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Pharnakes posted:OK so I have an ancient ford focus 2004 16.l petrol, which I got a couple of years ago and has until this morning ran perfectly fine. Obviously a car this old could crap at any moment, but the timing is rather weird. I drove it 50 miles this morning, started up fine and was completely normal for a few miles until I filled the tank up, after that I soon as I pulled off from the station I noticed something was wrong, I initially thought I had a flat tire because it was very hesitant and jerky, pulled over and that wasn't it. Step one is to pull your code(s)
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Jan 15, 2023 21:34
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Honestly my immediate first reaction is bad gas. It happens sometimes. I wouldn’t drive it. My first step was going to be to siphon the tank and put something else in, it also occurs to me it was sitting with 1/3rd of a tank or less for a few weeks in pretty cold weather, I wonder if it could be a condensation issue, except I don't really see why refuelling it would exacerbate the issue. opengl posted:Step one is to pull your code(s) What would I need to do that? Obviously budget is a significant concern with a car worth so little, It's probably worth less than a couple of hours of labour at any garage around here.
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Jan 15, 2023 21:46
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You can buy a generic OBD2 code reader for less than a hundred bucks and it will also work for things that aren’t your Ford Focus.
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Jan 15, 2023 22:05
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I think it's more useful to run Waze or something like that and stay alert. Speed traps usually get flagged in the apps. Otherwise, regardless of legality in your jurisdiction if you are running a radar detector the cop will give you a ticket. You're not going to be able to talk your way out of it. I'm not actually reckless, and the 100 was hit on a very specific piece of highway that I've used for speedtesting purposes before due to it being well-suited to it. I'm not aggro like I was when I was younger and had a car around this performance level. Part of my concern is that my state has a stupidly low speed limit on the Interstates - whereas most of the western US has the Interstate speed limit at 75mph, my state has it at 65mph. Everyone, cops included, tend to treat it as 75mph despite the signage, but it means that tickets can be significant due to the effective 10mph inflation of the artificially low speed limit.
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Jan 15, 2023 22:29
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You can buy a generic OBD2 code reader for less than a hundred bucks and it will also work for things that aren’t your Ford Focus. I'm seeing to put it mildly a massive price range on these things, I've never worked with an engine that has any kind of plug in capability, the most modern engine I've ever touched is probably a perkins sabre from the late 80s. Is there any kind of guide to what features are actually needed/worth it anywhere?
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Jan 15, 2023 23:08
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I’ve bought multiples of this one at $25. Shows codes, clears codes, shows emissions indicators, standalone. MOTOPOWER MP69033 Car OBD2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3HB7DR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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Jan 15, 2023 23:34
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Pharnakes posted:I'm seeing to put it mildly a massive price range on these things, I've never worked with an engine that has any kind of plug in capability, the most modern engine I've ever touched is probably a perkins sabre from the late 80s. Is there any kind of guide to what features are actually needed/worth it anywhere? Cheap is perfectly fine. You want the ability to read codes and clear codes, including emissions related codes. You won't know what they mean, but then you take that to google or the 1st gen focus owner forums to find out.
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Jan 16, 2023 00:10
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smackfu posted:I’ve bought multiples of this one at $25. You can spend even less than that if you don't mind googling the codes after pulling them. https://smile.amazon.com/Autel-Maxi...ps%2C92&sr=8-10
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Jan 16, 2023 00:12
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You can buy a generic OBD2 code reader for less than a hundred bucks and it will also work for things that aren’t your Ford Focus. I like the little Bluetooth ones that work with your smart phone. Torque is the Android app for this. What's the Apple one, anybody?
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Jan 16, 2023 02:34
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Are there any recommended books for technical rotary engine stuff?
