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Nerobro posted:Yes get the metal extruder top. No, don't get a dual gear extruder. Any particular reason why? I've tried both, both seem fine. (I did get the dual gear ones with the bottom bearing so as to not grind itself to death.)
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Jan 20, 2023 01:42
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tracecomplete posted:Any particular reason why? I've tried both, both seem fine. (I did get the dual gear ones with the bottom bearing so as to not grind itself to death.) As you get "better" at printing. The dual gear extruders have some artifacting that can show up. Either from the poor mesh of the two gears, or stacked tolerances causing variations in practical gear tooth sizes. Dual gear extruders also usually have concave drive gears, and those can cause some wacky changes on actual extruded distance based on how stiff the plastic is. You'll hear something about "dual gear pushes harder" if you need to push that hard, you probally have something else wrong with your setup. They cover ~other~ problems, and when those get bad enough.. well you're really gonna be confused. The dual gear ones also need to have the extrusion multiplier reset, and I tend not to want to have people doing that if they're at a point in their printing career that a broken tension arm confuses them. It's.. kinder on the user? It looks like you had no problem, so yay! The single gear extruder can drag my ender across the table. Note, I say this as most of my printers have BMG gears in them, not becuase it's "a thing I chose" it's just what was easily available and part of existing designs. It's tangental. But I want a quad gear, straight cut, extruder. Though it looks like BMG is releasing one with like.. 30 or 40 tooth sync gears? and I think that might satisfy my desires. Edit: This is all... deep in the weeds stuff. Yay, you got a new extruder. And it's gonna work great for you. :-) Nerobro fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 04:41
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Eh, dual gear is the easy choice and you need to do the extrusion multiplier for any new extruder. Are they the best extruder? No, but they're a good choice and there's tons of info available.
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Jan 20, 2023 05:29
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Absolutely agreed re: "pushing harder", I got them because they were cheap and 1:1 and I've had bad luck with gear reduction on Bowden printers. I have BMGs on the shelf to replace when I get around to finishing my direct drive conversions. Good to know, thanks.
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Jan 20, 2023 05:29
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Have any of y'all set up Octoprint on an old smartphone? How is it? I had hoped that Prusa Connect would be set up by now, and now that I have a tent over my Mini it's a bother to reach for the USB drive in the back.
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Jan 20, 2023 15:13
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NewFatMike posted:Have any of y'all set up Octoprint on an old smartphone? How is it? Another quick option would be a usb extension cable routed out of the tent.
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Jan 20, 2023 15:28
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Speaking of tents. A lot of people on the interwbs say you shouldn't run enclosed FDM printers with the PSU and the Control board in the tent. Is this really a big issue running them in a warm environment? I don't plan on doing external heting just keeping the heat from the bed plate around to keep crankier non PLA stuff from being cranky.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:19
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I tried an extension earlier, but it made some really goofy behavior happen. I’d rather use what I’ve got laying around than buy a new thing, even if it’s a little more challenging.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:19
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tater_salad posted:Speaking of tents. People are superstitious ninnies who think equipment "feels too hot" and don't do a bit of looking up datasheets. If your equipment doesn't HAVE a datasheet, be a superstitious ninny. If it has a datasheet, and it allows up to 60C ambient with derating or whatever, measure and use it.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:27
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anyone used or have an opinion on the anycubic kobra max?
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Jan 20, 2023 17:29
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NewFatMike posted:Have any of y'all set up Octoprint on an old smartphone? How is it? I have! It was easy to install, drove the printer perfectly, and the phone was so old (Nexus 5) it wouldn't do charging and data over the same port so I abandoned it. I would tell you to give it a shot, it's one sideloaded APK and a $5 splitter cable investment. I had it done in an hour and I'm dumb as hell.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:36
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Deviant posted:anyone used or have an opinion on the anycubic kobra max? I don't have one, but a friend does and says that getting the bed trammed is a bit of a shitshow. Seems to like it otherwise though.
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Jan 20, 2023 17:42
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tracecomplete posted:I don't have one, but a friend does and says that getting the bed trammed is a bit of a shitshow. Seems to like it otherwise though. which is odd, isn't it auto leveling and without knobs?
