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You're going to need an abrasive blade no matter what. Pretty sure a regular blade is going to shatter. Have you ever done this before? Countertops don't often come up again. If you're hoping to salvage anything you should call a pro. Heck if it's not glued there is a small chance someone wants it for free. If you're just destroying it use a sledge hammer.
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Feb 11, 2023 19:17
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H110Hawk posted:You're going to need an abrasive blade no matter what. Pretty sure a regular blade is going to shatter. Have you ever done this before? Countertops don't often come up again. If you're hoping to salvage anything you should call a pro. Heck if it's not glued there is a small chance someone wants it for free. Cool new blade it is, I am trying save the cabinets so a new top can be installed. I don’t care about existing countertop at all. No I haven’t done this before. If I can’t easily pop/pry it off, my next idea is cut 1/8” off top of cabinet so that the countertop comes with it. Calidus fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Feb 11, 2023 |
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Feb 11, 2023 19:22
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I wouldn't bother with a blade. Just be prudent in your whacks.
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Feb 11, 2023 19:58
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devicenull posted:Update: Sent oshcut.com a drawing, and got a replacement cap made... How much was that?
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Feb 12, 2023 01:17
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If I am scribing a butcher block counter to the wall, should I be safe to just follow the line with a circular saw, or is it better to fine tune it with the belt sander? It's a long sweeping line following the curvature of my drywall. I have zero confidence in a jigsaw. I do have a cardboard template.
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Feb 12, 2023 20:55
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Personally I have just cut them straight and used backsplash try to hide my bowed drywall. Depending on the quality of the cardboard template you try a flush trim or template bit and a router.
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Feb 12, 2023 21:22
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I got 98% there with the saw and cleaned it up with a belt sander. Now I need to hide the cabinet side gaps from my crooked walls.
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Feb 12, 2023 22:14
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That wallpaper is great
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Feb 12, 2023 22:20
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FogHelmut posted:I got 98% there with the saw and cleaned it up with a belt sander. Wow! Great job, that’s tighter than nearly all pros would do. A couple pieces of moulding will cover the gaps on the cabinets. Also I agree that the wallpaper is great 
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Feb 13, 2023 19:08
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Calidus posted:Cool new blade it is, I am trying save the cabinets so a new top can be installed. I don’t care about existing countertop at all. No I haven’t done this before. If I can’t easily pop/pry it off, my next idea is cut 1/8” off top of cabinet so that the countertop comes with it. Cutting through stone is generally done with lots of water, it makes lots of dust, and it takes a long time. I think you should plan to remove the countertop whole.
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Feb 13, 2023 19:12
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If a dishwasher was plugged into an outlet with reversed wiring (Eg: hot & neutral were reversed) would it fry the circuitry of the dishwasher? I just came back from a service call where the dishwasher wasn’t working. It seems like the gfci upstream was wired backwards and outlets downstream were wired with hot and neutral reversed to compensate .. we corrected the wiring and got all the outlets sorted but the dishwasher won’t turn on at all, so I’m assuming something got fried by the reverse wiring We tested for voltage where the cord connects to the dishwasher and it’s getting sufficient current, but it won’t turn on at all. Basically I’m wondering whether it’s something an appliance technician can fix or if the whole appliance needs replacing
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Feb 13, 2023 19:15
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Probably not. The GFCI would have tripped before the washer fried itself. I'd check for simple stuff like fuses first.
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Feb 13, 2023 23:05
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Falcon2001 posted:How much was that? $350... in retrospect I did not need that gauge of stainless. Still cheaper then getting a roofer out to replace the whole thing.
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Feb 14, 2023 01:23
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We had a custom door installed last summer and it looks like the molding/trim around the glass is starting to separate from the door. Is this something that can be fixed with caulk? Or is this a bigger ‘call a professional’ type issue?  Closer up: 
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Feb 14, 2023 02:19
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Its probably a warranty issue.
