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eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

hp5 is very forgiving, so i'd follow megabound's advice

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LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




HP5 is good stuff to start with. It can handle a LOT of abuse. Absolutely do one roll first before shooting the rest, though.

Every black and white film has to be developed for a different time. So when you send it to a development place where all black and white stuff goes through the same machine, you might end up with unexpected results. I would recommend to 'meter for the shadows' - point your camera at a darker part of the scene while taking the light meter reading - because in general, it's easier to correct for overexposure than to correct for underdevelopment when scanning or printing. In general, negative film is super resilient to overexposure but less so to underexposure.

If you bring it to a specialized photo lab that does development in house, ask them if they tailor the development time to the film you send to them. If they do, you don't have to correct for anything.

If after a few rolls you decide to develop yourself, you'll have to read up on how sensitive your film is when using a specific developer. For instance, Rodinal will reduce the true speed of HP5 to 320 or 250 iso. You can overdevelop (push) a bit to compensate, but you'll always have some loss of shadow detail if you expose it for 400 iso. But that small difference is not really that big of a deal.
I can recommend home developing because it's like 1 euro per roll of film in dev cost and you can scan/print it the same day. You can also develop half a roll if you're experimenting with exposure and development.

Side note: i do not recommend Rodinal for hp5. I recommend it for many films, but not hp5.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Mar 19, 2023

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

LimaBiker posted:

Side note: i do not recommend Rodinal for hp5. I recommend it for many films, but not hp5.

i've seen this sentiment a lot and i'm more of an hc110 guy, but i've not had problems with hp5 and rodinal

Jesus

Career Apparel

Raccoon

FreudianSlippers
Apr 12, 2010

Shooting and Fucking
are the same thing!


This one would make a good album cover.þ if cropped to a square.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

Megabound posted:

Get out there and go wild, trust the camera meter.

The only issue is if it’s an OG Om-1 the meter takes a PX625 so unless you have one of those zinc-air replacements your metering might be wack.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




True. But the difference might not be huge.

Grab a digital camera and set it up according to the light meter of the analog camera (sensitivity, shutter, aperture). See if the resulting picture is to your liking. Yes? Use a cheap normal battery. No? Get one of the more expensive 1,35v ones, or modify with a germanium/schottky diode to eat away 0,2v.

Disagree with the sunny 16 thing if you're shooting with a 'proper' camera with coupled light meter simply because those are so easy to use that the alternative (estimating) is more work.

Sunny 16 is imho a good alternative to separate light meters. Then again, it's easy enough to carry a simple meter, do one reading, add a stop when a cloud moves in front of the sun, subtract one when the sun comes back, and get the meter out again if you go to a completely different light situation.

Try everything. I found great joy in walking around with box cameras that don't have any exposure settings whatsoever, except the film you're taking with you.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Mar 19, 2023

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Learn sunny-16, let the sun be your guide, throw light meters in the trash

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

I got a new camera today, a lovely little Minolta rangefinder with a fixed 45mm lens and a party trick of being able to shoot at 1/2000th with a leaf shutter

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
Dang that really owns bones

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)
I use LR44s in my SRT202, usually shooting HP5+ or FP4+, and the exposure usually turns out just fine.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009

Recoome posted:

The only issue is if it’s an OG Om-1 the meter takes a PX625 so unless you have one of those zinc-air replacements your metering might be wack.

I use the Mr 9 adapter on my om-1 and the meter works perfectly. It's a little pricey but I think I'll eventually get ahead using just sr or lr44 batteries.

frogbs
May 5, 2004
Well well well

LimaBiker posted:

Every black and white film has to be developed for a different time. So when you send it to a development place where all black and white stuff goes through the same machine, you might end up with unexpected results.

Oh...no. I hope most labs don't use the same dev time for different films? In my experience that's why B&W development usually costs more. Has anyone worked for a lab, do they really process stuff in bulk?

Megabound posted:

I got a new camera today, a lovely little Minolta rangefinder with a fixed 45mm lens and a party trick of being able to shoot at 1/2000th with a leaf shutter



This is a beautiful camera! What the model number? It reminds me a bit of the Fujica Super Six with the rounded top edge.

tompepper
Feb 14, 2005

Recoome posted:

The only issue is if it’s an OG Om-1 the meter takes a PX625 so unless you have one of those zinc-air replacements your metering might be wack.

Yeah it is an OG OM-1,and I didn't really want to mess with the internal light meter so I did get a cheap external light meter, we'll see how it goes.

Only thing is, it's not really a photography light meter. I think I'm going to use a calculator (https://toolstud.io/photo/light.php) to figure out the general shutter speed/aperture I'll be going with based on the reading I get from this meter.

Clunky process, but I don't think I'm going to rely on it too much.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

Havana Affair posted:

I use the Mr 9 adapter on my om-1 and the meter works perfectly. It's a little pricey but I think I'll eventually get ahead using just sr or lr44 batteries.

