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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
i have decided to nip the ND body roll in the bud a bit before i put too many more miles on and get used to it. was considering flyin miata's swaybar kit. Is this one day driveway install tier stuff? I think so but want to make sure i dont get trapped with "oh you gotta drop the motor to install this" type gotchas. Also do I need an alignment afterwards or nah?

edit: i'm an idiot, didnt see they have install instructions online. i'm good.

edit2: poo poo, i gotta get these wheel locks off first. didnt ask the dealer about a key bc i didnt notice

Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Feb 28, 2023

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Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice
The front swaybar removal and install process on an ND is a bit involved, but definitely doable in a day, especially if you’ve got a friend to help manage the front bar and remove it. It took me a weekend but i wasn’t working too fast on it.

You don’t need an alignment after doing a swaybar install.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

The front sway (ND) is a pain; it's not that big of a job but trying to weave the bars thru was one of the more difficult installs i've had. I think Flyin Maita has re-done their instructions since a few years ago but I went mostly with this method: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=709333

I couldn't fish the OG bar out so I sawzall'd it. In addition to the steps in link above I loosened some radiator bolts to give me ~1cm of clearance needed at the front of the car to to fit the FM bar in (probably could've got the oem bar out this way but didn't see it at the time). There's some good yotube guide videos too. Helps to have a another person when fishing the bars thru unless you can get full body under the front. It's the single best upgrade to this car; you'll love it.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Is the flyin Miata sway bar set the one to go with? I should probably install them on my ND.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

SpartanIvy posted:

Is the flyin Miata sway bar set the one to go with? I should probably install them on my ND.

If you're competitive at auto X or will track the car regularly then go with the Karcepts (and get the subframe reinforcement). Just occasional performance & street driving the FM bars are perfect; I added the Fox coilovers a little later and it's a nice balanced set-up, not full on racecar, still comfortable but quite capable.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
I was thinking about doing flyinmiata sway bars to my stock NA that I use for light canyon use/weekend errands, so this is a timely question. Anyone have experience with the driving feel before/after adding? (I have a '92 so would need the NA6 chassis ones, I believe).

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Virgil Vox posted:

If you're competitive at auto X or will track the car regularly then go with the Karcepts (and get the subframe reinforcement). Just occasional performance & street driving the FM bars are perfect; I added the Fox coilovers a little later and it's a nice balanced set-up, not full on racecar, still comfortable but quite capable.

The karcepts installation on the ND really seems like the easiest way to go, but I know with 100% certainty that switching to an adjustable endlink is going to clunk and piss me off.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Ether Frenzy posted:

I was thinking about doing flyinmiata sway bars to my stock NA that I use for light canyon use/weekend errands, so this is a timely question. Anyone have experience with the driving feel before/after adding? (I have a '92 so would need the NA6 chassis ones, I believe).

I did a Whiteline front after hacking out the chassis rails and mount points for the original one. Bar had to be tweaked and I'm running it on the stiffest setting and it's good, as it has the original rear it has removed some of the rear's tendency to step out. Been hurling it into corners and it seems quite happy. Waiting for it to dry up before I really press it.

*edit: NB this is.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

MetaJew posted:

The karcepts installation on the ND really seems like the easiest way to go, but I know with 100% certainty that switching to an adjustable endlink is going to clunk and piss me off.

Could replace the spherical/heim endlinks with balljoint style ones then there'd be no clunk

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
The karcept bar + end links haven’t driven me up a wall.

The pagid pads squeaking like mad are probably helping

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008

Ether Frenzy posted:

I was thinking about doing flyinmiata sway bars to my stock NA that I use for light canyon use/weekend errands, so this is a timely question. Anyone have experience with the driving feel before/after adding? (I have a '92 so would need the NA6 chassis ones, I believe).

