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Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


How are people finding xpress paints overall? I'm not looking to buy any other express ones any time soon as I have most of my Army Painter speedpaints left, but it would be interesting to keep options open.

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Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

Lamuella posted:

How are people finding xpress paints overall? I'm not looking to buy any other express ones any time soon as I have most of my Army Painter speedpaints left, but it would be interesting to keep options open.

-Generally better in coverage, application, evenness, drying, and finish than Speed Paints
-On par with the good contrast paints
-Matte finish as opposed to shinier finish of contrast/speed even after multiple coats
-Very lacking in key colors especially grey, brown, and skin tones
-Do not look good over metal like speedpaints because of matte finish
-Cheaper than contrast but you use more
-New bottles are very good

The only bad bottle of the lot is the white which is in no way comparable to Holy White or Apothecary White.

The best bottle by far is the Black followed by the Velvet Red which is a perfect vampire red contrast.

If you had to buy only a few, I’d recommend Templar Black, Velvet Red, Copper Brown, Orc Green, and Drawf Skin. The other colors are pretty well covered already by Speed Paint or Contrast.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Crossposting from the 40k Thread:

Speaking of painting different color schemes for fun, my quickly expanding Death Watch Kill Team is fulfilling the same role! It's fun to paint different chapters, hence why members of The Lighthouse among the Halo Stars wear more of their original chapter than is normally allowed. Here is the Space Marine Heroes 3 Brother L------ something I picked up, bitzed to be a Blood Angels Captain of the Death Watch:





The focus of this guy was 1) a simple, yet effective, paint scheme (e.g. no fancy pants power sword) and 2) to practice those blood stones

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
I've found thinned wasteland brown is a decent bone colour. I used the Xpress medium but supposedly you can thin them with water without too much trouble. will have to experiment

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Yeah I did 1:3 with regular rear end matte medium and got a fine light khaki color.

welcome 2 Clown Town
Aug 1, 2006

GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull
In my explorations as a new painter trying different things I tried a combination of three drops of liquitex ink with three drops of matte medium and one drop of flow aid and got what is probably my favorite thing to paint with so far. It gave a very nice coverage with a cool translucent effect that was just fun to use.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



How's this for a basic color for a bunch of rats playing football, I think the color scheme works, but I'm not entirely sure just want a second opinion

Mistaken For Bacon
Apr 26, 2003


I think I've reached a point of diminishing returns. Maybe tomorrow I'll think of something to paint on his tabard.

GreenBuckanneer posted:



How's this for a basic color for a bunch of rats playing football, I think the color scheme works, but I'm not entirely sure just want a second opinion

I like the scheme. Have you thought about their home field being Eastern Washington's stadium?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Being able to use xpress paint on a wet pallete has been worth the purchase alone. No reaction issues like speedpaint, but I'd like some more browns/skinto es in the range for sure

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Mar 8, 2023

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


welcome 2 Clown Town posted:

In my explorations as a new painter trying different things I tried a combination of three drops of liquitex ink with three drops of matte medium and one drop of flow aid and got what is probably my favorite thing to paint with so far. It gave a very nice coverage with a cool translucent effect that was just fun to use.

Absolutely agreed on this. I did this with Liquitex raw umber when doing a character's leather coat and it looked fabulous.

The French Army
Mar 28, 2013

:france: Honneur et Patrie :france:


Time for a Thunderhawk progress update. I have completed the red and yellow quartering which means most of this model has been finished. What remain are small bits of black, metal, blue, green and parchment. When those are complete I will move on to heraldry, murals, insignia and other hand painted embelishments, followed by weathering and highlighting. The red layers took about 23 hours to complete and the yellow 27.5. Definitely the biggest hurdles are behind me now.

Photos:







The two photos below shows how the red and yellow layers correct each other and result in very straight hand painted lines:





Over the course of the creation of my Howling Griffons army I've had to mix the red and yellow paints three times. These two photos show the mixes and how they differ. The drop pod and tactical Marine were done with the first mix, Alvaro and the Stormtalon were done with the second, and the Thunderhawk with the third. I feel the third mix is a more faithful duplication of the first mix than the second.





Lastly a cool shot of the co-pilot.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



So drat good, I love the Howling Griffons color scheme and of course your scratch built thunderhawk is excellent.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Amazon UK have an offer on metallic inks right now. Already thinking of cool poo poo to do with them.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug

The French Army posted:

Lastly a cool shot of the co-pilot.



Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
How do you Marine gents get your edge highlighting so expertly precise? I'm hoping to improve my Death Guard painting but I'm not sure how to get that crisp line work down.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Lamuella posted:

Amazon UK have an offer on metallic inks right now. Already thinking of cool poo poo to do with them.



How does that work? Just the tiny flakes from metallic paint instead of the pigment? I'm curious what you'd do with that.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

How do you Marine gents get your edge highlighting so expertly precise? I'm hoping to improve my Death Guard painting but I'm not sure how to get that crisp line work down.

Not an expert, but cleaning up with the base color is essential

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

How do you Marine gents get your edge highlighting so expertly precise? I'm hoping to improve my Death Guard painting but I'm not sure how to get that crisp line work down.

