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So I bought some 26" Sun Rhyno Lite rims with Deore hubs about 11 years ago, rode them through a few winters on the east coast, then shipped them to the pacific northwest and rode them sparingly since. The rear wheel has started to have some play in it, like I can move it left and right with my hand. I repacked the bearings and tightened the cones, but it still comes loose almost immediately once I start riding. Is the hub likely toast? Should I try getting new bearings? I just checked and I paid $107 total for both new from Jenson USA. drat! Things used to be cheap. What would be a good replacement wheel nowadays? Maybe something with a cartridge bearing?
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Mar 19, 2023 07:17
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SimonSays posted:Why not use the 10-speed ones? Otherwise yeah it's eBay or parts bins because no way anyone is going to bother making non-hyperglide double chainrings in tyool 2023. I hadn't bothered to look up the compatibility of 10spd with my drivetrain. I'm already on an 8spd chain. Unfortunately the more I look at the cranks I'm not sure they'll support having chainrings replaced. I had assumed that peeling back the plastic cover on the spider would expose the chainring bolts, but instead it looks like the rings are riveted together and possible only attached at the 28t little cog and nowhere else. I'd be skeptical about fitting the size chainrings I want or fitting more than one with that tiny BCD and how tight to the bottom bracket the bolts are. It's a late 90s suntour sr powerflo front triple for reference. It's probable I'll just need new cranks too, but I was hoping to avoid having to go down the "you need new cranks, which don't work with your derailleur, and a new front derailleur won't work with your shifter, so replace that too" rabbit hole. This bike was never nice and really never needs to be anything more than a beater that just runs okay. Looks like I'm probably eBay hunting for a retro crankset with replaceable chainrings and hoping its a) going to work with existing parts and b) not a scam in some way.
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Mar 19, 2023 14:48
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meltie posted:Maybe a stem with a less-tall clamp? Maybe in conjunction with a lower stack headset cover.
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Mar 19, 2023 14:55
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I hadn't bothered to look up the compatibility of 10spd with my drivetrain. I'm already on an 8spd chain. Hello, I'm you, I'm here from the future to warn you you're about to go down a rabbit hole where nothing is compatible with anything else and you don't find out until you've spent 5x the value of the bike and it still shifts like garbage and you donate it after finally just buying an entry level hardtail. *ghost noises
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Mar 19, 2023 14:58
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VelociBacon posted:Hello, I'm you, I'm here from the future to warn you you're about to go down a rabbit hole where nothing is compatible with anything else and you don't find out until you've spent 5x the value of the bike and it still shifts like garbage and you donate it after finally just buying an entry level hardtail. It's all shimano drivetrain otherwise, so a 90s shimano deore triple should be hopefully be spaced properly, or close enough that I can adjust the front derailleur to work, I hope. E: For instance, these look not the worst wear-wise and I think would work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2558572246...ABk9SR_6elKTfYQ Or these, for a chunk more cash: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2661154189...4&ul_noapp=true Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 15:03
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Yeep posted:poo poo https://www.hambini.com/increasing-the-length-stack-height-of-a-fork-steerer-cut-to-short/
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Mar 19, 2023 16:09
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frogbs posted:I repacked the bearings and tightened the cones, but it still comes loose almost immediately once I start riding. The first is more likely. Did you make sure to lock the cone against the locknut?
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Mar 19, 2023 18:55
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CopperHound posted:The first is more likely. Did you make sure to lock the cone against the locknut? I think this is likely the case after doing more reading. Am going to open everything back up today...
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Mar 19, 2023 19:38
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It could also be the axle being slightly bent but that's fairly easy to check if you're opening the hub.
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Mar 19, 2023 19:51
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Had to abandon a gravel ride yesterday after a loud snap sound from my rear wheel, and then zero catch on my freehub. It turned both directions independent of the rear wheel, though with some roughness. Took it apart today:   2 of 3 pawls ripped right off the freehub body with fatal damage. They were in pieces floating around in the ratchet area. Time to warranty, as the wheels are only 5 months old and I only rode gravel occasionally. Fulcrum rapid red 5 db. Anyone have a clue what can cause this, or if there’s any known issues with Fulcrum freehubs. There were no warning signs.
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Mar 19, 2023 20:22
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Looks like a terrible (but common) freehub design where a single spring band and the dimensions of the ratchet are the only things keeping the pawls in their recesses. Compare your Fulcrum freehub to a White Industries freehub where the ends of the pawls are almost fully encircled. 
