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meatpimp posted:I knew if I dug enough on Amazon, I'd find it: https://www.amazon.com/Navigation-A...97-eb60747b8daf So, just so you know, I'm pretty sure that this unit just works through the aux input of the radio (not the setting on the head unit.) It's a standalone display that does CarPlay/Android Auto and then pipes the audio to the head - which is fine in cases like this, where it's a major PITA to replace the OEM unit. It's basically an Android tablet customized for auto use, and made to fit in the Acura's dash, in this case. There are more universal ones available, too. edit: I think it's essentially an Android head unit all to itself, since I see FM on there, too.
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Jan 9, 2023 20:51
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I just acquired a 2005 Ford Escape as a dog transportation device, camping vehicle, and Costco wagon. It currently has the original double-din CD changer from that magical era after the cassette deck and before the aux jack. I want to put in something that will work as an android auto display. I want either the cheapest thing that "just works" and has a good enough screen, or I'm willing to pay extra for something with a quality non-touch interface like BMW iDrive or whatever Mazda calls theirs.
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Jan 18, 2023 17:12
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Gangringo posted:I just acquired a 2005 Ford Escape as a dog transportation device, camping vehicle, and Costco wagon. It currently has the original double-din CD changer from that magical era after the cassette deck and before the aux jack. Double-DIN + Ford is pretty easy. Only concern would be whether or not it has the Premium Audio (JBL) with outboard amps. If it does, then it's potentially different plugs (well, one different plug) for the head unit, and you have the option of bypassing the amp. I'm not aware of any current non-touch interface devices beyond steering wheel controls, whether add-on or OEM. The NVX subwoofer in my Crown Vic stopped working the other day.  Well, that's not good. Further investigation:  OK  Ah. It's dual 2-ohm voice coils wired to 4 ohms to run the map bridged, because I couldn't be arsed to add a second terminal plate to the box. Same power running bridged as 2 x 2 ohm, of course. My solution was to just run one voice coil and one channel of the amp. That worked for about a week. It's dead again. I haven't tested it, but I assume that the other voice coil burned up. Supposedly, this amp (Planet Audio AC2400.4) is rated for 450W RMS per channel @ 2 ohms, 900W RMS per channel bridged, so I *may* have been overdriving the poor thing. I got almost 2 years out of it, and the Square Trade warranty paid out $41 (I paid $49.95 plus tax and shipping,) so not too upset. I've just gambled on a Skar Audio SDR-10 DV2 ($75). Reviews look good, particularly for the price point. It's rated for 600W RMS, 1200W max. Still less than the supposed power output of the amp, but I don't believe it actually puts out that much. My current box is small for it ported, a little bit too big for it sealed (box is 1.25 cu. ft., sub wants 1.65 ported - with a fairly large port - and .95 sealed.) I'm going to try sealing the current port at the inside end and running it sealed, and build a new slot-ported box if I feel like it. As I understand it, when a manufacturer gives you a port area, the standard is that size opening, and 16" of port length inside the box. And I bought a pair of terminal plates so I can wire it up properly.
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Jan 18, 2023 19:18
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Sealed boxes are kind of obsolete these days unless you're running it more like a midbass than an actual sub. I certainly wouldn't switch to a box style with poorer low frequency extension, lower output, and worse power handling when you just blew up the last driver in a better box. If you're going to do anything with your old box I'd either just keep it how it is, or maybe extend the port to drop the tuning a little. Being a class AB amp with 2x 35 amp fuses, there's no chance it puts out anything remotely close to what it's rated at. Its probably more like 600 watts total if you're lucky. You still probably want to take a look at your gains to make sure you're not just clipping the poo poo out of it and risking blowing up the new one too. That amp doesn't have a clipping indicator so if you wanna do some nerd poo poo and make your own temporary one for extremely cheap here's a neat video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAn4WGny-gE
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Jan 18, 2023 23:11
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Oh, that's handy. I'm pretty good at nerd poo poo. I had no faith it was putting out nearly the advertised power but had not done the math on the fuse (which I knew about thanks to Williston Audio Labs.) I've already drawn up the new box. Just need to get my dang contractor saw back from the buddy who borrowed it, though I do have a saw guide for my circular saw if need be. It'll be the same box, just about 8" wider with a big ol' rectangular hole at one end. edit: the amp does seem to act up from time to time, losing the left channel(s) until I turn it up a bit. Not sure what the deal is there, but it's not the head unit (it did the same with the previous one) and the front speakers have also been replaced. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jan 19, 2023 |
