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vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

Yeep posted:

Think about how you get up to speed at the start of an event. You can put out whatever power and cadence you want right from the beginning and the game gets you up to speed over time (faster if you're putting out more power). In the real world you can't go from zero to 400w/100rpm because your pedal rotations are directly tied to the movement of your wheel on tarmac. You get a similar effect every time you hit a hill or sprint it's just less obvious.

I still will never think about this in Zwift but yeah I get the original point being made now. Thanks goons.

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numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

decided to get my $100 Durraché C50 tubs glued up after i got a flat on the rear two years ago, ripped the sidewall with some unseen object otherwise i would try to some sealant. good thing i ordered 3 veloflex roubaix at the time. nothing like rolling on carbon tubs.

time change and shop starts group rides next week too. :woop:

numberoneposter fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 9, 2023

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

Decided it's time to upgrade my stock aksium wheels for something cooler looking (and lighter) so I've been looking at farsports offerings. Seems like you can either go custom through Wheelsfar vs branded Farsports - is either the preferred choice? I'm looking at either Kaze 35mm or a Farsports C3. Is there any benefit to the Farsports branded version over going with something like Kaze + DT240 EXP? I am getting a rim brake wheelset as I don't foresee upgrading my bike in near future to something with discs - I like the fit and am quite happy with my mechanical 105/Ultegra.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

paberu posted:

Decided it's time to upgrade my stock aksium wheels for something cooler looking (and lighter) so I've been looking at farsports offerings. Seems like you can either go custom through Wheelsfar vs branded Farsports - is either the preferred choice? I'm looking at either Kaze 35mm or a Farsports C3. Is there any benefit to the Farsports branded version over going with something like Kaze + DT240 EXP? I am getting a rim brake wheelset as I don't foresee upgrading my bike in near future to something with discs - I like the fit and am quite happy with my mechanical 105/Ultegra.

I'm assuming you're aware of the limitations/concerns of carbon rim brake tracks?

Personally I wouldn't buy any carbon rim brake wheels besides HEDs with their aluminum brake track, but I live somewhere with both hills and rain.

Bunny Fiesta
Apr 14, 2005
I'm doing my first outdoor 100 km ride with a local randonneuring group this weekend! Thanks to everyone in the thread for advice, and telling me I'm planning on bringing too much stuff.

(I'm still going to bring too much, but not too too much.)

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Bunny Fiesta posted:

I'm doing my first outdoor 100 km ride with a local randonneuring group this weekend! Thanks to everyone in the thread for advice, and telling me I'm planning on bringing too much stuff.

(I'm still going to bring too much, but not too too much.)

Woo have fun!

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

bicievino posted:

I'm assuming you're aware of the limitations/concerns of carbon rim brake tracks?

Yeah, I figure even though I live in hilly SoCal and do love to climb it shouldn't be an issue since I ride so infrequently. By the time I put in enough Km's in them I probably will already have another bike.

The Aksiums will stay as a backup wheel set if I need to ride in the wet or travel. I'll look up the HED's with the AL brake track too, thanks for the suggestion. Just looking at making my current go fast bike a really go fast bike for the few times I get to ride it.

paberu fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Mar 9, 2023

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

paberu posted:

Yeah, I figure even though I live in hilly SoCal and do love to climb it shouldn't be an issue since I ride so infrequently. By the time I put in enough Km's in them I probably will already have another bike.

The Aksiums will stay as a backup wheel set if I need to ride in the wet or travel. I'll look up the HED's with the AL brake track too, thanks for the suggestion. Just looking at making my current go fast bike a really go fast bike for the few times I get to ride it.

It's not so much concern about wearing it out from braking, as that even brand new you need to be mindful of the heating or you can explode your tubes.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

Bunny Fiesta posted:

I'm doing my first outdoor 100 km ride with a local randonneuring group this weekend! Thanks to everyone in the thread for advice, and telling me I'm planning on bringing too much stuff.

(I'm still going to bring too much, but not too too much.)

I did my first 100K last year, definitely carrying too much because it was an unsupported ride--totally solo. It was a great experience.

Have fun!

tildes
Nov 16, 2018
Is the Zwift hub supposed to feel more or less like riding a bike, or is it normal for it to sound louder/kind of grindy, esp in the smaller rings? I can’t tell if this is normal or not. I did get my LBS to set up the cassette on the hub to be the same as on my bike, but it definitely still doesn’t feel nearly as smooth as outside and I can’t tell if that’s just how these trainers are or not.