There's so many factors but for me I found I was thinning my paint too much. Keeping the paint thicker and cleaning my brush more often to deal with the drying out was a big game changer for me.
You can def over or underload your brush, each with their own issue.
Also I have a tremor, so getting a desk where I can plant my elbows and keep my hands joined at the bottom makes a big difference.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Dr. Red Ranger posted:

How do you Marine gents get your edge highlighting so expertly precise? I'm hoping to improve my Death Guard painting but I'm not sure how to get that crisp line work down.

A good brush can be really helpful. I have noticed that since I have upgraded to sable brushes my edge highlighting has improved. I find the belly of the brush on sable seems to be able to hold more paint so when I get the perfect consistency for the edge highlighting I can do more highlights, which keeps the process moving. Also having a brush that has long bristles can help make some edge highlights really easy. Obviously the edges close to other things require a shorter brush. Practicing the mechanics and the motion of using the side of the brush is helpful as well. Also most people find it easiest and have most control when making a short up and down movement with the brush. So orientate the model, when possible, to paint with that motion as opposed to changing your motion and keeping the model static.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Harvey Mantaco posted:

How does that work? Just the tiny flakes from metallic paint instead of the pigment? I'm curious what you'd do with that.

Basically that. Superfine metallic pigment in an acrylic suspension. My plan is to use a little medium and a little flow improver to get a covering for where I want an even metallic sheen over a base colour. I'll see how it looks.

Under 15
Jan 6, 2005

Mr. Helsbecter will you please stop shooting I am on the phone

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

How do you Marine gents get your edge highlighting so expertly precise? I'm hoping to improve my Death Guard painting but I'm not sure how to get that crisp line work down.

make the marine bigger

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Got my first Direwolves unit painted up for AoS, so here's a couple of them.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Also, using the side of the brush instead of the tip wherever possible. Just a light touch across the edge you want to highlight.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




The French Army posted:

Time for a Thunderhawk progress update.

Dope AF.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Cross-posting in case anyone wanted these kits for a project.

Jcam
Jan 4, 2009

Yourhead
Six of twelve miniatures done for my little Battletech collection.


Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Jcam posted:

Six of twelve miniatures done for my little Battletech collection.




Nicest BT I've seen. Something about those models... I always end up hating how they look after getting painted. You absolutely shattered that - those are sick.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

At the start of the year I painted Bill Algren for the Qi and Gong faction (Malifaux)


then I just hit a wall hobby-wise. Have the rest of his faction on my painting desk, but just cant seem to get paint on the figures. Tried powering through, got a couple of basecoats down... Still no spark for literally a month. So I did what I usually do in that situation, picked something simple out the pile o' shame and got an easy win. In this case the Carrion Effigy.


Didnt seem to help this time though. So I figured go for something with an entirely different aesthetic, so I did a test colour scheme for my Necromunda Squat Prospectors. I've got a soft spot for Squats because they were my first army back in the day (and in fact my first 40K purchase was the box of plastic "space dwarfs" with their lasguns and heavy bolters).

Reasonably happy with it, the white armour looks better in person than in the picture. Will probably give it (and the rest of them when I paint them) a bit of chipping and weathering down the line, but the scheme works for me.

Decided to go right out my comfort zone after that, and try to make my first ever diorama, and because I thought the idea was neat, put it in a picture frame.

I'm quite pleased with it, considering it was my first/a bit of a learning piece! Made a bunch of mistakes, and learned a bunch of things for if I decide to do something like this again. The backdrop was very much a last minute thing as I was originally going to leave it black, but then thought the stark background was actually more distracting than having something there, so went in and did my best to add smoke and hints of flame. Would recommend doing something silly like this if you are in a hobby slump. Still havent painted the rest of the Qi and Gong, but I feel better about it than I did before.

Jcam
Jan 4, 2009

Yourhead

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Nicest BT I've seen. Something about those models... I always end up hating how they look after getting painted. You absolutely shattered that - those are sick.

That’s very nice of you, thank you! I’ve been having more and more problems with getting details the way I want them with how shaky my hands have been lately, but I’m happy with how these have been turning out.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Jcam posted:

That’s very nice of you, thank you! I’ve been having more and more problems with getting details the way I want them with how shaky my hands have been lately, but I’m happy with how these have been turning out.

What is your process? I am dabbling in playing BT a bit, and so may be painting a bunch of little stompy robots, and yours look amazing.

welcome 2 Clown Town
Aug 1, 2006

GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull

Lumpy posted:

What is your process? I am dabbling in playing BT a bit, and so may be painting a bunch of little stompy robots, and yours look amazing.

Seconding this request, I've been painting battletech myself recently in mine aren't turning out anywhere near that good.

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
Thanks everyone for the edge highlighting tips. I'll keep working on it and see what I can make happen.

Jcam
Jan 4, 2009

Yourhead


Lots of shortcuts! I'm too shaky to actually be a good painter so I try to find little cheats to make models still look half-decent. I primed everything with Games Workshop Grey Seer rattlecan. I use some GW washes/contrasts and mostly Pro Acryl (PA) for my normal paints.

