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Those are dry-transfers. Yeah, carefully cut them out, then tape them to where you want them. Then you carefully rub them onto the surface. Slowly lift up the backing paper to see if it fully transferred. Here's a tutorial. They're my least favorite kind of decal since I never have good luck with the larger ones, but they look better than stickers and tend to be more durable than water-slides, in my experience. Moai Ou fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Jan 3, 2023 |
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Jan 3, 2023 23:34
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Moai Ou posted:Those are dry-transfers. Yeah, carefully cut them out, then tape them to where you want them. Then you carefully rub them onto the surface. Slowly lift up the backing paper to see if it fully transferred. Thanks so much, I really appreciate that.
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Jan 4, 2023 00:55
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Happy 1000 pages of plamo, may your nubs be ever smoothly cut.
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Jan 4, 2023 02:26
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Ibblebibble posted:Happy 1000 pages of plamo, may your nubs be ever smoothly cut. Speaking of which, the Gundam Planet nippers have been out of stock for a year. Do I need to just pony up for Godhands at this point?
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Jan 4, 2023 02:46
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built an egg I really like the egg. There's a decent chance I'm gonna build more eggs
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Jan 4, 2023 03:04
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  Feel like American sports leagues are leaving money on the table here
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Jan 4, 2023 03:07
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My sister got me the MG Epyon for Christmas, one of the dudes on my list. It's my first MG, though I have done two RGs before. Our plans to visit our other sister were disrupted by the big storm, and with them her plan to pick it up on the way, so before Christmas she swung by Target and got me the Livelance Heaven so I'd have something to open on Christmas morning, forgetting that she got it for me earlier this year. So she went back and exchanged it for a HG Wing Zero Sky. She thought it looked cool. More dudes for me! Dr Christmas fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Jan 4, 2023 |
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Jan 4, 2023 04:27
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i do believe i hate waterslide decals
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Jan 4, 2023 04:52
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SnakesRevenge posted:Speaking of which, the Gundam Planet nippers have been out of stock for a year. Do I need to just pony up for Godhands at this point? The nice single blade Dispae nippers are about 95% of the way to Godhands at about a quarter of the price. Godhands are very nice, but I don't think I could ever convince myself to buy a set, even at my most spendy. BisbyWorl posted:i do believe i hate waterslide decals Never not decal, imo. What's troubling you?
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Jan 4, 2023 06:04
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SnakesRevenge posted:Speaking of which, the Gundam Planet nippers have been out of stock for a year. Do I need to just pony up for Godhands at this point? In the same vein; I'm loving my non brand budget nano file but with both the nano file and hobby knife I often still have a small flat rectangle area that is perfectly flush but seems to have a different type of surface. Like its polished more than the rest. How would I get rid of this effect? My nail buffers don't seem to work. I figured they'd do the trick...
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Jan 4, 2023 08:26
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Mindblast posted:In the same vein; I'm loving my non brand budget nano file but with both the nano file and hobby knife I often still have a small flat rectangle area that is perfectly flush but seems to have a different type of surface. Like its polished more than the rest. How would I get rid of this effect? My nail buffers don't seem to work. I figured they'd do the trick... For this I like to use a melamine sponge (magic eraser) to rough the area back up, it matches pretty well with the surface kits come with.
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Jan 4, 2023 15:03
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Mindblast posted:In the same vein; I'm loving my non brand budget nano file but with both the nano file and hobby knife I often still have a small flat rectangle area that is perfectly flush but seems to have a different type of surface. Like its polished more than the rest. How would I get rid of this effect? My nail buffers don't seem to work. I figured they'd do the trick...
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Jan 4, 2023 15:21
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I got an airbrush for Christmas (Iwata Eclipse hp-cs), and after a couple disappointing months constantly rebrushing the same parts or melting them with Krylon propellant, I’m really looking forwards to putting Vallejo paint and Quick-Shine through it. However, I still haven’t pulled the trigger, because I’m very anxious that I’ll manage to brick it, because this is my first creative endeavor since grade school and I’m not at all used to doing things by feel. As you might have guessed, I’m ADHD so I could probably go another few months accumulating more paint, tools and chemicals without ever getting around to using the thing. So, what I’m asking is - please walk me through a basic airbrush session, so I can get over this hump without wrecking my tools?
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Jan 4, 2023 15:51
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I don't know about the operation of the airbrush, but my gf was advised to practice on plastic spoons when learning how to use it. Their convex and concave nature help you figure out angles and such when dealing with non-flat surfaces and it is cheap to get a million of them to work on and then trash.
