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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Does anybody know if they make marine-grade exterior locksets? Our front doorknob/lock are sheltered from the sea wind, but it blows straight past our back door and that lockset is now pitted.

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Arsenic Lupin posted:

Does anybody know if they make marine-grade exterior locksets? Our front doorknob/lock are sheltered from the sea wind, but it blows straight past our back door and that lockset is now pitted.
I am sure they do but be prepared for $$$$$.

https://accuratelockandhardware.com/product/9000m-9100m-series-marine-grade/

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

The problem with not cutting the carpet is it ends under the door when closed so if I were to install something like https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-36-in-x-5-625-in-Aluminum-Wood-Door-Threshold-Install-with-Screws/3071271 I believe I would need to have it where the carpet currently is. There is about a 1/2" gap under the door so really what I'm trying to do here is eliminate a draft. I guess something like https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-36-in-x-3-75-in-Aluminum-Door-Threshold-Install-with-Screws/3125963 might work so I can just lay it over the existing carpet trim and still get a seal? I would need to drill into the concrete with that one rather than being able to use adhesive which is not my preference.

Hmm that’s tricky. Full disclosure, I have practically zero experience with carpet beyond removing it so I can’t offer much help with cutting & resecuring it. Drilling concrete is easy if you have a hammer drill but if not, renting one and buying associated bit may be more hassle than fooling with the carpet.

If you want to eliminate the draft, maybe a simple aluminum threshold plus weatherstripping for the door sill?

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Does anybody know if they make marine-grade exterior locksets? Our front doorknob/lock are sheltered from the sea wind, but it blows straight past our back door and that lockset is now pitted.

Maybe get a regular lock set and apply a couple coats of clear rustoleum?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Bloody Mayhem posted:

Thanks for both your help. I went to the hardware store and bought myself a multi tool that cuts, strips, and crimps.



I also bought two packs of spade connectors since I wasn’t sure. This is the wire/connector that was still intact.



It seems to correspond to this one I got (16-14).



The only thing I’m not sure about is that the ones in the box say “16-14 K.S” and the one still in the oven says “16-14 H” (or HT, it’s a weird inscription where the right branch of the H is also the vertical branch of the T). I’m not sure if that means anything or if they’re just brand names.

I didn’t buy more wire in the end, since there is slack. I looked at a video about crimping a spade connector and it seemed easy enough, but now that I can’t really practice I’m a bit worried. From what I gather, the wire shouldn’t go farther inside the connector than the blue plastic casing?

Thanks again.

I'm betting the H/HT stands for "high temperature", you might want to look for some labeled like that.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


Yeah I'd be a little worried about those plastic ends close to the element. Worse case you should be able to pop them off

Bloody Mayhem
Jan 25, 2007

Victimology is all over the place!

Danhenge posted:

I'm betting the H/HT stands for "high temperature", you might want to look for some labeled like that.

Opopanax posted:

Yeah I'd be a little worried about those plastic ends close to the element. Worse case you should be able to pop them off

Shoot! I’ll go back to the hardware store tomorrow then. The guy I talked to last time wasn’t as knowledgeable as I had hoped.

I hope high temperature connectors are common enough that a Home Depot would carry them. I’m not seeing anything specific on their website.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


lil poopendorfer posted:

Hmm that’s tricky. Full disclosure, I have practically zero experience with carpet beyond removing it so I can’t offer much help with cutting & resecuring it. Drilling concrete is easy if you have a hammer drill but if not, renting one and buying associated bit may be more hassle than fooling with the carpet.

If you want to eliminate the draft, maybe a simple aluminum threshold plus weatherstripping for the door sill?

I have no idea what I'm doing but I was kind of under the impression that the first threshold I linked was a simple example. It looks similar to the other two in the house.

Lawnie
Sep 6, 2006

That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
It doesn't even fit
Grimey Drawer

Bloody Mayhem posted:

Shoot! I’ll go back to the hardware store tomorrow then. The guy I talked to last time wasn’t as knowledgeable as I had hoped.

I hope high temperature connectors are common enough that a Home Depot would carry them. I’m not seeing anything specific on their website.

Is there a TrueValue or Ace near you? I have found those places have significantly more useful employees for less straightforward questions.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

Lawnie posted:

Is there a TrueValue or Ace near you? I have found those places have significantly more useful employees for less straightforward questions.

Menards are good for this too

Also, try to find the oldest guy there. Old, semi-retired guys working in hardware stores tend to be old DIY-ers or guys working to offset their woodworking habit.

Opopanax
Aug 8, 2007

I HEX YE!!!


I'd see if you can find an appliance repair place. They'll have the right parts and if you just need the one they'll probably just give it to you

Bloody Mayhem
Jan 25, 2007

Victimology is all over the place!

Lawnie posted:

Is there a TrueValue or Ace near you? I have found those places have significantly more useful employees for less straightforward questions.

CzarChasm posted:

Menards are good for this too

Also, try to find the oldest guy there. Old, semi-retired guys working in hardware stores tend to be old DIY-ers or guys working to offset their woodworking habit.

I’m in Canada so I’ve never heard of these places in my province, sadly. The guy I talked to was reasonably old, but obviously not up to the task.

