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mp5 posted:What country are you in? USA You definitely should buy your CPU, motherboard, and memory from Micro Center. They're running a promo where you get 16GB of DDR5-5600 for free with a 7600X, or 32GB of DDR5-6000 with a 7700X or better. And you get $20 off when buying a motherboard too. I think Gamers Nexus' 4070 Ti review was honestly a little misleading. When it comes to value for money, it's fine. It's not a good price for a 70-class graphics card, nor is it an exciting boost to value like you often got with previous generations, but at the end of the day it's a little better than a 3080 at MSRP for a little more money. It's definitely a better buy than a 6950 XT for $800. That is an absolutely insane price to pay for fans, and checking Amazon, that's partially because PCPartPicker is linking to a weird third-party listing. You can get the same 3-pack for $95 here. Even that is a lot of money to pay for fans, though. If you want to cut costs, the best way to do so would be to get a simpler case and cooler. Grab a Lian Li Lancool 216 for around $100, a Thermalright Peerless Assassin for $35, and you shouldn't need any extra fans. 1000W is also very much overkill for this build. You can easily get away with 850W. Even 750W would be possible if you want to pinch pennies, though I'd stick with 850.
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Feb 3, 2023 06:54
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:You definitely should buy your CPU, motherboard, and memory from Micro Center. They're running a promo where you get 16GB of DDR5-5600 for free with a 7600X, or 32GB of DDR5-6000 with a 7700X or better. And you get $20 off when buying a motherboard too. I don't see a combo with the same motherboard and a 7600X, but I do see some with a 7700X and the exact RAM I already listed. There's a bundle for 675 with those parts and this motherboard, but I'm not sure what the difference is between this board and the one in my original list: https://www.microcenter.com/product/651909/asus-x670e-plus-tuf-gaming-wifi-atx-motherboard And based on what you're saying the 70-class cards are basically still the sweet spot for 1440p @ 144Hz, so I just need to suck it up there Regarding the case, I know I didn't say this before and I also know it's going to sound silly but a non-trivial reason I went with that case is my cat likes to jump on top of my current tower and hit my power button. So I was hoping to avoid buttons on top of the tower, even on an incline. The Lancool 216 does look really good, though. I did see that listing on Amazon for the fans, too. Definitely lowering the power supply to an 850. mp5 fucked around with this message at 08:08 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 07:48
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You can relocate the power button front I/O panel from the top to the side on the 216, actually. If you want to stick with the O11 anyway, then you have to be really careful about graphics card clearances. The standard O11 (the one you selected) isn't compatible with some larger graphics cards due to how narrow the main chamber is, particularly with the way the new power adapter for Nvidia's 40-series is made. It's hard to tell how compatible the 4070 Ti cards are as Lian Li only keeps a compatibility list for the 4090, but several of the manufacturers have designed 4070 Ti coolers that are just as tall as their 4090 coolers. Getting the XL or Evo model would help, but they're more expensive. You could also get around this problem by using a right-angle 12VHPWR adapter. Cablemod makes one, but it's still not available yet. modDIY has one in stock, but I don't know how reliable they are, and it comes in only in one orientation that might not work for all GPUs. The 216 wouldn't have any such problems. The minimum fan/AIO arrangement I'd go for with the O11 would be the AIO on the top as exhaust and fans on the bottom as intake. The side fan location has a pretty restrictive vent/filter arrangement that makes it not optimal for radiator placement (which will only generate more impedance). But with 360mm, maybe it's fine anyway. I've certainly seen a lot of people put the AIO on the side and they don't seem to complain. You can go with All The Fans, just 9x fans, but it's probably not necessary. This would be bottom and side intake and top exhaust. The main difference between the boards you linked (and really, any AM5 board) is just in the I/O offered. The X670 chipset is functionally identical to B650 except it has more I/O. So, in my opinion, get the cheapest board that has the I/O you want and don't bother with any of the super overpriced ones (that tuf gaming board seems fine) edit: The top vents have the same level of restriction, but you can remove the filter when doing exhaust. Though maybe this wouldn't be smart with a cat sitting on it? wouldn't want them to insert a claw or get their fur caught by a fan. The O11 is a really nice looking case, but it's honestly pretty dated and restrictive in the specifics of its design. The O11 Evo solves these problems by using more modern mesh and is only a little more expensive. edit 2: vvvv for sure, I tend to worry too much about optimal performance even if "sub-optimal" is still more than good enough, as is likely the case here. At $15 more I still like the Evo over the original O11, but you're right in that it would be fine here, provided he can get a new GPU that fits just fine. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 08:31
