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Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

More picture frame adventures lately. I picked up a brand new Logan point driver for half of retail from Marketplace, and then a few days later I drove ~200 miles to get a brand new Logan Compact Elite mat cutter for $15

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bacon Terrorist posted:

Hey goons, I am a moron who is barely able to perform the simplest of DIY tasks. I looked at the OP but it's 15 years old so figured I may aswell ask here: I need a desk for my home office, I've been looking at corner desks but it seems in these post covid times you don't get much bang for your buck these days (at least in the UK).

I do however have 3 x 3m long planks of pitch pine in my shed back from when I moved in years ago and took some shelving down. As an admitted idiot, is there a flaw in my plan of cuttinflg all the planks in half and making 2 x 3 plank wide desks that can be configured as a corner desk? I figure if I joint them together (biscuit better than dowel?) And glue with clamps, sand it off and finish with some danish oil and metal legs I can't go far wrong, but I'm happy to be told if this is a foolish plan.

It's reasonable if the lumber is usable. I'm not too familiar with pitch pine, nor do you indicate the thickness & width of the boards?
Biscuits over dowels, yes, if the boards are not reasonably straight.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Is resawing a strip of butcher block a bad idea? I was thinking of splitting 1.5” thick piece in half to use a side splash.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Calidus posted:

Is resawing a strip of butcher block a bad idea? I was thinking of splitting 1.5” thick piece in half to use a side splash.

is it end grain up butcher block, or just lots of sticks glued edge grain up "butcher block"? how wide is it? also do you have a band saw?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Leperflesh posted:

is it end grain up butcher block, or just lots of sticks glued edge grain up "butcher block"? how wide is it? also do you have a band saw?

It’s just sticks glued together, it’s “cheap” stuff from Lowes. I currently have a 25x6x1.5 chunk of it left over. I could do it in two passes with my table saw. I don’t have a band saw.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

If it's thin enough to do on the table saw, yeah no problem. It's likely dense wood, go at an even pace and use appropriate devices to push it through. Keep it dead upright. Kickback with a deep cut on an upright piece is a significant danger, don't allow the workpiece to twist or tip at all or the saw may grab it and hurl it backwards. Take several passes if necessary.

I'd much rather do resawing on the bandsaw though. Far safer, and you can do it in one continuous cut.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
After some reading it sounds like I need some feather boards and it’s recommended that you don’t cut it wall the way through with a table saw. You cut that very center out by hand then plane the two pieces.

Anyone have push blocks or feather boards that they like? They seem to basically be the same.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
More stupid new person poo poo. Picture frame and end grain cutting board under my belt are both wins.

I want to replace my wire form shelves in my pantry with wood. Easy mode seems like it would be ply but I’ve really been enjoying working with solid wood. Are there any tips or good reading material on doing panel glue ups for shelves, or maybe floating shelves? My we searches haven’t find me a ton of useful poo poo, mostly just Pinterest links.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Sadi posted:

More stupid new person poo poo. Picture frame and end grain cutting board under my belt are both wins.

I want to replace my wire form shelves in my pantry with wood. Easy mode seems like it would be ply but I’ve really been enjoying working with solid wood. Are there any tips or good reading material on doing panel glue ups for shelves, or maybe floating shelves? My we searches haven’t find me a ton of useful poo poo, mostly just Pinterest links.

I search Stumpy nubs + whatever he has great videos: https://stumpynubs.com/pro-tips-for-table-tops-counters-and-panel-glueups/. The OP also has lots of links to websites and books.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I also had nothing but problems with GluBot. I like the ketchup and mustard bottles with the "no-crust" valve.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Calidus posted:

After some reading it sounds like I need some feather boards and it’s recommended that you don’t cut it wall the way through with a table saw. You cut that very center out by hand then plane the two pieces.

Anyone have push blocks or feather boards that they like? They seem to basically be the same.

