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I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around?
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Jan 12, 2023 09:27
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someusername posted:I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around? Having no idea your level of familiarity or skill at anything having to do with anything let's start with this: have you checked the level and condition of the transmission fluid?
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Jan 12, 2023 15:22
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I have a 2012 Prius that had the cat converter stolen back in December. Had it towed to a shop that said they were getting a shipment in last week and they called me yesterday to say “sorry our order was cancelled they told us it’s on 6 month back order”. Working through calling every shop in LA right now, but anyone have any other creative ideas for how I can get a working vehicle before July?
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Jan 12, 2023 15:33
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ScooterMcTiny posted:I have a 2012 Prius that had the cat converter stolen back in December. Had it towed to a shop that said they were getting a shipment in last week and they called me yesterday to say “sorry our order was cancelled they told us it’s on 6 month back order”. Working through calling every shop in LA right now, but anyone have any other creative ideas for how I can get a working vehicle before July? I don't know what emissions tests you are regularly exposed to, but you could slap a "test pipe" or just a straight piece of tube to fill the hole where the converter was and ignore the CEL until the part comes in. Being California, that may or may not be more illegal than just stealing someone else's cat. legit shops might not be willing to do it. You can search for each of the individual part numbers for CARB compliant cats here and maybe find one in stock somewhere. https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/AftermarketParts/catalysts e: Stillen of all people seem to have one in stock. https://stillen.com/collections/exhaust/products/magnaflow-conv-df-2010-2015-prius-l4-1-8-oem-underbody-52456 You could confirm with the mechanic that it's the right part, and confirm with Stillen that they actually have it before ordering. someusername posted:I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around? Firstly, check the fluid level with the engine running and the van parked on flat ground. If the behaviour changes before the fluid warms up, it could be an internal fluid leak. You can check the flash codes by turning the key on and off 3 times ending in the on position and count the CEL flashes. a bad throttle position sensor or speed control sensor could also be telling the transmission to kick down. https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-1980s-1990s-chrysler-computer-codes.229009/ Powershift fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 15:52
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Gotta give credit: Is it 4wd? The wheel angle sensor reports to a 4wd module in the center console. This device is shared with the abs module. Shared resources can be suspect. The G sensor is also in the center console. The brake switch is a single unit with two contacts inside. One set of contacts is shared with cruise. Things I'd check for. The ground left of the blower motor relevant to the chassis. Use your dvom in volts mode and compare that ground against the battery - terminal. There are 2 fusible links and 4 main fuses. Usually the fusible links are there for the abs motor power. They're known to age-fail. All of the logic electronics within this module is likely going to hang off of fuse 38 and for memory power off of 31. You'll probably need some kind of probe to test power condition at the abs module Same with probing the abs wheel sensors. All of them are throwing codes which tells me one of two things. There's a harness chafing on the body somewhere or there's a power supply within the abs module failing to deliver clean power at the required parameters. Since the ABS shares resources with the 4wd system and cruise those parts can be cross tested via operating those systems and checking their respective codes. someusername posted:I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around? Start with what Motronic suggested. If the fluid is dark replace it though it may be too late. Pretty sure that's an era of chryco that still requires band adjustments. The adjustment hardware are external to the transmission. Don't get it wrong. ScooterMcTiny posted:I have a 2012 Prius that had the cat converter stolen back in December. Had it towed to a shop that said they were getting a shipment in last week and they called me yesterday to say “sorry our order was cancelled they told us it’s on 6 month back order”. Working through calling every shop in LA right now, but anyone have any other creative ideas for how I can get a working vehicle before July? Call around in a greater radius. May need to bolt a temp pipe on to get the car there. If you go out to Hemet or whatever you'll probably find the missing catalyst.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:01
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cursedshitbox posted:Is it 4wd? No it's 2wd. Do you know how much all of that applies given that? Fuse wise, I tested every fuse below the driver's side of the dash and then the fuse box in the engine compartment. Are there other fuses somewhere?
