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Sundae posted:Not the OP for this, but this made me think. My condo has the reverse, but all throughout the house. Cold water comes out low-pressure from every tap, but hot water pressure is fine (and high-temp, too). We have a standard gas hot water tank/heater, nothing special, and my understanding is that the refill on that should be coming from the same general water source as the cold water, at least to fill the tank. As such, shouldn't the pressures be the same? Or (I haven't tried this) is it going to peter out to the same pressure once the tank level runs down and refill rate matches drain rate? Where is the hot water heater located?
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Jan 4, 2023 00:46
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StormDrain posted:Where is the hot water heater located? In the garage on lowest level. It's a three-floor condo.
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Jan 4, 2023 04:02
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It’s probably due to how the pipes are sized and you likely have either too small a pipe feeding the cold somewhere. Or they didn’t use a smaller pipe further down the line, or you need an expansion tal or a pressure tank or something. When I moved my hot water heater to my back laundry room I used some existing lines that went out there, and as it turns out they were under sized. The problem that this created was that is anyone used water elsewhere in the house the hot water pressure would take a nose dive. When I was doing renovations last year I had them put in larger pipes to and from as well as add a pressure tank to keep the hot water pressure up. It’s glorious now.
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Jan 4, 2023 04:11
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Back to dishwasher chat: Is it better to wait and pay the extra $$ for a Bosch 800 that has an available time of “TBD,” or go with a 500? 300? We’re getting quoted 50% of the cost of a Bosch 500 to do some repairs to a leaky Whirlpool that came with the house and is likely 15 years old. I could bring the cost down by getting my own parts and DIY’ing, but that’s bandwidth I don’t really have given we have a kid inbound. Thinking it’s better to buy new and get the warranty rather than putting another few hundred into repairing an older appliance and risking that the fix wouldn’t take anyway.
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Jan 4, 2023 18:26
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Been extremely happy with our Bosch 500 we got about 4 years ago. No regrets not splashing out more for the 800.
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Jan 4, 2023 18:32
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Enos Cabell posted:Been extremely happy with our Bosch 500 we got about 4 years ago. No regrets not splashing out more for the 800. Jesus christ...  Are they that much better than the $400 Samsung and Frigidaire models?
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Jan 4, 2023 19:46
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Holy poo poo that's what I paid for a Benchmark series just pre pandemic.
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Jan 4, 2023 19:48
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Sundae posted:Jesus christ... Subjective. The 400 dollar Frigidaire will do its job, but it has a plastic tub, no 3rd rack, it's much louder, and has less cycle features. You may or may not care about those things. I care most about noise, I have one of those open floorplan houses and some ADD audio processing poo poo going on and I barely deal with my 44db dishwasher if it's ran while I'm awake. We usually run it in the middle of the night though. I have the nicest Whirlpool dishwasher they made 5 years ago (the *970*model) and I've been happy with it, but the comparable current model is also 1100 bucks from Home Depot right now so I'd take the Bosch over it.
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Jan 4, 2023 20:05
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Sundae posted:Jesus christ... I got the 300 series being delivered and installed tomorrow for $999. I figured I was doing well to find something that was actually available in a reasonable timeframe. That said, I don't yet have an install window for tomorrow so it's entirely possible that I'm not actually getting poo poo. 
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Jan 4, 2023 20:51
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Sundae posted:Not the OP for this, but this made me think. My condo has the reverse, but all throughout the house. Cold water comes out low-pressure from every tap, but hot water pressure is fine (and high-temp, too). We have a standard gas hot water tank/heater, nothing special, and my understanding is that the refill on that should be coming from the same general water source as the cold water, at least to fill the tank. As such, shouldn't the pressures be the same? Or (I haven't tried this) is it going to peter out to the same pressure once the tank level runs down and refill rate matches drain rate? I would look at the hot water line sizes into and out of the tank, and compare it to the size of the cold water lines (provided you can see any of them). The next thing to do, if you don't notice a significant size discrepancy, is to start searching for restrictions. Generally the hot water will be less pressure (slightly) than the cold, because it has to go through the tank before reaching the fixture, which causes a pressure drop. Is this problem applicable to every fixture in your condo? And if so, do any of the fixtures have their cold water supply takeoff before the hot water tank? My thought, if the line sizes are similar, is that you have *something* reducing pressure to your fixtures. The steps above are just an attempt to locate the restriction - based on what you've described and if it's the same at all fixtures, your water line probably comes in, goes to your HWT, and then out to the rest of the fixtures on the cold side. Sometimes pressure reducing devices are installed if the supply pressure is really high (if you live at the bottom of a hill compared to where the booster station is for the watermain, you can wind up with some pretty crazy pressures). Sometimes, there's a shutoff valve installed to kill the cold water to the house without disabling the cold (stupid, but PO gonna PO) - and it may be partially closed. I'd also check that the supply valves on the cold to the fixtures you're having problems with are fully open.
