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evobatman posted:What are some good options for the DIY diagnose enthusiast? OBD2 Scanner TOPDON AD600S Scan Tool, Code Reader, Diagnostics Scanner for ABS/SRS/at/Engine, 8 Reset Services, Oil/Brake/BMS/SAS/DPF/TPMS Reset/ABS Bleeding/Throttle Adaptation, Free Lifetime Upgrade https://a.co/d/eEx1e0n
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Jan 20, 2023 13:33
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PBCrunch posted:I have a 60 gallon air compressor. I have an abrasive blaster. It clogs because of moisture. I am thinking I should add a cooler to the setup to decrease the moisture in the air. I've seen two designs that look like a good idea. The first is basically an air conditioning condenser plumbed in between the compressor outlet and the tank. The other design is a length of copper pipe going up and down with drain valves at the bottom of each "valley". Some people say having a second ("passive") tank between the compressor and its tank and the tool can help get the moisture out of the air? Anyone have experience comparing these different options? Between the compressor and tank catches the water before it reaches the tank, reduces rust and draining. Also coming out of the compressor will be the hottest air so the condensation from cooling it should have the maximum effect. I think, not my area of expertise.
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Jan 20, 2023 14:43
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PBCrunch posted:I have a 60 gallon air compressor. I have an abrasive blaster. It clogs because of moisture. I am thinking I should add a cooler to the setup to decrease the moisture in the air. I've seen two designs that look like a good idea. The first is basically an air conditioning condenser plumbed in between the compressor outlet and the tank. The other design is a length of copper pipe going up and down with drain valves at the bottom of each "valley". Some people say having a second ("passive") tank between the compressor and its tank and the tool can help get the moisture out of the air? Anyone have experience comparing these different options? I saw you got no bites in the other thread either, so I'll try to answer your questions. A lot of compressors already have something similar to the condenser in your first picture. That's the intent behind the finned line coming off of the compressor head. You want it between the compressor and tank to cool the air entering the tank and allow the condensing water to be drained out of the bottom of the tank. Water in the tank is not a bad thing here, the tank is also helping cool the compressed air. Though that helps more if you have enough tank and compressor that they aren't running balls out to keep up with your demand. If you installed the ac condenser on the outlet of the tank it would just put water in your airlines. That's why the ol' wall of copper has drains at the bottom of every loop. It belongs on the outlet of your tank and does work - though not nearly as well as a refrigerated dryer. I'd say the one pictured is much too small, I'd at least double the amount of loops. You don't need them spread out as far as shown, back to back elbows are fine. Longer drip legs would be a good idea. I also wouldn't make it out of rapidair. The plastic coated aluminum is going to be a poorer thermal conductor than copper. Of the two options, this is the more effective of the two and the bigger you make it the better it will work. You also don't have to butcher the factory hard lines on the compressor. But by the time you are done, you'll be most of the way to the cost of a harbor freight refrigerated dryer.
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Jan 20, 2023 14:59
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The HF air drier is $550 and ... comes from Harbor Freight. I only included that picture because it was the best pic I could find online. My wife wants new faucets in the bathrooms and this would be a good opportunity to learn how to sweat copper pipes out in the open before I attempt it under the bathroom sink. Compressor specs: Husky "Made in USA" purchased used 5-8 years ago. 220 V 60 gallon tank "7 hp peak" 11.8 SCFM @ 40 psi 10.3 SCFM @ 90 psi This is the whole apparatus on top of my compressor. AFAICT it is just a motor and a belt connected to a pump. No cooling devices of any kind.  If only this sticker wasn't so true. 
