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actionjackson posted:??????
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Feb 1, 2023 19:26
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H110Hawk posted:Once it's in the bags it's no more dangerous than normal construction debris. We pile it up in special section of landfills and call it a day more or less. Apparently you have to wet it down. If it's non-friable (Friable means "can be broken down to a powder with your bare hands") it's not really all that dangerous. A couple years ago, I had a small asbestos job that the asbestos guy literally told me was small enough to do myself. His disposal advice was basically "local regs let you throw out like a pound at a time in the regular trash. Get a bunch of gallon ziploc bags, tape them shut, throw one away a week until you run out of bags."
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Feb 1, 2023 20:29
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Yeah, you're supposed to label it in certain ways and such but overall it's not super dangerous unless powdered.
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Feb 1, 2023 20:43
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I know that code varies by location, but is there any obvious reason I can't remove an outlet from its existing circut (splicing the wires together behind it), and add a new circuit to the same outlet box? Currently my microwave shares a circuit with and is causing trips now that i'm spending more time in my office, and I'd like to move it to its own 20A circuit by running 12ga romex. ugly, but  Essentially, i want to run a dedicated circuit for this appliance and junction the existing stuff to avoid installing a new box. Deviant fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Feb 1, 2023 |
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Feb 1, 2023 22:05
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Deviant posted:I know that code varies by location, but is there any obvious reason I can't remove an outlet from its existing circut (splicing the wires together behind it), and add a new circuit to the same outlet box? I don't see an issue except possibly with box fill. How big is the outlet box and what gauge wiring are you using? If it's all 14 gauge, with 6 conductors and 3 grounds, plus internal clamps and an outlet, you'll need a 20 cu. In. outlet box to be code. Depending on the box it may not have internal clamps so you could exclude that from your calculations possibly too. E: just saw you said 12 gauge for the new microwave wire, so you'll need a few more cu. In.
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Feb 1, 2023 22:17
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SpartanIvy posted:I don't see an issue except possibly with box fill. How big is the outlet box and what gauge wiring are you using? It's an existing 1 gang receptacle box (hood mounted microwave power). The microwave itself is listed 1800W @ 120v, so I could probably get away with a 15A circuit (or get a more efficient one on top of it, bc it's kinda old), i just thought i'd do 12/2 and 20A for headroom. The intent is that the microwave will be the only device on the circuit. A quick bit of work with a sawzall would probably make room for a 2 gang box though.
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Feb 1, 2023 22:23
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Deviant posted:It's an existing 1 gang receptacle box (hood mounted microwave power). Not all 1-gang receptacles are made the same. If it's metal it's definitely not 20 cu. In. or bigger, but if it's plastic it could be. It should be stamped onto the back of the inside of the box. I'd say if only the microwave is on it you could probably fudge the numbers a little because you're only ever going to have it on for a few minutes at a time, so heat build up isnt too big of an issue, which is what box fill limits are trying to protect you from.
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Feb 1, 2023 22:34
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I suspected i was just gonna fudge it a tad, but I wanted to make an attempt to do it right. The circuit that's becoming a junction is fairly loaded, hence having to move the microwave off of it, though.
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Feb 1, 2023 22:35
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Deviant posted:I suspected i was just gonna fudge it a tad, but I wanted to make an attempt to do it right. Microwaves are usually 1000+ watt devices by themselves so it doesn't take much to trip them on a 14 gauge circuit.
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Feb 1, 2023 22:46
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SpartanIvy posted:Microwaves are usually 1000+ watt devices by themselves so it doesn't take much to trip them on a 14 gauge circuit. What's my best approach here, then? I really don't want to hacksaw out the new work box to make room for a 2 gang if i don't absolutely have to. Additionally, when junctioning the two existing circuits, what do I do with the ground? As it stands my understanding is that the box would have 2 hot, 2 neutral, and 1 ground to junction together. Deviant fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Feb 1, 2023 |
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Feb 1, 2023 22:48
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Deviant posted:It's an existing 1 gang receptacle box (hood mounted microwave power). Microwaves aren't really "more efficient" things outside of waveform optimization to box size. Most of them are sized to be exactly a 15A or 20A circuit, otherwise you just need to buy a lower powered one. Yours at 1800W is 100% of a 15A and really should be on a 20A. Is the plug |- or | | ? (is one prong turned sideways?) If you can't, buy a 1000W or similar smaller microwave to help you stay under the breaker limits.