Overall this has convinced me that I like having the option to Zwift, but I am not sure if the Zwift hub is the one for me.

tildes fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Mar 10, 2023

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
Record a video of it and post via imgur

Jokerpilled Drudge
Jan 27, 2010

by Pragmatica

tildes posted:

Is the Zwift hub supposed to feel more or less like riding a bike, or is it normal for it to sound louder/kind of grindy, esp in the smaller rings? I can’t tell if this is normal or not. I did get my LBS to set up the cassette on the hub to be the same as on my bike, but it definitely still doesn’t feel nearly as smooth as outside and I can’t tell if that’s just how these trainers are or not.

Overall this has convinced me that I like having the option to Zwift, but I am not sure if the Zwift hub is the one for me.

cable tension and limit adjustment for the rear derailleur could be a bit different in the trainer than with your rear wheel/cassette, also could be a perception thing. Additionally, I recommend you set your trainer difficulty to 100% just to spread out the wear to different cogs on the cassette

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

tildes posted:

Is the Zwift hub supposed to feel more or less like riding a bike, or is it normal for it to sound louder/kind of grindy, esp in the smaller rings? I can’t tell if this is normal or not. I did get my LBS to set up the cassette on the hub to be the same as on my bike, but it definitely still doesn’t feel nearly as smooth as outside and I can’t tell if that’s just how these trainers are or not.

Overall this has convinced me that I like having the option to Zwift, but I am not sure if the Zwift hub is the one for me.


Possible issue #1
You need to fine-tune the indexing on your rear derailleur to account for some amount of offset.

Possibility #2
Your bike's drivetrain components are in not brand new condition, but the cassette that came with the Zwift Hub is == meshing issues.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Jokerpilled Drudge posted:

cable tension and limit adjustment for the rear derailleur could be a bit different in the trainer than with your rear wheel/cassette, also could be a perception thing. Additionally, I recommend you set your trainer difficulty to 100% just to spread out the wear to different cogs on the cassette

If you do this, you end up crosschained more severely, more often, which is far worse for wear than using certain cogs more often than others. Additionally shifting is a more violent action than chain articulation.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

Heliosicle posted:

Hoping that the dt370 hubs that are on the wheels that came with my bike will have identical spacing as some 350/240s when I get some road wheels.

I saw that you can get some little shims to make sure the disc rotor spacing is identical though

Forgot I intended to do this lol. Hopefully the spacing on the Erase hubs I'm getting is similar to my current hubs. I'm gonna go mad if there's no optimal position for both sets of wheels

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Heliosicle posted:

Forgot I intended to do this lol. Hopefully the spacing on the Erase hubs I'm getting is similar to my current hubs. I'm gonna go mad if there's no optimal position for both sets of wheels


For reassurance, 0.25mm shims aren’t thin enough to sync up the offsets on a couple of my hubs.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

TobinHatesYou posted:

For reassurance, 0.25mm shims aren’t thin enough to sync up the offsets on a couple of my hubs.

https://r2-bike.com/TUNE-Shim-Set-for-Centerlock-Hubs-4-Pieces

Hum, might need to get some of these then

Only 17 grand per kg!

YanniRotten
Apr 3, 2010

We're so pretty,
oh so pretty
I had to do a couple of things to get my bike to shift good (not on a Zwift, but a Kickr).

1) not sure if this mattered much, but the included spacer interfered with the rivets on the cassette I bought and made it crooked. I bought a Shimano spacer designed to work with the cassette.

2) I had to flip the hub width adapter because my bike is a hybrid. I could get my bike on with the adapter the wrong way around and hopefully did not do permanent damage, but it flexes everything WAY too much and screws up the alignment of the derailleur relative to the cassette.

Barring really weird geometry, if you get the cassette, spacers, and adapters right you should be shifting pretty close to how you would on the road. But it can also be easy to screw up a little or a lot.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

TobinHatesYou posted:

For reassurance, 0.25mm shims aren’t thin enough to sync up the offsets on a couple of my hubs.

Some lockrings come with a shim that is less than 0.25mm.

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

Record a video of it and post via imgur

Here are some videos. The first one I start in the small ring on back, big in front, and move up the cassette. Then I shift to small ring in front and go back down.

Then I got some short videos just of the front bit and just of the back bit, tho I’m not sure those are useful at all.

Just listening to it, this definitely feels too loud.

https://imgur.com/a/k4XfSuk

(Also apologies/grats depending on ur preference for the egregious feet in the 2nd vid, got too lazy to clip on)

TobinHatesYou posted:

Possible issue #1
You need to fine-tune the indexing on your rear derailleur to account for some amount of offset.

