Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

StormDrain posted:

Speaking of, I've been considering replacing the stereo, 2015 Sierra, so I can add wireless Android Auto. I assume there are good items that tie in, am I looking at a weekend day install or a nightmare of rewiring?
Crutchfield charges like 10 bucks for install info unless you buy some stuff, but at least you can see if your harness is 1 or 5 feet long and how many modules they sell, and get some nice ominous messages like these.

The12Volt used to be pretty awesome but seems kind of dead these days, and I don't know what happened to Scosche's installer stuff. Youtube might actually be one of the best resources for newer cars. I don't know which deck/amps you have, but it probably sucks.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Lowclock posted:

Crutchfield charges like 10 bucks for install info unless you buy some stuff, but at least you can see if your harness is 1 or 5 feet long and how many modules they sell, and get some nice ominous messages like these.

The12Volt used to be pretty awesome but seems kind of dead these days, and I don't know what happened to Scosche's installer stuff. Youtube might actually be one of the best resources for newer cars. I don't know which deck/amps you have, but it probably sucks.

Oh boy, yeah that all checked out for my vehicle... Looks like I'll just be OK with Bluetooth and navigation on my phone in a cradle.

Gangringo
Jul 22, 2007

In the first age, in the first battle, when the shadows first lengthened, one sat.

He chose the path of perpetual contentment.

So I asked a while ago about double-din android auto head units, but I wasn't asking about feasibility of installing one, just looking for a recommendation of a brand, particularly one that has some sort of non-touch interface like an iDrive wheel or a dpad remote that can attach to the steering wheel or something.

Just looking for something that does the job and isn't painfully slow.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Darchangel posted:

My brother-in-law's Cobalt did that. It literally didn't have a switched power wire on the vehicle side. I was ready for that, since Crutchfield's installation guide for it points it out, along with several other installer sites.
I had to pick up power form another circuit in the fuse block, which is conveniently in the center console below the radio on that car. In his car's case, since he bought a base model, it didn't have OnStar and none of the driver info center stuff came through the radio, so I didn't have to deal with that. The models above that sent all the chimes and DIC noises through the stereo, including using the display. His just had an in-dash display and separate noise box. The aftermarket does make a black box that handles the upper models, though.

FYI only the first few years of Cobalts used the stereo for the DIC; it moved into the dash around 05 or 06.

It's funny that the Ion (heavily related to the Cobalt, G5, and HHR), which uses the same stereo on later models (just with an orange display), does have a switched power wire on all years. Also runs all chimes through a tiny speaker on the back of the cluster instead. The car even controlled RAP (retained accessory power) by just keeping the accessory circuit powered, instead of signaling the stereo to shut off. You only need the $$ adapter to retain Onstar - and, well, Onstar is dead on that era GM now (they used VZW 1xRTT or 3G, I forget which... either way, those services are dead).

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 7, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Gangringo posted:

So I asked a while ago about double-din android auto head units, but I wasn't asking about feasibility of installing one, just looking for a recommendation of a brand, particularly one that has some sort of non-touch interface like an iDrive wheel or a dpad remote that can attach to the steering wheel or something.

Just looking for something that does the job and isn't painfully slow.
All but the cheapest and shittiest decks will be able to connect steering wheel control key wires, and all the android ones also seem to be programmable. I'd be willing to bet that any other bluetooth controller that either emulates a keyboard or does AVRCP would work too, but I've never tried with an actual deck, though an ESP32 works on my Android phone just fine. Atoto and Joying have their own specific controllers as well which look pretty decent.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

My own question - in my experience, the mics that come with most aftermarket head units suck. Is there a way to use the factory microphone on my car? It's in an ideal location and seems to pick up my voice pretty well. Late 2000s Toyota/Lexus with factory bluetooth (but for phone calls only and with horrible lag - like a solid 1-2 second delay when talking).

I have no idea how it's wired, but it's in the overhead console. Worst case, I guess I could pop the factory mic out and throw in an aftermarket one in the same location.

Lowclock posted:

All but the cheapest and shittiest decks will be able to connect steering wheel control key wires, and all the android ones also seem to be programmable. I'd be willing to bet that any other bluetooth controller that either emulates a keyboard or does AVRCP would work too, but I've never tried with an actual deck, though an ESP32 works on my Android phone just fine. Atoto and Joying have their own specific controllers as well which look pretty decent.