Some time this year I'll want to do this for the Ftn head I have for my Nikon F or I'll get it converted to use the modern batteries. It's really low priority for me presently and the metering seems good.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

frogbs posted:

Oh...no. I hope most labs don't use the same dev time for different films? In my experience that's why B&W development usually costs more. Has anyone worked for a lab, do they really process stuff in bulk?

This is a beautiful camera! What the model number? It reminds me a bit of the Fujica Super Six with the rounded top edge.

It's a Minolta V2, and yeah that top deck is quite similar

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




frogbs posted:

Oh...no. I hope most labs don't use the same dev time for different films? In my experience that's why B&W development usually costs more. Has anyone worked for a lab, do they really process stuff in bulk?


As far as i'm aware, the Fujifilm and CeWe labs - the really large scale ones that do the development work for individual photo shops, department stores and drug stores - do bulk everything, and many photo shops send their stuff to those development plants. It is reflected in the price. E6 slide and black and white are both 3,95 euro AFAIK when using the Hema department store development service. I have only used the black and white dev service very rarely. I think i sent fomapan 400 once to Fujifilm. It came out too thin, but that might have something to do with Fomapan being not really 400 anyway.

Unless Hema uses the photo dev service as a loss leader with serious loss, i don't think Fujifilm tailors it to each film - at least not on the consumer grade photo service. No idea if they run different quality lines for different retailers. If you feel like trying to find it out, you can search for "fujifilm steenbergen".

Individual shops that offer push/pull processing very likely tailor development to your film because their workflow already offers the possibility to vary development time.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Mar 19, 2023

QuasiQuack
Jun 13, 2010

Ducks hockey baybee
I've also dipped my toes into film photography recently and found it be a ton of fun, shooting with an Olympus 35RC. Loading and advancing the film, adjusting dials, firing the shutter, it's all so incredibly satisfying.
It was a bummer to get my second batch of photos back from the lab and see this result though :(



I have very little experience with photography, even digital, so I'm not sure if this is my fuckup or the lab's.
It doesn't appear in every photo, so I would guess it's something I did.

Luckily I got some I liked from that roll so it wasn't all a waste.


wedgie deliverer
Oct 2, 2010

I dropped ~20 rolls I've shot over the last few years at the lab last week and I'm excited to get my first negatives back in years. Hoping to share the keepers here.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




QuasiQuack posted:

I've also dipped my toes into film photography recently and found it be a ton of fun, shooting with an Olympus 35RC. Loading and advancing the film, adjusting dials, firing the shutter, it's all so incredibly satisfying.
It was a bummer to get my second batch of photos back from the lab and see this result though :(




Light leak of some sort. Looks like something in your camera, not a processing issue. Are the light seals around the film door still good?

QuasiQuack
Jun 13, 2010

Ducks hockey baybee

LimaBiker posted:

Light leak of some sort. Looks like something in your camera, not a processing issue. Are the light seals around the film door still good?

I don't know how to judge whether it's good or not, but I'll take a look once I'm through the roll that's in it now.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

QuasiQuack posted:

I don't know how to judge whether it's good or not, but I'll take a look once I'm through the roll that's in it now.

Looks like light coming in through the film door hinge on the right side of the camera. My friend has a Konica C35 which gets a a light leak if she leaves in in the sun hinge first.

You could try using black electrical tape and see how that goes

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Often the light seals are made from foam. The foam always deteriorates and starts to crumble. If you rub it and it comes off, it's bad. You can buy new light seal sets on ebay etc or make it from thin felt yourself.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I replaced the seals in my 6x7 with a kit from eBay and it completely resolved my light leak issues, not difficult to install but some of the old foam was difficult to remove.

QuasiQuack
Jun 13, 2010

Ducks hockey baybee
I'll give it a go. Thanks for the advice.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Don't bother buying a light seal kit if the camera has gutters. Black wool is the way to go, just jam it in there. Then go to the felt aisle of the craft store you're in and buy a sheet of black adhesive bracked felt and you'll have everything you need to redo the seals on any camera you own for under $5, and probably enough to last a lifetime.

trashy owl
Aug 23, 2017

Recoome posted:

You could try using black electrical tape and see how that goes

That will leave a sticky residue, the photographer's friend is a roll of black gaffer's tape.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

trashy owl posted:

That will leave a sticky residue, the photographer's friend is a roll of black gaffer's tape.

It's a goon camera, the sticky residue is a feature.

CONTENT:
A while ago I was testing a bunch of different black and white film stocks in 35mm with the aim to roll canisters at home. The Fomapan film stocks are where I landed, but I managed to acquire a roll of Orwo UN54 from a local goon and honestly this is such a great look I'd use it if I had it on hand. Please enjoy this weird dog.


Leica IIIg, Summitar 50mm f2, Orwo UN54

Odoyle
Sep 9, 2003
Odoyle Rules!

