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Captain Log posted:I went to an audio shop and got an asinine quote for a small profile sub and four speakers. (ONLY $1179!!) I reccomend you run wire using your arms.
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Mar 11, 2023 16:46
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Lowclock posted:://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-hv-160000-1-channel-160000-watts-rms/p]one of these bad boys[/url] and really take advantage of the Spark's high voltage battery. Sweet Jesus Christ, I don’t want to blow out my windows. StormDrain posted:I reccomend you run wire using your arms.  Needing leg braces to get around make crawling around a car loving hard.
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Mar 11, 2023 18:27
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Captain Log posted:Sweet Jesus Christ, I don’t want to blow out my windows.
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Mar 11, 2023 21:41
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Lowclock posted:Well duh, that's why you roll yours down and blow out everyone else's.  After doing plenty of reading and watching videos, I’m sure as hell not putting in my own sub. But I’ve not used an installer since…ever? Is it most economical to buy the sub from the place that installs it? Or should I buy from Crutchfield and then get an installer? What’s considered reasonable to charge? Most car audio places look shady as gently caress, or are god drat Best Buy.
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Mar 12, 2023 16:59
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Captain Log posted:
Not really sure what install prices are like these days. Probably like $100+ in labor if they're just going to tap the rear speaker wires into an amp with high level inputs, and more if your car has a high-pass filter on the stock deck and they also install an LC2i or something to try to fix that. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 12, 2023 21:32
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Lowclock posted:Places seem to charge pretty normalized prices for gear since they know everyone can just order it all off Amazon now. The places I worked at didn't really care or charge extra if you brought your own stuff, we just wouldn't warranty anything that you didn't buy from us. Installers are hit or miss everywhere since nobody wants to pay them what they're worth, but at least with a big box place like Best Buy you have a huge corporation to bitch at and fix stuff instead of one or two shady guys who might just tell you to gently caress off. Thanks for giving me some context for pricing, it really helps. For some reason, two different stores have quoted me in the $1k neighborhood for installing a $400ish sub. I don't exactly understand how they're coming to that price, even having it explained to my face. There is a really highly regarded installer in Portland who doesn't sell the equipment, and I'll contact them next. Here is where I'm at on the Spark - - Head Unit - Ten year old Pioneer AVIC6000NEX. This was top of the line a decade ago. It has a built in GPS, back-up camera, and other bells and whistles. But, it's buggy as hell. It requires an app to sync my phone which doesn't work. The steering wheel controls only work about 50% of the time. They stopped updating it with the iPhone 6. But the Bluetooth connection for piping in music works. - Factory Speakers - two 4x4s and two 6x4s that sound like poo poo. I've already ordered mid-range kicker replacements. I ordered the kickers because they had a shitload of "screw-hole" options. Apparently the Spark uses oddballl sized factory speakers and the extra screw positions are needed if I don't want to fabricate I've had it explained to me that most head units these days just use your phone for the GPS, so I shouldn't worry about having one built into it. I'm going to see how I like the new speakers first. But I cannot decide if I'm going to do the head unit, or the sub, first.
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Mar 13, 2023 12:09
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Captain Log posted:Here is where I'm at on the Spark $400 sub $300 amp $100 box $100 wiring $150 install That would be pretty much it right there. I looked up Best Buy and they want $149 for a sub amp install now, which doesn't seem unreasonable given the poo poo you have to deal with in newer cars sometimes, and supposedly includes line output converters and bass knobs if applicable. That better be some pretty decent big name brand (and big markup) stuff though. You could definitely save a bunch of money going with lesser known brands. You can still get decks with GPS and even cellular modems, but most people already have phones so there's not much of a point of having another one. You might be able to fix your steering wheel controls by messing with the wiring or cleaning the crappy 1/4" jack they like to use for them, but you'd probably be happier with something newer even if it's not a flagship. I'd honestly recommend getting a measurement mic and learn how to use Room EQ Wizard to set up some parametric EQ on your phone or something before even getting new speakers. You'll almost definitely get more improvement out of $100 of microphone and tuning than $100 of anything else, and then you can also use it for other devices too. Where and how speakers are installed makes a huge difference, so even really nice new speakers might sound different but still bad. Your stock speakers might have not even sounded so awful on the stock radio because it was set up to account for them, but your aftermarket deck is just universal and doesn't know what's up. You can always just tweak graphic EQ bars by ear and get something better than you had, but being able to make accurate and measurable changes with a real target works so much better. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Mar 13, 2023 |
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Mar 13, 2023 19:34
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Captain Log posted:Thanks for giving me some context for pricing, it really helps. For some reason, two different stores have quoted me in the $1k neighborhood for installing a $400ish sub. I don't exactly understand how they're coming to that price, even having it explained to my face. There is a really highly regarded installer in Portland who doesn't sell the equipment, and I'll contact them next. Oh, you’re in Portland? I assume the shop you’re talking about is Mobile West? If so, I’ll toss in another recommendation for them. I bet if you go in in person the owner will be the one chatting with you. I’m surprised there is enough business to keep him going but it’s nice to see.