It sounds like they're asking for an add-on steering wheel control, not one that can work with controls already built-in.

Pioneer used to offer a steering wheel mounted remote. It looks like Axxess makes a universal one, though it's kinda spendy, and only works with aftermarket stereos with a steering wheel control input.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Feb 9, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

STR posted:

It sounds like they're asking for an add-on steering wheel control, not one that can work with controls already built-in.
Oh oops, I forgot to mention the part about how most of those little aftermarket steering wheel remotes you can find on amazon use either those steering wheel control key wires or bluetooth.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Feb 9, 2023

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Yeah the one I linked seems to be wireless, but with its own dedicated receiver that connects to most aftermarket stereos (and gets buried behind the dash).

Axxess is generally a solid brand, Crutchfield wouldn't carry them otherwise. No clue on the stuff on Amazon - never really looked at anything that wasn't specific to the brand stereo I had at the time.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
That one does seem to have the advantage of being able to reprogram the buttons itself instead of having to learn them on the deck, but holy poo poo $140? And Rockford has one for $130 and it's just bluetooth! Car audio name brands will never stop scamming.

Blindeye
Sep 22, 2006

I can't believe I kissed you!

Lowclock posted:

You probably need something like this because it turns the factory deck on with a serial bus and not just a normal switched 12v wire.

E: Or you could grab switched 12v elsewhere if you feel comfortable doing that and don't care about losing chimes/retained power/onstar and all that poo poo.

That did the trick! Now I've entered the mid-2010s in technology.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Dunno if this should go here or the stupid questions thread, but I've never had a car with factory aux input that wasn't on the stereo itself.

2008 Lexus ES350, factory stereo (non-navigation). It has an aux input in the center console, and shares an input button with CD (i.e. CD/AUX). I can't seem to get it to go to the aux input, even with something plugged in and actively playing. I've used both the front panel buttons, and the mode button on the steering wheel - neither will get it to aux. The CD/AUX button works if a CD is in it, otherwise it doesn't do anything.

I do know the car has an iPod adapter plugged into the back of the stereo (dealer add-on, cable is still in the glove box), but that seems to have taken over the satellite input (it shows iPod disconnected when I hit SAT). From what I've dug up, it looks like the stereo won't allow you to move to the aux input unless it detects something is plugged in. And I'm not an Apple guy, so I don't have anything with that ancient 30 pin Apple connector (so I can't even see if the iPod adapter works). But for all I know, the iPod adapter may have taken over the aux input too?

Any ideas before I go tearing into the dash?

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Feb 10, 2023

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

You can buy 30-pin to Bluetooth adapters that are designed for old iPod docks!

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
30 pin is bullshit designed to sell licenses and weird cables. Don't be surprised if you can't find one that actually works with your stereo. I think you'd probably be better off looking for cd changer port stuff like this or similar.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I'm not trying to keep the 30 pin - that's a dealer-added iPod adapter that, I believe, plugs into the satellite receiver plug on the stereo. I just want to get the 3.5mm aux input working until I can get an Android Auto head unit.. The iPod adapter is coming out either way. Lexus STILL sells a dealer-installed 30 pin iPod to head unit adapter for this car, BTW, and for pretty drat cheap ($45 at the local Lexus dealer, used to be something like $250). I suspect that's what's installed in my car, since it was installed at the dealer.

And there's no CD changer port - it has an in-dash CD changer. Since iPod adapters work over the satellite plug, if anyone is making anything, I'd think a BT to SAT connection would be out there. But they stopped using this stereo at the end of 2011 - hence why I bought a Bluetooth (aptX HD to be specific) to 3.5mm adapter. The factory stereo has two external inputs - one for an external satellite receiver, one for 3.5mm (with the 3.5mm remotely mounted in the center console).

I just want the 3.5mm port working for now. I don't really have any CDs (for that sick 6 disc in dash CD changer), though I do hear what sounds like a CD rolling around under the center console when I take turns. That's bugging the hell out of me, so ultimately everything's coming out anyway. Maybe it'll be a sweet Megadeth CD. I mean.... Lexus - The Pursuit of Perfection demo CD for that cute little 8" sub.

