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devicenull posted:Is there a good option for outdoor cable management that isn't conduit? I've got a bunch of low voltage wiring (cable, fiber, doorbell...). I can clean it up with some zipties, but I'd like something a little more finished. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...-C210/202264878 It's paintable too, so you can paint it the same as your siding. I wouldn't rely on the peel and stick backing though, but it's plastic so you can sink a couple screws in through the back. If you want something that's metal, there's also this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-Wiremold-700-Series-10-ft-Metal-Surface-Raceway-Channel-in-White-700WH/100144606 The back slides out and you can use external clips to attach it to surfaces. It's also paintable, and has surface mount junction boxes available.
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# ? Jan 19, 2023 09:54 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:07 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand...-C210/202264878 I was thinking about something like the former, but I wasn't sure the plastic was going to stand up to the UV of being outside 24/7. The metal looks interesting, I'll poke around to see if I can find one that snaps together, rather then slide together.
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# ? Jan 20, 2023 03:02 |
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Motronic posted:Oh that's a pro click. Wait until you see https://www.grandbrass.com . https://vintagewireandsupply.com/ is also nice for reproduction cloth covered wire. They even got reproduction vintage plugs, like those nearly flat "acorn" plugs from a hundred years ago, yet polarized for modern safety ideals. Csammis, I'm with Motronic. I love collecting useful websites like that. It's almost up there with https://www.thistothat.com ! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Jan 23, 2023 |
# ? Jan 23, 2023 06:35 |
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Nice. I actually got one of those acorn plugs for a project. They are.......not safe. Protected by a piece of cardboard on the bottom of them just like the olden days. Mine is "permanently" in a single outlet near the ceiling so it's fine.
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# ? Jan 23, 2023 14:57 |
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Motronic posted:Nice. I actually got one of those acorn plugs for a project. They are.......not safe. Protected by a piece of cardboard on the bottom of them just like the olden days. When did these things get phased out? I've never seen one, I'm 37. Maybe they didn't come to Canada? Maybe by the time people lived on the west coast they were already gone? I don't know anything about this.
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# ? Jan 23, 2023 15:20 |
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VelociBacon posted:When did these things get phased out? I've never seen one, I'm 37. Maybe they didn't come to Canada? Maybe by the time people lived on the west coast they were already gone? I don't know anything about this. The originals were made of bakelite so I'm guessing they were end of production in the 40s or early 50s at the latest.
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# ? Jan 23, 2023 15:54 |
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Image searching “acorn plug” gives a wide variety of results!
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# ? Jan 23, 2023 15:55 |
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What do I need for adding some buttons to our garage door openers, just 22/2 security wire?
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# ? Jan 23, 2023 16:30 |
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Winifred Madgers posted:What do I need for adding some buttons to our garage door openers, just 22/2 security wire? Should do
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# ? Jan 24, 2023 01:14 |
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This seemed like the best thread but idk Our company is trying to buy an oscilloscope for general oscilloscope purposes, but we're not really electrical engineers. Which maker currently has the best network and usb access features? Our workflow would really work better if we have a good ability to interface with the device over network or usb, esp if there's an exposed API that is reasonable to work with.
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# ? Jan 24, 2023 19:06 |
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Mirconium posted:This seemed like the best thread but idk Just about anything modern does this. I've done it with my standard issue $400 Rigol DS1054Z. https://www.cibomahto.com/2010/04/controlling-a-rigol-oscilloscope-using-linux-and-python/ https://instrumentkit.readthedocs.io/en/latest/apiref/rigol.html
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# ? Jan 24, 2023 19:30 |
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This thread might be a little more on-topic for scope talk: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977 Or check out the eevblog test equipment forums: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/ Lastly, the one comment I'd have is if for any process reasons you're going to need to get the scopes calibrated periodically, you might want to check with local cal labs to make sure they'll work on whatever you pick and it won't cost extra for custom procedures.
