|
Thanks, will do.
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 01:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 04:27 |
|
|
kastein posted:I'd say aim it 0 to 0.75 degree below the driveshaft itself then. This depends on how stiff the springs are as well and also personal preference and driving style somewhat. I underestimated the stiffness of my new metric ton rated springs on my MJ and I get some substantial vibration over 70mph now because I gave it my usual 1-1.5 degrees, I'm used to super flexy off-road springs not heavy duty hauling ones. it's stopped raining for a couple days, so it's time to lay under the jeep again.   there wasn't really a great spot to measure the diff. i used the flattest part of the bottom, is there a better spot? similarly, the shaft is so short i couldnt get the whole thing on the phone. i kind of eyeballed the gap so it was even on both sides. not ideal. so, it looks like the pinion is 3 degrees down from the shaft. this built in level feature doesn't have decimals, so i suppose it could be less, but if i was aiming for 0-1 degrees that still seems excessive. am i on the right track by thinking that?  visually it looks ok, but that doesn't really mean much.   i thought it wasn't welded, but it... sorta? what the hell is this? it doesn't look connected at all, but there does seem to be bead. did someone cut it off and not finish grinding out the old weld? wtf   the front looks like it's fine though. i didn't check the angle because im not going to cut it off if it's wrong. trial by fire!
|
|
#
?
Mar 3, 2023 23:11
|
|
|
Oh boy, all of those welds look loving terrible strength wise but the first two are definitely worse. My usual trick surfaces for pinion angle are: - pinion yoke surface where the ujoint straps bolt on, if I don't have a driveshaft in my way yet - diff cover mounting surface or a few bolt heads if they look reasonably even - the area on each axle tube socket on the center casting right where the big round pocket is for each side of a differential case spreader. These are just to the left and right of the diff cover. The surface is machined flat along with the rest of the cover mounting surface, and to the best of my knowledge, it's perpendicular to the pinion axis on all factory Dana axles. On some fancy aftermarket stuff like rockjocks axles this will not work. Give it a scrape with a razor before putting your angle gauge on it and you'll probably see machining marks still, even on pretty rusty axles. In California you'll definitely get a good reading there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2023 06:43
|
|
|
kastein posted:Oh boy, all of those welds look loving terrible strength wise but the first two are definitely worse. oh yeah, those spreader pads were in great shape. a little paint on em, but seemed flat enough to just use as-is.  that, plus i used the small edge of my phone instead of the large edge on the driveshaft, so i could get it flat on the shaft, means i am more confident in that measurement too. i got 24° and 27° this time, so still more than i want. ill see if i can get it down to 1° if the weather cooperates this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2023 10:05
|
|
|
new shoes! RWL club. took the 1.75" spacers out of it to spare the wheel bearings. need to adjust the steering stops out a little so the tire doesn't try to eat the spring at full lock. gotta put the carb back on tomorrow so i can move it into the driveway, and if i have enough time after it's done raining i'll try to get the rear pinion angle dialed in.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2023 05:01
|
|
|
well, didn't get it up on stands in the driveway until today. naturally, snafu: one of the U-bolts galled and stripped the threads. guess it'll be in the driveway until summit can deliver some new ones! since both sides are damaged (had to cut off the right side, but left side came off ok) where it goes through the spring plate, im guessing it was run for a while with the nuts loose, and the plate rubbed the threads off. needs some bigger washers, too. i got the angle dialed in right around 1° (it was measuring 4° when i got it level) and got this ugly-rear end tack weld on there to hold it until the new U-bolts get here.  spoilered because i am really not proud of how trash that weld looks. at least it matches the other work that has been done to this jeep before, lol one question: the rear d44 has these little semicircular cutouts that look like there should be some sort of plate or cover or something in there. it's part of the cutout so you can get to the backing plate bolts through the axle flange, but unlike my truck (which also has a d44) it isn't fully covered by the wheel, oddly.  is there a little piece that's supposed to go there to keep the sand and water and other assorted offroad crud out of the brakes?