Possibility #2
Your bike's drivetrain components are in not brand new condition, but the cassette that came with the Zwift Hub is == meshing issues.

I did have a LBS install the cassette and try and get it dialed in which they felt they had, but once I set it up at home it didn’t really feel that way. I actually got the same cassette as on my bike normally, but also yeah the actual cassette on my bike has maybe ~700 miles of me riding it while probably not knowing how to shift or whatever to not cause wear.

YanniRotten posted:

I had to do a couple of things to get my bike to shift good (not on a Zwift, but a Kickr).

1) not sure if this mattered much, but the included spacer interfered with the rivets on the cassette I bought and made it crooked. I bought a Shimano spacer designed to work with the cassette.

2) I had to flip the hub width adapter because my bike is a hybrid. I could get my bike on with the adapter the wrong way around and hopefully did not do permanent damage, but it flexes everything WAY too much and screws up the alignment of the derailleur relative to the cassette.

Barring really weird geometry, if you get the cassette, spacers, and adapters right you should be shifting pretty close to how you would on the road. But it can also be easy to screw up a little or a lot.

I think the width is going ok, but it’s definitely possible something is weird there. I think I’m also pretty heavy (like 90kg) relative to normal riders/the LBS employees, so also possible that is straining or flexing the trainer in some weird way.


The upshot is at least I am in the return window, and have a surprisingly high buy in from my partner to maybe go for a smart bike so she could use it too…

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
is your chain routed through the deraileur cage correctly? the sound doesnt seem to change as you shift gears but it does seem louder than it should

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

is your chain routed through the deraileur cage correctly? the sound doesnt seem to change as you shift gears but it does seem louder than it should

I think so - it goes around the back side of the closest to the ground gear thing (i.e. it comes from the bottom and then mostly is making contact on the back half, if the front of the bike is front), and then the front side (relative to the bike) of the middle gear thing, to then go around the backside of the cassette. But I'll check when I get home! And definitely if there is any nuance to it beyond that I am probably missing it, as my attempt to describe things in this post probably makes clear.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Firstly, make sure the bike is fully seated on the trainer and the quick release is tight enough.

Secondly, the alignment of the gears on your wheel and the alignment of them on the trainer is generally not ever going to match up exactly and will take some fine adjustment. And actually, gear shifting is always going to need a little adjustment here and there as cables and housings wear and such.

Park tool's guides and videos are generally pretty good

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment

You shouldn't need to mess with any of the limit screws- just indexing.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

jamal posted:

Firstly, make sure the bike is fully seated on the trainer and the quick release is tight enough.

Secondly, the alignment of the gears on your wheel and the alignment of them on the trainer is generally not ever going to match up exactly and will take some fine adjustment. And actually, gear shifting is always going to need a little adjustment here and there as cables and housings wear and such.

Park tool's guides and videos are generally pretty good

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment

You shouldn't need to mess with any of the limit screws- just indexing.
I can't see a nut for a quick release, I think it must be thruaxle.

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

tildes posted:

Here are some videos. The first one I start in the small ring on back, big in front, and move up the cassette. Then I shift to small ring in front and go back down.

Then I got some short videos just of the front bit and just of the back bit, tho I’m not sure those are useful at all.

Just listening to it, this definitely feels too loud.

https://imgur.com/a/k4XfSuk

(Also apologies/grats depending on ur preference for the egregious feet in the 2nd vid, got too lazy to clip on)


Tobin has a foot fetish so he will be pleased!
I can't tell what size room your in but my bike does sound louder indoors, what with no wind noise and just my ragged breathing. Maybe it would be worth swapping over cassettes, it's a five minute job and would at least eliminate that.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
Hey all, I bought a Jamis bike for my son from a sporting goods store a couple of years ago, and I noticed the rear derailleur was janky. There was a lack of tension causing the chain to slip, and while trying to tighten it, noticed the tightening screw was not in place as the plastic around it was chipping, so there was no way to fix the tension as the screw would always be loose. I bought a new derailleur and installed it today, but I found out the parts were all different when compared to the spec sheet.

This is what the spec sheet says for the exact bike (year and model) we bought:


The derailleur I replaced was a "MicroSHIFT" same as the shift lever. The chain appears to be correct (it says KMC on it), but I suspect the freewheel is not Shimano, as the first gear doesn't have any branding whatsoever. All of the gears are silver. Both my bike and my wife's bikes have Shimano freewheels but the lowest gear is black and has the branding all over it.