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Mar 20, 2023 00:03
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Yeah, my hope hubs both look similar to the white industries one. Disturbing that this freehub is a shared Fulcrum/Campagnolo part used on all their current gen wheels - if it’s truly that bad. I might’ve only used these wheels 10 times from new.
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Mar 20, 2023 00:24
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mikemelbrooks posted:you could do something like this. I don’t think I’d do that for a mountain bike.
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Mar 20, 2023 00:41
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I would use one of these https://www.velobike.co.nz/collections/all-bike-components/products/steerer-tube-extender
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Mar 20, 2023 01:38
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The more I look around, the most cost effective way to replace the cranks/chainrings on the lovely winter bike is just going to be to buy the new version of the old disposable parts that are already on it: https://www.performancebike.com/shimano-tourney-fcty501-crankset-black-3-x-6-7-8-speed-square-taper-170mm-48-38-28t-efcty501c888clb/p1276693 It feels kinda lovely but it's what makes sense if it's just going to get eaten alive by road salt in a handful of years and never needs to have any performance qualities.
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Mar 21, 2023 04:00
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my friend currently has a Shimano FC-R563 crankset + chainrings of which the latter are in dire need of replacement, can I just stick on three FC-5703 chainrings? (fwiw, outer, middle, inner)
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Mar 28, 2023 17:47
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Can't see why it wouldn't work, the cranks look pretty much identical.
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Mar 28, 2023 20:10
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In the meantime I've discovered that the inner ring on the FC-563 apparently/probably has a BCD of 92 mm, whereas the inner ring on the FC-5703 has a BCD of 74 mm... so that's one reason it possibly won't work. I guess I'll make sure to bring an inner ring with a 92 mm BCD, such as the FC-6703, along as well, just to be sure. Can't find any M8x9.1mm chainring bolts though, which I might need should the ones currently on there turn out to be unusable after coming off. Any tips to preserve them as well as I can while taking apart the chainring?
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Mar 28, 2023 20:30
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Lex Neville posted:Can't find any M8x9.1mm chainring bolts though, which I might need should the ones currently on there turn out to be unusable after coming off. Any tips to preserve them as well as I can while taking apart the chainring? Just don't round off the bolts and you're fine? The Shimano chainring bolts have threadlocking compound on them or something, they come off incredibly suddenly so watch your knuckles.
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Mar 28, 2023 20:58
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Haha, I was unclear I suppose. I meant: any tips on how to 100%, definitely get them loose without rounding them off? Thanks for the advice re: their suddenly coming loose though, that's good to know 
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Mar 28, 2023 21:26
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Lex Neville posted:Haha, I was unclear I suppose. I meant: any tips on how to 100%, definitely get them loose without rounding them off? Thanks for the advice re: their suddenly coming loose though, that's good to know Heat em up first, go at it while they're cooling back down. The different thermal expansion rates will help break loose the thread locker.
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Mar 28, 2023 21:47
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Lex Neville posted:In the meantime I've discovered that the inner ring on the FC-563 apparently/probably has a BCD of 92 mm, whereas the inner ring on the FC-5703 has a BCD of 74 mm... so that's one reason it possibly won't work. I guess I'll make sure to bring an inner ring with a 92 mm BCD, such as the FC-6703, along as well, just to be sure. Ugh, I thought they used non bullshit bcds with that look of cranks.
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Mar 29, 2023 06:47
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bicievino posted:Heat em up first, go at it while they're cooling back down. The different thermal expansion rates will help break loose the thread locker. Good to know, thanks!
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Mar 29, 2023 07:14
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Lex Neville posted:Haha, I was unclear I suppose. I meant: any tips on how to 100%, definitely get them loose without rounding them off? Thanks for the advice re: their suddenly coming loose though, that's good to know I find it easier to take the crank off. Put a Allen key in a vise and twist the crank, it also allows you to hold the slotted nut easier once the chainring bolt has loosened.
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Mar 29, 2023 09:32
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Lex Neville posted:Any tips to preserve them as well as I can while taking apart the chainring? Having better hex wrenches can damage/distort the holes less, but maybe not worth jumping to that for this project. I've been happy with Wera, but even those are miracle workers -- I've still rounded out bolts that are shallow and loose tolerance. And even here, you can end up needing 2 M5 wrenches. If the nut side has the cheap bolts that are only the slots, no hex hole, you'll do better with a specific tool. Without one, the moment you loosen the bolt, the assembly will start spinning on the spider/chainring sandwich. Most of the time, I haven’t had success with older hardware coming apart with just a flat head jammed against the slot.