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Mar 13, 2023 21:55
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Lowclock posted:I guess $1k isn't that insane if it includes absolutely everything else. Thank you very much for the breakdown and effortpost. This tells me exactly where I might be getting jimmied around - I'm looking at powered subs, or whichever don't require a separate amp, in the $300-400ish range. I'll be calling this independent father son installer business with something like fifty-one five star reviews on Yelp to get their pricing, and check Best Buy to make sure it's not stupidly cheap compared to elsewhere. The stock speakers in the Spark are pretty dire. Sure, they handle high end just fine. But anything much lower than a person speaking is just completely absent at any EQ setting. Unless I crank up the bass, then it sounds like I'm rattling eggshells in a box. RIP Paul Walker posted:Oh, you’re in Portland? I assume the shop you’re talking about is Mobile West? If so, I’ll toss in another recommendation for them. I bet if you go in in person the owner will be the one chatting with you. I’m surprised there is enough business to keep him going but it’s nice to see. I was thinking about contacting them, but the drive would be a little bit inconvenient. But with a goon rec, I'll include them for sure. They were the highest ranked place with a storefront within something like twenty miles.
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Mar 14, 2023 04:31
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Captain Log posted:This tells me exactly where I might be getting jimmied around - I'm looking at powered subs, or whichever don't require a separate amp, in the $300-400ish range. Captain Log posted:The stock speakers in the Spark are pretty dire. Sure, they handle high end just fine. But anything much lower than a person speaking is just completely absent at any EQ setting. Unless I crank up the bass, then it sounds like I'm rattling eggshells in a box. I was looking at your deck and although it has Auto EQ, they don't include the mic anymore. However, if it's anything like the one my Premier deck had, it just ends up sounding worse than doing it by ear/hand, and won't even let you tune it manually afterwards because it fully takes over. If you are still wanting more in the future, consider a measurement mic to do it yourself(not the pioneer thing)!
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Mar 14, 2023 05:59
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I wanted to make sure I wasn't talking poo poo, so I went and double checked. This is Stereo King in Gresham's "quote." Dude said he couldn't print it out, but had it saved in their system. They quoted the four speakers, even though I told him I was putting those in myself. This is without a deck. I don't like, "We can't print it out."  Car Toys, for just the powered sub and install, told me to expect a grand because it was, "two hours of labor." I told them I was interested in doing a head unit if the price was right, before they told me a grand for a sub. The guy told me he only does quotes in person, and that I would need to be there ready to go to get specifics. For reasons. I couldn't call in and say, "Hey, I want X, Y, and Z. What would be the price?" Basically, I couldn't get them nailed down on an exact price. But I'll admit, I wasn't ready to buy something after their general high sounding quotes. I don't get why it's so difficult to give me something concrete. Then he gave me a five minute spiel about financing, even though I explicitly told him at the start, "I absolutely will not finance anything, I even paid cash for my car." ---------- All that said, I might do the head unit before a sub. I'm going to drive this car forever, so I might as well have a stereo system I'll enjoy.
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Mar 14, 2023 12:04
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Multiple locations but still only open 5 days a week and 8 hours a day, not a single real product listed anywhere on their website, secret quotes, and three different lease-to-own/financing options are some pretty big red flags for Stereo King in my opinion. Even if that price includes the speakers and installation it still sucks. Car Toys is relatively big and been around a long time and I've always heard was fine, if a little pricey. Most of the stuff I looked at on their website was like Amazon prices and even "Free Installation" on all their decks, so I'm not sure how or why they suddenly want to invert your butt hole for a powered subwoofer. There could be multiple reasons why they don't want to write quotes. They might be completely unfamiliar with the car and don't want to have to add a ton if problems arise, don't want you taking that quote to someone else to get them to match or beat it, or don't want you posting their ripoff price somewhere on the internet to damage their reputation. Not sure which one it is in this case, but it would sure scare me off. This is an extremely normal install, if not on the easy side. Even the freshest Best Buy trainee should have no problem knocking this out in a quality manner for a reasonable price. These guys are either getting incredibly greedy or really having trouble keeping the lights on.