Ultimately I think the 3.5mm was either left disconnected when the iPod adapter was added (it looks like it has its own 3 pin plug), or the particular adapter used uses both the satellite and aux input.

RIP Paul Walker posted:

You can buy 30-pin to Bluetooth adapters that are designed for old iPod docks!

That's quite the... uh.. convoluted idea. Yo I heard you liked adapters, so I got you some adapters for your adapters! I guess that'd be the easiest way to get working full-on Bluetooth without taking things apart, but the glove box is messy enough with that long rear end iPod cable.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Yeah, I bet that 3.5mm aux kit and the ipod kit both use that 6+6 port and they just didn't have a splitter for it so the aux got left dangling. Sorry, CD changer port is just more a generic term for poo poo like like Alpine's Ai-Net or Pioneer P-bus ports that were originally and most often used for cd changers, but also poo poo like bluetooth, phone, aux, ipod, etc.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Feb 11, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Oops, post instead of edit.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Tore into it, unplugged the iPod adapter (which goes between what I think is the 6+6 port and factory harness + head unit - might have been 8+8, I wasn't really paying attention and had to do most of it by feel anyway), and plugged the factory plug into the head unit. Still no aux input. My best guess is either the cable I'm using is bad, or the actual aux port is damaged (there's usually a contact in them that tells the head unit something's plugged in). I already broke one piece of trim ("soft touch" plastic that was super brittle with fake leather wrap :argh:), though I just kinda winged it instead of doing it right. I'll have to remove the center console to get to the actual aux jack, and that looks like it's probably a pain. I've gotta do a junkyard run this weekend anyway, hopefully I can find a same-generation Camry to tear down and pull parts from (should be the same aux port and roughly the same center console mounting). If I'm lucky I might even find another ES350, but these rarely wind up in the self service yards.

Sounds like it's 30 pin to bluetooth time for now - I put everything back the way it was and verified it can see the iPod adapter again. Man this thing is kind of a pain to get to the stereo on; mainly because the center stack vents come out (and not as a full assembly) Flew into a million pieces, I think I spent more time putting them back together than I did on anything else.

I want to know how the hell whoever installed this kit got the 30 wire cable to fit tightly through a hole in the glove box. I'm sure there's a plug on the other end of it. It doesn't look like they cut anything, it just fits perfectly. As far as I can tell, I'll have to cut the cable to remove it if/when I remove it. Judging by the paperwork, it's an OEM dealer-added accessory, so it's possible it came with a new glove box insert with the cable already run through the hole.

This is one of those cars that's enough of a PITA that I might actually pay a shop. Once you're in there, it's a lot like SO's Matrix (right down to the drat clock, except the clock is powered by the HVAC controls), except there's a shitload more crap in there, the stereo has 5 plugs instead of 2 (also two antenna connectors???), and overall it's just more cramped since this car actually has a real center console. The Matrix mostly has a clipped-together dash with a handful of screws, the Lexus is a ton of screws/bolts with at least 2x as many clips.

FWIW, I didn't get a picture of the tag on the cable from the iPod adapter, but it did mention LAN on it, so I assume it ties into the car's bus somehow. I assume that's how it's able to work with the steering wheel controls and essentially tell the stereo "nope, no satellite, we're doing iPod" (when you hit the satellite button, it says SAT - IPOD DISCONNECTED on the display) over one connector. The adapter itself just has 2 plugs - it basically goes between 1 factory plug and the stereo.

e: every 30 pin BT adapter I'm finding has "(NOT FOR CARS)" in the description. Huh.
e2: found one where someone in the reviews specifically mentions using it in a 2007 Lexus RX350, which, if it's a dealer installed ipod adapter, should be the same one I have. For $12 I'll take a shot. Some other reviews mention it working with Honda and Audi dealer-installed ipod adapters of the same era too.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 11, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
I finally managed to find the relevant wiring diagram and now I'm pretty sure it's just a hosed up jack. Looks like some aftermarket kits used that 12-pin for aux in, but the factory ones never did.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Eh, already have an ipod cable to Bluetooth adapter on the way. Thanks for digging though. I don't plan to live with this stereo for very long, maybe a couple of months.

I think much of the center console has to come out to get the stereo out, whenever I swap it I'll see if I can figure out what the deal was. I'd like to reuse the factory location for the new stereo's aux input (if they even come with one now), so the original jack will very likely be coming out at that point. I'll tear into it at that point. The aux in is factory on this, ipod adapter was a dealer add on.