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I have that exact case and AIO. I have mine side mounted. It is perfectly fine side mounted. I have no problems cooling my 12700k with it. My gaming habits don't really require much for cooling but I've been video editing with it and I don't breach You can fit 5 fans in the case with a side mounted rad. The tubes from the freezer II will block one of the front fans. Do not bother trying to put one on the back. it is pointless and there's no real mounting points back there anyhow. You can do fine with just 4 fans but since the p12 5 pack is a steal, might as well just get that. The case is top exhaust (never try to do bottom exhaust) so if your cat likes to sleep on your computer might want to consider that. e: I cannot type. Also 5 as far as just case fans 8 if you include the ones on the freezer II. You'd have no problem with fitting 6 case fans with the freezer II top mounted but it's probably overkill. e2: Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:edit 2: vvvv for sure, I tend to worry too much about optimal performance even if "sub-optimal" is still more than good enough, as is likely the case here. At $15 more I still like the Evo over the original O11, but you're right in that it would be fine here, provided he can get a new GPU that fits just fine. Edit wars. Ya they are phasing the D model out it was a lot cheaper a year or so ago. I got mine for 125 I want to say. What's being sold is probably the remaining stock. I'd agree to just go with the Evo now. Box wine fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 08:56
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Is it fine to daisy chain case fans? I just got my Fractal Pop Air and the power cable of the rear fan is too short to reach any of the case fan connectors on the motherboard so I connected it to the two front fans and plugged them all into a single header. I'm wondering if there's possibly a significant advantage regarding noise levels or cooling performance by controlling the front and rear fans separately. It feels like the rear fan should have its own connector but I don't know how it works out in practice.
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Feb 3, 2023 10:29
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fart_man_69 posted:Is it fine to daisy chain case fans? I just got my Fractal Pop Air and the power cable of the rear fan is too short to reach any of the case fan connectors on the motherboard so I connected it to the two front fans and plugged them all into a single header. I'm wondering if there's possibly a significant advantage regarding noise levels or cooling performance by controlling the front and rear fans separately. It feels like the rear fan should have its own connector but I don't know how it works out in practice. Yes, the build guide for the Pop says specifically to daisy chain all the fans together and connect them to a single motherboard header. Most decent fans these days are designed to be daisy chained like this because you don't really need to run individual case fans at different speeds like you might with a CPU fan. The default fans also aren't PWM fans so your control over them is limited anyway.
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Feb 3, 2023 10:35
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njsykora posted:Yes, the build guide for the Pop says specifically to daisy chain all the fans together and connect them to a single motherboard header. Most decent fans these days are designed to be daisy chained like this because you don't really need to run individual case fans at different speeds like you might with a CPU fan. The default fans also aren't PWM fans so your control over them is limited anyway. Ah, thanks. Obviously I did not read the manual  I was wondering why the motherboard connectors had four pins instead of three. I haven't built a PC in a decade and for some reason just assumed that every fan nowadays is a PWM fan. Are DC case fans the norm?
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Feb 3, 2023 11:34
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Most case fans are PWM these days but Fractal for whatever reason sticks with DC fans in most of their cases. They can still be controlled with voltage, so it's not the end of the world. Whether you daisy chain them all together or not is really up to you. I tend to group my fans together based on where they are and their orientation. Front intake on one header, rear exhaust on another, if the case has extra intake or exhaust somewhere then they may get grouped into a different header. Most headers can take one or two amps, which is a lot of fans. The fans should list their power consumption on their label, and your motherboard's manual should list what each header is rated for.