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Mar 14, 2023 21:54
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I just got some speakers, and the diagram shows two positive wires going to the amp. My current speakers only have one positive wire. Can I just leave one unconnected? My head unit only has one positive wire per channel.
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Mar 22, 2023 23:33
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Woof Blitzer posted:I just got some speakers, and the diagram shows two positive wires going to the amp. My current speakers only have one positive wire. Can I just leave one unconnected? My head unit only has one positive wire per channel.
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Mar 23, 2023 04:50
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Hey guys, I want to upgrade the audio in my 1997 Pajero Evolution. Right now it has a japanese aftermarket stereo in there that's a horror show. Over the years I've replaced head units, and I'm a fine wiring technician. Would be cool to get something that can display android auto and I could charge a phone with. Speakers are another issue - it has bose right now but it sounds terrible. I don't have a big budget limitation here as I'll do it over time and it's my dream car so I want it to be nice. Current setup: 
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Mar 23, 2023 17:29
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I hope someone can recommend something better than the Atoto F7. It fits those criteria but I'm so over the constant crashing.
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Mar 23, 2023 19:39
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Nocheez posted:I hope someone can recommend something better than the Atoto F7. It fits those criteria but I'm so over the constant crashing. Really? Mine's only crashed a few times. Few enough that it still surprises me. Did you update the firmware? All it takes is a thumb drive and an account on their support forums (which is dumb - shouldn't have to log into anything to DL basic stuff like that.) Woof Blitzer posted:I just got some speakers, and the diagram shows two positive wires going to the amp. My current speakers only have one positive wire. Can I just leave one unconnected? My head unit only has one positive wire per channel. That's odd. Generally it's one positive and one negative to each speaker, for full-range speakers. Subwoofers get more complicated sometimes. Agree a pic or link to the manual would be useful. A thought occurs: it's not an older super-cheap head unit that uses common ground, is it?
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Mar 23, 2023 22:41
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I'd say to get something android-based so at least you have more than 0 software choices, but that pretty much locks you into the kinda sketchy import poo poo. At least I've heard of Atoto and Joying having some pretty generous customer service if you're willing to give them a good review. Personally I'd mainly just look for something with a parametric EQ and time alignment because everything else is so hard to judge without some hands-on time or actual honest and competent reviews.
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Mar 23, 2023 22:54
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Lowclock posted:Do you have a link to these speakers? Maybe they are one of those sets of "convertible" speakers that can be mounted together like a coaxial or split apart like components, or they are meant for some OEM common ground setup? They're Polk DB522 5.25 speakers, here is the diagram.
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Mar 23, 2023 23:04
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That's not two wires on the positive, they just drew it dummy thick for some reason. edit: basically, their technical illustrator was experiencing a loss of skill for clarity that day.
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Mar 23, 2023 23:35
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Darchangel posted:Really? Mine's only crashed a few times. Few enough that it still surprises me. Yep, even was without my stereo for a couple days because it failed the first time.
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Mar 24, 2023 00:10
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Darchangel posted:That's not two wires on the positive, they just drew it dummy thick for some reason.  Definitely a case where just looking at the speaker makes more sense than looking at the manual.
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Mar 24, 2023 06:00
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Hey folks, Back to the Pajero Evo - I looked around and found the Kenwood Excelon DMX809S which I like for wireless android auto, and a USB port for fast charging android. I would really really like if it had 2 rear USB ports so i could two USB ports remote in a dash cutout. I searched for about an hour and couldn't find anything equivalent. Anyone here super on the ball with car audio know of an alternative?
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Mar 24, 2023 13:29
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shacked up with Brenda posted:I would really really like if it had 2 rear USB ports so i could two USB ports remote in a dash cutout.
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Mar 24, 2023 13:46
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shacked up with Brenda posted:Hey folks, I have the DMX906S and it has two rear USB ports, but I think the model is discontinued.
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Mar 24, 2023 14:06
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Lowclock posted:Any reason why it would need to be integrated into the deck? There's tons of cheap little dedicated usb quick chargers for cars that you could use instead. I was trying to not hack into the harness if it was easy to not do so.
