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Good to see bike shops in Japan are just like ones these days in North America where they basically have tools in the shop just to assemble stuff so they can sell it.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:26
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Would you want to commit seppuku over scratching someone’s Domane? A Domane 3? I wouldn’t either.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:52
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VelociBacon posted:Good to see bike shops in Japan are just like ones these days in North America where they basically have tools in the shop just to assemble stuff so they can sell it. The one we worked in we bodged so much stuff together with what we could find in our poo poo bin, a bench grinder, and a dremel. I miss it, too bad it paid nothing and customers got more lovely.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:55
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Heliosicle posted:The body itself is held on by a seal iirc, so it could be that it wasn't properly seated before which is why it fell off so easily. I can pull my DT hub body off fairly easily but there's some resistance before it comes loose. A tiny o-ring in the DS endcap is mostly what's holding the freehub assembly against the hub shell. It can wear out pretty quickly, but when brand new they are surprisingly tight.
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Mar 9, 2023 05:06
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hadji murad posted:
Pretty sure these Engineer screw removal pliers are made in Japan. They’ve been my go to for all the stuck bullshit that used to result in normal pliers slipping and pinching my skin. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07678B78G
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Mar 10, 2023 12:49
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I've replaced both the discs and pads on my bike, it runs avid bb7 cable calipers. I used all genuine parts and now regardless of how I adjust them they groan like mad when used, far worse than the old set despite them having contaminated pads and scored up discs. Am I meant to clean the brand new discs with solvent or something? Is there something else I'm missing? The groaning is insanely loud, as if the discs are touching hard parts (they aren't I checked).
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Mar 11, 2023 07:20
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Slavvy posted:I've replaced both the discs and pads on my bike, it runs avid bb7 cable calipers. I used all genuine parts and now regardless of how I adjust them they groan like mad when used, far worse than the old set despite them having contaminated pads and scored up discs. Am I meant to clean the brand new discs with solvent or something? Is there something else I'm missing? The groaning is insanely loud, as if the discs are touching hard parts (they aren't I checked). Are you using resin pads or metallic pads? Maybe try switching to the opposite to see if that helps. Groaning IIRC is high frequency vibration so I'm not sure if you can do a lot besides change compound and let them bed in.
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Mar 11, 2023 07:31
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Slavvy posted:I've replaced both the discs and pads on my bike, it runs avid bb7 cable calipers. I used all genuine parts and now regardless of how I adjust them they groan like mad when used, far worse than the old set despite them having contaminated pads and scored up discs. Am I meant to clean the brand new discs with solvent or something? Is there something else I'm missing? The groaning is insanely loud, as if the discs are touching hard parts (they aren't I checked). Have you fully bedded the new discs in? https://youtu.be/BWQxGzHQZVU
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Mar 11, 2023 07:50
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VelociBacon posted:Are you using resin pads or metallic pads? Maybe try switching to the opposite to see if that helps. Groaning IIRC is high frequency vibration so I'm not sure if you can do a lot besides change compound and let them bed in. They are sintered metallic, it's the exact same part number the bike came with. Heliosicle posted:Have you fully bedded the new discs in? I thought about this but I'm worried about loving up by brand new discs by just riding through a problem if it isn't just them not being bedded in.
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Mar 11, 2023 08:04
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Record a video of the groaning.
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Mar 11, 2023 08:12
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Slavvy posted:Am I meant to clean the brand new discs with solvent or something?
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Mar 11, 2023 08:41
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Invalido posted:Yes. Not sure about your specific discs but all the ones I've ever bought whether for car or bicycle has come coated to some degree with some type of oily or greasy substance. Well gently caress does that mean I've contaminated two brand new sets of pads? I just rode it up the street a couple of times. The discs didn't appear to have anything on them based on my touching the center parts.
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Mar 11, 2023 08:55
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Slavvy posted:Well gently caress does that mean I've contaminated two brand new sets of pads? I just rode it up the street a couple of times. The discs didn't appear to have anything on them based on my touching the center parts. It's certainly a possibility your pads are contaminated now. Had you wiped the discs out of the box with a white rag or paper towel with solvent on it you might have come to a different conclusion about their cleanliness. Then again my impression is that brake noise or not on bicycles apart from cleanliness mainly depends on the luck of the draw, the phase of the moon and who knows what else. But when I had calipers leaking hydraulic fluid onto the pads I sometimes had a squeal so terrible and loud that it was outright shameful, also very bad brake effect. The new not leaky calipers I replaced them with work way better and are much quieter, but not always, depending. Something you can try is to go over the discs with brake cleaner (for good measure) and then bed the pads in by braking hard from speed a few times when they're as wet as possible - water seems to help sometimes getting rid of squeal for some reason. Pouring water from a bottle and hitting the brake at speed is both fun and safe (no it isnt'). Decontaminating pads is a thing people try. I've tried the soak in brake cleaner, then sand the friction surface down a little method, with questionable results at best. Some claim you can bake them in the oven and boil the gunk out, never tried it.
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Mar 11, 2023 09:29
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I’ve purchased a lot of bicycle disc rotors individually and included with groupsets and I don’t think any of them have been coated with goo. Only once have I had an issue after a botched bed-in process where too much material was left on one section of the rotor. That resulted in a strong pulsing feeling during medium braking, but not additional noises.
TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 10:08 on Mar 11, 2023 |
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Mar 11, 2023 09:56
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Invalido posted:Yes. Not sure about your specific discs but all the ones I've ever bought whether for car or bicycle has come coated to some degree with some type of oily or greasy substance. Just checked some new SRAM rotors I have and that's definitely not always the case, mine are totally dry.