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Jan 12, 2023 16:07
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Motronic posted:Having no idea your level of familiarity or skill at anything having to do with anything let's start with this: have you checked the level and condition of the transmission fluid? Thanks, I'll have a looksee this weekend. It's not a daily driver anymore thankfully.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:55
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I've got a 2014 vw beetle. There's a piece of grey trim on the bumper that is coming undone repeatedly. It's not coming all the way out and falling out (the left part is fine) but it's annoying. Is this something I could fix myself? The dealer re-attached it but it popped loose again. I'm guessing there's a clip or something for it that secures it. They quoted me 2k to bring it to a bodyshop and get a new insert which I'd prefer not to do. I don't think it's necessarily in danger of coming off completely right now but it still sucks
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Jan 12, 2023 18:41
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Ginette Reno posted:I've got a 2014 vw beetle. There's a piece of grey trim on the bumper that is coming undone repeatedly. It's not coming all the way out and falling out (the left part is fine) but it's annoying. Is this something I could fix myself? The dealer re-attached it but it popped loose again. I'm guessing there's a clip or something for it that secures it. They quoted me 2k to bring it to a bodyshop and get a new insert which I'd prefer not to do. I'd just re-attach it with some 3M double sided tape behind it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JOVUO0?tag=amsbd07-20 Unless I am not understanding the issue correctly.
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Jan 12, 2023 18:50
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This is a problem begging for a picture to explain it, but there is certainly a less-than-$2k option that should have passable results.
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Jan 12, 2023 21:12
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Nvm
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Jan 12, 2023 21:24
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:No it's 2wd. Do you know how much all of that applies given that? It's one less point you can test. It just mentions those and the fusible links. Has your speedometer been flaking out or any DTCs for that? It's shared with the abs system.
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Jan 12, 2023 22:50
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someusername posted:I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around? You should have this pan if you have a 3/4 ton with OD but it couldn’t hurt to make sure. I have heard of B250s with the lighter duty a904 based transmission but have never seen one.  Some things to keep in mind are that that’s a very early 727 based over drive (a518) and they had teething issues it happened. Almost every problem I have seen with one other than just being worn out has been with the OD which is just a box stuck on the back. For reference the 3 speed vs the 4 speed.  Off the top of my head there is a 3 pin solenoid on the transmission. You’ll want to test that and all the wiring associated with it. It’s been a minute since I delved into 518s but I believe a wonky tps will affect the overdrive and cause similar issues to what you describe. They can physically break and spin on their screw instead of moving the little internal arm and they can just go electrically bad.
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Jan 13, 2023 00:23
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someusername posted:I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around? To add to what everyone else said, are you 100% sure it's 3-4 shifts not converter clutch disengaging? It can feel similar, but often different causes. Try tapping the brake just barely enough to trigger the lights while in "OD", if it does the same exact thing, you're feeling the converter unlocking. Often this is due to a flaky TPS or brake lamp switch. As long as it isn't slipping in either 3 or OD I wouldn't assume this is due to wear. If it's truly 3 or OD not 3 and 3 with converter locked or OD and OD with converter locked, I'd agree on checking the TPS and depending on how that unit was designed, the throttle valve cable or vacuum servo. I can't remember if those were mechanical or "hey we strapped a pressure modulation solenoid and sensor onto a mechanical automatic valve body, now it's electric shift!" Like the later 42/44/46RE.
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Jan 13, 2023 01:39
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I forgot to mention earlier that you need to check that transmissions fluid in neutral. Torqueflite based transmissions do not turn the pump in park.kastein posted:
Should be 3 wire and I think the inputs are tps, speed sensor on the transmission and part throttle unlock. They use a tv cable until 1993-94ish when they went full electronic with the 46re. If you find information on the a500 or a618 some of the electrical is different fyi.
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Jan 13, 2023 02:42
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cursedshitbox posted:It's one less point you can test. It just mentions those and the fusible links. No speedometer issues. I didn't sample codes at other times so I can't say anything directly. The codes that the mechanic has pulled so far were consistent with mine. It looks like I should have tried out cruise control too.
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Jan 13, 2023 04:08
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To program new key fobs on my Mustang, you have to cycle the key from off to start eight times in ten seconds. Who comes up with these ridiculous things? It took me like ten tries.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:35
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Are the VW 2.0 TSI engines that were in cars from ~2016 garbage? I guess carbon buildup is a problem since they are direct injection. Other problems seem to be leaky gaskets, timing chain problems etc. What do goons think?
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Jan 13, 2023 20:08
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smackfu posted:To program new key fobs on my Mustang, you have to cycle the key from off to start eight times in ten seconds. Who comes up with these ridiculous things? It took me like ten tries.
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Jan 13, 2023 20:14
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MrOnBicycle posted:Are the VW 2.0 TSI engines that were in cars from ~2016 garbage? I guess carbon buildup is a problem since they are direct injection. Other problems seem to be leaky gaskets, timing chain problems etc. What do goons think? They seem fine. Do they have the cam follower that the FSI motors have? Every direct injection car will have the carbon buildup so I wouldn't even call it a problem.