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Jan 16, 2023 02:50
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Pharnakes posted:I'm seeing to put it mildly a massive price range on these things, I've never worked with an engine that has any kind of plug in capability, the most modern engine I've ever touched is probably a perkins sabre from the late 80s. Is there any kind of guide to what features are actually needed/worth it anywhere? My guy, do you have a Ford Motor Company affiliated dealership in your area you can feasibly have this vehicle towed to at low cost? Or a corner indie shop that can tackle this? I like to do my own work when I can (admittedly not often, downside of no house with garage etc. etc. ) but sometimes engine problems are beyond the wheelhouse of all but the most dedicated Shadetree Steves I should know I own an Audi! Sometimes it’s beyond a shadetree steve or even a corner Kevin and I trust a certified tech with a major metro dealer most. Even if a lot of corner guys and gals could probably do it no problem, it’s usually a bit lower risk for me. e: Oh I’m sorry the above is with the assumption you want to pour any amount of maintenance money into this particular Ford. If not go hog wild and tear her open preferably while posting about it. I'm going to spend 5 mins looking for a cheap code reader that meets my standard in TYOOL 2023. e2: I have given up and will say why. The only one I would be comfortable buying now online in 5 mins search would be this one, but it is not the cheapest option probably. https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-B...d=AD7D9D1JAFECP The rest of the market seems diluted with highly suspect garbage the last few years, Chinese popup companies etc. You might want to check out Autozone et al, big name or small name part store's offerings in your area as they'll have a couple across the price range. Retailer websites usually have pretty good search and if you're lucky have 'best selling' filter which helps to sort out most of garbage listings. https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Code-Readers-Scan-Tools/zgbs/automotive/15707381 There is amazon's but many of the listings will be plagued by poor quality 3rd party sellers and bot reviews so cannot vouch for much really  e3: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bafx+obd2+reader&i=automotive&crid=31XF14GOEV93V&sprefix=bafx+obd2+reader%2Cautomotive%2C104&ref=nb_sb_noss Man those links (and this post) are long, this one is for BAFX, those first two products depending which smartphone you have are a good bet and are relatively trusted. (have not used them so cannot vouch). Last thing I can suggest is to ask a certified mechanic in your area. They might have a suggestion for a cheapie 
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Jan 16, 2023 |
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Jan 16, 2023 03:34
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I've been using basically the cheapest one on Amazon for several years now. Works fine for Android, for iPhone you need either a WiFi one or on later iphones one that supports BLE not plain Bluetooth, up to you to figure that out as I'm not sure when iPhone bt stack started supporting the serial comms profile. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074DWH8JR I use it with torque pro app, which is a whopping $5 on the play store. Should work on nearly any 96+ car for basic OBD2 functionality (check ECU and TCU codes, pending codes, monitors, live sensor data). For advanced stuff like BCM, ABS, ACU, ETC, ESC you may need a manufacturer specific app and or adapter, but I wouldn't bother buying any of that stuff unless you actually care about the car. kastein fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Jan 16, 2023 |
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Jan 16, 2023 11:42
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I've used this one most recently and it works perfectly fine: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951258002.html (E: probably the same exact one as above) It seems to understand more sensors compared to an older ELM clone I've had for years. Still seems to be missing some values like EGR position, and there's no way to send commands either. This could be a limitation of my 20 year old cars though  Anyway, if nothing else for the price and seize it's good to just toss one of these in every car you have.
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Jan 16, 2023 15:44
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Do the super cheap Bluetooth ones give you better than OBD (like Forscan) if you have the right software or do you need a special reader?
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Jan 16, 2023 19:05
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Hoping y'all can help me with an issue on a 2005 Honda Pilot Was driving home and noticed the car got sluggish, especially going up hills on the highway. The tranny felt like it was pulsating and trying to downshift but couldn't. Immediately pulled over, checked the tranny fluid and oil and everything looked fine. Got back on the highway and drove fine until 10 mins in when the sluggishness came back and this time when I pulled over I smelled coolant in the cabin. Uh oh.. The whole time I had my eye on the temp gauge and it was exactly where it was supposed to be, but the car was smoky because of burning coolant. Saw coolant behind the throttle body but no obvious hose leaks. It was Sunday night and I was lucky to get a tow truck out and it's at a shop now that's over 100 miles from me, who seems to think doing a full teardown is OK (I had to stop them quick and ask them to do a pressure test first and not do anything else). I'm going to try and get my car somewhere closer to home, but wondering if there's anything else that could be the culprit? I would think a coolant leak would cause overheating, but the temp was running normal. What has me concerned is the sluggishness of the car. Part of me thinks a transmission cooler hose blew out because there's no temp sensor for it, and would explain the engine issues when hot. I figure it could be anything at this point, but tossing this out there in case anyone has an idea. If it's a blown head gasket I'm going to cry because it's going to be expensive and I just paid a boatload to get the timing belt/water pump changed (like 6 months ago).
