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Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




fknlo posted:

I'd honestly probably just buy the Brooklyn Bedding Signature right now if my back hadn't been hurting as of late. It's the "updated" version of the Best Mattress Ever. I've liked the mattress but something seems off since I moved as I never had any issues with it before. Everything seems fine with the bed and platform it has been on so I don't know if the mattress itself got damaged during the move or something? As far as sleeping hot goes, I've got linen sheets that I've loved that seem to do a lot of work. Firmness for me definitely relates to overall hardness. I feel like something with more support is getting important the older I get as my body falls apart day to day.

All I know is that there are too many options with too many claims. One place says a mattress is super firm and cools well, another says it's too soft and hot, and then customer reviews will be all over the place too. There's a possibility I grab something from Costco and see what happens. The Leesa Legend looks interesting. The Costco one is listed at medium firm while all the review sites show it as a fairly soft mattress. I've somewhat eliminated the Purple because with buying a new frame and sheets and comforter and all that the price is up there without getting a $3k+ mattress.

Linen is A++ on the cooling front, so good pickup there. It's a bit rougher than most other textiles, and tends to be on the pricier side, so it isn't popular, but they are one of my favorite fabrics.

It is entirely possible a part of your mattress shifted during the move. The easiest way to check is to see if the top of the mattress is still flat and level; if so, check and see if there are any parts of the bed that are noticeably firmer or softer than anywhere else, as that could also be a bit of a red flag. If your platform is in good shape, you do not necessarily need to get a new platform or frame--again, check to make sure everything is uniformly flat and holding up correctly!

For what it's worth, the inconsistency of online reviews of mattresses, the decentralized nature of information wrt bed buying, and grandiose claims from manufacturers are likely why the mattress industry is one of the few remaining strongholds of in-person retail. With a knowledgeable and caring guide, it can be a useful exercise, but with a pushy and ignorant salesguy it can be completely awful. Essentially, you've got to find someone to whom you can divulge a fair amount of relatively private information, and then trust that person to listen, know what they're talking about, and give good suggestions. It's a lot.

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PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


My gf said we should get a new bed for Christmas and I agree with her, ours is a sping one that's got an annoying dip in the center. We're leaning towards some bed in a box since we've slept on a bunch of random ones in Airbnb's and they're pretty much all better than our bed. They all seem the same though so how do you really compare the brands? Are there showrooms like best buy but for foam blocks?

I think I want to get a new frame as well, I'm using the one that came w the bed originally and it's annoying how easily it rolls around. It has a split box frame the mattress sits on which is fine, I'd like to keep that. I recall some <$200 nice enough frame posted in this thread in the past but didn't find it. I live in an apartment too so nothing bulky and heavy.

When we got out current bed it was right after we had been given the runaround by one mattress place and after sleeping on a yoga mat for a week we broke down and bought one from a local place that we surely overpaid for. I don't want to do that again.

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




PokeJoe posted:

My gf said we should get a new bed for Christmas and I agree with her, ours is a sping one that's got an annoying dip in the center. We're leaning towards some bed in a box since we've slept on a bunch of random ones in Airbnb's and they're pretty much all better than our bed. They all seem the same though so how do you really compare the brands? Are there showrooms like best buy but for foam blocks?

I think I want to get a new frame as well, I'm using the one that came w the bed originally and it's annoying how easily it rolls around. It has a split box frame the mattress sits on which is fine, I'd like to keep that. I recall some <$200 nice enough frame posted in this thread in the past but didn't find it. I live in an apartment too so nothing bulky and heavy.

When we got out current bed it was right after we had been given the runaround by one mattress place and after sleeping on a yoga mat for a week we broke down and bought one from a local place that we surely overpaid for. I don't want to do that again.

Most foam beds in a box will be similar, but there is certainly some variation. The biggest problem with buying online is that there is no consistency with respect to labels: Nectar claims it is firm, and it's one of the softest all foam options I've tried, whereas Tuft & Needle (particularly the Mint) is absurdly firm. If you're looking for "better than what I have now," you can pretty much pick nearly at random. If you're looking for "best for me with what's out there," there isn't a good substitute for doing the gruntwork yourself imo.

I'm no expert on platforms, so go with whatever you like the look of. I can evaluate anything you're not sure about if you like, but most of them should be fine.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Are there any that are particularly good at not retaining heat? My gfs biggest complaint is that I am apparently a night furnace

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

PokeJoe posted:

Are there any that are particularly good at not retaining heat? My gfs biggest complaint is that I am apparently a night furnace

Purple has that reputation, and I have found it to be true in my Purple, but it could also be a placebo.

You can test Purple mattresses at Mattress Firm.

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

I think I need a really soft mattress. I've tried for years now to get a mattress I'm happy with, and I'm starting to wonder if the advice I got is correct:

  1. Does softer = less dense foam = it's going to wear out faster, and is therefore a ripoff if it's expensive?
  2. If a vendor won't tell me how dense their foam is, is it a sign that they're trying to pull a fast one with crappy foam?

I'm also starting to think I should just buy a queen size sheet of soft foam and try sleeping on that. My couch cushions feel more comfortable to me than my mattress :(

Hyperlynx fucked around with this message at 10:42 on Dec 21, 2022

Papes
Apr 13, 2010

There's always something at the bottom of the bag.
I’ve decided to buy a new bed soon, and plan to go to mattress firm or an equivalent and try mattresses out. Other than the mattress, we really want an adjustable frame (preferably split king) but the options are overwhelming. Any recs for a basic adjustable frame that wont crap out in a year?

