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zer0spunk posted:I looked at the summary in the OP and the only thing with that one is having to hold a bank account with them too. I was assuming that if you live in a high cost of living area and are moving into a higher one, that your emergency fund (even a one-month fund) would need to be big enough that sticking $1000 of it in a different place would be no big deal. You don't need to actually use the account with them. zer0spunk posted:I'm averaging about 500-700 in utilities and smaller bills, so this would just switch from paying at the head of the billing cycle to the end with the benefit of increasing my credit score. You definitely don't need to pay your rent with it, just using it actively is enough. Put it in your wallet for daily poo poo, and put any utilities on it that you're comfortable moving. The whole thing about there being a too much/too little sweet spot for utilization is kind of a myth. Supposedly some banks look for medium utilization on at least one card, but in the vast majority of cases lower is better (and for you it definitely is, since you're focused on maximizing your score and not your rewards). A few of us itt completely pay off our cards weekly or biweekly with seemingly no negative effect on our scores. I've been instantly approved at at least one of the banks that supposedly wants utilization, too. No reason to sweat hovering at 25% utilization or whatever imho. zer0spunk posted:I don't really travel anymore for work since 2020, so for now, mileage and travel bonuses aren't a factor in a card. I also don't know that the difference between 1 or 2 percent at the level of spending this would cover is really all that crucial either. Where you currently bank should have absolutely no bearing on what card you get, imo. I think of it kind of like picking a place to invest, it serves an entirely different function. The process of using and paying off the card is the exact same regardless of what account the money comes out of, so you may as well get the best tool for the job. zer0spunk posted:I already bank with chase so I'm thinking of going with the basic card, and maybe upgrading that to the annual fee one with travel bonuses whenever I begin to have to do that again. Does this sound solid, thread? Speaking as someone who has all of the above and a long relationship with Chase, I would only recommend getting one of the two basic Chase cards if you're planning to eventually get the whole "trifecta" (Freedom Flex, Freedom Unlimited, and one of the Sapphires) and juggle different cards for different categories on an ongoing basis (and I don't recommend this, it wasn't worth the effort for me so I'd wager it definitely won't be for you). If you just want to carry one card and be done with it, then a card that pays one simple rate on all purchases will almost always stack up to be more rewarding in the long run, even if the rate seems boring and unimpressive. You're right that if you're only spending ~7200 a year on the card (napkin math pulling from the numbers you posted) then the 1% difference between Chase Unlimited and Alliant Signature is worth about $72. Take out the $30ish that you lose by having that $1000 in their bank account instead of an HSA, and you only make 42 bucks. But it's still 42 extra bucks for no extra work, and that's assuming you don't use the card for any daily spend stuff at all. If you do, you''ll make more and get that warranty extension on anything you buy with it. If having to have the extra bank account still puts you off, you're not the only one. But I would still recommend grabbing one of the simple 2% cards out there like Fidelity's instead. Don't opt out of 25-40% of your cash back just to stay in Chase's ecosystem, especially if you aren't leaning into it fully. (Sorry for the long-winded effortpost, I am apparently really determined to avoid work today) Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Feb 11, 2023 |
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Feb 11, 2023 22:00
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pseudanonymous posted:it sounds like the low effort option, personally I'm a big fan of Alliant, better savings rate, checking with interest, best all around solid flat cash back card and they are a credit union so their purpose is to benefit their members or a cause, not making rich people even richer, but chase isn't literally the worst of the big banks, it's only like... 3rd worst. I also agree with pseudo that it's a better place to park your money in general anyway, for a host of reasons both social and practical, but you didn't ask us about where to bank  Medullah posted:using them is something I avoid since it's very very BWM. I'm with Inner Light. I know I shouldn't waste that money on delivery, but stores are a nightmare and planning/executing a shopping trip myself can easily eat up all the free time and focus juice my poor ADHD brain has for that entire day 
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Feb 11, 2023 22:18
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Unsinkabear posted:I also agree with pseudo that it's a better place to park your money in general anyway, for a host of reasons both social and practical, but you didn't ask us about where to bank Yeah they have their uses for sure but I got super lazy and reliant on Instacart and Door dash in 2020 and had to wean myself off in 2021-2022 since I was using them out of laziness and not a true need
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Feb 11, 2023 22:24
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Unsinkabear posted:in depth stuff Ok, all totally fair. I also get that caring more about the credit score aspect than the rewards goes against the popular use case of the thread. For some reason, I also just assumed credit unions were less accessible then franchise banks, but it seems like they have a decent amount of atm options. The requirement of having a min. amount with them isn't really the obstacle at all, just figured simplicity was the move but if that seems to be the smarter move, you're all right in saying why not do it this way. I'll check it out.
