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Bank posted:While I figure out how to get my car towed home, I've been doing a shitload of reading about this Pilot and might give it one last shot before donating it to charity (or just parting it out). I found out the radiator has coolant going through it for the motor, along with an ATF line: Here's Rainman Ray dealing with a Chevy Cobalt with the identical problem: We first meet it in the 2nd half of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fe5V7wS3xhs&t=617s Then two more videos where he fixes it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYlxj3OBgvg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y492LKSV9LI
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Jan 18, 2023 22:01
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My CV axle just ate poo poo. I'm not sure if the boot let go before or after I offroaded it through deep sand for 2 weeks straight. Thankfully the guts didn't grenade just yet, and it still turns the wheel. My question: That whole area is now coated in heavy grease + sand. What's the best way to clean it up? My neighbor has a pressure washer of some sort I can borrow, if that's useful. Suggested detergent/degreaser? I guess I do it before replacing the CV axle? I don't want to force water into any areas it should not be. What's the usual protocol here?
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Jan 19, 2023 03:20
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Welp, got my Pilot back in the garage and all signs point to needing a new tranny. I got 5 codes (two are dupes, three are permanent..): P0118 Engine Coolant TemperatureSensor Circuit High Input P0301 Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected P0741 (pd) Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance or Stuck Off P0118 (pd) Engine Coolant TemperatureSensor Circuit High Input P0301 (pd) Cylinder 1 - Misfire Detected The P0741 is the one that worries me. If it was just the other two I'd probably be buying a new radiator/hoses and doing some drain fills on the ATF, but P0741 is apparently a death sentence? WWYD? I'm guessing its time for me to rip out all the stereo stuff I put in here and get it ready for donation..
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Jan 19, 2023 03:48
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ryanrs posted:My CV axle just ate poo poo. I'm not sure if the boot let go before or after I offroaded it through deep sand for 2 weeks straight. Thankfully the guts didn't grenade just yet, and it still turns the wheel. The union between the CV joint and the transmission is intact, it's still seated in there. So no contamination worries. The tulip joint failed; the hard part's going to be yanking free the can at the transmission. Just replace the axle & be on your way (to get an alignment)
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Jan 19, 2023 04:24
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OK then, all else being equal, I'm going to swap the CV axle, steering rack, and an A/C line, then degrease everything after all the new parts are in. I expect all three repairs are going to leak oil everywhere.
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Jan 19, 2023 07:04
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ryanrs posted:My CV axle just ate poo poo. I'm not sure if the boot let go before or after I offroaded it through deep sand for 2 weeks straight. Thankfully the guts didn't grenade just yet, and it still turns the wheel. This picture when I first was looking at it, I thought it was a painting.
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Jan 19, 2023 07:08
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Bank posted:Welp, got my Pilot back in the garage and all signs point to needing a new tranny. I got 5 codes (two are dupes, three are permanent..): hmm, i dont really know modern stuff so i cant advise much, but it sounds like the torque converter isn't locking up? or is doing so sporadically? maybe that was the jerkiness. can you (find and) unplug the lockup solenoid wherever it is, and drive it unlocked all the time? you would lose some economy, but if you don't want to dig into the trans to fix it, and this helps you limp it longer, it could be worth doing. someone who knows modern electronic transmissions double check if this is a terrible idea tho e: the overheating and misfiring is still def an issue tho. maybe get the head gasket checked before you spend a bunch of money on a radiator? and if you suspect the trans is getting water in it, take a look at the trans dipstick. if it looks clear dark red, thats normal. if it looks cloudy or like strawberry nesquick, thats a problem. Raluek fucked around with this message at 07:35 on Jan 19, 2023 |
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Jan 19, 2023 07:33
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ryanrs posted:OK then, all else being equal, I'm going to swap the CV axle, steering rack, and an A/C line, then degrease everything after all the new parts are in. I expect all three repairs are going to leak oil everywhere. Hey that's free rust proofing!
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Jan 19, 2023 09:08
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Welp, tranny fluid is burnt. It's not low, but definitely dark and it still smells. I think spending any more money on this thing is just throwing money down the drain. Maybe someone will buy it as-is and replace the tranny.
