|
You can always sell the spare parts, though it's a serious headache because people are stupid and cheap. But don't listen to me, I literally owned an entire series of beater first gen Foresters specifically because I already had a big parts collection, despite hating the cars a lot. I eventually broke the cycle by selling the last one as a parts car with all my extra parts included so I would stop being tempted to buy another because I already had a bunch of parts for it.
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2023 18:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:41 |
|
|
On doing tie rods while you're in there, no matter what you do you'll need an alignment after. Weigh the parts cost vs another alignment when one goes bad. One possibly cheap light and handy tool would be a pair of toe plates, or something that would work like them. https://www.amazon.com/Longacre%C2%AE-Racing-Aluminum-Plates-Magnets/dp/B000VAOHB2 It'll get you very close. Not perfect milage from your tires on the highway close but more than enough for off roading.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2023 19:10
|
|
|
 Dealer tie-rod ends are $50/ea, and the evolution of the part number makes me think they are interchangeable left/right. That makes one of the current pretty-ok ones a good candidate for retiring to the emergency parts kit. OTOH, do people regularly blow out tie rod ends while offroading? I feel like I've heard about it being a thing, but mine have tolerated a huge amount of abuse over the years and seem fine? Dunno if that would justify adding 2 lbs to a box I have to load/unload every single day while on a trip.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2023 20:07
|
|
|
They do, but it's more because on most off-road vehicles they're at axle height and in front of the suspension, while yours I believe are higher up and behind the suspension. Also it's more of an issue with much larger tires and diff locks - it's mostly a problem when you're trying to force a wheel to go a direction it doesn't want to go. With your open diff and not very large tires it's likely you'll never break one unless you slide sideways into a ledge pretty hard, or get the front end really bound up in a bunch of rocks and try to steer in a direction it doesn't want to go, like I did when I bent my drag link double. All I can think is if you were trying to make it up a snowy hill again and were off camber and slid into the side of the hill really hard with the face of the wheel.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2023 23:21
|
|
|
Oh, the Jeeps, etc, are smacking their tie rods directly into terrain? Yeah, I imagine that's pretty rough on the joints, ha ha. The Sienna tie rods and other parts are tucked way up above the engine cradle. It is very well protected.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2023 02:26
|
|
|
Either that or wheel wedged against something or shock loaded from the side and the steering trying to go the other direction. Mine, I had a wheel up against a tree on one side and in between two rocks on the other side and was trying to make a hard right turn to get my wheels lined up on a ledge in front of me and the drag link just said I don't wanna, and so my left wheel turned right and my steering wheel turned right and my right wheel stayed exactly where it was. I've also bent them by running them into rocks, that's a pretty common thing. And at one point by sliding sideways on snow into a tall curb with my left wheel.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2023 03:46
|
|
|
Yeah, it'll be a bent wheel level hit. If it just bends you can adjust it out. If the joint pops you're stuck.
|
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2023 04:05
|
|
|
Desert Trip Damage Assessment 1) Replace steering rack. 2) Replace driver's side CV axle.  3) A/C refrigerant leak.  4) Gas tank leak. Very slight, not enough to drip. But I can see film around the gas tank drain plug, and smell it under the car. Possibly can be fixed with a new drain plug + washer? But I really need to fabricate a gas tank skid plate.   5) Fix spare tire mount, or make an alternate spare location. 6) Exhaust leak. Smashed pipe means the faces aren't true.  7) Discard sway bar. It's been disconnected for a long time, and I don't see myself going back to it. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2023 00:41
|
|
|
Grade 9 Science Projectryanrs posted:The grade 9 bolts are for the abrasion resistance of the hex heads. In practice, I've found the bolt heads don't get messed up enough to cause removal problems, although they are a wear item. Just replace them before they get too hosed up.   Grade 9 bolts after one desert trip. The grade 9 bolts were abraded by rocks and sand, but did not deform or mushroom. Grade 8 bolts tend to develop little dents and burrs on the head that can make it hard to fit a socket. Even grade 9 bolts are a wear item, though. I also discovered that these skid plate bolts loosen during use, even when they're torqued down pretty tightly. My theory is that rocks hit the bolt head off-center, imparting torque. When I put the plates back on, I'm going to use threadlock on half the bolts, and nord-lock wedge washers on the other half. With 11 bolts, I have a large enough population to run A/B testing!