If worse comes to worse, I found the connectors online but they’re gonna cost me a lot more.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Bloody Mayhem posted:

I’m in Canada so I’ve never heard of these places in my province, sadly. The guy I talked to was reasonably old, but obviously not up to the task.

If worse comes to worse, I found the connectors online but they’re gonna cost me a lot more.

You know, you can clip off the plastic after you've crimped the connector if you're worried about heat.

Sometimes, you can slide off the plastic before crimping, but then it becomes harder to crimp.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


lil poopendorfer posted:

Maybe get a regular lock set and apply a couple coats of clear rustoleum?
I didn't even know that existed. Huh!

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Bloody Mayhem posted:

I’m in Canada so I’ve never heard of these places in my province, sadly. The guy I talked to was reasonably old, but obviously not up to the task.

If worse comes to worse, I found the connectors online but they’re gonna cost me a lot more.

Try the weirdest electronic store where the graybeard HAM radio guys are, or any weird surplus store.

If all they sell is Chinese blenders and off-lease Dells, you’re in the wrong place

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I have no idea what I'm doing but I was kind of under the impression that the first threshold I linked was a simple example. It looks similar to the other two in the house.

id take some rough measurements and go the store and see/handle what they have. Grab anything you think might work and take it back home to see what is the best fit. It’s kinda hard to figure this stuff out virtually, in my experience.

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I didn't even know that existed. Huh!

I dunno what the end result would be like, but that’s basically the intended use case: protect metal from the elements. You might have to disassemble the lock set partially to ensure even coverage. Spray Rustoleum might be easier to get an even coat.

Worst case you’re out $5-10 for the Rusto :shrug:

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


wesleywillis posted:

I want to remove some screws from drywall and fill them so that in 5-10 years I can paint over them.

I just want to note that I like your realism. I feel this so much.

Lester Shy
May 1, 2002

Goodness no, now that wouldn't do at all!
My lovely dishwasher from 2021 is acting up again and I really want to avoid buying a new one before I move next year. It will complete a cycle maybe 1 in every 10 attempts. It is a very cheap model without any displays or error codes. Usually it will run half a cycle, drain, and then the motor will grind off and on for 20 minutes before it gives up. I've tried:

- cleaning every part of the filter assembly that I can reach, cleaning every part of the sprayers by hand
- running it with vinegar, CLR and some specialty "dishwasher cleaning" pod.
- Checked the air gap and disposal hoses for obstructions

Amazingly, one thing that occasionally works is to pull it out from under the counter and smack it very hard on top when it's stuck in a grinding loop. This seems to jostle something and lets the water start going for the next part of the wash cycle. Is there anything else I should try?

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
Two years old and it works like that!? For the love of god name and shame the manufacturer and model please.

Lester Shy
May 1, 2002

Goodness no, now that wouldn't do at all!
Can't find the model number anywhere, but it's a Hotpoint brand. It was the absolute cheapest dishwasher I could find. It sucks rear end and I will never buy another one, but I would not be surprised if hard water is a significant part of the problem; anything that hooks up to our water here is not long for this earth.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Lester Shy posted:

Can't find the model number anywhere, but it's a Hotpoint brand. It was the absolute cheapest dishwasher I could find. It sucks rear end and I will never buy another one, but I would not be surprised if hard water is a significant part of the problem; anything that hooks up to our water here is not long for this earth.
Is it not still under warranty?

Darchangel posted:

I just want to note that I like your realism. I feel this so much.

I know what a slacker I am.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Lester Shy posted:

My lovely dishwasher from 2021 is acting up again and I really want to avoid buying a new one before I move next year. It will complete a cycle maybe 1 in every 10 attempts. It is a very cheap model without any displays or error codes. Usually it will run half a cycle, drain, and then the motor will grind off and on for 20 minutes before it gives up. I've tried:

- cleaning every part of the filter assembly that I can reach, cleaning every part of the sprayers by hand
- running it with vinegar, CLR and some specialty "dishwasher cleaning" pod.
- Checked the air gap and disposal hoses for obstructions

Amazingly, one thing that occasionally works is to pull it out from under the counter and smack it very hard on top when it's stuck in a grinding loop. This seems to jostle something and lets the water start going for the next part of the wash cycle. Is there anything else I should try?

Have you cleaned the grinder? It's a little small blade in the sump right before the water pump. My dishwasher did that once. It turned out that a bread tie got in the dishes and jammed the grinder.

Pull the door down. Sometimes the model number is on a plate in the jamb.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Ja sounds like something's wrapped up in the impeller.