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Jan 13, 2023 20:14
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smackfu posted:To program new key fobs on my Mustang, you have to cycle the key from off to start eight times in ten seconds. Who comes up with these ridiculous things? It took me like ten tries. That's approximately how I programmed a spare set of keys to my Mazdaspeed3-- which shared a lot of FoMoCo parts, so it doesn't seem that unusual.
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Jan 13, 2023 23:03
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MrOnBicycle posted:Are the VW 2.0 TSI engines that were in cars from ~2016 garbage? I guess carbon buildup is a problem since they are direct injection. Other problems seem to be leaky gaskets, timing chain problems etc. What do goons think? Well, I wouldn't buy one that hasn't kept up on oil changes. That's a good idea in general but with these engines moreso.
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Jan 14, 2023 00:44
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Wonderllama posted:I'd just re-attach it with some 3M double sided tape behind it. IOwnCalculus posted:This is a problem begging for a picture to explain it, but there is certainly a less-than-$2k option that should have passable results. This isn't my car and I just googled to try and get an image because it's dark out right now so can't get a good picture of mine but in the image below you can kinda see that grey trim below the license plate. For me, that's coming out on the right side. I probably need to get under there and see how it's hooked in. I'm not sure if it's clipped in under there or screwed in or what. It's secured on the left side so I don't think it will come all the way out right now but I'd still like to get it secured without having to completely replace the trim which is what the dealer wants me to do.  If it warms up a little bit I might try to get under there and see if I can figure out how it's attached. The tape that Wonderllama mentioned might be an idea. Ginette Reno fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 03:12
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spankmeister posted:Well, I wouldn't buy one that hasn't kept up on oil changes. That's a good idea in general but with these engines moreso. I have a 2013 TFSI (an Audi A4) engine and it works pretty good. It consumes a hilariously large amount of oil, long story short I had other non-related work done at the dealer and they ran a consumption test for me. Comically it was within limits. I forget the amount from the data but it was just a bit lower than what I was betting. It's been better as of late, I feel like it maybe had a rough life with its PO. Now it's 1 quart every 2k miles or so instead of 1 or 1.5k miles. Fabulous car otherwise. I keep meaning to rent a 3 Series to see how they compare. I get the itch to upgrade my car now and then but the pRiCiNg is eye popping these days. It's up and it's down and it doesn't make any sense. On top of the already insane pricing, I have to be willing to literally immediately eat an asston of asspennies of depreciation for several years later. I think my A4 is going to roll over to 100k soon  kinda wanted to sell it while it still had any meaningful value left in order to upgrade
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 05:02
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MrOnBicycle posted:Are the VW 2.0 TSI engines that were in cars from ~2016 garbage? I guess carbon buildup is a problem since they are direct injection. Other problems seem to be leaky gaskets, timing chain problems etc. What do goons think? My wife's 2017 GTI with the TSI has been trouble free from day 1. I change the oil every 10k miles and that's pretty much it other than tires after 90k miles.
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Jan 14, 2023 05:22
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Stupid Question thread denizens may you please post your fav (most fun?) car model and generation years that you would buy if you had 1: no commute 2: no family to haul somewhat important: 3: Reasonable to acquire using cars.com (or a site like it but I do like cars.com) with a radius of say 100 miles to a USA major metro. Of course I can drive or fly to the Right Deal. I prefer buying from dealer vs. PP but acknowledge this may be difficult if cost is somewhat a factor. 4: Under.... $30k? Can go higher for the Right Deal. It would be amazing to do like <$10k though, I don't care about miles or model year necessarily. And, I would aim to lose less than average car depreciation over a year or two of ownership. Hopefully this is framed as a question for the thread? I will x-post in the Car Buying Thread soon enough but figured why not here in case. Thanks goons. Happy to add any other context that might prompt suggestions but didn't want to make a post too long. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 05:50
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no family to haul, no commute, anything under 30k: a porsche 928 in really nice condition
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Jan 14, 2023 06:39
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Sagebrush posted:no family to haul, no commute, anything under 30k: a porsche 928 in really nice condition  (I of course did not specify Chicago as the metro but as an example, not good availability here lol) This DEFINITELY fits with my criteria though! BTW an MX-5 is also high on the list, but figure I could get a cooler used car for the money.