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Jan 17, 2023 02:33
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transmission cooler lines cool the ATF, they don't have glycol coolant in them. if you had a coolant leak, it's not that. the pressure test is a good idea, since a little pinhole leak is hard to see with the engine off/cold. is your temp gauge a real gauge?
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Jan 17, 2023 02:52
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Follow up with my 2012 explorer which is jerking @ 1500 rpm when shifting… So I checked the transmission fluid and it was low. I added a quart and checked it again. It shows up between the min/max lines like it should now however it did not stop the jerking. I guess we shall see what the mechanics think but I’m concerned I’m about to buy a new transmission.
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Jan 17, 2023 03:09
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Raluek posted:transmission cooler lines cool the ATF, they don't have glycol coolant in them. if you had a coolant leak, it's not that. Gotcha. Yes it's a real gauge, it starts off on "C" and after driving for 5 minutes it goes slightly below halfway.
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Jan 17, 2023 03:32
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Are radar detectors useful anymore, or have cops gone to laser or something to check speed? I noticed that Google maps will alert you to speed traps ahead if you're using navigation - is that the best there is, or is there a go-to option for trying to be forewarned about speed traps? Mostly concerned about the Interstates - I almost never see any kind of traffic enforcement anywhere else. I had a radar detector even in a place where the guns were lasers, it was still pretty useful. Even if the guns were lasers something on their trucks and bikes set it off (onboard radar?) if they were on. Also I was going on a lot of road trips at the time and it caught some speedtraps in small towns; I wasn't going fast but a reminder to be aware of my speed and weary of sudden limit drops was nice for me. With that said this was pre or early Waze so this was a bit necessary, and there were constant, constant false positives and that's likely way worse now. I ended up losing the charger when I changed cars and the good ones went from being like $45 to $200 and that was the end of my time using them.
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Jan 17, 2023 04:01
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Bank posted:Gotcha. Yes it's a real gauge, it starts off on "C" and after driving for 5 minutes it goes slightly below halfway. That's an idiot light disguised as a guage. Real gaugea will show fluctuation, and will typically have a relatively slow rise to the normal operating temp. Under heavy load and high ambient a real guage will creep up, but an idiot light disguised as a guage will stay in the normal position until you overheat at which point it will promptly indicate 'H' If you've got a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader you can monitor actual reported coolant temp, otherwise a handheld pyrometer aimed at the radiator or visible coolant pipes will get you pretty close. Otherwise make sure you top up if you're losing coolant while you diagnose or bring it a shop.
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Jan 17, 2023 04:52
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melon cat posted:Here’s another angle of the spark plug. It was the only other angle I took a pic of as I needed to drive out somewhere. Auto engineer here working on relevant parts. Those plugs COULD (doesn't mean should) probably go back in and be fine but they ARE due for a replacement. As you've got them out anyway, I would advise you to just replace them. As for the P0138, that's basically a heater code and you've likely got a physically damaged sensor. Check the harness for damage as well before replacing if there isn't obvious damage to the sensor, but it's not unlikely that water entered the sensor or something and caused an open inside; damage to the harness is also common and can also cause an open - in this case, damage should be obvious.
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Jan 17, 2023 04:59
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). P0138 Bank 1 Sensor 2. Dealership I bought from said it was an oxygen sensor issue
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smackfu posted:Do the super cheap Bluetooth ones give you better than OBD (like Forscan) if you have the right software or do you need a special reader? The generic as poo poo one I nabbed at a junkyard works fine with FORScan. So did the $15 one I had from Amazon. The cheap ones almost universally have the same stolen ELM327 chipset in them. The only real difference is what speed they can communicate at, which isn't that important until you want to do data logging of more than 1 or 2 things.
