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Serperoth
Feb 21, 2013




GreenBuckanneer posted:

edit:

related to this video, people saying they got a lot of progress or good feelings from painting with others, and I agree, the last time I did this (last year), I did this guy in about 2? hours and I had a lot of fun with it

That's how I tend to paint too, I do it as kind of a hangout at the local game store. We borrow paints, feedback is instant, and it's nice to be able to have a second eye around for both opinions, and seeing something cool they do. The friend working there is much more experienced than us newbies (myself, the 20-yo guy who gave me the gnoll, and the 9-yo kid who's really nice), so it's a bit like a teaching class.

Speaking of the gnoll, finished up the base colours I think. I wasn't sure about the bronze under the more silver-y armour but I like it, the last one looked odd so I did it in brown so it's part of the belt. Do ignore the dab of paint on the mace, I only noticed it after taking the pictures and it will be fixed. Really pleased with the eyes, it's not quite white+pupil but I'll take it for now.

I'm thinking of a medium wash rather than darkening her down too much, then using the highlights for some cool stuff, getting the loincloth and hair to pop a little bit more. The mini was some 3D printed promo he got at a con so detail isn't amazing, but it's mostly noticeable with the harness on the back.

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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
Cross post from the Heresy thread!

Electric Hobo posted:

I painted! Alpha Legion Tartaros Librarian, and a Tartaros Command Squad. I'm trying to keep the time I spend on each pretty low. There are just so, so, many marines to paint.



Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

I love the colouring choices on those, so eye-catching.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
A lot of good minis getting posted ITT

Turbinosamente
May 29, 2013

Lights on, Lights off

Lumpy posted:

A lot of good minis getting posted ITT

Gimme a couple days to finish it and I can post a bad one to balance out the thread.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Serperoth posted:

Yeah you're right, I can't even read the text on the shoulderpad :v:

It mostly just says "If you can read this, you're too close" over and over again.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Kids these days, always on their phones




Still loving making Weird Little Guys.

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
I love you making weird little guys, and am inspired to make weird little guys, also.

nostrata
Apr 27, 2007

Your weird little guys are quite fantastic, please continue sharing them.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

AndyElusive posted:

Speaking of Plasma...

I called it a day on the last member of my five-man Deathwatch Hellblaster combat squad tonight:




I struggled a little with this guy after a Darktide-induced break of two weeks at the end of December and hopefully it doesn't show too much. :sweatdrop:

Fantastic work- quoting in case I get ambitious and can look back

The French Army
Mar 28, 2013

:france: Honneur et Patrie :france:


It's layoff season which means time to get back to work on models. I'm picking back up where I left off on my Thunderhawk Gunship. Today I finished painting the cockpit interior and assembled it. Tomorrow it'll go into the fuselage and then I can start working on one of the neat details: the ventral hatch will be open with Primaris marines climbing out and rapelling down to the surface. Originally this was supposed to hide the flying base but the model ended up too heavy to be supported by a thin steel rod.

Anyway, pics. There's a little something extra among the display panels that might not be a loss for the keen eyed.









GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm either done, or close to done with Munitorum Armoured Containers

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'm either done, or close to done with Munitorum Armoured Containers



How did you glue the containers? I have had the worst loving luck trying to get the first one of them to actually take glue and hold its shape long enough for it to take. I've tried Loctite and Tamiya Extra Thin and the fucker just keeps collapsing.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

rantmo posted:

How did you glue the containers? I have had the worst loving luck trying to get the first one of them to actually take glue and hold its shape long enough for it to take. I've tried Loctite and Tamiya Extra Thin and the fucker just keeps collapsing.

I used tamiya extra thin, but also I poured out my extra citadel cement into what was left over from tamiya so I could continue using the brush instead of that awful thing, it shouldn't make a difference in the glue, I don't think?

