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The more permanent solution is to get a pipe heating cable and insulation for the entire drain run. you only need to keep it at like 45f
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Dec 25, 2022 04:06
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I got a new AC compressor and air handler put in this summer, the previous owners clearly sold me the house in the spring knowing that their AC was undersized/struggling during the scorching south Florida summers. So when the temperature reached 90, the AC would run all day every day to keep up and it would finally hit the 75 degree set point at 2AM. Refrigerant levels and pressures were all fine, just an undersized unit. I went up a size from a 4 ton to a 5 ton Daikin Fit Inverter. Anyway that’s just background reading, the new unit mostly worked with the exception of it killing the breaker in the panel (I replaced it with same size breaker) and then the condensate pump loving up. The dealer came out and replaced and relocated the pump for me last week. At some point, either during initial setup or when me and the techs were messing with the unit, it never got the heating configuration set on the thermostat. Because I’m in Florida, today was the first day of the year that I thought “hey I should switch from Cool to Heat”. I go to do so, and it’s not there. There’s no option at all. What the gently caress. I contact the AC dealer but it’s late on Christmas Eve and I know that’s not gonna get me anywhere. It’s not that cold, low of 38 F and house was still cruising at 66 F from the day, but I keep picturing Christmas Day with no heat and it’s making me upset. I fire up all my computers and set them to busy work to run a couple KW of “space heaters” in the meantime. The thermostat has a “dealer edit” button so I click that. It asks me for a PIN. One website says use 1111, another one says try the last 4 digits of the MAC. I go to the network settings and find the MAC address. *hacker voice* I’m in Sure enough when I go to the heating settings, thermostat thinks it has a 0 KW heater attached. I know that’s not right but I also don’t know what size I have. I go out to the garage where the air handler is and the installer very helpfully put a sticker on the front with a list of 20 heater model numbers and the instructions saying “check which one you install”. None of them are checked. So I take off the front panel, find the heater, find the model number sticker on it, Google it, find the specs to tell me the power, and it’s an 8 KW heater. I type “8” into the thermostat and exit dealer setup mode and boom I’ve got nice toasty air and the sweet sweet smell of 6 months of inactive heating coils burning off their dust.
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Dec 25, 2022 09:18
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I figured out why my basement is cold and why the water line to the refrigerator is frozen. What can I use to insulate/fill the gap between the PVC pipe and the line to the AC unit? Can of Spray foam insulation? Put on Gloves and stuff it full of pink fiberglass ? Silicone it from the inside? It’s going to 50 F this coming weekend so I should be able to fix the outside.  
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Dec 26, 2022 17:26
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Do Not use spray foam around copper pipes. the accelerents are corrosive to copper. silicone on the outside, and after it sets stuff pink insulation in the inside.
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Dec 26, 2022 17:35
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MRC48B posted:Do Not use spray foam around copper pipes. the accelerents are corrosive to copper. TY, I was worried spray foam might make future repairs a pita. Very glad I asked.
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Dec 26, 2022 17:40
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MRC48B posted:Do Not use spray foam around copper pipes. the accelerents are corrosive to copper. Are you sure about this? A quick Google search does not return any results about it. I'm curious because I'm pretty sure I have spray foam around my AC refrigerant lines.
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Dec 26, 2022 18:01
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MRC48B posted:Do Not use spray foam around copper pipes. the accelerents are corrosive to copper. This isn't a thing anyone needs to worry about. I'm curious why you are concernend. The "accelerents" are largely gone in a few minutes, almost completely gone in 24 hours.
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Dec 26, 2022 18:07
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tbh Its probably an urban legend with it reacting to solder flux, just what I was told by the old salts. still wouldn't use it. stuff is very difficult to remove, and doesn't move with the lines as they expand and contract thermally.
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Dec 26, 2022 18:11
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I have spray foamed the hell out of a lot of copper pipe cavities in my house. I'll let you know how it goes. Once a can is open I can't help myself.
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Dec 26, 2022 18:59
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H110Hawk posted:I have spray foamed the hell out of a lot of copper pipe cavities in my house. I'll let you know how it goes. Once a can is open I can't help myself. Once you pop, the foam don't stop
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Dec 26, 2022 22:32
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H110Hawk posted:I have spray foamed the hell out of a lot of copper pipe cavities in my house. I'll let you know how it goes. Once a can is open I can't help myself. The professional guns/cans will last quite a while and are reusable... not forever, but you can easily leave them attached for 6 months w/ no issues.