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Jan 4, 2023 21:23
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TrueChaos posted:The cold being far less pressure than the hot is definitely strange, because in theory, your HWT is fed by the same cold water line that leads everywhere else. (I say in theory because there are very strange setups out there, but this *should* be how it is.) Thanks for this (and thanks to the last person too)! All of the fixtures in my condo have this challenge. I know there was an issue in the lawsuit against our developers about water lines not up to code, so I'll check sizes and where the different shutoff valves are / ensure they're open all the way. Just to follow up on two old things that I said I'd find out more about : (1) A third-party oversight group was hired to ensure that the HOA handles the settlement $$$ from the lawsuit against our developers correctly. That's apparently how they're maintaining the NDA aspect of it where the homeowners aren't allowed to know how much KB Homes settled for. (2) I'm fighting with the HOA because our loving PO didn't respond to any of the requests for defects to the unit when it was filed, so nothing from our unit was included in the lawsuit. They also didn't put the lawsuit in the disclosures or include any of the HOA correspondence about it, the realtor representing them claimed to have no knowledge, and the PO has moved back to India. Thanks, fuckers. Whatever repairs I get are going to come out of the leftovers (lmao yeah right) once all the listed damages are prioritized / paid for. Decent bet that they'll still be pending by the time I move out, whenever that ends up being.
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Jan 4, 2023 21:40
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Beef Of Ages posted:I got the 300 series being delivered and installed tomorrow for $999. I figured I was doing well to find something that was actually available in a reasonable timeframe. Update: install window scheduled for tomorrow morning.  On the downside, I turned the hot water valve under the sink off so I could disconnect the water line to the old dishwasher only to discover that the valve has failed (it is not a quarter turn) and, despite being closed, still lets some water through. The existing dishwasher hose was also jankily wrapped with tape and the moment I messed with it, it started to leak. loving Gary, man. Now I've got an emergency plumber visit on the way to replace the valve and make sure everything is good to go for the new dishwasher install in the morning. The truck roll fee is go gently caress yourself high, not that I expected any different. 
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Jan 5, 2023 01:31
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The 600 arrived yesterday. I installed it today. Thing is spooky quiet. You really need the little red dot on the floor to tell you its running. It was slightly louder in the basement, where I was wrapping up with some wiring re-runs (I moved my kitchen sink alcove puck lights to a different circuit than the dishwasher - every time it changed cycle the voltage spike would set off the touch dimmer). The 1984 Kitchenaid it replaced sounded like an industrial trash compactor by comparison.
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Jan 5, 2023 05:41
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How much water did the 1984 dishwasher use? Frankly I’m absolutely amazed that modern dishwashers work so well with like 4 gallons of water. I guess they make up for it in cycle time as my regular dishwasher cycle takes 2.5 hours
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Jan 5, 2023 06:03
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skipdogg posted:How much water did the 1984 dishwasher use? I have a “speed 60” setting that actually takes like 74 minutes instead of 2hr50min and it’s the only time me that doesn’t leave a soapy residue on the dishes. Also I find thatI still need powdered detergent rather than pods.
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Jan 5, 2023 08:25
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skipdogg posted:How much water did the 1984 dishwasher use? Cycle time and the type of soap they are supposed to use. And yeah, it's pretty amazing.
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Jan 5, 2023 14:03
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technology connections has a video about dishwashers it is incredibly educational and insanely boring
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Jan 5, 2023 14:07
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therobit posted:soapy residue on the dishes. Also I find thatI still need powdered detergent rather than pods. Ok, so I thought I was going crazy as it doesn't bother anyone else in the house, and I'm actually in the process of throwing all my plastic cups and bowls away and replacing them with porcelain products instead because they smell like detergent. I heated up some leftovers in a plastic bowl, and all I could smell was dishwasher detergent. Same thing when I poured some lemonade in a small plastic cup we have, just detergent smell, like it's impregnated into the plastic. It's not a bad thing to toss all these mismatched bowls and plastic cups I've had for the last 20 years or whatever and replace them with decent porcelain items, but the soapy residue issue makes sense. Deviant posted:technology connections has a video about dishwashers I think I watched this last time it was linked in this thread, and it actually convinced me to use the dishwasher more than I usually would. I grew up hand washing everything because it's faster, but it uses a ton of water. I still hand wash a lot of items because I'm very particular about some of my nicer cookware (especially the non stick) and my knives, but I do use the dishwasher more than I used to after watching that video. The super concentrated dishwasher detergent is absolute hell on anything aluminum or anodized aluminum. It might say dishwasher safe, but if the coating gets compromised anywhere, even a tiny nick, the detergent will start eating the aluminum and ruin you pan. I ruined quite a few higher end Calphalon pans before I figured that out. Lemon scented stuff is even harsher. Anything aluminum or non stick I just hand wash these days.
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Jan 5, 2023 18:16
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skipdogg posted:I heated up some leftovers in a plastic bowl, and all I could smell was dishwasher detergent. Yeah, I don't heat things in plastic unless it's like a steam fresh bag because that's purpose made and single use. Plastic storage/leftover containers get nasty real quick in microwaves depending on what is in them and how long you leave it in. It's easier to just not.
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Jan 5, 2023 18:26
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Does anyone have any opinions on the best way to monitor and track down energy use in a house? It looks like electric prices have gone up significantly so in the past few years which is spurring me to try and take a look and figure out what I can do to bring the overall cost of our utilities down since we're currently paying about $800/mo for electric and propane (~500 for Electric, ~300 for Propane, both on "budget billing" so it spread the cost out).
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Jan 5, 2023 18:36
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Definitely use glass or something yeah. And new dishwashers really are magic compared to 20 year old stuff
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Jan 5, 2023 18:36
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Tried to go local and called the wholesaler about a Bosch 500. Lead time is 20-28 weeks. Guess I’m hitting up Lowes Depot for a Best Buy.
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Jan 5, 2023 18:50
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Any ideas on how to remove 1/16th inch of the top layer of soil for a 6x25 patch of dirt? Our painters, despite being EPA lead certified, didn't put in maximum effort to clean up all the paint chips. I suppose I could use the shop vac on it (hepa filter with hepa bag), but I didn't know if there was an easier way.
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Jan 5, 2023 19:00
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Comrade Gritty posted:Does anyone have any opinions on the best way to monitor and track down energy use in a house? It looks like electric prices have gone up significantly so in the past few years which is spurring me to try and take a look and figure out what I can do to bring the overall cost of our utilities down since we're currently paying about $800/mo for electric and propane (~500 for Electric, ~300 for Propane, both on "budget billing" so it spread the cost out). I installed a Sense years ago and it's great. Not super accurate for tracking lots of small devices but I can keep an eye on total usage easily and see HVAC usage compared to other big items.
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Jan 5, 2023 19:06
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Comrade Gritty posted:Does anyone have any opinions on the best way to monitor and track down energy use in a house? It looks like electric prices have gone up significantly so in the past few years which is spurring me to try and take a look and figure out what I can do to bring the overall cost of our utilities down since we're currently paying about $800/mo for electric and propane (~500 for Electric, ~300 for Propane, both on "budget billing" so it spread the cost out). The Sense is a good option if you want general usage monitoring. I would want per circuit monitoring, and would probably go with the emporia vue system https://www.emporiaenergy.com/how-the-vue-energy-monitor-works That's a really high utility bill, where are you at where you're using that much electricity and propane? I'm outside San Antonio and we had a really hot summer that kept my 2 HVAC units running almost non stop, and this was my highest bill. 447 bucks and almost 3,000 kWh to keep a 3400 sq ft house cool. The summer bills are rough though, they are more reasonable the rest of the year. Gas is for hot water, heat, cooktop, and my outdoor grill. Oven and dryer are electric. code:
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Jan 5, 2023 19:24
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SpartanIvy posted:I installed a Sense years ago and it's great. Not super accurate for tracking lots of small devices but I can keep an eye on total usage easily and see HVAC usage compared to other big items. skipdogg posted:The Sense is a good option if you want general usage monitoring. I would want per circuit monitoring, and would probably go with the emporia vue system https://www.emporiaenergy.com/how-the-vue-energy-monitor-works Thanks! I'm going to take a look at the emporia system too. To a large extent the price is just due to house size I'm sure, it's got about 5600 sqft of conditioned space and I work from home so it's always in use, but the bill started at roughly ~500 combined and over the last few years has grown to the current ~800, so figured I'd spend some effort in seeing if there's any low hanging fruit for cutting back. It'd also be nice to build up a history of per hour usage so I can see if swapping to time of use billing would be beneficial or hurtful.
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Jan 5, 2023 19:37
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Abyss posted:Any ideas on how to remove 1/16th inch of the top layer of soil for a 6x25 patch of dirt? Our painters, despite being EPA lead certified, didn't put in maximum effort to clean up all the paint chips. I suppose I could use the shop vac on it (hepa filter with hepa bag), but I didn't know if there was an easier way. Did you pay them for lead abatement? Did you test the paint before hand? You don't really "clean up" lead paint - you capture it before it contaminates the ground. If they leaded your soil you need to have an abatement company come out on their dime. They have a bond and insurance for this. You should also report them to the EPA. Or did you wink and nod and nothing was put in writing and you just hoped their lead cert would cover you?
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Jan 5, 2023 19:42
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Comrade Gritty posted:Thanks! I'm going to take a look at the emporia system too. What's your actual usage? In units, not dollars, so we can get a sense of what you're actually using and whether it's crazy local prices or just an assload of electric/propane. ngl 5600 sqft is a shitload of space, that's going to cost a lot to heat/cool. What are your major appliances running on? How old are they? Are you running a heat pump and having to turn on emergency heat? Propane refrigerator? Electric water heater? etc. etc. Not sure you necessarily need per-circuit monitoring if you haven't already taken some common sense steps or otherwise just figured out what COULD be causing the issue. That and your major appliances are going to be the biggest draws, so monitoring your bedroom lights isn't going to tell you a whole lot. Your utility might also offer free energy audits.They'll poke around with a thermal camera to see if there are gaps in insulation (or literal gaps) that are causing issues with your HVAC, as well as offer any other suggestions for reducing consumption. Comrade Gritty posted:It'd also be nice to build up a history of per hour usage so I can see if swapping to time of use billing would be beneficial or hurtful. Is this some weirdo utility state where you get charged more certain times of day? Because otherwise "budget" billing is not saving you any money, it's just evenly dividing your bill over 12 months. You're still paying for what you use, just maybe not right away. DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 19:56
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skipdogg posted:Subjective. The 400 dollar Frigidaire will do its job, but it has a plastic tub, no 3rd rack, it's much louder, and has less cycle features. You may or may not care about those things. e: I had to get the ADA-compliant 23" one because of installation issues. It can still easily handle a full day's dishes for a family of three who all eat at home. We got an 800 because the third rack for utensils is a game-changer. Do not, if you have a choice, get the sleek one whose controls are hidden on the top lip of the door. Why? Because it's nice to see how far into the cycle you are. Get external controls like God intended. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 20:06
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Arsenic Lupin posted:This is why the Bosch was worth grotesquely big money and a 7-month wait to me. I can start the dishwasher after supper, then sit back down at the kitchen table and keep talking to my family. It's amazing. I've also nearly never had a dish come out with food stuck to it. The 300 comes with a 3rd rack for utensils FYI, that’s what I have and it’s great. Can’t go wrong if you spend more though  e: oh it appears only the non-ADA 300 has the 3rd rack. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 20:20
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Comrade Gritty posted:Thanks! I'm going to take a look at the emporia system too. You can also use a Kill-A-Watt meter to test individual plug in items if you are curious. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...DhoCQWQQAvD_BwE I didn't realize how cheap these were and I might pick one up just for fun.
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Jan 5, 2023 20:25
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DaveSauce posted:What's your actual usage? In units, not dollars, so we can get a sense of what you're actually using and whether it's crazy local prices or just an assload of electric/propane. This is what PECO says I've used per month for the last year:  I don't have a similar graph or insight into propane other than going off of deliveries, it appears I get about 1200 gallons of propane delivered roughly every year. Major Appliances: - (2) HVAC Systems Furnace+Air, Heat uses Propane installed in 2017. - (1) Tankless Water Heater, uses Propane, installed in 2021. - (1) Dryer, uses Propane, installed in 2018? or so. - (1) Whole Home Generator, uses Propane, installed in 2021 (used once for a day so far, other than turning on for 2 minutes every other week for a self test). - (2) Electric Ovens (first one used 1-2 times a week, second one used a few times a year) - (1) Electric Range (used 1-2 times a week) - (1) Dishwasher (Bosch 800, used once a day) - (1) Fridge in House, installed in 2018 or so. - (1) Fridge + (1) Freezer in garage, installed in 2022. DaveSauce posted:
Yea, I'm sure a large % (and maybe all) of it is just a big house with people home all day so we never get to realize any away from home energy savings, and I'm mostly just looking to see if I can find some low hanging fruit to reduce. If not then that'll just be what it is. DaveSauce posted:
I'll look into the energy audit thing and see if that comes up with anything. Sorry I mentioned budget billing just to indicate that the $500/mo electric isn't just this months expenses, since it's spreading the higher load in the summer over the winter months as well, not that I thought it saved me money. I live in PA, which means while I'm locked into PECO for transmission, I have a choice between multiple suppliers for generation. I'm currently on a fixed price per kwh hour plan, but I have the option to move to time of use billing where there is a steep discount for use outside of peak hours, but peak hours have a steep price rise. Unfortunately I don't have any way to know currently if most of my energy use occurs during peak hours or outside of peak hours to do the math to see if the steep discount makes up for the steep premium or not.
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Jan 5, 2023 20:28
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You uhh just have a big house I guess and use a lot of electricity. Do you have any other non-appliances that are on all the time and use a lot of power? Electric baseboard heat, heated electric floors, a rack of bitcoin miners, something like that? I've got 2100SF in Colorado and at it's peak I'm at 933kWh and visually it looks like I average around 600kWh. I had a heat pump installed in May so that's why electricity is up a lot, the gas dropped a lot in November and I think it'll be similarly lower in the next few months since I got a new water heater as well which are both more efficient than what they replaced. I keep the heat around 68 and my wife turns it up to 70 as she needs, we run a few little heaters in the house if we just want a room warmer. I run the air conditioning around 74-76 when I'm home in the summer.
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Jan 5, 2023 20:45
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H110Hawk posted:Did you pay them for lead abatement? Did you test the paint before hand? You don't really "clean up" lead paint - you capture it before it contaminates the ground. If they leaded your soil you need to have an abatement company come out on their dime. They have a bond and insurance for this. You should also report them to the EPA. It was not abatement, it was encapsulation with acrylic caulk & latex paint. We did have an official lead tester come out and use the xrf gun which showed that the house had lead paint on the exterior trim, fascia, and windows. We confirmed their EPA certification (expiration 08/04/2027), they stated they would put down drop cloths and do minimal scraping. We didn't do any testing for the soil, the house was built in 1956. I don't think anything on the work order specified the lead, but we had many conversations with the contractor. I suppose that's naivety on my part, thinking that if you were one of the few in the area to be lead renovation certified, you'd do a decent job at it. They offered to shop vac the paint chips up but stated that they couldn't possibly get them all. I'll see what I have to do to put in a report with the EPA.
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Jan 5, 2023 21:02
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Edit Wrong thread
Virginia Slams fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jan 6, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 21:09
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Abyss posted:It was not abatement, it was encapsulation with acrylic caulk & latex paint. We did have an official lead tester come out and use the xrf gun which showed that the house had lead paint on the exterior trim, fascia, and windows. We confirmed their EPA certification (expiration 08/04/2027), they stated they would put down drop cloths and do minimal scraping. We didn't do any testing for the soil, the house was built in 1956. I don't think anything on the work order specified the lead, but we had many conversations with the contractor. I suppose that's naivety on my part, thinking that if you were one of the few in the area to be lead renovation certified, you'd do a decent job at it. They offered to shop vac the paint chips up but stated that they couldn't possibly get them all. I'll see what I have to do to put in a report with the EPA. Yeah if the paper didn't explicitly say leaded paint then you're back to whatever your local regulations are for painting. Were you required to get a permit? Did you? If you weren't required to you can try calling the city. Check their bond and insurance status. Does their epa license require them to take any actions they failed to take? Did you, in writing (text, email) tell them about the lead? Did they acknowledge it? You may have just learned a very expensive lesson unfortunately. If this is all "on you" then I guess call an abatement company or get to shoveling. A skilled mini ex operator could shave the top few inches off your yard. An unskilled one could shave the top 12-18". What's clean fill cost around you? If it's in grass you can pretty easily potentially shovel the grass from the roots into bags.
