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Brrrmph
Feb 27, 2016

Слава Україні!
National Camera Exchange in Minneapolis is great. They have an online shop with less selection than the big guys, but usually better prices. I’ve only gotten good stuff from them and returns are easy. And they have a legit 15-20% off used gear sale 2-3X a year.

Edit: Roberts Camera in Indianapolis is good, too. The used business is Used Photo Pro.

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Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E
Roberts camera and Calagaz are active on eBay. Roberts usually accepts offers 5-7% below listing price via offers but if its a hot item you might not get a response to your offer before someone buys it. Calagaz is good you can just phone them up and offer 10% less than their ebay price and they'll PayPal invoice you with no tax charged.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Achmed Jones posted:

what other used gear shops are there? i just know of mpb, adorama, b&h, ebay, and goodwill. of those, keh is more expensive than mpb, cheaper than b&h and adorama, and a different _thing_ from having to mess with ebay/goodwill

kmcamera.com
camerawest.com
usedphotopro.com
austincamera.com
acephoto.net
victorycamera.com
bluemooncamera.com

edit: jogeier.com

theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Mar 28, 2023

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



thanks y'all!

toadee
Aug 16, 2003

North American Turtle Boy Love Association

Just wanted to pop in and mention, if you shoot with a Fuji X-series digital, and you shoot conventions, like cosplay portraits and stuff, an Instax SP-2 or SP-3 (they are the discontinued models but can be bought cheaply, they are the only ones that work) is amazing. I just took an SP-2 to PAX East and gave cosplayers an instax polaroid when I took their photos and I have never had such a positive reaction in my life. Was really nice to see how a simple little polaroid really added to the experience. At one point I had a line waiting for them. Also a couple of times people thought I was going to charge for them, and like I had somehow guilted them into going along with it and I had to be like "oh geez no I just wanted you to have a photo to take with you!". Put lots of smiles on everyones face anyhow.

Kaewan
May 29, 2008
I did that throughout South America with the og sp1 and a xt1. Good times all around. It’s too bad the wide version has super limited compatibility and is so expensive.

other people
Jun 27, 2004
Associate Christ
I have an Instax Link Wide printer that "prints" on the fuji instax film and it is fantastic.

I wish the app was a bit more polished but it gets the job done.

Kaewan
May 29, 2008
I just wish the Fuji camera app was more stable. Transferring photos from the camera to my phone is a crap shoot. In my experience Fuji camera to Instax was never an issue but the new Instax Wide only works with the XS10 which isn’t on my radar.

Im sure the new hype surrounding the x100v combined with wide prints would send tik tok into a frenzy but alas.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
I accidentally bought two Helios 44-2 lenses. Guess I didn't remember buying one on eBay and bought a second.

So I decided to use one as an experimental lens. I bought a lens tool and watched some YouTube videos and found out how to take apart the lens and flip certain lens elements to make different effects.

The Helios is famous for a circular bokeh effect, but reversing the front lens will intensify that effect a bit. Reversing the front lens and one of the rear lenses will completely blow out the bokeh in an effect that drastically minimizes the area you can find focus to just about the smallest circle of the center of the frame, and some times you can't even get a fully focused portion. Both of these adjustments kill the ability to focus to infinity. Flipping the rear element reverses the focus rotation.

Reversible only one of the rear elements turns it into a macro lens that reduces the minimum focus from 1.5m to about 6in.

It's been fun experimenting with this lens tho!

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



i think it'd be really fun to be able to print small pictures for little jones. but i'm absolutely not gonna spend $1 a pop to do it. do they make photo printers that 1) print smaller-format stuff and 2) are cost-effective compared to just sending it off to shutterfly? it'd be great if they also didn't look like trash

cause shutterfly is _super_ cheap

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



ok i just tried to order prints through shutterfly and it's crashed twice, holy _shit_ this is the worst app i've ever used. i'm so mad at a computer rn. anyway, if any of yall recommend a decent photo printing service, that'd work too!

