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Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

Residency Evil posted:

I have a Specialized Power Pro Mirror on my trainer bike that I got last fall and I like. It looks like it's on sale again for $225.

It would be absolutely idiotic to pay an extra $100 for the S-works version to save 50 grams on my outdoor bike right?

You loving idiot.

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amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Sphyre posted:

This was all the encouragement I needed :sweatdrop:



As much as I like matte frames I'm really over matte black. This is great!!!

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

anyone need a ant+ sensor and usb cable? i have 2 and dont need em

I already ordered the Wahoo ones.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

Sphyre posted:

This was all the encouragement I needed :sweatdrop:



Awesome

amenenema posted:

As much as I like matte frames I'm really over matte black. This is great!!!

Yeah matte paint shows up any grease really badly too.

kiimo
Jul 24, 2003

Hi I have never posted in this thread. I do peloton a lot and pulled the trigger on this bike and have a question.





I got this online. I just rode it for the first time and the inside of the heel on my shoe gets jammed into the frame on the back wheel when I'm pedaling. Is this common? Do I need to train myself to avoid this? Should I change the pedals out for lock-ins and wear my bike shoes to avoid this? It was alarming as poo poo.




Also this is thing is hella light and fun to ride otherwise.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


kiimo posted:

Hi I have never posted in this thread. I do peloton a lot and pulled the trigger on this bike and have a question.




I got this online. I just rode it for the first time and the inside of the heel on my shoe gets jammed into the frame on the back wheel when I'm pedaling. Is this common? Do I need to train myself to avoid this? Should I change the pedals out for lock-ins and wear my bike shoes to avoid this?

Just stop doing it.


For real though it just sounds like you're duckfooted and will have to account for that. Use clipless pedals if you're comfortable or get some good platforms with pins that'll make it easier to not swing your heel in. Concentrate on keeping your foot in line.

I'm curious if your knee hurts after a Peloton ride. I'd think it would hurt if the only thing keeping your foot lined up straight was the pedal and cleat.

kiimo
Jul 24, 2003

Nah I'm actually pigeon-toed if anything.

It might be the shoes honestly they're running shoes with wide heel platforms.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

I had the same problem with my mtb, I changed shoes because the soles flare outward

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Yeah chunky soled trainers will do that too. I bet it's more likely on a 29" mtb tire too.

My left foot is a little pointed out so my heel occasionally bumps the chainstay if I'm being sloppy. In street shoes I've whacked it good a couple times.

Nice bike, are you getting into mtb? The guys over in that thread probably have some good shoe/pedal recommendations. I like spd pedals and shoes, but no knowledge of platform flat shoes.

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

Any of the flat pedals with replaceable metal pins and the cheapest pair of 5.10s you can find a deal on.

kiimo
Jul 24, 2003

I put these on it but not married to them

https://www.the-house.com/frphrpbk9...ingConfirmation

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
If all else fails you can run pedal extenders, I know one person who does this, hadn't seen them before.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
running shoes are often so flexible they'll just make your feet hurt more

Paul Proteus
Dec 6, 2007

Zombina says "si hoc legere scis nimium eruditionis habes!"
I'm working on getting back to cycling. I used to bike every day for work/commuting but moved and dropped it for a few years.

I've been back into it and regularly biking in a nearby park system. My current bike is a BMC race master that's about 10 years old. Rival 2x10 system. It works perfectly fine but I somewhat have the "electric" bug with etap and want to get off of rim brakes.

Is Cannondale still a legit company or have they gone to hell? A shop near me has the following in stock and on sale for only $2600. I haven't decided but am curious for any thoughts since it's no longer US made. Also considering a steel disc too since I'm not going to be racing.

https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/road/race/caad13/caad13-disc-rival

Paul Proteus fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Apr 1, 2023

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Paul Proteus posted:

I'm working on getting back to cycling. I used to bike every day for work/commuting but moved and dropped it for a few years.

I've been back into it and regularly biking in a nearby park system. My current bike is a BMC race master that's about 10 years old. Rival 2x10 system. It works perfectly fine but I somewhat have the "electric" bug with etap and want to get off of rim brakes.