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Feb 11, 2023 23:05
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Unsinkabear posted:I was assuming that if you live in a high cost of living area and are moving into a higher one, that your emergency fund (even a one-month fund) would need to be big enough that sticking $1000 of it in a different place would be no big deal. You don't need to actually use the account with them. As someone with Chase and Fidelity accounts, and now Alliant, I feel like tossing in a two-cent essay as well: Card utilization sweet spot: more than zero within the past year or two, and the less, the better. Under 30% is a good rule of thumb. I am in the "pays off balances every weekend" club and my credit score only has upward pressure. Chasing points: I stuck with a 2% card to start. Those were simpler, easier times. Brought in maybe $400 a year off purchases I was already making. Then opportunities to churn sign-up bonuses and get higher yields sucked me in, and I accepted my fate down the rabbit hole. It's not too bad. I keep a Notes page open with each card's promotional categories (Chase cards + whatever the latest Fidelity promo is). A Citi Custom Cash fills in the outlier category to keep as many 5%+ categories in play as possible. The SUBs bring in a few hundred dollars per year, but I especially like seeing my point redemptions go from $400 to around $700, tax free. Alliant: The napkin math checks out, however, in my case the money would be in a checking account one way or another, so it may as well sit in Alliant's, earn a percentage, and qualify me for the 2.5% catch-all card. The warranty extension and 0% foreign transaction fee boost it even higher in my book. Compare that to, say, CostCo's card losing warranty extension or Fidelity's 1% FTF (not bad at all, but still). Chase Trifecta: I've already vented about the Sapphire Preferred lacking a versatile method of getting 1.25x redemption on points. Works well in some circumstances but far from all; SUB is hard to ignore, though. Having either of the Freedoms for 3% back at restaurants and 5% back when the Chase travel portal's options are competitive isn't too bad, plus they have SUBs and their own Chase offers every so often ($5 back on $10+ at restaurants until end of February, applies to multiple cards). Going to keep mining for percentage now that I'm already this far along, though Alliant's card makes a strong case for a one-card wallet. Also, for what it's worth, the Alliant app's check recognition is failing to recognize the same lovely check that Fidelity's app can't recognize, either. Time to mail out the check and cross my fingers, hooray online everything. On the other hand, thank you Alliant for granting $10k to start with their card as opposed to $900 from Chase for last year's Freedom Flex.
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Feb 11, 2023 23:35
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Space Fish posted:Also, for what it's worth, the Alliant app's check recognition is failing to recognize the same lovely check that Fidelity's app can't recognize, either. Time to mail out the check and cross my fingers, hooray online everything. I agree with 99% of this post, and I'm an Alliant fanboy myself. I do keep an "absolutely free checking" account at a local bank, though, for cases like this, where I get a weird check (or cash) that I need to deposit. I've had to use it exactly twice in the last two years, but it's been handy when I've needed it.