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Jan 20, 2023 16:35
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Haha love that sticker. Looks like there’s a hard line coming from the compressor and turning down, on the opposite side from the air filter, is that the output from compressor to tank? That’s what you want to tee off. Run that through the loops like that other pic and then the filters/regulator.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:13
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The finned line connects the high and low pressure pump heads. It's designed to cool the air as it passes from the low pressure pump head to the high pressure head. You could certainly install cooling between the high pressure pump and the tank, but it'll have to deal with a lot of vibration. The copper up/down loops work great, and I had them on my old compressor. You want copper, and back-to-back elbows (or a reg and street elbow) work fine. If you put an AC condenser in the middle of anything, you'll need to either plumb it so it dumps water into the tank or somehow get a drain after it. My suggestion would be to use soft copper tubing to connect the high pressure pump outlet to the condenser and back to the tank inlet. Then add the copper loop if you are still getting water into your lines. Another thing that people regularly forget is to put drains below any hard line use port, and to tap off the top of their mainline circuit pipe, rather than the bottom. It's a lot more work, but well worth it to prevent moisture. Copper is king for air lines, because it sucks the heat out better than steel, and you don't need to worry about rust. It's spendy, but IMHO, well worth it. I've done 2 big compressor installs, and I could chat with you about it if you want. If you dig into this thread and the other tool thread, you'll find my install pics. https://imgur.com/a/uOegsxS is one album
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Jan 20, 2023 17:15
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ThinkFear posted:I saw you got no bites in the other thread either, so I'll try to answer your questions. A lot of compressors already have something similar to the condenser in your first picture. That's the intent behind the finned line coming off of the compressor head. You want it between the compressor and tank to cool the air entering the tank and allow the condensing water to be drained out of the bottom of the tank. Would the condenser with a drain point at a low spot before entering the check valves on the tanks be a good solution? A 240v normally open solenoid valve that closed when the compressor starts should work for this I'm thinking. I built my compressor out of spare parts and the highest hp single phase motor I could find but couldn't find finned tubing so I half assed a few coiled copper tubes together. The AC condenser looks like a much better solution I wish I would have thought of.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:25
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PBCrunch posted:The HF air drier is $550 and ... comes from Harbor Freight. Harbor freight is not known for quality implements sure, but it is about as complicated as a mini fridge and cleaning out the plumbing aisle at home depot isn't cheap either. I'm not trying to badger you out of a project, just making you aware of an alternative. I think you'll get better results from the pipe maze vs the condenser. sharkytm posted:The finned line connects the high and low pressure pump heads. It's designed to cool the air as it passes from the low pressure pump head to the high pressure head. You could certainly install cooling between the high pressure pump and the tank, but it'll have to deal with a lot of vibration. The copper up/down loops work great, and I had them on my old compressor. You want copper, and back-to-back elbows (or a reg and street elbow) work fine. If you put an AC condenser in the middle of anything, you'll need to either plumb it so it dumps water into the tank or somehow get a drain after it. My suggestion would be to use soft copper tubing to connect the high pressure pump outlet to the condenser and back to the tank inlet. Then add the copper loop if you are still getting water into your lines. Another thing that people regularly forget is to put drains below any hard line use port, and to tap off the top of their mainline circuit pipe, rather than the bottom. It's a lot more work, but well worth it to prevent moisture. Copper is king for air lines, because it sucks the heat out better than steel, and you don't need to worry about rust. It's spendy, but IMHO, well worth it. I've done 2 big compressor installs, and I could chat with you about it if you want. If you dig into this thread and the other tool thread, you'll find my install pics. Your probably right, didn't realize that was a two stage pump. I had an old saylor beall that looped a finned line in front of the pump pulley before going to the tank. This is all solid advice for air system layout. SpeedFreek posted:Would the condenser with a drain point at a low spot before entering the check valves on the tanks be a good solution? A 240v normally open solenoid valve that closed when the compressor starts should work for this I'm thinking. I wouldn't bother overcomplicating it with solenoids. If you want aftercooling between the compressor and tank, just keep the low point above the inlet on the top of the tank and use the tank drain. You are going to have water in the tank either way. Vibration is a fair concern like sharky said though.
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Jan 20, 2023 19:00
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I would like to learn the skill of pipe soldering, so I'm going to give that a shot. Since abrasive blasting is the man use case for me, am I going to be significantly better off with 3/4" pipe compared to 1/2" pipe? What fittings am I going to be looking for to be able to connect copper pipes to regular air compressor lines? Back when I used to do a lot of homebrewing I used to have a contraption I made out of coiled up copper tubing that I would connect to a garden hose to run cold water through the wort to quickly cool it down to yeast-friendly temperatures after brewing. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 20:14
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PBCrunch posted:I would like to learn the skill of pipe soldering, so I'm going to give that a shot. Here's some plumbing advice at least: get the yellow gas and a push button ignitor head. Much more convenient and lasts a lot longer than I expected. Burns VERY hot and most of my fittings are ready in 10-12 seconds I think. I should actually count it.
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Jan 20, 2023 20:22
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PBCrunch posted:I would like to learn the skill of pipe soldering, so I'm going to give that a shot. I hate to say this, but abrasive blasting is basically the hardest thing to do. It consumes a massive amount of air, and is a long process, unlike most of the common air-driven activities (impact guns, air ratchets, air hammers, even die grinders are usually not a 100% duty cycle thing). You're going to struggle on that compressor, unless you're running a small cabinet. 10SCFM is nothing. https://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-capacity-floor-abrasive-blast-cabinet-68893.html 9.5CFM at 90PSI. That means your compressor will run 100% of the time once you've dropped the pressure in the tank.
