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Any tips for staining the cut edge of the butcher block counter? It seems to soak up a lot of stain and get extra dark. Keep sanding beyond 220 grit?
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Feb 16, 2023 22:07
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 07:50 |
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End grain always soaks up stains and finishes more than long grain does. Folks in the woodworking thread might have some tips to help you get a more consistent look, but so far as I know it's just a fact of life.
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Feb 16, 2023 22:38
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FogHelmut posted:Any tips for staining the cut edge of the butcher block counter? It seems to soak up a lot of stain and get extra dark. Keep sanding beyond 220 grit?
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Feb 17, 2023 00:49
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The side grain where I had cut it is being hidden against the wall, but it took a much darker stain than the factory finished side grain. I did do a quick go-over on the factory side with 220 to take off the outer layer before staining. I'm doing another piece where the cut side grain is being exposed, so I'll give it a good go with the sander.
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Feb 17, 2023 02:48
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you can also dilute the stain, or try using a stain conditioner, but in both cases you'd want to experiment with an offcut
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Feb 17, 2023 02:55
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Trying to plan ahead for warmer, drier weather and I want to repaint my porch. I have a belt sander to try and make my life easier. Assuming all the wood is good, what grits should I probably work with? I don't think I need to start with something as abrasive as an 80, but I want to do it correctly. Also, it it ok to run the sander over the screw heads (assuming they are at or below surface level)? As for paint, I do want paint as opposed to stain. Is there a better brand or style? Do I just want exterior house paint, or do they make a specific, higher wear-and-tear style paint for porches? Should I get some kind of sealer, or would a good brand have an all in one?
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Feb 17, 2023 16:03
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CzarChasm posted:Trying to plan ahead for warmer, drier weather and I want to repaint my porch. I have a belt sander to try and make my life easier. Assuming all the wood is good, what grits should I probably work with? I don't think I need to start with something as abrasive as an 80, but I want to do it correctly. Also, it it ok to run the sander over the screw heads (assuming they are at or below surface level)? What is the surface now that you are trying to remove? Its a near certainty you should not start with a sander at all, but rather some form of paint/finish stripper.
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Feb 17, 2023 17:07
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I'd disagree on chemical stripping, personally. It's messy and can then impregnate the wood to some degree and mess with your new paint if there's any residue left in or on the wood. Is the existing paint in good shape and sound or is it peeling, flaking, etc? If it's down tight and just a latex I'd just clean the poo poo out of it, scuff sand, and paint over it with an acrylic porch and floor paint from your paint retailer of choice. Don't use a regular exterior house paint, they'll be too soft and will pick up lots of dirt and wear poorly. If you're gonna sand it bare I'd probably start with 60 or 80 grit to remove most of the paint and finish with maybe 220 at most. You don't want to sand it too slick, you want somewhat of a surface profile for the paint to get a good mechanical bond to.
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Feb 18, 2023 00:33
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I expect that if you tried to use a belt sander to remove paint, you'd just gum up the belt really quickly.
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Feb 18, 2023 01:39
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Don't make the mistake I did... don't decide to pressure wash the deck after sanding to clean all the crap off it. You'll just raise the grain of the wood and have to sand it all again.
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Feb 18, 2023 01:40
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why does my furnace sometimes make a higher pitched tone? i hear it when I first turn up the temp after I wake up. But later in the day, when it turns on I don't hear it at all. edit: ok i took a video, you can hear it pretty clearly halfway through https://i.imgur.com/aIUy7F6.mp4 actionjackson fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 18, 2023 |
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Feb 18, 2023 19:14
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I'm probably going to be using Spax powerlags to bulk up and strengthen a few sections of my joists where I'm replacing the subfloor, but the following wording has me confused: "When reinforcing joists, it’s important to sister the joists no less than 48" on center sandwiching the compromised joist. Using SPAX PowerLags on a staggered pattern every 12" is the most secure way to repair a joist. I'm just a bit confused by the bold wording in here. Also, I keep seeing different terms for the same thing: Sister, scabbing, trimmers, etc for attaching wood to the side of a joist. What are the differences?
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Feb 19, 2023 03:52
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I just got mostly done with removing my old bathroom exhaust fan and installing a new one. Two questions: The previous installer mangled the drywall hole and patched their work with some sort of drywall compound and mesh tape, all this was sorta glued to the previous unit so I had to cut it away. Should I replace like with like here, or would it be fine to seal the 1/4-1/2" gaps with fireblock foam? From the underside the small gap is covered by the fan cover so it's not a matter of looks. Also I taped the exhaust duct to the fan unit with 3M aluminum foil tape but the attachment point is plastic so it doesn't seem to stick as well as it does to metal, should I put more tape on wrapped from the ducting all the way to the metal body of the fan unit? (picture below for clarity) 
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Feb 20, 2023 00:22
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tangy yet delightful posted:I just got mostly done with removing my old bathroom exhaust fan and installing a new one. Two questions: I'd consider putting a rigid metal elbow in there. The bend radius on that flex ducting doesn't look particularly great. For the plastic->duct transition, what I've done is get a couple zipties to hold it on, then put some self-tapping screws right behind the zipties so there's no way they can fall off. That tape should stick pretty well if the surfaces were clean.
