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Decorus
Aug 26, 2015
Doom guy looks awesome.

Just finished my platoon banner.




I'm pretty satisfied with the results. The skull and numbers turned out a little wonky, but it's not worth trying to fix it. Perfect is the enemy of good, and all that.

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Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Decorus posted:

Doom guy looks awesome.

Just finished my platoon banner.




I'm pretty satisfied with the results. The skull and numbers turned out a little wonky, but it's not worth trying to fix it. Perfect is the enemy of good, and all that.

I think that looks spectacular.
I the slight wonkyness really works for it, historically unit regalia was handmade by the unit, or someone associated with the unit (wives, mothers etc) so they were usually a little rough.

Here's a navy artillery flag from WW2, you can clearly see the hand stitching and rough cuts on the symbols.

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015

Bucnasti posted:

I think that looks spectacular.
I the slight wonkyness really works for it, historically unit regalia was handmade by the unit, or someone associated with the unit (wives, mothers etc) so they were usually a little rough.

Here's a navy artillery flag from WW2, you can clearly see the hand stitching and rough cuts on the symbols.


Thanks!

I hadn't considered the possible hand-made flag angle. I was happy with the results as it was, but now I have an additional explanation for any mistakes. :D Really, the only part that bothers me at all is the rear side 52. Painting curved lines inside the fold was super awkward.

A buddy wanted to see the flag next to the rest of the army, so you get to see it too. It's a nice splash of color among all the muted yellows, greens and browns.



I'll take a better picture once I've finished the bases too. My army is almost 9th edition legal, just in time for the edition switch. :)

War and Pieces
Apr 24, 2022

DID NOT VOTE FOR FETTERMAN
I'm thinking now your guys need handmade mittens and scarves

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Decorus posted:

Thanks!

I hadn't considered the possible hand-made flag angle. I was happy with the results as it was, but now I have an additional explanation for any mistakes. :D Really, the only part that bothers me at all is the rear side 52. Painting curved lines inside the fold was super awkward.

A buddy wanted to see the flag next to the rest of the army, so you get to see it too. It's a nice splash of color among all the muted yellows, greens and browns.



I'll take a better picture once I've finished the bases too. My army is almost 9th edition legal, just in time for the edition switch. :)

That's looking great!

Under 15
Jan 6, 2005

Mr. Helsbecter will you please stop shooting I am on the phone

Yeah, you did a great job with all the regalia and freehand

Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

I like the numbered shoulder pads, gives the batch some character.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Trip report: my Rhino got a bronze medal. Got feedback from the judges which was really insightful and helpful. Looking forward to next years!

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Lumpy posted:

Trip report: my Rhino got a bronze medal. Got feedback from the judges which was really insightful and helpful. Looking forward to next years!

I saw it in the case, you got robbed. That mini was great.

Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

First foray into 32mm scale things with these folks, happy enough with them.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

This is rad, and also he's Classic Doomguy, right?

Totally didn't intend to make him the Doomguy but I cannot deny the total resemblance and now I regret not seeing it early and being able to embrace it by making one side of his face where the scar is all hosed up and bloody. Maybe even making him from a Chapter that has predominantly green armor that I have planned to be in his sub-squad (The Subjugators) instead of the Marines Malevolent.

Decorus posted:

Doom guy looks awesome.

Just finished my platoon banner.

Thanks. Banner is baller.

AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Mar 26, 2023

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord


The last time I printed a Onepagerules mini was a couple years ago and it was extremely mediocre. They've REALLY stepped up their game though, these fish-people-samurai are neat.

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.
Does anyone know of any disposable masks that are graded to protect from paints from rattle cans or airbrushes?