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Jan 19, 2023 21:30
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Got my Skar Audio SDR-10 D2! Ok, so the box recommendation on the Skar Audio website don't match the box recommendations that came in the box with the driver. The site recommends 1.65 cu. ft. and a tuning of 39 Hz:  The instruction sheet say 1 cu. ft. and 32 Hz:  Oy. FWIW, both locations cite the same TS parameters, so this is just a difference of tuning. Current box is 1.28 cu. ft. without accounting for the woofer or port displacement. the current port is tuned to ~31 Hz, and is 1.5" ID x 2.87" long (yes, I know it's a bit small and potentially noisy. There was limited room on the face of the box - and I didn't realize it shouldn't be a problem to put it on the side.) I'm using 0.049 cu. ft for the displacement of the driver, using numbers from a similar JL Audio, since Skar doesn't seem to publish that... Port displacement is pretty much negligible (.004 cu. ft.), so net internal volume is about 1.23 cu. ft. A little bit larger that the instruction sheet, and ~0.4 cu. ft. smaller than the website. Oy. I'm inclined to just jam the thing into the existing box and see how it sounds. edit: farting around with calculators, specifically https://speakerboxlite.com/subwoofer-box-calculato, which has a driver database (that also has the Vd of the driver: 1.16L or .041 cu. ft., so .049 wasn't far off) it seems the 1 cu. ft. box is the way to go. I finally got something approaching 1.65 cu. ft (47L) if I put in that I wanted a flat response, and that 47 liters is gross internal volume, not including the driver or port displacement. Every other calculation gave me about 1 cu.ft. - less if I wanted "boom". Using that calculator to just stuff it into my exiting box looks decent. I think. If I'm reading the graphs right. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Jan 20, 2023 |
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Jan 20, 2023 17:14
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Darchangel posted:I'm inclined to just jam the thing into the existing box and see how it sounds.
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Jan 20, 2023 18:49
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Lowclock posted:I'd say your current box design seems fine except for that tiny little port. A 3" port like 10" long would be a lot more reasonable. If you want to build something slot ported, I've always found this style works great, with maybe a little tweaking if you really insist on tuning really low. Unfortunately, I can't make the port any bigger without taking the box apart. I centered the driver when it was a sealed box for a JL Audio 10W1, and 1.5" was all I had room for. I may see how terrible it would be to yank the speaker baffle and make a new one with an offset woofer so I can put in a bigger pipe. The whole thing is glued and screwed, plus silicone sealant. If I use a slot, it'll take up more of the internal space, so I'd have to watch that. Actually, it occurs to me I could just put another panel over the original and cut out as needed and get some doubling!
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Jan 20, 2023 21:09
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I'm looking at installing a JL Audio 10TW3-D4 into a sealed subwoofer box. I'm leaning towards the 10TW3 because it's only 3-1/4" deep and is optimized for a sealed box volume of 0.52 cu.ft. which matches up almost exactly with the specs of my sub box. Would the Kicker 47KEY500.1 be powerful enough for this amp or should I be looking at another solution? I like the KEY500.1 because it's a compact amp with built in DSP. JL Audio 10TW3-D4: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Y6k7HPUuvCd/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html Kicker 47KEY500.1: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-YlyLA7VtNGh/p_20647KEY50/Kicker-47KEY500-1.html
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Jan 23, 2023 02:32
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Is this for replacing a stock sub that came in the car? If so I'd double check that the cutout diameter and screw pattern will actually work because subs tend to vary on fitment a lot more than midranges, especially JL, who practically invented Weird Mounting poo poo. I'm all about DSP stuff, but that amp seems to just tweak the gain and maybe do some other kind of weird input compensation that probably isn't useful unless you have weird integration issues. If you can fit "normal" gear you'll either save a ton of money or gain a lot of performance, but if that stuff will fit I guess it's fine.
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Jan 23, 2023 19:31
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Lowclock posted:Is this for replacing a stock sub that came in the car? If so I'd double check that the cutout diameter and screw pattern will actually work because subs tend to vary on fitment a lot more than midranges, especially JL, who practically invented Weird Mounting poo poo.