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Jan 4, 2023 16:21
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Kibner posted:I don't know about the operation of the airbrush, but my gf was advised to practice on plastic spoons when learning how to use it. Their convex and concave nature help you figure out angles and such when dealing with non-flat surfaces and it is cheap to get a million of them to work on and then trash. Thanks for the reminder!
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Jan 4, 2023 16:25
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Waffleman_ posted:
  
Kaiju Cage Match fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Jan 4, 2023 |
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Jan 4, 2023 16:30
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I can't believe they still haven't done an HG Cleatus
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Jan 4, 2023 17:15
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What’s the general consensus on volks kits? The engage sr1 looks really good for a gothicmade design but I’m not sure if I want to get it right now or not.
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Jan 4, 2023 17:44
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Yeah same question from me, I love the FSS suits but they look old and for some reason it's hard to find any actual posed images of them. Even if the kits are okay do they even have much articulation?
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Jan 4, 2023 18:20
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:What’s the general consensus on volks kits? The engage sr1 looks really good for a gothicmade design but I’m not sure if I want to get it right now or not. I picked up a couple of the Volks 1/100 FSS kits recently, and have made a fair amount of progress building the Siren Neptune. The end results are great looking, but these are definitely not beginner level kits. If I were to make the unfair comparison to Bandai kits, parts aren't snap fit, fit doesn't feel great (but it really does come together well), a lot more sanding of nubs and so on. The plastic is a lot harder, which means you can put a lot more stress on parts cutting them from the sprue. As the designs are a lot more organic than many other mecha, the build of the inner frame alone is a lot more involved and it even feels like PG level of parts in an MG scale kit. This may make it sound like I dislike the kits. Quite the opposite, I'm loving them for the challenge - I've done an awful lot of Bandai kits of late, and tire of the easy mode. I have no doubt I'll be getting at least a couple more once I've got through these. I'd say the articulation is somewhere between HG and MG, but probably more on the HG side. I'm not sure this is something I'd do a lot of posing with, though, as it's a lot more delicate than other mecha. I'll try and get some in-progress photos this weekend.
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Jan 4, 2023 20:05
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My experiences with Volks kits is limited to their scale models, and they are definitely a scale model company and it shows. I've seen a split on their mecha based around a person's level of tolerance for modeling tasks. If you like to build cars and tanks and whatnot, they're relatively straight-forward and make some neat-looking products. If you're a gunpla-only person and you're not up for gluing, sanding, filling, and painting, they're probably not your cup of tea. CommunityEdition posted:I got an airbrush for Christmas (Iwata Eclipse hp-cs), and after a couple disappointing months constantly rebrushing the same parts or melting them with Krylon propellant, I’m really looking forwards to putting Vallejo paint and Quick-Shine through it. However, I still haven’t pulled the trigger, because I’m very anxious that I’ll manage to brick it, because this is my first creative endeavor since grade school and I’m not at all used to doing things by feel. As you might have guessed, I’m ADHD so I could probably go another few months accumulating more paint, tools and chemicals without ever getting around to using the thing. The good news is that while you may give yourself an arduous cleaning task, as long as you don't bend the needle tip or scratch the hell out of the paint chamber, your mistakes won't be permanent. To avoid either of these catastrophic failure conditions, don't drop the needle, don't drop the airbrush, insert the needle into the brush gently, and don't use hard tools to get paint out of the brush when you clean it. When I bust out the airbrush, I pull out my paint booth first. Since I use acrylics, this is a cardboard box with a big open filter stuck at the back to catch particulates. Use a real spray booth with active ventilation if you're going to be using anything other than water-based acrylics. Booth goes on my table, compressor gets plugged in and filling, and I set out my cleaning supplies - cleanser, alcohol if I really gently caress up, interdental brush to clean out the bits, and a pokey airbrush nozzle cleaning tool to get any accumulated crud out of the nozzle when I'm done. I don't need any of these yet, it just means I don't have to wait once I'm done painting. I flop down at the table, put my paint object in the spray box, put on my dust mask and eye protection, then pick out my paint. Different paints and primers will need different amounts of additives to make them flow well through the brush, and that's something you have to figure out by trial and error. Mix paint and additives in the airbrush cup, pick up the model on whatever stand or skewer I've stuck it to, and spray. I'll periodically check while I'm painting to make sure I'm not getting paint accumulating on the needle tip, and wipe it off with a bunched-off paper towel dampened with airbrush cleaner if I see anything. You don't need to do this if you're using lacquers or enamels, but then you have a host of other issues to deal with. Once I'm done with a particular paint, I immediately put down the model and go clean out the brush. This is the quick version of cleaning - take it to the sink, rinse it with the squirt bottle of cleaner, and knock as much paint out of it before