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2023 06:28
|
|
|
kastein posted:You can always sell the spare parts, though it's a serious headache because people are stupid and cheap. Lol, I did this with BG Mazdas for awhile. Two 323s, two Proteges and a early Kia Sephia (yes it's a BG) later, I was like gently caress this and got a Camry 
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 19:12
|
|
|
First gen Siennas are literally Camrys. Major structural parts like the engine cradle are identical. That's why I have to take mine out to the desert and break it deliberately. Even so, it's been pretty bulletproof.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 04:05
|
|
|
It's Got Cop Shocks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtOuJSnhA7s I have discovered that Siennas can use Crown Vic rear shocks! That opens up some more possibilities, including these weird things: Gabriel HiJackers Air Shocks "Gabriel HiJackers air shocks are the original air-adjustable shocks designed to provide customizable performance and support. They can be adjusted and readjusted to maintain proper ride height—and handle any of your temporary towing or hauling needs, including boats and campers." If this can get 1-2 inches more rear ground clearance when the van is loaded, that will be pretty great! And unlike a full airbag suspension, if these things fail/leak, I still have the OEM rear springs, instead of sitting on the bump stops.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2023 07:05
|
|
|
Replace Spare Tire Carrierryanrs posted:Previously This is the second time I've replaced this part, which probably means I should design something better from scratch. OTOH, these things are cheap and easy to modify. Maybe it'll be less of a problem if I gain some ground clearance with the air shocks?   Welded, painted, installed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2023 21:59
|
|
|
You can also get load assisting shock for a crown Vic which have a spring instead of air but they are not adjustable just always adding a little height under load. For the dead bodies in the trunk.
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2023 18:37
|
|
|
Elephanthead posted:You can also get load assisting shock for a crown Vic which have a spring instead of air but they are not adjustable just always adding a little height under load. For the dead bodies in the trunk. I have Monroe Load Adjusting shocks like that on my Dodge Ram. They give a two inch lift and make it ride like a 1 ton unless there's a trailer or a couple hundred lbs. of stuff back there. Those, paired with Timbren bump stops, do a bang up job keeping the truck and trailer level, plus keep it from bottoming out over bumps. Timbrens are available for the Sienna, but you're looking at around $250 on top of probably $75-150 for load adjusting shocks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2023 01:06
|
|
|
Timbren $297 for the Sienna. Wow, that's a lot of money for a bump stop, even a fancy one. I'm going to see how these air shocks work out. I think I need even stiffer springs up front. Skid Plates v2 added some weight, which reduced ground clearance enough to notice. But I remember replacing struts was a huge pain in the rear end. If I ever do that again, I want build-to-order quick struts, made with my choice of spring. Is that a thing?
|
|
#
?
Jan 29, 2023 06:49
|
|
|
You might could add a spacer and longer studs to the top of the strut. This is how Subarus get mildly lifted. Any more than about an 1", though, and it really should be custom struts, not to mention starting to look at longer control arms, or at least adjustable ones. Mind you, since you note added weight, stiffer springs would make sense.
|
|
#
?
Jan 30, 2023 20:20
|
|
|
Custom struts and control arms! That is a big boy fabrication project! How much modeling and math will I need to do to avoid terrible/dangerous handling? My worry is there are extreme corners of the performance envelope that would be very difficult to test, but also very important for saving your rear end when poo poo goes wrong on the highway. On one hand, there seems to be a lot of small 4x4 shops making parts like control arms for trucks, what kind of simulation and testing do they do? On the other hand, there are a lot of modified 4x4s with issues like death wobble.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2023 04:11
|
|
|
They mostly don't. Some might do FEA to determine if there are any weak points on the design but most just yolo it up. There are a lot of hillbillies running fab companies selling parts that haven't been designed really at all other than fabrication concerns. One big impact is going to be crash safety (from a user and manufacturer perspective) and insurability (from the OEM perspective.) If a minor crash results in tweaked mounts on an expensive subframe or unibody, it can result in more totaled vehicles at lower speeds which affects insurability. If it is so strong it rips the frontmost body side mount point off and pivots back and puts something pointy through the floor or firewall and into the occupant, it's bad for business. Other than that it's NVH concerns (joint type) and geometry - how it affects your track width, steering, effective spring and damper rates, caster toe and camber changes as the suspension cycles, etc.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2023 10:18
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:It's Got Cop Shocks But did you fix the cigarette lighter?
