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I'm not sure actually - it's kinda incredible how absolutely sideways the dust goes with little drop trajectory. I have some heavy rubber landscape barrier I was going to cut a few strips off of to make an extended collar around the cyclone base - just haven't dug it out of the shed yet. ... Also I never trimmed the bolts at the cyclone base so I can't actually just raise the bucket without, you know, a good 3 minutes of effort first.
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Jan 12, 2023 04:20
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Leperflesh posted:There's also special order options, for example this is 1/8 and 1/16 thickness veneers: Ocooch is my go to for thin hardwoods.  If you want thin plywood for fretwork, look at Michael's (although mine never has anything in stock) or Hobby Lobby.
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Jan 12, 2023 04:34
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What do folks like to use for cabinet face frames? This would be for a personal project, all the Youtubers use poplar. I wasn’t sure how mandatory it was to use hardwood over soft wood for this application. If that is the case, what’s the likely good source for poplar outside of Home Depot or some thing I’m in the north east, but the nearest rockler is too far of a drive to be easy. E: I’m sitting on a nice stock of maple and cherry but it’s too nice for frames that I’ll paint over.
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Jan 12, 2023 13:38
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That Works posted:What do folks like to use for cabinet face frames? This would be for a personal project, all the Youtubers use poplar. I wasn’t sure how mandatory it was to use hardwood over soft wood for this application. If that is the case, what’s the likely good source for poplar outside of Home Depot or some thing I’m in the north east, but the nearest rockler is too far of a drive to be easy. If you're painting it, white pine is fine. Poplar is also.
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Jan 12, 2023 15:35
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That Works posted:What do folks like to use for cabinet face frames? This would be for a personal project, all the Youtubers use poplar. I wasn’t sure how mandatory it was to use hardwood over soft wood for this application. If that is the case, what’s the likely good source for poplar outside of Home Depot or some thing I’m in the north east, but the nearest rockler is too far of a drive to be easy.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:01
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I don't know if you have Menard's in the northeast, but they sell Poplar and other hardwoods. If your cabinet is going to be painted and far away from water could you use MDF? MDF cuts and shapes without any surprises and is very flat and has consistent thickness. There is no grain to conceal. I built some of my garage cabinets out of pine ("Quality" grade from Menards). The cabinets are fine, but pine tends to have outrageous amounts of huge knots and little pockets of sap or pitch.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:12
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PBCrunch posted:I don't know if you have Menard's in the northeast, but they sell Poplar and other hardwoods. I've worked with MDF off and on but not for face frames. I was under the impression that it was not as good at holding screws etc vs the other typical materials choices, is that incorrect? Want to make sure given that the face frames will have all of the hinges etc hung on them and not the cabinet frame since I am probably doing overlay doors.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:16
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I haven't done as much woodworking lately as I've been busy moving my girlfriend in (she has a lot of stuff) but I did carve out a bit of time to make a cabinet/shelf thing to rescue her mineral collection from a bunch of plastic bins where they couldn't be seen. Seems like it turned out alright, though there's a railing in the way that makes it hard to get a photo from an appropriate angle. (Also I haven't gotten around to doing something about the ugly cord and for some reason I didn't close one of them when I took the photos.)   All of the shelves are soft maple and the panels that close them are just 3/32" plexi; I figured soft maple would make it less of a pain to route the slots for the plexi but I'm not sure if that was the correct choice. The "handles" are just scrap walnut I cut slots in so I could slide them over the end of the plexi with some superglue squirted in there. I thought doing all the slots was going to be annoying but wiring the LED strips was a surprise pain in the rear end because the connectors I got were dogshit. That Works posted:What do folks like to use for cabinet face frames? This would be for a personal project, all the Youtubers use poplar. Edit: Should have loaded the last page. Poplar is quite soft so I don't think I'd use it for an exposed surface that people are going to interact with often. If you're going to paint it it might be fine, but I'd certainly lean towards a harder wood. I'd look around for local lumber mills if you can—I'm also in the north east and I've found a few nearby where I can purchase hardwood for under half what I'd pay Rockler.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:23
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I hattteee mdf. I hate the sawdust it makes and I hate the way it works. Hisssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
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Jan 12, 2023 16:23
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Yeah I would not recommend MDF for faceframes of cabinets you care about, especially in a kitchen. If they’re shop cabinets it’s probably fine and would save some money.