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Feb 1, 2023 23:13
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H110Hawk posted:Microwaves aren't really "more efficient" things outside of waveform optimization to box size. Most of them are sized to be exactly a 15A or 20A circuit, otherwise you just need to buy a lower powered one. Yours at 1800W is 100% of a 15A and really should be on a 20A. Is the plug |- or | | ? (is one prong turned sideways?) it is || with two standard prongs, and right now is on a 15A circuit along with a bedroom, presumably because the previous owner was lazy. It definitely looks like it was added late during a kitchen remodel and not done properly, ie just added to the nearest circuit. I don't mind running a proper 20A 12/2 circuit to it, but I have the existing 15A circuit handling the bedroom to contend with is all, hence junctioning. Deviant fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Feb 1, 2023 |
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Feb 1, 2023 23:17
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Sorry I wasn't clear earlier but putting the microwave on its own circuit, either 20 or 15 amp, is absolutely the right move. I meant that having the microwave with anything else on the circuit with it makes it easy to trip. If you're doing it from scratch there is no reason not to do 12/2 over 14/2 as the cost difference is minimal. For the wiring, the circuits and wires should be kept separate. So nut together the 2 hot 14 gauge wires, nut together the 2 neutral 14 gauge wires, and nut together the 2 14 gauge ground wires, and shove it all to the back of the box. The new 12 gauge wiring should feed just the microwave outlet.
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Feb 2, 2023 00:50
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SpartanIvy posted:Sorry I wasn't clear earlier but putting the microwave on its own circuit, either 20 or 15 amp, is absolutely the right move. I meant that having the microwave with anything else on the circuit with it makes it easy to trip. I haven't opened the box yet, what would I do in the event there's only one ground? I think one or two of my other outlets have been like that. Though upon a re-read i may be confused. Otherwise this all seems cromulent, aside from physically getting the 12/2 up through the box into the attic, across the joists, and down to the panel. Deviant fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Feb 2, 2023 |
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Feb 2, 2023 00:53
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Deviant posted:I haven't opened the box yet, what would I do in the event there's only one ground? I think one or two of my other outlets have been like that. Though upon a re-read i may be confused. How old is your house? Does it have old un-grounded wiring still? If it does, the one ground you have could be from new wiring being added by a PO, but if that ground wire doesn't make it back to the panel to actually get grounded then it's pointless currently.
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Feb 2, 2023 01:02
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SpartanIvy posted:How old is your house? Does it have old un-grounded wiring still? If it does, the one ground you have could be from new wiring being added by a PO, but if that ground wire doesn't make it back to the panel to actually get grounded then it's pointless currently. I believe all the wiring is grounded and unless this particular run was done very badly i'm probably confused and there should be 2 ground wires up there to keep the entire circuit grounded. I'll check a further outlet when i can get my tester out tomorrow.
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Feb 2, 2023 01:04
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Deviant posted:I believe all the wiring is grounded and unless this particular run was done very badly i'm probably confused and there should be 2 ground wires up there to keep the entire circuit grounded. I'll check a further outlet when i can get my tester out tomorrow. If you don't have one already, get an outlet tester and plug it in. It'll tell you if the outlet is actually grounded or not.
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Feb 2, 2023 01:06
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SpartanIvy posted:If you don't have one already, get an outlet tester and plug it in. It'll tell you if the outlet is actually grounded or not. I mentioned my tester in the very post you quoted, lol. I'm sure it's fine, the grounds have been cromulent in the rest of the house so i have no reason to expect differently, but i'll check.
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Feb 2, 2023 01:09
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Deviant posted:I mentioned my tester in the very post you quoted, lol.  That's what I get for interrupting my posting with work conversations.FWIW I was in a similar predicament where my Microwave was hooked up to the old range hood outlet, which was also shared with the clothes washer, countertop outlets, and fridge. All on a 15 amp fuse. So using my kitchen was a ton of fun until I rewired it all. I also stuck my microwave on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. I still sometimes have panic attacks when the fridge kicks on while I have the microwave going.