Achmed Jones fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Mar 28, 2023

Brrrmph
Feb 27, 2016

Слава Україні!
I really like Mpix. Great quality.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Mpix is Millers Professional Imaging's web-facing business. They've been at it forever. They are housed in Kansas just a short trip south of me. They also have a location in Columbia, Missouri. I personally don't have experience with them but have heard good things and I believe they are the provider I'm choosing to sell my art prints online.

Bayphoto is a fantastic business also. They've got a great ROES software if you want to start pumping out lots of images. Highly recommend these people from personal experience.

Another would be White House Custom Color (WHCC). Great online platform and beautiful prints sent quick.

For reference, these three companies are three of the top photo labs in the country that professionals-oriented sites like SmugMug, Zenfolio and Format use as offering for photographers to choose from. I'm sure there's more labs that are great, but the three that seem to be top of the crowd are above.

Viginti Septem fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Mar 28, 2023

JAY ZERO SUM GAME
Oct 18, 2005

Walter.
I know you know how to do this.
Get up.


i used to use white house when i would order prints. that was nearly ten years ago, but they were good, and would do proofing on various papers

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Oh yea, I forgot about the proofing. Both bayphoto and WHCC (not sure on mpix) offer a bundle of proof prints in various media. I remember whcc's being quite a lot of different formats that they let me choose as proofs.

Edit, sorry I was talking about samples.

Achmed Jones
Oct 16, 2004



Thanks yall! I'll check 'em out. I'm looking more for "cheap dumb fun" than "printing Serious Business Photos", but I'll have a look at all of em and see what trips my trigger

TVGM
Mar 17, 2005

"It is not moral, it is not acceptable, and it is not sustainable that the top one-tenth of 1 percent now owns almost as much wealth as the bottom 90 percent"

Yam Slacker

TVGM posted:

Hi thread. I'm looking for a DSLR or mirrorless for photographing artwork up to 24" x 48" for printing. It would also be cool if it could do 4K (edit: or 1080 HDR; is that a thing?) video, but I'm not seeing a lot of options for that with high megapixel count.

It would also be great if the wireless connectivity to get the photos / videos off didn't suck, but I have little hope for that after previously owning a Canon M50, Panasonic G6, and seeing on the previous page that it still a problem in TYOOL 2023. Nikon's looks fine, but :shrug:

torgeaux posted:

Fuji XH2. Wireless for file transfer is OK.

Following up on this, I did purchase the X-H2 with the XF18-80mm F4 kit lens last week.

The main draw for me was Pixel Shift, and I was extremely disappointed with it at first as the combined image output just wasn't sharp when I zoomed in. I only realized today that I needed to further develop it, using Affinity Photo 2 in my case.

I also had the paintings photographed at a local archiving place (they use a Phase One IQ180) so that I could compare the results with Pixel Shift.

The X-H2 does decently against the Phase One in my opinion, but is still a bit fuzzy in the details.
IQ180 (80MP): 1/2s, f/22, ISO 35, 80mm
X-H2 (160MP): 2/5s, f/10, ISO 125 (as low as I can go), 16mm

These are zoomed in about 33%. Phase One is on the left.




Would a lower aperture help clarify it even more, or is that only for subjects with depth?

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Some stuff I'm just now finding.

Thermal paper printer. Could be fun. Won't be photo quality, it's a receipt essentially. But it's portable and wireless and fun looking.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/3546682763...emis&media=COPY

Here's one with bunny ears.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2560218793...emis&media=COPY

Canon apparently makes a version too called the Selphy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2042507894...emis&media=COPY



Then there's the Canon Ivy Mini Photo Printer that looks really cool. Looks like it prints 3x2" color photos on zinc paper (?).



https://www.ebay.com/itm/1858190882...emis&media=COPY

JAY ZERO SUM GAME
Oct 18, 2005

Walter.
I know you know how to do this.
Get up.


i dunno about that lens in particular, but something more like f/8 or f/5.6 is likely in the sweet spot for that lens. the difference isn't going to be world-changing, though.

no four thirds sensors is gonna compete with a medium format back through a medium format lens. you'll just have to decide if what you have is good enough.

your best chance is: tripod, remote release, lowest base ISO (not necessarily the lowest offered), stopped down, shooting RAW and developing in something like what you're already using.

