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Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Is there a competitor to the XL with regard to multi-toolhead? Like 3+ tools.

Not a fan of the purge heavy style like Bambu.

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TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

mewse posted:

Yeah essentially. I think the frame is the same. The full upgrade kit has the new electronics, the nextruder module with quick disconnects, and the higher resolution motors for X/Y

Looks like the upper frame and y carriage (seen in the video) have been rigidized.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

TerminalSaint posted:

Looks like the upper frame and y carriage (seen in the video) have been rigidized.


It's one cast piece now, isn't it?

Talorat
Sep 18, 2007

Hahaha! Aw come on, I can't tell you everything right away! That would make for a boring story, don't you think?
At the very least it seems like Bambu now has solid competition at the 800 dollar price point of the P1P. I will be very curious to see if the MMU3 doesn’t suck

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

Bondematt posted:

It's one cast piece now, isn't it?

The upper part appears to be, it looks like the lower section is still aluminum extrusions, not much need to change them.

Viper915
Sep 18, 2005
Pokey Little Puppy

WhiteHowler posted:

My MK3S+ arrives tomorrow, and it's already obsolete. :negative:

(Just kidding, it'll be awesome... But I wish I'd waited about a week.)

Edit: Honestly, looking at it more... I may just return it despite getting absolutely slammed on shipping charges. The MK4S looks so much better, plus the thing I bought that hasn't been delivered yet now costs $180 less.

I feel you, I just ordered a mk3s+ for the black Friday deal, it came right before Xmas. I mean I like it, but now I'm feeling pretty envious

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

Well the neptune 3 pro arrived and after a quick and painless setup started printing beautifully.



Still figuring everything out but its a blast already. My wife has already hogged the print queue due to an abundance of cool things she already found. Super fun so far.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
Is anyone here running windows 11 and able to connect to an Ender 3 via USB? I've tried quite a few things to no avail, and while I can go dig out an old machine and set it up, I would prefer to get this working on my laptop. Windows doesn't appear to detect it at all. I've grabbed the various driver bundles folks suggest, manually added a legacy device for it through Device manager, tried several different USB cables, basically all the things I can find suggested online.

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

Not sure if you’ve already tried it but either plug it into a USB2 port or run it through a USB2 hub - sometimes older USB devices don’t work right on USB3 ports.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Kalman posted:

Not sure if you’ve already tried it but either plug it into a USB2 port or run it through a USB2 hub - sometimes older USB devices don’t work right on USB3 ports.

I haven't tried that. Let me see if I even have a USB2 hub... This laptop doesn't have any USB2 ports.

Scratch that, it appears to have been the cable. 5th cable was the charm.

armorer fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Mar 29, 2023

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



Son of Rodney posted:

Well the neptune 3 pro arrived and after a quick and painless setup started printing beautifully.



Still figuring everything out but its a blast already. My wife has already hogged the print queue due to an abundance of cool things she already found. Super fun so far.

Glad it's working out for you! I was very impressed with mine out of the box as well!

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

TerminalSaint posted:

Looks like the upper frame and y carriage (seen in the video) have been rigidized.


Prusa seems like they're being coy about if the upgrade kits include the improved frame.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Viper915 posted:

I feel you, I just ordered a mk3s+ for the black Friday deal, it came right before Xmas. I mean I like it, but now I'm feeling pretty envious

There's something in the blog announcement about recent purchases of MK3 automatically getting a credit. Also there is the ability to convert an XL preorder into a priority MK4.

So reach out to them by all means.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Also it's nice to hear that the MK4 (and its components) have been churning away for ages by now in the Prusa print farm; that gives me a lot of added confidence in them being solid with kinks worked out.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Talorat posted:

I will be very curious to see if the MMU3 doesn’t suck

It actually tells the printer what's wrong
and displays error messages

That's already infinitely better than the MMU2

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



The awesome sunlu resin is back in Canada under the jayo brand if anyone was looking for it. poo poo prints so loving good

AlternateAccount
Apr 25, 2005
FYGM
Yeah so I just cleared the BLtouch data, meticulously leveled my bed the old fashioned way with a piece of paper, and then had it print some nonsense while I manually tweaked the z-offset.