I don't think my son cares about the brand of what's on his bike, but I feel ripped off as the parts may have been replaced. I did look at other bikes at the store today and there were a couple of Jamis bikes that also had "MicroSHIFT" parts on it rather than Shimano. I don't know if Jamis typically swaps parts (they don't seem to be using "MicroSHIFT" on any of their bikes) or if it was the store. It seems like a lot of trouble for someone to get "free Shimano parts" or w/e as these parts don't seem crazy expensive, so I wonder if Covid supply prevented Jamis from installing what's on the sheet.

Anyway, part of me wants to replace these parts because it doesn't feel right, but I don't think its worth it given the bike rides fine for now. This is a stupid question, but if/when something else goes out, can I just buy the listed chain, freewheel, derailleur and shiftlever that's in the spec sheet and replace them? Or are there parts I need to confirm aren't swapped before doing so? My younger son will probably ride this in the future, so when the chain/tires need to be replaced I will probably end up doing an overhaul.

Also interested in knowing if there's a reference for bike tools I should buy to do this stuff. I have a few auto tools (torque wrench, hex bits, etc..) but no bike-specific ones, other than a chain breaker that I bought today.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Yeah during covid supply chain issues spec sheets were suggestions, at best.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
All the 7 speed stuff is interchangeable so just replace what breaks/wears out.

When it's time to replace the derailleur get the Tourney if your kids are prone to treating their stuff poorly because when they drop their bike drive side down on the driveway it's gonna suck less when they break the 20$ derailleur than if they broke the 40$ one. If they're pretty good with their stuff the 40$ Altus one (8 speed works with 7 speed) works better and lasts longer when treated properly.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
Oh yeah the derailleur I bought was like $11.99, so if it breaks I wouldn't be too upset.

Good to know these are all interchangeable, I'll just let it be. We went on a ride earlier and it changes gears smoothly and the chain is nice and tight now.

numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

wish my RD cost $11.99

numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

got my cervelo r5 serviced. drive train is past "worn in" but i figure ive got two more season on it. changed the BB.

im so out of the loop, our local pro, rob britton, apparently got a belgian waffle ride in victoria? theres some lead up rides? i have no idea. im just showing up on a road bike for a bike ride this sunday at 9:45 and rolling with it.

im fat as hell

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

numberoneposter posted:

im fat as hell

:same:

was hoping I'd be able to go for a ride this weekend but still out with covid, fatigue is gone 2 weeks later but my chest is still wrecked.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Heliosicle posted:

:same:

was hoping I'd be able to go for a ride this weekend but still out with covid, fatigue is gone 2 weeks later but my chest is still wrecked.

My HR only normalized 2.5-3 weeks after I was otherwise COVID symptom-free.

Pantsmaster Bill
May 7, 2007

TobinHatesYou posted:

My HR only normalized 2.5-3 weeks after I was otherwise COVID symptom-free.

Your HR is never normal though

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Pantsmaster Bill posted:

Your HR is never normal though

:smugdog:

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?
COVID was a weird one, didn’t affect me much at all after the symptoms were gone in 4 or 5 days and I did some easy turbo sessions to stay sane while isolating and still testing positive. All hail immunisation.

I have though been destroyed by some heavy colds in recent memory with far longer lasting effects. Out of breath, cardio was messed up for ages, stopped even my cycle commute to work for a month.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.
I did get fully vaccinated + a booster, but the last one was over a year ago, should've gone to get another in December really.

I thought I'd gotten off ok because I felt totally fine by Monday. But commuting into work in the wet snow and a full on day seemed to knock me back into the full on illness again

hadji murad
Apr 18, 2006

Heliosicle posted:

I did get fully vaccinated + a booster, but the last one was over a year ago, should've gone to get another in December really.

I thought I'd gotten off ok because I felt totally fine by Monday. But commuting into work in the wet snow and a full on day seemed to knock me back into the full on illness again

I recently did that in the cold rain and it knocked me on my rear end for a week. My body felt worse than any flu I ever had and it took a full month to get over the lingering effects.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
I still feel a bit gross since Covid but I think a lot of that has to do with the fact that I barely rode in 2022 and so far not nearly as much in 2023 and as a result I'm just more gross than usual.

Going to ride bikes this morning before this snow storm buries us all.

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rifles
Oct 8, 2007
is this thing working
Opinions on https://www.rei.com/product/121596/co-op-cycles-cty-11-bike for casual riding with friends (no crazy distances), maaybe commuting someday, and just having a bike that will do bike things to explore local paths without falling apart? Seems like a pretty good deal with the 30% off. I read the OP and it says hybrid bikes bad but again, not planning on a lot of miles or anything like that.

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