TVGM
Mar 17, 2005

"It is not moral, it is not acceptable, and it is not sustainable that the top one-tenth of 1 percent now owns almost as much wealth as the bottom 90 percent"

Yam Slacker

JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:

i dunno about that lens in particular, but something more like f/8 or f/5.6 is likely in the sweet spot for that lens. the difference isn't going to be world-changing, though.

no four thirds sensors is gonna compete with a medium format back through a medium format lens. you'll just have to decide if what you have is good enough.

your best chance is: tripod, remote release, lowest base ISO (not necessarily the lowest offered), stopped down, shooting RAW and developing in something like what you're already using.

Thanks! I had a feeling the sensor and its format was the big differentiator. I have the tripod, lighting, remote, and exposure nailed down (I think). I'll give the other f/stops a try.

JAY ZERO SUM GAME
Oct 18, 2005

Walter.
I know you know how to do this.
Get up.


alternatively, you could shoot the object in four parts, and stitch them together afterward. As in, zoom in and fill the frame, photographing each quadrant one at a time,

If you're being particularly demanding (I mean, it's art repro, but I dunno your tolerances) you would have to be on it to make sure you are maintaining a perfect 90º to the plane of the object for each shot, but it could work out, and would likely surpass the shear sharpness/resolution of the MF back.

would probably be easiest to move the object around instead of the camera, i could picture a few ways to do it.

TVGM
Mar 17, 2005

"It is not moral, it is not acceptable, and it is not sustainable that the top one-tenth of 1 percent now owns almost as much wealth as the bottom 90 percent"

Yam Slacker

JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:

would probably be easiest to move the object around instead of the camera, i could picture a few ways to do it.

:hmmyes: Good idea. Especially since it's a square canvas.

powderific
May 13, 2004

Grimey Drawer

TVGM posted:

Following up on this, I did purchase the X-H2 with the XF18-80mm F4 kit lens last week.

The main draw for me was Pixel Shift, and I was extremely disappointed with it at first as the combined image output just wasn't sharp when I zoomed in. I only realized today that I needed to further develop it, using Affinity Photo 2 in my case.

I also had the paintings photographed at a local archiving place (they use a Phase One IQ180) so that I could compare the results with Pixel Shift.

The X-H2 does decently against the Phase One in my opinion, but is still a bit fuzzy in the details.
IQ180 (80MP): 1/2s, f/22, ISO 35, 80mm
X-H2 (160MP): 2/5s, f/10, ISO 125 (as low as I can go), 16mm

These are zoomed in about 33%. Phase One is on the left.




Would a lower aperture help clarify it even more, or is that only for subjects with depth?

I'm guessing the you are out resolving the lens, and it also looks like that lens loses sharpness around the aperture you chose compared to more open so you're also using it in a way that makes it weaker anyway: https://www.opticallimits.com/fuji_x/1103_fuji1680f4ois?start=1 I'm not sure how much you can blame on pixel shift here as even just at the native resolution you might have been encountering some softness in the borders especially. You might try a better aperture or a sharper lens.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
You could use a tilt shift lens to create a stitched image. Shifting the lens left to right creating a 90° locked panorama.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TVGM posted:

Following up on this, I did purchase the X-H2 with the XF18-80mm F4 kit lens last week.

The main draw for me was Pixel Shift, and I was extremely disappointed with it at first as the combined image output just wasn't sharp when I zoomed in. I only realized today that I needed to further develop it, using Affinity Photo 2 in my case.

I also had the paintings photographed at a local archiving place (they use a Phase One IQ180) so that I could compare the results with Pixel Shift.