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Jan 19, 2023 17:28
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Bank posted:Welp, tranny fluid is burnt. It's not low, but definitely dark and it still smells. I think spending any more money on this thing is just throwing money down the drain. Maybe someone will buy it as-is and replace the tranny. Not telling you how to live your life but what if you buy some other used vehicle and it's transmission fails in 6 months? A rebuilt transmission for your vehicle is probably cheaper to buy and have installed than you'd think, and it'd be good for maybe the remaining life of the vehicle.
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Jan 20, 2023 00:39
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VelociBacon posted:Not telling you how to live your life but what if you buy some other used vehicle and it's transmission fails in 6 months? A rebuilt transmission for your vehicle is probably cheaper to buy and have installed than you'd think, and it'd be good for maybe the remaining life of the vehicle. In CA there's a dismantling program, the car just needs to drive 10 yards, which it can absolutely do. They'll then cut me a check for 1k. I'm going to find out what exactly they need on the car. If they just need the shell, engine and wheels, well, the body parts are coming off and gonna stay in my garage for parting out. I'm just glad I didn't buy new tires two weeks ago like I planned.
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Jan 20, 2023 02:03
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Yes, everyone should have a solid daily driver. Having one lets you take on more ambitious project cars.
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Jan 20, 2023 06:03
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About five years ago I stopped really driving much and it didn't make sense to carry insurance. I had started working where it was easy to bike or take the bus and it was just an expense. So my car has been sitting in my condo parking spot since then. I keep the battery in reasonable condition, run the engine occasionally (it's revving a little low but not in any major distress), and have insured it for a day so I can run the gas down and put some new stuff in a few times. But when I stopped really driving it I was in the middle of repairing it. The rear right strut had corroded through and I replaced both rear struts and fixed the alignment, but there's clearly still some other stuff wrong with the suspension to the point where it's not reasonably drivable until that's fixed. Also, the clutch is pretty shot. This is a 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback. Not a lot of kilometers because it's been sitting, but even in fair condition it's probably only $3,000 Canadian. Am I just being lazy to think it's probably just as easy to sell it to a scrapper for a thousand bucks +/-. Getting it to selling condition is going to mean I have to insure it, take it in somewhere to get the suspension issues troubleshot and fixed and probably find a bunch of stuff that's wonky from extended storage that I will either need to fix or disclose. I can't work on it myself where it is, either, and I don't really have a place where I could. I feel like costs are in the range of: Insurance for a couple of weeks: $200 Mystery suspension troubleshooting: $500 - $1000 Discount for a worn clutch: $750 Random poo poo because car has been sitting for years: ??? Gas for driving around and making sure everything actually works for a week or two: $100+ Fluids: $75 There just doesn't seem to be enough value in it to justify it. It feels like the upside is making a couple hundred bucks more if things are easy fixes, and the downside is spending money on investigating and then having to scrap it or sell it heavily discounted anyway when I find another thousand in work that needs to be done. I feel guilty about washing my hands of a car that has most of it's systems working fine though.
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Jan 20, 2023 07:40
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Any recommendations for cheap brake pads and rotors? Going on a 2014 Ford Transit Connect for what it's worth.
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Jan 20, 2023 18:39
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amenenema posted:Any recommendations for cheap brake pads and rotors? Going on a 2014 Ford Transit Connect for what it's worth. Rotors are rotors. Buy whatever. Don't buy cheap pads. Either buy them at the dealership, order OE or get whatever is the middle of the line at the parts store.