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Mar 24, 2023 15:55
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shacked up with Brenda posted:Hey folks, My Alpine iLX-W650 has one rear USB port - that's something I specifically selected for when looking - but doesn't do wireless Android Auto/CarPlay. The iLX-507 does, but is another $300 over the 650 - $100 more than the Kenwood you're looking at. You're looking at a minimum of $500 for a name-brand wireless Android Auto head unit. Sony and JVC (and Jensen, LOL) both have one right at $500. IF you want to gamble, Boss has one for $350. Seems like most have only one USB port. shacked up with Brenda posted:I was trying to not hack into the harness if it was easy to not do so. If you just want USB ports for power, wire them in when you build the harness for the radio. You've got fused switched, battery, and ground right there. You're going to be soldering a vehicle adapter harness to the head unit plug anyway.
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Mar 24, 2023 17:46
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Recommendation Post - After a hundred or so miles in my Spark with new speakers, I'm pretty much 99% on it needing a sub. Everything sounds nicer than it should considering the speakers being two 4x4s and two 6x4s. Which I think it due to it being a tiny car without needing too much to fill it up. But anything bass heavy bottoms out pretty quick, trying to clap my new speakers or just sounding like nothing. I'll be getting it installed, due to my aforementioned mobility difficulties. Any brands or particular models for a small, powered sub I should seek out? Or better yet, avoid outright? ---------- Secondly, I updated the firmware in my Pioneer AVIC-NEX6000 head unit. It's old and finicky, not properly pairing with my phone even though the basic bluetooth works. The touchscreen loving sucks, which drives me crazier than it should. It has a GPS built-in, which is cool. But apparently we are in the age of using a GPS app from your smartphone and piping it through the head unit, which I've never experienced. It also has a backup camera that looks like it has been smudged with vasoline. This is probably the lowest priority, but what mid-range double-din head units are worth a poo poo? Which should I avoid? I'd install it myself, but almost all the car shops around here have free installation. The important feature to me would be true wireless function with my iPhone and compatibility with iOS.
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Mar 25, 2023 12:14
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Captain Log posted:Any brands or particular models for a small, powered sub I should seek out? Or better yet, avoid outright? Captain Log posted:The touchscreen loving sucks Captain Log posted:It has a GPS built-in, which is cool. But apparently we are in the age of using a GPS app from your smartphone and piping it through the head unit, which I've never experienced
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Mar 25, 2023 16:14
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I put these in the back, which go up to 75 watts. The only reason I got them was they have a billion holes for mounting, which I needed. The back speakers are a proprietary shape from Chevy and I had to get creative with a power drill and plastic shears. But, no rattle whatsoever! Kicker 47KSC4604 - 75w peak 6x4 I paired them with the same line from the same brand in the front. Kicker 47KSC404 - 75w peak 4x4 I know Kicker is meh, but for my purposes they sound great. Just without any real low end. I really don’t need much, nor do I have a ton of space. I just want enough bass to play my rap and techno loud enough.
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Mar 25, 2023 17:10
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Captain Log posted:I put these in the back, which go up to 75 watts. Captain Log posted:I know Kicker is meh
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Mar 25, 2023 17:53
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More misadventures with the 2011 Legacy. I wired up a harness to use the speaker outputs instead of the RCA outs to run into the factory amplifier. This brought the volume level close to the stock headunit (maybe a little louder), but there was also a low-level static sound present when audio wasn't playing. This didn't sound like a ground loop, just a static sound like you're not quite tuned into a radio station. The sound is also the same not matter the volume level set on the headunit, setting the LR balance or FR fader doesn't isolate it to a particular speaker, if you mute the system its still there, but if you turn the headunit off (from the headunit, still keeping the car power on) it will go away. I'm going to try again with the RCA harness and make sure its not present using that one and if not try to figure out how to deal with the low output. One thing I've seen suggested is using some kind of line driver to boost the voltage of the pre-outs, but I'm having trouble finding a basic one that will do 4 RCA inputs to 4 RCA outputs with an adjustable gain. Most seem to also integrate a LOC and only have speaker level inputs to RCA outs. I also ditched the floating display headunit. There was no good way to fit the chasis into the dash, and the display always stuck out too far. I went with the same model as just a regular double DIN headunit, since I found out the depth of that version is only like an inch. At least it will look ok once I get all this wiring sorted out. 
