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I am looking for 0.045" dual shield mig wire, 110-120 ksi tensile strength. Big plus if it can run with 75/25 Ar/CO2. This is to weld 3/16" A514 quenched and tempered plate. I don't think this wire is too weird. Most of the big suppliers probably make something like it. For example: ESAB Dual Shield 110 Hobart FabCO 110 Lincoln UltraCore 111K3M-H Plus And yet, it is really goddamn hard to buy any of it. It does not seem to be for sale on the internet. You'd think this would be the kind of thing industrial supply sites would be all over. What is the welding equivalent of Digi-Key or McMaster-Carr? (No, it is not McMaster-Carr.) Plus I will need to buy a 33# spool, and respool the wire onto smaller 11# reels that will fit into my hobbyist machine. (BTW, is that going to be a disaster with flux core, or is it pretty sturdy?) I feel like I am doing something wrong. Why is it so hard to buy this crap? e: oh wait maybe the magic word is "E111T1-K3M" That led me to Lincoln Pipeliner 111M which looks very promising and is even available in 10# spools. Holy poo poo! ryanrs fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 27, 2023 |
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Feb 27, 2023 06:41
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Anyone have a link to a crash course in professional heat treating? Specifically a2, d2, m2, s7, tool steels etc and how to minimize them growing or shrinking in that process. Not how to do it myself but what to request when sending parts out to a professional shop.
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Feb 28, 2023 04:44
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Is there a technique I can apply that yields the same result as using a contour Gauge, without needing to go buy one. I have a double ended piece that's gonna be notched on both ends to connect two other offset pieces, connected at an angle, kind of like a roll cage. Only thing I can think of is paper template + trial and error Contour gauge is perfect tool to 3D print, but has so many parts would take a week to print
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Mar 1, 2023 12:30
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Hadlock posted:Is there a technique I can apply that yields the same result as using a contour Gauge, without needing to go buy one. I have a double ended piece that's gonna be notched on both ends to connect two other offset pieces, connected at an angle, kind of like a roll cage. Only thing I can think of is paper template + trial and error I saw a poo poo post where someone made a contour gauge from corrugated cardboard and toothpicks. Might work for a one off.
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Mar 1, 2023 14:51
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Do you need to sort out what it is in position or make it line up to something pre-designed? If pre-designed make a template that wraps around the joint, unroll it, and print a 1:1 drawing. Cut it out and tape it on. Probably sheet metal tools in CAD software would be my starting point.
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Mar 1, 2023 15:43
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Contour gauges are one of the primary things where I see people endlessly messing around to save $10 once.
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Mar 1, 2023 15:46
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honda whisperer posted:Anyone have a link to a crash course in professional heat treating? ASTM - ISO standards both kind of focus on the nomenclature, hardness depth, where to measure, etc, and not much on the dimensional side of it. The ISO standard doesn't mention shrinkage/warpage at all (ISO15787). My typical work flow is call out the critical hardness, measurements, and add notes about warpage size. Then it's usually a phone call to the HT supplier and we discuss specifics.
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Mar 1, 2023 15:57
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Yeah I've deviated so far from the CAD at this point I'd spend more time remeasuring everything in the computer than the alternatives And yeah I'm not opposed to spending the $10 it's just that it's a toss up between time wasted driving to the nearest store (which is out of the way) vs loving around with paper templates and scissors and tape for four tiny things The cardboard isn't a terrible idea I might give that a shot. The gauge only needs to be about 3" deep and 2" wide
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Mar 1, 2023 17:33
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I've got some heatshrink toolholders to set up, but our induction machine is currently not usable. Has anyone here used a blowtorch for heatshrink tooling? Is there anything in particular to know beyond trying to evenly distribute the heat? Can I use a standard propane/butane torch, or do I need to go for MAPP gas? Just checking since the toolholders are rather expensive!
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Mar 1, 2023 18:23
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Hadlock posted:Yeah I've deviated so far from the CAD at this point I'd spend more time remeasuring everything in the computer than the alternatives Depending on geometry: can you hold a ruler next to the part, take a good photo, and then trace it in photoshop or illustrator or mspaint? Exactly how accurate do you need to be (as accurate as a toothpick & cardboard contour gauge?)