Turbinosamente
May 29, 2013

Lights on, Lights off
Okay, I'm finally sick of using enamel paints. I had intended to use them up on metal objects as the paint adheres better to them, but I can get better control out of acrylics. Do you guys do anything special beyond the priming/painting/sealing step to both ensure acrylics stick to metal and can survive being handled and knocked around a lot? Like I'm talking a lot of knocking around too: people are not kind to their jewelry.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Could you sand the metals down slightly to get better adherence of the primer layer? I swear I've seen on How It's Made where they put metal objects in a drum of specialized rocks and let it spin in there for a few hours to prep for painting.

first result trying to look up how to powder coat, which I know isn't what you're looking for

https://www.canadianmetalworking.co...%20recommended.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
An N95 is good enough to block particulate matter (ie aerosolized acrylic paint) but it does not have an activated carbon filter to block solvents (any organic solvents in a rattlecan). For that you want an R95, which is rated to last for 8 hours of continuous usage in blocking oil-based environments (ie spraying bad poo poo in the air) or a P95 which is rated for 40+ hours depending on manufacturer.

It's like 6 bucks for an individual R95 and a dollar for an N95 so if cost is an issue and you're just airbrushing you can get away with an N95 in a ventilated area but if you can afford it then an R95 that you use for a couple of sessions is probably best. General rule of thumb for when a ventilator you're using for fumes goes bad is when it gets hard to breathe (pores are clogged up) or you start smelling the fumes you're not supposed to smell (carbon filter is used up).

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Spanish Manlove posted:

Could you sand the metals down slightly to get better adherence of the primer layer? I swear I've seen on How It's Made where they put metal objects in a drum of specialized rocks and let it spin in there for a few hours to prep for painting.

first result trying to look up how to powder coat, which I know isn't what you're looking for

https://www.canadianmetalworking.co...%20recommended.

Yeah if you wanna be serious about painting metal, look at how cars are painted, they sand the surface and then use dedicated primers that literally bond to the metal, then paint over the primer. The acrylic and rattle-can primers most people use for miniatures are not much more than paint.

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


Bucnasti posted:

Yeah if you wanna be serious about painting metal, look at how cars are painted, they sand the surface and then use dedicated primers that literally bond to the metal, then paint over the primer. The acrylic and rattle-can primers most people use for miniatures are not much more than paint.

This, I painted metal models when I was a kid, you absolutely need the specific metal primer for getting decent results. As far as I know, nothing is ever going to get acrylics to have the kind of durability you can get from enamel, either.

Turbinosamente
May 29, 2013

Lights on, Lights off
Hrmm, I guess I'll start looking for a metal specific primer then. I did get tamiya spray primer to stick to a metal figure, but I have yet to try painting over it in any serious capacity. Lot's of experimentation ahead, I've got a pin I can try sanding on ahead of time too.

Ez8
Aug 5, 2004

Eej posted:

An N95 is good enough to block particulate matter (ie aerosolized acrylic paint) but it does not have an activated carbon filter to block solvents (any organic solvents in a rattlecan). For that you want an R95, which is rated to last for 8 hours of continuous usage in blocking oil-based environments (ie spraying bad poo poo in the air) or a P95 which is rated for 40+ hours depending on manufacturer.

It's like 6 bucks for an individual R95 and a dollar for an N95 so if cost is an issue and you're just airbrushing you can get away with an N95 in a ventilated area but if you can afford it then an R95 that you use for a couple of sessions is probably best. General rule of thumb for when a ventilator you're using for fumes goes bad is when it gets hard to breathe (pores are clogged up) or you start smelling the fumes you're not supposed to smell (carbon filter is used up).

I would second getting a P95 mask. I keep one next to my painting table and where I store my spray paints so I remember to put it on when I'm doing my thing.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-53P71-Car...s_id=2257619011

The stealth is also a good alternative if you don't want big cartridges on the side of your face.
https://www.amazon.com/STEALTH-Resp...%2C2672&sr=1-24

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
First time back in the hobby I've really built, putting and started painting a unit properly in one go. I'd like some feedback on this scheme;



I think I want to either darken or replace a lot of the red? This is my first time using a Soulblight Grey wash on the basecoat and I think I want to do a pure white highlight first next time.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



What are you all using for paint storage? Are nail polish racks still the good cheap option?

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Funzo posted:

What are you all using for paint storage? Are nail polish racks still the good cheap option?

Nail polish is good, but searching for essential oil holders can be fruitful too. Can depend on the bottle size you want to hold.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



NinjaDebugger posted:

This, I painted metal models when I was a kid, you absolutely need the specific metal primer for getting decent results. As far as I know, nothing is ever going to get acrylics to have the kind of durability you can get from enamel, either.