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Feb 11, 2023 23:48
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Space Fish posted:Alliant: The napkin math checks out, however, in my case the money would be in a checking account one way or another, so it may as well sit in Alliant's, earn a percentage, and qualify me for the 2.5% catch-all card. This is a good point that applies to almost everyone imo. I was just hesitant to go there because "get this card and don't worry about the requirement because you should also move checking there and just make them your banking hub while you're at it" is an understandably hard sell. I didn't know if that would put OP off the card advice. saintonan posted:I agree with 99% of this post, and I'm an Alliant fanboy myself. I do keep an "absolutely free checking" account at a local bank, though, for cases like this, where I get a weird check (or cash) that I need to deposit. I've had to use it exactly twice in the last two years, but it's been handy when I've needed it. Someone just mentioned that in the general BFC thread, too. I really should set something like this up, just not sure who that would be around here.
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Feb 12, 2023 00:09
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Inner Light posted:Hey thread, for sapphire reserve, the doordash membership is a ~12 month total benefit right , then the benefit is permanently gone and I have to shell out full price to renew doordash pass each year, is that right? Hmm, I cancelled my CSR, does that mean I have to manually cancel the Doordash thing?
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Feb 12, 2023 01:44
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smackfu posted:Hmm, I cancelled my CSR, does that mean I have to manually cancel the Doordash thing? Oh yes absolutely. It very clearly spells out in all the things you agree to (I mean clear for small fine print stuff) that the payments and memberships will 100% continue 100% paid by you and not the card company if you do not manually cancel. Whether they finagle some deal thing 12 months in the future that continues the benefit so you don't have to pay is unknown when you sign up, if that makes sense the way I'm explaining it. However, regarding your specific situation -- if the card number tied to your DoorDash thing is no longer valid, and DoorDash does not have a sometimes-used function with its payment processor to automatically update card numbers, then you don't have to worry about it and it will auto cancel. For gig apps and subscriptions in TYOOL '23, if the card lapses they'll just cancel, no collection agencies or stuff like that since you didn't use anything you didn't pay for. Apropos for the purposes of this thread, I use the above to my advantage all the time and like to use single-use anonymous credit card numbers for certain things, a few companies generate these nowadays including Apple and Privacy.com (which I use). Inner Light fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Feb 12, 2023 |
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Feb 12, 2023 01:50
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It looks like some weird state where my DashPass doesn't expire until Dec 31, 2024, but if I don't pay on my (cancelled) CSR, I don't get the benefits. Anyways, I cancelled DashPass regarldess, and it says I can use the benefits until Jan 18, 2024. WTF
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Feb 12, 2023 01:58
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smackfu posted:It looks like some weird state where my DashPass doesn't expire until Dec 31, 2024, but if I don't pay on my (cancelled) CSR, I don't get the benefits. Yeah I know that seems weird, it pretty much makes sense though. The way the promotion works on their back-end, it validates your DashPass against your Chase card number. If you try to use it with a different card number, won't work. So, the badly worded message is saying theoretically you could use it with your CSR through then. But you really can't because the CSR won't be available for you to place an order with. That's all my guess anyway.
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Feb 12, 2023 02:00
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For future reference, product changing to the Chase Sapphire should preserve that benefit.
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Feb 12, 2023 02:27
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astral posted:For future reference, product changing to the Chase Sapphire should preserve that benefit. astral! Hello! I don't know if I've encountered you in my comfortable-zone forums bookmarks yet. Thanks for what you do and keeping this sad community going 
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Feb 12, 2023 02:31
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Actually, I got DashPass through my (now cancelled) CSR, and it has been continuing to work just fine with my other cards (currently CSP). I still get the fee reductions, 5% back on pickup orders, a $5 monthly coupon, etc. No idea why, but I can't complain.Space Fish posted:plus they have SUBs and their own Chase offers every so often ($5 back on $10+ at restaurants until end of February, applies to multiple cards). Oh wow, glad you mentioned this. I pretty much never look at my Chase offers since I've never seen one I'd actually use, but this offer was sitting on all five of my Chase cards.