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2023 08:55
|
|
|
Got a local truck suspension shop? I haven't bought ubolts online in over a decade, I go to the local medium and heavy duty truck shop and they make me a set of 5/8" heavy duty ones to my measurements for about $50 while I wait.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2023 16:37
|
|
|
Seconding truck shops; when I needed new U-bolts for the C10 23 years ago that was the only easy option because all anyone else carried were U-bolts that fit the 1/4" wider leaf springs on squarebodies.
|
|
#
?
Mar 12, 2023 22:58
|
|
|
Truck shop it. Too easy to get the right thing at the right cost. Also grind out your perch weld and redo it. This time, preheat the axle with a handheld torch. Turn your current all the way the gently caress up and spend more time on the axle side than the perch side.
|
|
#
?
Mar 13, 2023 17:27
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:Truck shop it. Too easy to get the right thing at the right cost. called a couple truck shops here in san jose, and the unanimous response was that nobody local makes u-bolts. got a couple recommendations for a place out in sac that does it, but at that point ill just order from summit and get em sooner than i would be able to make a trip out there (which would take all day anyway). good call on the preheating. the welder is all the way up, but it's just a tiny little 80A HF inverter guy so it can use all the thermal help it can get.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2023 06:41
|
|
|
oh uh haha 80A is a bit weedy for that. Drive Line Services of Sacramento. They're good. Really. Good.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2023 17:05
|
|
|
That sucks. I hope there's a shop local to my new spot that does em, I'm spoiled by having Ballard Spring only about 20 miles away. 80 harbor freight amps is really, really pushing it. Those welds are under an immense amount of shear, being only about 1.3" from center of the axle shaft and having to react all that torque. If you can't get ahold of a larger welder, I'd seriously consider only doing enough tacks to hold them on and then pull the whole axle out and bring it to someone. Alternatively, make sure you're running flux core as it burns hotter, then preheat and really, really spend some time burning it in. I've done leaf perches successfully with a 100A Lincoln procore, but you need to get much better fusion than I'm seeing from that tack weld or it'll peel right off at the wrong moment.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2023 19:53
|
|
|
im not using a flux core/MIG, it's an inverter stick welder. im using 6013 in electrode-negative, which should give a lil extra heat. if torch-preheating doesn't turn out better, i'll see if i can borrow my buddy's bigger MIG this weekend.
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2023 20:56
|
|
|
slept on swapping in a new starter overwinter and when I fired up the xj the alternator seized and shredded the belt weeee new alt and battery going in soon weee
|
|
#
?
Mar 14, 2023 22:32
|
|
|
Yeah you're gonna want a lot more than <100A for that axle. I would be squeamish with my poo poo at ~200A. alcatraz gently caress boy posted:slept on swapping in a new starter overwinter and when I fired up the xj the alternator seized and shredded the belt weeee This is how jeeps do it. Related to jeep things. Took my husband's four door grocery getter with extra buttons in for an oil change. Promptly needed an oil cooler thanks to the PO heehawing the oil filter cap on at approximately Two Hulk Sized Hernias. Made up for it by buying a rack for it too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2023 22:54
|
|
|
If you take your time you can make it happen with 100A, those axle tubes are likely only 3/16 or quarter wall. Hell, I did the perches on the Honcho (quarter plate, axle tubes are 1/2 wall) with my Eastwood 135 MIG set to kill. Would I trust someone else's welds done this way? Not unless I knew them very well. But I watched the puddle melt into the base metal with my own eyes. But 80 is... Probably sketch. Especially 80 harbor freight amps. I'm not sure they use the same definition of an amp.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2023 03:15
|
|
|
A Comanche just popped up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2023 22:00
|
|
|
i have a dumb question unrelated to the axle stuff above. are york compressor clutches supposed to have a friction material? they seem like they ought to not be just metal on metal, and it looks like there's a groove where something should be, but when i search for york compressor clutch friction i can't find much of anything. searching for rebuild parts is also pretty fruitless. surprised not to find a bunch of tech articles from people building/rebuilding their oba setups. anyway mine looks like this:   is that really all that is supposed to be there?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2023 11:26
|
|
|
I have zero experience with York ones in particular but I've never seen anything but metal on metal for AC clutches. Yeah, it seems weird to me too.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2023 16:50
|
|
|
All of the ones I've worked with have been plain metal. There's at least a half dozen different pulley/clutches for these though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2023 17:13
|
|
|
Am I stupid as gently caress for wanting to throw money at this sight unseen?