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Feb 3, 2023 12:04
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I personally stuff all the fans in all the slots (unless it really doesn't make sense to do that due to physical airflow concerns, but usually it's fine). Case fans are cheap if you don't go Noctua - and even then, they're a lot cheaper than most other PC components - and with PWM ones you can actually make them spin slower and enjoy a quieter PC with lower temps (compared to using less fans than "as many as possible") when you're not running them at full tilt, while still being sure that if push come to shove, running them at 100% will keep your stuff cool. I'd just be mindful to either have at least 1 more intake than exhaust which can be kinda hard when you have different sized fans, or make sure to set fan curves in your BIOS in such a way that some of the exhausts run a bit slower than the intakes, assuming they're all the same model. I generally like a front intake, back+top exhaust setup and in my case I have 3x 120mm intake fans pushing air in from the front, 1x 120mm exhaust fan in the back, and 2x 140mm exhaust in the top which I'm running at about 60-70% the speed of the 120mm ones through the fan curve to make extra sure I have positive pressure (I'd normally only use one top exhaust but I had those 2x 140mm already and they're RGB so why not, more pretty lights is nice for me). I'd only go with bottom intake fans if I needed to specifically cool the GPU but I think modern GPUs are pretty good at not being extra-hot (cables not fully pushed in notwithstanding), and to be honest the side fans on the hdd cage on that specific case look kinda useless unless you have a RAID array of spinning drives to cool but who has that on a regular home PC in tyool 2023 ? TorakFade fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 12:25
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:If you want to cut costs, the best way to do so would be to get a simpler case and cooler. Grab a Lian Li Lancool 216 for around $100, a Thermalright Peerless Assassin for $35, and you shouldn't need any extra fans. As someone who bought a Lancool 216 and Peerless Assassin just a few weeks ago I can concur that everything runs perfectly cool with just the included case and tower fans.
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Feb 3, 2023 12:29
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I built this maybe 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's finally time to bump the RAM up to 32GB. I'm assuming I'm going to have to stick with DDR4 due to the MB, but does it make sense to swap out all the RAM for 3600 speed or just buy another couple sticks and keep the 3000s in there with the new ones? Anything else I need to watch out for? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-8600 3.1 GHz 6-Core Processor ($248.88 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 35.14 CFM CPU Cooler ($42.24 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory ($54.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($74.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA SC GAMING ACX 2.0 GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB Video Card Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon) Total: $551.08 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-03 09:16 EST-0500
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Feb 3, 2023 15:18
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mp5 posted:Storage: Western Digital WD_BLACK 4 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive ($129.99 @ Amazon) I am not sure what your intended use case for the platter drive is but I think at this point conventional wisdom is that anything you need to access quickly should be on NVMe and therefore you can get by with cheaper and quieter 5400 rpm drives. You can buy a WD Blue 4TB drive for like 70 bucks.
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Feb 3, 2023 15:35
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Joementum posted:I built this maybe 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's finally time to bump the RAM up to 32GB. I'm assuming I'm going to have to stick with DDR4 due to the MB, but does it make sense to swap out all the RAM for 3600 speed or just buy another couple sticks and keep the 3000s in there with the new ones? Anything else I need to watch out for? Are you struggling to use your system like you want specifically because of a shortage of RAM, or is it more to do with your CPU and GPU? Unless you're using programs or doing work that specifically requires a lot of RAM, I seriously doubt you'd see much tangible benefit to buying anther 16gb or moving up to 32gb 3600. I'd say you're close to needing a full rebuild and any money you spend on more ddr4 now will wasted as using ddr5 in a new build makes sense at most budgets now.
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Feb 3, 2023 16:14
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Joementum posted:I built this maybe 4-5 years ago and I'm thinking it's finally time to bump the RAM up to 32GB. I'm assuming I'm going to have to stick with DDR4 due to the MB, but does it make sense to swap out all the RAM for 3600 speed or just buy another couple sticks and keep the 3000s in there with the new ones? Anything else I need to watch out for? If you play newer computer games you should not be spending a dime on your current setup. All of it should go into a jar labeled "good gpu."