Worst case, I get an old ipod and load it up. 😂

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Feb 11, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Yeah I was mostly just into it for my own curiosity at this point. Now I wonder what the other plug you plugged in was. Does your car have a stock USB port too? Not that it would really matter regarding the aux since it probably isn't even in the same harness. Hopefully that ipod adapter thingy works and you don't get screwed by some little resistor or serial handshake. Aliexpress seemed to have a bunch of 12 and 20 pin stuff that was actually reasonable priced and would probably also work, but nobody wants to wait a month or two for that.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

It just inserts itself between a factory plug and the stereo - that's the two plugs. No USB anywhere.

Unfortunately it looks like this adapter won't do the trick. The stereo says "hello ipod" when I plug it in, and after about 10 seconds starts flashing "check ipod". Can't get any audio out of it. I did find out I can get to the factory 3.5mm port if I remove the seat heater switch panel. It's connected, I'll need to find the pinout to see which pin gets shorted when a plug is inserted.

Fake edit: I just remembered one reviewer said it did the same thing, but they got audio. And the Bluetooth on my phone gets weird sometimes until I restart it. Gonna give that a shot. Pretend this is Big Clive saying "one moment please"

Real edit: no dice. Phone shows it's connected, stereo just keeps saying check ipod. I did manage to get the 3.5mm assembly out, going to see if I can find a pinout and see what pin gets shorted to ground when something is plugged in and try shorting that in the plug. That'll at least tell me if it's the 3.5mm socket or something at the stereo end.

e2: same part is used in the Prius, and someone actually went through the work of "fixing" (heh) it instead of replacing the jack. Apparently a pretty common issue. https://priuschat.com/threads/aux-audio-input-fault-on-gen-ii-prius-a-cheap-repair-that-works-part-86190-53010.150612/. A replacement one is available for $15 if I botch this, so no biggie if I gently caress it up.

E3: aux now works, but only out of one channel. I probably bridged something with my shaky hands while soldering, but at least I know the problem was the jack. Replacement ordered. At least I know it was the jack. Sounds surprisingly good even though only one channel is working, though the BT to 3.5mm adapter I have claimed aptX HD low latency. I'd love to use it for phone calls too (and the phone shows aptx hd when connected) (the car's built in phone bluetooth has horrible lag), but it gets buried in the center console. This is just a stopgap until I replace the stereo anyway.... eventually.. whenever that may be.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Feb 13, 2023

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

STR posted:

It just inserts itself between a factory plug and the stereo - that's the two plugs. No USB anywhere.
Ahh that's weird then because at least according to the factory wiring diagram the only other thing that might be connected to that CD changer port is a little box that presumably reads flash drives and stuff, or I guess possibly satellite ratio, at least on a car without nav.

STR posted:

E3: aux now works, but only out of one channel. I probably bridged something with my shaky hands while soldering, but at least I know the problem was the jack. I'll order a replacement.
Nice. I probably would've gone inside that jack with a toothpick and some contact cleaner before soldering anything, but gently caress it if it works it works, and a new jack is only like a dozen bucks anyways.

E:

STR posted:

There's no CD changer port
Again, generic term for that 12-pin port. Even in that diagram it prefixes all the duplicate pin names with "CD", because that's what it originally was. There's obviously plenty of other stuff it can also be used for, like your ipod adapter, or that multi-media interface USB thingy that's standard on the nav deck but optional on the non-nav one.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Feb 13, 2023

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I tried that, also tried hosing it down in contact cleaner once I had it out. Didn't make a difference. It sounds like there's a contact inside the jack that shorts a pin (of course through resistors, so the stereo knows if you're trying to hax the gibson) when something is plugged in, and if the jack is used frequently, it wears out (and if not used often, it sticks). Looking into it, I can see a plate at the end that the tip of the plug probably presses - I assume it warps over time. Looking at the PCB, there's 2 resistors - both are pulled to ground on one end when something is plugged in, only one if nothing is plugged in. The guides I saw stated you need to connect both ends of the resistors together. Easy enough with steady hands, but mine are anything but - and I bridged a connection, so the left channel is likely pulled to ground through the resistors now.