I have a magnetic one, from Magswitch (this one, probably been replaced with a newer model by now) but it's not really ideal for a tall narrow piece. It also sometimes doesn't work when I'm trying to lock it down and both magnets are over the miter slot. Still, it's effective and useful and wasn't expensive.

In addition to handmade wooden push sticks - I always have at least two at hand - I also have a Microjig Grr-ripper push block and that wasn't cheap but the movable fence and rubber bits in it really do work and I love it.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Selling plans now for my infinitely adjustable tablesaw taper jig:

My favorite jig ever.



Calidus posted:

After some reading it sounds like I need some feather boards and it’s recommended that you don’t cut it wall the way through with a table saw. You cut that very center out by hand then plane the two pieces.

Anyone have push blocks or feather boards that they like? They seem to basically be the same.
I make my own wood featherboards out of springy hardwood like oak or ash with a bunch of kerfs cut in and clamp them down to the saw top. If you make them out of 8/4 stuff they are great for tall skinny things. The magswitch thing is great except that it doesn’t work on the throat plate…which is where you need it to work.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Selling plans now for my infinitely adjustable tablesaw taper jig:

My favorite jig ever.

I’m already getting ads for bootleg versions on Instagram

revtoiletduck
Aug 21, 2006
smart newbie
I'll give you $500 for one made out of anodized aluminum.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Eee did you break into my shop? I have one that's identical. I don't mean in design I mean if you told me that was a pic of mine I'd believe you

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Calidus posted:

After some reading it sounds like I need some feather boards and it’s recommended that you don’t cut it wall the way through with a table saw. You cut that very center out by hand then plane the two pieces.

Anyone have push blocks or feather boards that they like? They seem to basically be the same.

I don't think my 10" tablesaw blade elevates to 3", but as an old-timey tablesaw user with no riving splitter or kickback thingy, even to me that sounds like a real dangerous move. My saw has 5 HP motor, and 3" hardwood would seriously be tasking it. Not to mention the 2nd cut with all kinds of shenanigans available. But mainly not to mention the real danger of that wood binding when you resaw it.

I WOULD NOT USE A TABLESAW HERE. Like Brother Leperflesh says, bandsaw 100%.


Sadi posted:

More stupid new person poo poo. Picture frame and end grain cutting board under my belt are both wins.

I want to replace my wire form shelves in my pantry with wood. Easy mode seems like it would be ply but I’ve really been enjoying working with solid wood. Are there any tips or good reading material on doing panel glue ups for shelves, or maybe floating shelves? My we searches haven’t find me a ton of useful poo poo, mostly just Pinterest links.

Get some maple or oak or w/e plywood and edge-band it with same. Far stabler than solid wood shelves, won't cup in a year.

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

You can always resaw by hand. It’s a great workout

Mister Kingdom
Dec 14, 2005

And the tears that fall
On the city wall
Will fade away
With the rays of morning light

PBCrunch posted:

I also had nothing but problems with GluBot. I like the ketchup and mustard bottles with the "no-crust" valve.

Those will crust up.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Seriously, just buy one of the titebond squeeze bottles and don't throw away the bottle when you use up the glue.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
I'd like to paint right next to freshly stained and coated stairs. The coating is minwax's oil-modified polyurethane. Will painters tape, the delicate kind, mess that up after 24hrs? That's what I'd wait for paint, but the product says not to clean for 7 days so adding adhesives might not be good either.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Bob Mundon posted:

Seriously, just buy one of the titebond squeeze bottles and don't throw away the bottle when you use up the glue.

It lasted for a long time, though it gave out eventually too. Recently I've been taking to tupperware containers and using a brush of piece of wood to smear out the glue.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Jenkl posted:

I'd like to paint right next to freshly stained and coated stairs. The coating is minwax's oil-modified polyurethane. Will painters tape, the delicate kind, mess that up after 24hrs? That's what I'd wait for paint, but the product says not to clean for 7 days so adding adhesives might not be good either.