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Feb 3, 2023 17:06
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Butterfly Valley posted:Are you struggling to use your system like you want specifically because of a shortage of RAM, or is it more to do with your CPU and GPU? Unless you're using programs or doing work that specifically requires a lot of RAM, I seriously doubt you'd see much tangible benefit to buying anther 16gb or moving up to 32gb 3600. I'd say you're close to needing a full rebuild and any money you spend on more ddr4 now will wasted as using ddr5 in a new build makes sense at most budgets now. I mostly play paradox mapgames and WoW and have been getting choked on RAM with those, but I take the point that sinking more cash into this may be throwing money away. Though a couple more sticks are like $50. I just don't want to buy them and run into weird incompatibilities.
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Feb 3, 2023 17:22
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Hey everyone... I would love some advice on the last two pieces of hardware for my PC build. I am building an i5 Raptor Lake build for analytics use, general web browsing, and as a media Plex server. I will be running Linux and using integrated graphics, and will not be gaming. Please note that I almost bought an i3-12100, but due to a great deal, I was able to obtain an i5-13600K CPU for very cheap. So the CPU quality is incidental, and I was not initially planning on getting a fast board or fast memory to pair with it. The parts I already have are: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor (Purchased For a great deal) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S redux 70.75 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $46.98) Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $89.99) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN570 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $121.99) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Mini MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $119.00) Power Supply: EVGA 500 BA 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $64.99) Case Fan: Noctua S12B redux-1200 PWM 59.1 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $14.95) Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PST CO 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.50) Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PST CO 72.8 CFM 140 mm Fan (Purchased For $13.50) Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-03 11:42 EST-0500 Now I am choosing between these two sets: DDR 5 Option with Asus Board: Motherboard: Asus Pro B760M-CT-CSM Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory ($119.99 @ Amazon) DDR 4 Option with Gigabyte Board: Motherboard: Gigabyte B760M DS3H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($77.98 @ Amazon) The second option with DDR4 was what I was initially wanting since the PC is primarily for general use and media serving. But for $60, I can get DDR5 and possibly a nicer board. However:
Any advice on which one I should go for? I have no problem spending the extra $60, but wouldn't want to do it if I am not gaining anything. Thanks!
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Feb 3, 2023 17:52
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I am not sure what your intended use case for the platter drive is but I think at this point conventional wisdom is that anything you need to access quickly should be on NVMe and therefore you can get by with cheaper and quieter 5400 rpm drives. You can buy a WD Blue 4TB drive for like 70 bucks. It's just media storage and any retro games that don't benefit from the SSDs that I've already purchased.
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Feb 3, 2023 18:22
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80k posted:Hey everyone... I would love some advice on the last two pieces of hardware for my PC build. I am building an i5 Raptor Lake build for analytics use, general web browsing, and as a media Plex server. I will be running Linux and using integrated graphics, and will not be gaming. If your analytics use needs memory bandwidth, then it's probably worth it. Otherwise though, DDR5 4800 vs DDR4 3200 won't be noticeable.
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Feb 3, 2023 18:45
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Inept posted:If your analytics use needs memory bandwidth, then it's probably worth it. Otherwise though, DDR5 4800 vs DDR4 3200 won't be noticeable. Hmmm, good point. I do run large datasets, but I've been getting by on a Skylake rig up until now and been fine. I'm leaning towards sticking with DDR4, but knowing that I could possibly appreciate the DDR5 with some projects makes me think $60 isn't that much more to spend. Thanks! EDIT: Just placed the order for the Gigabyte and DDR4 memory. Feels good to finally have everything ordered! 80k fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Feb 3, 2023 |
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Feb 3, 2023 19:56
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Hi thread, it's been a while. Back in 2020 I put together my first true gaming PC based around Zen3 and an RTX 3070 Fast forward to a few months ago, when I upgraded my main monitor from 1440p to 4K. Much like the snowflake that starts an avalanche, I have now completely upgraded my rig after scoring a 4090. Was this necessary? No, most assuredly not. The 3070 was doing quite alright at 4K, but I wanted to upgrade so I did. Moving to the bigger GPU necessitated me upgrading my PSU and case as well. The Meshify C was in no way capable of holding this ridiculous beast of a video card, so I have upgraded to the Torrent, and got a touch of the RGB fever so now I'm in full unicorn vomit territory. And I have a buddy locally who will be taking my old case, PSU, and GPU; he's already got my old 1440p monitor that I did the original build around so I already know they will work great together. Don't talk to me or my son etc etc    Cablemod cables are on order, I don't really like how this looks currently with the squid adaptor, but it's functional   Contractually obligated benchmark screenshot (Cyberpunk 2077 at RT Ultra preset with frame generation enabled) 
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Feb 3, 2023 21:10
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I realize this isn't a tech support thread but I want to ask here, since based on my previous post I'm in the market to build a new PC. I was cleaning out my PC, as I do about once a quarter using a basic canned air spray, as I always do. Except this time, when I made sure I got most of the dust out, and put the case cover back on, plugged everything back in, flipped the switch to power on the PSU, then press the power button on the front....... ...it attempts to boot for half a second, then powers off, then powers on, then immediately powers off, and does that cycle until I unplug it. I checked all my connections, tried different power outlets, nothing. Did my PSU just fry? If there isn't a simple fix for this, I guess I'm moving up my timetable for building my new gaming PC from "November" to "now". Any decent Microcenter deals happening now? AMD/Intel I'm not picky. I no longer have a computer apparently....