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Feb 12, 2023 02:34
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CSR gives you lyft pink and doordash. my lyft pink had expired for a while (before CSR decided to renew it as a benefit for people longer than a year) and i don't recall being charged for it and i never canceled it. i never renewed my doordash either. if you cancel CSR.. how would doordash even know where to charge? you've canceled the card associated with the benefit.
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Feb 12, 2023 07:34
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I have two Visa credit cards - one from Bank of America and one from a local credit union. Is it possible to transfer some of the credit limit from one card to the other? They are way disproportionate with the BoA being over $15k and the credit union is $6k. Frankly I never plan to use the BoA one again except for a small purchase every 12 months to keep it open.
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Feb 13, 2023 05:05
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Talk to the credit union about a credit limit increase (see if they do it with a soft pull instead of a hard pull) or sign up for a different card elsewhere.
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Feb 13, 2023 05:16
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Yeah I asked them for a credit increase recently and they did a soft pull. I asked to increase to 9k but they were only willing to do 6k.
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Feb 13, 2023 05:45
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Mu Zeta posted:I have two Visa credit cards - one from Bank of America and one from a local credit union. Is it possible to transfer some of the credit limit from one card to the other? They are way disproportionate with the BoA being over $15k and the credit union is $6k. Frankly I never plan to use the BoA one again except for a small purchase every 12 months to keep it open. There is no way to transfer a line of credit from one lender to another. Some banks will let you reallocate credit lines, others won't. If you ask for a credit line increase every 30-90 days, and keep using the card, they should increase it. You want to let some activity post to the statement, then pay it off.
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Feb 13, 2023 07:41
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Five years ago, I got a Chase Sapphire Reserve card. I've never actually used the points on it, and I now have 310,000. I was planning for a long time to book a first-class ANA ticket to Tokyo for 120,000 points, but then COVID happened and by the time I looked into flights for my planned trip from September 17-30, those were all gone. However, they do still have economy tickets available with awards purchases. Based on the award chart I saw, I think that would cost 65,000 points. I guess I'm looking for a sanity check on the process to use these points. I think I understand it and it's this: 1.) Using the United website, find the specific ANA flights I want to book that have awards-eligible seats still available 2.) Create a Virgin Atlantic account 3.) Call Virgin Atlantic and ask them to place a hold on those ANA flight seats, get a reservation # 4.) Log in to the Chase Ultimate Rewards website, click "Transfer to Travel Partners," and transfer the 65,000 points to my new Virgin Atlantic account 5.) Wait for the points transfer to be completed 6.) Call Virgin Atlantic back with my reservation # and pay the points for the ANA flight Am I missing anything there? Thank you!
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Feb 13, 2023 15:01
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Mu Zeta posted:I have two Visa credit cards - one from Bank of America and one from a local credit union. Is it possible to transfer some of the credit limit from one card to the other? They are way disproportionate with the BoA being over $15k and the credit union is $6k. Frankly I never plan to use the BoA one again except for a small purchase every 12 months to keep it open. Visa is just the processor. BOA and your credit union are the ones that offer the lines of credit for your cards so there is no way to transfer the limit because they are independent entities. What you're interested in doing is getting a credit limit increase from your credit union not a limit transfer. When people post about transferring credit limits they are talking about moving stuff around between multiple cards issued by the same bank.
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Feb 13, 2023 16:37
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It's also fairly standard for credit unions to be more conservative in their lending limits than larger banks.
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Feb 13, 2023 17:30
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surf rock posted:Five years ago, I got a Chase Sapphire Reserve card. I've never actually used the points on it, and I now have 310,000. I was planning for a long time to book a first-class ANA ticket to Tokyo for 120,000 points, but then COVID happened and by the time I looked into flights for my planned trip from September 17-30, those were all gone. However, they do still have economy tickets available with awards purchases. Based on the award chart I saw, I think that would cost 65,000 points. Why are you going through all these steps?
