f/2.8, 23 f/2, 35 f/2) and they’re all really good for being less than €400 new and all WR lenses.

JAY ZERO SUM GAME
Oct 18, 2005

Walter.
I know you know how to do this.
Get up.


35mm til I die

cinci zoo sniper
Mar 15, 2013




Are there any thread favourite NP-W235 batteries? Also, memory support for X-T4 is Dual SD/SDHC/SDXC card slots (UHS-II supported) - is there any brand/model that's particularly well-regarded?

harperdc posted:

The other good news is that metadata in photos contains focal length, so if you can parse that (and I think somebody in the general thread was asking for this very thing for Windows) you can see what you most commonly use for photos.

I've worked with EXIF data before, including writing software for one of my former jobs, that would pull out certain metadata from photographs. If my photo management story won't look much smarter than folders at whenever that point comes, I'll just whip a toy utility up to count stats for me.

harperdc posted:

The good news is that the lens has markings for major distances - probably 16, 23, 35, 50 and 80 - so you can get a feel for how often you’re using each of those.

Oh nice, this will be useful for me.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
Wasabi batteries do well.

Do not buy SD cards from Amazon, too many fakes. Any brand name is fine from a good dealer/office supply store.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

cinci zoo sniper posted:

Are there any thread favourite NP-W235 batteries? Also, memory support for X-T4 is Dual SD/SDHC/SDXC card slots (UHS-II supported) - is there any brand/model that's particularly well-regarded?

SanDisk has been the default for many years but my feeling is the quality of the cards has declined a bit. Like the storing your data part is fine, but they use cheaper plastic on the cards and little pieces fall off after a while.. I had an SD slot get a bent pin because of it last year.

They're still probably fine, just keep an eye on their condition and toss it if any signs of wear develop. Not worth saving a buck if it means shipping your camera off for repair.

The "money is no object" cards are Sony Tough ones. They're more built for abuse (within reason).

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

cinci zoo sniper posted:

I've worked with EXIF data before, including writing software for one of my former jobs, that would pull out certain metadata from photographs. If my photo management story won't look much smarter than folders at whenever that point comes, I'll just whip a toy utility up to count stats for me.
Hey cinci, I'm not a Fuji guy so don't on the specifics of the bodies and lenses there. But just wanted comment on the used market, if you're open to the idea. I'm in a pretty similar boat there, but there are still used market options if you search around. Also ebay from Germany/France often has decent options. Due to our weird markets some stuff is way overpriced and I was able to get my M50 for about half of the retail price at the time.

As for EXIF, you could certainly make it a project but Lightroom can do it for you too :)

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Mega Comrade
Apr 22, 2004

Listen buddy, we all got problems!

cinci zoo sniper posted:

Are there any thread favourite NP-W235 batteries? Also, memory support for X-T4 is Dual SD/SDHC/SDXC card slots (UHS-II supported) - is there any brand/model that's particularly well-regarded?



SanDisk, lexar, transcend , Sony and pny are all good.
The biggest issue with buying cards is getting one that isn't fake. Amazon is FULL of fake cards.
Just do a little search and you can find guides to help avoid it and when they arrive check they are authentic, the fakes have gotten very good but there are still a few telltale signs.

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