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Jan 20, 2023 20:32
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sharkytm posted:I hate to say this, but abrasive blasting is basically the hardest thing to do. It consumes a massive amount of air, and is a long process, unlike most of the common air-driven activities (impact guns, air ratchets, air hammers, even die grinders are usually not a 100% duty cycle thing). You're going to struggle on that compressor, unless you're running a small cabinet. 10SCFM is nothing. https://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-69724.html This is the blaster I'm using.
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Jan 20, 2023 20:50
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PBCrunch posted:I would like to learn the skill of pipe soldering, so I'm going to give that a shot. I would run 3/4, yeah. Your compressor isn't huge and 1/2 is fine for light use, but any kind of blasting requires a poo poo ton of air and all of those elbows have a negative effect on flow. Honestly, that's more blaster than you have compressor, but if you are happy with the performance now minus the clogging, then run what you have. You are going to need sweat > female adapters like these and a leader hose to go to the tank. Maybe some bushings for the tank outlet. You don't want to hard pipe to the tank because of vibration. On the other end drop ear elbows will give you an easy way to mount your quick connects.
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Jan 20, 2023 20:55
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I'll second running at least 3/4 up to the regulator if you're going to have a bunch of elbows, I know it makes a difference on air tools as far as keeping the pressure up after the first ugga dugga. I think my old compressor was rated at 14scfm and it ran constantly if I had to do any blasting, it was a crapsman so I'm guessing that was optimistic.
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Jan 20, 2023 22:04
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Sometimes it takes a bit of embarrassment to kick you into gear. My garage has been a disaster for a while. I mean bad-bad. Last week, forums superstar glyph stopped by and when we were in my garage, I realized how lovely it really was. That made me devote some time and energy into making order out of the chaos and I'm well on my way. I have room to work and move, which is more than I can say for before. As I was organizing, I arranged my cordless tools in rainbow order. There's red, orange, yellow, green, and blue. Not for long, though... the sole DeWalt tool I have is a worthless blower that I need to just pitch. 
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Jan 23, 2023 18:53
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Sometimes it takes a bit of embarrassment to kick you into gear. My garage has been a disaster for a while. I mean bad-bad. Last week, forums superstar glyph stopped by and when we were in my garage, I realized how lovely it really was. No blue, indigo, or violet?
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Jan 23, 2023 18:59
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therobit posted:No blue, indigo, or violet? There's blue, after the green. 
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Jan 23, 2023 19:01
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Trying to put together a lean toolbox for the truck, to cover as many maintenance tasks as possible. Got any suggestions for small tools that save a lot of effort? I have a '12 Hemi Ram, if you have any vehicle-specific ideas. Currently contains: 3/8" ratchet + metric set spark plug socket + ujoint + 3" extension spark plug gap tool ratcheting screwdriver w/ relevant bits adjustable wrench big ol flathead screwdriver lineman pliers pushpin remover magnet-on-a-stick mini bulb pliers locking lug key tire pressure gauge Pretty small box (Toyo Y350), so things like my tire iron and hitch ball wrenches will have to ride outside. I guess I'm also in the market for a floor jack and a pair of stands, since I've always had to borrow them. I'm probably gonna get an Intercomp to replace my generic tire gauge, since the cheap ones seem to get further and further off like a slow clock.
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Jan 23, 2023 20:11
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solarNativity posted:Trying to put together a lean toolbox for the truck, to cover as many maintenance tasks as possible. Got any suggestions for small tools that save a lot of effort? I have a '12 Hemi Ram, if you have any vehicle-specific ideas. The ratcheting box wrenches that have like four different sizes on each one.
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Jan 23, 2023 20:30
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solarNativity posted:tire iron I hate them and used to just keep a cheap breaker bar and socket. Now I use the Harbor Freight 1/2 extendable ratchet. And it's good for holding a tensioner for belt changes.