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Mar 11, 2023 11:04
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Also chiming in with the “never seen a rotor coated in anything” sentiment
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Mar 11, 2023 11:18
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Honestly the last disc rotor I replaced wasn't very dirty either, not anything like car rotors which are normally greased up to the point of feeling sticky. It was a shimano rotor, but after I took it out of the bag I wiped it down with some solvent out of habit and sure enough, the towel showed a bit of dark something on it. Maybe not enough to contaminate a set of pads, but still not "clean" to my personal working-with-bike-brakes standards of clean at least.
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Mar 11, 2023 11:34
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BB7s are like geese. Strong, good at making cyclists stop, and if you upset them in any way they won't stop loving honking.
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Mar 11, 2023 15:15
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Invalido posted:Some claim you can bake them in the oven and boil the gunk out, never tried it.
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Mar 11, 2023 16:58
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Yeah maybe just bed them in tho
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Mar 11, 2023 17:00
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Unlikely to be contaminated pads, definitely just do since bedding in with water etc.
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Mar 11, 2023 17:20
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I did maintenance on my mountain bike for upcoming spring. I replaced the sealant in my tubeless tires, and it was still a lot and pretty liquid. I poured that stuff in there like half a year ago (first time with tubeless). Would that stuff still have been good, or does it lose its effectiveness eventually? From everything I've heard before, I would have expected cheese curds in the tire or something.
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Mar 11, 2023 17:54
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If the humidity outside the tire is roughly equal to inside, the sealant doesn’t lose water. Everything else will remain suspended, or can be made uniform with some shaking. That said, sealant is relatively cheap, so don’t sweat replacing it with new stuff if you feel like it
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Mar 11, 2023 19:09
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What's more expensive to you another few ounces of sealant or the time you'll spend putting in a tube or the time/money you'll spend paying for a bailout ride if the old sealant doesn't do its job?
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Mar 11, 2023 19:44
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Also chiming in with the “never seen a rotor coated in anything” sentiment 
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Mar 11, 2023 19:48
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Well, not in the before pictures, at least.
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Mar 11, 2023 19:48
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EvilJoven posted:What's more expensive to you another few ounces of sealant or the time you'll spend putting in a tube or the time/money you'll spend paying for a bailout ride if the old sealant doesn't do its job? However, the bottle says the stuff is only good for 4-24 weeks, depending on climate and whatever, and it's Continental, and not some bike brand. That's why I even did it. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Mar 11, 2023 |
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Mar 11, 2023 20:45
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I do end up truing most of my rotors out of the packaging. They're mostly straight, but not perfect, and SRAM calipers + new rotors + new pads does not leave any margin for error.
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Mar 12, 2023 01:30
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My feedback truing stand has a part for disc rotors and it’s great.
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Mar 12, 2023 01:34
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Combat Pretzel posted:However, the bottle says the stuff is only good for 4-24 weeks, depending on climate and whatever, and it's Continental, and not some bike brand. That's why I even did it. The biggest improvement and peace of mind you could make is switching to Orange sealant.
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Mar 12, 2023 14:24
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kimbo305 posted:The biggest improvement and peace of mind you could make is switching to Orange sealant. emptyquote
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Mar 12, 2023 20:43
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Orange seal is good but I'm not a fan of the extra bits of foil or something that they put in there, it gets everywhere whenever I'm cleaning the old stuff out
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Mar 12, 2023 21:15
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Heliosicle posted:Orange seal is good but I'm not a fan of the extra bits of foil or something that they put in there, it gets everywhere whenever I'm cleaning the old stuff out My trick is to never clean the old sealant out. Add more until the tire is worn and then pitch it.
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Mar 13, 2023 07:30
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bicievino posted:My trick is to never clean the old sealant out. Add more until the tire is worn and then pitch it.
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Mar 13, 2023 11:15
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Mar 13, 2023 12:54
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Where would y'all look for 110 bcd chainrings that are specifically NOT narrow-wide and compatible with 7 speed? I'd like to replace the chainrings on my commuter once the snow/ salt clears up and I rebuild the poor thing, and all I can find are for 1x setups or 10-11-12 speed. I'm planning to keep it a 7 speed because I don't want to buy new derailleurs and shifters and I like having two chainrings up front (small for snow, big for clear roads). Is it just an eBay scavenger hunt?
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Mar 18, 2023 21:18
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:Where would y'all look for 110 bcd chainrings that are specifically NOT narrow-wide and compatible with 7 speed? Why not use the 10-speed ones? Otherwise yeah it's eBay or parts bins because no way anyone is going to bother making non-hyperglide double chainrings in tyool 2023. E: let's clarify: a 7-speed freewheel or cassette will work excellently with an 8-speed chain, and so will a matched pair of 10-speed chainrings.
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Mar 18, 2023 21:30
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poo poo I thought I'd measured everything and I'd be fine with the steerer length on some eBay forks but it's about a cm short and definitely below the top bolt. I think the seller was a bit generous with his measurements as well. I'm guessing that's too short to ride safely. Are there any cheap fixes or should I go begging for a return?
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Mar 18, 2023 22:00
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Yeep posted:poo poo Maybe a stem with a less-tall clamp?
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Mar 18, 2023 22:31
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meltie posted:Maybe a stem with a less-tall clamp? Yeah, I could buy something like a DMR Defy35 but that's £40-60. There are cheap Amazon short stack stems but none for 35mm bars. In other Yeep makes bad bike decisions news, the 20mm endcaps I bought for my DT Swiss 240s oversize front hub to convert it for these forks don't fit and don't look anything like the picture in the listing. The part number matches what the DT Swiss website says you need to convert an oversize from QR to 20mm but they've got a screw fitting and my hub's QR caps push in.
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Mar 18, 2023 23:38
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