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Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'd like to have the problem go away, or at least, not be so obvious.

I just got the car, and while it's used, it sucks rear end to suddenly have this glaring scratch. Since it's down to what seems to be black or maybe steel?, I wonder if it's low enough to become a rust entry point in the future, and I'd like to mitigate that

1. Yes it's a rust entry point 2. Paint pen will make it no longer a rust entry point, may need a touch up every year or so to maintain water resistance.

:page3:

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GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Inner Light posted:

1. Yes it's a rust entry point 2. Paint pen will make it no longer a rust entry point, may need a touch up every year or so to maintain water resistance.

:page3:

Kool, I'll look into what paint pen to match it to then

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I'd like to have the problem go away, or at least, not be so obvious.

I just got the car, and while it's used, it sucks rear end to suddenly have this glaring scratch. Since it's down to what seems to be black or maybe steel?, I wonder if it's low enough to become a rust entry point in the future, and I'd like to mitigate that

Just saying I would also paint pen it if you don't want to use your insurance. Bondo + paint is a whole other thing and I think it's way too much for someone who doesn't do this stuff quite a lot. If it was my car I would paint pen it and I've worked with bondo for example.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Kool, I'll look into what paint pen to match it to then


You can generally get the paint pens from the dealerships for cheap and you'll know it's exactly correct. You'll want to go in with your registration papers, they'll run the VIN and sell you a small paint pen tube for exactly that colour.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Seconding go to the dealership. They'll sell you a little bottle of paint with a brush on the inside of the cap, exactly like nail polish.

Wroughtirony
May 14, 2007



My FiST has this annoying little issue. The driver's side door speaker goes in and out inconsistently. Always has since I bought the car new in 2016. I asked about it once when it was back at the dealership for something unrelated and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem therefore there was no problem. It's not really getting worse, it's just irritating and I'm a bit of a princess about my car. My knowledge of car audio wiring is next to zero, but it seems like it's gotta be a loose connection somewhere. Is it worth having someone pull poo poo apart to fix or is this one of those situations where I should just tolerate the gremlin because poking at it might make it worse?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Wroughtirony posted:

My FiST has this annoying little issue. The driver's side door speaker goes in and out inconsistently. Always has since I bought the car new in 2016. I asked about it once when it was back at the dealership for something unrelated and they said they couldn't reproduce the problem therefore there was no problem. It's not really getting worse, it's just irritating and I'm a bit of a princess about my car. My knowledge of car audio wiring is next to zero, but it seems like it's gotta be a loose connection somewhere. Is it worth having someone pull poo poo apart to fix or is this one of those situations where I should just tolerate the gremlin because poking at it might make it worse?

I'd pull the cover and check the connection at the speaker. Should be easy and well covered on YouTube.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006
Quick Question about my rear-ended Hyundai -

What’s the best duct tape level extremely quick fix? We were expecting it to be in the shop by now, and I just want to make sure it putters around town without anything falling the gently caress off.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Probably a zip tie or two that you can attach non-destructively. No drilling, gluing, taping, et cetera. Otherwise, I’d give it a wiggle test to see how much it can move on its own. Pretty solid? Leave it alone. Wiggly? Zip ties.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Don't use duct tape on anything you plan to fix correctly. The glue makes an absolute mess.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Hit it with a paint pen now, reassess if you still care in three months if you want to splash cash to get it ground out, Bondo and repaint. Paint pen is actually really good at fixing a lot of things

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Kool, I'll look into what paint pen to match it to then
If you're gonna DIY it, there are some good how-tos on youtube that are very helpful if you're doing it the first time like I was:



sand, fill, fill again as necessary, sand, polish.

This was the best result after filling a few chips, though it still needed a bit more polishing. Not amazing but not very noticeable from a few meters either. Metallic might be a bit more challenging though.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Hello thread. I have a mk7 Golf that has a seized bleed screw on one of the calipers. Is this something I can gently persuade out with some penetrating oil and patience and/or heat and/or brute force and ignorance? Or is there some German bullshit that's going to necessitate full caliper replacement?

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Well the good news is bleeders usually sit very proud of the caliper, so you have plenty of options.

I'd hit it with penetrating oil daily a few days prior if you have the time.

Then I'd get it hot, at a minimum with a heat gun but ideally a torch, but only if you can be precise about it.

Then just clamp the fucker with vice grips and slowly work it back and forth.