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Mar 27, 2023 20:15
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Captain Log posted:This is probably the lowest priority, but what mid-range double-din head units are worth a poo poo? Which should I avoid? I'd install it myself, but almost all the car shops around here have free installation. The important feature to me would be true wireless function with my iPhone and compatibility with iOS. It's worth noting that *wireless* CarPlay over wired CarPlay adds a significant premium to the price of the head unit. For that matter, CarPlay itself bumps it up. Cheapes name brand CarPlay I've seen is $349, and that's my Alpine iLX-W650. The cheapest Alpine that does wireless CarPlay is the iLX-507 at around $650. Cheapest head unit I've seen that does wireless CarPlay is a Boss at $350. Cheapest wireless CarPlay units I found were right at $500. No-name *wired* CarPlay units can get down in the $200s. I like to shop at Crutchfield, and compare at Sonic Electronix. I usually end up buying from Sonic Electronix. Both offer installation kits (dash kit and wiring harness adapter for head units, harness adapters and adapter plates if needed for speakers.) I can't really *not* recommend any of the big names like Alpine, Sony, Pioneer. I'd be fine with JVC, I think. Kenwood annoyed me with the head unit I put in my Jeep 5 or so years ago - it liked to reboot a lot, and the display was *glossy and curved* while simultaneously not being bright enough. Single DIN, and not even CarPlay which made the bad firmware more of a head-scratcher. May not reflect on current offerings at all, however.
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Mar 27, 2023 20:57
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FWIW, at least on Android, there's a few wireless Android Auto adapters on the market that just plug into your (wired) Android Auto HU. Great if you have factory AA or you want to try to add it to a 3rd party AA head unit. Motorola's MA1 does NOT play nice with JVC. I never could figure out why, but even wired AA was a little glitchy with it - the actual AA part worked fine when plugged in, but I'd have to delete and re-add the BT connection every other day or so. Over a MA1 it would randomly disconnect, and I'd still have to delete and re-add the bluetooth part. It worked fantastic on my work van (2021 Ford Transit with Sync 3.4), I had more issues with the van's stereo crashing (but it did that even when my phone was plugged in via cable). There's also AAWireless, which was a bit later getting out of Indiegogo, but supposedly has better support. Motorola's support doesn't really exist aside from telling you to try updating firmware. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Mar 28, 2023 |
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Mar 28, 2023 15:51
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Darchangel posted:It's worth noting that *wireless* CarPlay over wired CarPlay adds a significant premium to the price of the head unit. For that matter, CarPlay itself bumps it up. The more I hear it, the less I know what's being talked about. Up until now, I've never had a head unit with any sort of proper screen, so this is all new to me. When I'm talking about wireless, I mostly just mean it being able to pick up my Bluetooth. How does that differ from CarPlay or whatever? If it's just a couple hundred from a unit I'll use over the next decade for something a lot more intuitive, I'll pony up the cash. But I don't want to be wired unless I'm charging my phone. Wires are irritating.
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Mar 28, 2023 22:33
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All modern head units support Bluetooth music and calls (varying quality though). Carplay and AA are separate applications that run on your phone and stream to a compatible head unit. All the work is being done by your phone. This fumction comes in both wired (USB) and wireless, and it's down to the compatibility of the head unit. Units that support the wireless Carplay or AA apps are generally more expensive. There are also after market head units that run Carplay or AA on the head u nit, "separate" from the phone IIRC. I have no experience with these though.
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Mar 29, 2023 06:35
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Wireless AA is soooo nice. I've got a rental jeep gladiator, and aside from being absolutely awful to drive the stereo also blares the local hair metal station until it recognizes that my phone is plugged in. Terrible, terrible UI and integration, you have to exit AA to get to your climate controls. We're probably seeing the last of the aftermarket head unit market, as more poo poo is getting driven through the infotainment system.
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Mar 29, 2023 12:03
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Nocheez posted:Wireless AA is soooo nice. I've got a rental jeep gladiator, and aside from being absolutely awful to drive the stereo also blares the local hair metal station until it recognizes that my phone is plugged in. Terrible, terrible UI and integration, you have to exit AA to get to your climate controls. I'm so glad to be rid of touch screen controls and capacative touch controls.
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Mar 29, 2023 13:32
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So the general consensus is that CarPlay is a good thing? This is a car I will drive until it explodes, so I'm not too torn up at the thought of making an investment in whatever head unit I'll be loving around with for the next decade or so.
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Mar 29, 2023 17:04
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MrOnBicycle posted:All modern head units support Bluetooth music and calls (varying quality though) Nocheez posted:We're probably seeing the last of the aftermarket head unit market, as more poo poo is getting driven through the infotainment system.
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Mar 29, 2023 17:53
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