Easy and works well now. I have a glass bed. It ain’t gonna be substantially out of flatness. Screw this automatic crap. At least this variant.

mewse
May 2, 2006

Hypnolobster posted:

Prusa seems like they're being coy about if the upgrade kits include the improved frame.

I'm thinking the old frame is functionally the same (same dimensions + screw holes) and the upgrade kit doesn't include the new one

PeePot
Dec 1, 2002


I just installed my replacement Revo heater core yesterday.

So if I get the MK4 upgrade kit I'm stuck with a practically unused Revo, 3 nozzles, original used v6, and half an MK3S in a box?

Getting an entire MK4 seems like the only logical decision.
Conversion rate, shipping and taxes to Canada is...ugh
Have to wait for local availability.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
I don't have my free ender 3 pro yet to frankenstein, but in the interim I'm trying to debug an issue that I have with my existing ender 3 pro that comes up every now and then. If I print something that has a thin, exposed base, I get the sharp "too close to the bed" corduroy effect on the top surface of it. The first layer goes down smoothly, but with the layers after that it gets more and more pronounced. Anything with infill doesn't have the problem, presumably because the excess filament has somewhere to go, but solid flat bottom sections will generally have it.

My first thought was that I must be overextruding slightly, so I checked e-steps and I extruded 99.3 mm of filament with the command to extrude 100, so that's not it. I checked the filament thickness, and it's correct. I printed a calibration cube from here https://3dprintbeginner.com/flow-rate-calibration/ and the single layer base is nice and flat, and the walls measured .81mm, so pretty damned close to perfect. The overall cube size is also pretty damned close to 30mm.

I turned off combing and it didn't resolve it. Anyone have any suggestions for other things I can try?

Edit: Here's a photo of it, this is at the top of the 4th base layer of a print. I scratched some of it back, but the part of the right is unmolested.

armorer fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Mar 30, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Presumably by the end of the week someone will have an adapter for the ender 3 series and I can order a nextruder for my ender 3 v2, once the nextruder stuff get spliced in to marlin/j3ryl or whatever

Presumably the weakest link on my e3v2 at that point will be the power supply trying to keep up with the nextruder's volumetric (melting?) capacity

Still sitting on my 5 tool preorder, but not sure how much time I have for designing melt-away supports etc with a toddler crawling all over me now, and not sounding like laser engraving is going to be a feature coming out in the first year

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

So my Neptune 3 pro is working well so far, only small complaint I have is the noise level of the print head fans. They sit at roughly 50db on average, which I realise is not that bad, but definitly distracting since we have it in our office/living room where we spend most of our time.

Easiest obvious solution I found would be an enclosure. Do the fabric enclosures by for example creality make any difference, or do I need to build something more fancy? Any other solutions I'm overlooking?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I don't think you're going to tell any difference in noise level with a fabric enclosure, although you might be able to measure it with a decibel meter

mewse
May 2, 2006

Son of Rodney posted:

Do the fabric enclosures by for example creality make any difference

I just got one of those cheap ender enclosures - it's air tight and reduces fan noise a small amount.

I've watched videos of people replacing ender fans with winnsinn fans from amazon for significant noise reduction.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Helped my school set up their new 3D printers, they bought some nice Flashforge ones with dual heads. My background is a temperamental Ender 3 I bought semi-broken so it was pretty impressive to see how easy they were to set up, how quickly the hotends heat up, etc.

What ways are there to optimise when running two heads? I don't think they will be doing many two colour prints, so I was thinking one with a larger nozzle and one with a smaller one; I'm guessing slicers can optimise this so it can use the bigger nozzle to spit out big, uncomplicated stuff and use the other one for detail. They do have two printers though, so could set one up for smaller detailed pieces and one up for bigger, structural ones. Or is there something else I should be thinking about?

I have no idea what they're going to be using them for, I don't think the department quite does either, lol.