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Feb 20, 2023 01:56
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devicenull posted:I'd consider putting a rigid metal elbow in there. The bend radius on that flex ducting doesn't look particularly great. I was on the fence about it, and probably should have posed it as a question already, so thanks for the input. I'll grab this 4" 90 degree elbow along with the other stuff I need probably tomorrow and give it a better flow path.
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Feb 20, 2023 04:38
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I’d suggest putting a worm clamp over the taped joining of the duct and exhaust outlet for added security. Also devicenull’s suggestion of a rigid elbow is a good idea. But bear in mind that most exhaust fans have design specifications that advise against elbows placed so close to the exhaust outlet. My Panasonic Whisper fan for example recommends 2-3 feet of straight run before an elbow, or else the fan detects excessive air pressure and shuts itself off automatically. But then again that 2-3 foot spacing might not be a luxury that you have. In that case I’d just put the elbow in, any way.
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Feb 20, 2023 15:57
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melon cat posted:I’d suggest putting a worm clamp over the taped joining of the duct and exhaust outlet for added security. I have a whirlpool OTR microwave that advertises 400 CFM airflow at max speed, with a 90* elbow about 18” from the outlet and a couple more downstream. Never had a problem with excessive back-pressure, for what it’s worth. Big difference between 18” and 6”, though.
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Feb 20, 2023 16:07
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Lawnie posted:I have a whirlpool OTR microwave that advertises 400 CFM airflow at max speed, with a 90* elbow about 18” from the outlet and a couple more downstream. Never had a problem with excessive back-pressure, for what it’s worth. Big difference between 18” and 6”, though.
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Feb 20, 2023 16:32
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The install instructions have multiple setup diagrams that show 90s right away being fine so I guess this particular model doesn't have that issue.
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Feb 20, 2023 18:15
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JediTalentAgent posted:I'm probably going to be using Spax powerlags to bulk up and strengthen a few sections of my joists where I'm replacing the subfloor, but the following wording has me confused: Just to get the ball rolling: The bolded above reads to me like two sisters at least 48" long on either side of the compromised joist, but I'm not a fan of such general guidance when it comes to structural framing, especially when it's coming from a marketing dept. How bad are the joists to be sistered? What's the span? Where in the span is the joist compromised? What sort of load are they supporting?
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Feb 20, 2023 18:46
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Stain came out even, thanks
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Feb 23, 2023 01:00
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I rent an first floor/basement 2 story unit that has a very specific minor flooding issue I’d like to solve. There’s a gangway on the side that splits in two - a concrete divider wall separates our building from the basement front door to our south. On our side there’s a drain slightly below grade, about 6 inches in diameter with holes roughly double the radius of a pencil eraser. The flooding issue only happens in absolutely torrential rain, where you get like a half inch in 5-10 minutes. I’ve seen rain sheeting off the back of the roof of the south building, which then disturbs the top soil in the backyard, which then flows with the water out of the backyard, down the gangway, and drains out of our drain. This extra sediment ends up blocking our drain, and enough water pools that it rises over the edge of the concrete, soaks past a ~1x2 wood lining along the edge of the building, and seeps down the side and into our basement floor. If I just sweep a bit during the heaviest rain, the sediment mixes enough to easily drain but I’m tired of doing that and it won’t stop it if it’s overnight. So how can I fix this? Couple of ides spring to mind: seal the wood on the edge of the building with waterproof caulk, modify the drain to handle sediment better, add some sort of mesh screen upstream of where the water pools to keep sediment from blocking the drain. But I figured y’all might have some solid ideas on how to approach this.
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Feb 23, 2023 02:07
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Enderzero posted:I rent an first floor/basement 2 story unit that has a very specific minor flooding issue Contact your landlord, this is their problem. Even "minor" flooding can potentially cause a ton of damage, but literally none of it is your responsibility because you don't own the property.
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Feb 23, 2023 02:41
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FogHelmut posted:Stain came out even, thanks
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Feb 23, 2023 04:54
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i like nice words
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How am I supposed to get a nice loop on this brand new fancy outdoor GFCI outlet?  Taken before I flipped the loop to clockwise. But these screws have a captive nut inside the housing. They don’t stand out as you unscrew them, and the plastic surround doesn’t have any clearance above the screw to slip the wire through. There weren’t any other in stock options other than this brand, either.
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Feb 23, 2023 14:14
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mr.belowaverage posted:How am I supposed to get a nice loop on this brand new fancy outdoor GFCI outlet? Struggle and swear. My local store also only ahs these sometimes and it's a huge pain in the dick. Like they want you to burn your house down with backstabs. I generally hold them with the screw pointing down then sit there and struggle and swear, or use a small screwdriver to keep pressure on it to get the wire in.