The X-H2 does decently against the Phase One in my opinion, but is still a bit fuzzy in the details.
IQ180 (80MP): 1/2s, f/22, ISO 35, 80mm
X-H2 (160MP): 2/5s, f/10, ISO 125 (as low as I can go), 16mm

These are zoomed in about 33%. Phase One is on the left.




Would a lower aperture help clarify it even more, or is that only for subjects with depth?

I have not yet had a satisfactory image through pixel shift. At 100% each image has either artifacts or some sort of fine detail that has an obvious shift. On the other hand, single shot images are sharp as gently caress and drat the kind of high megapixel you seem to need. Have you looked at any pixel shift tutorials?

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:

alternatively, you could shoot the object in four parts, and stitch them together afterward. As in, zoom in and fill the frame, photographing each quadrant one at a time,

There are adapters out there that assist in that type of shooting, I think fotodiox is the main peddler of such toys:

https://fotodioxpro.com/collections/lens-mount-adapters/adapter-type_shift-adapters

It's a neat idea for static scenes, but I've heard of problems with the resulting images. For example, if the lens you're using has soft corners you might end up with a blob of blurry data smack in the middle of your stitch. Which should be fixable but it's gonna be a manual task in photoshop.

For added comedy, there's another company out there (can't find it at the moment) that does a large format back that you mount a DSLR to. It has guides and stop points where you slide the DSLR around to collect the full image circle. Supposedly that approach works better because you're not rotating the lens but it also assumes you got a field camera on hand to do it with.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Viginti Septem posted:

Some stuff I'm just now finding.

Canon apparently makes a version too called the Selphy.

The Selphy is a fun thing and puts out pretty good drug store quality prints. Good enough for my fridge at least. I recommend it.

Ominous Jazz
Jun 15, 2011

Big D is chillin' over here
Wasteland style
I have one and it makes 4x6* prints but it's not the most portable.
*you lose like... a smidge

the_lion
Jun 8, 2010

On the hunt for prey... :D
I have an aging canon 5dmk2 and L lenses.
Looking at upgrading, and actually considering jumping brands. I mainly shoot event portraits and a lot of corporate headshots -with and without flash (I'm using yongnuo flash guns). I also shoot video occasionally, but have a Blackmagic Pocket 4k for that.

I've never liked Sony colour science, so that's probably not an option for me. At least in the past I haven't been impressed at all.

What I am trying to get an image of is whether switching to Fuji will suit me. The canon r5 is what if go if money was no option. I could use all my current EF lenses, but it's $6k Aus, plus adapter plus cards and all the other stuff. I have looked into Fuji but haven't found if people use converters to use their canon lenses on them.

I'm not in a rush to upgrade, so if newer cameras are coming I'd probably consider that. I love my 5dmk2 but indoors it struggles a bit without flash.

Anyone got any advice for me?

jarlywarly
Aug 31, 2018
Secondhand R6?

TVGM
Mar 17, 2005

"It is not moral, it is not acceptable, and it is not sustainable that the top one-tenth of 1 percent now owns almost as much wealth as the bottom 90 percent"

Yam Slacker

powderific posted:

I'm guessing the you are out resolving the lens, and it also looks like that lens loses sharpness around the aperture you chose compared to more open so you're also using it in a way that makes it weaker anyway: https://www.opticallimits.com/fuji_x/1103_fuji1680f4ois?start=1 I'm not sure how much you can blame on pixel shift here as even just at the native resolution you might have been encountering some softness in the borders especially. You might try a better aperture or a sharper lens.

Thanks for this in-depth technical review link. I also see that Fuji's list of lens that can take advantage of 40MP doesn't have the kit lens they bundle with the camera on the list, which is maddening.

I'm going to try the XF23mmF2 R WR, and Sigma 30mm F1.4 DC DN.

TVGM
Mar 17, 2005

"It is not moral, it is not acceptable, and it is not sustainable that the top one-tenth of 1 percent now owns almost as much wealth as the bottom 90 percent"

Yam Slacker

Kaewan posted:

I just wish the Fuji camera app was more stable. Transferring photos from the camera to my phone is a crap shoot. In my experience Fuji camera to Instax was never an issue but the new Instax Wide only works with the XS10 which isn’t on my radar.