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Mar 2, 2023 00:07
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Karia posted:I've got some heatshrink toolholders to set up, but our induction machine is currently not usable. Has anyone here used a blowtorch for heatshrink tooling? Is there anything in particular to know beyond trying to evenly distribute the heat? Can I use a standard propane/butane torch, or do I need to go for MAPP gas? Just checking since the toolholders are rather expensive! I use one of these for my heat shrink holders: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C70G7Y8 supplied by one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075K1SQ44 Works great but is quite a bit slower than one of the real units. Doesn't work for HSS tools but carbide is fine. Gives nice even heat. I have use a standard propane torch as well but put the tool holder in the lathe and spun it at low rpm when heating.
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Mar 2, 2023 00:12
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Ruler CAD is a good idea. Accuracy needs to be on average 1/8" or closer, can go up to a quarter inch on some handful of egregious fitting errors. I'm getting pretty good at bandaiding my fitment errors with flux core treating it like a more permanent hot glue gun 
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Mar 2, 2023 04:14
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Karia posted:I've got some heatshrink toolholders to set up, but our induction machine is currently not usable. Has anyone here used a blowtorch for heatshrink tooling? Is there anything in particular to know beyond trying to evenly distribute the heat? Can I use a standard propane/butane torch, or do I need to go for MAPP gas? Just checking since the toolholders are rather expensive! Is MAPP gas even still available?
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Mar 2, 2023 18:04
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You can buy MAPP on amazon? Pretty sure my local ACE had it when I went in there last
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Mar 2, 2023 18:56
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Hadlock posted:You can buy MAPP on amazon? Pretty sure my local ACE had it when I went in there last There is something in a yellow can called MAP/Pro. It's not MAPP.
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Mar 2, 2023 18:59
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I was curious this is what I found MAPP gas: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SIEVERT-14-1-oz-MAPP-Gas-Cylinder-1-in-Valve-No-Regulator-Required-221197/318912570#overlay Safety Data Sheet: https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/3a/3a2adc69-ed2d-4f70-bb8c-91ec4a703700.pdf Composition/information on ingredients Propene 100% flame temperature of up to 4175°F MAP/Pro: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-Bernzomatic-14-1-oz-Map-Pro-Hand-Torch-Fuel-Cylinder-332477/203226566 Safety Data Sheet https://images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/77/7799980f-17cc-4ff9-af62-c8dc0178bbde.pdf Composition/information on ingredients: Substances: Propylene 99.5 - 100 Impurities Propane 0 - 0.5% Flame temperature in air of 3,730° F / 2054.4° C
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Mar 2, 2023 19:16
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Propene and propylene are synonyms. That's the new stuff that isn't as good. It's got a carbon-carbon double bond and doesn't burn as hot as real MAPP. Original MAPP, which you can't get anymore, had propyne. Propyne has a carbon-carbon triple bond, like acetylene, and burns almost as hot.
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Mar 2, 2023 20:06
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MAPP was cool, but if you really need a flame that hot on a regular basis, you might as well just get an oxyacetylene rig. It's fine.
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Mar 2, 2023 20:25
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Why did they stop making legit mapp? Sone sort of lib-cuck conspiracy?
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Mar 3, 2023 01:32
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wesleywillis posted:Why did they stop making legit mapp? The only plant that made it closed in 2008. https://cen.acs.org/articles/86/i7/Quebecs-Petromont-Shut-Down.html Seems like the plant that made it was overall unprofitable and I'd guess MAPP was sort of a sideline/byproduct there. I guess it didn't make financial sense to start up a whole new line at an operational plant.
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Mar 3, 2023 01:49
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It was only useful as a fuel for small scale work like plumbers and jewelers and only useful as a reagent at extremely high purity for the pharma industry. No big industrial demand for the rest of us to ride the coattails of because anyone needing those temps at scale just bought an acetylene rig. You can still get the pharma grade stuff if you don't mind paying $4/gram
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Mar 3, 2023 02:38
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I had my friend do the brazing when I hooked up my air conditioner and he had a small single cylinder of something he used, looked like the little acetylene tanks. He said he used to use mapp just for the portability and the new stuff didn't work as well. I'll have to ask him what kind of gas it was.