If you're still using stock springs or slightly stiffer, FM bars would be good for street/occasional track. My NB had FM bars on it when I bought it and they worked just fine, very universal. I'm actually using them now on the Volkzda and they work fantastic because of the added weight of the body and glass up high, especially in the rear. If you want to go more performance oriented the general consensus is to use a bigger front bar and stock rear.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
I just had a (somewhat) hard time starting the NB after driving and parking it at the store while shopping. It always starts after a few revolutions but this time it didn't and I let off the key as my muscle memory is trained to by this point. Waited a few seconds and then kept the key on start longer, and it eventually started, but was a bit rough coming up to idle RPMs. Then idled and ran perfectly fine. The scanner isn't showing anything weird. Has anyone ran into this?


Otherwise, spring is kind-of here so,

Elysium
Aug 21, 2003
It is by will alone I set my mind in motion.

mobby_6kl posted:

I just had a (somewhat) hard time starting the NB after driving and parking it at the store while shopping. It always starts after a few revolutions but this time it didn't and I let off the key as my muscle memory is trained to by this point. Waited a few seconds and then kept the key on start longer, and it eventually started, but was a bit rough coming up to idle RPMs. Then idled and ran perfectly fine. The scanner isn't showing anything weird. Has anyone ran into this?

My NB had an issue that after driving it for a while, then parking it for a bit and getting some heatsoak, it wouldn’t start up at all until it had cooled off. Turned out to be a $10 part that just sucks and gets hosed up from heatsoak. Easiest one bolt replacement ever and I’ve never had that problem since.

I think it was this part: https://www.carparts.com/details/Ma...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Elysium posted:

My NB had an issue that after driving it for a while, then parking it for a bit and getting some heatsoak, it wouldn’t start up at all until it had cooled off. Turned out to be a $10 part that just sucks and gets hosed up from heatsoak. Easiest one bolt replacement ever and I’ve never had that problem since.

I think it was this part: https://www.carparts.com/details/Ma...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds
The link doesn't work for me because of GDPR bullshit or something but is that the camshaft position sensor? I've replaced it already a few years ago and it fixed the issue where it would just die in the middle of driving during hot weather. It was also still pretty cold outside so I'm thinking that's probably not it.

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
Same thing happened to my friends NB a few years ago, she replaced the camshaft position sensor with a cheap one and it failed in a few days, got the oem and its been perfect ever since.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost

Olympic Mathlete posted:

I did a Whiteline front after hacking out the chassis rails and mount points for the original one. Bar had to be tweaked and I'm running it on the stiffest setting and it's good, as it has the original rear it has removed some of the rear's tendency to step out. Been hurling it into corners and it seems quite happy. Waiting for it to dry up before I really press it.

*edit: NB this is.


Joe Mama posted:

If you're still using stock springs or slightly stiffer, FM bars would be good for street/occasional track. My NB had FM bars on it when I bought it and they worked just fine, very universal. I'm actually using them now on the Volkzda and they work fantastic because of the added weight of the body and glass up high, especially in the rear. If you want to go more performance oriented the general consensus is to use a bigger front bar and stock rear.

Thanks friends, always nice to get some real life experience/feedback on these changes since I've definitely gone the route of "whoops now it's a race car and sucks on the street" in cars I've "upgraded" in my younger days, and after some time of driving actually good cars instead of "upgraded" shitboxes and getting older I'm no longer really that interested in a rougher suspension than what an E92 M3 will give you on the softest setting.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
anybody got a line on OEM style wind deflectors for the ND? I want to buy a second one and definitely won't be attempting to etch a kpop band logo into it and edge lighting it

Found a couple of options but each one seems to have a little flaw or issue or screw you gotta install

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Jonny 290 posted:

anybody got a line on OEM style wind deflectors for the ND? I want to buy a second one and definitely won't be attempting to etch a kpop band logo into it and edge lighting it

Found a couple of options but each one seems to have a little flaw or issue or screw you gotta install

https://ankhasport.com/products/wind-deflector

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Voltage posted:

Same thing happened to my friends NB a few years ago, she replaced the camshaft position sensor with a cheap one and it failed in a few days, got the oem and its been perfect ever since.
I got a Mitsubishi one which I think was the OEM for it anyway, but I'll keep an eye on it an we'll see. No issues on the last drive.