Poly does take a while to fully harden, though 7 days seems excessive.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I tend to do glue by pouring the glue into a disposable shot glass or solo cup depending on how much I'm using. If it's just a small glue up I'll just get a long skinny stick and dip into the bottle because I'm a pervert.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



You guys don't use your God-given fingers to even glue out?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Mr. Mambold posted:

You guys don't use your God-given fingers to even glue out?

Of course, then you can lick up that delicious leftover polyvinyl acetate, yum.

Hobbes
Sep 12, 2000
Forum Veteran
Dinosaur Gum
Gluebot-style bottles have always worked great for me but mileage may vary it seems.

Mr. Mambold posted:

You guys don't use your God-given fingers to even glue out?

I have a small silicon roller that's ridged and it's great because the excess dries on it and you get the fun of peeling it off the roller the next day.

But mostly the bottom edge of my workbench is a tapestry of wood glue fingerprints where I wiped off stuff I spread around by hand. Who can be arsed to pull a roller applicator out of a drawer every time?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

I had an air leak issue on my glu-bot. I smeared some sugru (moldable silicone that cures semi-hard) on the inside of the cap to make a new gasket and it's worked great since

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I use glue straight out of the bottle it came in, that seems to work fine as long as I remember to push the cap back down (I often forget lol) but you can pry the cap off and clean it out with a pokey thing if you need to (I often do). Seems to last for years that way. Never felt like I needed anything else.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I had a cheap bandsaw that somebody rigged up with a cock-shortening belt setup when they replaced the motor. I wanted to keep this around to have a small blade for random little cutoffs.


I built a hinged motor mount from some scraps and rigged up a tensioner off the top hinge face.


The bench vise is also finally filled in below the motor but I’ll get back to that one day. Alternated some oak and cherry scraps to fill in above the bolts. I gotta be at like month three of getting a single vise installed on this bench. You know, because that also involved switching a leg vise for an under mount, realizing how poorly I made it when I was young and correcting it the best I could, and so on.

The old Craftsman is back in action again for random stuff after a few evenings of pissing around making something I’d never done before. The guides were replaced with hardwood jammed in there by the same wingnut who did the motor probably, so some guide locks are due before any serious work.


Having had enough of using the table saw to resaw, I went and picked up a more capable unit from the nicest old dude. He invited me in for a bite to eat as he just made a huge pot of stew. I kind of stammered as it just caught me off guard in the moment and the wife was with me :dafuq:

Smelled loving fantastic and I was halfway going along with it for dinner or maybe a touch of getting murdered if I didn’t remember she was waiting.

Anyways, bandsaw #2 in the fleet for actual cutting work.

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

That's a nice 2nd bandsaw.

Speaking of bandsaws. I've finally ruined most of the blades Matthias gave me and I need some new ones. Does anyone have a recommendation for Canada that won't break the bank?
Specifically I need 112"

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


keep it down up there! posted:

That's a nice 2nd bandsaw.

Speaking of bandsaws. I've finally ruined most of the blades Matthias gave me and I need some new ones. Does anyone have a recommendation for Canada that won't break the bank?
Specifically I need 112"

Lee valley has reasonably priced 111 inch band saw blades. I can't remember the exact brand I bought but they fit the rikon deluxe saws.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Can you get Timber Wolf brand blades in Canukistan? I've been finding them to be inexpensive and working fine.

e. they have a huge variety of woodworking blades.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

keep it down up there! posted:


Speaking of bandsaws. I've finally ruined most of the blades Matthias gave me and I need some new ones. Does anyone have a recommendation for Canada that won't break the bank?
Specifically I need 112"

Yes...Walmart.

Seriously.

Walmart re-sells for Woodcraft.com and you save all the import/shipping costs.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

keep it down up there! posted:

That's a nice 2nd bandsaw.

Speaking of bandsaws. I've finally ruined most of the blades Matthias gave me and I need some new ones. Does anyone have a recommendation for Canada that won't break the bank?
Specifically I need 112"

R&D bandsaws is where I get all my blades, they weld them to whatever length you need and they are top quality.