Son of Rodney
Feb 22, 2006

ohmygodohmygodohmygod

mewse posted:

I just got one of those cheap ender enclosures - it's air tight and reduces fan noise a small amount.

I've watched videos of people replacing ender fans with winnsinn fans from amazon for significant noise reduction.

That's the one I mean. I'll either get that one or build an enclosure from an Ikea platsa I guess. Both relatively cheap.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

Most of what you mentioned is irrelevant. If you are too close to the bed, you are too close to the bed

In no particular order:

Z height
First layer height
First layer extrusion
Overall extrusion ratio

With all of the above, if you are only obsessed with getting the first layer to stick, you end up lowering z, but you still might be pushing too much stuff out for the layer to handle.

You tuned your extrusion steps, but I had to turn my overall extrusion ratio down to .84 from 1 and all my issues went away.

Follow the ellis tuning guide. You can largely ignore anything around speed on a non voron, but you definitely need to print some squares and test your z, then do some extrusion cubes. Speeds you can add to later, but absolutely make sure your volumetric limit is set so you can never outrun your hotend

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!
Here's what Prusa offered me after I asked about buying a MK3S+ that was still in transit when the 4S was announced:

quote:

Hello,

If your MK3 was shipped within the last month, you will automatically receive a 150 USD voucher per kit and a 200 USD per assembled printer. This covers the difference between the lowered priced and your price.

You can use the voucher towards an upgrade, for example:)

Have a nice day!

Yeaaaaah, I know legally they could just offer absolutely nothing. But the 4S upgrade kit is $579 and won't be available until June. Plus I'd have to assemble it after paying for a pre-assembled printer.

I'm just going to return all this poo poo when it gets here later today. I was excited, but now I might wait a few more years before I get into 3D printing.

insta
Jan 28, 2009
lol what kind of tantrum is this?

"I got into a rapidly growing field and my product was quickly obsoleted by a new model :cry:"

The Mk3s prints fine. It printed fine before the Mk4, it will print fine after the Mk4. The existence of the Mk4 does not change how the Mk3s prints at all. Your purchase is not a bad one.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Buying a printer these days is a lot like buying a computer has always been. There's always something newer and better right around the corner, and waiting to do a "future proof" purchase is just going to leave you waiting forever.

The timing with the Prusa thing is kind of lovely right now, no argument there, but you can also turn around and buy any number of sub-$300 Chinese printers these days and be cranking perfectly good stuff out in no more than transit time + 30 minutes of assembly. Or keep the Prusa and do the same thing with better quality and higher reliability.


eta - the Mk3 isn't even obsoleted, it's just been superseded by a new model. It's like being angry about more modern versions of your 2017 Camry existing.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Mar 30, 2023

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
One big advantage of that MK3S is that you can upgrade it at your own pace, and there'll be an upgrade path from it beyond the MK4 to whatever revisions of the 4 they release later (and possibly even to the 5 and whatever comes after). I'd stick with the MK3S to learn on, get the MK3.5 upgrade in June for $50 to get the majority of the nice upgrades like the better screen and the print speed upgrades, then decide from there whether it'd be worth it to you for the fancier extruder and motors.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Roundboy posted:

Most of what you mentioned is irrelevant. If you are too close to the bed, you are too close to the bed

In no particular order:

Z height
First layer height
First layer extrusion
Overall extrusion ratio

With all of the above, if you are only obsessed with getting the first layer to stick, you end up lowering z, but you still might be pushing too much stuff out for the layer to handle.

You tuned your extrusion steps, but I had to turn my overall extrusion ratio down to .84 from 1 and all my issues went away.

Follow the ellis tuning guide. You can largely ignore anything around speed on a non voron, but you definitely need to print some squares and test your z, then do some extrusion cubes. Speeds you can add to later, but absolutely make sure your volumetric limit is set so you can never outrun your hotend

I'll go through that guide, but the thing about being too close to the bed is that I'm not really too close to the bed. The first layer is pristine, and if I back off much from where it is I get separation between lines. Also my calibration cube dimensions and wall widths are spot on. I may need to dial back my overall extrusion ratio ("flow" percentage in cura, assuming we're talking about the same thing?) and I was already planning to run some tests with it at 95, 90, etc.