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Jan 20, 2023 17:57
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Would like opinions on the Elegoo Wash N Cure Mercury X bundle. I really need a bigger wash station. Also, can Lychee be used with Octoprint? TIA, gunes
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Jan 20, 2023 17:57
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octoprint is not designed for resin printers
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Jan 20, 2023 18:00
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Deviant posted:octoprint is not designed for resin printers Lychee does FDM now
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Jan 20, 2023 18:03
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Deviant posted:which is odd, isn't it auto leveling and without knobs? I have a CR-10 Smart that doesn't have knobs and also was pretty wonky until I did some hacky poo poo to it, so I didn't question.
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Jan 20, 2023 18:20
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bbcisdabomb posted:I have! It was easy to install, drove the printer perfectly, and the phone was so old (Nexus 5) it wouldn't do charging and data over the same port so I abandoned it. I would tell you to give it a shot, it's one sideloaded APK and a $5 splitter cable investment. I had it done in an hour and I'm dumb as hell. I also got octo4a running on an old android phone (some blackberry model) - and also ran into the same problem with charging and printer not able to be connected at the same time. In Tom's video showing it off, he wires an external battery charger to his old phone, and that bypasses the problem, but it seems like the no "charging and data at the same time" torpedoes the project for most people. I don't think it's as easy as a splitter cable (I'd be happy if it was, that just hasn't been my experience with usb otg cables).
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Jan 20, 2023 18:20
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Deviant posted:which is odd, isn't it auto leveling and without knobs? Auto-leveling only works if the bed's already level within a particular tolerance, so if you need to tram the bed to get it within those limits you need to get in under the bed with a screwdriver and possibly shim it with washers, which can be awkward
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Jan 20, 2023 18:22
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mewse posted:I also got octo4a running on an old android phone (some blackberry model) - and also ran into the same problem with charging and printer not able to be connected at the same time. I'm going to assume that the printers are mostly wired to do just data on the USB port since there's "no reason" to need to provide power.
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Jan 20, 2023 18:41
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bbcisdabomb posted:I have! It was easy to install, drove the printer perfectly, and the phone was so old (Nexus 5) it wouldn't do charging and data over the same port so I abandoned it. I would tell you to give it a shot, it's one sideloaded APK and a $5 splitter cable investment. I had it done in an hour and I'm dumb as hell. Word of warning, the current version of Octo4Android is broken and needs some workarounds to get functional. Wish I had checked the Github comments after thinking "hey i haven't updated this in a while"
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Jan 20, 2023 19:07
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Doctor Zero posted:Would like opinions on the Elegoo Wash N Cure Mercury X bundle. I really need a bigger wash station. I have the Mercury XS bundle and love it. I have experience with the Anycubic wash and cure that uses the same base. I don't like that nearly as much as having a dedicated wash base and cure base. The X may be a little smaller than the XS? I find the XS works really well though. The web site says that you have to remove the build plate handle of the Saturn 2 to wash in the XS, but I don't find that to be the case. The handle is ever so slightly big that you can't snap the lid on with the handle attached, but I don't get any splashes or anything so I just leave the lid resting on top and it works great.
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Jan 20, 2023 19:29
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Doctor Zero posted:Would like opinions on the Elegoo Wash N Cure Mercury X bundle. I really need a bigger wash station. I've got one of the small Elegoo Mercury Plus Wash & Cure stations, and my biggest complaint with it is honestly that the beep when you start/stop it is kinda loud. (And I guess that I wish it had a tighter mesh/net in the basket. So many of these things feel specced more for big prints and busts, not really minis.) That said, it seems to reverse the washing direction every 3 or 5 minutes, which makes me wonder how long you're actually supposed to wash figures in it. (I tend to dunk, spray rinse, chuck into wash & cure for 5-6 min.)
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Jan 20, 2023 19:36
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I will second that the beep is loud, but that is a benefit to me as I am usually out of the room when it is whirling away. The basket does have a low resolution mesh that makes it inconvenient for miniatures unless you you leave them on the supports. But even then, small things like heads can pop off somewhat easily. You can purchase a higher resolution mesh and make something kind of work and that can help with that issue. The mesh is big enough that even 75mm figures or warlord/avatars that are huge can still have a sword or spear pop through a hole and get stuck though.