Someone on the miata reddit did a road trip to Algeria in NBs. I've actually had a tour through Spain-Morocco-Algeria on my list for years now but it's a huge trip so I never really got to it. Looks incredible though.



Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Looks like the drive from LA to Phoenix except for the slow cars are actually in the right lane.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
vanity plates came in, the gods smiled



(if you recall i'm also a ham radio dude, so it's two jokes in one)

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost
You could also install solar panels on roofs and hit a trifecta.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
First paycheck at new jobs means time to dump money into a perfectly good car!

FM swaybars ordered.

e: are we still just hammering a blown out socket on to wheel locks we didn't get the keys for? i'll order a replacement set but not sure if these were Mazda factory or just aftermarket whatever

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Thinking of selling my 996 for an ND2 but I haven’t looked at the market lately - what are they going for these days? I know it’s the wrong time of year to buy :-/ Wondering if I can find a club or GT in low 20s

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
imo no way, unless you're ok with picking up a stanced repo. i did 33.5 for my 2020, i've seen some down in the 25-27 range but they were high miles or had questionable poo poo bolted on

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I paid $33k for a CPO 2021 RF GT with somewhere around 8k miles. I bought it in December 2021.

You may be able to find 2022 models on dealer lots for a good deal. My friend just bought a 2022 GT soft top in white with terra cotta interior from Roger Beasley South in Austin. I forget what price he told me he paid, but the financing was something silly like 0.5% APR.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
My '92 NA's roof is finally giving up the ghost, the clouded plastic window just split when I put the roof down last and it's had two or three holes develop in the last 6 months that got patched but clearly it's time to make an actual fix.

What's the recommended replacement and how much should it cost to put on?

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
I was driving home last night well after dark. I was on the interstate and came up on a scene where there were 2 to 3 cars with hazards on on the right shoulder and one car with hazards on on the left shoulder. I had let off the gas and had slowed to about 55mpm when I got near them and didn't see what I think was a ladder laying across the road. I couldn't steer around it due to the vehicles on the shoulder so I caught it with both my right tires. There was a big bump, and after 500 more feet TPMS lit up so I took the next exit and found both my right side tires had blown out and that both my right wheels were slightly bent.

I got her towed home and went this morning and got two new tires mounted (the dents weren't bad enough to keep them from balancing and holding air, fortunately.

I put both of the new tires on the rear, and didn't see any suspension damage when I was jacking the car up and down on three corners.

And maybe I'm just paranoid, and maybe these different tires have a real different feel to them, but the car seems really squirrelly in the back end, I've got a feel like it's going to kick out even at low speed turns. Everything is fine under acceleration and deceleration, just when turning, it's like I'm driving on beach balls. I guess I'll take it by an alignment shop tomorrow or get somebody to throw it up on a lift.

Anybody ever seen something like this before?

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006


Ether Frenzy posted:

My '92 NA's roof is finally giving up the ghost, the clouded plastic window just split when I put the roof down last and it's had two or three holes develop in the last 6 months that got patched but clearly it's time to make an actual fix.

What's the recommended replacement and how much should it cost to put on?

I've been entirely happy with the Robbins top that local Miata specialist Immortan Auto installed for me. I bought it a couple years back, before inflation kicked in, so I don't know current pricing. The job is fiddly, so be warned it might be a long day, or an expensive labor bill.

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006

tactlessbastard posted:



Anybody ever seen something like this before?

This sounds like a wheel or both could be bent and probably has a good wobble side to side.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


it's almost get miata out time!!!!
ordered up new pads and rotors, rear slide pins and boots since my rear brake feels like it's hanging. Avoiding having to get rear calipers as theyr'e like $100 per side which is 2x the cost of the front ones.
Also up on deck for when I get back from vacation.. new wheel and seals for top since front ones leak when driving in the rain.
After that it's clutch time. I'm debating the F1 lightened flywheel but some have said they're not built to great tolerance and murder the pilot bearing if not done perfectly.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

tactlessbastard posted:

Anybody ever seen something like this before?