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Feb 2, 2023 01:24
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I have a "Farberware Professional FCD06ABBWHA Compact Portable Countertop Dishwasher" and it is no longer heating up the water. I'm guessing either the heating element or something that controls the heating element went south. Probably the heating element. I'm having a hell of a time trying to find a parts manual for this thing to figure out what heating element I need to replace it. If I can't figure it out, my next course of action is to open it up and search for a heating element that looks similar to the one that is in there. If anybody can find the part number and/or a link to a reputable website to order it from, it would be very much appreciated. Also, I'm still working on that steam bender so I can install the trim in my bay window. It is almost done and the video mostly recorded and edited. I had some outdoor projects that needed to be finished before Minnesota winter that took precedence, then I got my left wrist all torn up courtesy of a German shepherd/pit bull mix I was fostering, and now poo poo like this dishwasher. Excuses, excuses....
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Feb 2, 2023 02:14
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SkunkDuster posted:
I was just wondering about this a couple of days ago! I'm so excited.
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Feb 2, 2023 02:29
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Deviant posted:I know that code varies by location, but is there any obvious reason I can't remove an outlet from its existing circut (splicing the wires together behind it), and add a new circuit to the same outlet box? Here's some lateral perspective for you. If someone is capable of running a new circuit, they should be capable of re feeding the other boxes rather than have a box share two circuits with a splice. And while you're at it (the most dreaded phrase in home renovation), you can bring the whole thing up to code with fresh wire and put them on 20a circuits. The current code requirement is two circuits for countertop use.
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Feb 2, 2023 02:58
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StormDrain posted:Here's some lateral perspective for you. Sounds like work, though i could pull wire using the existing wire, yes. I'll think about it. I could do it right or I could make it the next guy's problem.
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Feb 2, 2023 03:24
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DaveSauce posted:That's some... half-assed work on the cabinet doors. Hinges are not aligned anywhere, many of the doors aren't level. Painting them the same color would probably make that less noticeable... did they literally not install a cabinet frame, instead just cutting openings in drywall and putting doors over them? That gray in between the doors is definitely the wall right?
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Feb 2, 2023 03:40
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Eason the Fifth posted:Update on the tree saga: Standard boilerplate. ... Eason the Fifth posted:So, a handful questions about this if any knowledgeable folks have answers: Yes. Don't show them the insurance company's estimate until you see theirs to avoid incredible coincidences in the cost of repairs. Eason the Fifth posted:2) There is roof/fascia/soffit damage, siding damage, and the bulkhead down into my crawlspace needs replaced. If the repairs involve two different contractors (e.g., one for the roof and the other for the siding), I'd imagine I just run that by my adjustor, right? A licensed general contractor can typically handle all of that. However, if you go the route of multiple bids, just be sure that the total of all these bids does not exceed the replacement cost estimate amount (the total they wrote, including the deductible). It can get a bit messy if, say, your insurer's estimate for framing is more than your bid, but the amount paid to you for drywall & paint is less that that contractor is bidding. What's most important, though, is the final dollar figure of your estimate(s) should be less than or equal to the RCV the carrier is paying. I do not give a poo poo if the entire Moscow Circus is restoring your property, so long as you stay within the RCV. Which leads to: Accepting your carrier's check for their estimate is NOT a release. You're paying for coverage & indemnification. There's a high likelihood of hidden damage and weird cost overruns. Your adjuster will anticipate these things, and will be there to issue agreed supplements. SO The most important thing is that you make your adjuster aware of issues that will impact the cost of the repairs immediately, before they are done. Next to public adjusters, my absolute biggest headache is explaining to my insureds why they can't just get the work done for whatever and send me the bill. No. We have to be made aware of the damage, the hidden damage, the whatever-we-missed damage, and have an opportunity to investigate it before any commitment is made to pay for it. I have denied paid supplements; I have denied entire claims for this. Eason the Fifth posted:3) Will I get a bill for the deductible, or does that come out of the insurance payment? AS noted, it's deducted from the first settlement check. Eason the Fifth posted:4) I don't quite follow the idea of "recoverable depreciation" -- is that basically what the repairs add to the value of the house? Your house has 30-YO paneling, 8-YO carpeting, and 5-YO paint. When the work is all done, you'll be at Year Zero. We depreciate based on age and condition of the affected areas at the time of the loss. You'll get that depreciated amount back after you demonstrate that all of the repairs were completed AND that you spent all of the funds to do it...so it's recoverable. If you opt to go to Bali instead - which you can do if you want - then no depreciation for you! Back in the day, it was all ACV. There was no 'replacement value' coverage for a structure or contents (unless the contents item - your diamond tiara - was separately insured). PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Feb 2, 2023 |
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Feb 2, 2023 06:07
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Awesome. Thanks for all the great advice, everyone. 