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




Hyperlynx posted:

I think I need a really soft mattress. I've tried for years now to get a mattress I'm happy with, and I'm starting to wonder if the advice I got is correct:

  1. Does softer = less dense foam = it's going to wear out faster, and is therefore a ripoff if it's expensive?
  2. If a vendor won't tell me how dense their foam is, is it a sign that they're trying to pull a fast one with crappy foam?

I'm also starting to think I should just buy a queen size sheet of soft foam and try sleeping on that. My couch cushions feel more comfortable to me than my mattress :(

A less dense foam will generally allow you to sink more, but that isn't the only measure of softness. When I think of soft vs. firm, there are three attributes that I consider.
  • Buoyancy (i.e., "how much do I sink?")
  • Pressure relief (i.e., "does this put pressure on X areas?")
  • Hardness (i.e., "does this feel like the floor?")
The only thing that must be true for a soft mattress is that it cannot be hard. Foam density isn't going to necessarily change much except for buoyancy: you sink more in less dense foam than denser foam.

Vendors not telling you how dense foam is may be them trying to pull a fast one, but not necessarily. Tempurpedic doesn't officially disclose how dense their materials are anymore for proprietary reasons. Manufacturers that don't make their own foams may not tell you because they may be getting foams within a range of firmness (imagine them saying "between 2.25 and 2.6 pound density," and see how that strikes you!). If you have questions about specific models, post them and I'll see what I can figure out!

Soft can be great--I sleep on a very soft mattress! But consider the three different attributes when you go try some stuff, if you can. Be sensitive to how you feel while you lie on these things, and see if you feel as if you can lay in a natural position without pressure on your major pressure points. When you get down to your final couple of options, take several minutes (at least 5) to see if you start to feel pressure anywhere before making your final buying decision.

ed: There is no harm in trying a topper if you're only trying to get softer! If the discomfort you're feeling is primarily distal (e.g., shoulder/hip aches), it's a good idea.

Papes posted:

I’ve decided to buy a new bed soon, and plan to go to mattress firm or an equivalent and try mattresses out. Other than the mattress, we really want an adjustable frame (preferably split king) but the options are overwhelming. Any recs for a basic adjustable frame that wont crap out in a year?

Overly reductive answer: spend at least $500 per base, and you should be fine. :v:

If a base is super-duper promotional (e.g., a free base promotion), see if you can transfer savings to an upgraded model. Free bases are certainly not the best within the catalog of whatever business you're checking out--this doesn't mean that they aren't reliable, necessarily, but if you can save the same value on a superior product, it is usually not a bad idea to do so.

The two brands I have the most faith in are ErgoMotion (they make a lot of bases for Tempur as well as the better Beautyrest, Serta, and Sealy bases), and Leggett & Platt (they make their own bases, but also do some private label stuff). Mantua is OK, as well. I have very little experience with Malouf bases, but they seem OK. Reverie can go gently caress itself, and I also have a not-great opinion of Glideaway, without any particular reason on the last one.

If you want to get a general idea of quality of product outside of price, the two most important things to confirm are the lift capacity (this is not a weight capacity, but a measure of how much weight the motors will actively lift), what the support deck is (i.e., what the mattress sits on--if it isn't a strong platform, keep moving). Lift capacity, generally, should be over 650 lbs. in a queen size to get my approval. Also, see what enhanced features a base has. Zero clearance bases show some additional thought went into the design; wall hugging capabilities are equally indicative but mutually exclusive. Oscillating massage also usually implies a premium product. Cordless vs corded remotes can give you a general sense about the sophistication of the product, but that doesn't indicate reliability. The presence, or lack, of things like USB ports and undermounted lights are meaningless.

The final, obvious-but-often-ignored thing to confirm is the length of the full coverage portion of the warranty of the base. Most bases carry a 10-year limited warranty, with only the first X years being fully covered. You want X to be 2 or more.

As usual, if you'd like my direct opinion, post what you're considering!

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Synastren posted:

A less dense foam will generally allow you to sink more, but that isn't the only measure of softness. When I think of soft vs. firm, there are three attributes that I consider.
  • Buoyancy (i.e., "how much do I sink?")
  • Pressure relief (i.e., "does this put pressure on X areas?")
  • Hardness (i.e., "does this feel like the floor?")
The only thing that must be true for a soft mattress is that it cannot be hard. Foam density isn't going to necessarily change much except for buoyancy: you sink more in less dense foam than denser foam.

Vendors not telling you how dense foam is may be them trying to pull a fast one, but not necessarily. Tempurpedic doesn't officially disclose how dense their materials are anymore for proprietary reasons. Manufacturers that don't make their own foams may not tell you because they may be getting foams within a range of firmness (imagine them saying "between 2.25 and 2.6 pound density," and see how that strikes you!). If you have questions about specific models, post them and I'll see what I can figure out!

Soft can be great--I sleep on a very soft mattress! But consider the three different attributes when you go try some stuff, if you can. Be sensitive to how you feel while you lie on these things, and see if you feel as if you can lay in a natural position without pressure on your major pressure points. When you get down to your final couple of options, take several minutes (at least 5) to see if you start to feel pressure anywhere before making your final buying decision.

ed: There is no harm in trying a topper if you're only trying to get softer! If the discomfort you're feeling is primarily distal (e.g., shoulder/hip aches), it's a good idea.