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Feb 3, 2023 23:24
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It could be a million things honestly. You can try clearing the cmos, this will put your bios settings to default but I've seen it solve the problem numerous times. Look in your motherboard's manual for how to do it. If still happening you essentially just have to start pulling out components till you figure out what is causing your problem.
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Feb 3, 2023 23:51
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OK so can someone sanity check this for me before I get really mad ?  Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming Z690-Plus WiFi D4 LGA 1700 https://www.newegg.com/asus-tuf-gaming-z690-plus-wifi-d4/p/N82E16813119506?Item=N82E16813119506 Processor: Intel i9 13900k RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-32GVK (2 of these kits) https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232091?Item=N82E16820232091 Built new rig today, 1st boot attempt fans & various lights come on but no video, QLED indicator light on the mobo says RAM issue. OK fine, I take all 4 sticks of RAM out, put one back in, same result. Try 2 just for giggles, nothing. Try another RAM stick from another machine (Crucial Ballistix 8GB), nothing. OK I go checking the Asus & G.Skill websites and for whatever reason the exact kit model number for the above RAM is not on the QVL/supported list. There are a few very close matches but nothing exact. But then I noticed something else. I bought this motherboard on 8/24/2022 and for various reasons I only got around to putting this together today. The Asus website says the minimum BIOS version for 13xxx processors on this mobo is v2004 which was released on (drum roll here) 9/16/2022.  So I'm guessing I'm farked untill I swap in a 12xxx series or older processor in order to get this thing in just enough of a state to update the BIOS to support a 13xxx ?
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Feb 4, 2023 03:10
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MREBoy posted:So I'm guessing I'm farked untill I swap in a 12xxx series or older processor in order to get this thing in just enough of a state to update the BIOS to support a 13xxx ? That looks like a yes.
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Feb 4, 2023 03:22
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Yeah, you really need to be careful when buying processors together with previous-gen motherboards of the same socket. They're typically only compatible after a bios update, which for some motherboards can only be done with an already comaptible cpu in the socket. The best way of avoiding this issue is to buy a motherboard with CPU-less bios flashing (called bios flashback or qflash depending on the brand). The Z690 Tuf Gaming unfortunately does not support this. It will have to be 12XXX specifically in this case, not earlier. You may need to borrow a CPU from a friend, or some shops may update the bios for you (though usually for a fee) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 04:12
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I made my way to MicroCenter today and found a bundle with a 7900X, the exact RAM I wanted, and the first motherboard I had in my initial list for 600, which seemed very solid. The only other reasonable bundle (7700X + same RAM) required a separate motherboard purchase and would have come to about 575 after that. I really appreciate the time you took to help me out, I went with the Lancool 216 and ditched the extra fans, and with a few other changes I ended up saving about $500 across the whole build from where I started. I'm very excited to put this thing together whenever the case arrives. Thank you.