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Feb 14, 2023 03:10
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Looks like the nails are backing out a bit, which can happen especially w temperature changes. The top left nail especially looks like it’s popping out the most. Grab a hammer, a nail set, and a block of wood .. you want to use the nail set to sink the nails again and you might need to coax the trim back into place by tapping it w the hammer. Place the wood in between the trim and the hammer as you do this, to protect the trim from any damage from the hammer. Kinda bogus that a custom door is doing this in under a year, maybe worth making a phone call to the company who made it for you? It’s not a huge deal but I’d still be unhappy
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Feb 14, 2023 03:18
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Thank you both, I’m leaning towards a warranty issue as well. I’m definitely not happy but I didn’t want to go complaining if it wasn’t warranted. I might see what can be done about it by the company that made it. Thanks again!
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Feb 14, 2023 04:17
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Those aren't nails - they're little plastic caps that cover up the screws that hold that glass light in place. There seems to be some (warranty) issue with that glass light, or possibly the mounting hardware.
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Feb 14, 2023 04:45
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I’m installing a range hood and a direct horizontal vent out the wall behind it. i.e. the duct is going to be a couple inches long, flush on both sides of the wall. How am I supposed to tape up the duct like the instructions suggest? I can only think that I could take out the fan assembly temporarily and do it from inside the range hood / duct. Or should I not worry too much and these instructions are more for the people running 15 feet of ducting with lots of connections?
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Feb 14, 2023 06:02
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Subfloor question: Subfloor vs 'Rated Sheathing" I think I need to install 19/32 in a place I'm replacing on my subfloor to have it at the same level as the rest of the floor that I'm going to eventually put an 1/4th inch underlayment on top of, and my local Lowe's seems to have an OSB and Plywood Rated Sheathing (both Non-Tongue and Groove) in that thickness. However, only the OSB seems to have anything on the Lowes site that indicates it's approved for subfloor use. The APA numbers on the plywood show 40/20 (which I was assuming meant I COULD use it as subflooring on joists spaced at 20in oc or less) but the Lowe's and manufacturer's website seem to say either nothing supporting it for this use or in Lowe's case has it listed as not for flooring.. I'm likely going to go with the OSB if this is the case, but I'm finding it a bit confusing. edit: Apparently on the previous version of this thread I spoke about a different floor repair at the same location, and that time I'm fairly certain I used 3/4in in that location with little issue since it was mostly obscured. This time, though, I figured out that 3/4 in this location was just sticking up a bit too much. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Feb 14, 2023 |
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Feb 14, 2023 07:59
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yippee cahier posted:I’m installing a range hood and a direct horizontal vent out the wall behind it. i.e. the duct is going to be a couple inches long, flush on both sides of the wall. How am I supposed to tape up the duct like the instructions suggest? I can only think that I could take out the fan assembly temporarily and do it from inside the range hood / duct. Or should I not worry too much and these instructions are more for the people running 15 feet of ducting with lots of connections? Can you install a length of duct to the hood, tape it, and then put the hood in place? You want to tape all joints to prevent smoke and grease from leaking out the edges of the joins. You probably know this but I'll just mention just in case, that the slightly stretchy grey "duct tape" is not for taping ducts, and in fact is actually duck tape, for taping ducking, a kind of waterproof canvas. You need HVAC duct sealing tape.
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Feb 14, 2023 19:16
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I'm going to be replacing an old drop in sink with a new one. Videos make it seem fairly straight forward but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips to make it easier. I've seen people apply silicone to both the sink and the countertop as well as someone else mention plumbers putty. What is going to be the easiest, least messy, and hardest to gently caress up?
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Feb 14, 2023 22:31
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I’m looking for a Dremel or similar tool to clean rust spots off the inside of an electric kettle. The inside is stainless steel and I can clean it with steel wool, but scrubbing sucks and I want something powered. What am I looking for?
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Feb 14, 2023 22:36
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PRADA SLUT posted:I’m looking for a Dremel or similar tool to clean rust spots off the inside of an electric kettle. You're looking for a new kettle. When a stainless steel supposedly food safe vessel begins rusting to the point that you want something powered to clean it the thing is no longer food safe.