All I paint are metal miniatures and I can say you definitely don't need metal specific primer. For jewelry, probably. But not for miniatures.

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009

Funzo posted:

What are you all using for paint storage? Are nail polish racks still the good cheap option?
Bespoke disaster of multicolored 3D printed monstrosities. Someday I’ll get around to blasting it all with primer at least to tone down the visual noise

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I see you thought that GW could've done more to make their new miniature holder to look even more of a sex toy and took matters into your own hands

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009

Eej posted:

I see you thought that GW could've done more to make their new miniature holder to look even more of a sex toy and took matters into your own hands

No flared base, let me tell you that’s a mistake I won’t make twice

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Those aren't buttplugs, they're fuckin huggies

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Funzo posted:

What are you all using for paint storage? Are nail polish racks still the good cheap option?

a cheap set of drawers from ikea

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Silhouette posted:

Those aren't buttplugs, they're fuckin huggies



Man, I have distinct memories of these but only just now learned that they are called "Little Hugs"

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Silhouette posted:

Those aren't buttplugs, they're fuckin huggies



drat, I thought I had to be on tiktok to unlock core memories

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Bodanarko posted:

Bespoke disaster of multicolored 3D printed monstrosities. Someday I’ll get around to blasting it all with primer at least to tone down the visual noise

Paint station of Slanesh

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

BizarroAzrael posted:

First time back in the hobby I've really built, putting and started painting a unit properly in one go. I'd like some feedback on this scheme;



I think I want to either darken or replace a lot of the red? This is my first time using a Soulblight Grey wash on the basecoat and I think I want to do a pure white highlight first next time.

I hate to ruin a good mini like this, but man that scheme gives me serious Buzz Lightyear vibes. The red helps to break it up, but I agree that darkening it would help. Dunno if I'd get rid of it entirely, as it helps to break up the large portion of white panels in the armor, but as is the eye is drawn to those bright red sections instead of where you want it to be.

Regarding the highlights, you could still do a pure white edge highlight, then hit it with the Soulblight Grey again, in order to help blend it with the rest of the armor. Could also use a white contrast paint as well, as they're fairly thin and (at least Apothecary White) has a grey tint to it, so it wouldn't stand out any more than the rest of the model. Just keep your layers thin, and it shouldn't affect the overall look in any detrimental way.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I just think you got too many colours going on which is what's giving off the Buzz Lightyear vibe. Red, Green and Purple is one step away from RGB.

imo going with White armour and Red inner suit gives you the option of going monochrome. An example of this is the lovely Elesh Norn from MTG.




With just one colour you can create a very striking scheme. You can pick basically any second colour you want for helmet lenses and plasma, aside from dark blue-purple.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


You might also look at triads. Like, if you're married to the purple hood, make the inner suit a matching darker shade of purple, and make sure the accent pauldron and kneecap are the same shade as each other.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


You might just be able to get away with red and purple if you change the grenades to black/metallic and the chest skull to be the same white as the rest of the armour (just shade it deeper to add definition).

I'd probably change the purple to black as well, and leave the brown leather as-is, it's pretty dark and doesn't clash with anything.

EDIT: After some photoshopping I have changed my mind, I think the purple kinda owns, leave it be.

EDIT 2: You could restrict the purple to cloth elements only and it would add visual pop without overwhelming the scheme:

Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 11:35 on Mar 27, 2023

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
You can have multiple colors, but not multiple saturated colors. That's how you get the kindergarten classroom vibe.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I'm trying to reorganize my paints so I can actually find things. Just out of curiosity do you organize your paints strictly by color, no matter what brand, or do you separate them by brand, then color?

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Finally finished this thing

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Funzo posted:

I'm trying to reorganize my paints so I can actually find things. Just out of curiosity do you organize your paints strictly by color, no matter what brand, or do you separate them by brand, then color?

top drawer: metallics
2nd: blues/greens
3rd: yellows/oranges/reds/purples
4th: black white brown everything in between, skin tones

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