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Jan 14, 2023 07:00
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I mean a 928 is rad as hell and certainly my dream GT car but I was kind of taking the piss because it's such a vague request. No family to haul and no commute, to me, only means "doesn't have to have 4 seats/doors or be cheap and reliable to operate." Everything else is a possibility. You could be looking at a classic Porsche or a fairly recent Escalade or a tiny little imported Kei car or someone's mega-turbo RX-7 project or a VW bus or a malaise-era Bentley or a deuce-and-a-half or what do you actually want out of your car other than...well it looks like all you've given is a price range, lower than average depreciation, and that it has to be available in Chicago? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 07:07
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Not my car, but a friend's. 2018 VW Atlas. No idea on drivetrain, but it's loaded, LED headlamps as well. He dropped it at the dealer because one headlight was fogging up. There's a small ding right where the fender meets the headlamp. Dealer says that ding cracked the headlight assembly. It looks like a (uh, pretty tall) shopping cart ding to me - no paint transfer, no other damage. They're quoting $1400 to fix. Obviously he refused, and luckily it's still under warranty, so there wasn't any charge for the diagnosis (props to Autohaus VW on that one). He asked me how much of it was bullshit. Obviously the housing is damaged in some way, but.. really, can a shopping cart ding ruin a headlamp assembly? Do these things need to be programmed to the car, or can a used housing go in easily? He's just barely inside of warranty, but they claim they pulled the bumper and found where the ding met the housing. I do know it has LED headlights. I was with him when he picked it up, the service advisor did say it won't do any harm to keep driving it as is, except the lamp might fail earlier from the moisture (which I agree with). Also strongly recommended 2 new tires (which I also agree with, both front tires are bald with date codes that match the rear tires... I educated him on the importance of rotating tires once he replaces the two). Stock photo, but the red is where the ding is.  How full of poo poo were they? I didn't look under the hood, so I have no idea how far back the housings actually go on these. He's fine with putting it off for a bit, so long as the headlamp won't suddenly fail. I don't know much about VW, unfortunately, but the SA did say the fascia needs to come off to replace it. They had video of the fascia semi-removed, and the bracket on that side was NOT broken. smackfu posted:To program new key fobs on my Mustang, you have to cycle the key from off to start eight times in ten seconds. Who comes up with these ridiculous things? It took me like ten tries. Just be glad you can do it yourself. And Fords are pretty easy to enter programming on - Subaru and Toyota have a similar dance, but also involve pedals and buttons. They just want to make sure you don't go into programming unless you really mean it, since most cars erase all fobs once you go into programming. You should see what it takes to toggle the seat belt minder on your Mustang! (and you have to do it for each front seat) Toggling autolock/autounlock is similarly fucky, and toggling the seat belt minder on a Toyota is extra annoying and finicky (it took me 5 or 6 tries, even using a stopwatch). GMs either need a connector buried in the trunk jumped out, or some OBD2 fuckery, and that's just for older ones - newer ones usually need a dealer. Dorman sells a programmer that plugs into the OBD2 port for older OBD2 GMs.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:34 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 08:08
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Sagebrush posted:I mean a 928 is rad as hell and certainly my dream GT car but I was kind of taking the piss because it's such a vague request. No family to haul and no commute, to me, only means "doesn't have to have 4 seats/doors or be cheap and reliable to operate." Everything else is a possibility. You could be looking at a classic Porsche or a fairly recent Escalade or a tiny little imported Kei car or someone's mega-turbo RX-7 project or a VW bus or a malaise-era Bentley or a deuce-and-a-half or Car go fast while wallet remaining relatively as unaffected as possible (beyond obvious unavoidable substantial amounts). That was the point I was trying to get across. It sounds like I was doing it very poorly right? Budget is a little flexible as well due to savings specific for this and financing lightly isn’t too horrendous. Fast cars, cool cars, Porsches, German luxo, Euro sport in general, AMG, M cars, I don’t really care at this phase yet though those are just the kind I know the most about so far. Make sense at all? I like lot of VAG too is what I’m trying to say you feel me? If you can think of a more intelligent accurate way to say all the above go ahead too haha. So like achieving the least damage WHILE DOING controlled damage, since this is going to be a fun car I have budgeted up to a limit. But I completely agree my search is probably too broad to be useful? Escalade is very cool I think, that was decently up there on the list. Competes with Range Rover at its pricing though. Maybe pretend I’m asking about horsepower per dollar even if I’m not, help at all? And it’s a life dream to own a nice cool car that I’d aim to potentially make real by owning during a relatively not horrendous area of the depreciation curve, ideally newer ish but old fine too. Sell after maaaaybe 2 yrs? e: If killhour is out there somewhere he knows what I’m talking about, he’s owned and posted about multiple of the cars in my lists I think ! I goaded him to post more about them but I don’t think he saw and I feel awkward PMing Inner Light fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 08:41
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It’s like I’m looking for a magical top 10 cars that fit lots of preferences I posted about, ranked by most cool or fastest etc etc. it’s probably a stupid question right? I have a few on the list but most local examples were meh or too rare. Or too expensive in vast majority of cases.