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Jan 23, 2023 21:52
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Needle nose pliers for pulling those little tiny fuses. Some electrical tape. Various sizes of zip ties. Masking tape and a marker. A $5 multimeter. A flashlight or one of those lights that goes on your head. A set of crimpers/wire strippers/wire cutters if you ever tow a trailer. A couple pairs of nitrile gloves plus a set of mechanics gloves. A little bit of sandpaper. A red cloth rag in case you buy a long pipe or piece of wood that sticks out of the bed. As for Ram-specific stuff, a complete set of front end parts and a spare TIPM (I kid). Seriously though, remove the factory wheel nuts and replace them with one-piece units if you haven't already. Chrysler loves wheel nuts with a chrome cover over a regular steel interior. The steel interior rusts, the outside cover swells, and now you have a problem on your hands. Some extra oil drain plug gaskets. This is maybe not exactly what you were asking, but an aluminum floor jack and several scraps of 2x4 to use to lift something higher than the jack is made for. The 2x4 scraps can also double as wheel chocks. I also like to carry a set of jumper cables in any car I drive.
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Jan 24, 2023 15:54
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PBCrunch posted:Needle nose pliers for pulling those little tiny fuses. Some electrical tape. Various sizes of zip ties. Masking tape and a marker. A $5 multimeter. A flashlight or one of those lights that goes on your head. A set of crimpers/wire strippers/wire cutters if you ever tow a trailer. A couple pairs of nitrile gloves plus a set of mechanics gloves. A little bit of sandpaper. A red cloth rag in case you buy a long pipe or piece of wood that sticks out of the bed. Silicon tape too.
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Jan 24, 2023 18:24
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PBCrunch posted:As for Ram-specific stuff, a complete set of front end parts I already crunched the front end once and used the opportunity to get the factory under hood light kit. Every Ram should have one of these, considering how often the hood is up. Who makes good stripper/crimpers? I'm leaning Klein because I can get it at Home Depot, but I also love the Knipex needlenose I got.
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Jan 24, 2023 20:03
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This is the one that is the most popular in the mobile electronics installation bays I have worked in: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Crimping-and-Cutting-Tool-for-Connectors-1005SEN/100352095 When I was talking about front end parts I was making a joke about Dodge trucks' tendency to eat ball joints and similar parts.
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Jan 24, 2023 21:07
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I'm a fan of the Astro pneumatic 9477 kit on Amazon. If you need to crimp weatherpaks (and many similar pins where the rear seal gets slid onto the wire before crimping the pin on) add dies H6 and H7. They have amp superseal dies available as well but I haven't bought them yet. I have found a few things I couldn't crimp with them but they cover most common tasks. Die A5 I'll probably get soon since it's supposed to be better for heatshrink RBY terminals. There's a knockoff wirefy brand one that comes with slightly different dies as well. You can get dies that look identical fitment wise from half a dozen brands and they all fit, which is nice because each brand seems to sell slightly different subsets. A: regular old RBY terminals (bare business end, plastic collar on crimp area) A2: fully insulated RBY terminals A3: mini insulated RBY terminals A4: insulated flag terminals (red and blue only) A5: heatshrink RBY terminals (all I recommend for cars) A6: insulated flag terminals (yellow only) H2: superseal 1.5 terminals 22-20 to 16awg H3: superseal 1.5 terminals 18-17awg H4-5 I can't find H6: weatherpak 22-20 to 18awg H7: weatherpak 16-14 to 12awg K1-K6: Deutsch DT/M/P series terminals (I can only find this as a full set, SKU B076J23BYW, but it's cheaper than getting 6 dies separately) I think I've seen more but I can't find them now. Dear future self, this is a lottery shopping list, thanks.
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Jan 25, 2023 00:23
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PBCrunch posted:Some extra oil drain plug gaskets. Do Rams use those? My experience with Jeeps is that they have a rubber seal built into the plug itself.
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Jan 25, 2023 19:00
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 God drat I love the quick jack. One of the coolest and most useful things I own. If you've thought about getting one just do it.
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Jan 30, 2023 22:11
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Not automotive specific, but I often find myself needing to measure small things (like 10-50mm roughly). I have a cheapo set of HF digital calipers but it’s honestly pretty lovely and I constantly find it going out of alignment. What would be the best upgrade without dumping $150+ on a really fancy pair? Would this one be more reliable, since there is no digital mechanism to become unaligned? Looking to spend $50 max if at all possible. https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-530...aps%2C98&sr=8-9
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Jan 30, 2023 22:32
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Bouillon Rube posted:Not automotive specific, but I often find myself needing to measure small things (like 10-50mm roughly). I have a cheapo set of HF digital calipers but it’s honestly pretty lovely and I constantly find it going out of alignment. Mitutoyo is a respected name in the world of metrology, and once you get good at reading a vernier scale you'll love them. No battery to replace, they're always on, and there are no parts to break. Go for it.