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Jan 20, 2023 18:44
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Motronic posted:Rotors are rotors. Buy whatever. What Motronic said. Never cheap out on brakes or tires. You aren't the only car on the road. That being said, you might be able to get away with resurfacing the rotors if they aren't too thin/bad. Also, if you're doing drum shoes, spend the $10-20 and get the hardware kit too. You'll thank yourself later. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 19:19
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amenenema posted:Any recommendations for cheap brake pads and rotors? Going on a 2014 Ford Transit Connect for what it's worth. The parts on Rock Auto seem really inexpensive. I'm with Motronic that rotors are rotors for the most part. Maybe splurge on some coated ones if you live somewhere rust is a concern. I'm personally a fan of Akebono brake pads, who are the OEM for most Ford vehicles (or at least the ones I've owned) and happily pay the small premium for them. Raybestos also makes good stuff in my experience with them. The last 2 brake jobs I did I used Raybestos rotors and Akebono pads and I was very happy with the results. How inexpensive are you looking to get here? Front? Rear? Both? If I was looking to do this for the least amount possible, I'd buy the Raybestos R-Line pads and rotors from Rock Auto. All 4 wheels is 176 dollars before shipping and tax. Shipping is 80 bucks to where I live. *not related, but I don't love the Akebono performance brake pads on my SHO (ASP series). I wish I would have just put the regular ones on (ACT series). They're great when they're nice and hot, but cold/normal driving around I don't love. them. second edit: If you do order parts online, don't be tempted by the cheapest stuff out there. Any sort of issue with the cheap parts or having to return something will totally negate the small amount of savings between a more name brand part. third edit: Make sure to triple check part numbers, it looks like there's a difference in brake parts depending on the wheelbase of the transit connect you have. the shorter wheel base (104") uses different front pads than the longer 120" wheelbase model. Not sure about front rotor size skipdogg fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 19:22
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T.C. posted:About five years ago I stopped really driving much and it didn't make sense to carry insurance. I had started working where it was easy to bike or take the bus and it was just an expense. So my car has been sitting in my condo parking spot since then. I keep the battery in reasonable condition, run the engine occasionally (it's revving a little low but not in any major distress), and have insured it for a day so I can run the gas down and put some new stuff in a few times. If you’re not going to replace it with another vehicle, it seems fair enough to let it go as-is. I agree that it is less than optimal from some perspectives, but such are the consequences. If you want to feel better about the situation, consider donating it to charity. If you are planning on purchasing another, it would probably be better to fix it and use it. You probably haven’t done irreversible damage, and there is some chance the car will be sold at auction, so you shouldn’t feel too bad no matter what you do.
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Jan 20, 2023 20:29
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Update on my Tucson and its ABS and headlight problems: The mechanic had found a rat nest between the main fuse box and the dashboard fuse box where something had chomped through eight wires. Repairing those wires got my headlights back but didn't recover my ABS. They're now looking into the opposite side of the front to see if something had moved in there and done the same for those wires I had seen disappear into the car before. Those wires had a ton of stuff going into the main ABS module.
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Jan 20, 2023 23:09
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amenenema posted:Any recommendations for cheap brake pads and rotors? Going on a 2014 Ford Transit Connect for what it's worth. Going against the grain a bit - Rockauto often has a complete rotor + pad set for a good price, even with shipping. Usually Centric or similar - it's not the best, but it's usually on par with the mid-tier stuff from most parts stores, so long as you go with the higher end set from Rockauto (ceramic etc). That would put everything pretty much on par with what a shop would put on, you just need to know how to "bed" them properly (it's usually a series of hard stops on a back road). Rotors are rotors - they're all slabs of cast iron - some might have some kind of coating that might keep them from sticking to the hubs. Slotted, drilled, etc is just a way to remove more money from your wallet (and make the rotors crack faster) unless you're tracking the car. Rocko Bonaparte posted:Update on my Tucson and its ABS and headlight problems: The mechanic had found a rat nest between the main fuse box and the dashboard fuse box where something had chomped through eight wires. Repairing those wires got my headlights back but didn't recover my ABS. They're now looking into the opposite side of the front to see if something had moved in there and done the same for those wires I had seen disappear into the car before. Those wires had a ton of stuff going into the main ABS module. Oof. Hopefully the damage isn't too bad. You're going to need a mechanic that really knows electrical, I hope the one you're working with has a good electrical person. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jan 21, 2023 |
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Jan 21, 2023 07:33
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OK, so finally got a chance to look at my own car after a fun morning wrestling with stuck hydraulics on the tractor, and the only code is P0302 cylinder 2 misfire detected. I can't see why bad fuel should cause issues in one cylinder only, I'm thinking pulling the plugs is going to be the next step? Also my stupid clumsy rear end managed to nudge the rearview mirror and in the cold the plastic mount just instantly shattered, so there goes another 20. Oh well.