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Jan 14, 2023 09:01
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It would probably help if you posted a list of like five or ten cars that you think are especially cool, like maybe those ones you said were too expensive, to get an idea of your preferences. Most of the posters in here, being car aficionados, know exactly what their dream cars would be, and it's a little weird to encounter someone who just wants A Cool Car with no deeper details. The brands you mentioned are all European and I suspect you're thinking of performance sedans. That's fine. But you also said you want maximum horsepower per dollar (which I think is a dumb goal), and European cars aren't the way to do that. Other than going fast, what do you think makes a car cool? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 09:21
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Inner Light posted:Car go fast while wallet remaining relatively as unaffected as possible (beyond obvious unavoidable substantial amounts). That was the point I was trying to get across. It sounds like I was doing it very poorly right? Budget is a little flexible as well due to savings specific for this and financing lightly isn’t too horrendous. On a scale of 1 to 10, how hosed up are you right now?
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Jan 14, 2023 10:52
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tactlessbastard posted:On a scale of 1 to 10, how hosed up are you right now? I was a little, and don't call me Shirley. Sorry for the bad post. I've never felt so judged! But I stand by most of what I said. I will do some thinking on an actual list, so too many words to say "too vague a search right now". At this point I would edit it away in shame but I've been quoted  Sagebrush posted:maximum horsepower per dollar (which I think is a dumb goal) On reflection I agree with you here, can scratch that. Luxury sport sedans then would be where I would finally end up I suppose. But I was seeing if there was anything I was missing a category lower perhaps before diving into the annoyingly expensive world of Audi S4 etc, BMW M3 Comp, and the rest. Thanks folks. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 11:01
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STR posted:Just be glad you can do it yourself. And Fords are pretty easy to enter programming on - Subaru and Toyota have a similar dance, but also involve pedals and buttons. True. Also the replacement remotes were unbelievable cheap on Amazon, $10 for two. There was exactly one design sold by two dozen sellers but kind of amazing it’s that cheap for something that I would hope has decent security. Although it is a 2010 Mustang, so who knows.
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Jan 14, 2023 13:23
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two_beer_bishes posted:My wife's 2017 GTI with the TSI has been trouble free from day 1. I change the oil every 10k miles and that's pretty much it other than tires after 90k miles. spankmeister posted:Well, I wouldn't buy one that hasn't kept up on oil changes. That's a good idea in general but with these engines moreso. VelociBacon posted:They seem fine. Do they have the cam follower that the FSI motors have? Every direct injection car will have the carbon buildup so I wouldn't even call it a problem. Ok thanks! So the normal rules apply then. I'm still a bit weary of DI engines and carbon buildup. I'm considering alternatives to getting a Volvo, and the Skoda Octavia RS seems a good candidate with a ton of space inside and decent horsepower.
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Jan 14, 2023 14:15
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Some VW TSi engines in Europe have dual-mode injection with both port and direct injection. I can’t find immediate documentation on the exact engine model used in the Octavia RS but you might want to poke around a bit more on it. Even for DI engines with carbon buildup problems the issues are mostly around intake valves. Solution is an occasional media blasting. It costs a couple hundred bucks but it’s a once every five years kind of thing.
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Jan 14, 2023 15:08
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Inner Light posted:On reflection I agree with you here, can scratch that. Luxury sport sedans then would be where I would finally end up I suppose. But I was seeing if there was anything I was missing a category lower perhaps before diving into the annoyingly expensive world of Audi S4 etc, BMW M3 Comp, and the rest. I mean, for all this poo poo you've got, it's not wrong to ask opinions, it just seems like you've got no idea what you want and we aren't going to have the same opinion on cars that you will. For instance, I plugged your criteria into autotempest and out of this list of impressive cars I'd stay away from the luxury euro brands and buy the Monte Carlo SS or the clean as hell Fairlady Z Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 15:16
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Is this spark plug due for replacement? 2017 Rav4. Experiencing a slightly rough idle with above average fuel consumption and just trying to diagnose potential issues.
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Jan 14, 2023 16:13
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