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Feb 13, 2023 19:56
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Strong Sauce posted:Why are you going through all these steps? If I look at the same flight using the Chase Ultimate Rewards portal, it would be 121,650 points. Based on the awards chart here, it's 65,000 if I book through Virgin Atlantic. EDIT: just went through and did the process I listed out. I had it slightly wrong; Virgin Atlantic can't place a hold on an ANA flight's seats. However, the Chase point transfer to Virgin Atlantic was instantaneous, so I just did it while on the phone and he was able to book it immediately. Also, I have literally never talked to a nicer customer service rep than the Virgin Atlantic person, goddamn. surf rock fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Feb 14, 2023 |
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Feb 13, 2023 20:34
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Does Citi still offer extended warranty coverage? This thing I found on thepointsguy says they still offer 2 years of coverage on a few of their primo cards but I can't find anything on the Citi website to confirm. Is the thepointsguy thing out of date? Btw if anyone here does sign up for an Alliant account make sure to check out this sign up bonus offer for 400 free dollars if you deposit $10k with them. Supposedly current members can get $300 of that.
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Feb 14, 2023 17:45
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How do you all balance SUBs vs PCs in terms of managing your number of cards and average account age? I have an Amex Blue Cash Preferred and Delta Skymiles Blue, both of which are 16 years old, and I'm thinking of getting a Blue Cash Everyday. I already have a dozen cards. Blue Cash Preferred -6% back on groceries but I do most of my food shopping at Costco. I only spent $1k at "grocery stores" in 2022. -Generous extended warranty approval for expensive electronics. My Chase Freedom Unlimited and Amazon Prime Visa might be stingy about extended warranty? -$95 AF which I don't really recoup from the above. Delta Skymiles Blue -I literally haven't used this card in at least a dozen years. I'm honestly surprised they haven't closed the account. -No AF Blue Cash Everyday -3% back on groceries -3% back on online purchases. This feels like my last major spend category but the additional 1% over my Citi Double Cash may not amount to much. -No extended warranty but my other cards may fill this need? -No AF Options: 1) PC from Delta Blue to BCE. This is simplest and activity would ensure a 16 yo account doesn't get closed but the PC may not be possible 2) PC from BCP to BCE to save on AF. This kinda makes sense but I'm planning to build a new desktop this year so the extended warranty would be useful. 3) Apply for BCE. SUB is $250 on $2k spend within 6 months. I have 800+ FICO and 1 hard pull in the last 12 months. 4) I already have too many cards, just continue using Citi Double Cash for online purchases. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Feb 14, 2023 |
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Feb 14, 2023 18:58
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Josh Lyman posted:How do you all balance SUBs vs PCs in terms of managing your number of cards and average account age? I have an Amex Blue Cash Preferred and Delta Skymiles Blue, both of which are 16 years old, and I'm thinking of getting a Blue Cash Everyday. I already have a dozen cards. Get subs when you can, pc if you can to a no AF card, if you can't cancel it. If you do this consistently for a couple of years you'll have about 8 cards and it wont really matter if you open and close one within a year. In the short term you'll take a credit hit for opening new cards and your avg age of accounts going down, but if you stick with this strategy for at least a year or two then you'll basically have helped your long term credit score go up and be relatively proof against opening new cards or closing cards. Amazon has a feature where you can set a card to auto-reload a gift card for any amount, so you can schedule a 5$ gift card purchase every 6 months on your delta skymiles blue so it stays open. You probably won't be able to PC from a Delta Blue to a non-delta card. Banks usualy consider co-branded cards to be a "family". I have like 12 credit cards now, I've opened like 6 in the last year, and made about 1.5k or 2k on subs (gross, not net).