There's no CD changer port - it has an in-dash CD changer, and the AM button is shared with SAT (so you cycle through AM before getting to the satellite radio/ipod add on). I think the diagram you pulled up is for the in-dash multimedia receiver, which is the top trim level (DVD video + navigation). Maybe the base model had a single disc player with an optional changer add-on? Mine's a low to middle of the line trim ("Premium Plus"). I have a FSM for a 2007 (mine is an 08), though admittedly haven't dug through it much yet - my copy seems to mainly focus on mechanical and immobilizer stuff.

It's stupid, IMO, for the stereo to need to "detect" something plugged in before it'll switch to that input. Just let me switch to it, I'll figure out if there's no signal present. It's just another annoying point of failure. At least now I know I can utilize the factory aux input whenever I get around to putting in an aftermarket stereo, or at least the location - I'll probably just do a surface mount female 3.5mm in the same location.

Kinda funny that it throws out a "HELLO IPOD" message with that cheap adapter hooked up though, even if it switched to a flashing "check ipod" fairly quickly.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Feb 13, 2023

Don Dongington
Sep 27, 2005

#ideasboom
College Slice
Yeah, I'm not sure why they retained the "CD Changer" labelling for that port given that the earlier IS300 I have (03) also had a factory 6 cd changer. I'm guessing they wanted to retain the ability to add inputs like your iPod adaptor as factory add-ons later, so they just threw the plug from the single CD Camry and corolla head units on there too.

I have a little ebay box that plugs into it that provides an aux in, as well as a USB port for a thumb drive. If you put albums in folders in the correct config it will pretend to be a cd changer, so the unit has programming and logic to accept an external stacker as well as the internal one.

Probably handy given the in dash cd changer fails fairly consistently after about 100,000km. It was a pretty janky solution though so I eventually swapped it out for an Alpine double din with Bluetooth.

Probably worth noting that almost every Toyota head unit from around 1997-2010 or something had a version of that port. Mine has an adaptor as the deck on the IS uses the older version, but it's literally just a different plug.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

In my case it seems to be a satellite tuner port, but essentially does the same thing. :iiam:

I have no idea if the CD changer works or not - I don't have any CDs anymore - but it does claim the ability to play MP3 CDs, so I might try burning a disc full of MP3s. The one in my mom's 03 Avalon (which probably has the same CD changer mechanism) still worked at over 225k miles.

Eventually an Android Auto head unit will be the way I go - adding a backup camera as well. I could have kept the JVC AA unit I had in my old car, but I really didn't like the UI (or the 2V mono subwoofer output). At least this one has a factory aux input.

e: new jack is in. I'm pretty shocked how good this stereo sounds when it's not just the radio, though I was playing FLAC from my phone to an aptX HD BT adapter.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Feb 15, 2023

DrChu
May 14, 2002

My partner has a 2011 Subaru Legacy and I want to upgrade the factory nav unit for her to something aftermarket that supports Carplay as its pretty outdated and unresponsive, and this car will be our main road trip car for the next few summers. I think I have everything sorted in terms of wiring harnesses, dash kit, head unit, etc, except for how to convert the factory reverse camera to work with the new headunit. I can find plenty of adapters to allow aftermarket cameras to work with the stock head unit, but not the other way around. Worst case scenario I can buy an aftermarket camera and throw that in, but I'd rather avoid the hassle and expense if an adapter exists to use the stock one.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

DrChu posted:

My partner has a 2011 Subaru Legacy and I want to upgrade the factory nav unit for her to something aftermarket that supports Carplay as its pretty outdated and unresponsive, and this car will be our main road trip car for the next few summers. I think I have everything sorted in terms of wiring harnesses, dash kit, head unit, etc, except for how to convert the factory reverse camera to work with the new headunit. I can find plenty of adapters to allow aftermarket cameras to work with the stock head unit, but not the other way around. Worst case scenario I can buy an aftermarket camera and throw that in, but I'd rather avoid the hassle and expense if an adapter exists to use the stock one.
I couldn't find any adapters either, but it does seem like it's plain old composite video that you could just cut and splice a different connector on if you really want to keep the factory one.
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/backup-camera-wiring.516706/#post-5910436
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2012-backup-camera-notes.516834/#post-5910665
https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-camera-86267aj10b

DrChu
May 14, 2002

Lowclock posted:

I couldn't find any adapters either, but it does seem like it's plain old composite video that you could just cut and splice a different connector on if you really want to keep the factory one.
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/backup-camera-wiring.516706/#post-5910436
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2012-backup-camera-notes.516834/#post-5910665
https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-camera-86267aj10b
Thanks, I'll probably end up doing that splicing when I get to that part.

