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EasilyConfused posted:Any thoughts? Find a better shop. This is not a flippant response. Whoever you brought it to is clueless or didn't want the work.
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Mar 28, 2023 23:18
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STR posted:Brake pads are one thing where asbestos is still legal, you really don't want to sand them. He is in Australia, the sale or import of *anything* with asbestos is straight out illegal with no exceptions. If he's in NZ at the moment, the same applies there with a few exceptions (none being being car parts) It's still small particles that the lungs wont like so still not a great idea without good respirator. slothrop posted:Nope, literally drove 100 metres from the car wash to home. Makes me wonder if there is some fuckery with the electonic handbrake. My guess is something in the liquids the brake pads were exposed to started a reaction that managed to "glue" the pads to the rotor (OR existing brake dust was washed into the space between the pad and rotor and hardened). I've heard of similar things happening - but that was with say non-metallic pads from many years ago which is why I'm in the habit of dragging the brakes for a bit after a car wash to clean off the surface of the rotor's pads / evap any fluids.
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Mar 28, 2023 23:56
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:He is in Australia, the sale or import of *anything* with asbestos is straight out illegal with no exceptions. If he's in NZ at the moment, the same applies there with a few exceptions (none being being car parts) Thanks CT and others for all the input. I dropped it off with the mechanic this morning and he's as baffled as everyone else. He suggested possibly the pads could have been very cheap. I've only had the car for ~4 months/8000km so I'm not sure what parts were used last time they were changed. The last service was done by the company I purchased the car off (Cars24), so it's not out of the question they are using the cheapest possible pads. Fingers crossed it's a cheap(ish) fix and it's as simple as a pair each of rotors and pads.
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Mar 29, 2023 00:24
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EasilyConfused posted:Hello, I know almost nothing about cars despite driving for twenty years. I mean, probably does have some sort of drain, but you can get a battery tender for less than $100 that will keep it healthy. Or buy a quick disconnect terminal.
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Mar 29, 2023 01:08
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:He is in Australia Sounds like somebody doesn't like freedom
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Mar 29, 2023 01:29
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Which supercharger is this Doesn't look like a McCullough
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Mar 29, 2023 02:18
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Motronic posted:Find a better shop. Probably the latter. I've generally found them a pretty reliable place, but they're crazy busy these days. Wonderllama posted:I mean, probably does have some sort of drain, but you can get a battery tender for less than $100 that will keep it healthy. Or buy a quick disconnect terminal. Thanks, I'll look into those.
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Mar 29, 2023 02:31
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Hadlock posted:Which supercharger is this Rootes?
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Mar 29, 2023 02:39
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Hadlock posted:Which supercharger is this
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Mar 29, 2023 03:10
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EasilyConfused posted:Probably the latter. I've generally found them a pretty reliable place, but they're crazy busy these days. Does your car have any aftermarket components? Stuff like stereo, amps, subwoofer, lights, alarm, keyless entry, etc. If it does, they need to rule out the alternator/grounds being faulty and then that's going to be the most likely source of a slow draw while the car is off/parked.
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Mar 29, 2023 04:54
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EasilyConfused posted:Hello, I know almost nothing about cars despite driving for twenty years. My dad's 2005 G35 Coupe had lojack installed at the dealership and it's had a parasitic drain forever. He bought a little flexible solar panel and just leaves it on the dash, plugged into the fuse box or something, to keep the battery charged.