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2023 01:44
|
|
|
That's a digit too much for my cheap rear end but they've been going higher and higher recently. Bottom of the market on the MJ was right around 2010-2013, it's been all up since then. That being said, there's a very nice looking longbed in my area of Washington that's on the same level as that one. Here's the listing from a local fb group:  Pros: It's a 91, so Chrysler OBD1 EFI instead of RENIX on the 89 It's not a Peugeot BA-10/5 transmission like the 89 might be (because it's an auto, that's personal preference... Most but not all 89 4.0s with manual were the BA-10/5 and it's an extremely weak transmission) Other than that it's a wash, or personal preference which is better. I can't really tell what rear end the 89 has but the 91 definitely has the d35... It's likely both do. The 91s hacked up more and longbed on 33" MTs, 89 has more period correct aftermarket stuff on it and is shortbed on... I'm gonna guess those are 31" ATs. Both look like they've got the same Westin aftermarket rear bumper. The 91 has some kind of a trailer hitch but I can't tell if it's a crappy badly installed aftermarket one, the great repop one a guy is making now, or the original now discontinued drawtite he copied it from. Me, I'd wait for an unmolested one for like a grand. They do still exist but they're getting much harder to find. I sold my spare 88 to Sandbagger for $350 in 2018 and that was absolutely an insane deal, I just didn't feel right charging a friend more than I'd paid myself. Cliff notes on MJs: 86 Engine: 2.5 (gutless but functional, TBI), 2.8 V6 (avoid unless you want to swap something else in anyways, both gutless and known for exploding), 2.1TD (avoid unless you're hopelessly horny for gutless ancient diesels made entirely out of impossible to source parts) Transmission: AX5 or AX4 for all manuals, 3spd Chrysler for all autos. The AX are decent unless you're working them hard then expect them to eat gears. No opinion on the 3spd. Tcase: some kind of crap tier np207 or np208, nearly no aftermarket upgrade parts available, but at least a 231 fits easily Front axle: crummy Dana 30 probably with vacuum disconnect, possibly CV axles?, Maybe low pinion, I have heard many redneck myths on this but have no evidence for them Rear axles: d35 (crap), d44 (rare and good), AMC 20 (rare and good) Other notes: 2.5s used a flywheel that has been NLA for a decade so you might be one clutch job from a yard ornament if there's not enough meat left to turn it, all 86s were long bed Cliff notes: probably avoid these unless it's a 2.5 and REALLY clean and/or you're looking for something to V8 swap 87 Engines: 4.0 RENIX MPFI introduced (gutless but reliable... Except the electrical, IMO), 2.8 consigned to the dustbin of history, 2.5 and 2.1TD unchanged Transmission: manuals unchanged with one exception, auto is now the Aisin Warner AW4 aka A340. Utterly bulletproof. Even the 2.5 got this transmission this year. The one manual exception: newly introduced 4.0 got the Peugeot BA-10/5 manual. It is legendarily poo poo. Tcase: np231 or np242. Decent. Front axle: high pinion Dana 30, vac disconnect on 231 equipped, non disconnect on 242s. Slightly less crap than 86 axles IMO Rear axle: AMC 20 no longer available, d35 and d44 only Other notes: the 2.5 with 4 speed automatic is very very rare, they come with 4.56 factory gears. I've heard of a total of 6 in existence in the last 15 years. Shortbeds were introduced this year. 88 Pretty much unchanged from 87. They added a fuel pump ballast resistor because '87 customers were complaining about fuel pump noise. 89 Pretty much unchanged from 88. Engine: 4.0s got a new firmware image this year that adds a few HP. The redneck NIST certified butt-dyno reports from the field are that you definitely notice the difference. I have my doubts, but you can spend a hundred bucks on an eBay ECU to swap into 87-88 if you want. Transmission: changed from Peugeot BA-10/5 to AX15 on 4.0s midway through 89 because Jeep dealers were already seeing an unacceptable number of transmissions full of gear mulch coming back for warranty work, after only 2.5 years of production. 