Is Cannondale still a legit company or have they gone to hell? A shop near me has the following in stock and on sale for only $2600. I haven't decided but am curious for any thoughts since it's no longer US made. Also considering a steel disc too since I'm not going to be racing.

https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bikes/road/race/caad13/caad13-disc-rival

The CAAD13 is a great bike, and Cannondale remains a legit company. It has one quirk, a proprietary bottom bracket standard, but it's not hard to find parts at all.
$2600 is a good price for that bike/spec.
One thing to be mindful of: it has a nominal max tire size of 30mm, and folks report a practical max of 32mm. This is plenty wide, but with that width you won't be able to fit fenders for rainy weather.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

A CAAD is one of the cheapest ways to get a proper race bike and that's a great price for sure. As long as you want aggressive geometry and limited tire width (which is still likely better than your BMC) it's a super solid option.

Since you've been out of the game for a bit, worth mentioning that the bike industry realized most people don't want race geo and skinny tires. Hence the boom in allroad/gravel. The Cannondale version is the Topstone.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

The CAAD13 isn't a super racey geometry - it's much more on the endurance end of the spectrum.
The clearance is the only thing that would give me pause, personally.

Paul Proteus
Dec 6, 2007

Zombina says "si hoc legere scis nimium eruditionis habes!"

bicievino posted:

The CAAD13 is a great bike, and Cannondale remains a legit company. It has one quirk, a proprietary bottom bracket standard, but it's not hard to find parts at all.
$2600 is a good price for that bike/spec.
One thing to be mindful of: it has a nominal max tire size of 30mm, and folks report a practical max of 32mm. This is plenty wide, but with that width you won't be able to fit fenders for rainy weather.

Not looking for fenders but is 30 the new 23mm for tires? I was also considering the Caledonia from Cervelo but it's significantly more.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

bicievino posted:

The CAAD13 isn't a super racey geometry - it's much more on the endurance end of the spectrum.
The clearance is the only thing that would give me pause, personally.

That’s kind of interesting, since I got back into cycling last year after having been away since 2012 or so. I had a caad10, with iirc was essentially cannondales race geometry in aluminum form. Have they moved away from that?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

bicievino posted:

The CAAD13 isn't a super racey geometry - it's much more on the endurance end of the spectrum.
The clearance is the only thing that would give me pause, personally.

It's within a cm of stack for the same reach as a Canyon Ultimate, thought that was pretty racy...

Paul Proteus posted:

Not looking for fenders but is 30 the new 23mm for tires? I was also considering the Caledonia from Cervelo but it's significantly more.

25/28 is really the new 23. At least in terms of what the pros are riding. So 32 is the new 28 in terms of what many road bikes can maximally fit.

Residency Evil posted:

That’s kind of interesting, since I got back into cycling last year after having been away since 2012 or so. I had a caad10, with iirc was essentially cannondales race geometry in aluminum form. Have they moved away from that?

CAAD13 is identical geo to a Supersix Evo but a tiny more relaxed (~1cm stack height) than a Systemsix.

amenenema fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Apr 1, 2023

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
Got my speed and cadence sensors up and running. Getting my hands into the spokes to get that speed sensor installed was almost as much fun as waiting for the silicone band that holds it on to break while I was trying to stretch it around the hub.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

amenenema posted:

CAAD13 is identical geo to a Supersix Evo but a tiny more relaxed (~1cm stack height) than a Systemsix.

TIL the systemsix is a thing!

I don’t think it was around when the caad10 was first released.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

CAAD13 is 4cm more stack than an allez. It's an endurance geometry. You're right that Cannondale's main race bike is also an endurance geometry: that's what the market wants, and the pros just have to run silly long stems to compensate.

The CAAD13 is 3cm taller for the same reach as the CAAD12 was.

bicievino fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Apr 2, 2023

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

bicievino posted:

CAAD13 is 4cm more stack than an allez. It's an endurance geometry. You're right that Cannondale's main race bike is also an endurance geometry: that's what the market wants, and the pros just have to run silly long stems to compensate.

The CAAD13 is 3cm taller for the same reach as the CAAD12 was.

Wow I had no idea there was that big a shift from 12 to 13!

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

amenenema posted:

Wow I had no idea there was that big a shift from 12 to 13!

Yeah, same. So the CAAD/SuperSix geometry became more relaxed, while the SystemSix became their new "race" geometry?

On another topic, a question on tubes/tubeless. My bike's wheels can be setup to run tubeless, and I'm considering giving it a shot. I've always been a pretty basic butyl tube kinda guy, but I understand that there's also a world of better tubes out there that I could also be trying? Does anyone here have strong opinions?

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
I was all set to do about 20 miles on Katy today, but yesterday, my wife surprised me by saying she wanted to go on a ride with me. This was infusion week for her, so that told me she was feeling better, and I changed my plans to stick to the paved trails. Besides, not only is one of the trails a week or two away from a closure that will render six of the seven loops incomplete (making them oxbows, which sounds like a challenge), but I remembered that I haven't done a full ride with my new clipless pedals yet. I've just been bumming it on my single speed in street clothes. Also, I've had a new kit from NeoPro since January that it would be just barely warm enough to wear.

So, while it wasn't what I initially wanted to do, we both had a great time. We had a bad headwind on the first half of the loop, and she was conserving battery power. On the trip back, she put her e-bike on its highest assist level, and she found her groove about two miles later. The climb out of the "bowl" (from our starting point, there's a gradual descent for over half the ride, then a slightly sharper but still gradual ascent) thus ended up being done at between 17 - 18 MPH for several miles. Needless to say, she pulled away a fair little bit.

So, yeah, I got my workout. She apologized after we made it back to the SUV, but I told her it was OK because she ran my rear end off, and I would expect no less.

We stopped a few times for a few minutes here and there, and by the end of the ride, I was getting better at clipping in, especially the 2nd foot. No falls this time. I'll tighten the screws a little bit before my next ride.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Residency Evil posted:

I've always been a pretty basic butyl tube kinda guy, but I understand that there's also a world of better tubes out there that I could also be trying? Does anyone here have strong opinions?

I’ve been running Schwalbe aerothan tubes in my 23mm road bike, and I can’t really tell the difference from normal tubes. It’s still harsh and buzzy compared to anything with bigger tires. But I’ll take the weight savings. I have never run tubeless in something this narrow.

Crumps Brother
Sep 5, 2007

-G-
Get Equipped with
Ground Game

Residency Evil posted:

On another topic, a question on tubes/tubeless. My bike's wheels can be setup to run tubeless, and I'm considering giving it a shot. I've always been a pretty basic butyl tube kinda guy, but I understand that there's also a world of better tubes out there that I could also be trying? Does anyone here have strong opinions?
I use latex tubes in my stick bikes. Challenge specifically, but I used to use Vitoria as well and didn't like them as much. You have to refill the tires before *every* ride which tends to turn people off. Otherwise they're more puncture resistant, lighter, and more supple than butyl tubes. I have some spare tubes that are made of that fancy plastic stuff that's come out recently. I've never actually used them though.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

Residency Evil posted:

Yeah, same. So the CAAD/SuperSix geometry became more relaxed, while the SystemSix became their new "race" geometry?

On another topic, a question on tubes/tubeless. My bike's wheels can be setup to run tubeless, and I'm considering giving it a shot. I've always been a pretty basic butyl tube kinda guy, but I understand that there's also a world of better tubes out there that I could also be trying? Does anyone here have strong opinions?

Systemsix is the more aero bike, supersix the light bike. geo between them and the caad are all about the same. The synapse and topstone share cannondale's shorter, more upright "endurance" fit.

The supersix has gotten a little taller from the previous gens though, current 58 has the same stack as my 60 from 2015. It's not the most aggressive fit but still a "race" bike and probably more practical for most people.

And tubeless is great, even road tubeless, i've been riding on 25mm gp5ktls for the last year and it's real smooth and i've only had one noticable puncture, which sealed so i just had to add air. I do have a road wheelset that's not tubeless and put latex tubes in there, and have some tpus as lighter weight spares.

foutre
Sep 4, 2011

:toot: RIP ZEEZ :toot:

Residency Evil posted:

Yeah, same. So the CAAD/SuperSix geometry became more relaxed, while the SystemSix became their new "race" geometry?

On another topic, a question on tubes/tubeless. My bike's wheels can be setup to run tubeless, and I'm considering giving it a shot. I've always been a pretty basic butyl tube kinda guy, but I understand that there's also a world of better tubes out there that I could also be trying? Does anyone here have strong opinions?

I swapped over to tubeless recently, and I don't have any complaints! I've been running them at lower PSI than I was comfortable running tube tires at, which has been v solid.

The inciting incident for me was a gravel ride up a mountain, where I punctured two tubes on the way up and then was stuck trying to figure out which part of the replacement tube needed a patch in 35 degree rain. Maybe I'll have a similarly rough experience with tubeless at some point, but imo its worth (god willing) not having to deal with that again.

tildes
Nov 16, 2018
I’d like to get my tires a bit better at handling medium gravel, and am wondering what tire change makes sense. I have a 2021 Trek Domane AL 2 Disc, which has tires that support tubeless and go up to 35c (though people say that there is also clearance for 38c).

Can anyone recommend a tire setup for me? Right now I’m riding normal tubed 32c tires at the recommended 85 psi which aren’t particularly grippy.

Basically trying to see if there’s a setup which would make gravel more comfortable + doable traction wise without giving up too much road performance, and I’m not sure how wide to go to make that happen, and how much tubeless would help.

I am also not sure- should I be worried about running tubeless tires assuming that I won’t really know how to fix things if they break? My impression is that they just don’t flat, so it doesn’t matter, but I am a bit worried about going from tires I can change myself to ones I think I’d struggle to change.

(E: the stuff above makes it sound like it has been pretty painless for people to swap over?)

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Must not be the stock tires because the max for 32mm R1 hardcase lite is 70psi

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

brand engager posted:

Must not be the stock tires because the max for 32mm R1 hardcase lite is 70psi

Oh yeah, they aren’t stock- they are Armadillo All Condition tires. I don’t know if those are good, they were just what the bike shop had in stock. Sadly put a bunch of metal through the stock ones riding on a highway shoulder :(

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

tildes posted:

I’d like to get my tires a bit better at handling medium gravel, and am wondering what tire change makes sense. I have a 2021 Trek Domane AL 2 Disc, which has tires that support tubeless and go up to 35c (though people say that there is also clearance for 38c).

Can anyone recommend a tire setup for me? Right now I’m riding normal tubed 32c tires at the recommended 85 psi which aren’t particularly grippy.

Basically trying to see if there’s a setup which would make gravel more comfortable + doable traction wise without giving up too much road performance, and I’m not sure how wide to go to make that happen, and how much tubeless would help.

I am also not sure- should I be worried about running tubeless tires assuming that I won’t really know how to fix things if they break? My impression is that they just don’t flat, so it doesn’t matter, but I am a bit worried about going from tires I can change myself to ones I think I’d struggle to change.

(E: the stuff above makes it sound like it has been pretty painless for people to swap over?)

Can you clarify what you mean by medium gravel?
For me, gravel has plenty of traction - I'm concerned about flats, dented rims, and just general comfort long before I'm concerned about losing grip on actual gravel.
Dirt roads and muddy trails - are you concerned about straight line grip or just cornering? If the former, go wide, lower pressure, and something like a Conti Terra Speed. If you're only worried about corner grip, try a Vittoria Terreno Dry.

Essentially: any knobs will slow down your pavement riding. Add as little as needed so that you maximize enjoyment over your entire ride, which will depend hugely on your specific ride, your skills, and how you measure enjoyment.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Are armadillios really soft tires? the highest I've used with 32mm was 50 - 55psi and the the wheel tried to bounce sideways when rolled into a seed gumball.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
From the name I'm guessing armadillos are not very fast or supple.

A tire that's fairly smooth down the center but has some sideknob, set up tubeless, in like a listed ~35mm would probably be a good bet. Pirelli gravel H, wtb byway, challenge gravel grinder, etc. The terreno dry comes in 33 and 38 but runs big. The 38s probably won't fit in the domane. But even a bigger slick tire at lower pressure will go a long way.

I've also been using foam inserts in my gravel wheels which lets me run lower pressures and worry less about pinch flats or breaking a rim.

jamal fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Apr 3, 2023

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

bicievino posted:

Can you clarify what you mean by medium gravel?
For me, gravel has plenty of traction - I'm concerned about flats, dented rims, and just general comfort long before I'm concerned about losing grip on actual gravel.
Dirt roads and muddy trails - are you concerned about straight line grip or just cornering? If the former, go wide, lower pressure, and something like a Conti Terra Speed. If you're only worried about corner grip, try a Vittoria Terreno Dry.