Basically I did everything but the door, adding generous amounts of glue on the contact points, then used very stiff rubber bands to hold the son of a bitch in place. Just be careful of those little eagle things

I then went to bed and painted it the next day (after gluing the doors on)

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



I have not tried rubber bands yet, I'll have to give that a go. I think this first crate might just be hosed though, there's so much failed glue on the edges, I don't think it will ever hold.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

rantmo posted:

I have not tried rubber bands yet, I'll have to give that a go. I think this first crate might just be hosed though, there's so much failed glue on the edges, I don't think it will ever hold.

You can just continue to add more glue, or, cut some thin sprue bits and shove it, and glue, in the gaps

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





rantmo posted:

How did you glue the containers? I have had the worst loving luck trying to get the first one of them to actually take glue and hold its shape long enough for it to take. I've tried Loctite and Tamiya Extra Thin and the fucker just keeps collapsing.

Testors plastic glue works pretty good on these, it is a little thicker than Tamiya Extra Thin. It is helpful to have it set up so you are going to have all 4 sides glued at the same time. One hobby tool that is really helpful is clamps, so if you have some clamps those can be really helpful. Legos are also very helpful for using with a clam to get square joints, for other projects. Lego's have incredibly tight tolerances so whenever I am working on wooden ship kits and need perfect squares for frames and ribs and whatnot a 2 by 2 by 2 lego brick does the trick.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I print my containers at work

Angry Lobster
May 16, 2011

Served with honor
and some clarified butter.
I've bought a second hand army, Grey Knights, and I started painting a couple strike marines as test dudes. They are literly my first 40k models ever and I have questbon, what's the best approach to paint the armor?

I used a leadbelcher spraycan as primer and base coat, heavy drybrush of iron hands steel, drakenhoff shade and another drybrush with necron compound. While the result looks fine enough, I'm not sure if I should have primed first with a black spray instead.

Bad Decision Dino
Aug 3, 2010

We'll invade Russia.

Angry Lobster posted:

I've bought a second hand army, Grey Knights, and I started painting a couple strike marines as test dudes. They are literly my first 40k models ever and I have questbon, what's the best approach to paint the armor?

I used a leadbelcher spraycan as primer and base coat, heavy drybrush of iron hands steel, drakenhoff shade and another drybrush with necron compound. While the result looks fine enough, I'm not sure if I should have primed first with a black spray instead.

Your proces sounds perfectly reasonable, and I can't think of a reason why you'd want to prime black first as long as you're happy with the results.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
My shades of blue are here, time to get to work

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
Silver metallics can look slightly shinier over gloss black but that somewhat depends on the paint you're using. Some of them really benefit from a gloss black undercoat and other's don't.

A metallic primer shouldn't need a black undercoat because it's a primer, it's designed to be the base layer.


Likewise: Gold and bronze are easier to paint over a dark brown basecoat.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

PoptartsNinja posted:

Likewise: Gold and bronze are easier to paint over a dark brown basecoat.

This is my top “Things you wished you knew when you first started painting”. So much time spent trying to get a gold base when it goes down in one on top of brown.

Angry Lobster
May 16, 2011

Served with honor
and some clarified butter.

PoptartsNinja posted:

Silver metallics can look slightly shinier over gloss black but that somewhat depends on the paint you're using. Some of them really benefit from a gloss black undercoat and other's don't.

A metallic primer shouldn't need a black undercoat because it's a primer, it's designed to be the base layer.


Likewise: Gold and bronze are easier to paint over a dark brown basecoat.

I asked because I heard many people on other sites claiming you shouldn't use the metallic sprays as primers, especifically the retribution armor spray, and I was curious if people also considered this for leadbelcher/silver.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I mostly don’t like how expensive they are

Two Beans
Nov 27, 2003

dabbin' on em
Pillbug

Angry Lobster posted:

I asked because I heard many people on other sites claiming you shouldn't use the metallic sprays as primers, especifically the retribution armor spray, and I was curious if people also considered this for leadbelcher/silver.

If you're applying it to plastic, ret armour spray is fine. GW even recommends it for the first step painting rubric marines and custodes in their youtube videos.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Angry Lobster posted:

I've bought a second hand army, Grey Knights, and I started painting a couple strike marines as test dudes. They are literly my first 40k models ever and I have questbon, what's the best approach to paint the armor?