it dries. If I've got paint dried on the side of the airbrush cup, I'll go after it with an old dead paintbrush and some alcohol to scrub it out, since it'll only get tougher to remove as it cures. If you're painting something really huge, you might want to dump and refill your brush before you start to get stuff drying in it, since it'll make cleaning so much more of a pain. Painting itself is done with quick shots from the brush. You want the paint to start the drying process in the air, so it sticks and dries just after it hits the model. If it looks wet on the plastic, you're too close or you're putting on too much paint. If it looks dusty and it's not adhering, you're too far the other way. Acrylics will dry pretty dang quick, so you should be able to handle the thing pretty quickly. Let it sit for a little bit anyway just to be sure, because putting a big fat thumbprint in wet paint is really annoying to fix. When you're done painting, clean your brush first and then tidy up the rest of your work area. Again, dump cleaning solvent into the brush, spray it out into your spray pot (these are all generic, so either buy a cheap one or make one of out an old plastic bottle) until it's clean. You can gently cover the nozzle of your airbrush with cleaning solution in the cup (use something soft, like a paper towel or cotton ball or the like, being very careful not to damage the needle tip) and spray a little - this will backflow the cleaner and help knock more crud out of your nozzle. Once you're not seeing any more paint coming out of the brush, take it apart. Every brush is different, but you should be able to remove at least the needle and nozzle. You'll probably have to wipe the needle clean, again being very careful not to drop it or bend the tip. I recommend putting some cleaner on a paper towel and pulling along the needle towards the point until it's clean. The nozzle is probably really, really tiny, so gently scrub it with the interdental brush or whatever else you use to clean it, and make sure there's absolutely no paint left in it. Be thorough but gentle, because if you scratch the inside of the nozzle, that's just going to build up more and more paint as you work in the future. Finally, brush or swab out the barrel of the brush itself. You shouldn't need to get back into the pressure valve, but there'll be a tube between the paint cup and the nozzle parts that usually has crud in it. Again, gentle but thorough, same reasons. Cleaning the brush is the "hard" part, so now you can let it dry out and pack everything away. It sounds like a lot, but once you get the basics down, you can set up and clean out your brush pretty dang quick. Again, the only places you can really permanently screw up involve bending or scratching metal parts, so even if you don't clean everything perfectly the first time, all you've got is a couple extra chores and not an expensive replacement in your future.
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Jan 4, 2023 21:41
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I impulse ordered this a little while ago and it finally arrived! Exkizer is one of my top 3 favorite mechas, so I more or less had to do it. I’ve not touched a model kit since I was 12, and never one of the modern plamo jobbers. Wish me luck! 
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Jan 4, 2023 23:55
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Moai Ou posted:Those are dry-transfers. Yeah, carefully cut them out, then tape them to where you want them. Then you carefully rub them onto the surface. Slowly lift up the backing paper to see if it fully transferred. I'm not a fan of that tape method. The way I do it is clear scotch tape covering the whole decal, hanging well over one side and only a bit on the other side. The idea is once you think you're done, peel off the short end of tape and the long side acts as a hinge that keeps everything aligned while you notice you missed a spot and need to fold it back down and try harder. That tutorial looks like you're bending the decal backing instead of just the tape, which is probably more secure, but doesn't let you take a peek as easily. I'll throw in my own tip and say to make sure you don't get too excited and tape over a different decal. Dry or wet, the tape will probably pull it right back off the model.
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Jan 5, 2023 04:16
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grassy gnoll posted:My experiences with Volks kits is limited to their scale models, and they are definitely a scale model company and it shows. Within Japan they're a super top-tier hobby shop chain as well, I highly recommend giving their stores a visit if you're ever near one. The one near me has a fairly small selection of actual models but the tools and paints section is like nothing I've ever seen.
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Jan 5, 2023 06:05
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grassy gnoll posted:
You’re a lifesaver. Thank you so much for this, this is exactly what I needed.
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Jan 5, 2023 06:36
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Really enjoyed the RG Nu except for the fin funnels getting them to stick together is a pain.
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Jan 5, 2023 06:52
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Don't stress about bending the needle to much, you can just buy a replacement needle.
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Jan 5, 2023 07:24
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CommunityEdition posted:You’re a lifesaver. Thank you so much for this, this is exactly what I needed. It's all good. Just remember, you had more discreet steps to getting a post out on the internet than it'll take to airbrush a thing.
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Jan 5, 2023 10:07
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Anyone have any opinions on the MG Full-Armor Unicorn? I really want a Unicorn set and from research it seems that the FA version is the best between quality (better than the original versions and absolute boatload of stuff to do) and price (MGEX is £250, absolutely not).