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Mar 29, 2023 05:02
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EasilyConfused posted:Hello, I know almost nothing about cars despite driving for twenty years. E: whoops missed the new page, sorry if I repeat anything anyone else said. You have a parasitic draw, which is one of the harder, more time consuming things to diagnose. There are no easy answers, it really needs proper diagnosis. Now, based on the little information you've given in your post it could also be that your charging circuit has a problem and your battery isn't charging properly, making a normal parasitic draw deplete the battery. Or that the new battery is also bad. But again that comes down to doing a proper diagnosis. (Test battery, test charging circuit, measure parasitic draw and find source) I would be looking for a different shop to diagnose this problem, or at least discuss it with the original shop in more detail to ask what exactly did they check and how, and what possible next steps could be, instead of just "welp didn't find anything, bye". But again your post was a little (lot) light on details so I don't want to fault the shop right away. But they're looking kinda sus in a "don't want to deal with it" kinda way. Here's a couple examples of someone diagnosing a parasitic draw, don't take this as equivalent to your car, but an example of a diagnostic approach to parasitic draws: https://youtu.be/bS6xak6Xmyo https://youtu.be/2gR7SJ0uDZQ https://youtu.be/vkaJ_NJyqQs His channel has a lot of examples of diagnosing parasitic draws and his diagnostic approach is one of the best I've seen on YouTube. But as you can see it's a time consuming and somewhat complicated process so it takes a more experienced technician to achieve results. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Mar 29, 2023 |
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Mar 29, 2023 05:08
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I'm not a Car Guy and I'm cheap when it comes to cars so I've been driving junkers for my whole adult life. I've had a few wheel bearings go bad on me before. This last one on the rear axle of my current Korean poo poo box was something else though. I heard a rhythmic chirp driving in a tunnel a few weeks ago and felt some warmth on the left rear hub so I ordered a bearing assembly right away. The opportunity to replace is didn't come for a few weeks but I don't drive this car much at all so I figured I had some time since wheel bearings tend to fail pretty slowly and progressively in my experience. Not this one though. Call it 200 km of driving after I heard the chirp I started hearing apocalyptic noises. Pops and pings when backing up, growling when cornering, crunching when braking. Also heat, lots and lots of heat. Not brake heat but hub heat. I limped the car straight to the garage very gingerly after this drive needless to say, fearing that the wheel would lock up or fall off, judging by the noises. Yesterday I finally got the car on bro's lift (which had been occupied thus the delay). No play in the bearing, no crunch or roughness. A slight tick sometimes when changing direction while spinning it is all I could feel. I started suspecting I had been wrong and that the parking brake (drum inside disc) was hosed, but that was fine. Now the bearing is replaced (thanks bro!) and while I've only driven on it 20 meters since then it sure sounds like it's fixed now. So what gives? The only thing I can think of is that I've ground at least one steel ball to dust in there but the races are still mostly okay or something? I'm not used to bearings failing in this way.
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Mar 29, 2023 05:34
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It could be that things were better without the weight of the car on the hub. But I know gently caress all about cars. At least, if it doesn't involve the powertrain.
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Mar 29, 2023 07:01
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VelociBacon posted:Does your car have any aftermarket components? Stuff like stereo, amps, subwoofer, lights, alarm, keyless entry, etc. If it does, they need to rule out the alternator/grounds being faulty and then that's going to be the most likely source of a slow draw while the car is off/parked. Nope, all stock. spankmeister posted:E: whoops missed the new page, sorry if I repeat anything anyone else said. The battery has been tested by AAA when they jump started me once and they said it seemed fine. I'm not sure what testing (if any) the shop did.
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Mar 29, 2023 12:50
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EasilyConfused posted:The battery has been tested by AAA when they jump started me once and they said it seemed fine. I'm not sure what testing (if any) the shop did. I wouldn't go by what the AAA guy said. How old is the battery, there should be a date on the top of it.
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Mar 29, 2023 14:05
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EasilyConfused posted:Nope, all stock. You could also have a bad alternator. Get it to a shop that will do some serious troubleshooting on it.
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Mar 29, 2023 14:36
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You can take it to your local advance auto/autozone etc and they will test the battery and alternator for free, it's a pretty simple process, but I would say if the battery is over four years old just go ahead and replace it anyway.
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Mar 29, 2023 14:40
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EasilyConfused posted:Nope, all stock. We gave you plenty of options. I suggest doing one of them. Keep us posted!
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Mar 29, 2023 18:49
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This is a very stupid question, but where do I buy a random truck part? I just bought a used pickup and the third brake light lens is broken. I see that carparts.com has one they say fits. Is that where you go to get stuff like this? Im handy, but Ive never worked on a car, so the only car parts place I could name is autozone, and they dont have the part I need.
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Mar 29, 2023 21:31
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Graniteman posted:This is a very stupid question, but where do I buy a random truck part? I just bought a used pickup and the third brake light lens is broken. I see that carparts.com has one they say fits. Is that where you go to get stuff like this? Im handy, but Ive never worked on a car, so the only car parts place I could name is autozone, and they dont have the part I need. The quick answer is ebay. Search for "[Year] [Make] [Model] third brake light" and you'll probably find a few people selling what you need. For cheaper, find a local pull-a-part scrap yard and see if they have the truck there. You can search for it on https://row52.com/. edit: oh poo poo yeah that too vvvv Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Mar 29, 2023 |
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Mar 29, 2023 21:35
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rockauto.com
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Mar 29, 2023 21:39
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Generally rockauto is the best place to start, they tend to have great prices and a good selection. The UI is a little outdated, but that honestly adds to the charm for me.
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Mar 29, 2023 22:19
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I wouldn't go by what the AAA guy said. How old is the battery, there should be a date on the top of it. Battery was replaced last Fall. spankmeister posted:We gave you plenty of options. I suggest doing one of them. Keep us posted! Sure did, thanks all! A friend lent me a plug-in battery charger that should cover me (once I buy an extension cord long enough) until I get this sorted out.