White side:
- GW Apothecary White contrast, generously
- Drybrush of PA Bright Warm grey
- GW Nuln Oil applied into every recess and indentation for depth (not on the entire surface area)
- some Edge highlighting with PA Bold Titanium White, or even just another light drybrush

Blue side:
- GW Talassar Blue, avoiding build up on flat surfaces
- Drybrush of PA Sky Blue
- GW Nuln Oil applied into every recess and indentation for depth (not on the entire surface area)
- some Edge highlighting with PA Grey Blue, or you could lightly drybrush this if you want

Metallics
- Base coated with PA Dark Silver
- Washed with GW Nuln Oil, don't be shy
- Sparing highlights with PA Silver

Glass/Cockpits
- GW Talassar Blue, just being lazy from the base coat
- GW Nuln Oil on entire surface
- PA Transparent Orange on the entire piece of glass
- Repeat for 80% ish of the glass, and then 60% ish
- PA Transparent Orange + Pro Acryl Orange on 50%
- PA Orange on 40%
- PA Orange + Pro Acryl Golden Yellow on 20%
- a dot of PA Orange in the orange corner, and PA Bold Titanium White in the opposite

Base
- PA Fine Basing Texture
- Heavy wash with GW Agrax Earthshade, maybe even a second
- Drybrush with PA Bold Titanium White

For my decals
- Layer the area with GW 'Ardcoat, let it dry
- Apply the decal, let it dry
- Q-tip pushed into/rolled across the decal to make it confirm even more to the subtle textures on the plastic/resin
- Vallejo Ultra Matte Varnish (this stuff is insane) to seal afterward and make it look natural, as my PA paints are very matte

The glass only really came out the way I wanted it to with the Catapult, the other mechs so far have had cockpits too small for my big bologna stick fingers to reliably paint.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
scatter terrain rocks. these are plaster(?) aquarium rocks that i painted over



they make for some dramatic scenes


new cliff tile. make hills and/or cliffs with them!

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Nebalebadingdong posted:

scatter terrain rocks. these are plaster(?) aquarium rocks that i painted over



they make for some dramatic scenes


new cliff tile. make hills and/or cliffs with them!



Where do you get these?

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

The Demilich posted:

Where do you get these?

The base tile I made in blender. If you really want the flat blank tile, you can get it on my thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5894611
I get them printed in FDM once they're ready.

the hills i took from hex terrain set that's rattling around on thingiverse and just resized them for my purposes

Ez8
Aug 5, 2004

Nebalebadingdong posted:

The base tile I made in blender. If you really want the flat blank tile, you can get it on my thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5894611
I get them printed in FDM once they're ready.

the hills i took from hex terrain set that's rattling around on thingiverse and just resized them for my purposes

Link doesn't work. 404 error. :(

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Ez8 posted:

Link doesn't work. 404 error. :(

umm, try this one

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5903273

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Does anyone have tips for painting white using army painter speedpaints? The white seems to be a complete pile of poo poo where the 'shadows' are brighter than my zenithal pre-shading, so I was thinking of a blue-grey ("Runic Grey") mixed with medium.

Secondly, is there a foolproof recipe for spraying Vallejo gloss varnish through and airbrush? I keep getting orange-peel or it clogging... I'm diluting with airbrush thinners, but have given up on using retarder or flow improver for now, neither of which seem to make any bloody difference. I'm tempted to go back to aerosol for varnishes...

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Captain Magic
Apr 4, 2005

Yes, we have feathers--but the muscles of men.

SiKboy posted:

At the start of the year I painted Bill Algren for the Qi and Gong faction (Malifaux)


then I just hit a wall hobby-wise. Have the rest of his faction on my painting desk, but just cant seem to get paint on the figures. Tried powering through, got a couple of basecoats down... Still no spark for literally a month. So I did what I usually do in that situation, picked something simple out the pile o' shame and got an easy win. In this case the Carrion Effigy.


Didnt seem to help this time though. So I figured go for something with an entirely different aesthetic, so I did a test colour scheme for my Necromunda Squat Prospectors. I've got a soft spot for Squats because they were my first army back in the day (and in fact my first 40K purchase was the box of plastic "space dwarfs" with their lasguns and heavy bolters).

Reasonably happy with it, the white armour looks better in person than in the picture. Will probably give it (and the rest of them when I paint them) a bit of chipping and weathering down the line, but the scheme works for me.

Decided to go right out my comfort zone after that, and try to make my first ever diorama, and because I thought the idea was neat, put it in a picture frame.

I'm quite pleased with it, considering it was my first/a bit of a learning piece! Made a bunch of mistakes, and learned a bunch of things for if I decide to do something like this again. The backdrop was very much a last minute thing as I was originally going to leave it black, but then thought the stark background was actually more distracting than having something there, so went in and did my best to add smoke and hints of flame. Would recommend doing something silly like this if you are in a hobby slump. Still havent painted the rest of the Qi and Gong, but I feel better about it than I did before.

I love this diorama; I think it looks sick as hell

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