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Feb 14, 2023 19:37
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Hey all, would love some advice on opening some new cards. Goal is to try and maximize some of my cash back without too much juggling (a little juggling is fine). I’m very much a get set up and let it run person, but I can short bursts of focus to rack up a good reward or 2. Here’s what I have/what I spend on. - Amazon/whole foods 5% card - capital one quicksilver unlimited 1.5% back - Apple Card (for apple poo poo) Credit is good to excellent, outside of super exclusivity I doubt I’d have trouble getting approved for stuff. I’m a bi-weeker for paying off, but occasionally I’ll let a couple grand balance roll over cause I didn’t catch it before hand. All 3 cards have a limit above $10k. My current strat is just put everything except Amazon/whole foods and apple purchases on the quicksilver. All bills and purchases that can be made with a credit card (which is basically everything except mortgage, car payment, and electric/gas) go on the quicksilver. Due to this, I shouldn’t have any issues hitting a minimum spend on a new card as long as it’s one at a time. I’m not a huge fan of the annual fees but if the benefit is large enough I’d consider. I don’t travel often though. What I buy: - bills - weekly groceries (Wegmans usually) - takeout like 3 times a week if you include work lunches - random gadgets, toys, TCGs and poo poo, changes month to month but there’s always something getting purchases for me or kiddo or wife. No rhyme, reason, or pattern outside of maybe 20% of it coming from Amazon due to quick ship. - I do not buy gas. In short, worried I’m missing out on a good amount of extra cash by just sticking with the 1.5% capital one card for everything. I end up with somewhere between $20-$50 dollars a month from the capital one card, depending on spending. I don’t currently have a liquid $10k that I can drop into an alliant account.
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Feb 15, 2023 18:47
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Hey all, would love some advice on opening some new cards. It sounds like what you want is a flat cashback card. There's Citi double cash, and if you get that and a citi rewards card you'll get 2.2% cash back, but the .2% on a delay at end of year. You could also grab a Citi custom cash and use it for all your groceries and get up to 5% (and another 0.5% if you get the rewards+ card) on 500$ a month. There's also the fidelity 2% flat cash back card. There's also the alliant 2.5% flat cash back card, you need to keep 1k (not 10k) on average in your checking account to qualify for the 2.5% cashback, if your average daily balance for the prior month is below 1k you'll only get 1.5% I'd learn towards advising you to change your banking to Alliant, and advising for the 2.5% cashback card, a hassle in the short term but credit unions generally offer better fees/interest rates than banks since they don't need to make a profit to give to their shareholders, their shareholders are the depositors.
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Feb 15, 2023 19:09
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I don’t currently have a liquid $10k that I can drop into an alliant account. Well lucky for you, their card only requires a tenth of that. E:fb, missed that in the above post on first reading.
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Feb 15, 2023 19:40
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For groceries, I think the best cards right now are the chase freedom and discover it when they make groceries one of their rotating 5% categories (both of them are doing 5% on groceries into the end of march) and the citi custom cash, which gives 5% back on one category but only on the first $500 a month. Beyond that, the highest no annual fee card for groceries is iirc the 3% american express. The highest no annual free straight cash back for restaurants that i am aware of is the US bank altitude go which gives 4%. For both of those it's up to you whether the extra 0.5% on groceries and 1.5% on restaurants you'd get over just using the alliant card is enough to bother with another credit card
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Feb 15, 2023 20:43
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Thanks all, gonna research on this. Shear Modulus posted:For groceries, I think the best cards right now are the chase freedom and discover it when they make groceries one of their rotating 5% categories (both of them are doing 5% on groceries into the end of march) and the citi custom cash, which gives 5% back on one category but only on the first $500 a month. Beyond that, the highest no annual fee card for groceries is iirc the 3% american express. The highest no annual free straight cash back for restaurants that i am aware of is the US bank altitude go which gives 4%. For both of those it's up to you whether the extra 0.5% on groceries and 1.5% on restaurants you'd get over just using the alliant card is enough to bother with another credit card My average monthly grocery spend is probably about 800-900. Is it 5% at $500 and 0% at $501+? I’m also not opposed to having separate cards for groceries and other stuff. I also don’t care if a card has an annual fee as long as the gain overrides the fee and the gain from a non-fee card. I’m consistent enough with using the credit card for everything so I can usually do it. Edit: After a quick look I think I’ll probably consider a combo citi double cash for most purchases + a citi custom for groceries unless I can find something better. Big ticket stuff will probably stick to my capital one quicksilver as they still offer extra warranty coverage and theft/loss/accident first 90 days. Pilfered Pallbearers fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Feb 15, 2023 |