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Feb 4, 2023 07:21
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Are micro atx boards fine for fitting a 4090 onto? Would the monstrosity of a card cover things like nvme slots or be too cramped? Is a normal atx preferred? Because matx are more readily available and priced better usually
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Feb 4, 2023 09:30
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KinkyJohn posted:Are micro atx boards fine for fitting a 4090 onto? Would the monstrosity of a card cover things like nvme slots or be too cramped? Is a normal atx preferred? Because matx are more readily available and priced better usually I don't think there will really be much of a difference between mATX and ATX in terms of header or NVMe accessibility. Due to how motherboards are designed these days, your 4090 will end up covering at least one NVMe slot no matter what, but the headers on the bottom of the board should still be accessible on mATX unless the graphics card slot is positioned unusually low. The main thing you'll miss out on is PCIe expansion slots. There's a chance that every other slot will be covered if you have a GPU thicker than three slots. edit: I'm actually seeing a handful of mATX motherboards that won't have any covered m.2 slots if your gpu is 'just' three slots thick (asrock b650m pg lightning, for example) , but there aren't many 4090s like that. And the Asus Tuf Gaming B650M is actually an example of a board with a lowered GPU slot, meaning that cards thicker than three slots will cover the bottom headers (so you really should not use that board with a 4090) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 09:44
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You can still install M.2 drives on boards where they'll be under the graphics card, it doesn't add any extra clearance issues unless you wanted to stick a pointlessly chunky aftermarket heatsink on. You'd just need to remove the graphics card whenever you needed access to the slot. Header accessibility, yeah that's something to be aware of
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Feb 4, 2023 10:29
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Box wine posted:It could be a million things honestly. You can try clearing the cmos, this will put your bios settings to default but I've seen it solve the problem numerous times. Look in your motherboard's manual for how to do it. If still happening you essentially just have to start pulling out components till you figure out what is causing your problem. I spent a fair amount of time troubleshooting last night. I got it to boot after the CMOS reset as suggested but no display. Removed and re set the graphics, ram, Ssd…. In frustration I began browsing Reddit saw this deal available at Microcenter and, knowing these things sell out fast , jumped on it. https://www.microcenter.com/product...ter-build-combo AMD Ryzen 9 7900X, ASUS B650E-F ROG Strix Gaming WiFi, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 32GB DDR5-6000 Kit, Computer Build Combo For $599 Do these parts / price look good? If so, I’ll build my next system around this. If not, I’ll cancel and just keep looking. Thanks!
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Feb 4, 2023 14:24
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Yeah, I'd say that's an extremely good deal.
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Feb 4, 2023 14:35
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Yeah jesus christ that's only $50 more than the MSRP of the 7900X by itself. Absolute killer deal.
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Feb 4, 2023 14:46
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Wrong thread
Qubee fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 15:07
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Solaris 2.0 posted:
Yesss, thank you, this sold out when I was considering it before, thanks for alerting me they restocked. Now to plan out my new build and replace my 4770 and hd 6770.
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Feb 4, 2023 15:14
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What country are you in? USA Do you live near Microcenter? Yes What are you using the system for? Gaming, creating slides and short videos, data science/ML. Hoping to mess around with CUDA and also try out some rendering. VR if I can get a headset. For gaming, there’s a few titles I couldn’t play the last few years, and coming out the next year that I want to try out. CP 2077, witcher 3 next gen, elden ring, Diablo 4, starfield. What's your budget? I was hoping to stay at 1400 because I have a mix of gift cards and have some stuff I can sell that gets me to that number but I think I can swing up to 2000. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Right now I have a 27 inch 1440 75hz screen, but within a year I plan on getting a 1440 165 hz monitor and using both. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X 4.7 GHz 12-Core Processor ($419.99 @ Microcenter) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($37.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B650E-F GAMING WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($180.00 MC deal) Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($0.00 MC deal) Storage: Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12 GB Video Card ($799.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Enermax Revolution D.F. 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Walmart) Total: $1777.85 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-04 09:30 EST-0500 Super psyched that I found this 7900x deal. My general use machine these days is a M1 MacBook Air and while I love it, it starts to stutter when I’m working on a few things at once. I’m switching jobs and my next job will be professor-adjacent and involve doing some ML/AI, both for creating homework’s and also for research. As for the build, I’m mostly wondering if this case is good, not too gigantic. I’m coming from an NR200 so I assume any case will feel pretty big but I’m sure it will fit under my desk and I won’t notice. Next, about the video card. It hurts my brain to shell out 800 for a video card, so I was looking at either a 6700xt or a 3060ti, but I figure with the AMD card I’m giving up doing ML/GPGPU stuff on my own machine, and I’m worried about driver problems. Then with the 3060ti, I’m just worried about it staying powerful to play games at 1440 for the next few years. I could maybe try to get a used 3080, although I’m not super confident in finding one that hasn’t gone through a car wash. Also, it sounds like there are some features like frame generation that would work on a 4070ti that won’t work on a 3080, is that right?