Mentally prepare yourself that it may snap off, in that case, for a common car like that I'd just get a new caliper rather than messing with trying to extract it.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


opengl posted:

Well the good news is bleeders usually sit very proud of the caliper, so you have plenty of options.

I'd hit it with penetrating oil daily a few days prior if you have the time.

Then I'd get it hot, at a minimum with a heat gun but ideally a torch, but only if you can be precise about it.

Then just clamp the fucker with vice grips and slowly work it back and forth.

Mentally prepare yourself that it may snap off, in that case, for a common car like that I'd just get a new caliper rather than messing with trying to extract it.

Right on, that's what I figured. I've got lots of time, the car gets used infrequently, so I'll feed it some mouse milk for a few days then warm it up with a kitchen torch and see how I get on.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Question about donuts (not the Dunkin kind, the spare tire kind)

Is the 50mph limit that's stated on the tire a hard cutoff or more for legal/liability purposes? My wife hit a piece of pavement in the road and popped a hole in the sidewall. The dealership is the only place with the right tires in stock and it needs a service anyway, but it's 25 miles away and she's gotta take the interstate.

I put the donut on the rear (FWD Avalon) so I figured it would be ok on the interstate as long as she's not doing 70 or something, but if it's too risky I'll just order a tire local and wait.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
I'd consider it more of a legal thing but they really don't live long even at that speed. Definitely don't go over that speed on anything but a dry road, the difference in size is going to make for some funky handling and braking as it is.

I'd suggest to do, say, probably 60 in the right lane with the flashers on. Not the breakdown lane unless you want a second flat, given how much junk accumulates there.

Me, I'd slap it on and roll out at speed of traffic, but I have handled a steer tire blowout on a lifted truck with no sway bar at 80 without any drama, I have no idea what your wife's driving abilities are.

kastein fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Feb 13, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I'm not sure what the lifespan is of a spare tire but if it's older than ~10 years I'd be extra cautious using it. In a more grim past life I drove on a donut for like a month (six weeks?) at speeds up to 65, commuting about 60 miles round trip daily and eventually wore through the tread. I don't recommend doing that but they're probably more capable than it says on the label. Don't do what I did though

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Question about donuts (not the Dunkin kind, the spare tire kind)

Is the 50mph limit that's stated on the tire a hard cutoff or more for legal/liability purposes? My wife hit a piece of pavement in the road and popped a hole in the sidewall. The dealership is the only place with the right tires in stock and it needs a service anyway, but it's 25 miles away and she's gotta take the interstate.

I put the donut on the rear (FWD Avalon) so I figured it would be ok on the interstate as long as she's not doing 70 or something, but if it's too risky I'll just order a tire local and wait.

Do you have a AAA membership? Tow dat bish.

Like kastein, I'd drive it, but instead of experienced I'm just crazy.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Beach Bum posted:

Like kastein, I'd drive it, but instead of experienced I'm just crazy.

A little from column A, a little from column B

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Question about donuts (not the Dunkin kind, the spare tire kind)

Is the 50mph limit that's stated on the tire a hard cutoff or more for legal/liability purposes? My wife hit a piece of pavement in the road and popped a hole in the sidewall. The dealership is the only place with the right tires in stock and it needs a service anyway, but it's 25 miles away and she's gotta take the interstate.

I put the donut on the rear (FWD Avalon) so I figured it would be ok on the interstate as long as she's not doing 70 or something, but if it's too risky I'll just order a tire local and wait.

I can't directly say that it's safe, but I can say in my younger days I spent a fair bit of time on a donut and it involved higher speeds than 50mph and a non-zero amount of drifting and burnouts. And for way longer than 25 miles.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Hadlock posted:

I'm not sure what the lifespan is of a spare tire but if it's older than ~10 years I'd be extra cautious using it.

It's a brand new car, brand new spare lol.

It was definitely a bit sketchy with it on the front and drove funny, but when I moved it to the rear it's 100% better and I barely notice it tbh. Drove it around town some more today and I think it should be fine for one 25 mile jaunt on the interstate at reasonable speeds.

theOctagon
Apr 22, 2005

I bet you are wondering what I call my penis... it's the
I let a friend drive and they tagged a curb and scratched my rim pretty bad trying to parallel park. Does anyone have any experience with the in driveway rim repair places? If those aren’t great where should I look to get this fixed?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



theOctagon posted:

I let a friend drive and they tagged a curb and scratched my rim pretty bad trying to parallel park. Does anyone have any experience with the in driveway rim repair places? If those aren’t great where should I look to get this fixed?