It's been mostly OK for studio transfers. Occasionally the camera will show the number of photos to be transferred, with a pause icon over it. Auto-transfer is on and the app is open on my phone, but nothing happens. Going into Live view shooting on the app and exiting seemed to resolve that issue.

I've also had it only transfer 5 photos at time, wait 30 seconds, and then do another 5. :shrug:

BetterLekNextTime
Jul 22, 2008

It's all a matter of perspective...
Grimey Drawer

jarlywarly posted:

Secondhand R6?

Seconding this. Maybe rent one? I’m assuming you’ve already considered and ruled out a used 5d4.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...

TVGM posted:

Thanks for this in-depth technical review link. I also see that Fuji's list of lens that can take advantage of 40MP doesn't have the kit lens they bundle with the camera on the list, which is maddening.

I'm going to try the XF23mmF2 R WR, and Sigma 30mm F1.4 DC DN.

One quote from a review of the 23mm that stuck out for me was that users may find it too sharp. Really? However, it is sharp as hell.

Mister Speaker
May 8, 2007

WE WILL CONTROL
ALL THAT YOU SEE
AND HEAR
I think I'm ready to take on some more photo editing techniques, as I've gotten about as far as I can with basic highlight/shadows/clarity/vibrance etc. in Lightroom. I saw some posts over on a photography subreddit about using the Levels tool in Photoshop to constrain contrast and really make colours in a picture pop, does anyone know what I'm talking about? Or can anyone point me to some intermediate-level tutorials on develop level settings in Lightroom/Photoshop? Thanks.

Viginti Septem
Jan 9, 2021

Oculus Noctuae
Calibration panel, curves, and HSL beyond what you've already listed.

Don't be afraid to go into areas you've never ventured before. Push those tools to their limits, push them to diametrically opposed directions to each other and see how it affects things.

Then get yourself into masking.

Explore color temp/tint on black and white photos. Then run through the color channels to filter.

There's much much much more that is always able to be learned in Lightroom. Get dirty and ruin a few pictures but find out where the boundaries on things are, it will serve you well in future edits.

xzzy
Mar 5, 2009

Nick Page on youtube might be a useful resource. I think his photos are overprocessed social media bait but his techniques are solid, you just don't have to push the edits as far as he does. He does this thing he calls "dual processing" where he loads a single image into two layers in photoshop and processes it twice: once for the sky, once for the foreground. It's pretty effective for getting into that instagram look.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPoFmUSPsDg

He's got a bunch of other demos sprinkled through his history, that's just the first one I saw that covers his technique.

That said, I feel like the lights/darks sliders in lightroom is more than enough for 99% of photos. If you made a good photo to begin with you won't need to do a bunch of fancy edits even though it's good to know how to do it because it gets you thinking more about color and contrast (which will help your eye in the field).

Mega Comrade
Apr 22, 2004

Listen buddy, we all got problems!
I can never bring myself to do that kind of editing. Not because I think there's anything wrong with it, it's just so much effort for the 8 people who will see my dumb photos.

I really need to consider just going Fuji so I can just rely on jpegs.

harperdc
Jul 24, 2007

Mega Comrade posted:

I really need to consider just going Fuji so I can just rely on jpegs.

To paraphrase a bad quote supposedly from an Ohio State football player, I came here to play photographer not photo editor. It’s definitely a nice part of the Fuji life.

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Slotducks
Oct 16, 2008

Nobody puts Phil in a corner.


Mega Comrade posted:

I really need to consider just going Fuji so I can just rely on jpegs.

When people ask me about camera recommendations - I usually give them two answers based on my question of "how much time do you want to spend in front of the computer working in Lightroom and Photoshop?"

Typically I get the answer of "not much" I respond with "Oh yeah no yeah no yeah you wanna go Fujifilm and just shoot in jpegs; much easier"

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