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# ? Jan 24, 2023 19:32 |
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Have a ceiling fan that suddenly started strobing if I run the light on; if I use one bulb of a 40w equivalent led bulb it works fine, but 2 or more and it starts strobing immediately as you turn it on, a 60w bulb does the same and 3 60w bulbs do not turn on at all. I have no reason to think the circuits overloaded, and nothing else seems affected. Is the likely cause loose connections in the fan head?
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# ? Jan 25, 2023 17:58 |
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Mirconium posted:This seemed like the best thread but idk Tektronix is the best hands down IMO. But, you will pay for it… and from the general nature of your question, a Rigol or Siglent probably would be highest bang for buck. You want LXI support and/or a VISA interface to make sure it will play with automation.
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# ? Jan 25, 2023 20:11 |
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Are you trying to build a test stand (which usually means a remote controlled rack mounted scope behind a switch matrix), or are you looking for a bench scope (where good remote control is unusual because you are typically doing one offs and manually moving probes)?
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# ? Jan 25, 2023 23:24 |
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freeasinbeer posted:Have a ceiling fan that suddenly started strobing if I run the light on; if I use one bulb of a 40w equivalent led bulb it works fine, but 2 or more and it starts strobing immediately as you turn it on, a 60w bulb does the same and 3 60w bulbs do not turn on at all. Yes. A neutral came loose up in the head and the fan motor is running through the light bulb in series. Since you have an inductor and capacitor in series, they're effectively cancelling each other out.
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# ? Jan 26, 2023 00:54 |
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Ewwwwwww… Windstorm on Christmas knocked out some of my driveway's outdoor lights (LED wallpacks)... and the motion sensors had stopped working for awhile, so I dove into it this past weekend since the replacements came in. (RAB WPLED10). Turns out the installers never sealed the tops of the poles where these are installed... ugh. Wet vac'd this out, but I'm not looking forward to going through 12 of the others, cleaning / drying and then resealing them. I spent a few hours labeling and tracing the wires to separate from the always-on, motion sensors, and so on. Further context (another post further down the driveway). At least this seems to have been wired with California 3-way in mind... all the spare conductors needed to have two motion sensors in parallel, run some of the lights as pilots / always-on, and others off the sensors. I do have what I feel like is one 'leftover' wire though... I kept it as a neutral, but will sketch it out later and post here. movax fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jan 27, 2023 |
# ? Jan 27, 2023 05:03 |
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I don't know if this belongs here or the general home thread, but it's electricity related so... Our garage has a light switch that controls a wall-mounted light socket: It's the only light switch in the garage and there are no overhead lights out there. I'd like to run some brighter overhead lighting from it. Is there any reason that using a socket outlet like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DN6QX2/ To power a series of LED overhead lights like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBT3BVM/ Is a bad idea? The listing says that they draw 20w of power, which is less than a 40w bulb (edit: as I was writing this I realized it says 20w per light and there are 6 lights, so that's maybe a problem). Is there more to consider than just watts used, or are those socket plugs a bad idea for some reason? I'm very ignorant about electrical stuff and I'd rather not burn down my garage.
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# ? Jan 29, 2023 22:20 |
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incogneato posted:I don't know if this belongs here or the general home thread, but it's electricity related so... Watts are watts. A screw in socket is normally rated for 600w. 6 x 20w = 120w, one fifth the max rating of the fixture you're replacing. You're fine. I'd be more worried about the wiring in between. Look into wire molding. Take the socket off the wall and put a wire molding box extension/cover over the wall box to start the run up to the ceiling. If the circuit is 15 amps, use 14 gauge wire in the wire molding. If the circuit is 20 amps, use 12. Plan out wire mold path as best you can. You'll need at least one elbow at the wall/ceiling transition. Think of any other elbows and tees that you'll need. This is one of those projects where you should buy more pieces than you think you'll need, then return everything that you ended up not using. That includes wire. If you're going to be running 2 strings of lights at 3 each, get enough wire to run into the closest string, then from there back to the tee to the farther string. You can put wire mold boxes on the ceiling with regular outlets in them. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Jan 29, 2023 |
# ? Jan 29, 2023 23:25 |
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Is it allowable to have 240V outlets in "normal" rooms? Not like a kitchen or garage.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 19:56 |
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That is a question that needs a lot more context to answer.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:05 |
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Does code allow for 3 phase power to a toilet??