Like as keeps coming up both in this thread and the car buying megathread--

When you have a question, it is you who must decide how good the repair you are asking questions about will end up being. We can guide you on the options of crappiness, then you can decide, but in the end you must decide, otherwise the goon recommendations will have so much variability as to be less usable.

Ok rant over sorry not directed at you -- so, how crappy do you want it to be? Good as new, 5 foot test, 10 foot test, etc. ? It doesn't even look like you're asking DIY so you can completely disregard what I wrote.

If you want good as new or within 5% to good as new, it's gonna have to be a pro, most likely at a "wheel repair shop" googleable in your area. Usually runs $100 in my city for a very good job.

Driveway shadetree job, idk I don't do this since I live in a condo, but you'd need rattle cans or some other paint and bondo stuff to smooth out gashes.

If you want literally new paint, the wheel repair shop may either offer or hire out powder coating, in any color you want or back to stock.

Ok others can keep me honest on those or more options :) if you don't like those options, you can also google a reputable body shop near you, they can probably chat about options for wheel repair or wheel repaint over the phone.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Feb 14, 2023

theOctagon
Apr 22, 2005

I bet you are wondering what I call my penis... it's the
I’m looking for a professional repair. When I google wheel repair in my area almost everything that comes up is a mobile shop that comes to you. My question is if those are as good as a shop, and if not does anyone have a northern Virginia shop they recommend?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Driveway shadetree job, idk I don't do this since I live in a condo, but you'd need rattle cans or some other paint and bondo stuff to smooth out gashes.

To this point: Who is going to fix a wheel in a driveway in any meaningful way?

Actual wheel repair involves things like dismounting the tire to begin with and depending on the kind of wheel likely a coating that needs to dry or be UV cured for some amount of hours after grinding/filling.

So no, there are still no magic answers. Unless a magic eraser + a hose takes enough of the paint transfer off to be what you're looking for.

theOctagon posted:

I’m looking for a professional repair.

Why? Is this a unique or special car/wheel? If not replacing the wheel is likely both better and cheaper.

Or did you think repair would be a less expensive option?

Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Feb 14, 2023

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Motronic posted:

To this point: Who is going to fix a wheel in a driveway in any meaningful way?

Actual wheel repair involves things like dismounting the tire to begin with and depending on the kind of wheel likely a coating that needs to dry or be UV cured for some amount of hours after grinding/filling.

So no, there are still no magic answers. Unless a magic eraser + a hose takes enough of the paint transfer off to be what you're looking for.

Why? Is this a unique or special car/wheel? If not replacing the wheel is likely both better and cheaper.

Or did you think repair would be a less expensive option?

Hey sup Motronic man appreciate the post, I stan you due to the knowledge drop I mean so thanks.

I’m phone posting but I will differ opinions minorly with you on the last point. I completely hosed up my previously good condition 2013 Audi A4 wheel surface. Broad scratches across much of the face.

Repair was a cheaper option for me personally in those circumstances.

I called up a specific shop in my area that I have done business with. They are a wheel repair shop that has been operating for many decades here, and they’re very good. The gentleman who helped me, at like 6PM I think — worked magic in their garage (that has like 8 lifts or something) with a grinder and idk what else to match the color with his paint.

Matches beautifully now. So, if you live in a big city, sometimes you know the right places and can skip a new or junkyard wheel.

Oh also, this type of wheel paint repair of course isn’t as good as properly coated powder manufacturer paint. He did take strip down old paint before but a proper job is as Motronic described. Can’t get that for less than an arm and a leg these days

Hope that makes sense.

e: please do business with them if you are in the Chicagoland area. Arandas TR Tires and Rims, absolutely PM me so I can give you my name and get good vibes with them please

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Feb 14, 2023

theOctagon
Apr 22, 2005

I bet you are wondering what I call my penis... it's the
I’m not sure but cheapest new rim i can find is ~$405 seems like we have a lot of room for $100 repairs before replacement makes sense

2018 Wrx STI they are 19x8.5

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



theOctagon posted:

I’m not sure but cheapest new rim i can find is ~$405 seems like we have a lot of room for $100 repairs before replacement makes sense

2018 Wrx STI they are 19x8.5

I’ll take it to the shop I described above if you want to ship it to me / us. You can send photos if you’d like of course to chat before. Just an option / idea to throw out, no expectation you need to consider it or anything :)

https://www.arandastr.com/

But I imagine you’d find a shop in VA that does the same easier than all that, probably.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Feb 14, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Repair was a cheaper option for me personally in those circumstances.