The thing that has me scratching my head is that I only get this issue with multi-layer solid base areas.


Edit: Here is an example cube. The walls and overall dimensions measure true within .01 or .02 mm with digital calipers, and the single bottom layer in there is smooth and has no gaps. The small blips on the corners are from the randomized z-seam location

armorer fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Mar 30, 2023

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



Yeah the prusas may be on the expensive side but they're like those old Toyota trucks that just won't die even after 30 years in the desert.

You still got a good deal

WhiteHowler
Apr 3, 2001

I'M HUGE!

insta posted:

lol what kind of tantrum is this?

"I got into a rapidly growing field and my product was quickly obsoleted by a new model :cry:"

The Mk3s prints fine. It printed fine before the Mk4, it will print fine after the Mk4. The existence of the Mk4 does not change how the Mk3s prints at all. Your purchase is not a bad one.

If the 4S were a small upgrade I'd just deal with it, but it's better in almost every conceivable way, for about the same price, and was announced days after I bought mine and before it even showed up.

I'm aware nothing is future-proof (I've been building gaming PCs for 30 years), but the timing is so bad it's making me reconsider whether it's the right time to get into the 3D printing space.

Edit: Not worth being lovely about.

WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Mar 30, 2023

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

WhiteHowler posted:

I'm aware nothing is future-proof (I've been building gaming PCs for 30 years), but the timing is so bad it's making me reconsider whether it's the right time to get into the 3D printing space.

Everything new on the MK4 is an incremental improvement on the MK3S, there isn't anything radically different about the underlying technology and there isn't anything you will be able to print with a MK4+MMU3 that you couldn't already make with a MK3S+MMU2

Bobulus
Jan 28, 2007

The hot-swappable hotend on the extruder seems like a nice feature, but seems like a lot of the electronic upgrades are equivalent to running an octoprint, which I already do. I think I'll stick with my 3S+ for now, and worry about upgrades if my current extruder ever has a catastrophic failure.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

insta posted:

lol what kind of tantrum is this?

"I got into a rapidly growing field and my product was quickly obsoleted by a new model :cry:"

The Mk3s prints fine. It printed fine before the Mk4, it will print fine after the Mk4. The existence of the Mk4 does not change how the Mk3s prints at all. Your purchase is not a bad one.


Re: price drop, if you just bought an MK3 you'll get like a $150 credit for the price difference between your purchase and the new price.

quote:

Q: I have just received my MK3S+ and now it is cheaper. Is there something you can do for me?

A: If your MK3 was ordered and paid within the 30 days before this announcement, you will receive a voucher that compensates you for the price difference between MK3S+ now and then (e.g., if you have an order in USD, you will get a 150 USD voucher per kit and a 200 USD voucher per assembled printer, and so on…). You will get these vouchers via e-mail by the end of this week.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Also, I got bit by that faulty fan issue on my X1C and hooooly poo poo the replacement looks like such a pain in the rear end.
That part sure looks like it was never intended to have to be replaced.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-mc-board-fan

PeePot
Dec 1, 2002


If it was me I would definitely return it and get the MK4. It's way more than just a tiny upgrade.

As someone who lost a hotend to a blob of death. The Nextruder with the longer heartbreak would prevent that.
Quick swap nozzles, that most likely cost a lot less than the patented Revo system I bought for my MK3.
Auto bed focusing. Not having to do the Live Adjust Z ever again! One less thing to worry about and waste time on when you change nozzles or switch sheets.

The upgraded electronics means not having to source a Raspberry Pi and install Octoprint to avoid using an SD card.
The screen on the MK3 is archaic.

Upgrade kits don't come with the new dampening frame, thicker z rods, and you have to print your own parts.

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Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Let me say- the upgraded screen is nice

And I am incredibly, wildly glad that it is not a touch screen.
I hate using touch screens on printers.

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