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Jan 17, 2023 20:48
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Shop called me back about my Pilot, they said the transmission is dead. I might try to get a second opinion just in case, but sure sounds like I'll need to be browsing the car recommendations thread soon.
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Jan 17, 2023 21:33
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Bank posted:Shop called me back about my Pilot, they said the transmission is dead. I might try to get a second opinion just in case, but sure sounds like I'll need to be browsing the car recommendations thread soon. How much to replace the transmission? In today's car market I think I rather just sink a big one time fix into an otherwise known good vehicle than gamble on something else from the used market. On the other hand, I read your post history in this thread and you may have gotten your money out of this car. You spent 5K on it back in mid 2017 right? Not bad for over 5 years of driving. Will putting 5K into it get you another 5 years?
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Jan 17, 2023 21:56
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Explorer update: Transmission is fine. It's my coils. That's going to be $1200 all said and done to replace all 6, plugs, etc, but he said I should easily get another 70k miles out of it. Got 130k on the originals.
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Jan 17, 2023 22:10
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otter posted:Explorer update: Transmission is fine. It's my coils. That's going to be $1200 all said and done to replace all 6, plugs, etc, but he said I should easily get another 70k miles out of it. Got 130k on the originals. That seems...really expensive. OE coils are $61/ea on Rockauto, and plugs are like $5-$10/ea depending how fancy you wanna get.
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Jan 17, 2023 22:31
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opengl posted:That seems...really expensive. OE coils are $61/ea on Rockauto, and plugs are like $5-$10/ea depending how fancy you wanna get. There's a big price difference between buying the parts off RA and doing it yourself and dealership prices. MSRP on each coil from Ford is 121 dollars. It's expensive to have professionals work on a vehicle. 1200 from the dealer is in line with what I would expect. Probably 800 in parts, a couple hours of labor, shop supplies, tax, and yeah it's 1200 bucks. It's a job I would do myself, and I find it unlikely all 6 coils need to be replaced at the same time, but I'm comfortable working on my own vehicle.
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Jan 17, 2023 22:55
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skipdogg posted:There's a big price difference between buying the parts off RA and doing it yourself and dealership prices. MSRP on each coil from Ford is 121 dollars. And few professionals are going to use coils from rockauto when factory is available. Comebacks cost money for them. Why would they use cheap parts? Aftermarket parts have been a goddamn minefield lately.
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Jan 17, 2023 23:07
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I love using OE parts and will pay oodles more if it’s not excessive. Chinese factories over the past decade+ have just exploded with an ability to make anything and sell it. At any quality. Picking a brand is more important today than before, I think, for certain goods like car parts. Certain car parts where it matters.
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Jan 17, 2023 23:53
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The $61 coils I mentioned are OE Motorcraft, there were plenty of questionable cheaper options. Yes I know most shops aren't going to install/warranty parts you provide yourself, I would just have a hard time paying so much for a relatively simple job. Also agreed it's unlikely it even needs all six.
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Jan 17, 2023 23:54
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opengl posted:The $61 coils I mentioned are OE Motorcraft, there were plenty of questionable cheaper options. Yes I know most shops aren't going to install/warranty parts you provide yourself, I would just have a hard time paying so much for a relatively simple job. Well, that's the other things then. First of all, they're gonna call the parts house/dealership that delivers same day. Space costs money. Your car being there takes space. Relatively simple job, but they have a facility, insurance, payroll and taxes to pay for. So please feel free to not use a professional. But it's not "really expensive". It's a low profit margin business that has realities to deal with the makes everything cost more money.
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Jan 17, 2023 23:59
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Motronic posted:And few professionals are going to use coils from rockauto when factory is available. Comebacks cost money for them. Why would they use cheap parts? Aftermarket parts have been a goddamn minefield lately. Still a big difference between OE and Aftermarket. OE should be the same part or near enough as the original, but way cheaper. Aftermarket is a minefield like you said. There's a couple of trustworthy brands out there still though like Denso, NGK, Bosch, etc, and some terrible ones (dorman anyone?)