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Jan 12, 2023 16:31
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These are going to be for an entertainment center that should get very low traffic, and then eventually some built-ins in the dining room and master bedroom. None of it will be on the highest end of use and traffic in the house but the dining room, and at least will get used a couple times a week.
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Jan 12, 2023 17:04
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I think the short answer for a low-wear painted piece is use whatever you have. You might have to prime a bit more for an especially oily or resinous species, but otherwise it’s going to be fine. I’m working on a project right now that contains three species of hardwood, two of softwood, and even some bits of hardieboard and it’s going to matter very little in the end when it’s painted. Mister Dog fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 18:03
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Poplar is okay. It’s a little softer and grainier than might be ideal, but I know of some shops that use super soft basswood because it’s cheaper and easier to paint than poplar. Better cabinet shops usually use paint grade maple because it paints and wears better. Basically any lumberyard that sells hardwood lumber will sell poplar-I’m sure there’s a million of them in the NE. Some better construction lumberyards will carry poplar 1x dimensional stock for trim. There’s nothing really wrong with softwoods, they just tend to be a little soft and don’t wear as well as a harder wood, and on SYP and dougfir the grain will show through the paint sometimes. Only one painted project with SYP but with a couple quick shellac based primer coats first I can't see any grain at all through white paint.
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Jan 12, 2023 18:24
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This was the plan (Ok, cabinet wasn't going to happen) And this is how it ended up: (Already messy,lol)]  Ditched the top middle shelf due to lack of having to rip a panel to size and not sure if I really needed it. It'll do the job and once I get access to a workshop again, I'd like to redo it. Used 2x3's for the frame, roughly planed them by hand and then laminated panels from the hardware store, framed with 1x2s to add some stiffness and make it look thicker. Cheap Saman stain, which can be used indoor without killing yourself. This would have taken 1/2 day in a workshop, took probably 4 days working on the floor with handtools, but I'm otherwise happy with it.
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Jan 12, 2023 22:52
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CommonShore posted:I hattteee mdf. I hate the sawdust it makes and I hate the way it works. This. The only application where mdf is judged superior (or even worthy, imo) is for speaker cabinets because of its neutral resonance (none). And then veneered and/or face-framed with hardwood.
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Jan 12, 2023 23:44
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MDF is very dense. There are applications where high density combined with dimensional stability is an asset. As Mr. Mambold says, these are useful attributes for a speaker cabinet. They're also useful for e.g. panels for a table saw extension, because they will stay in place, have a smooth even surface, and can be easily replaced. However, MDF is heavy, doesn't hold screws well/is prone to tearout, sucks to cut and work with, and can be permanently ruined from even brief exposure to moisture. Many of us have had decades of exposure to MDF's failings via cheap flatpack furniture, and understandably have developed a mild hatred for the stuff.
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Jan 12, 2023 23:48
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Leperflesh posted:They're also useful for e.g. panels for a table saw extension, because they will stay in place, have a smooth even surface, and can be easily replaced. I think about this and then I picture all the sweat drip rust spots I have to clean off my table saw cast iron, and melamine starts to sound a lot better.
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Jan 13, 2023 01:48
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My used table saw came with a big side table made of MDF and it's stained and chipped a bit but still holding up. Probably replace it in a year or two. I appreciate its disposable aura, I feel no compunctions about doing glue-ups on it etc.
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Jan 13, 2023 02:14
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more falafel please posted:I think about this and then I picture all the sweat drip rust spots I have to clean off my table saw cast iron, and melamine starts to sound a lot better.
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Jan 13, 2023 03:36
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I've got one tabletop with  replaceable hardboard that I haven't changed in ten years, one with MDF that's stained with all manner of finish, paint, paint stripper, and who knows what, and one that's semi-disposable dimensional lumber. Currently the dimensional lumber one is accumulating stains the fastest because its the english joiners style top with dog holes and whatnot. Its too useful to not use for everything since it turns out every job needs holdfasts. If I do have to replace it I sure as hell will not use Doug Fir again, that poo poo is awful to plane.Currently I'm restoring the little red wagon I grew up with so my niece can use it. I can't imagine not having a convenient way to hold the wooden slats down while I pried them apart.
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Jan 13, 2023 06:13
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For those that use Fusion360, this cut list plug in is absolutely awesome: https://github.com/bluekeyes/Fusion360-ExportCutlist/blob/master/README.md I should also add this: https://www.cutlistoptimizer.com/ I use this for planning cuts/stock. Saves hours. ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Jan 14, 2023 |
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Jan 14, 2023 05:47
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Hazah! I didn’t ruin the butcher block 
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Jan 14, 2023 16:24
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Calidus posted:Hazah! I didn’t ruin the butcher block Well done. That type cutout is far from a piece of cake. So locate the nearest piece of cake and treat yourself! Be careful moving it if it's not already in place.
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Jan 14, 2023 17:42
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Do people actually like those Glu-bot things I see lots of Youtubers with? Bought one on a whim - the lid barely seals, such that I can hardly squeeze a drop of glue out of it without air hissing out of the main canister. Just wondering if this one is defective or if I was sucked into buying sponsored merch.
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Jan 14, 2023 19:07
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I haven’t had that kind of issue with mine and have generally been happy with mine
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Jan 14, 2023 19:20
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Do people actually like those Glu-bot things I see lots of Youtubers with? Bought one on a whim - the lid barely seals, such that I can hardly squeeze a drop of glue out of it without air hissing out of the main canister. Just wondering if this one is defective or if I was sucked into buying sponsored merch. I had two a couple years ago and they were great for quite a while and then developed air leaks. I liked them while they worked, but didn't like having to deal with seals with glue bottles. Old condiment bottles work awesome, and I've been using these for ~5 years now and love them. French's mustard is a classic for a nice thin line too. If you keep any glue bottle more than half full, the problem that the glubots try to solve isn't really an issue.
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Jan 14, 2023 19:27
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Do people actually like those Glu-bot things I see lots of Youtubers with? Bought one on a whim - the lid barely seals, such that I can hardly squeeze a drop of glue out of it without air hissing out of the main canister. Just wondering if this one is defective or if I was sucked into buying sponsored merch. Yeah they kinda suck. I just keep refilling the tall cylindrical squeeze bottle that Titebond comes in.
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Jan 14, 2023 20:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah they kinda suck. I just keep refilling the tall cylindrical squeeze bottle that Titebond comes in. Same, tried it and no more. Couldn't barely get anything out, they've got quite the racket going on with youtube influencers.
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Jan 14, 2023 20:19
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Calidus posted:Hazah! I didn’t ruin the butcher block Great job! I'd keep that offcut and make a cutting board that nests into the sink for messier cutting jobs.
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Jan 14, 2023 22:15
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Got some of those Glubot bottles as a gift, and they really don't work all that well with my home-cooked liquid hide glue. The lid would just not say on and everything came out of the fill hole instead of the spout. Also, I've never had an issue getting the last bits of glue out of a bottle. When they start getting low, stick them upside down in a dog hole and you're good to go.
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Jan 14, 2023 22:30
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While my original goal today of making a set of live-edge shelves out of some cherry boards didn't get accomplished, I did make two spatulas, a lazy susan, and finished assembly on a mini-table that has been sitting around half-done for several months. I used up a bunch of scrappy pieces and odd leftovers and feel really good about it. The shelves are a brand new thing, and I feel much more warmed up mentally to tackle that now that I've made a few simpler items and used up leftovers.
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Jan 15, 2023 00:06
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Just Winging It posted:my home-cooked liquid hide glue Ooh. I just bought my first batch of hide glue granules to cook up. Haven't had anything to glue yet, but I'm excited to try it soon. Following the advice of Josh at Mortise and Tenon magazine, I bought this 192 gram strength glue. Josh's recipe is to mix up 1/2 cup of granules with equal amount of water and 2 teaspoons of salt, let that soak overnight, then warm to 140F for usage. Is that roughly what you do? Any tips? ColdPie fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jan 15, 2023 |
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Jan 15, 2023 01:23
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ColdPie posted:Ooh. I just bought my first batch of hide glue granules to cook up. Haven't had anything to glue yet, but I'm excited to try it soon.
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Jan 15, 2023 01:27
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I think it's supposed to give it a longer open time.
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Jan 15, 2023 01:32
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What is the salt supposed to do? I’ve never used salt when I’ve made hide glue, but I’m definitely not a hide glue expert. It tans the hide. No need to stain. I'll see myself out, no need for an escort. Realpost, I've never seen or heard that either, I'd be curious to know his reason, although I'm even less of a hide glue knower. Usually I'm Find the last place I put the Glue guy. Okay, seriously, I'm done here folks. Be sure to tip your mods
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Jan 15, 2023 01:36
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ColdPie posted:Ooh. I just bought my first batch of hide glue granules to cook up. Haven't had anything to glue yet, but I'm excited to try it soon. I used urea, to extend open time, because unmodified hide glue has like sub-minute open time and I'm not fast enough to get all 4 sides of a box glued and clamped in that time. ~15% by weight I think, nobody mentions what strength their granules are over here, so some experimentation was necessary. But yeah, that's roughly what I do. All based on this article, Hide Glue in the Modern Workshop by James Russell that I saved ages ago when I found it on W. Patrick Edwards blog. Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Jan 15, 2023 |
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Jan 15, 2023 01:58
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I took a picture for my own reference, and decided I'd share. Here's my "normal" plane collection: From left to right: Stanley #8, transitional #8 (not restored yet), Stanley #7, New York Tool Co. #6ish (unrestored), Union #5 (unrestored), Stanley #4 with an aggressively rounded iron, Lakeside DE4, Stanley #4 (unrestored), Stanley #3, Fulton #3709, Stanley #2, Emmerich 649P, Veritas low-angle block plane Not shown are my various plow/combination/weirdo planes, spokeshave, etc. Most of them are still unrestored and also incomplete. Aside from the Veritas, which was a gift, and the Emmerich, which I bought in 2018, all of these are old planes I found at rummage sales and antique stores etc. I think I'm about $300 into them, not counting all the sandpaper and steel wool and stuff used for cleaning them up. I also gave away another english-made #4 to a friend, I really don't need 4 #4s. Right now my favorite is the #3. It's my first choice when I'm working on anything, I scale up and down of course but I love how it feels to use. Surprisingly the #2 is very useable too, it's not too small (and I have big hands, I wear a size L or XL glove). My #7 has an aggressively rounded iron but I'm scrubbing almost as often with the #4, when I'm just removing material and not trying to get flat yet. Like you can just see the bevel I've put on the edges of this big alder glue-up they're all sitting on, that's planed down to the correct thickness on the edges and I need to scrub off all the material until the bevels are gone, and I'll be doing at least half that work with the #4 because it's so much lighter and easier. I really don't feel like the 5 is very useful, but I haven't done any shooting yet and I think it's going to be my dedicated shooting board once I put one together (I know, I know, it's absurd I still haven't done that, but I have a miter saw and just haven't needed one for a project yet!) I do think the approximately #6 NYTC old rear end plane is gonna be a nice jack plane. I was thinking of just buying a #6 because one hasn't come up in my random thrift store shopping in the last few years, and then I found this one this past summer and figured it's about time I learned how to operate one of these! The sole is in good shape, much better than that transitional #8 that I may never get around to restoring just because I already have a functional iron #8. Anyway, planes, yup.
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Jan 15, 2023 03:54
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Jealous of your transitional #8, has to be the ideal jointer plane considering the weight savings and the ability to flatten the sole with other planes instead of having to lap it on a huge dead flat surface.
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Jan 15, 2023 17:41
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I'm jealous of the No.2. I use a No.3 for smoothing and I would probably like using a 2 even more but $$$.
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Jan 15, 2023 17:53
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Hey goons, I am a moron who is barely able to perform the simplest of DIY tasks. I looked at the OP but it's 15 years old so figured I may aswell ask here: I need a desk for my home office, I've been looking at corner desks but it seems in these post covid times you don't get much bang for your buck these days (at least in the UK). I do however have 3 x 3m long planks of pitch pine in my shed back from when I moved in years ago and took some shelving down. As an admitted idiot, is there a flaw in my plan of cuttinflg all the planks in half and making 2 x 3 plank wide desks that can be configured as a corner desk? I figure if I joint them together (biscuit better than dowel?) And glue with clamps, sand it off and finish with some danish oil and metal legs I can't go far wrong, but I'm happy to be told if this is a foolish plan.
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Jan 15, 2023 23:54
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