Much appreciated!

pastor of muppets
Aug 21, 2007

We were somewhere around the Living Hive, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold...

Just ordered a Leesa Sapira hybrid to replace our ten-year-old pillowtop, will report back when I've had a chance to test drive. We're both side sleepers who sleep hot and prefer a softer mattress.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


What's this I've seen about phase change material cooling mattresses? There seem to be a lot of "cooling" things available but some of them are just foam blocks and it seems like hogwash. What kinds have the real chemistry than can keep my sweaty corpse cool at night?

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




I sure hope someone doesn't ask an industry specific question that can have a needlessly convoluted answer that I did entirely through my own research over the last few years.

<clicks thread>

Oh gently caress me

PokeJoe posted:

What's this I've seen about phase change material cooling mattresses? There seem to be a lot of "cooling" things available but some of them are just foam blocks and it seems like hogwash. What kinds have the real chemistry than can keep my sweaty corpse cool at night?

short version: Phase change material is a catchall that generally means "wax that melts at skin temperature." PCM cools more intensely than virtually any other technology but typically only for a maximum "cool" of 30 minutes. From there, it continues to work but should be considered something that fights against overheating. Likely the closest thing to real life, actual "cooling gel."

Longer, more in-depth explanation that you probably won't even get if you work in the industry and I have pieced together myself because of my insatiable curiosity:

Phase change material refers to a substance that changes its physical state (liquid, solid, gas), typically at useful thermal levels. The one we're most used to is water, particularly its relationship to ice. Ice maintains its temperature, regardless of its surrounding environment, but it absorbs relatively huge amounts of heat when it melts. It is this change in physical state, aka phase change, that is significant, as it is what we rely on to cool things with ice, since it absorbs so much heat! This is also why water is so useful for a number of cooking techniques, as boiling water cannot typically go beyond its boiling point--it evaporates instead, thereby changing its physical state. Think of water as something that has a consistent temperature band, and that requires relatively massive amounts of thermal energy to cross a breakpoint to get to a different physical state.

PCM in bedding is typically paraffin wax in a gel suspension, typically in little balls. From there, things can vary wildly from treatment to treatment, from vendor to vendor. In pillows, for example, it just looks like a product has been sprayed with a blue gel because the globules are very small. In contrast, in Tempur's breeze line of mattresses, the globules are actually significantly larger than everyone else's variation. To continue the ice analogy, the larger the chunk of ice, the longer it takes to melt, the longer it takes to lose its cooling properties; conversely, if the ice bits are smaller, the cool will be much more intense for a lesser amount of time. This analogy maps on well to PCM globule size. You can also see it yourself with the difference in performance and duration of something like a whisky sphere vs a standard ice cube vs crushed ice. Similarly, PCM treated pillows will typically be intensively cool, but that cooling will last no more than 20 minutes--some as short as 5 or 10. Most mattresses that use PCM should stay cool (read: not cold, but cool) for about 20-30 minutes. Tempur's breeze PCM outperforms that but I don't know the exact numbers, and there are so many things in that mattress that it would be impossible to test without destroying the mattress or Tempur telling us.

It is also worth mentioning as clearly as possible that PCM only feels cold until it melts. Once the treatment directly under your body is melted, it will continue to push heat to the parts not directly under you, but it will no longer feel cold. You know, like ice does. Unlike ice, though, because its melting point is also its freezing point when you remove a heat source, it can rapidly resolidify once that heat (i.e., your head) is moved to another part of this hypothetical pillow.

Unlike ice, PCM can have different melting point temperatures which can also affect its cooling. The most common melting point for the aforementioned wax is typically somewhere between 84 - 86 degrees F, as that is the average skin temperature. In sophisticated cooling treatments (the now dead BeautyRest Black Ice foam mattresses, for example), they had three different layers of PCM each with a different melting point that ascended, which provided a much prolonged cooling performance that was also intensely cool. And it also cost about $5k for one of those about 4 years ago, so you certainly paid for it. The best performing PCM, if globule size is held constant, will have multiple melting points, which you can think of analogous to an onion. When one layer is used up, there is another underneath.

The final thing to mention is that some companies are toying with other ways to generate PCM. BeautyRest has started using PCM derived from sunflower oil, which is pretty cool.

So, in summary, the cheapest PCM treatment will be a thin layer of something that feels pretty cool for about as long as you want to stand at an in-store demo at Bed Bath and Beyond in order to get you to buy it. The more common treatment in a relatively upscale pillow will look similar, but will be fairly intensely cold for about 5-15 minutes before the PCM is exhausted. In a mattress, double that estimated time. At the upper end, you can probably expect to be that cold from the PCM for maybe half an hour.

Note, however, that for best results, PCM is utilized in tandem with other cooling technologies, particularly fabrics that feel cold as well, or components which are extremely breathable. You do not want to rely on PCM as the only cooling technology in a product if you are looking for something more than a cool surface to help you fall asleep!

CheshireCat
Jul 9, 2001

You exist because we allow it. And you will end because we demand it.
My Sapira hybrid mattress has been on a simple Zinus metal platform bed for a while now and I'm looking to upgrade that to something a lot more stylish. Anyone here have experience with the Thuma bed frame? Or something similar?