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Feb 2, 2023 15:50
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I want to hang a gate here. I'm thinking of doing a horizontal cedar fence, but I'm pretty flexible on the post style. This is complicated by the fact that the blockwork sticks out 2.5" and there's already a concrete walkway. I figure I have 3 options. 1. (Easiest) Bolt a 2x4, 4x4, or 5x5 to my house. If I do a 2x4 it would start where the brick starts and go up to like 60". My house is solid brick so this should be really secure. I could do the same with a 4x4, or I could cope the 4x4 so that it could fit over the blockwork, tho I think having only 1" of the 4x4 remaining over the blockwork section would probably look weird. If I did a 5x5 the coping would probably look better. I've read that ideally you shouldn't attach your fence to your house but it also seems like something lots of people do, especially with brick construction. 2. Bolt a fence post with a base to the concrete. Something like this - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Slipfen...PP376/316270768. I think it would have to be installed like 6"+ inches away from the house to avoid cracking the concrete, which means I would have to trim out the small section between the house and the post. On the plus side the concrete walkway is 5'2" so I have plenty of room to work with. 3. (Hardest) Use a core drill and dig a post hole near the house. This is probably the best option in terms of strength but it's also the most difficult and expensive. And I would still have a small gap between the house and the post that I would need to trim out. Hashtag Banterzone fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Feb 2, 2023 |
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Feb 2, 2023 17:13
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Hi guys. I'm working on remodeling my hallway, and I've got some cracks that are persistent and really causing me a headache. I tried covering them with joint compound in early '22 but it never really worked. They're still visible today, and while they aren't getting worse, just slapping joint compound over them wasn't the solution. I'd like to really fix them, because I'm ready to paint and put up some wainscotting/wallpaper, and I don't want these cracks messing it all up.     Yesterday I went in with a paint scraper and opened them all up. My original intent was to use a stretch acrylic sealant:  Once I opened them up they seemed maybe a little too big for this stuff, so I wanted to do some more research and solicit opinions before I move forward. I watched some videos on youtube and most are filling the cracks with a type of joint compound and maybe using mesh tape. My concern with the mesh tape is that none of the cracks are wide enough for the tape to sit below the surface of the wall, so anywhere I'd put the tape it would end up a raised surface. If the stretchy acrylic caulk isn't the right tool for the job, I have these two products on hand:   My questions: is the sealant caulk a good tool for this? If not, are the two bags of plaster I have on hand good materials for this? If not, what should I use? Should I try to use tape? Thanks guys! I really appreciate all the help I've gotten here over the last several years as a new homeowner.
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Feb 3, 2023 18:28
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Can you not put a post in the ground where you're standing in the photo?
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Feb 3, 2023 18:30
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Hi guys. I'm working on remodeling my hallway, and I've got some cracks that are persistent and really causing me a headache. I tried covering them with joint compound in early '22 but it never really worked. They're still visible today, and while they aren't getting worse, just slapping joint compound over them wasn't the solution. I'd like to really fix them, because I'm ready to paint and put up some wainscotting/wallpaper, and I don't want these cracks messing it all up. Check out the Vancouver Carpenter on Youtube. He has some great tips for wall repair that I think you'd find helpful. I had a big crack on my ceiling that I spent weeks filling and sanding and filling and sanding to get just right. I didn't use mesh tape or paper tape to cover it like I should have. 6 months after I finished it, the crack came back.
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Feb 3, 2023 19:06
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I watched some videos on youtube and most are filling the cracks with a type of joint compound and maybe using mesh tape. My concern with the mesh tape is that none of the cracks are wide enough for the tape to sit below the surface of the wall, so anywhere I'd put the tape it would end up a raised surface You mentioned wainscotting - depending on what style you're talking about (some people use wainscotting and beadboard interchangeably) you may be able to just cover the cracks and move on with life.