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Dec 29, 2022 01:10
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SpartanIvy posted:Hooking up old ductwork to a new unit is part of installation, not a modification. Yeah so I'm in the absolute poo poo with them now. Finally got the furnace installed today. They waived the CO detector charge but are insisting I pay $1700 for flue and duct modification but I have documented proof (because I went up and took pics of the old unit from every angle) that they flue and all ductwork is EXACTLY the same. There was no need for a single bit of modification or new equipment because the old and new units had the flu/ducts/etc all in the exact same spot. So basically just got off a very tense phone call and they claim that they literally can't do anything (of course they are). But it almost became a yelling match. I mean hell I'm willing to pay for most of the other bullshit charges (there was zero electrical work done outside of a standard install that should have been covered). But goddamn this is just a rip off. I even brought it up with the installer before he left (and this has nothing on him, he was great). He was like "yeah I don' t know... I didn't really have to do anything...maybe adjust the plenum a little?"  
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Dec 29, 2022 22:05
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You're getting into small claims territory. You can also potentially make a complaint to your licensing board. Those pictures are golden.
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Dec 29, 2022 22:24
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BonoMan posted:Yeah so I'm in the absolute poo poo with them now. Finally got the furnace installed today. They waived the CO detector charge but are insisting I pay $1700 for flue and duct modification but I have documented proof (because I went up and took pics of the old unit from every angle) that they flue and all ductwork is EXACTLY the same. There was no need for a single bit of modification or new equipment because the old and new units had the flu/ducts/etc all in the exact same spot. That's absolute bullshit and I'm so glad you have a bunch of pictures to call them on it. They are probably scamming 1,000 other people for every smart person like you.
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Dec 30, 2022 03:20
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edit: nm
OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Jan 9, 2023 |
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Dec 30, 2022 03:51
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SpartanIvy posted:That's absolute bullshit and I'm so glad you have a bunch of pictures to call them on it. They are probably scamming 1,000 other people for every smart person like you. So yeah now they're threatening to sue me for non-payment and won't let me talk to anybody else. Hooooo boy it's gettin' hot.
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Jan 3, 2023 18:13
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I'm sure there's a statute or regulation that governs disagreement over invoiced work, that also protects you. I'd expect, at worst, that you'd need to pay for any labor and materials that you both agree on, in a timely fashion. The non-agreed on labor/materials would then defer until it comes to a resolution.
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Jan 3, 2023 18:43
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Hey y'all. Trying to identify a component in my HVAC system. When dealing with the latest furnace replacing escapade I noticed this weird device (that is nice and moldy all around it) setting on my ductwork. I asked the HVAC guy that was replacing the furnace and he said maybe a dehumidifier (but didn't care to go look or anything). it looks old and gross and not sure if I need to have it serviced or removed or what.    Also because I'm dumb and had a little time on my hands, I did a little 3D mockup so you can get oriented to system. Mystery object is the red cube. Bonus Motronic content: If you remember in the Home thread - I had a leaky pipe and removed and fixed some drywall myself. During that I accidentally nicked two pipes in an exterior facing wall that I didn't know was there (and we weren't quite sure *what* they were). The below sketchfab mockup shows what they were. One from the AC and one from the mystery object I'm trying to identify. (humidifier would make sense since I'm guessing this is its drain). https://skfb.ly/oCUZT BonoMan fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jan 22, 2023 |
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Jan 22, 2023 01:16
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BonoMan posted:Hey y'all. Trying to identify a component in my HVAC system. That looks like a water line going to it from the side, so I'm going with Humidifier.
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Jan 22, 2023 01:24
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SpartanIvy posted:That looks like a water line going to it from the side, so I'm going with Humidifier. Yeah that makes sense. Might even be what the HVAC guy said, can't quite remember. Also I officially filed a license complaint against those guys so can't wait to hear back from that!
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Jan 22, 2023 01:35
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Is this a new install? It's... not great  The fact that your HVAC guys didn't recognize a humidifier is insane. Find the other end of that copper line, based on the way that looks, it probably ends in a saddle valve. These suck, and I wouldn't touch it unless you're prepared to replace the part of the pipe it's connected to.
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Jan 22, 2023 03:53
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devicenull posted:Is this a new install? It's... not great The only part that's new is the dark gray Goodman furnace. Everything else is from a very old install. City inspector has to come out and approve of everything though. That's next week. I'll make sure he checks the bend on the gas pipe and the wiring. As for the humidifier... that *may* have been what the HVAC guy said. I can't quite remember. But we were up there looking at other stuff and I just off-hand asked him about it and he looked over his shoulder and said "not sure.. might be a [humidifier or de-humidifier]." And that was that. This company sucks and I'm currently embroiled in an about-to-go-to-court situation with them over other stuff I posted about. But to answer some other questions: Yes that humidifier goes to a saddle valve at the hot water heater. I'm glad you mentioned that because when I first looked at the hot water heater (when we moved in a few months ago) I wondered - and even posted I think - about where it went. Now I know! The foremost pvc pipe in that pic goes straight down to a drip pan. The one immediately behind it, with the p trap lookin' thing, goes to the outside (as well as the one from the humidifier).