I called up a specific shop in my area that I have done business with. They are a wheel repair shop that has been operating for many decades here, and they’re very good. The gentleman who helped me, at like 6PM I think — worked magic in their garage (that has like 8 lifts or something) with a grinder and idk what else to match the color with his paint.

Matches beautifully now. So, if you live in a big city, sometimes you know the right places and can skip a new or junkyard wheel.

I'd love to have a shop like that around. And of course, if just removing material and a quick spray bomb is your level of "this is fixed" than that's great.....you got what you wanted and fast. And for something as common as that wheel I wouldn't do anything more.

theOctagon posted:

I’m not sure but cheapest new rim i can find is ~$405 seems like we have a lot of room for $100 repairs before replacement makes sense

That would mean there has to be an acceptable repair that can be done for $100, which was the point I was making. If that's the kind of repair that makes you happy you should do exactly that.

I've not run into many situation where that kind of repair can be done without a base price of dismount/mount+balance which doesn't leave a lot of room in a $100 repair.

Maybe you all just pay less for repairs?

Wonderllama
Mar 15, 2003

anyone wanna andreyfuck?

theOctagon posted:

I’m not sure but cheapest new rim i can find is ~$405 seems like we have a lot of room for $100 repairs before replacement makes sense

2018 Wrx STI they are 19x8.5

Call the local Subaru dealer and find out who they use. If the service department won't tell you, check with the local Subaru clubs or whatever.

I did this to my BMW and used the BMW dealer guy, who actually had a van/workshop parked on the dealer lot and i went right thru him to fix my wheel flawlessly for $120*


*Extra charge because my wheel was ultra hard to blend the paint on, apparently. Didn't care, they came out perfect

theOctagon
Apr 22, 2005

I bet you are wondering what I call my penis... it's the
Thanks all for the recommendations, sounds like I can get it taken care of reasonably cheaply. If I can go another few years without this happening again I’ll be happy.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
Is there a shortage of BMW Longlife-01 oil? Cause I just went to four different places who told me that they were out. :argh:

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Google doesn't yield a single overwhelming answer to this question

Do valve springs experience creep (loss of springiness) over long enough time spans? Like, should you expect to replace your valve springs every 60 years if you want to retain top end performance (valve float?)

The one semi coherent response I saw was an 8% loss due to creep on a logarithmic scale (log x) with virtually zero context

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Hadlock posted:

Google doesn't yield a single overwhelming answer to this question

Do valve springs experience creep (loss of springiness) over long enough time spans? Like, should you expect to replace your valve springs every 60 years if you want to retain top end performance (valve float?)

The one semi coherent response I saw was an 8% loss due to creep on a logarithmic scale (log x) with virtually zero context
I'd have to guess that mileage would be the biggest factor.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Hadlock posted:

Google doesn't yield a single overwhelming answer to this question

Do valve springs experience creep (loss of springiness) over long enough time spans? Like, should you expect to replace your valve springs every 60 years if you want to retain top end performance (valve float?)

The one semi coherent response I saw was an 8% loss due to creep on a logarithmic scale (log x) with virtually zero context

Unless you're actually experiencing valve float, that's not something I'd worry about on a stock engine of any age. Valvespring failures are almost always due to material defect, or an engine with an aggressive aftermarket camshaft and much stiffer valvesprings that are being pushed beyond reasonable limits.

On the other hand, if you're pulling the head apart already, I wouldn't put 60 year old valvesprings back in unless new ones were prohibitively hard to get.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Valve springs are 40% off this week in this case but I don't have a good excuse to pull the valve cover right now

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Nothing wrong with picking up a set if you can. They won't go bad like an avocado.

There's a compression test for springs but I don't have the tool. You could probably rig up something.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Test em. If they're generating the spring pressures pressures required at a set preload shim em if possible or replace them.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


PainterofCrap posted:

Nothing wrong with picking up a set if you can. They won't go bad like an avocado.


Now you tell me. And to think I ate all of those valve springs for nothing.

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Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I found out today that the local garage did some stupid improper stuff to my car that has resulted in my new mechanic telling me to start looking for a new car. I’m really frustrated because I like this car and planned on driving it for a few more months, however I have to start my minivan buying early.

My wife is flexible on the AWD and stow-and-go seating, so I’m wondering what the all around best and/or best value minivan is. I saw a few that had fold down third row to add more cargo space, which was a nice feature.

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