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Feb 3, 2023 19:42
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Hi guys. I'm working on remodeling my hallway, and I've got some cracks that are persistent and really causing me a headache. I tried covering them with joint compound in early '22 but it never really worked. They're still visible today, and while they aren't getting worse, just slapping joint compound over them wasn't the solution. I'd like to really fix them, because I'm ready to paint and put up some wainscotting/wallpaper, and I don't want these cracks messing it all up. I can't say for sure that this is the cause or would help, but they might be caused by the drywall not being stuck to the studs/joists securely. If it wasn't glued and there aren't enough screws in it and your structure moves a bit then that can cause cracking. You could consider cutting out the entire affected area and installing new drywall with liquid nails and screws every 8 inches. That would stick it for and it won't be more mudding work than just doing the cracks themselves. It will mean buying drywall and cutting it out etc. Edit: Ok I looked at the full size pics- if that's plaster instead of drywall then my tip doesn't really apply. I've repaired spalling plaster with joint compound before, but I think for those cracks I'd fill in the base with actual plaster of paris then use joint compound for just the top layer that I wanted to sand and blend into the plaster. As I understand it plaster is a denser, more durable material than what joint compound/drywall mud dries into. So I think you'd want to start filling it in with the tough stuff then just finish with the lightweight material. Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 19:49
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If it's plaster, the keys in the lathe may have started to crack and fail (particularly in the ceiling) so a fix that lasts a reasonable length of time will probably involve securing the plaster back to the lathe. I've never done it myself, but I've seen a few ways to do it that include adhesives or drywall screws. You could potentially also clear out all the broken plaster and re-plaster but that's the kind of thing that's a real skill and even real-deal plaster psychos will often just re-do ceilings in drywall even when they'll replaster walls because replastering a ceiling is quite tough (I'm told). Here's This Old House fixing a plaster&lathe ceiling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5mdg4gH1Ko
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Feb 3, 2023 21:04
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Sirotan posted:Check out the Vancouver Carpenter on Youtube. He has some great tips for wall repair that I think you'd find helpful.
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Feb 4, 2023 01:50
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Sirotan posted:Check out the Vancouver Carpenter on Youtube. He has some great tips for wall repair that I think you'd find helpful. Yeah my house is mostly plaster still, from 1930. In the thirty years we've been here I have four cracks in various rooms that I have patched at lest four times each. It's why blown popcorn, paneling & drop ceilings were so popular in the 60s and 70s. Those are perennials. I would go over the ceiling.with 3/8" sheetrock. It's what the PO (who'd lived in the house since 1938) did in the 80s: our ceilings are all sheetrock over the plaster.
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Feb 4, 2023 01:53
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The structural engineer who inspected my horrible back room suggested shiplap to cover the cracks since they're mainly cosmetic.
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Feb 4, 2023 06:07
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HelloIAmYourHeart posted:The structural engineer who inspected my horrible back room suggested shiplap to cover the cracks since they're mainly cosmetic. Where'd they get their engineering degree? HGTVU?
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Feb 4, 2023 14:00
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Can you not put a post in the ground where you're standing in the photo? I could but if I did I'd still have to put something along the house for the latch, and it's nicer when the gate is hinged on the house side in my experience
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Feb 4, 2023 14:53
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Thanks for all the feedback guys, it's been great to read. A couple things: I'm going to be installing this picture frame stuff on the wall:  It's not a full bead board/wainscotting that you'd see elsewhere, so it won't do much to cover up the cracks. We may put up wallpaper in a few spots, which would cover some of the cracks, but not all of them. I don't think any of the keys are fully broken. There's several cracks in the ceiling, but it's not flexing away from the lath anywhere. I watched the This Old House video about fixing the ceiling. I've seen that technique before, and I"m desperately hoping I don't have to do it in the future, heh. I want to watch some of the Vancouver Carpenter guy to see what he has to say. Perhaps he'll have some helpful ideas. I haven't had time yet with family in town. My plan at the moment is to try that flexible acrylic stuff in a single crack to see how it dries and looks. If it works, I might give it a shot. If not, I'm inclined towards using my base coat plaster to try and fill all the cracks, then doing a skim coat over the whole hallway. Maybe with the flex tape? I guess the walls are already have variations in the topography, so slightly bumps where the tape is wouldn't be out of place. Honestly I don't even mind if the ceiling cracks reappear (lightly); I just want to avoid it on the walls, since you're looking at them more frequently. Hashtag Banterzone posted:I could but if I did I'd still have to put something along the house for the latch, and it's nicer when the gate is hinged on the house side in my experience The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 22:19
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Tile adhesive down, tile starts today: 
Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Feb 7, 2023 |
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Feb 7, 2023 16:00
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