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Jan 23, 2023 20:49
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Got the Skar Audio sub into the box and it sounds pretty dang good. Should get better as it breaks in. It seems reasonably happy in the box. There is, as predicted, quite a bit of port noise at certain frequencies. It's in the trunk, so typically I can't hear it, though. I probably will put another face on the box with the holes in an arrangement to allow a larger port, though, eventually. Old:   Remaining voice coil defnitely dead:  Putting in the second terminal cup:   Had to get a new grille because LOL:  New driver in:  Back in your hole!  Thanks, y'all for the sanity check, and helping me work through the details.
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Jan 23, 2023 21:50
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Mr. Apollo posted:It's for replacing a stock sub, but it'll be mounted in a box designed to fix in a storage cubby in the trunk so it won't be in the stock sub location. Darchangel posted:Got the Skar Audio sub into the box and it sounds pretty dang good. Should get better as it breaks in. It seems reasonably happy in the box.
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Jan 23, 2023 23:19
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So my Atoto F7 XE has been rebooting/freezing at times since I bought it, seemingly more frequently lately. I bought the same radio for my buddy and his has been flawless, so I figured it was time to do a firmware update. Something hosed up and my stereo is bricked. I'm very pissed, because I can get no help until after Chinese New Year.
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Jan 25, 2023 18:17
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drat, thats a bummer...im considering getting an atoto for my element...might just go with BOSS instead. and i might just spring for the 30 dollar asurion 3yr warranty
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Jan 26, 2023 05:01
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Lowclock posted:Yeah I guess if that's all the space you're willing to give up and you might just have to take what you can get. That price seems kind of ridiculous but it should serve you well. However, I will die on the hill of "just buy a 3k full-bridge and turn it down" when it comes to amplifiers. They're small, AND affordable! Thanks, ordered a couple of those ports. I'll need to add a bit to a pair of them - I got a calculated length of 14" for 3" - but I'll figure something out. Probably 3" PVC adjusted to fit if necessary. Also ordered some of their RCA cables to try in my wife's Outback. I've got noise issues, and it's almost definitely being induced in the cables, since it'll do it without the head unit connected, but the RCAs connected to the amp, AND with ground loop isolators installed. The cables I used are UTP. Going to try shielded cables.
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Jan 26, 2023 22:25
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I fixed my head unit with some help with the guys in the atoto Reddit. Listening to the radio from your phone in the cupholder loving sucks, I'm glad I don't have to do that for 5+ hours tomorrow.
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Jan 27, 2023 01:52
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BraveUlysses posted:drat, thats a bummer...im considering getting an atoto for my element...might just go with BOSS instead. and i might just spring for the 30 dollar asurion 3yr warranty I have the same unit and it totally slaps for the price so... go for it!
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Jan 27, 2023 02:05
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Darchangel posted:I got a calculated length of 14" for 3" E: and if you really like low bass, check out an Audiocontrol Epicenter and make EVERYTHING play down there (or if you're a psycho, install a DAW/VST host and poo poo in your trunk) Lowclock fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jan 28, 2023 |
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Jan 28, 2023 00:50
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A couple years back, I put a new head unit in my 2001 Miata. It has a Bose factory sound system with an amp and hideously low impedance speakers, so standard aftermarket fitments all include an attenuator box. I bought it all from Crutchfield, and discovered their pre-made wiring harness didn't give me enough room to put the attenuator in any of the places where it would actually fit. I ran out, bought a spool of wire and some crimp connectors at the nearest place that sold them, and got it working. Unfortunately, something has come loose, and the right channel keeps dropping out on me. I'm assuming the weak point is where I spliced in the extra length of wire at the attenuator. I'm going to pick up that Klein crimper someone recommended up thread. What's the best way to connect the splices and still preserve some flexibility? I ended up shoving the attenuator in a cavity around the back of the double-DIN slot and off to the side, so those wires are going to need to bend a lot. I don't really want to learn to solder just for this.
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Jan 28, 2023 18:31
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If space is a big problem, you might be better off with uninsulated or heat shrink covered butt connectors and covering them yourself, or closed end "crimp caps" if you can shove the bundle in a corner alone. Just as long as you don't try to wrap a big harness tightly with electrical tape things should stay flexible enough. However with the way you said it comes and goes, I also wouldn't assume it was your crimp that failed.
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Jan 28, 2023 21:04
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Got any other suggestions as to what to look for?