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Jan 5, 2023 11:44
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Pierson posted:Anyone have any opinions on the MG Full-Armor Unicorn? I really want a Unicorn set and from research it seems that the FA version is the best between quality (better than the original versions and absolute boatload of stuff to do) and price (MGEX is £250, absolutely not). The base unicorn in the FA version is exactly the same as the original Ver. Ka except for the leg armor has been modified to increase the movement range slightly. Other than that all the MG Unicorns excluding EX are the exact same model, so the choice is more whether you want some of the weapons or ALL the weapons. RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 12:55
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I'm not really a big 'full armor' guy so that actually makes things a lot easier, thanks. edit; Pulled the trigger on an MG Unicorn (OVA ver.) and some tamiya panel liner and enamel thinner. I have a marker pen but it doesn't feel great and I'm not really happy with how it looks so might as well get the real thing. edit2: If I want to start putting waterslides on rather than setting for the sticker sheets is it recommended to get both softener and setter? I'm seeing conflicting info about what they're both used for. Pierson fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 13:22
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Pierson posted:I'm not really a big 'full armor' guy so that actually makes things a lot easier, thanks. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqVHPBvrDXk&t=319s is a good video about what mark softer and setter do and how to use them. In my experience mark softer is good to have and mark setter is essential for your sanity.
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Jan 5, 2023 17:51
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I preordered the Reaper Spinatia. Already have the Knight Spinatio and the egg on the way. I'm such a sucker for those little guys.
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Jan 5, 2023 22:22
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Pierson posted:edit2: If I want to start putting waterslides on rather than setting for the sticker sheets is it recommended to get both softener and setter? I'm seeing conflicting info about what they're both used for. To summarize: Mark softer/softener is mostly useful if you want to put decals on uneven surfaces. The hard backing on the print generally wants to stay flat but the softer essentially melts the backing a little so the decals conform better. It also removes some of the 'step' on the edge of the decal. The downside is it greatly decreases the window in which the decals are workable so if you can't get them in place in time they start breaking apart. The reward is decals that sit better and look better, the risk is it makes decals harder to work with. Setter basically does the opposite. It hardens up the decal surface making it more resistant to scratches and light wear. If you're the type to handle your models a lot, top coating will provide a much stronger finish, but for light occasional posing mark setter alone is enough. (The thickness of the backing tends to vary depending on the manufacturer. Bandai isn't too bad, so you can mostly get away without softer on Gunpla. Some of the old guard traditional plastic kit makers who haven't changed their methods since the 70s or so tend to have some ridiculously thick backing which is more where the product is aimed at.) RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jan 6, 2023 |
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Jan 6, 2023 08:37
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Im trying to find the knight Spinatio in Europe(Im in NL) and Im having bad luck finding a place. If anyone knows an eu store with the little knight guy I'd appreciate it a lot. 
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Jan 6, 2023 08:48
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Mindblast posted:Im trying to find the knight Spinatio in Europe(Im in NL) and Im having bad luck finding a place. If anyone knows an eu store with the little knight guy I'd appreciate it a lot. I preordered it here.
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Jan 6, 2023 10:48
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oh poo poo they're making the Sisters tactical. https://twitter.com/30msisters/status/1611294035800641538?s=20&t=_ZzIkq7Y6Ot7wAnrF6g2lA
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Jan 6, 2023 14:43
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Gripweed posted:oh poo poo they're making the Sisters tactical. I respect the tactically-fashionable half-helmet so they can look good showing off their elaborately-styled hair on the battlefield while deflecting incoming headshots.
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Jan 6, 2023 14:54
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Finished my last EG. Now I'm ready to move on to HGs.  Also a bit more of a wackier pose.
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Jan 7, 2023 16:44
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First gunpla after like twenty years and it feels really good to be building again. Just the basic panel line and some topcoat to start with. Wasn't a big fan of how the gundam panel marker feels or looks so I've grabbed some tamiya accent liner and cleaner for future sets. Between the gorilla arms, prehensile whip-spike and massive unbalancing mace the Barbatos L.R. is a weird as hell suit, it definitely feels like it needs a good action base to pose well. The biggest annoyance I have is nub marks on the black frame, it felt like even sanding down, polishing a bit then a light wash still left identifiable nub areas behind. Is it a problem with my sanding (the sticks I got are admittedly cheap as hell and I kind of regret the £10 I spent on a pack of twenty of various grades) or is it something you need to paint over to truly get rid of? I have an RG Sazabi I don't want to start until I have more confidence and I for-sure don't want any crap on it. I'm thinking about painting but I really don't have the room for an airbrush setup, does anyone paint using regular brushes/cans?
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Jan 7, 2023 18:40
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