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Mar 3, 2023 16:11
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SpeedFreek posted:I had my friend do the brazing when I hooked up my air conditioner and he had a small single cylinder of something he used, looked like the little acetylene tanks. He said he used to use mapp just for the portability and the new stuff didn't work as well. I'll have to ask him what kind of gas it was. Probably air-acetylene. That's what most of the HVAC people around here are using these days.
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Mar 3, 2023 16:17
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SpeedFreek posted:I had my friend do the brazing when I hooked up my air conditioner and he had a small single cylinder of something he used, looked like the little acetylene tanks. He said he used to use mapp just for the portability and the new stuff didn't work as well. I'll have to ask him what kind of gas it was. I'd guess Map/pro.
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Mar 3, 2023 21:32
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Thought about this some more and realized you only need a contour gauge when making templates where the end mating surfaces aren't right angles. Realized I'm just really dumb about templates. Created some, uh right angle end templates, taped them to the main frame, then taped a bigger connecting piece to connect the ends together, and then traced the stock over the template.  I did bird's mouth cuts on both ends of the bits on the right, the one at the back right has a single birds mouth and then the rest were more simple flat angles. Everything is spaced weirdly and at different angles because I'm trying to fit the supports around the engine in a kind of cramped space. Still a work in progress. Neat learning how to build life sized stuff in three dimensions but I'm very slow struggling through reasoning how to build this from scratch. Once I figure it out the subsequent ones go a lot faster.
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Mar 5, 2023 01:43
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drat that's a really overbuilt 3D printer filament reel holder
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Mar 5, 2023 01:52
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I'm testing out some extremely high tensile strength filaments
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Mar 5, 2023 02:16
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Sometimes when something breaks, especially at the wrong time, you might go a little overboard in making sure it never happens again.
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Mar 5, 2023 14:57
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In reality 1) apparently it's really popular to race these on smaller vineyard/orchard grounds, using the (mostly unmaintained) service roads as a race track, AND it's a live rear axle meaning the suspension is the frame, and if the frame flexes between the engine mount and axle the chain will come off. very common problem on these karts with undersupported rear subframes 2) the differential is two halves bolted together, is not structural so you need two support points for each half shaft on either side of the diff and perhaps most importantly 3) I have about 8' left of 1x3" rectangular tubing and no other plans for it also 4) it's 16 gauge (0.060") thin wall tubing so it's not nearly as stout (nor as heavy) as it looks. It's a little thicker than fender sheet metal but only barely. Common thickness for this tubing is 14ga (0.083") which weighs about 30% more
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Mar 5, 2023 20:29
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I have an opportunity to collect some 80 cu ft cylinders that have been sitting waiting for pickup by airgas for 6+ years. Does the color of the cylinder matter when swapping them for a full cylinder of a different gas? They were used for 99.9999% helium and are not green or blue like the rest of my tanks.
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Mar 8, 2023 02:20
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SpeedFreek posted:I have an opportunity to collect some 80 cu ft cylinders that have been sitting waiting for pickup by airgas for 6+ years. Does the color of the cylinder matter when swapping them for a full cylinder of a different gas? They were used for 99.9999% helium and are not green or blue like the rest of my tanks. My experience is that my gas supplier won't trade any tanks they don't own. They also won't fill any tanks that look like they come from someone else. I have a tank from a supplier that went out of business that has been collecting dust for the last few years because I can't get rid of it.
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Mar 8, 2023 04:18
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So there's this broken old machine vise I'd like to repair and use on the drill press table which would be a huge upgrade over the current chinesium one if I can pull it off. One of the bolt hole tabs in the base is broken off, I don't have the missing piece. Don't know which kind of cast metal I''m dealing with, but let's assume it's cast iron. I have a MIG, a TIG/stick and oxyacetylene available. My best guess of how to proceed it is to make a new tab out of mild steel, buy the most suitable rod/flux I can find at the friendly local welding supply store that caters to amateurs (possibly Meltolit ES942 from googling) and try to braze it on, probably with the torch rather than the TIG. Do any of you knowledgeable people have a better/less dumb idea?