90 Pretty much unchanged from 89. 91 Engine: Totally new head, header, intake, EFI system, bigger cam, ten miles less vacuum lines, EGR removed, significantly more power (about a 10% boost, personal experience, you definitely feel it, my 88 is severely lacking in power compared to my old 91). That all applies to both 4.0 and 2.5. the 2.5 got MPFI instead of TBI, finally, as well. Transmission: AW4 got a bigger output shaft, Chrysler 3 speed reintroduced for the 2.5 auto option (ugh, why) Front axle: new knuckles, brakes, unit bearings. Lateral change reliability and performance wise but significantly easier to find parts for in B&M stores. Rear axle: the d35 got different brakes and went from non c clip to c clip in either 90 or 91. I can't remember which. It's crap either way. other notes: new AC compressor and bracket, new electronic speedo, no more wavey speedos from kinked speedo cables, new fuel senders that are even harder to source than the older models 92 Pretty much unchanged from 91. Transmission: AX15 got a different pilot bearing and input shaft this year. Big whoop. And then they cancelled the MJ midway through 92 so that's a wrap. kastein fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Mar 18, 2023 |
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2023 04:00
|
|
|
kastein posted:I have zero experience with York ones in particular but I've never seen anything but metal on metal for AC clutches. Yeah, it seems weird to me too. cursedshitbox posted:All of the ones I've worked with have been plain metal. There's at least a half dozen different pulley/clutches for these though. huh. well, thanks for the input, i guess i will just put a fresh bearing in here (pulley was pulled by the PO after the bearing seized) and run it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 18, 2023 05:28
|
|
|
I backed out the long bolt to adjust the belt tensioner too far and it came out of the lower threaded part. Fucker is bent and I'm having a hell of a time getting it back in the hole (I drew some hair around it already). Any ideas? Trying to guide it with a flatblade is a pain. Thinking of some kind of funnel device.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2023 15:47
|
|
|
This is on a 4.0 96 ZJ right? If it's like the XJ one, unbolt the idler pulley completely from the little block that it and the tensioner bolt go through, then thread the tensioner block onto the bolt by hand and get it seated in the right spot, then bolt the idler pulley back onto it. It's way easier without the idler and its bolt constraining the block and tensioner bolt. If you're feeling like never wanting to gently caress with that stupid bolt again, run a tap through the block on the tensioner bolt hole (IIRC it is m8x1.25) and put some antiseize on it and the bolt before reassembly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2023 02:47
|
|
|
Raluek posted:are york compressor clutches supposed to have a friction material? they seem like they ought to not be just metal on metal It's a magnetic clutch, and even a very thin layer of friction liner will significantly weaken the grip of the electromagnet, because it will create a gap of non-magnetic material. Any benefit from the friction material will be overwhelmed by the large decrease in clamping strength.
|
|
#
?
Mar 22, 2023 05:39
|
|
|
kastein posted:This is on a 4.0 96 ZJ right? If it's like the XJ one, unbolt the idler pulley completely from the little block that it and the tensioner bolt go through, then thread the tensioner block onto the bolt by hand and get it seated in the right spot, then bolt the idler pulley back onto it. It's way easier without the idler and its bolt constraining the block and tensioner bolt. 99 xj these days thanks for the tips will get at it again soon
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2023 11:57
|
|
|
You're in luck, 4.0L 96-98 ZJ and 96-01 XJ are exactly the same with respect to belt tensioning, only difference is where the radiator fan is driven from.
|
|
#
?