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Jan 28, 2023 21:55
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Zorak of Michigan posted:Got any other suggestions as to what to look for?
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Jan 28, 2023 23:11
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You can rest assured that I've given the deck near the speaker a good number of diagnostic blows. Since it's the right side that cuts out, I've been unable to beat it the way it may deserve. I gave thought to having someone put in new speakers and bypassing the Bose amp, but I only expect to keep this car another 18 months or so.
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Jan 29, 2023 00:45
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This is like the easiest thing to diagnose. Double up on your left channel and run that signal to the right speaker wires. If it fixes it, then your wiring is good. Re-do the splice to the right channel signal, if it goes out again then either you can't splice wires or the deck is bad.
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Jan 29, 2023 01:06
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Nocheez posted:This is like the easiest thing to diagnose. Double up on your left channel and run that signal to the right speaker wires. If it fixes it, then your wiring is good. Re-do the splice to the right channel signal, if it goes out again then either you can't splice wires or the deck is bad. a) very good point except b) it is entirely possible I can't splice wires
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Jan 29, 2023 01:16
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Lowclock posted:Yeah it's obviously up to what you want to tune it to. 3x10 should be like 35-ish hz. I'm not a big fan of tuning boxes super low or "flat" because there's just not much actual material down there in normal music, and it gives up a ton of output everywhere above it. If you like a bunch of screwed stuff or actual bass CDs then yeah gently caress it, make it 18" long. 14" is 32 Hz as I recall, so yeah, 10"/35 Hz would probably be fine. Do they still make Epicenters? I remember those from my youth, when sound-offs were a very big thing. edit: It still sounding good back there. I'm still happy. Of course, my wife informed me that the powered sub I just installed in the Outback made a wub-wub noise and quit yesterday... I think the Subaru hates me.
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Jan 30, 2023 19:26
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Darchangel posted:Do they still make Epicenters? I remember those from my youth, when sound-offs were a very big thing.
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Jan 31, 2023 01:44
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Lowclock posted:Sealed boxes are kind of obsolete these days unless you're running it more like a midbass than an actual sub. I certainly wouldn't switch to a box style with poorer low frequency extension, lower output, and worse power handling when you just blew up the last driver in a better box. Sealed enclosures typically play lower than ported unless you're specifically building one focused on targeting lower frequency output like for home theater tuned in the 20s. Typical ported for a vehicle geared toward music are tuned between 32-35hz. Sealed will have lower output given the same input wattage. Sealed enclosures actually have higher power handling capabilities especially below tuning on a ported enclosure where power handling disappears quickly. Sealed isn't obsolete for sound quality focused installations but sound quality focused installations are becoming more rare unfortunately. With the rise of super cheap power amps and alternators/lithium to run them, it's interesting that things aren't moving more toward sealed as you now have the power to get as much output as you need even giving up that approximately 3db but alas if you ain't clipping to death on subs in a huge ported enclosure tuned to 40Hz, do you really slap? Thanks for attending my Ted Talk.
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Jan 31, 2023 04:40
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I guess technically a sealed box might play lower eventually at some point because it has a shallower roll-off and doesn't unload below tuning, but I don't know why anyone would care about that area where music and even audible sound mostly doesn't exist instead of the huge area of actually useful bandwidth where the ported box was flatter and 10+db up on it.
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Jan 31, 2023 06:44
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A sealed enclosure has a flatter frequency curve than ported. That's why they're generally more utilized in SQ. They require less EQ to flatten the frequency response. A ported enclosure isn't going to give you +10db of output over sealed aside from around the tuning frequency of the port but that's the problem. You end up using EQ to pull that down so that it doesn't sound like crap. Unless you're competing in SPL and just trying to hit the highest db level at a given frequency. If you're doing that, you're likely tuning way higher than you would for an enclosure targeted at playing back music and it's no longer suitable for music or you're running bandpass of some kind. Not trying to be anti ported. They're great. There are just trade offs to each type of enclosure.
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Jan 31, 2023 14:53
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Okay, big annoying question. I've done four(?) Single DIN head unit swaps including GM ones and I finally got fed up and decided I'd put my first LCD double DIN unit in my 2005 Sierra. The factory radio works, fyi, so I'm pretty certain the harness is good. I got a harness adapter and spliced everything up, did continuity checks and plugged in the Pioneer head unit... ...nothing. No power. I checked and the yellow/constant power was good both with and without the car on but no power on the red/ignition power line. I am inclined to say it's not the head unit but I seem to have continuity on the red wire from the adapter pin to the head unit plug. Any suggestions?