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Jan 18, 2023 00:00
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spankmeister posted:Still a big difference between OE and Aftermarket. OE should be the same part or near enough as the original, but way cheaper. Aftermarket is a minefield like you said. There's a couple of trustworthy brands out there still though like Denso, NGK, Bosch, etc, and some terrible ones (dorman anyone?) Why would the OE part be "way" cheaper if it's "the same part or near enough"? I've seen that happen in some cases, but not too many. Also understand "binning" of parts where you may be buying form the OEM but it's an inferior grade that they could not sell to the manufacturer. I've had failures with all three brands you listed when using them for applications where they aren't the OEM or with OE parts. Dorman is generally pretty low quality yet turns out some amazing "nobody has done it any better" parts that fix manufacturer fuckups like the venerable ford diesel valve cover gaskets. There are no cheap answers here. Unless you do your own work and value your time at zero and don't have to pay to get towed home.
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Jan 18, 2023 00:09
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skipdogg posted:How much to replace the transmission? In today's car market I think I rather just sink a big one time fix into an otherwise known good vehicle than gamble on something else from the used market.  At least this rental I moved into has a garage, so I can take my time.
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Jan 18, 2023 01:06
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The $1200 is me rounding up. He figured the labor at 270 I think it was, the coils were $122 each, plus good spark plugs, wires, etc, comes with a 2 year warranty, etc. I figure it at &120/year for the next 10 years assuming it gets the same lifespan as the last set. And he said the others aren’t failing now, but expects they would in the next couple of years so it’s time / energy savings for me to do it all at once since I can drop it off Friday morning and get it home Friday afternoon.
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Jan 18, 2023 03:17
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Motronic posted:And few professionals are going to use coils from rockauto when factory is available. Comebacks cost money for them. Why would they use cheap parts? Aftermarket parts have been a goddamn minefield lately. Rockauto sells the OEM Motorcraft coils, and the price opengl quoted is very likely Motorcraft. I would NEVER, EVER use aftermarket coils in a Ford coil on plug application - all of the aftermarket (yes, even MSD) are very well known for failing. Unless you're going to some insanely high HP build where the stock coils aren't cutting it (and they're pretty drat strong), Motorcraft all the way when it comes to Ford coils. The shop that tuned my car swears up and down by Motorcraft coils + NGK plugs until you're getting into major boost. That rant out of the way, the dealer is always going to get them themselves. Any good shop will, like you said. They have no idea if the parts you're supplying are genuine. From Rockauto, I'd trust them to be genuine - Amazon, not at all. skipdogg posted:There's a big price difference between buying the parts off RA and doing it yourself and dealership prices. MSRP on each coil from Ford is 121 dollars. It's one of those things where if one has failed, there's a reasonable chance that the others probably aren't far behind. OP should ask to keep the known good originals though; Fords are notorious for eating coils, having known good spares (especially if you have a 4.6 or 5.4; I know that's not what we're talking about here, but still) is a good idea in case you find yourself with a dead one in BFE. otter posted:And he said the others aren’t failing now, but expects they would in the next couple of years Bingo, and this is what I'd be doing on my own car too - I'd rather cry once instead of dealing with them failing one by one over the next year or two. Ask if you can keep the known good ones; if you can, keep at least one in the car. If/when one fails in the future, you can swap it and be back on the road for a bit. Look up how to change them, and keep the tools with you. At least on my car (Crown Victoria, 4.6L V8), it's just a 7mm wrench. The electrical plugs were brittle on mine, I wound up replacing them awhile back. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jan 18, 2023 |
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Jan 18, 2023 05:15
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Motronic posted:Why would the OE part be "way" cheaper if it's "the same part or near enough"? I've seen that happen in some cases, but not too many. Also understand "binning" of parts where you may be buying form the OEM but it's an inferior grade that they could not sell to the manufacturer. Because buying parts from the dealer often comes with (much) more of a markup. Binning of parts, idk I've never seen any real evidence of that, just anecdotes. quote:I've had failures with all three brands you listed when using them for applications where they aren't the OEM or with OE parts. I've had failures with dealer parts. Which were exchanged at the dealer for a replacement and promptly failed immediately again. My point was, don't go aftermarket but if you _have_ to, don't buy cheap crap, go for a name brand. quote:Dorman is generally pretty low quality yet turns out some amazing "nobody has done it any better" parts that fix manufacturer fuckups like the venerable ford diesel valve cover gaskets. Sure but would you buy a MAF from them? Crank sensor? Anything electronic? Agreed, there are no easy answers here. If you're running a shop, dealer parts seem like the obvious choice, until other factors come into play like availability. If the part you need is on backorder for 6 weeks you might go for OE if the customer really needs their car back. Or if the customer is on a really tight budget. But you also might decide not to use anything aftermarket ever, because you don't feel comfortable guaranteeing your work otherwise. Up to you as the business owner. If you're DIYing then I would check pricing between dealer and OE and if there is a significant cost difference (there usually is) I'd always go for OE, to save money. But that's me. Appreciate your thoughts.