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Feb 23, 2023 15:23
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Expose at least twice the length of copper that you have. Bend it around in a loop with a long tail. bend the loop so that it is at an angle (like a spoon to its handle) and slip it over the screw. In the alternative that may be a clamp-style connector, and the clamp plate is not rising with the screw. In such case, loosen the screw all the way & gently pry the clamp up with a narrow screwdriver (or fork tine)to get the wire under it. Third option is to back the screw all the way out (you will have to force it) and thread the screw through the loop & re-secure it.
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Feb 23, 2023 16:07
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Please list the amount of swear words you have used, in which order, and show either callouses or bloody fingertips. We will let you know where in the incantation you have made an error. I do the expose too much, make a half loop, force it around, then correct with needle nose and snip excess method above. Plus the obvious incantations.
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Feb 23, 2023 16:44
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Last I installed one of those I had to hold it upside down while screwing as the clamp or whatever had come loose and wouldn't catch at all otherwise.
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Feb 23, 2023 18:47
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H110Hawk posted:Please list the amount of swear words you have used, in which order, and show either callouses or bloody fingertips. We will let you know where in the incantation you have made an error. Usually it's something like unscrew terminal and find that they dont' stay out.. gently caress.. it's one of these pieces of poo poo, why the gently caress do they make these pieces of poo poo like this, why did I buy this poo poo.. gently caress me. I'd pay the extra penny to not deal with this loving bullshit.. grab wires and turn by hand.. poke finger.. DAMNIT, MOTHER FUCKER! Turn upsideodwn and try again.. FUCKER GO IN, WHY.. I HATE YOU there's now blood on the wire.. it goes in after some fiddling and wiggling Maybe the blood is the secret?
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Feb 23, 2023 20:00
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tater_salad posted:Maybe the blood is the secret? The ancient secret of construction projects is revealed to us all in time.
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Feb 23, 2023 20:11
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how do I easily get this out? I was able to turn it a bit with a 2mm hex, but obviously it doesn't fit those little openings on all six sides. and because it's jammed in the corner, it's a huge pain in the rear end to get any leverage
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Feb 23, 2023 20:24
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Get a torx bit or hex bit for a driver and an extension. One of those zillion in one kits with extension is a really valuable thing in the toolbox for this exact moment. And also putting together ikea furniture. If you're desperate and have an extra allen key of appropriate size + keyless/keyed chuck drill then saw/bolt cutter off the angle, knock off the edges, and put it in your drill.  (I doubt it would reach unfortunately.)
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Feb 23, 2023 20:30
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is that a torx plus? i think so because it has six of those little bump-outs https://www.mcmaster.com/torx-bits/for-drive-style~torx-plus/driver-style~l-key/
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Feb 23, 2023 20:47
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actionjackson posted:how do I easily get this out? I was able to turn it a bit with a 2mm hex, but obviously it doesn't fit those little openings on all six sides. and because it's jammed in the corner, it's a huge pain in the rear end to get any leverage A torx bit is the best bet, but you can go down in contact points on the driver in relation to the screw if you're desperate. So a small square bit may work by making contact with 4/6 of the points, or a small flat bit may work as well by making contact with 2 points, with some potential damage to the screw. It's common in some assembly industries (like trailers) to use torx screws with square bits drivers. The bit is more robust, and engages easier in the screw.
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Feb 23, 2023 21:41
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i decided to just say gently caress it and be stubborn. it was something where the drawer was just barely misaligned, maybe 2 mm
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Feb 23, 2023 23:05
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PainterofCrap posted:Expose at least twice the length of copper that you have. This is kinda my usual method. The problem with this device, is the gap between the screw and the plastic is smaller than the wire thickness. I ended up with a loop that was too wide, kinda jammed it into the gap point-first, rotated it so it was under the screw, then tried to close the loop with a small flathead. Takes 2 minutes instead of two seconds quote:Third option is to back the screw all the way out (you will have to force it) and thread the screw through the loop & re-secure it. Yeah the captive nut under the contact plate is loose inside, plus there is some element that stops it from unthreading all the way out without excessive force. Then you can try your luck holding it upside down and trying to catch the threads to screw it back in. I just don’t see how this design made it out of prototype
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Feb 24, 2023 06:43
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Aren't those the OK kind of receptacles to use rear wire spots on? It looks like the ones where they're held in by the screw rather than a lovely spring.
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Feb 24, 2023 14:06
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Hulk smash
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Feb 24, 2023 14:11
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So a lightbulb burned out in a room here and when I opened the fixture, it turned out it had this behind it: It also had a piece of foil of the same shape that I guess used to be glued to it but by the time I found it nothing was holding it there but the light bulb itself. As I understand it, this is insulation to keep the heat of the bulb from burning the wiring inside the fixture. The bulb in there was a halogen bulb, real old, if I'm replacing it with an LED bulb do I even need to bother with replacing this foam piece? Also, now that I'm looking behind where it was, it looks like this:  What am I looking at on the light wire, it looks like the insulation on it has somehow rusted and cracked? Should this whole thing be replaced?
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Feb 24, 2023 18:01
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