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Mar 8, 2023 05:57
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Why is 5/16 such a common bolt size? Is that sort of the "we definitely need 1/4", but that extra 1/16th of an inch gives us the safety margin where it's safely overkill"? Or is it just the minimum size where steel has a useful shock load and won't rust through in five years
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Mar 8, 2023 08:56
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Invalido posted:and try to braze it on, probably with the torch rather than the TIG. No, that's exactly what I would do as well. Hadlock posted:Why is 5/16 such a common bolt size? Is that sort of the "we definitely need 1/4", but that extra 1/16th of an inch gives us the safety margin where it's safely overkill"? Or is it just the minimum size where steel has a useful shock load and won't rust through in five years Odd question. I haven't noticed that there are significantly more 5/16" bolts than anything else. It's going to entirely depend on your context. If you are working on old American machine tools, for instance, maybe 5/16" is a common bolt size. But if you are a watchmaker it is not. Nor if you are a shipwright. Nor if you are doing anything with metric equipment (though 5/16 is almost exactly 8mm, coincidentally). There's nothing special about 5/16 that makes it have a "useful shock load" more than other bolts, or better corrosion resistance. You're just asking "is it that we definitely need the minimum strength, but a little extra strength is good?" and like, yes, absolutely that is true, that's a basic concept in engineering. But you could equivalently ask "why is 1/4-20 so common, is it just that 10-32 is the minimum strength and they want to have a little extra margin?" and it's still an unanswerable question without an idea of where these bolts are being used. There are also assembly and maintenance considerations. Maybe your machine has 10 places where strength requirements dictate a 5/16 bolt, three places that only need a 1/4, and one 9/32. An average engineer might spec those sizes and call it a day. A wise engineer might consider using 5/16 for everything, assuming the size and weight requirements allow it, so that you only have to stock one size of bolt in the assembly line and any maintainers only need one size of wrench. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 12:12 on Mar 8, 2023 |
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Mar 8, 2023 12:10
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My guess is that it's because a 5/16 bolt uses a 1/2 inch nut
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Mar 8, 2023 16:36
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Bolt selection is a science all it's own. The reason you should use a 5/16 instead of a 1/4 is because you need more strength to support a higher torque and clamp load. But sometimes the 1/4" bolt with the right strength is $5/ea and the 5/16 bolt with the strength is $1/ea.
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Mar 8, 2023 16:42
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Just don't use a 10-24.
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Mar 8, 2023 17:35
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Invalido posted:So there's this broken old machine vise I'd like to repair and use on the drill press table which would be a huge upgrade over the current chinesium one if I can pull it off. One of the bolt hole tabs in the base is broken off, I don't have the missing piece. Don't know which kind of cast metal I''m dealing with, but let's assume it's cast iron. Depends on how pretty or ugly it can look. One option is to just cut a length of threaded rod and weld it directly to the broken off stub, then put that through the hole on the bench and nut it from underneath. Another is to make a square plate with holes that align to the existing holes, make a new hole somewhere near the old stub, and then weld the plate to the base of the vise.
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Mar 9, 2023 00:56
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CommonShore posted:My guess is that it's because a 5/16 bolt uses a 1/2 inch nut Unless it's a flange bolt/nut  
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Mar 9, 2023 01:05
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Leperflesh posted:Depends on how pretty or ugly it can look. One option is to just cut a length of threaded rod and weld it directly to the broken off stub, then put that through the hole on the bench and nut it from underneath. Another is to make a square plate with holes that align to the existing holes, make a new hole somewhere near the old stub, and then weld the plate to the base of the vise. Function is everything in this case, I care little if any for pretty. The stub from where the tab was is useless so it's coming off regardless. I'm reluctant to weld cast iron unless I absolutely have to, but an alternative to brazing on a new tab would be to mill a clean surface on the side with the broken tab and drill/tap some holes into the body of the vise and bolt on an L-shaped bracket instead of a tab. Come to think of it I have some beefy square steel stock that could be milled into this and I wouldn't have to buy anything at all so maybe this is the easiest way forward. (also I have done very little brazing of any kind, and never in anything this substantial, or any cast iron at all so I'm not super confident in my abilities here) Symmetry between the holes that bolts the vice to the drill press table would be nice of course but not crucial. The vise is old and well used but it was bought dirt cheap since it's non-functional. Any repair that can put it back in service is fine, even if it's sort of destructive.
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Mar 9, 2023 13:23
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