Megabound posted:

Don't bother buying a light seal kit if the camera has gutters. Black wool is the way to go, just jam it in there. Then go to the felt aisle of the craft store you're in and buy a sheet of black adhesive bracked felt and you'll have everything you need to redo the seals on any camera you own for under $5, and probably enough to last a lifetime.

You’re absolutely correct, but you neglect certain details like felt thickness. I had no idea what I was doing when I replaced seals on my Canonet QL-III with frickin flocked tape and it worked. Sometimes you get lucky, I guess.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Odoyle posted:

You’re absolutely correct, but you neglect certain details like felt thickness. I had no idea what I was doing when I replaced seals on my Canonet QL-III with frickin flocked tape and it worked. Sometimes you get lucky, I guess.

I've only bought one thickness of felt and I've never had an issue with any of the cameras I've repaired. It's not a huge concern

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)

Recoome posted:


Leica IIIg, Summitar 50mm f2, Orwo UN54

Not usually a big fan of super contrast-y stuff but this really seems to work. Seems “right”.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

President Beep posted:

Not usually a big fan of super contrast-y stuff but this really seems to work. Seems “right”.

I’m the opposite, I like contrast but I agree - the light was quite harsh in this one though. I also kind of metered by feel so probably not as well exposed as it could’ve been.

jiffypop45
Dec 30, 2011

Anyone happen to have a rec for a place somewhere on the east coast (were in philly so NYC is probably going to be the most likely place) that does in house repairs? My partner's om2 has a light leak and she tried to replace the seals but it's still there.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

jiffypop45 posted:

Anyone happen to have a rec for a place somewhere on the east coast (were in philly so NYC is probably going to be the most likely place) that does in house repairs? My partner's om2 has a light leak and she tried to replace the seals but it's still there.

Post the leak

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

A reminder that if you shoot film you should visit a darkroom









35mm to 12x16, UN54 pushed 2 stops in HC110

Megabound fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Apr 4, 2023

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

What's the group think about mailing film in order to avoid it getting x-rayed at the airport?

I'll be in Alaska in a few weeks, and I have a source to buy the film there. But I would still have to bring the exposed film back to my home (CA) so I can develop it myself. I don't mind if it takes forever to reach me, I just do not want it to get x-rayed. Is there a certain carrier or shipping method I should use/avoid?

aricoarena
Aug 7, 2006
citizenh8 bought me this account because he is a total qt.

theHUNGERian posted:

What's the group think about mailing film in order to avoid it getting x-rayed at the airport?

I'll be in Alaska in a few weeks, and I have a source to buy the film there. But I would still have to bring the exposed film back to my home (CA) so I can develop it myself. I don't mind if it takes forever to reach me, I just do not want it to get x-rayed. Is there a certain carrier or shipping method I should use/avoid?

On U.S. domestic flights I’ve never had a problem asking for my film to be hand checked at security. I have it in one or 2 ziplock sandwich bags. I’ve had it take a while because there were not enough people and some has to run the swab test on it.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

theHUNGERian posted:

What's the group think about mailing film in order to avoid it getting x-rayed at the airport?

I'll be in Alaska in a few weeks, and I have a source to buy the film there. But I would still have to bring the exposed film back to my home (CA) so I can develop it myself. I don't mind if it takes forever to reach me, I just do not want it to get x-rayed. Is there a certain carrier or shipping method I should use/avoid?

i mailed my film back from ireland when i was there because i read the dublin airport had the new type of xray that wrecks film. they did not have the new type, but my film came in the mail fine with no issues.

i too have never had an issue asking for handcheck in on domestic flights though

Twenties Superstar
Oct 24, 2005

sugoi

Megabound posted:

A reminder that if you shoot film you should visit a darkroom









35mm to 12x16, UN54 pushed 2 stops in HC110

Nice

Lhet
Apr 2, 2008

bloop



Picked up a OM-4T last weekend at a camera show and a few rolls of mystery film. Seems to be in great condition, and feels fantastic. I haven't really shot film in very many years so should be a fun little experience - the metering system makes sense on paper but I'm sure I'll need use it a fair bit to get consistent. Planning on taking it to Alaska in a couple months and hopefully will have a good grasp by then.

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Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

Lhet posted:


Picked up a OM-4T last weekend at a camera show and a few rolls of mystery film. Seems to be in great condition, and feels fantastic. I haven't really shot film in very many years so should be a fun little experience - the metering system makes sense on paper but I'm sure I'll need use it a fair bit to get consistent. Planning on taking it to Alaska in a couple months and hopefully will have a good grasp by then.

Those are great cameras, I remember looking through the viewfinder of an OM-4T having come up shooting on crop sensor DSLRs and having my mind blown at how expansive the viewfinder was. It was like going from a postage stamp at the end of a hallway to looking out a bay window.

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