Mar 25, 2023 22:14
|
|
|
When last we visited, we spoke about our brakes, post-pad/rotor/caliper replacement. First, drama. They did not, despite their paperwork, adjust my parking brake. I noticed immediately, so the video below (which is roughly a week later) cannot be legally laid at their feet. At the beginning, you'll hear me set the parking brake, and it's on a wheel chock I installed years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2woFyUp1AQo Other than damage to the gate, which now has a big bend in it, but still closes, there was minor cosmetic damage to the front left bumper. (Note the lack of profanity, which is a minor miracle). That was March 8. On March 11, the jeep was parked a distance I thought was safe from falling ice dams from my second story roof. It was not. If the dam gets too big, it can slide out quite a way before falling, as I discovered.  PXL_20230312_004249228 by B. B., on Flickr PXL_20230312_004236067 by B. B., on Flickr PXL_20230312_004258652 by B. B., on Flickr PXL_20230312_004309922 by B. B., on FlickrJust installed the new hood today. Replacing the air intake with a cold air intake tomorrow. Jesus.  PXL_20230401_180021390.PORTRAIT by B. B., on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2023 19:21
|
|
|
Congratulations on not getting the full Anton Yelchin experience at least 
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2023 22:27
|
|
|
Yup, going on month 9 of no parts available for my hp diesel pump recall. Trying to keep my tank full so it doesn't grenade itself.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2023 22:59
|
|
|
Cat Hatter posted:Congratulations on not getting the full Anton Yelchin experience at least As amazing as it is, I thought of old Chekov as I was climbing in to drive away.
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2023 00:02
|
|
|
Oh hey cool my brakes are hissing Seems like the brake booster has a leak in it, so I'm gonna be replacing that this week. After that, I need to put a budget and part list together for redoing my front suspension this spring. Then at some point I have to replace a leaky Schrader valve, vacuum out the A/C system, and refill it properly so I have working air for once this summer. For once, I actually have money to get all the parts I need, and time to get this done without having to rush it all. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2023 16:32
|
|
|
Evil SpongeBob posted:Yup, going on month 9 of no parts available for my hp diesel pump recall. Trying to keep my tank full so it doesn't grenade itself. Friends just got their Grand Cherokee Eco diesel back from 12 weeks of waiting on parts. They're going to sell it. It's been in the shop for like 6 out of the past 12 months.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 00:42
|
|
|
See, that's just it. I've had only one problem in 49k miles. I've had the passenger side mirror replaced because it didn't auto dim. That's it. It's been a pretty good vehicle so far, so I'm guessing I'm due for something catastrophic.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 17:19
|
|
|
What parts are on backorder? Is it related to the CP4 recall?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 17:26
|
|
|
Yes, it is whatever new fuel pump they're going to put in. https://chrysler.oemdtc.com/3051/safety-recall-z46-high-pressure-fuel-pump-2014-2020-jeep-grand-cherokee-2014-2019-ram-1500
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 17:37
|
|
|
Is that the recall where lovely American diesel is eating pumps designed for cleaner European diesel?
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 18:37
|
|
|
It wasnt designed for lower sulfur US fuel, yes, if that's what you mean by lovely.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 20:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 04:27 |
|
|
Evil SpongeBob posted:It wasnt designed for lower sulfur US fuel, yes, if that's what you mean by lovely. lovely. Dirty. Conforming to less stringent standards. However you want to say it. I'll admit they only thing I know about this issue is from this Jalopnik article, but they were saying US Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel is lower sulfur than older US standards, but still higher sulfur than EU diesel. Some highlights: Jalopnik posted:American ULSD can have up to 15 parts per million sulfur, compared to Europe’s 10 ppm max. I haven't looked into the situation past that though because I don't own a diesel vehicle so I'm willing to be proven wrong.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2023 01:58
|
|