Could be any number of things, but my wild guess would be a broken sway bar link.

Probably something boring like "thing bent now alignment is off" though.

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

rowebot44 posted:

This sounds like a wheel or both could be bent and probably has a good wobble side to side.

It doesn't seem that bad a bend, idk



I don't see anything clearly broken, but there's hail tonight so I'm going to leave it in the barn until I can get it to a shop on my next day off.

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006


tactlessbastard posted:

It doesn't seem that bad a bend, idk



I don't see anything clearly broken, but there's hail tonight so I'm going to leave it in the barn until I can get it to a shop on my next day off.



Are the tires holding pressure? If they are, my gut would be more worried about the suspension than the wheels.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost

Zorak of Michigan posted:

I've been entirely happy with the Robbins top that local Miata specialist Immortan Auto installed for me. I bought it a couple years back, before inflation kicked in, so I don't know current pricing. The job is fiddly, so be warned it might be a long day, or an expensive labor bill.

Thanks, looks like there's more options than I expected for fabric style/fitment over rollbars, etc. Looks like ~$800-1000 for the top itself + accessories and crap.

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
Tires holding pressure fine.

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006

tactlessbastard posted:

It doesn't seem that bad a bend, idk




I bent a set of 6ULs like that and the drum was not true to the hub anymore. It would present overstear the same way you describe and the rear grip was not consistent. When you have the car up next see if the wheel wobbles left to right.

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

tater_salad posted:

it's almost get miata out time!!!!
ordered up new pads and rotors, rear slide pins and boots since my rear brake feels like it's hanging. Avoiding having to get rear calipers as theyr'e like $100 per side which is 2x the cost of the front ones.
Also up on deck for when I get back from vacation.. new wheel and seals for top since front ones leak when driving in the rain.
After that it's clutch time. I'm debating the F1 lightened flywheel but some have said they're not built to great tolerance and murder the pilot bearing if not done perfectly.

I drove the miata to work today top down bud! Doesnt matter that it was 50°, as long as the suns out!

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost

Zorak of Michigan posted:

I've been entirely happy with the Robbins top that local Miata specialist Immortan Auto installed for me. I bought it a couple years back, before inflation kicked in, so I don't know current pricing. The job is fiddly, so be warned it might be a long day, or an expensive labor bill.

I'm likely going to get this unless anyone has any reservations about this product -- https://mossmiata.com/909-471-cp-panorama-canvas-window-convertible-tops-by-robbins, the panorama back window seems slightly more useful than the regular but then again I've always parked it "by feel" Lamborghini Countach style if the roof has to be up, and barely need the rear window since it was pretty much clouded to poo poo when I bought the car. I live in SoCal and the car is based outside in the sun half the day due to pecking order, so I'm debating about getting a glass window to keep it from clouding, however I see people complaining that the glass window can fall out of the glue/stitching more easily and I don't need that hassle and I've learned that the fabric will fail at some point anyhow. I'd rather it be slightly cloudy than cause me deeper problems, and this original top lasted 70k miles/since 1992.

So maybe I should look at the original OEM top? I've got body shop buddies who can get me OEM stuff from the dealers cheaper than list but that piece is $1294 or something for laymen. Not sure if that's necessary... I paid $3800 for the entire car!

I also have driven the car literally once in 6 years with the roof up so buying a zip-down rear window seems unnecessary, and adding glass that could break/fall out of the glue/whatever plus add 9 ounces to a car that's already a Superleggera model (no AC, no anything) seems sort of questionable.

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Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Of course now that I've discovered there's a dark blue option: https://robbinsautotop.com/convertible-tops-416/mazda-438/mazda-miata-1990-2005-top-complete-2965
The car is Silverstone Mica with 13" steelie wheels (silver) and has the greyish-blue Mazda cloth seats.

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