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Synastren posted:

I sure hope someone doesn't ask an industry specific question that can have a needlessly convoluted answer that I did entirely through my own research over the last few years.

<clicks thread>

Oh gently caress me

short version: Phase change material is a catchall that generally means "wax that melts at skin temperature." PCM cools more intensely than virtually any other technology but typically only for a maximum "cool" of 30 minutes. From there, it continues to work but should be considered something that fights against overheating. Likely the closest thing to real life, actual "cooling gel."

Longer, more in-depth explanation that you probably won't even get if you work in the industry and I have pieced together myself because of my insatiable curiosity:

Phase change material refers to a substance that changes its physical state (liquid, solid, gas), typically at useful thermal levels. The one we're most used to is water, particularly its relationship to ice. Ice maintains its temperature, regardless of its surrounding environment, but it absorbs relatively huge amounts of heat when it melts. It is this change in physical state, aka phase change, that is significant, as it is what we rely on to cool things with ice, since it absorbs so much heat! This is also why water is so useful for a number of cooking techniques, as boiling water cannot typically go beyond its boiling point--it evaporates instead, thereby changing its physical state. Think of water as something that has a consistent temperature band, and that requires relatively massive amounts of thermal energy to cross a breakpoint to get to a different physical state.

PCM in bedding is typically paraffin wax in a gel suspension, typically in little balls. From there, things can vary wildly from treatment to treatment, from vendor to vendor. In pillows, for example, it just looks like a product has been sprayed with a blue gel because the globules are very small. In contrast, in Tempur's breeze line of mattresses, the globules are actually significantly larger than everyone else's variation. To continue the ice analogy, the larger the chunk of ice, the longer it takes to melt, the longer it takes to lose its cooling properties; conversely, if the ice bits are smaller, the cool will be much more intense for a lesser amount of time. This analogy maps on well to PCM globule size. You can also see it yourself with the difference in performance and duration of something like a whisky sphere vs a standard ice cube vs crushed ice. Similarly, PCM treated pillows will typically be intensively cool, but that cooling will last no more than 20 minutes--some as short as 5 or 10. Most mattresses that use PCM should stay cool (read: not cold, but cool) for about 20-30 minutes. Tempur's breeze PCM outperforms that but I don't know the exact numbers, and there are so many things in that mattress that it would be impossible to test without destroying the mattress or Tempur telling us.

It is also worth mentioning as clearly as possible that PCM only feels cold until it melts. Once the treatment directly under your body is melted, it will continue to push heat to the parts not directly under you, but it will no longer feel cold. You know, like ice does. Unlike ice, though, because its melting point is also its freezing point when you remove a heat source, it can rapidly resolidify once that heat (i.e., your head) is moved to another part of this hypothetical pillow.

Unlike ice, PCM can have different melting point temperatures which can also affect its cooling. The most common melting point for the aforementioned wax is typically somewhere between 84 - 86 degrees F, as that is the average skin temperature. In sophisticated cooling treatments (the now dead BeautyRest Black Ice foam mattresses, for example), they had three different layers of PCM each with a different melting point that ascended, which provided a much prolonged cooling performance that was also intensely cool. And it also cost about $5k for one of those about 4 years ago, so you certainly paid for it. The best performing PCM, if globule size is held constant, will have multiple melting points, which you can think of analogous to an onion. When one layer is used up, there is another underneath.

The final thing to mention is that some companies are toying with other ways to generate PCM. BeautyRest has started using PCM derived from sunflower oil, which is pretty cool.

So, in summary, the cheapest PCM treatment will be a thin layer of something that feels pretty cool for about as long as you want to stand at an in-store demo at Bed Bath and Beyond in order to get you to buy it. The more common treatment in a relatively upscale pillow will look similar, but will be fairly intensely cold for about 5-15 minutes before the PCM is exhausted. In a mattress, double that estimated time. At the upper end, you can probably expect to be that cold from the PCM for maybe half an hour.

Note, however, that for best results, PCM is utilized in tandem with other cooling technologies, particularly fabrics that feel cold as well, or components which are extremely breathable. You do not want to rely on PCM as the only cooling technology in a product if you are looking for something more than a cool surface to help you fall asleep!

Lol thanks for all the details now I have more stuff to sift through. I'm familiar with the concept of phase change stuff in general but had no idea how they are integrated into a mattress :tipshat:

Manwich
Oct 3, 2002

Grrrrah

CheshireCat posted:

My Sapira hybrid mattress has been on a simple Zinus metal platform bed for a while now and I'm looking to upgrade that to something a lot more stylish. Anyone here have experience with the Thuma bed frame? Or something similar?

I got a Thuma earlier this year. I debated between the Thuma and the Drommen https://www.cb2.com/drommen-acacia-wood-queen-bed/s213816

The Thuma is nice and easy to assemble and disassemble. The wood is nice and has held up.

I didn't get the walnut finish, which at the beginning of the year seemed to have a 3 month backlog. The headboard definitely needs to be raised up. Hacks to the headboard include using yoga foam risers to lift the headboard up, otherwise it is nice when sleeping but doing anything such as reading or watching tv, it sits right at the small of your back and is somewhat uncomfortable.

The accessories seem to be generally ripoffs though.