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Jan 5, 2023 21:46
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H110Hawk posted:Yeah if the paper didn't explicitly say leaded paint then you're back to whatever your local regulations are for painting. Were you required to get a permit? Did you? If you weren't required to you can try calling the city. Check their bond and insurance status. Does their epa license require them to take any actions they failed to take? Did you, in writing (text, email) tell them about the lead? Did they acknowledge it? We weren't required to get a permit, neither of the companies we talked to for estimates discussed permits with us. The company that did the lead paint test was the most lax about the result, just a casual, "don't eat the paint." I'll probably just start shop vac'ing the lawn and go from there. We intend to cover up the affected soil with artificial turf or rubber tiles eventually. We have texts between us talking about the chips and thought their lead safe procedures would mitigate that and their response was "we tried but can't get them all." I've sent that and some other pictures to the EPA for an official complaint, but who knows what will come of it. We did a ton of research and reached out to a lot of people. Of the EPA two contractors for this work in my area, I felt like one was giving me a "don't waste my time' quote and the other was high but reasonable. Disappointing that this is the result, but we'll learn from our mistakes.
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Jan 5, 2023 22:40
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Abyss posted:We weren't required to get a permit, neither of the companies we talked to for estimates discussed permits with us. The company that did the lead paint test was the most lax about the result, just a casual, "don't eat the paint." I'll probably just start shop vac'ing the lawn and go from there. We intend to cover up the affected soil with artificial turf or rubber tiles eventually. We have texts between us talking about the chips and thought their lead safe procedures would mitigate that and their response was "we tried but can't get them all." I've sent that and some other pictures to the EPA for an official complaint, but who knows what will come of it. We did a ton of research and reached out to a lot of people. Of the EPA two contractors for this work in my area, I felt like one was giving me a "don't waste my time' quote and the other was high but reasonable. Disappointing that this is the result, but we'll learn from our mistakes. Is there a specific reason that you are worried about these lead particles? Young children, a vegetable garden, etc? If not, I hate to be "that guy" but this is really not something I would lose a ton of sleep over. Lead is bad, yes, but generally it is worse on the interior of a dwelling, is actively being "shed" through either degraded paint or demolition, and there are high-risk individuals (i.e., small children) who are present. There are a lot of home ownership things that I worry about but some leaded paint chips in the soil outside is very, very far down the list. I'm not trying to be cavalier to your situation, but while lead Is A Bad Thing, like asbestos, the specific situation should be taken into account.
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Jan 5, 2023 23:03
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skybolt_1 posted:Is there a specific reason that you are worried about these lead particles? Young children, a vegetable garden, etc? If not Which is great if you live in the house in perpetuity. Don't poison the soil and then just hope no child ever goes and plays in the now-finely-ground-lead-paint-dirt. Or the kid helps you dig a vegetable garden (breathing the dust) and then eats the veggies. Abyss posted:We weren't required to get a permit You checked with your city on this? Or accepted a contractors word on it? Either way, a shovel will get it done perfectly.
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Jan 5, 2023 23:13
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skybolt_1 posted:Is there a specific reason that you are worried about these lead particles? Young children, a vegetable garden, etc? If not, I hate to be "that guy" but this is really not something I would lose a ton of sleep over. Lead is bad, yes, but generally it is worse on the interior of a dwelling, is actively being "shed" through either degraded paint or demolition, and there are high-risk individuals (i.e., small children) who are present. There are a lot of home ownership things that I worry about but some leaded paint chips in the soil outside is very, very far down the list. I have a 2 year old and a 6 month old, otherwise you're right that it wouldn't be a huge deal. It was the big reason why we even considered painting over the current paint - to mitigate the chipping and alligator'ing that the previous owners had not addressed, because they had never tested and didn't know. I'm trying to mitigate all the risks at the moment. My kids don't play outside much in the winter, thankfully, so we have time to get some stuff resolved.
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Jan 5, 2023 23:17
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