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Mar 29, 2023 22:19
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Awesome thank you Ill check rock auto and eBay
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Mar 29, 2023 22:59
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eBay motors has the advantage that they also sponsor hilarious YouTube channels like grind hard plumbing Co. Apparently their mobile app is really good
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Mar 29, 2023 23:11
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ah but if you order parts from rock auto you might get a cool fridge magnet
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Mar 29, 2023 23:25
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How did old timey cruise controls work for carbureted cars? Were there any designs that weren't particularly fiery death traps? Presumably they were 100% mechanical with no speedo/brake safety interlock
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Mar 30, 2023 03:47
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Hadlock posted:How did old timey cruise controls work for carbureted cars? I had an after-market cruise control on an old VW. It was a cable that controlled the throttle and just held it in one spot - so not constant speed, just constant throttle. It was connected to the brake, though. ETA: We had an '83 Escort that was carbureted and had cruise control from the factory. It actually maintained a reasonably constant speed. It had a speed sensor and a vacuum-powered throttle control. The buttons were on the steering wheel and looked and functioned identically to modern ones. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Mar 30, 2023 |
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Mar 30, 2023 03:51
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Hadlock posted:How did old timey cruise controls work for carbureted cars? A lot of people used a stick between the pedal and the dashboard.
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Mar 30, 2023 04:00
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Hadlock posted:How did old timey cruise controls work for carbureted cars? I had a 75 Jeep Cherokee with cruise control. It had a brake cutout switch. Speed was maintained by a bellows receiving a manifold pressure signal that opened the throttle as engine load increased.
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Mar 30, 2023 04:53
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The VW sounds mildly jury riggable with a friction cleat, except my carb throttle is the rotating kindMr. Wiggles posted:A lot of people used a stick between the pedal and the dashboard. This sounds like the fiery death trap kind
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Mar 30, 2023 06:20
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Hadlock posted:This sounds like the fiery death trap kind Not if you use a non-flammable stick.
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Mar 30, 2023 06:39
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I mostly just keep kerosene and roman candles of varying length in the vehicle
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Mar 30, 2023 06:53
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Sensible.
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Mar 30, 2023 07:04
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Hadlock posted:How did old timey cruise controls work for carbureted cars? My 80 F-150 had factory cruise. Relied on engine vacuum to sense load, had a second cable going to the carb from a bellows-looking thing, was fairly accurate. And it did shut off if you tapped the brakes, it just didn't snap off immediately (took about half a second to fully let off). Controls were pretty much the same as a modern system, except I don't remember it having a light on the dash to show if it was on or engaged.  (pics stolen from an ebay auction...) No neutral safety or anything, so if you bumped it into neutral it would just go WOT as your speed decreased instead of dropping to idle (even my manual transmission Saturn knew if I'd knock it into neutral). None of the fancy stuff that modern cars do like downshift going downhill to maintain speed. I think I remember it not working below ~20-25ish, like most cars, so I assume it had a VSS on the back of the speedometer. There were plenty of aftermarket cruise control kits back then that I'm pretty sure just relied on engine RPM. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Mar 30, 2023 |
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Mar 30, 2023 10:48
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That wheel is badass
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Mar 30, 2023 11:54
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It's the same one I had in my 80 F-150 (to be exact, 80 F-150 Ranger XLT standard cab long bed, 351M, C6 auto, P/S, factory AC, dual 19 gallon tanks, factory tow option), though mine was much rougher and the horn didn't work - I wound up doing the redneck thing and clamping a horn button onto the wheel. The dash had a lot of fake woodgrain. Also a VFD trip timer + clock. Somehow being basically the high end trim, it had manual locks and windows (and instead of replacing the window regulator, I'd buy a new window handle every 6 months or so when I'd finally snap the handle), but I don't know if they even made those an option until 81 or 82? Dashpad was absolute garbage with holes in it (nothing a dashpad couldn't fix), rest of the interior was actually in good shape (carpet w/cloth seats and vinyl trim on the seats). But this was in 1994, and it already had sad cab mounts. That whole thing was already beat down so bad.. and that was before I got my teenage hands on it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:20 on Mar 30, 2023 |
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Mar 30, 2023 12:13
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Hadlock posted:I mostly just keep kerosene and roman candles of varying length in the vehicle I remember being in my automotive class in high school, the ceramics teacher was getting his oil changed and showing off how he converted the back of his Ram 1500 into a camper setup, complete with a propane powered grill. When I asked him what would happen if he got rear-ended, he looked at the back of his truck and trailed off. Next time I said hi to him in the hallway he avoided eye contact and ducked into the nearest room.
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Mar 30, 2023 13:07
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DildenAnders posted:I remember being in my automotive class in high school, the ceramics teacher was getting his oil changed and showing off how he converted the back of his Ram 1500 into a camper setup, complete with a propane powered grill. When I asked him what would happen if he got rear-ended, he looked at the back of his truck and trailed off. Probably jack poo poo if he had a propane cylinder with the valve closed. Those things are durable.
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Mar 30, 2023 13:26
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