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Hey, on this:

Synastren posted:

Soft can be great--I sleep on a very soft mattress! But consider the three different attributes when you go try some stuff, if you can. Be sensitive to how you feel while you lie on these things, and see if you feel as if you can lay in a natural position without pressure on your major pressure points. When you get down to your final couple of options, take several minutes (at least 5) to see if you start to feel pressure anywhere before making your final buying decision.

ed: There is no harm in trying a topper if you're only trying to get softer! If the discomfort you're feeling is primarily distal (e.g., shoulder/hip aches), it's a good idea.

What should I actually be looking for when shopping for a topper? Just something that says it's "soft"? Specific thicknesses or anything? Assuming I want something very soft and squooshy and sinky, how would I go about finding one?

Also, I've lately been waking up with numb arms from sleeping on them wrong. Both on my side and on my back. I feel like a softer mattress/topper would help with that. Do you think that's likely?

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




Hyperlynx posted:

Hey, on this:

What should I actually be looking for when shopping for a topper? Just something that says it's "soft"? Specific thicknesses or anything? Assuming I want something very soft and squooshy and sinky, how would I go about finding one?

Also, I've lately been waking up with numb arms from sleeping on them wrong. Both on my side and on my back. I feel like a softer mattress/topper would help with that. Do you think that's likely?

I know in the US toppers typically come in 3 thicknesses:
  • 2 inches - adds a bit of softness
  • 3 inches - substantial softness
  • 4 inches - basically you will never feel the bed again because you're on 4 inches of foam

In general I recommend 3 inch toppers for most folks, assuming that it is more pressure relief needed. I recommend the thinnest one for folks that just need a little bit more softness. 4 inch toppers are basically for folks who have completely missed the mark, went too firm, and are unwilling/unable to get a more appropriate mattress.

Numb limbs generally imply pressure on a nerve somewhere. When related to sleeping, most commonly that is in the neck or the shoulder. Given that you called out specifically feeling numbness on your arm that was primarily in your ring finger and pinky, that implies your elbow, though, which is something I have limited experience in. Most likely, it has to do with what you're doing with your arms while sleeping, and it would be difficult for me to suggest strategies to change your sleeping posture, or what firmness you may need to facilitate those changes.

With what may seem odd, I'd actually start with something like a bed wedge to add some elevation to your upper body, as that may have a more profound effect on what you do with your arms while you're sleeping. Note that I picked one at random from a search for what would be available in Australia. I don't think I'd go for something super tall or steep, but I think that's a good place to start your investigation.

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Synastren posted:

I know in the US toppers typically come in 3 thicknesses:
  • 2 inches - adds a bit of softness
  • 3 inches - substantial softness
  • 4 inches - basically you will never feel the bed again because you're on 4 inches of foam

In general I recommend 3 inch toppers for most folks, assuming that it is more pressure relief needed. I recommend the thinnest one for folks that just need a little bit more softness. 4 inch toppers are basically for folks who have completely missed the mark, went too firm, and are unwilling/unable to get a more appropriate mattress.

Numb limbs generally imply pressure on a nerve somewhere. When related to sleeping, most commonly that is in the neck or the shoulder. Given that you called out specifically feeling numbness on your arm that was primarily in your ring finger and pinky, that implies your elbow, though, which is something I have limited experience in. Most likely, it has to do with what you're doing with your arms while sleeping, and it would be difficult for me to suggest strategies to change your sleeping posture, or what firmness you may need to facilitate those changes.

With what may seem odd, I'd actually start with something like a bed wedge to add some elevation to your upper body, as that may have a more profound effect on what you do with your arms while you're sleeping. Note that I picked one at random from a search for what would be available in Australia. I don't think I'd go for something super tall or steep, but I think that's a good place to start your investigation.
Thanks for the advice!

LuckyCat
Jul 26, 2007

Grimey Drawer
I got frustrated last night with all the options and pulled the trigger on a king Puffy Royal. Fingers crossed it doesn’t suck!

Is there a generally agreed upon “best bang for your buck” bed frame & headboard combo? Should I be looking at Amazon, ikea, elsewhere?

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




LuckyCat posted:

I got frustrated last night with all the options and pulled the trigger on a king Puffy Royal. Fingers crossed it doesn’t suck!

Is there a generally agreed upon “best bang for your buck” bed frame & headboard combo? Should I be looking at Amazon, ikea, elsewhere?

As long as the thing is structurally sound (i.e., slats are 2 inches apart, at most; can hold adult weight because it isn't built like poo poo), you can get basically anything you want! It'll mostly be aesthetic choice at that point.

pastor of muppets
Aug 21, 2007

We were somewhere around the Living Hive, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold...

Got my new Leesa Sapira yesterday. First night impressions: I hate it. Way too firm. I couldn't find a comfortable position and woke up constantly with random numbness and pain. I'm hoping I just need a few nights of breaking in/adjusting to it, but I'm already dreading having to keep this thing 30 days before I can return it.

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




pastor of muppets posted:

Got my new Leesa Sapira yesterday. First night impressions: I hate it. Way too firm. I couldn't find a comfortable position and woke up constantly with random numbness and pain. I'm hoping I just need a few nights of breaking in/adjusting to it, but I'm already dreading having to keep this thing 30 days before I can return it.

Walk on it. If you're unsure that's a good idea, you can crawl on it instead. If you apply direct pressure like that, it will speed up the breaking in of the comfort layers of the mattress.