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Feb 14, 2023 22:38
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I'm going to be replacing an old drop in sink with a new one. Videos make it seem fairly straight forward but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips to make it easier. I've seen people apply silicone to both the sink and the countertop as well as someone else mention plumbers putty. What is going to be the easiest, least messy, and hardest to gently caress up? Plumber's putty doesn't harden and is not an adhesive, it's basically just a plasticine or something. It's useful for putting around e.g. sink faucets because it'll fill the uneven gaps and keep water from accumulating inside. If the sink clips onto the countertop then you may not need an adhesive and plumber's putty can work as an alternative. That said, silicone caulk is really not that hard to deal with, and if you make a mess you can just wipe it off while wet or cut it off with a sharp tool like a razor when dry. I would trust a continuous bead of silicone to be waterproof whereas even applied properly I wouldn't trust plumber's putty to prevent water from ever getting under the edge of the sink.
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Feb 15, 2023 00:00
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Pacific Gas & Electric is offering a $3k rebate to install a heat pump water heater, plus $500 if I do it before the end of March, plus $1k from the county if I use one of a set of specific installers. I live in a a coastal area where temperatures very rarely go below 40F. Currently my water heater is a natgas tank heater, which is about 12 years old, i.e. overdue for replacement. From a brief reading up on these things, it seems like a no-brainer: cheaper cost of operation, less local pollution, and the rebate ought to cover all or nearly all the cost of the heater and installation. I see that heat pump heaters tend to be bigger, but I think there should still be plenty of room in the garage where my current heater is. The only snag is that my panel currently looks like this:  In principle some more breakers can be converted into tandem breakers, but I'm really running out of room. Also, I'm not sure if it matters, but in theory right now I could trip the master 200A breaker if I somehow was running all of my circuits at max draw. In practice, I live alone and most of these circuits have no or negligible draw most of the time. I seem to recall that updating the panel (which has a $1500 rebate!) can only be done if the entire house's circuits are brought up to code. Does anyone know if that's the case? I don't honestly remember if that would be an issue for this house. I dimly recall from the original inspection that the inspector found knob and tube wiring lying around, but I don't think it was active (i.e. someone updated the wiring and left the old stuff in place). I can't find the inspection report. Thoughts on what I should do?
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Feb 15, 2023 01:38
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I'm going to be replacing an old drop in sink with a new one. Videos make it seem fairly straight forward but I wanted to see if anyone had any tips to make it easier. I've seen people apply silicone to both the sink and the countertop as well as someone else mention plumbers putty. What is going to be the easiest, least messy, and hardest to gently caress up? Easiest clean up will be plumber's putty. A wet rag will suffice. Cleaning up silicone is a lot harder and messy.
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Feb 15, 2023 01:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Pacific Gas & Electric is offering a $3k rebate to install a heat pump water heater, plus $500 if I do it before the end of March, plus $1k from the county if I use one of a set of specific installers. I live in a a coastal area where temperatures very rarely go below 40F. Currently my water heater is a natgas tank heater, which is about 12 years old, i.e. overdue for replacement. From a brief reading up on these things, it seems like a no-brainer: cheaper cost of operation, less local pollution, and the rebate ought to cover all or nearly all the cost of the heater and installation. I see that heat pump heaters tend to be bigger, but I think there should still be plenty of room in the garage where my current heater is. Well I'm in Canada so I'm not sure it helps but I had a panel replaced and was not required to do anything to the existing circuitry for that. I had a separate permit for other work and for that, anywhere I made changes that whole circuit needed to be bought up to code (just meant afci breakers for me).
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Feb 15, 2023 02:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Also, I'm not sure if it matters, but in theory right now I could trip the master 200A breaker if I somehow was running all of my circuits at max draw. In practice, I live alone and most of these circuits have no or negligible draw most of the time.
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Feb 15, 2023 03:47
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If you have 200 amp service I bet it would be easier to add a sub panel than to replace your panel entirely.