Their website isn't the greatest so I just call when I want to make an order https://tufftooth.com/

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

Thanks everyone! Lots of options there.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

R&D bandsaws is where I get all my blades, they weld them to whatever length you need and they are top quality.

Their website isn't the greatest so I just call when I want to make an order https://tufftooth.com/

This place is actually local for me, awesome.

keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jan 20, 2023

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I am really happy with how the butcher block countertop and cabinets worked out. I still need to make a false drawer front for the cabinet and touch up the paint. Ripping 8ft butcher block wasn’t as bad as I expected.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

did you have any trouble cutting the sink hole?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

Leperflesh posted:

did you have any trouble cutting the sink hole?

I’m definitely not cutting undermount sinks any time soon. I used fostner bits to drill out the 4 corners and get the radius required, then used a jig saw and straight edge to make 4 cuts. One of the cuts isn’t great looking, I was trying keep saw pushed against the Straight edge I hit a knot. The blade ended up cutting at an angle. I think I might try to do it in multi passes if I was doing it again.

LightRailTycoon
Mar 24, 2017

Calidus posted:

I’m definitely not cutting undermount sinks any time soon. I used fostner bits to drill out the 4 corners and get the radius required, then used a jig saw and straight edge to make 4 cuts. One of the cuts isn’t great looking, I was trying keep saw pushed against the Straight edge I hit a knot. The blade ended up cutting at an angle. I think I might try to do it in multi passes if I was doing it again.

For undermount cutouts, you cut undersize, then clean up with a router template bit.

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mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

bred posted:

For examples of how to build that type of thing, search for DIY cubby shelves, apothecary cabinet, cube storage, etc. I see it as a plywood cabinet with a face frame and maybe a countertop.

Working through the steps to meet the concept exactly, I see each part being rectangular with one edge contoured according to a printed pattern. The assembly comes together and we now have a prism with one face 3d contoured. We offer the assembly to the trunk and check fit vs. the mistakes, mark where it is tight and remove material, mark where it is loose and add material. I see moving the whole thing in and out and checking each part's interface as being cumbersome. Possible but annoying.

Now if we made the smallest cabinet that would fit, we'd find the square dimensions and make that cabinet. All parts would be fully rectangular and many repeated so build is quicker and more accurate. Then we offer it to the car, maybe shim it level and start fitting to the contour. Maybe the carcass is 1/2in plywood and we add 1/4in skins to each cell. Now we're fitting many smaller pieces one at a time.

I'd make the smallest rectangular cabinet, enclose the back with a panel, and trim any gaps in the perimeter so nothing gets lost in there. So there would be a thin, lumpy void back there that goes unused. You can use the CAD to get some figures to compare the options.

I might even build it in modules: 2x2, 2x1, and sink. Or even three 2x1s and a sink. Integrating the sink is complex enough to delay the whole thing if the path isn't clear. A modular approach can deliver some functionality while the sink is figured out.
Wow this thread moves like crazy compared to most other hobby threads here. But thanks for the detailed explanation! It wasn't really the right time to start this project since I'd then want to actually use it instead of storing for ages, which would mean taking lots of time off, etc.


Instead I needed an excuse to avoid doing more important tasks today so I decided to make a laptop stand thing out of garbage I had laying around. I wanted it to fit over the Thunderbolt dock but otherwise it could be flat since I don't actually need to touch it.

How it started


How it's going


Some findings:
  • Reciprocating saw works but it was difficult to cut the tight parts of the curve. And it also messed up some of the edges a bit.
  • I had no way to precisely cut the slots in the deck so they turned out super wobbly laterally. So I had to add the rod (of course I just had a 5mm aluminum rod and tapping dies on a shelf in my bedroom) to hold the leg parts together, but it's still a bit loose because I didn't have enough nuts.
  • The thunderbolt cable is on the left of the laptop so I can't put it closer to the monitor
Overall pretty happy with the design, it's really more convenient and freed up a lot of space on the desk.

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