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Jan 20, 2023 19:45
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Is cura smart enough to figure out how not to bonk into stuff when printing multiple pieces on one bed? I am printing some hex connectors, one takes about 4 hours so I want to do 3 so they could keep going while I sleep. I waited 30 minutes to see how it would turn out and it seems like, for some reason, one of the hexes got caught or something and dragged onto another hex and this caused a chain reaction that ended in spiderweb. I don't know about Cura but PrusaSlicer has a help guide on how to configure for sequential printing. It needs you to measure the clearance area of the hotend supply assembly (including fans if they reach that low). While putting models on the bed, the software will warn you if there is going to be a collision. When placing models think that you need to keep a wide berth that will fit something that looks like below:  https://help.prusa3d.com/article/sequential-printing_124589 the guide might help you find the same setting in Cura EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 23:35
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bbcisdabomb posted:I have! It was easy to install, drove the printer perfectly, and the phone was so old (Nexus 5) it wouldn't do charging and data over the same port so I abandoned it. I would tell you to give it a shot, it's one sideloaded APK and a $5 splitter cable investment. I had it done in an hour and I'm dumb as hell. Hell yeah thank you. I’ve got a Pixel 4a and Motorola G something going into this. I’m also dumb as hell.
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Jan 20, 2023 23:54
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tater_salad posted:Speaking of tents. No, it's fine. Most people who get all bent out of shape about this sort of thing... well ... insta posted:People are superstitious ninnies who think equipment "feels too hot" and don't do a bit of looking up datasheets. If your equipment doesn't HAVE a datasheet, be a superstitious ninny. If it has a datasheet, and it allows up to 60C ambient with derating or whatever, measure and use it. This, basicly. Heck my Pi regularly runs 70c in my V0. Unless you get a second degree burn touching it, it's probally fine. And if you're worried, ANY airflow will solve it. Even if the air is ~hot~.
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Jan 21, 2023 05:30
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Word. Yeah both the Mobo and psu have a fan I guess I'll just say fuckit. I'd eventually want to make a fan and duct to put abs smells outside but I'm a long way off from that point.
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Jan 21, 2023 15:54
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I have not used my Makergear M2 in an age so was looking forward to tuning it up and making a benchy but after two prints it jammed up. It jammed before and I took the vb3 hotend apart and cleaned it with a blowtorch, I'm hoping I don't have to do that again. I tried a cold pull with no luck. I'm thinking the press fit of the hotend into the printed housing that mounts on the motor is causing some alignment issues, especially after I pulled it apart to clean it the last time. Maybe when I pressed it back in it is not aligned and the filament isn't going into the hotend. I just figured out it's actually only feeding about 10mm to 15mm. I think I don't have much of a choice though and will have to yank the sucker off to see what's going on. Does anybody else have some M2 experience? I think I need to order a V4 hotend and get with the decade. Also maybe a .5mm nozzle to replace the .35mm. .35mm is smaller than typical right?
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Jan 21, 2023 19:30
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Viper915 posted:Another quick option would be a usb extension cable routed out of the tent. It's so goddamn hard to find a decently made USB extension cable. I tried two on my mini and both led to glitchy prints, gave up on that idea. E: it still boggles my mind that my mini, which came with an ethernet jack, has been plugged into my network for years yet I'm still unable to upload a print job over the network. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 21, 2023 |
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Jan 21, 2023 19:49
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The Eyes Have It posted:It's so goddamn hard to find a decently made USB extension cable. I tried two on my mini and both led to glitchy prints, gave up on that idea.
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Jan 21, 2023 20:05
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The Eyes Have It posted:That's a good reminder that a skirt loop is a good way to help ensure things are flowing well for a first layer that needs to be spot on, good point. When I first got my printer and got it to print a several good enough prints in a row, I decided to hit print and go make a sandwich and do some other stuff, since I was printing something big that was going to take a while (I think it was a nasa space capsule or something that I was going to take to work to impress people). I think it only printed one and a half layers before it spent an hour or two making an actual birds nest - so I learned my lesson to make sure everything is extruding and sticking properly with the skirts and not globbing up, no matter how finally tuned I think I have it.
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Jan 21, 2023 20:05
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Brejank posted:I have not used my Makergear M2 in an age so was looking forward to tuning it up and making a benchy but after two prints it jammed up. It jammed before and I took the vb3 hotend apart and cleaned it with a blowtorch, I'm hoping I don't have to do that again. I do! I used to have six of them. The V3b is pretty old, but it's great for PLA and some ABSes. The PEEK retainer will melt at PETG temperatures. What do you want to know?
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Jan 21, 2023 21:20
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The Eyes Have It posted:E: it still boggles my mind that my mini, which came with an ethernet jack, has been plugged into my network for years yet I'm still unable to upload a print job over the network. So, they added an actual ethernet port, and all it does is I assume download updates/firmware or something? That seems rather pointless. Or can you monitor it, but not actually push gcode to it?