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Feb 15, 2023 04:43
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Danhenge posted:If you have 200 amp service I bet it would be easier to add a sub panel than to replace your panel entirely. You may well be right. I'll probably call the permitting office tomorrow to get clarity on what my obligations and options are. No other concerns about a heat pump water heater?
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Feb 15, 2023 04:52
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Sorry, no idea about that.
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Feb 15, 2023 04:58
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Leperflesh posted:Can you install a length of duct to the hood, tape it, and then put the hood in place? You want to tape all joints to prevent smoke and grease from leaking out the edges of the joins. Yeah, that’s the problem. The duct is going to be entirely within the wall unless I mount the range hood a couple inches forward from the wall, so there’s no opportunity for taping up the joints unless I open up the wall. When puzzling over this I saw that the vent cap I bought can slide open to allow to taking the damper out to turn it into an intake, this should give me enough access to tape the inside seams of the duct after connecting everything up. Unless there are better ideas. I could always run a vertical duct and 90 elbow to the wall, giving room to tape the final connection but throwing away a perfect short and direct duct run doesn’t seem great. Thanks!
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Feb 15, 2023 08:19
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yippee cahier posted:Yeah, that’s the problem. The duct is going to be entirely within the wall unless I mount the range hood a couple inches forward from the wall, so there’s no opportunity for taping up the joints unless I open up the wall. Yeah at this point I'm afraid I don't know the right answer, sorry.
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Feb 15, 2023 19:24
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I live in a 5 unit rental with a shared boiler. One of my rooms is always too hot, and today I poked at the baseboard heater to see if I could disconnect it. I was under the assumption it was electric, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Is this the point where I - a barely handy renter who isn't going to get the property management company involved - stop everything and just deal with it? Or is there actually a sane and safe way for me to turn off this baseboard heater? I assume they're probably closed loops, so a shutoff valve wouldn't make sense. It's hard to get a photo of the other side, but I don't see anything remotely valve like.
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Feb 15, 2023 23:27
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Either try and get property management to deal with it or "just deal with it". If you try to work on it and something gets hosed up you are going to be held responsible for whatever damages occur to yours and other units.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:03
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wesleywillis posted:If you try to work on it and something gets hosed up you are going to be held responsible for Fixed that for you. Don't give your landlord an excuse to bill you for all the repairs and updates people have been bothering them to implement for the past 50 years.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:12
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The cover for that should have a moveable flap, try closing the flap. If it’s been open for a long time, sometimes they get stuck or swing back open.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You may well be right. I'll probably call the permitting office tomorrow to get clarity on what my obligations and options are. I called the permitting office, they put me in touch with their head inspector, who said "yeah just add a subpanel, no problem". So probably what I'll do is buy and box in the subpanel myself, run the conduit from it to where the heater would go, and maybe also fish the cable through the conduit, then hire an electrician to hook the subpanel into the main panel. Then get that inspected so it's all nice and legal. I have a bunch of leftover 12ga armored cable that, unfortunately, isn't quite big enough for what the heater would need, from what I'm reading online. Oh, well...
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Feb 16, 2023 01:10
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Happiness Commando posted:I live in a 5 unit rental with a shared boiler. One of my rooms is always too hot, and today I poked at the baseboard heater to see if I could disconnect it. I was under the assumption it was electric, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Is this the point where I - a barely handy renter who isn't going to get the property management company involved - stop everything and just deal with it? Or is there actually a sane and safe way for me to turn off this baseboard heater? I assume they're probably closed loops, so a shutoff valve wouldn't make sense. It's hard to get a photo of the other side, but I don't see anything remotely valve like. Nicer landlords will install thermostatic valves on radiators to regulate the temperature of each room. As far as I know that’s the only real way. I wouldn’t attempt installing or adjusting any valves as a tenant — too much liability and uncertainly on old systems. I’m afraid the only real tenant hack is cracking a window.
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Feb 16, 2023 05:17
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