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Feb 15, 2023 20:53
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That Citi Custom Cash only works on the first $500 per month in your category of choice. If you spend $800-900 a month in groceries, you're leaving a lot unbonused. At that spending level you'd be better off with the USBank card recommended to you above or one of the Amex grocery options. This kind of thing is why flat-rate cards are normally the recommendation unless you are prepared to go all in on juggling a bunch of specialized card for each of your major spending categories. There really isn't an efficient middle point between the two, because the card companies want there to be some spending types on each card where they can make their money back. Well, there is a middle point, but it's focusing on rolling sign-up bonuses instead of any of the above. Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Feb 15, 2023 |
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Feb 15, 2023 21:55
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Thanks all, gonna research on this. 1% at $501+. If you're truly a lost cause for maxing out points, you may find some competitive credit card bonuses from your local credit union. I saw an offer for my region that was 5% back in two quarterly categories of my choice (including internet and phone, take that Chase Ink Business) then 2% back in a third category. Another card offered 4% on dining. Other credit unions near me had bog standard "platinum" cards for weathering a balance, or 1% point redemption systems where you end up spending $2,500 for a hat from their rewards catalog. (Doesn't even come with a free bowl of soup...) Could be worth a look!
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Feb 15, 2023 22:12
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Unsinkabear posted:That Citi Custom Cash only works on the first $500 per month in your category of choice. If you spend $800-900 a month in groceries, you're leaving a lot unbonused. At that spending level you'd be better off with the USBank card recommended to you above or one of the Amex grocery options. This kind of thing is why flat-rate cards are normally the recommendation unless you are prepared to go all in on juggling a bunch of specialized card for each of your major spending categories. There really isn't an efficient middle point between the two, because the card companies want there to be some spending types on each card where they can make their money back. The Amex is only 6% on the first $6000 with is exactly $500 per month anyways. You can balance that and the Citi, since I don't think that $1000 a month on groceries for a family of 4 is too farfetched.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:04
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Hey all, would love some advice on opening some new cards. For a way to get long-term "set it and forget it" 5% back from bills, consider the US Bank Cash+ card. You can choose two 5% categories; 3 that might interest you under 'bills' are cell phones, tv/internet/streaming, and utilities. https://cashplus.usbank.com/merchants
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Feb 16, 2023 00:08
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astral posted:For a way to get long-term "set it and forget it" 5% back from bills, consider the US Bank Cash+ card. You can choose two 5% categories; 3 that might interest you under 'bills' are cell phones, tv/internet/streaming, and utilities. I use this for my cell phone and streaming services only. Not a bad setup.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:40
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Just wanted to further plug Alliant and say that they appear to have changed their tier 1/ tier 2 rewards systems for the 2.5% cashback such that you get 3 months of automatic tier 1 rewards while you move your direct deposits and such.
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Feb 16, 2023 20:02
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pseudanonymous posted:Just wanted to further plug Alliant and say that they appear to have changed their tier 1/ tier 2 rewards systems for the 2.5% cashback such that you get 3 months of automatic tier 1 rewards while you move your direct deposits and such. Awesome, now if only they'd send my drat card already.
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Feb 16, 2023 21:19
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Unsinkabear posted:Awesome, now if only they'd send my drat card already. SAME 
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Feb 16, 2023 22:16
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