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Jan 18, 2023 08:16
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I bought a dorman power window switch for the superduty. It's a crunchy piece of poo poo but it works. But I paid like $15 for it rather than the local retail $60. I may blend some parts of the dead motocraft switch with it to make it 'nicer'. No, I would not recommend putting dorman engine management components on an engine. Their problem solver metal door handle grabs and poo poo like that rule though. Yerok just posted that the Dorman 7.3 one piece valve cover gaskets are back to the two piece shits again. Ugh. Yerok posted:Well the 7.3 compression numbers were good for 330k miles. All cylinders right around 360-370 psi cold.
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Jan 18, 2023 17:16
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Raluek posted:transmission cooler lines cool the ATF, they don't have glycol coolant in them. if you had a coolant leak, it's not that. While I figure out how to get my car towed home, I've been doing a shitload of reading about this Pilot and might give it one last shot before donating it to charity (or just parting it out). I found out the radiator has coolant going through it for the motor, along with an ATF line:  Reading online, the radiator is a common failure point where the ATF gets mixed in with coolant. I remember my coolant being a bit dark, and that was probably due to the ATF. With how my car was running, it sure seems like coolant got into the transmission, and I'm hoping I stopped in time to prevent damage to it. People say the coolant overflow turns into a "strawberry milkshake" but I certainly didn't see that. My plan is to throw another $300 bucks at this and hope to fix it. If it doesn't get fixed, well, I tried and I can figure out the plan for getting rid of the car. I'm going to replace the radiator, hoses, flush out the coolant, do an ATF drain/fill, and cross my fingers. If it drives fine, I'll do 2-3 more drain/fills after driving it for a bit to try and get all the crap out.
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Jan 18, 2023 19:27
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You'll see strawberry milkshake in the transmission fluid if that's happened. And most cars use that setup - Ford moved the ATF cooler to the AC condenser (wut) for most models awhile back, but pretty much everyone else shares it with the radiator. If you were low AT ALL on coolant (and since you saw steam, you're low on coolant), the overflow won't get anything in it. Pop the radiator cap with the engine cold (I cannot emphasize that enough, do this after the car has sat overnight) and start the engine, you should see coolant start moving through it once the engine warms up - you'll be able to see what's actually going through the engine. Don't put your face directly over the opening, in case it decides to burp or boil. Have you ever topped it off with non-Honda ATF? Honda automatics are EXTREMELY picky about the fluid you use in them. Luckily they don't hold a whole lot, so you can start off with a drain/fill of whatever flavor it uses (most likely ATF-Z1/DW-1). Funny enough, GM/AC Delco sells it too - they used a Honda drivetrain in a few years of the V6 Saturn Vue (J35 w/5 speed automatic). It's possible that the coolant leak was causing a misfire (you DO have a coolant leak if you saw steam), and the reduced power was enough to make it seem like it wouldn't downshift. It's also possible that one of the solenoids on the transmission crapped out. Luckily for you, Honda puts them on the outside of the transmission (or used to, anyway). Generally when a Honda transmission detects an issue, the D or D3 light on your dash will start flashing, and it'll force itself into 2nd gear for the rest of the drive. You'll (usually) also get a check engine light. Shuddering sounds a lot more like a bad misfire than a transmission issue. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jan 18, 2023 |
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Jan 18, 2023 21:32
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