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Feb 4, 2023 15:54
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Solaris 2.0 posted:I spent a fair amount of time troubleshooting last night. I got it to boot after the CMOS reset as suggested but no display. Removed and re set the graphics, ram, Ssd…. Just echoing everyone else and saying ya that's a good deal. If I was without a computer this morning I'd be driving to microcenter for it.
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Feb 4, 2023 15:55
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JackBandit posted:What country are you in? USA The 4000D is a pretty typical midtower. I'm not sure how to get that across to someone used to SFF, though. Just look up the dimensions and measure your space to see? The case only comes with a single intake and a single exhaust fan though, so you may want to borrow a couple 120mms from the NR200 for extra intake if you can. (though having mismatched fans can make setting a good fan curve a little more awkward) A used 3080 would definitely be a better value than the 4070 Ti, but it's true that the 4070 Ti will come with frame generation and AV1 support, and it will also generally be a little better performing. I honestly can't tell you which would be the better card for you, but if there's no shame in buying used. The risk to doing so is real but overstated in my opinion, and ebay will typically have your back if you end up with a dud. edit: Also I would probably choose a different power supply. Enermax is not a brand i trust. Looking at PCPP, the prices aren't great right now in general. So it's a little more expensive, but I'd probably just go with a Corsair RM850. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 16:09
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JackBandit posted:Yesss, thank you, this sold out when I was considering it before, thanks for alerting me they restocked. Now to plan out my new build and replace my 4770 and hd 6770. Ahh yea always glad to help out another goon! May do a build similar to yours since by budget is about the same. It really sucks to have a PC suddenly die (and right before a LAN I’m supposed to go to) but I feel lucky to be able to nab this deal. Perfect timing. Thanks for the recommendations all! I just got the email saying it’s ready for pickup. I’ll be heading over later this afternoon, may browse around and see what other deals they may have. I feel so lucky to have a Microcenter 30mins from me. Fun fact the location I’m going to used to be a CompUSA back in the day. Solaris 2.0 fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Feb 4, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 16:23
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Solaris 2.0 posted:I realize this isn't a tech support thread but I want to ask here, since based on my previous post I'm in the market to build a new PC. Is it possible knocked a screw loose under the motherboard or something? Did you spin fans really fast? Spinning fans creates electricity, and if they’re plugged into the motherboard… You could buy a new PSU see if that fixes the problem and if it doesn’t, return it.
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Feb 4, 2023 17:27
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What country are you in? United States Do you live near Microcenter? 30 min away. What are you using the system for? Web, office, gaming. What's your budget? Looking for midrange ~$1,500 or less If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I have a 1440p 144Hz monitor, and would like games to run at 60 FPS. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($268.27 @ Microcenter) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($41.31 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard ($182.01 @ Microcenter) Memory: G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($118.70 @ Microcenter) Storage: PNY XLR8 CS3040 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($82.82 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 3070 8 GB Video Card ($559.99 @ Microcenter) Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($169.99 @ Microcenter) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 GT 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Microcenter) Total: $1543.08 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-04 14:24 EST-0500 Bundled the CPU, Motherboard, RAM at Microcenter for $569.98. Does all this seem right? Anything to optimize price/performance? Raimondo fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Feb 10, 2023 |
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Feb 4, 2023 20:33
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