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Feb 4, 2023 20:56
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Sounds like you have it figured out. No power at the red switched power wire. If that's on the factory side of the plug check the fuse. Not much else it could be. If you have power at the plug and not the head unit, check your crimp connections. Make sure to wiggle them around, it might test fine on the bench but lose continuity when jammed in the dashboard. Next check the harness and make sure the person assembling 900 of these per hour got the wire in the right hole. I once had a metra harness adapter wired 100% mirror image from what it should have been. Fortunately on those it's just a matter of unsnapping the connector lock and putting them where they go. Also fortunately the power wires weren't re-routed to anything that could damage the unit. Head units have fuses on the back, also check those. Double check that the plug is seated in the head unit, some can false snap. After all this you're looking at something strange like a bad factory crimp on one of the wires or a bent pin, or an internal head unit failure. You can try touching 12v to the head unit with it out of the car, it should light up and stuff. Also make sure it's not something really dumb like you have to hold the power button down for a real long time to get it to activate. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 21:28
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You probably need something like this because it turns the factory deck on with a serial bus and not just a normal switched 12v wire. E: Or you could grab switched 12v elsewhere if you feel comfortable doing that and don't care about losing chimes/retained power/onstar and all that poo poo. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 21:57
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Lowclock posted:You probably need something like this because it turns the factory deck on with a serial bus and not just a normal switched 12v wire. That's probably it. Since the last GM I did was a 97, it just used a normal switched 12 volt wire. When you pointed to that product, I realized that all of my safety chimes haven't been turning on without the radio installed, so I suspect I need something else. It's weird that both of that and the basic wire were considered appropriate for my truck. Edit: dumb question, but shouldn't it still work even without that data interface? How does the serial bus work? Blindeye fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Feb 5, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 23:49
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Blindeye posted:Edit: dumb question, but shouldn't it still work even without that data interface? How does the serial bus work?
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Feb 5, 2023 07:41
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The fact that I didn't know that was a thing makes me feel strangely out of touch and obsolete. drat. Like I know steering wheel controls often come over a bus but not the power signal itself.
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Feb 5, 2023 18:10
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LloydDobler posted:The fact that I didn't know that was a thing makes me feel strangely out of touch and obsolete. drat. Like I know steering wheel controls often come over a bus but not the power signal itself.
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Feb 5, 2023 23:13
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LloydDobler posted:The fact that I didn't know that was a thing makes me feel strangely out of touch and obsolete. drat. Like I know steering wheel controls often come over a bus but not the power signal itself. Neither did I, and it makes a lot of sense. As in I understand it, not that I think it's ideal. My GMC will let the radio play when I turn it off until the drivers door opens. I'm used it it being door dependent, other cars have done it for me on any door. This truck, just the drivers door. I've actually had a couple instances where I was letting it play while I was in the passenger or back seat and when I exited the truck via those doors I had it to open and shut the drivers door to shut it off immediately instead of letting it time out. Speaking of, I've been considering replacing the stereo, 2015 Sierra, so I can add wireless Android Auto. I assume there are good items that tie in, am I looking at a weekend day install or a nightmare of rewiring?
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Feb 6, 2023 21:16
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Lowclock posted:Your stock radio looks for digitized messages from a single wire that tells it to turn on, turn off, make the chime noise, or switch to on-star or whatever. It doesn't have any reason to have the classic switched 12v red wire that your aftermarket radio is looking for to turn it on and off. Whether your get that switched 12v from a fancy module that also reproduces the chimes and stuff, or from somewhere else like tapped off another circuit is up to you, but it won't work without it. My brother-in-law's Cobalt did that. It literally didn't have a switched power wire on the vehicle side. I was ready for that, since Crutchfield's installation guide for it points it out, along with several other installer sites. I had to pick up power form another circuit in the fuse block, which is conveniently in the center console below the radio on that car. In his car's case, since he bought a base model, it didn't have OnStar and none of the driver info center stuff came through the radio, so I didn't have to deal with that. The models above that sent all the chimes and DIC noises through the stereo, including using the display. His just had an in-dash display and separate noise box. The aftermarket does make a black box that handles the upper models, though.
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Feb 7, 2023 00:10
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