LuckyCat
Jul 26, 2007

Grimey Drawer
We went with the Puffy Royal because most folks online said it was softer than other hybrids like the Leesa Sapira. I’d look into that one! We’ve had ours almost a week and I like it a lot. It is softer but still supportive compared to our regular Leesa we upgraded from.

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Hm.

So it looks like a bed wedge, a topper, or a foam mattress all cost about the same. I'm not really sure how a wedge would help me, either. I think at this stage I'm just going to try buy a plain foam mattress and see how that goes. Not memory foam or latex or anything, just plain ole foam. I mean, that's what my couch is, and I'm more comfortable on my side on my couch than any position in my bed!

Something like this? https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/collections/queen-mattresses/products/15797p-comfort-plus-mattress-queen...

...though that does say right there:

quote:

Our Australian Made Comfort Plus Mattress is suitable for occasional use.

Made from medium density foam these mattresses are perfect for your spare bedroom at home, in caravans, campervans, trailers, camping and at your holiday home.

So that's not designed for continual use, which will apparently wear it out. Meanwhile this one says it is intended for regular use, and that it's made from "superior quality, high-density foam".

That does match what I'd read elsewhere, that higher density foam is more durable. But higher density foam is also firmer, isn't it?

It's looking to me like I need to just spend a few hundred every few years on a cheaper mattress made of/with less dense foam, because that's going to be the softest and most comfortable to sleep on. And find a showroom somewhere so that I can try one of these out...

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




Hyperlynx posted:

Hm.

So it looks like a bed wedge, a topper, or a foam mattress all cost about the same. I'm not really sure how a wedge would help me, either. I think at this stage I'm just going to try buy a plain foam mattress and see how that goes. Not memory foam or latex or anything, just plain ole foam. I mean, that's what my couch is, and I'm more comfortable on my side on my couch than any position in my bed!

Something like this? https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/collections/queen-mattresses/products/15797p-comfort-plus-mattress-queen...

...though that does say right there:

So that's not designed for continual use, which will apparently wear it out. Meanwhile this one says it is intended for regular use, and that it's made from "superior quality, high-density foam".

That does match what I'd read elsewhere, that higher density foam is more durable. But higher density foam is also firmer, isn't it?

It's looking to me like I need to just spend a few hundred every few years on a cheaper mattress made of/with less dense foam, because that's going to be the softest and most comfortable to sleep on. And find a showroom somewhere so that I can try one of these out...

Higher density foam is firmer on average, but not necessarily. Density is just a measure of how much air is in any given cubic foot of foam. I'm sure the unit of measurement changes in not-US places (probably kg per cubic meter or something?), but it's good to give you an idea of how highly engineered the product is. At those prices, it is likely dense for furniture, not super dense for bedding, and almost certainly gel infused to increase its density without inflating its price much.

Thom Yorke raps
Nov 2, 2004


I'm looking to upgrade from a queen to a king. My current mattress is a Nest "Honest Beds Pocketed Coil Collection - Queen / Latex", which is a pocket coil bed with 2"-3" inches of latex on top. I've been pretty happy with it, but it's hard to share with my partner because she sinks into the bed so much and I end up not laying flat, and my partner likes to lay in it but not to sleep in it because it's too soft. I'm not sure if we just need a bigger bed, or a different kind of bed.

I'm 5'11" and 185 pounds, she's 5'6" and 315 pounds, and we'd also like space to occasionally have my other girlfriend (6' and 180 pounds) sleep in the bed as well. I usually sleep on my stomach, but I'm working on transitioning to sleeping on my side for back/neck pain reasons. She sleeps on her side.

The Purple hybrid seems very popular, and I'm intrigued by it - planning on making it out to a Mattress Firm to try it out. I've also been considering Foam Sweet Foam as it has good reviews on sleeplikethedead.com. Any suggestions?

unknown
Nov 16, 2002
Ain't got no stinking title yet!


Remeber that a king is the same as two doubles twin side by side. Lots of people will get two different mattresses (same height though). You do have the chasm/edge in between, but you both get what you want.

Edit: totally missed that there's a third person there.

unknown fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jan 16, 2023

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




unknown posted:

Remeber that a king is the same as two doubles side by side. Lots of people will get two different mattresses (same height though). You do have the chasm/edge in between, but you both get what you want.

Edit: totally missed that there's a third person there.

Not two doubles (aka full), but two singles (aka twin). A full is ~54 inches wide, a king is ~76 inches wide. A twin in is ~38 inches wide. Both a twin and full are shorter than a king or queen by 5 inches.

Thom Yorke raps posted:

I'm looking to upgrade from a queen to a king. My current mattress is a Nest "Honest Beds Pocketed Coil Collection - Queen / Latex", which is a pocket coil bed with 2"-3" inches of latex on top. I've been pretty happy with it, but it's hard to share with my partner because she sinks into the bed so much and I end up not laying flat, and my partner likes to lay in it but not to sleep in it because it's too soft. I'm not sure if we just need a bigger bed, or a different kind of bed.

I'm 5'11" and 185 pounds, she's 5'6" and 315 pounds, and we'd also like space to occasionally have my other girlfriend (6' and 180 pounds) sleep in the bed as well. I usually sleep on my stomach, but I'm working on transitioning to sleeping on my side for back/neck pain reasons. She sleeps on her side.

The Purple hybrid seems very popular, and I'm intrigued by it - planning on making it out to a Mattress Firm to try it out. I've also been considering Foam Sweet Foam as it has good reviews on sleeplikethedead.com. Any suggestions?