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Jan 22, 2023 05:12
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Are there reasonable ways to heat my attached garage? I have replaced seals on the man doors, overhead doors and insulated my wooden garage door but it’s still gets below 45. This is causing issues with various paints, stains and other finishes. Burning some sort of gas without ventilation seems dumb, which leaves me some sort heat pump or resistant heater. My understanding is that 110v heaters are basically just burning money.
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Jan 27, 2023 20:29
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Calidus posted:Are there reasonable ways to heat my attached garage? I have replaced seals on the man doors, overhead doors and insulated my wooden garage door but it’s still gets below 45. This is causing issues with various paints, stains and other finishes. Burning some sort of gas without ventilation seems dumb, which leaves me some sort heat pump or resistant heater. My understanding is that 110v heaters are basically just burning money. Electric resistance heaters, regardless of input voltage, are just burning money when you're trying to heat large spaces. Do you want to heat your garage because you want a heated garage or are you trying to solve the paint storage problem you mentioned? Because the former is going to be much more expensive than the latter. Even if you want the paint to remain in the garage - we're talking insulated storage cabinet with something akin to a 300 watt temperature controlled heater that will likely barely have to run.
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Jan 27, 2023 20:38
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Agree if your need is temp control for specific items, specific temp controlled storage for them is a way better way to do it.
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Jan 27, 2023 20:44
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Otherwise it's going to be like a grand to diy install a heat pump and then a bunch of electricity (but less than your resistance heater) to condition the space.
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Jan 27, 2023 20:53
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It’s less about storage and about applying them. I want be able to complete some woodworking projects in the garage. Ideally I would like the ability to keep my garage in the 50s when I working on a project. I am getting the impression this a more than a $1k to do correctly. Edit: hmm 1k was the limit I put on this in my head. Calidus fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jan 27, 2023 |
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Jan 27, 2023 20:55
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Calidus posted:It’s less about storage and about applying them. I want be able to complete some woodworking projects in the garage. Ideally I would like the ability to keep my garage in the 50s when I working on a project. I am getting the impression this a more than a $1k to do correctly. I still don't understand your requirements. If you only need to heat the space a few days a year electric resistance heat is fine. If you want it heated all the time cost depends on how cold it gets outside, how well insulated the garage is now (power consumption concerns) as well as the size of the space and what it's going to take to get a 20 amp 240v line to a place where you can install an outdoor compressor (unit cost and installation). Because yeah, constant conditioning of that space looks like a solution for a mini split heat pump and there is no way you're getting away with $1k for an install of one of those. It's going to be a lot more.
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Jan 27, 2023 20:59
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Yea sorry for not being clear a couple weeks maybe a month in a given year. I just got bit in rear end by ignoring temperature this last week so naturally I decided to spend all the money.
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Jan 27, 2023 21:04
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Calidus posted:Yea sorry for not being clear a couple weeks maybe a month in a given year. I just got bit in rear end by ignoring temperature this last week so naturally I decided to spend all the money. Then just put in sufficient electric resistance heat. They are reasonably cheap and cost is mostly going to depend on what it takes to get sufficient power to the garage for the amount of heat you'll need. If your panel is in there already you're in good shape. If it's in the basement on the opposite side of the house your $1k still might not be enough to get it done. A mini split for heat, if you're being realistic with the maybe a month a year, would take years and years to pay back the initial cost difference.
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Jan 27, 2023 21:07
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If you can diy the cheapest unit on the market you can get away with $1k. But if you want it to like guaranteed work, have a warranty, be highly efficient, or need electrical work done it's going to triple from there.
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Jan 27, 2023 21:07
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I have one more stupid question, I have been told by the house inspector and the hvac tech who installed my new AC (two different companies) that the existing furnace is oversized for my house. Is adding duct work with dampers to a garage a thing? Edit: it just dawned on me that with no return vents everything probably gets screwy. Calidus fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Jan 27, 2023 |
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Jan 27, 2023 22:12
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Calidus posted:I have one more stupid question, I have been told by the house inspector and the hvac tech who installed my new AC (two different companies) that the existing furnace is oversized for my house. Is adding duct work with dampers to a garage a thing? Do not duct your house into the garage. This might result in carbon monoxide leaking into your house.
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Jan 29, 2023 01:53
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devicenull posted:Do not duct your house into the garage. This might result in carbon monoxide leaking into your house. I am not brave(dumb) enough to do my own hvac work.