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Jan 30, 2023 22:42
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Bouillon Rube posted:Not automotive specific, but I often find myself needing to measure small things (like 10-50mm roughly). I have a cheapo set of HF digital calipers but it’s honestly pretty lovely and I constantly find it going out of alignment. I've seen a lot of good revies and references to this: https://www.amazon.com/SHAHE-Electr...aps%2C83&sr=8-1 It's on my list to replace my harbor freight caliper.
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Jan 30, 2023 22:43
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meatpimp posted:I've seen a lot of good revies and references to this: https://www.amazon.com/SHAHE-Electr...aps%2C83&sr=8-1 That's half the price of what I was going to recommend. Super happy with these. (occasionally measuring stuff in the shop, but I'm just the engineer, not the machinist, so I can't speak specifically about the accuracy at the 0.001" range.) iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection/Extreme Accuracy https://a.co/d/gAxMy7r
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Jan 30, 2023 23:35
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I would not buy a Mitutoyo on Amazon. (But maybe fakes are less of a problem with vernier models?) e: I use this $60 Adafruit calipers. Adafruit generally does good in-house filtering of the no-name tools they carry. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Jan 31, 2023 |
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Jan 30, 2023 23:50
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Uthor posted:That's half the price of what I was going to recommend. Super happy with these. (occasionally measuring stuff in the shop, but I'm just the engineer, not the machinist, so I can't speak specifically about the accuracy at the 0.001" range.) To my understanding, the big difference between fancy calipers and cheap calipers isn't so much accuracy as parasitic draw on the battery. That said, I've heard nice things about iGaging calipers and I have one of their angle finders and it works pretty well.
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Jan 31, 2023 00:31
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ryanrs posted:I would not buy a Mitutoyo on Amazon.  a Mitutoyo dealer will probably be about the same price and only take a few more days to arrive.
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Jan 31, 2023 01:04
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Cat Hatter posted:To my understanding, the big difference between fancy calipers and cheap calipers isn't so much accuracy as parasitic draw on the battery. That said, I've heard nice things about iGaging calipers and I have one of their angle finders and it works pretty well. This battery has been in for almost 3 years. My cheap ones would wear out in like six months (I purposefully removed the battery from those when putting them away). I guess my one complaint is that it doesn't turn off automatically, but unlike the cheap ones, it also doesn't turn on automatically. And that still hasn't caused the battery to run out.
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Jan 31, 2023 01:17
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Why not a pair of dial calipers? I learned to read a vernier caliper way back in the day, but for the frequency and accuracy that I need at home I've got a set of Fowler dial calipers. Easy enough to read quickly, no batteries to mess with. Harbor Freight even sells them under a variety of brands, but I don't know anything about their accuracy.
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Jan 31, 2023 03:04
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Can anyone recommend a basic set of PDR rods and tips, plus maybe one of the tools you out the tip on to so you can tap it with a dead blow hammer? I will use it for a handful of minor dents across our crappy vehicles and one slightly more major dent on my own car from when it was my mom’s and she hit something in a parking lot because someone boxed her in. And rather than deal with that she just decided to hit a pole. If you knew her it would make sense.
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Jan 31, 2023 06:13
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therobit posted:Can anyone recommend a basic set of PDR rods and tips, plus maybe one of the tools you out the tip on to so you can tap it with a dead blow hammer? I will use it for a handful of minor dents across our crappy vehicles and one slightly more major dent on my own car from when it was my mom’s and she hit something in a parking lot because someone boxed her in. And rather than deal with that she just decided to hit a pole. If you knew her it would make sense. Not home use but just as an anecdote: I like having digital calipers at work because I often need to go back and forth between inches and metric units, and just hitting a button is a lot nicer than having to do (and probably screw up) easy conversion math. Can confirm battery life for Mitutoyo calipers, I think I've put one new battery in mine in the 6 or so years I've had it, and I accidentally leave it on all the time. Cheap ones I've used before felt like I was replacing the battery every other month or more.
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Jan 31, 2023 19:53
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I find digital calipers useful for measuring things where I can't see the readout. Press the zero button while measuring it, remove the calipers, close them, read the distance that I measured as a negative number!
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Jan 31, 2023 20:32
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As someone that uses calipers daily, I would consider 8"over a 6" - the small bit of extra size comes in handy and typically have a slightly longer depth ability as well. Mitutoyos are of course excellent but I also use a brand called "Asimeto" and the compare well, definitely a little less $$. Come with an ISO cert and have given me no problems for the 4 years I've used them.
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Jan 31, 2023 22:19
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