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Mar 29, 2023 13:49
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it all worked out in the end! no hiccups whatsoever, friend is happily riding around with his new drivetrain. thanks again guys
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Mar 30, 2023 18:25
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mikemelbrooks posted:you could do something like this. I've managed to source a stem with 10mm less stack which should fix this. Unfortunately I'm having no luck at all finding 20mm endcaps for my hub. It's a DT Swiss 240 Oversize from about 2006 and the internal measurement is definitely 20mm but it came to me second hand with push fit QR caps on. The 240 has had screw on endcaps since at least 2010 which is the earliest I can find any information online for and the set I ordered based on the DT online support tool (and returned) definitely don't fit.    Edit: LBS finally got a reply from DT. Apparently it needs a new axle as well as end caps. Still cheaper (just) than a replacement second hand 20mm wheel. Yeep fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 4, 2023 |
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Apr 4, 2023 16:40
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I had a crappy simplex derailleur from the '70s that I replaced with a thing from the parts bins at the coop and though it's so much smoother to shift and everything, I'm still having an issue with smallest chainring to nearly anything in the back causing the chain to lose tension and hang when you move the pedals backwards. I replaced the chain and sized it down a bit using the largest chainring and cog because the original was a bit too large using that method. Problem still persists. Any thoughts?
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Apr 4, 2023 18:57
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Mauser posted:I had a crappy simplex derailleur from the '70s that I replaced with a thing from the parts bins at the coop and though it's so much smoother to shift and everything, I'm still having an issue with smallest chainring to nearly anything in the back causing the chain to lose tension and hang when you move the pedals backwards. I would start with servicing your cassette body / freewheel, although it's a bit odd that it's only an issue in the small chainring. Could be a weak spring in the new RD?
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Apr 4, 2023 19:09
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bicievino posted:I would start with servicing your cassette body / freewheel, although it's a bit odd that it's only an issue in the small chainring. oh that's probably it. Is there a particular type of lube I should be using to grease it back up? The larger chainring keeps the chain more taught and smaller chainring to largest cog also does similar.
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Apr 4, 2023 19:30
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I thought you weren't supposed to ride in small/small anyway
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Apr 4, 2023 19:40
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It's a 2x5 and it happens on the smallest four cogs. There's enough clearance on the front to do small small  edit: I don't think I've ever actually used it though
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Apr 4, 2023 19:56
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Mauser posted:oh that's probably it. Is there a particular type of lube I should be using to grease it back up? I use Phil Wood's tenacious oil for freehubs and cassette bodies. You don't want a tacky grease on the ratchet mechanism because it will only partially engage, slip, and get damaged.
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Apr 4, 2023 20:10
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Mauser posted:The larger chainring keeps the chain more taught and smaller chainring to largest cog also does similar. this sounds like the derailleur isn't strong enough to maintain tension when it is taking up as much slack as possible. when you are in large/large, is there room to take any links of the chain out? that could be a fudging it sort of solution...
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Apr 5, 2023 04:27
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I've got another derailleur I could try that I know is in good shape, but I'm going to try cleaning out or just replacing the freewheel first. The pedals tend to move around a bit when you're rolling the thing which is pushing me in that direction. The bike is going to be 50 years old next year if I identified it correctly in the catalog scans I found online
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Apr 5, 2023 09:50
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bicievino posted:I use Phil Wood's tenacious oil for freehubs and cassette bodies. You don't want a tacky grease on the ratchet mechanism because it will only partially engage, slip, and get damaged. Could honestly get away with just using wet chain lube IMO, but yes this stuff is great
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Apr 5, 2023 14:31
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Took the wheel off and gave the freewheel a spin and it's so gunked up that it requires a mild amount of force to actually rotate. Going to clean it out and grease it up once the freewheel tool gets here and hopefully that'll be all that needs to get done.
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Apr 5, 2023 18:23
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Often times you can get a freewheel spinning okay again by flushing oil through. Just pool up a little oil in the red area and give it a spin. Repeat as needed. Disassembling a freewheel is not reccomended and you should have a replacement available in the likely event that it doesn't go well. e: By "doesn't go well" I am referring to eighty tiny loose ball bearings just going everywhere. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Apr 5, 2023 |
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Apr 5, 2023 19:18
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oh yeah no way am I disassembling it. I just want to take it off the wheel so I can get at it with without making a huge mess and I didn't have the little two pronged socket that fits this thing
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Apr 5, 2023 19:35
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Mauser posted:two pronged socket that fits this thing
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Apr 5, 2023 19:37
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