I did the first attempt at the install this weekend and it did not go well.

What I'm starting with:


Trim removed:


Headunit removed:

I did not count on that bar being behind the screen (center of photo). That prevents a normal depth head unit from fitting in at the correct angle.

Luckily I got one with a floating screen so I have some wiggle room, but the test fit still wasn't great:

I'm not expecting flush but it does stick out a little more than I'd like. Because of the issue with the bar I'll be drilling new mounting points in the dash kit so hopefully I can get it sunk in a little more.

That's not the main concern now, when I first wired up everything I had no sound. Because of the lack of harnesses specifically for this car it turned out to be because the amp wasn't getting the remote turn on signal. After spending way too much time digging through ae64.com I found the remote turn on signal goes through the secondary harness. I pulled that pin out of the main one and gave it a try:


It worked, but the sound was kind of lifeless compared to the stock radio. The harness I used the line level outputs of from the head unit, but apparently the factory stereo send speaker level signals to the amp, so I'm going to try a different harness that uses the speaker level signals instead to see if that's any better.

Before I spend about $20 for a custom cable from ae64.com for the secondary connector, is there any way to look up connectors by pin count, or does this look familiar to anyone? Its 24 pins.

If Metra or whoever has one of these for a different car I don't mind depinning everything not in use so I can get the one wire I actually need.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

DrChu posted:

It worked, but the sound was kind of lifeless compared to the stock radio.
It's probably just from missing some EQ that the factory deck has. Unless it's way quieter now or you want to bypass the factory amp, you should just stick with the line-level harness.

I'd just splice that wire a few inches back from the connector. $20 is pretty reasonable considering you probably won't find that connector any cheaper without minimum order sizes that also take forever to ship.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Mar 7, 2023

DrChu
May 14, 2002

It is a lot more quiet as well, it was well over 50% to be at what I'd consider a normal listening volume while parked outside my garage, so I'd imagine while driving I'd need it up even louder. Its only $10 for a harness that uses the speaker outs so I'll give it a try, if it sounds distorted I'll go back to the original one and try to work the EQ more.

I'll probably order the adapter, I think I found a bulk one like you said, but not a corresponding regular production one anywhere - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/24-Pin-Car-Stereo-Radio-Replacement_60644853125.html

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

DrChu posted:

It is a lot more quiet as well, it was well over 50% to be at what I'd consider a normal listening volume while parked outside my garage
Then I guess it's worth a shot! Hopefully it's not all hissy. I wonder what the input impedance on that factory amp is like. Might be set up for something that's higher than most line levels and lower than most speaker levels.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb
The OP is eleven years old, so forgive me if I’m in the wrong place. But I need a sanity check.

I’ve always used Crutchfield and installed poo poo myself. I’m looking at the rear side panels for a 2013 Spark, which are listed as 6x4s. But the factory speakers are apparently a weird size, so YouTube installs say you have to leave one or two screws out.

Crutchfield insists they will not fit, and I have to do a fabricated bracket for a 4x4 for the side panels. Which means if I ordered 6x4s from them, they don’t throw in the install goodies.

Who is right? Crutchfield, or everywhere else?

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost

Captain Log posted:

The OP is eleven years old, so forgive me if I’m in the wrong place. But I need a sanity check.

I’ve always used Crutchfield and installed poo poo myself. I’m looking at the rear side panels for a 2013 Spark, which are listed as 6x4s. But the factory speakers are apparently a weird size, so YouTube installs say you have to leave one or two screws out.

Crutchfield insists they will not fit, and I have to do a fabricated bracket for a 4x4 for the side panels. Which means if I ordered 6x4s from them, they don’t throw in the install goodies.