|
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2023 12:56
|
|
|
STR posted:But did you fix the cigarette lighter? Sort of. Now it charges your phone. But if you want to start a fire, check out my leaking gas tank drain plug:   I noticed this leak when I got home from my trip. With 3/4 tank of gas, there wasn't a lot I could do about it except watch it intently. It does not drip on a piece of cardboard, but it does give off enough vapors so that you can smell it, especially under the van. Over maybe a week it will grow a small, very oily, red droplet, which I think is the less-volatile parts of the gasoline additive package. So anyway, today I put a wrench on the drain plug and tightened it a bit. It did feel slightly loose. Hopefully this is all it needs. I really do need to make a gas tank skid plate. e: Gas smell is gone or at least very much diminished. I cleaned the area around the drain plug with brake cleaner. If it is still leaking, it will leave a film on the metal. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Feb 6, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2023 21:45
|
|
|
Brand-New Components https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILRpRv57H0g Your Sienna pays dearly now for off-road magic moments But rock on completely with some brand-new components Air Shocks Gabriel HiJackers Air Shocks, and my previous KYB shocks on the right.  These things are plumbed with thin 1/8" nylon line. I used 1/4" vinyl aquarium line for strain relief. A small zip tie cinches the vinyl and firmly grips the inner nylon air line. Then I sealed it with a blob of JB Weld.    Inside the van, I ran the air line behind the trim to a cubby in the back, where it will be protected.    Steering Rack Mostly guided by this youtube video, but with a flush, etc. Making a mess trying to flush my power steering system before installing the reman steering rack, to check for glitter.   No metal fragments. I'm not sure what those black specs are, probably dirt falling off the van. They were not magnetic.    Does my reman steering rack have a kinked hydraulic line? WTF. Swap over the hard line from my old rack, but keep the reman's new o-rings.    The nasty core return, with one suspiciously clean hydraulic line.  New tie rod ends.  CV Axle Left-side CV axle split its boot and puked grease everywhere. I'm sure it ate a ton of sand, too. But it pulled out easily, which was nice.  Put in a new seal. At least my transmission looks clean on the inside.  Back together. Degreasing With the leaky steering rack replaced, it seemed worthwhile to spray some degreaser around the engine and front suspension. Most of the grime succumbed to hot detergent, some half-hearted brushing, and the hose. I decided against using a pressure washer, having just replaced some seals that definitely do not look pressure-washer-proof. It's clean enough.    Tomorrow it's getting an alignment. After that, the Sienna will be largely drivable. e: maintenance log 161,355 miles new rear air shocks new steering rack new left cv axle & seal new spare tire mount changed oil changed transmission fluid ryanrs fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Feb 6, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2023 02:01
|
|
|
More Repairs To Do - A/C block plate that doesn't leak, refill system with refrigerant. - Fabricate rear recovery points. - Gas tank skid plate. Maybe replace the gas tank (again) while I'm at it? - Spare tire skid plate? But maybe I need it less with the air shocks? - Offroad light controller. - Clean up wheel studs. - New bump stops. - Exhaust leak. - Cup holders. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Feb 10, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2023 05:28
|
|
|
Sheet Metal Recovery Points OEM tie-down points are clearly not strong enough for winching.  The new recovery points will wrap the unibody frame rail to grab a third M10 bolt on the side.  Bolt on some polycarbonate to trace out the shape. Join pieces with JB Weld and scrap steel to hold the angle, which is not 90 deg. Now I can measure stuff at my desk, instead of while laying down under the van.    Each recovery point will be made of two pieces of bent sheel metal, which are then welded together.     7 degree bend because nothing on a unibody is square.  The break-away piece (more like hacksaw-away) is there to provide an edge parallel to the bend line. This edge is pushed against the CNC bending press's moveable backstop, which sets the location of the bend on the part. Sort of like a built-in jig.  The left and right recovery points are mirror images of each other. If they were flat, you could order two of the same shape and flip one. But the addition of the bends makes the parts chiral, so I need to order 4 unique pieces of metal, with no volume discount, boo. Each piece will be cut out of 1/4" mild steel, with one bend line. Cost from SendCutSend is about $25 per piece, so $50 per recovery point. (Unless I screwed up the spacing or angles, in which case the price doubles to $100 per recovery point, heh.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 7, 2023 21:33
|
|
|
 Load-Bearing Cup Holder I need to make some kind of cup holder / tray that sits on top of the plastic containers. It should incorporate the ratchet straps or a similar mechanism to keep the containers from moving.   This is what I have so far. It uses tab and slot construction to build a strong structure out of plywood. Or that was the plan until I emailed SendCutSend to see where their plywood comes from. SendCutSend's baltic birch plywood is from Russia! So that's right out. I can't have my cup holders supporting Russia's war. Instead, I am going to build it out of Canadian MDF and masonite, with bones of stainless steel.  Top: 1/8" masonite hardboard    Bottom and sides: 1/2" MDF  Hooks for the ratchet straps. 3/16" stainless steel. Meh. I'm not in love with the materials, and the drat thing will weigh 10 lbs. But if I go down to 1/4" MDF, I don't know how well it will handle the load from the ratchet straps. The steel bones are overbuilt, but they only weigh 1 pound each. The large majority of the weight is in the MDF.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 04:16
|
|
|
I'm a fan of what you're using now, the roll of tape. I know they're cheesy but uhh Moblorg Small Center Console for Cars, Trucks, Minivans, SUVs, Vehicle Organizer, Cup Holders, Recycled Plastic, Made in USA (Black) https://a.co/d/4GMTEWC
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 06:06
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Have you considered block?
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 06:29
|
|
|
Lol I didn't realize I have a history of terrible center console ideas.
|
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 06:40
|
|
|
Heh, this is the second time the thread has turned to cup holders. The roll of tape is squarely in line with your ideas. It actually works quite well! I'm making a lightweight model with a mix of 1/4" and 3/8" MDF, and aluminum bones. I'll have numbers in a bit. e: Lightweight version is 7 lbs. which is only a little better. Speed holes can get it down to 6 lbs, if you dare. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Feb 12, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 12, 2023 07:06
|
|
|
Mid-weight version made of 3/8" MDF and aluminum hooks.  It'll weigh 8 lbs and cost $200, if I build it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 05:48
|
|
|
do you worry about the sharp laser cut edges of the hooks cutting into your ratchet straps?
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 06:03
|
|
|
I'm going to have to post-process the hooks by hand to smooth the edges. The aluminum might also make gray stains on the ratchet straps. Stainless steel wouldn't stain the webbing, but adds a pound of weight.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 06:19
|
|
|
Make a form out of cardboard and cast something in cement
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 08:23
|
|
|
Coat the hooks. Plastidip might work if it’s not too grippy for your purposes.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 10:28
|
|
|
They have this thing called "couchconsole" that is basically a cupholder for drinks you put on a couch. The cupholders are on their own access that keep the drink upright as long as the whole thing isn't turned upside down. Kind of expensive for what it is, but also less than $200.
|
|
#
?
Feb 13, 2023 21:59
|
|
|
Boat cupholders on a gimbal might also be something to look at. edit: searching for boat stuff is also a good way to find the cup holder inserts to integrate into other consoles, etc. Such as: https://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Stainless-Holder-Marine/dp/B009DCGT74 Just an example - I have no knowledge of that seller or product specifically. edit the two-th: something like this is what I was thingking of: https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Chrome-Holder-Plated-Insulator/dp/B0019M5F3K Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Feb 14, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 20:17
|
|
|
It's not really about the cup holder, it's about designing and making the thing. I've wanted to do a plywood tab and slot project for a while, and there aren't many places to do carpentry on a car (morgans excepted). So the cup holder carpentry was a nice opportunity, but Putin hosed it all up. Oh well. I will probably stick with the roll of duct tape for now. I have more interesting van parts already in production, albeit slightly delayed: 
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 20:50
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:It's not really about the cup holder, it's about designing and making the thing. I've wanted to do a plywood tab and slot project for a while, and there aren't many places to do carpentry on a car (morgans excepted). So the cup holder carpentry was a nice opportunity, but Putin hosed it all up. You realize this is baltic birch plywood that's already sitting in a warehouse in they US, right? They don't pay a Wagner PMC to slice up trees on-demand.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 21:03
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:I have more interesting van parts already in production, albeit slightly delayed: Your parts are being bent is a wonderful status update.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 21:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:41 |
|
|
StormDrain posted:Your parts are being bent is a wonderful status update. I love it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2023 21:25
|
|