Going to a king will get you an extra 16 inches in width, which will certainly better accommodate the third person. The price difference works out to be $400- $600 for the mattress (plus the cost of new bedding, support, etc).

The Purple hybrid is pretty firm for folks who sleep on their side, so keep that in mind. The Premier 3 is a much better seller because it is significantly kinder to side sleepers.

I'm unfamiliar with the mattress you linked, but I'm skeptical of some of their claims. I'm sure the product is fine, but it is difficult to believe that they can offer a 100% completely latex mattress for less than $3k. I also have no idea how they are giving weights with such certainty for a product that you can build yourself with layers of different densities. And the warranty is very, very strange. I'm 99% confident that if they stick to the letter of that warranty, they will have 0 warranty claims they have to fulfill. Dunlop latex isn't exactly known for its softness, so I'd just presume that their mattresses are going to be quite firm. If you've never tried latex before, it will certainly be different.

Please keep in mind that stomach sleepers typically require a firmer mattress than side sleepers, so if you're trying to transition to another sleeping position, what you need may not be precisely what you have had in the past, and may be quite different!

Hyperlynx
Sep 13, 2015

Just realised something relevant to ask: I tend to sweat quite a lot. Do I need to be wary of specific materials?

From an internet search I'm reading conflicting information. I see mentions that latex doesn't cope with moisture, and other claims that it copes with it just fine. I see that memory foam is hot, meaning you sweat more, but also the moisture can drain out the bottom and evaporate?

e: also, thinking of trying IKEA and trying to search this thread first, I ran across

Robot Mil posted:

Does anyone have any experience with the Hjellestad from Ikea? I'm a side sleeper and find most beds too firm - I often wake up with tingling or numb arms etc. I saw a review site for Ikea beds that suggested this one is good for side sleepers. I'm looking at Ikea as we are moving from furnished to unfurnished so need one we can get delivered on a specific day so we actually have something to sleep on...

Different scenario, but I could have posted almost exactly the same thing. Are Ikea mattresses reasonable? They don't seem to have anything "soft" except for a foam mattress for extendable bed. Robot Mil, if you're still around: how did it work out for you? :D

Hyperlynx fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 28, 2023

pastor of muppets
Aug 21, 2007

We were somewhere around the Living Hive, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold...

We gave up on the Leesa Sapira. Tried stomping on it to break it in faster, tried adding a topper, still way too firm for our liking. This week we spent an unholy amount of money on a Tempurpedic LuxeAdapt in Soft, with an adjustable base. I admit, I still kind of miss the cloud-like texture of a pillow top, but I don’t think I’ve slept this well in a long time.

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




pastor of muppets posted:

We gave up on the Leesa Sapira. Tried stomping on it to break it in faster, tried adding a topper, still way too firm for our liking. This week we spent an unholy amount of money on a Tempurpedic LuxeAdapt in Soft, with an adjustable base. I admit, I still kind of miss the cloud-like texture of a pillow top, but I don’t think I’ve slept this well in a long time.

That is my second favorite bed of all of the ones we sell at Mattress Firm, and you certainly shouldn't have an issue with it being too firm!

Hyperlynx posted:

Just realised something relevant to ask: I tend to sweat quite a lot. Do I need to be wary of specific materials?

From an internet search I'm reading conflicting information. I see mentions that latex doesn't cope with moisture, and other claims that it copes with it just fine. I see that memory foam is hot, meaning you sweat more, but also the moisture can drain out the bottom and evaporate?

e: also, thinking of trying IKEA and trying to search this thread first, I ran across

Different scenario, but I could have posted almost exactly the same thing. Are Ikea mattresses reasonable? They don't seem to have anything "soft" except for a foam mattress for extendable bed. Robot Mil, if you're still around: how did it work out for you? :D

With respect to cooling, it's... complicated.

With the broadest strokes, if you're in the sub $1.5k price point, you probably don't need to worry too much about what is in the mattress, specifically, to keep it cool. Materials typically aren't sophisticated and dense enough to hold on to heat that much. You'll get significantly more mileage out of what linens and pillows you are using. Stay away from microfiber, limit your polyester, and keep your thread counts under 600 for best results; if you really want to chase cooling textiles, look for rayon, lyocell, Tencel, or linen (in a rough order from least to most cool).

Also, IKEA does not have soft mattresses. They're all quite firm by American standards, but I'm less familiar with Australian standards (as I gather from the IKEA link). Their soft mattress is a shade softer than a firm BeautyRest, for example.

pastor of muppets
Aug 21, 2007

We were somewhere around the Living Hive, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold...

Synastren posted:


That is my second favorite bed of all of the ones we sell at Mattress Firm, and you certainly shouldn't have an issue with it being too firm!


Yeah, it rocks! I think I'm still probably waking up just as often as I did on our old pillow top, but instead of laying awake for 30 minutes to an hour, it's like my body is going "shhhhh, you're fine, go back to sleep" and I'm out again after a few seconds. The only thing I'm a little concerned about is the longevity; I know they generally last a long time, but my husband is on the larger side (6'2" and ~300 lbs) so we are a little worried about it wearing out faster. He is currently losing weight though, so I think if he can even shed around 50 lbs this year, that will probably help.

Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




pastor of muppets posted:

Yeah, it rocks! I think I'm still probably waking up just as often as I did on our old pillow top, but instead of laying awake for 30 minutes to an hour, it's like my body is going "shhhhh, you're fine, go back to sleep" and I'm out again after a few seconds. The only thing I'm a little concerned about is the longevity; I know they generally last a long time, but my husband is on the larger side (6'2" and ~300 lbs) so we are a little worried about it wearing out faster. He is currently losing weight though, so I think if he can even shed around 50 lbs this year, that will probably help.

Keep in mind the break-in period on a Tempurpedic is around two months, so some discomfort is normal, and you should expect to not have everything fixed right away. In 2-3 months, though, you should notice a significant improvement over where you are now, even (presuming you recently received it).

Also, the warranty on those things is legit. As long as you have a mattress protector, I'd estimate it to be a solid decade-long performer, at least, regardless of his weight. If the body impression generated is more than .75 inches, the bed has failed, so... you've got that, at least!

pastor of muppets
Aug 21, 2007

We were somewhere around the Living Hive, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold...

Returned the Sapira this week. Leesa's return process was very painless. It's a shame because I really wanted to like the mattress, but it just wasn't for us. We're house hunting right now and I would've considered keeping it for our future guest bedroom, but I just don't have the space to hang on to it in the meantime.

Loving our LuxeAdapt more every day though!

Tiggum
Oct 24, 2007

Your life and your quest end here.


I want a new mattress but I have never bought a mattress before. How do I pick a good one and not get ripped off?

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




Tiggum posted:

I want a new mattress but I have never bought a mattress before. How do I pick a good one and not get ripped off?

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3813333&userid=87117

Tiggum
Oct 24, 2007

Your life and your quest end here.



This is a lot of posts. I don't know what I'm supposed to be looking for here.

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

Tiggum posted:

This is a lot of posts. I don't know what I'm supposed to be looking for here.

When I went shopping for a mattress, I basically read this entire thread. This thread is a gold mine of information provided by Synastren (and others), along side personal anecdotes that are (probably) not a product of a review bot. I don't think it'd be a stretch to say that this thread is a premier source of mattress-related information on the Internet.

All that said, I'd just read the entire thread.

Canine Blues Arooo fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Mar 6, 2023

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




Basically you need to go to a mattress store, e.g. Mattress Firm or American Mattress, and talk to someone there. Hopefully they know a few things. The right mattress for you depends on several things like: are you a back/side/stomach sleeper, do you sleep hot, do you have any pain spots when you wake up (and if so, where), do you prefer your mattress to be firm or plush or somewhere in between? And other things I'm sure I'm forgetting.

And if you're sharing this mattress, your partner's answers to the above.

Seriously, try reading/skimming the thread or at least Synastren's posts in it linked above. There are a lot of helpful pointers that you should consider.

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Synastren
Nov 8, 2005

Bad at Starcraft 2.
Better at psychology.
Psychology Megathread




Tiggum posted:

I want a new mattress but I have never bought a mattress before. How do I pick a good one and not get ripped off?

Shopping online is a craps shoot. You might get lucky and get something that works well, or you might get overhyped garbage, or you might get something fine that doesn't really fit you.

Unless you have a specific number in your head, there isn't really a "ripped off" watermark. I've sold folks beds that were a couple hundred and that was fine, and I've worked with folks that pretty much demanded five figure products. Everyone is different, and more expensive does not necessarily mean better.

If you have to self-guide, you can boil down a novice mattress sales guy strategy somewhat easily:
  • Find a collection with soft/medium/firm options that is in an acceptable price range (note: for best results, go to the top of your budget)
  • Try them in this order: medium -> firm -> soft. Take your time, lay down in your normal sleeping position. And, to stress again: take your time.
  • After you find your fav feel, try a mattress one price tier down, and one up (if you can). Your goal is to see if you feel a significant difference. If yes, go for the one that feels the best that you can afford. If not, go for the cheapest one you like.
  • You may also want to consider different kinds of construction (e.g., hybrid vs foam vs innerspring).

Things to focus on while you try these:
  • Pressure points, particularly where you normally have them
  • Your back should be in a relatively natural posture, so attend to any tilting or sagging.
  • Ease of movement (laterally, getting in/out, rolling over).

Pressure in 5 minutes is pain in 5 hours. Go for something without pressure more than something you like. Trust me on that one.

If you want specific guidance, you can PM me or post here and I'll help how I can!

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

When I went shopping for a mattress, I basically read this entire thread. This thread is a gold mine of information provided by Synastren (and others), along side personal anecdotes that are (probably) not a product of a review bot. I don't think it'd be a stretch to say that this thread is a premier source of mattress-related information on the Internet.

All that said, I'd just read the entire thread.

:3:

TITTIEKISSER69 posted:

Basically you need to go to a mattress store, e.g. Mattress Firm or American Mattress, and talk to someone there. Hopefully they know a few things. The right mattress for you depends on several things like: are you a back/side/stomach sleeper, do you sleep hot, do you have any pain spots when you wake up (and if so, where), do you prefer your mattress to be firm or plush or somewhere in between? And other things I'm sure I'm forgetting.

And if you're sharing this mattress, your partner's answers to the above.

Seriously, try reading/skimming the thread or at least Synastren's posts in it linked above. There are a lot of helpful pointers that you should consider.

:3: :3:

Got the fuzzies, thanks! I'm glad I have helped some fellow goons navigate something few folks know anything about!

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