Who is right? Crutchfield, or everywhere else?
Crutchfield is usually correct. They really seem to know their poo poo, and if you can find a car-specific article it usually explains what/why fits. Here's the one I used for my Camry, and it was spot-on:

https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/2018-up-toyota-camry.html

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb

Nocheez posted:

Crutchfield is usually correct. They really seem to know their poo poo, and if you can find a car-specific article it usually explains what/why fits. Here's the one I used for my Camry, and it was spot-on:

https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/2018-up-toyota-camry.html

I'm just confused by seeing videos of people having zero trouble making a 6x4 fit, as opposed to fabricating a bracket from scratch for a 4x4. I spoke to a person over chat who told me that was the only option.

I've got bad legs, so anything much past a quick plug-in/screw in job I'll end up paying someone to do. The location of those back speakers is pretty loving awkward if you've got mobility issues.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
It's just because 4x6 is a weird size with a bunch of different potential screw layouts and frame sizes, and they don't want to bother keeping track. I'm sure you can find one that will work, but if one doesn't fit then they all don't fit as far as crutchfield is concerned.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb

Lowclock posted:

It's just because 4x6 is a weird size with a bunch of different potential screw layouts and frame sizes, and they don't want to bother keeping track. I'm sure you can find one that will work, but if one doesn't fit then they all don't fit as far as crutchfield is concerned.

:respek:

Got'cha. I think I can make 6x4s work without much issue. I just didn't want to order something blatantly wrong.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

In the past I've noticed Crutchfield being un-necessarily strict about what "fits" because anything that isn't bolt in bolt out doesn't count as fitting. All Volvos made since like 1995 use standard size speaker holes but they mount on factory brackets which the factory speakers are glued to. Remove the glued speaker and any standard 6.5 will replace it. But they say "modified fit" or "does not fit" when you search stuff.

Same with the 700 series, 5-1/4 speakers fit just fine in the front doors, but you have to trim just a tiny bit on some speaker frames for the factory grille to snap back on. Crutchfield? DOES NOT FIT.

I rely on forums and youtube and my own experience, and shop around for discounts enough that buying the freebies separate is no big deal.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Lowclock posted:

Then I guess it's worth a shot! Hopefully it's not all hissy. I wonder what the input impedance on that factory amp is like. Might be set up for something that's higher than most line levels and lower than most speaker levels.

Perhaps the amp is set for the higher of the two common line-level voltages? My amp can be set to 2V or 0.2V, as I recall. Something like that.

Captain Log
Oct 2, 2006

Now I am become Borb,
the Destroyer of Seeb

LloydDobler posted:

In the past I've noticed Crutchfield being un-necessarily strict about what "fits" because anything that isn't bolt in bolt out doesn't count as fitting. All Volvos made since like 1995 use standard size speaker holes but they mount on factory brackets which the factory speakers are glued to. Remove the glued speaker and any standard 6.5 will replace it. But they say "modified fit" or "does not fit" when you search stuff.

Same with the 700 series, 5-1/4 speakers fit just fine in the front doors, but you have to trim just a tiny bit on some speaker frames for the factory grille to snap back on. Crutchfield? DOES NOT FIT.

I rely on forums and youtube and my own experience, and shop around for discounts enough that buying the freebies separate is no big deal.

I went to an audio shop and got an asinine quote for a small profile sub and four speakers. (ONLY $1179!!)

But my main reason for going was finding out they install 6x4s in the spot in question. Which means I'll install the fresh speakers myself, and end up paying someone to do a sub. Running wire with my legs would be hell.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005

Darchangel posted:

Perhaps the amp is set for the higher of the two common line-level voltages? My amp can be set to 2V or 0.2V, as I recall. Something like that.
I've never seen any kind of factory amp with a gain control, even if it was just a switch, though i guess it's possible. Input impedance is usually a good indicator whether it wants line or speaker level when there's no standard connectors like an RCA, but they might do some weird poo poo too since they don't have to be compatible with anyone else's stuff, just make everything as cheap as possible. Putting a 2 volt line out into a speaker level input would likely be very quiet, but having a stock line output stronger than that would also be odd so I don't know. Then you throw in the fact that apparently the only place that makes harnesses, some random internet guy and not scosche OR metra, makes them for both possibilities and it's a real head scratcher.

Captain Log posted:

I went to an audio shop and got an asinine quote for a small profile sub and four speakers. (ONLY $1179!!)
Easily enough to cover one of these bad boys and really take advantage of the Spark's high voltage battery.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply