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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I don't got any evaporust but I have some acids. The tap wrench came part of a package of taps, tap wrenches, dies, die holders etc etc I bought on a german craigslist site. I just started using it as is.

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Broke my first drill bit last night on my harbor freight drill press. Drilled about 16 x 7/16ths for some rivnuts in alternating 1/8" plate and 16ga mild steel

To horribly misquote Douglas Adams, "I really enjoy the sound as they go whizzing over my head" was only a 1/8th bit but definitely happy I was wearing eye protection

Later another 1/8th bit broke off in the hole, didn't realize it occasionally the metal would PING like a string plucked on a guitar and the shavings would bounce. I thought I was doing great as the metal was pinging and the bit kept going lower. Turns out little 0.5mm pieces of drill bit were shooting off into orbit at the speed of sound

:catstare:

Then I realized I'd just drilled like a dozen pilot holes with that drill bit with no oil. Switched to a different drill bit and started using oil and problems went away. These bits all came out of a highly abused $12 Ryobi set from home depot like a decade ago so not torn up about it

P100 working out great thanks for that call out

Rivnuts are pretty neat especially when working with long lengths of square tubing

Also made some really horrific high porosity welds (watching blisters of flux impurities bubble to the top and pop) just trying to use the flux core wire as a glue gun to close up some fabrication. So bad I didn't even bother taking photos. It's in a non structural part that's probably going to get ground way back anyways with body filler and paint.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I was just watching a video of a guy making V blocks out of some low carbon steel, then he case hardened them with charcoal and sodium carbonate in a forge. How deep does the carbon penetrate with this method? Is it just a couple thousandths with relatively soft steel below that?

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

AFAIK at the professional heat treat places you can get about .060" deep case hardening low carbon.

shame on an IGA
Apr 8, 2005

The analogs between surface caburization and smoking meats are endlessly fascinating

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
How fascinating a concept this is. A dog clutch with a single tooth between lathe spindle and your thread cutting mechanism, what the single tooth means is you can disconnect and reconnect the spindle when threading and when you restart, it will always resume threading from the correct place again. Doesn't matter what kind of thread, imperial or metric. Don't need a threading indicator either, just engage whenever.

The above is assuming you keep the halfnuts engaged while repositioning the cutting tool and having a handwheel on the screw to move it back. You can disconnect the half nuts but that gets more complicated.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/sites/7/documents/screwcutting%20clutch1.pdf

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
I had a hunch who wrote that, and sure enough, I was right. I remember him mentioning this mechanism somewhere else without much explanation, so it's neat to finally see it properly. It's quite interesting indeed.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Here are some practical examples of it as well and I believe Hardinge lathes use their own version of this as well. Seems like a neat alternative to an electronic lead screw.

https://gadgetbuilder.com/Dog_Clutch.html
https://www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/minilathe/dogclutch

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive

tylertfb posted:

Are these the Roland Mills? Those things are basically 100% wear parts and should be tossed once they start cutting weird if you're doing heavy production. I had the exact same job from 2012-2016. Our shop had 50 Arum 5-axis mills (from korea) for machining zirconia. We also did custom titanium abutments (on really nice Fanuc Robodrills). I was in charge of all the CAM automation and thankfully didn't have to maintain the machines much. Dental machining is a really neat area.

yes they're mostly rolands, and yes, I + service techs have said this, but alas, penny wise pound foolish etc etc. they're gonna keep these things until they stop making replacement parts for them, which was the only thing that killed our dwx-50. did you know the ballscrews on the DWX-51/52/53s are rolled and not ground, and have no specced tolerances? incredible that they run as well as they do

we're getting an ivoclar PM7 + imes 650i soon, looking forward to using something a little more serious

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive

Skunkduster posted:

I was just watching a video of a guy making V blocks out of some low carbon steel, then he case hardened them with charcoal and sodium carbonate in a forge. How deep does the carbon penetrate with this method? Is it just a couple thousandths with relatively soft steel below that?

depends on how long you cook it for and the composition of the case-hardening mix you use, afaik you can fully convert sheet iron/mild steel to carbon steel if it's thin enough because it'll penetrate clear through the core. if you're not case hardening it for 16 hours in a boiler furnace or sth though it won't be that deep. I forget the rate of hardening, there's a commonly-cited figure.
faster case-hardening techniques, including insta-casing techniques like Cherry Red compound, don't penetrate very deep at all, but if people need super deep case hardening nowadays they tend to just start with a better alloy

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I finally did it, after years of putting it off. I filled up the coolant tank on my lathe and fit new hoses and a nozzle. I can now say

1. Holy crap it makes a MESS.

2. Never had such an easy time parting, 32mm stainless, no center hole. Just a Chinese parting tool and coolant and no problems at any time.

Ghostnuke
Sep 21, 2005

Throw this in a pot, add some broth, a potato? Baby you got a stew going!


anyone have feelings about different brands of cobalt drill bits?

I broke off a bolt in some cast iron and then, of course, snapped off a screw extractor inside that. I've since wrecked a couple of die grinder bits trying to get through, no luck so far.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Adding a coolant system has been on my list of potential upgrades for a while. How I'm going to add a catchment system to direct the coolant back to the tank on my small, benchtop lathe is one issue which I need to solve, but that won't be too difficult to cobble together. Biggest issue is finding a coolant pump/tank system that isn't disproportionately huge.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Ghostnuke posted:

anyone have feelings about different brands of cobalt drill bits?

I broke off a bolt in some cast iron and then, of course, snapped off a screw extractor inside that. I've since wrecked a couple of die grinder bits trying to get through, no luck so far.

I like Hertel and National Twist. Guhring is really great too, but it's :eyepop: price.


Just Winging It posted:

Adding a coolant system has been on my list of potential upgrades for a while. How I'm going to add a catchment system to direct the coolant back to the tank on my small, benchtop lathe is one issue which I need to solve, but that won't be too difficult to cobble together. Biggest issue is finding a coolant pump/tank system that isn't disproportionately huge.

Little Giant makes some good, small, pumps for this.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass
Yeah, that's what I was looking for. Shame they're US/Canada only, but it gave me a decent baseline what to look for. Turns out RDG Tools in the UK has a very similar unit by Vertex so now I feel silly.

Karia
Mar 27, 2013

Self-portrait, Snake on a Plane
Oil painting, c. 1482-1484
Leonardo DaVinci (1452-1591)

Just Winging It posted:

Adding a coolant system has been on my list of potential upgrades for a while. How I'm going to add a catchment system to direct the coolant back to the tank on my small, benchtop lathe is one issue which I need to solve, but that won't be too difficult to cobble together. Biggest issue is finding a coolant pump/tank system that isn't disproportionately huge.

On the flip side, the more coolant the better, so why not go for as much overkill as possible? :getin:


You don't need a catchment if the entire rest of your shop is your coolant tank! Protective gear might be a good idea. And a rebreather.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Our 13x40 lathe has a coolant pump but this 40 year old machine is in such good shape I refuse to use it. It can do horrible things to the machines if you're not meticulous in keeping it clean.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Does air assist on a lathe get you as much mileage as it does on mills? Could be a decent compromise.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Karia posted:

On the flip side, the more coolant the better, so why not go for as much overkill as possible? :getin:


You don't need a catchment if the entire rest of your shop is your coolant tank! Protective gear might be a good idea. And a rebreather.

:getin:

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

NewFatMike posted:

Does air assist on a lathe get you as much mileage as it does on mills? Could be a decent compromise.

Mills are inherently interrupted cuts and thus susceptible to thermal cracking. Air for steels, coolant for the rest.

Lathes looove coolant. Because theres no thermal shock you can push even closer to the limit when pouring it on or better yet through tool.

So somes better than nothing, but coolant life.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

A Proper Uppercut posted:

Our 13x40 lathe has a coolant pump but this 40 year old machine is in such good shape I refuse to use it. It can do horrible things to the machines if you're not meticulous in keeping it clean.

Yes it was a PITA to clean up afterwards, the worst is the coolant getting onto the ways and between the saddle and bed ways. This lathe is probably 70 years old.

I built some covers a year ago or more, works well at keeping dust and stuff out of the ways for the cross slide but I am gonna redesign the bed way cover, it also robs limited lathe capacity like this.



I do think if I was building my own system I wouldn't use flood coolant at all. I would build a fogbuster style system.

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
are there any worthwhile offerings in the "extremely small / apartment lathe" category beyond taigs. i really miss turning stuff by hand but i won't have room for a "real" lathe any time in the foreseeable future, not even a little import mini lathe

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Ambrose Burnside posted:

are there any worthwhile offerings in the "extremely small / apartment lathe" category beyond taigs. i really miss turning stuff by hand but i won't have room for a "real" lathe any time in the foreseeable future, not even a little import mini lathe

Wachmaker Lathe. Bergeon for example, though that is the gently caress off expensive version. But there are others that are similar and less... Suisse.

JointHorse
Feb 7, 2005

Lusus naturæ et exaltabitur cor eius.


Yams Fan

Ambrose Burnside posted:

are there any worthwhile offerings in the "extremely small / apartment lathe" category beyond taigs. i really miss turning stuff by hand but i won't have room for a "real" lathe any time in the foreseeable future, not even a little import mini lathe

Proxxon makes several desktop-sized lathes/mills.
https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/precision-lathe-and-milling-systems.php

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Clickspring on YouTube does a lot of small work on his little Sherline.

https://www.sherline.com/product-category/lathes/manually-controlled-lathes/

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Ghostnuke posted:

anyone have feelings about different brands of cobalt drill bits?

I broke off a bolt in some cast iron and then, of course, snapped off a screw extractor inside that. I've since wrecked a couple of die grinder bits trying to get through, no luck so far.

If machining my feeling is just buy carbide.

For your part the way I deal with broken taps in a pricey part is to use a CNC mill and one or more carbide end mills to peck out the bit that’s wedged in.

Other option, braze and move the hole.

Once you get the extractor out a carbide drill should be able to drill the screw but you have to be absolutely sure you got 100% of the extractor.

Edit: another option is to EDM is out, never done this though.

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

CarForumPoster posted:



Edit: another option is to EDM is out, never done this though.

When I worked at a big aerospace company, we kept an old clapped out hole popper EDM machine around just to burn out broken taps and drills. It was glorious.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

tylertfb posted:

When I worked at a big aerospace company, we kept an old clapped out hole popper EDM machine around just to burn out broken taps and drills. It was glorious.

I am very jealous. So much wasted time pecking away at a 4-40 with a 1/8" endmill, cleaning up the hole, and then helicoil.

I wish I had gotten on the thread milling bandwagon way earlier. Never tap poo poo, just turn or thread mill all your threads unless totally impossible.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

I love thread milling, we are just now getting good at it at work, but the new hotness for us is form tapping. We got a new customer that loves 17-4 stainless at about 40 hrc. Form taps and molly-d for lube and were getting hundreds of holes per tap.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

honda whisperer posted:

form tapping 17-4 stainless at about 40 hrc

no quote

shame on an IGA
Apr 8, 2005

hexagonal polygon turning,live tool form ID cutting, parting into a live backwork spindle, external roll threading and then slit-sawing a +20 -0 um slot depth remains the peak of my swiss lathe career

we did literally every possible operation on a piece of metal, to that part, on a 16s. cycle time

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009


I mean yeah but our rule is why no quote when you can $lol and after doing a handful of them they called us and asked how much we could take. We've gotten really good at 17-4. It eats endmills but it's stable af.

Karia
Mar 27, 2013

Self-portrait, Snake on a Plane
Oil painting, c. 1482-1484
Leonardo DaVinci (1452-1591)

My adoration of form taps has become something of a running joke where I'm at. So long as you stay inside their application limits and have good lubrication, they just work, and keep on working. And if cycle time's important it's hard to beat. I've only really pushed the limits on aluminum diecast, which is about as easy as you can get, but in that stuff you can run an M10 tap at 6000 rpm, with the right setup.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Karia posted:

My adoration of form taps has become something of a running joke where I'm at. So long as you stay inside their application limits and have good lubrication, they just work, and keep on working. And if cycle time's important it's hard to beat. I've only really pushed the limits on aluminum diecast, which is about as easy as you can get, but in that stuff you can run an M10 tap at 6000 rpm, with the right setup.

We use it on 1100 copper and I'm always surprised how well it works. But yah, try to squeak out a bit more and "ping!".

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

I've been thinking about moving over to form tapping as 420SS is hell on taps. Do you guys prefer the single flute things or the full length ones?

Karia
Mar 27, 2013

Self-portrait, Snake on a Plane
Oil painting, c. 1482-1484
Leonardo DaVinci (1452-1591)

I'm not sure what you mean by "single flute", but most form taps have fairly short threaded sections and then a recessed neck smaller than the minor diameter. That reduces contact between the tap and part, reducing friction and helping with lubrication. Those are the style I generally use.

FYI: my go-to reference for understanding threading is this handbook from Walter Prototyp. Obviously they're shilling their own product, so take it with a grain of salt (though they do make good tools, but it's also getting a bit old), but it does a fantastic job of explaining what sort of tool features/geometries they use to optimize the tools for specific applications/problems, what sort of common problems you might see, and how you could modify the process and tool to overcome them. Even if you're not using their tools it's a good read, and goes into both cut/form tapping and threadmilling.
https://cdn.walter-tools.com/files/sitecollectiondocuments/downloads/global/manuals/en-gb/handbook-prototyp-threading-2012-en.pdf

tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

Karia posted:

I'm not sure what you mean by "single flute",

I think he was mixing up (single point vs multiple thread ) thread mills with forming/roll taps.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Adventures in square tube bending


First attempt did not go great, got some wonky angles where it ought to be straight.


Second attempt with wider, more gradual radius bend worked out much better

Doing the thing where you make the pattern, draw the segments at an angle that also intersects a common point, then cut up the pattern, lay it flat and scribe the triangles between the patterns on the flat square tubing. I think it's supposed to work better on longer segments but I'm making it work. Generally I get within 5-10% of the final shape on the first try, then just trim some cuts to allow a tighter angle




Seems to be better/faster than the "spray and pray" school of turning the tube into an accordion with 4x too many cuts but I've only tried the first method so far

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Apr 16, 2023

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

A Proper Uppercut posted:

I've been thinking about moving over to form tapping as 420SS is hell on taps. Do you guys prefer the single flute things or the full length ones?

If you mean the thread mills then the ones fluted all the way up. Single flute take forever.

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A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

honda whisperer posted:

If you mean the thread mills then the ones fluted all the way up. Single flute take forever.

Yea, these vs. these.

And yes I meant thread milling, not form tapping, my bad!

A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Apr 16, 2023

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