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Jan 29, 2023 02:42
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I installed a mini split in my free standing garage, well I had a professional do it. 1700 euros installed (Mitsubishi Electric Ninja FT25). One of the better decisions I made, now I keep a constant 12 C in there which is warmer than I used to keep it and the power consumption has more than halved for the garage. I used to have direct electric oil filled radiators. Electricity prices this winter has been about 600% more expensive than usual so this thing has really saved some money... I have my garage well insulated for what it's worth.
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Jan 29, 2023 09:23
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I did the diy Mr Cool mini split, and after putting an appropriate sub panel in the garage with the right wiring (that I lucked into a massive discount on) I figure I spent about $2500. My complaint is that the lowest you can have it heat is 60, at least if you use the comfy zone setting. I'd be fine with lower but it is what it is
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Jan 29, 2023 18:08
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60 is the lowest my Fujitsu one goes as well unless I press "min heat" which is intended as an anti-freeze feature and sets the thermostat to 50F inside. I imagine this would only work with the cabinets open and such. It's meant to be when you aren't home.
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Jan 29, 2023 18:58
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Calidus posted:I am not brave(dumb) enough to do my own hvac work. An alternative solution is an infrared radiant tube heater, either gas fired or electric. Commercial workshops and garages are heated with them. They work by heating people and objects directly (like feeling the warmth of the sun on a winter day), which then indirectly heat the remainder of the room. The electric versions are more effective than your usual electric space heater because you aren't needing to heat up the volume of air to heat up the thermal mass of the room, it's a direct transfer of heat that you immediately feel. So it's good for needing heat at a specific location within the room. Here's a residential example of a gas heater from Rinnai, there's probably cheaper brands out there. And I know Thermon makes a small electric version under the Caloritech brand, I've seen them over workbenches at a lab. https://www.rinnai.us/residential/he-infrared-tube-heater Depends on if it can even fit / if the garage door will crush it when it opens, but just thought I'd throw that out there. stratdax fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 2, 2023 |
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Feb 2, 2023 07:06
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I don't think radiant heat is appropriate in this case. You want the paint and the substrate on which the paint is applied, as well as the air, to be at the right temperature. With radiant heat, the paint cans themselves won't heat up if they're situated in a cabinet or on a shelf. The substrate/object to paint will get considerably hot when positioned right under the heater, but only on the side that is actually exposed the the 'shine' of the radiant heat. Any crevice or other shape that is casting a shadow (think 'bottom side of a chair' or 'wheel arches on a car', will not get warm. The top of the object could for instance be at a toasty 30 degrees C while the sides could easily be 10 degrees or colder. One side could get too hot to paint, while the other could remain too cold to paint. Radiant heat is great to make people more comfortable in a space that's way too cold for comfort, but the heating is very uneven so for 'technical' usage like this, it's not a good solution. Of course - if you run it for a decently long time, the things it's shining on will start to heat up and produce convective heat, and in turn heat up the whole room evenly - but you're better off getting a convection heater right away. If you're painting, get a convection heater without a blower to prevent dust particles from being kicked up. Better get some oil filled electric radiators than one of those big boxy fan blower heaters. Fanless coil heaters are fine too, but they tend to get very smelly in garage-like environments, if dust or spider webs get into it. Final thing to keep into account: every electric heater thermostat causes a tiny spark when switching off. Make sure that if you use solvent based paints, that you have proper ventilation and don't accidentally blow up your garage.
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Feb 3, 2023 12:00
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I've got a question I haven't been able to find an answer for. I moved into a new house this past June and last night was the first major cold snap we had. The entire winter so far the baseboard gas heat has done well at keeping the temp near the set point, which I usually have as 68, but last night was a different story. The first floor was sitting in the 50s and when I woke up this morning it was in the 40s. The upstairs was ok in the mid 60s, and I set the heat in the attic and basement to 55 or so to try to keep the pipes safe (basement in particular is OK as not much surface area to lose heat and the general geothermal effect) but I have no idea what's going on with the first floor. It's 5 degrees this morning and 45-50 on the first floor. Baseboards feel sometimes warm sometimes hot to the touch despite being set to 70. I've asked the previous owner if this was an issue they had but no response. I'm trying to narrow down next steps. Is it possible there's a setting on the heater I'm not seeing? I saw the pipe labeled "first floor" and it's set to open. Is it a mechanical issue, or maybe the heater and baseboards just can't keep up with the severe cold? Do I need better insulation? The house was built in 1930, and the gas burner for the heat is 35 years old but the inspection put it as good condition. Is there anything I should do in the short-term (I imagine trying to get a heating tech out here during a cold snap on the weekend will be impossible) or anything I should do in the long-term? Any advice appreciated! edit: finally found someone with availability on Monday. Hopefully the warming weather today will mean there's not much issue. Tom Tucker fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 17:48
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