Essentially: any knobs will slow down your pavement riding. Add as little as needed so that you maximize enjoyment over your entire ride, which will depend hugely on your specific ride, your skills, and how you measure enjoyment.

Ty for suggestions! So just to see if I get it: the Vittoria would be a bit less traction, but in exchange fewer knobs to slow down pavement?

I mostly noticed traction issues going uphill/cornering faster on muddy trails. Ideally I wouldn’t be riding in the mud that much, but weather makes it happen more often than I’d like. You’re right though that on gravel it was really more that it was just bouncy/not super comfortable.

I’m not sure what the right way to describe the trails I’m hoping to do is- Basically I’d like to do routes around Redwood Regional, the Marin headlands, and trails in Pacifica. Sorry, I realize that’s probably not helpful for people not also in the Bay Area- they’re not like flat rail trails which just happen to be gravel, a bit more gnarly than that, but they aren’t crazy either.

jamal posted:

A tire that's fairly smooth down the center but has some sideknob, set up tubeless, in like a listed ~35mm would probably be a good bet. Pirelli gravel H, wtb byway, challenge gravel grinder, etc. The terreno dry comes in 33 and 38 but runs big. The 38s probably won't fit in the domane.

I've also been using foam inserts in my gravel wheels which lets me run lower pressures and worry less about pinch flats or breaking a rim.

Thank you! Sounds like tubeless probably the way to go in any case.

brand engager posted:

Are armadillios really soft tires? the highest I've used with 32mm was 50 - 55psi and the the wheel tried to bounce sideways when rolled into a seed gumball.

🤷🏻‍♂️ I am probably not educated enough to say lol

tildes fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Apr 3, 2023

Shadowhand00
Jan 23, 2006

Golden Bear is ever watching; day by day he prowls, and when he hears the tread of lowly Stanfurd red,from his Lair he fiercely growls.
Toilet Rascal
Also you don’t want to run your tires at whatever pressure is listed on your tires. That’s likely max pressure. Use something silca’a tire pressure calculator as a starting point to get a tire pressure. Running your tires that high will likely give you more problems on gravel than you know.
In terms of Bay Area gravel anything 35mm will likely be fine. I’ve done a lot of the easier fire roads in the headlands on 32s underbiking on a road bike but 35mm was perfect.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Shadowhand00 posted:

Also you don’t want to run your tires at whatever pressure is listed on your tires. That’s likely max pressure. Use something silca’a tire pressure calculator as a starting point to get a tire pressure. Running your tires that high will likely give you more problems on gravel than you know.
In terms of Bay Area gravel anything 35mm will likely be fine. I’ve done a lot of the easier fire roads in the headlands on 32s underbiking on a road bike but 35mm was perfect.

100%. 85psi in 32c tyres is far too high unless you weigh 150kg or something. Dropping to 55psi will likely solve the comfort problem.

I just managed to convince my 70kg friend to drop his road tyre pressures from 80psi to the Silca recommended 55 the day before we both rode the tour of Flanders sportive, I don’t think he knows how much pain I saved him.

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bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

tildes posted:

Ty for suggestions! So just to see if I get it: the Vittoria would be a bit less traction, but in exchange fewer knobs to slow down pavement?

I mostly noticed traction issues going uphill/cornering faster on muddy trails. Ideally I wouldn’t be riding in the mud that much, but weather makes it happen more often than I’d like. You’re right though that on gravel it was really more that it was just bouncy/not super comfortable.

I’m not sure what the right way to describe the trails I’m hoping to do is- Basically I’d like to do routes around Redwood Regional, the Marin headlands, and trails in Pacifica. Sorry, I realize that’s probably not helpful for people not also in the Bay Area- they’re not like flat rail trails which just happen to be gravel, a bit more gnarly than that, but they aren’t crazy either.

Thank you! Sounds like tubeless probably the way to go in any case.

🤷🏻‍♂️ I am probably not educated enough to say lol

I don't know those trails but based on your description I'd say try out the Terra Speed in 35mm or 40mm. They're relatively cheap as good tires go (still not supercheap), and they might be the right balance for you.
The unfortunate reality is that there is no one best tire for all conditions, so it's really going to come down to you finding what you like best. Try things, see what you like/dislike, and take notes so that you don't have to rely on memory.

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