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Jan 21, 2023 22:06
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insta posted:I do! I used to have six of them. Super! I'm just doing PLA now but I want to try ABS once I get the hang of running it again. Right now though I have to unclog it and I think I have to torch it. Is the PEEK inside the threaded tube of the hotend? I think I will heat up a rod close to 1.75mm and try to clear it out with that instead of taking the torch directly to it (to avoid melting the PEEK (I was thinking it is Teflon). The nozzle itself is definitely clogged and glazed over since I heated up to a higher temp trying the "cold pull" method. Did you have issues with .35mm nozzles? I would like to find out what causes it to clog so I can avoid it in the future. The first time I think it was old filament. This time I just think since I haven't used it in a while and forgot what I was doing it just got a simple jam but I kept trying to feed it thus really cramming it in there. I got some marks on the idler now so I can see if it is feeding smoothly or not. I'm sure I'll have some more questions once I fix the nozzle.
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Jan 21, 2023 22:06
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SubNat posted:So, they added an actual ethernet port, and all it does is I assume download updates/firmware or something? it doesn't even do that. it's got some basic temperature monitoring.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:15
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Nerobro posted:Yes get the metal extruder top. No, don't get a dual gear extruder. I'm going to second this. The dual gear one is fine, but only just. I've bought both, and the standard metal extruder was a better experience. The dual gear one I got was the one known for grinding itself. The top results seem to show a spacer there now though.
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Jan 22, 2023 06:15
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I am really wanting to purchase this pack of 32 mm vehicles and riders to go with my Necromunda Escher gang https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-bikes-of-the-wasteland-256005. However the scale of the pack is 32mm compared to 28mm for necromunda (I presume to help avoid copyright strikes..? A lot of creators for 28mm games seem to work in 32 mm) Does anyone have experience scaling down models like this the 10 or so % to make them look right side by side with the official ones? They come pre-supported it says, but would it be advisable to scratch that and resupport in the slicer? Any other tips or pitfalls? I'm using Chitubox and a Mars 3 Pro.
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Jan 22, 2023 15:30
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Brejank posted:Super! I'm just doing PLA now but I want to try ABS once I get the hang of running it again. Right now though I have to unclog it and I think I have to torch it. You'll probably have to torch it. Unclip the hotend connectors. Remove the retainer from the printed holder. Using a wrench on the nozzle, remove the nozzle assembly from the retainer. Remove the heater assembly from the nozzle. Using a pair of jam nuts on the barrel, remove the nozzle. The top of the hotend is PTFE, but the tan thing the barrel screws into is PEEK. That's what melts with sustained temps. The PTFE will outgas and degrade at those same temperatures, so really the practical limit is 245C. I usually used a .35 nozzle, but a .5 is fine. You can get great detail from a .5 if you tinker with slicer settings. Also, if you install klipper, you can set up input shaping and get rid of the ridiculous ringing on the bed. I can walk you through that, too. With the barrel by itself, use a heat gun and cleaner filament to clean it out. With stainless steel tweezers, hold the nozzle and hit with a blowtorch until it's glowing dull red (the brass can do it). Drop the searing hot nozzle into water and pressure-blast most of the crap out of it. Heat the nozzle again to more reasonable temperatures and do some faux cold-pulls with cleaner filament, until the cavity at the tip is clean. Polish the exterior of the nozzle with ScotchBrite until it's shiny again, and reassemble.
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Jan 22, 2023 16:12
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I am really wanting to purchase this pack of 32 mm vehicles and riders to go with my Necromunda Escher gang https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-bikes-of-the-wasteland-256005. 1. Necromunda (at least the current version) is very much not 28mm, it's closer to 32mm or even 35mm, as are most GW minis these days. 2. I don't have a specific link handy but there are scaler "tools" that you can import into your slicer or 3d builder or whatever, that will help you determine what % to scale to. It's basically just another STL file that you place next to your mini to help you resize it properly (remember that "height" for a mini is based on how tall it is at eye level, not at the top of its head), and then delete before saving or slicing the file. Sir Scalesby/Sgt. Scalesby is one such example. 3. You absolutely do want to resupport any files you have scaled, as the supports will also scale up or down which can make them weaker (or way too strong, depending). So yes, go ahead and buy the bikes with confidence. 
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