I used a leadbelcher spraycan as primer and base coat, heavy drybrush of iron hands steel, drakenhoff shade and another drybrush with necron compound. While the result looks fine enough, I'm not sure if I should have primed first with a black spray instead.

prime black like every other kind of model
slather this stuff all over the model https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Exhaust-Manifold-Metal-Color32ml/dp/B012A94HSE/
paint in details and highlights

Done.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Professor Shark posted:

This is my top “Things you wished you knew when you first started painting”. So much time spent trying to get a gold base when it goes down in one on top of brown.

One I wish I'd learned earlier:

Thin metallics with gloss medium, never water.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Just something to point out but metallics are very influenced by the underlying layer of paint. That's why you don't put metallics over white while black gives you what the paint is supposed to look like. You can also put metallic over various colours to influence the outcome (gold over green gives you a very nice, baroque gold).

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Since I switched to Vallejo metal color i've had a vastly easier time painting steel colors and love the results with how little effort it requires compared to the GW metals I used when first starting. The thin, watery nature of them is very useful when base coating and it just takes a little bit of wiping the paint off on your palette or back of your hand when you're doing highlights with them

I vastly recommend this set as it'll cover everything you need and it'll look amazing
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylicos-Vallejo-VJP77602-Model-Color/dp/B07T6C6FYV/ref

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.
Does Vallejo have a good replacement for iron warriors paint?

Bad Decision Dino
Aug 3, 2010

We'll invade Russia.

Lucinice posted:

Does Vallejo have a good replacement for iron warriors paint?

I don't have Iron Warriors, so I can't make a direct comparison, but try 77.720 Vallejo Metal Color Gunmetal Grey

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm running out of leadbelcher, finally, so I'll probably just go with my single VMC I own, duralrillium or however it's spelled. I don't think the color matches though. Same with pro acrylic silver.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Duraluminum is way too bright. Gunmetal or steel from vmc matches leadbelcher

Serperoth
Feb 21, 2013




Eej posted:

Just something to point out but metallics are very influenced by the underlying layer of paint. That's why you don't put metallics over white while black gives you what the paint is supposed to look like. You can also put metallic over various colours to influence the outcome (gold over green gives you a very nice, baroque gold).

As an experiment, I tried metallic over a teal (Elemental Bolt I think) and it made the sword look much more vibrant than just metal over black or grey. It doesn't tint the whole thing, but the tiny bit of teal peeking through minute gaps in coverage, or where the particles line up just right makes it pop that much more.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Spanish Manlove posted:

Duraluminum is way too bright. Gunmetal or steel from vmc matches leadbelcher

I'll check it out, thanks!

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
So what I'm reading here about metallics is if, at some point in the future, I were hypothetically considering doing a Necron army whose primary color is gold instead of normal metallic silver I should prime in black then do a base coat in brown?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
That's a lot of steps when you can just smother the whole thing in Vince venturella's gold recipe that's a mix of Vallejo metal color gold, copper, and gold pigment. You can be so much more lazy in the application of it than having to base everything in brown then redo it in gold again.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

bird food bathtub posted:

So what I'm reading here about metallics is if, at some point in the future, I were hypothetically considering doing a Necron army whose primary color is gold instead of normal metallic silver I should prime in black then do a base coat in brown?

I would simply get an airbrush so I can play with undertones like this


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgJqjIMd6k8

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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!
I haven't tried Vallejo Metal Colour but I picked up an old pot of their Liquid Copper, which us an alcohol based metallic, and it's made doing the 100s of little plates and electronics on the Gallowdark terrain really fun and satisfying.

As someone said above for VMC, it covers extremely well in a single coat but even better the alcohol self levels and flows to corners really nicely at the same time.

I'm not even bothering getting spirits to thin/clean the brushes with, I just bought a pack of cheap ones, dip them straight in the pot and go to town, then dry wiping them clean when they get too gunked up.

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