Lysandus
Jun 21, 2010
Is there a thread for whole home battery/generators,or is this the place to ask to get started? I guess the first question is how do I calculate how much kWh I need?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


You want the wiring thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Lysandus posted:

Is there a thread for whole home battery/generators,or is this the place to ask to get started? I guess the first question is how do I calculate how much kWh I need?
You'll probably get a more thorough answer from the wiring thread, but this isn't a bad place to start:
https://www.generac.com/for-homeowners/home-backup-power/build-your-generator

The real answer is going to be 'ask your electrician' though

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

In general though it can be a good exercise to do an energy audit of your house using an inline power meter for appliances and the wattage numbers for light bulbs, and ask yourself some questions about what you would be willing to do without in the case of a power outage. In other words you can choose to just buy a generator for your whole house's typical usage and live like there's no power outage, or you can buy smaller and be conscious of what you use when it's out. Can you limit yourself to one stove burner at a time and forgo oven usage? hold off on using the dryer for a few days? etc. In the olden days "can you remember to turn off lights in one room before you turn them on in the next" was a big part of this thought process too but light bulbs use a tenth of what they used to so it's a bit less relevant

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
A question about sun tunnels or “solar tubes”. Thinking of having a few put into our finished attic to let in some natural light. Do they cause heat loss/AC loss? Because as much as I’d like yo have the extra light I don’t want to ruin our insulation in any way.

CannonFodder
Jan 26, 2001

Passion’s Wrench

melon cat posted:

A question about sun tunnels or “solar tubes”. Thinking of having a few put into our finished attic to let in some natural light. Do they cause heat loss/AC loss? Because as much as I’d like yo have the extra light I don’t want to ruin our insulation in any way.
I've had solar tubes for years and haven't noticed a problem with the insulation. However it occasionally will leak in heavy rain, but that just needs a trip up to the attic to reseal where it goes through the roof.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Seems like you'd want it sealed better up on top of the roof so the water isn't leaking into the sheathing?

CannonFodder
Jan 26, 2001

Passion’s Wrench

Danhenge posted:

Seems like you'd want it sealed better up on top of the roof so the water isn't leaking into the sheathing?
Yeah, that's a better way. It only happens once every few years. Oh and the insulation / heat retention in winter / AC retention in summer is fine because the attic is very well insulated.

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


wesleywillis posted:

Its difficult to explain, and being that I'm lazy, its something thats been on and off the back burner for a while (over a year) so I forget some details of what I've already done or figured out.

Mainly what I'm trying to accomplish is figure out which wires come/go from where and how they're hooked up.
What I *suspect* is that the cable comes in, and goes to a splitter inside a wall. Then two wires come out of the wall and run beside each other under the baseboard. Both come out. One terminates and I've had that hooked up to my tv.
The other continues on, exposed before going under the baseboard and disappears in to the wall. From there I'm not quite sure where it ends up, if there are further splits or what, before it comes out again, goes under some flooring to the opposite wall and comes back out again where it terminates.

I don't have cable, but despite that, when I plug my tv in to that cable, I still get a couple actual tv channels, and some radio stations that I can listen to on my tv.
You may think "who gives a gently caress?" but (probably) as a result of lots of concrete and rebar in my building and my being on the first floor and somewhat blocked by trees radio reception is really lovely, so having a few stations to listen to via the tv is nice. Not to mention one of the "channels" that I get is the camera feed to the vestibule at my building. Useful for seeing if pizza delivery guys show up or whatever.
I do have internet, to shitpost through my phone, but I don't like streaming poo poo over that because the phone signal/data service sucks here too.

I've rearranged some furniture and and mainly interested in seeing what happens with the cable in the second wall so I can figure out if I need to run wires across the floor, or if I can fish something out of the wall to hook up my tv in the new spot.
If you can unplug it upstream, clamp the antenna of a cheap FM transmitter to the shielding and walk around waving a dollar store radio with the antenna unextended at your walls, floor, and ceiling to see where you pick up a signal.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



As a property insurance adjuster, I am fundamentally opposed to putting holes in roof decking except beyond what is absolutely necessary.

Holes are an invitation to Mother Nature, and she will oblige.

DELETE CASCADE
Oct 25, 2017

i haven't washed my penis since i jerked it to a phtotograph of george w. bush in 2003

kid sinister posted:

Have you cleaned the grinder?

and lose all my kief???

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Do I need special plumbing solder to join copper pipes, or will this "lead free rosin core electrical solder" I have already work for that?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Elder Postsman posted:

Do I need special plumbing solder to join copper pipes, or will this "lead free rosin core electrical solder" I have already work for that?

It will work fine, maybe - most electronic solder is much too thin to be practical to use for pipe sweating.

You will also need paste flux.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Thin like viscosity or thin like physical dimensions? This stuff I've got is about 1.75mm diameter.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Elder Postsman posted:

Thin like viscosity or thin like physical dimensions? This stuff I've got is about 1.75mm diameter.

I used electrical solder for pipe sweating once, because that's what I had on hand and hell if I was going to buy more solder when I hardly ever need the stuff. It works. You do need to feed in rather a lot of it, in terms of length of wire. Otherwise it works like solder. Keep the joint clean, apply flux, don't overheat the joint.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Elder Postsman posted:

Thin like viscosity or thin like physical dimensions? This stuff I've got is about 1.75mm diameter.

Physical dimensions. You'll have to feed a lot of it in very quickly and that's not super practical. It's do-able if all else is reasonable, wouldn't want to try it in a tight spot and its just incompatible with normal pipe sweating technique where you're bending a piece of solder over to wipe on the joint.

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Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Ok, cool. I'll just try using what I've got then. Thanks!

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