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Jan 21, 2023 14:55
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Turn signal bulb went out on me on my vw beetle. I changed it myself. First time changing it myself on this car despite owning it for years so I'm irrationally proud of something probably any car owner should be able to do  . It's semi more annoying to change than most cars because I had to get behind the wheel well to do it but unscrewing the splash guard and doing it wasn't too bad. Now if I can just figure out what to do with my rear trim that's falling off....gonna look into that soon to see if I can do anything myself. Ginette Reno fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Jan 21, 2023 |
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Jan 21, 2023 21:33
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Update on my Tucson and its ABS and headlight problems: The mechanic had found a rat nest between the main fuse box and the dashboard fuse box where something had chomped through eight wires. Repairing those wires got my headlights back but didn't recover my ABS. They're now looking into the opposite side of the front to see if something had moved in there and done the same for those wires I had seen disappear into the car before. Those wires had a ton of stuff going into the main ABS module. I don't even know why rodents like chewing on wires. Bedding and other fluffy things, I get it. But wires. Why. melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jan 15, 2024 |
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Jan 21, 2023 21:41
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If I park my manual-transmission Mazda in 1st and forget the parking brake, the car slowly rolls forward. This doesn’t feel normal. I pulled up to a Sonic and it rolled back out of the stall. I park nose down my driveway, it rolls forward. It kind of rolls in spurts, like one cylinder being overcome at a time. This is bad, right? eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 00:43 on Jan 22, 2023 |
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Jan 22, 2023 00:21
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Does it pop out of 1st, then start rolling? Because otherwise that is very strange!
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Jan 22, 2023 00:40
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It stays in gear. I guess it’s less of a roll, and more of a series of slow plops. Am I losing compression?
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Jan 22, 2023 00:44
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Start by telling us what kind of car you have. The model, the year, it has a real clutch pedal?
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Jan 22, 2023 00:45
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Sorry, 2015 Mazda3 with a manual and a clutch. Gray.
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Jan 22, 2023 00:47
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And this is on gentle slopes, not something very steep? So weird! I will have to defer to more experienced car fixers.
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Jan 22, 2023 00:52
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eddiewalker posted:It stays in gear. I guess it’s less of a roll, and more of a series of slow plops. Am I losing compression? Yeah, that sounds like lack of compression. You might want to get it tested.
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Jan 22, 2023 00:53
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My buddy says it’s normal. At least from these replies I think he’s wrong.
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Jan 22, 2023 00:55
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With compression so low that the car rolls around in gear, wouldn't there be a ton of other symptoms? OP, any other problems with your car? Clutch slipping, terrible mileage, hard to start, consuming fluids, weak power, random stuff like that? e: and how many miles on the car? ryanrs fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 22, 2023 |
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Jan 22, 2023 00:57
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The car starts easily, runs and drives great. I bought it new and this rolling downhill is my first concerning incident in 160,000 miles. Still seems to get the same mileage as always.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:03
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eddiewalker posted:My buddy says it’s normal. At least from these replies I think he’s wrong. Don't make any decisions based on the opinions of a bunch of yahoos on the internet. If you think you might have a problem, get it to a mechanic and have it tested. If the compression is normal, then you're fine.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:04
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Man it’s got to be a hydraulic problem, right?
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Jan 22, 2023 01:05
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I really expected this to be a straightforward “oh yea, that’s what happens when your clutch goes” or something. I’m surprised that I cant find much about it on the internet.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:08
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Well the only three ways I can think of that your car would roll around when it's in gear and shut off are: - something in the driveline is broken and your wheels are just freewheeling - something in the valvetrain is broken and you have little or no compression - something in the clutch is broken and it's slipping. The first two are not possible if the car is running fine. It is quite possible that the clutch is starting to slip after 160,000 miles, especially if you or another regular driver have a habit of riding it. It could also be leaky hydraulics I suppose but I would tend towards it just being worn out. How far away from the floor is the clutch's friction zone? I.e. how far down do you have to push it in before it works? If you are driving quickly, make an upshift, and drop the clutch under power with the RPMs still high, does the RPM hang there for a second before settling down? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Jan 22, 2023 |
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Jan 22, 2023 01:12
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Sagebrush posted:Well the only three ways I can think of that your car would roll around when it's in gear and shut off are: Possibly with a hydraulic leak that is not noticeable with the pump running but I dunno.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:21
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eddiewalker posted:If I park my manual-transmission Mazda in 1st and forget the parking brake, the car slowly rolls forward. If its facing downhill, put it in reverse. Uphill, in first.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:45
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wesleywillis posted:If its facing downhill, put it in reverse. I already checked that in my driveway. I parked nose-down, it rolled in 1st or reverse. I turned it nose up, same thing.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:46
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