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:08 |
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Japanese toilets are getting out of hand.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:13 |
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corgski posted:That is a question that needs a lot more context to answer. Just nice to have options?
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:25 |
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Slugworth posted:Does code allow for 3 phase power to a toilet?? I'm hoping this is for that solid copper toilet from the Crappy Construction thread
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:30 |
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slurm posted:Just nice to have options? Ok the answer then is that you really shouldn't unless you have a specific need for one.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:31 |
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Slugworth posted:Does code allow for 3 phase power to a toilet?? Now I feel the need to find a giant twist-lock to use with connecting up the bidet
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:51 |
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if your bidet doesn't have a 20hp pump then you're not living life to the fullest
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:53 |
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DaveSauce posted:if your bidet doesn't have a 20hp pump then you're not living life to the fullest Injection injuries are extremely serious you know, I wouldn't be joking about that.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 20:58 |
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corgski posted:Ok the answer then is that you really shouldn't unless you have a specific need for one. I just want it at my indoor workbench for testing 220V control components in the heat/AC with my other electronics stuff, it's a "nice to have".
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 21:33 |
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slurm posted:I just want it at my indoor workbench for testing 220V control components in the heat/AC with my other electronics stuff, it's a "nice to have". I'd be curious to hear the NEC reasoning against it, if any, (outside of the usual motivation of stop idiots from stringing extension cords and causing fires). NEMA 14-15 receptacles exist, though now that I think about it, I don't see those plugs super often... Though, for kind of lab usage, some kind of variable AC source is usually really nice, or an inverter-based setup. Key feature being current-limiting and fault-tolerance, if you're testing directly 220/240V driven hardware -- nice to have something besides a regular breaker protecting that. e: vv yes, Variac movax fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 31, 2023 |
# ? Jan 31, 2023 21:46 |
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slurm posted:I just want it at my indoor workbench for testing 220V control components in the heat/AC with my other electronics stuff, it's a "nice to have". Get a variac that goes that high.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 21:53 |
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kid sinister posted:Get a variac that goes that high. That's not a bad idea, that's probably the easy answer and gives me 24VAC as a bonus.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 22:12 |
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Comedy option: phase converter like setup / get a AC/BLDC motor + transformer going. rotary motion is magical
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 22:19 |
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slurm posted:I just want it at my indoor workbench for testing 220V control components in the heat/AC with my other electronics stuff, it's a "nice to have". That's a valid reason to want to install one then, but like others have said variacs are also useful for that and offer better protection for a test bench. The first question for wanting to do anything that isn't the regional standard with power, even if it's permitted by code, is "why" and "can this be accomplished in a way that is not non-standard." Otherwise you might end up like Grover installing receptacles in his ceiling.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 22:52 |
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slurm posted:That's not a bad idea, that's probably the easy answer and gives me 24VAC as a bonus. Variacs are the definition of "nice to have" for a workbench.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 22:53 |
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Spend your time and money on a good variac vs pulling oddball wire. Though I would totally run my computer off it if someone else had installed it in my house because it would amuse me.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 23:02 |
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If you want a recommendation for a variac, you should probably ask in the electronics thread here in DIY. They would probably know better than electricians.
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# ? Jan 31, 2023 23:43 |
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kid sinister posted:If you want a recommendation for a variac, you should probably ask in the electronics thread here in DIY. They would probably know better than electricians. What's the problem just use PWM: https://i.imgur.com/wYY2Wbj.mp4
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# ? Feb 1, 2023 00:05 |
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# ? May 13, 2024 10:07 |
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H110Hawk posted:What's the problem just use PWM: They don't make a 2x4 long enough to turn that off safely.
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# ? Feb 1, 2023 00:15 |