|
Powershift posted:A new clockspring is $300 and junkyard ones are all junk, so i just put the original non-cruise control one back in, and did the hackiest hack on the buttons and jammed them into the pre-exising holes. The ford 5 buttons all share 1 feed and 1 signal wire and just have different resistance between them, so i guess i have to stick with the stock buttons for now. I'll probably integrate them nicely at some point, i want to do a 05+ dash panel swap though. The bug soft button is wired to the horn. I'm going to label it "start" so if someone other than me tries to start it they honk the horn. Please do that! Once you figure out the resistances, it's fairly easy to build a set of switches yourself, but that works right there. Mustache Ride posted:Hot wired the truck to get it back in my driveway after living on the street for the remodel. Did some rear end in a top hat kids try to steal it? WTF? Imperador do Brasil posted:Just a bit of timing work on the boy’s Del Sol. Surprisingly hard to find the actual reference point info for the base ‘94 engine so it took a couple of tries to get the timing just right after replacing the belt. The cam was a tooth off because “flat” doesn’t always mean “flat”, sometimes it means “flat in relation to this unspecified-in-the-literature reference point”. So are you supposed to eyeball the pointer between the V-groove like gunsights, then line up the mark to the pointer? I can kind of see that making sense if the pointer can't be close to the mark for whatever reason.
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 18:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 06:58 |
|
|
Installed a 3D printed mount that replaces the license plate light on my Crown Vic.  Added a second bulb socket and bulb to even out lighting. Probably not legally necessary, but I'm... me. This is revision 4, byt the way. IT was a learning process, but 3D printing made it pretty easy. Tinkercad rocks for relatively simple stuff, too, BTW.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 20:27
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:So are you supposed to eyeball the pointer between the V-groove like gunsights, then line up the mark to the pointer? I can kind of see that making sense if the pointer can't be close to the mark for whatever reason. White timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the pointer and between the “teeth” on the timing cover when looking from above yeah. LloydDobler posted:What about the mark on the bottom near that sharp thing? Looks like a classic timing mark to me. I know nothing of your engine though, and yeah the only timing marks I've had complete confidence in are the ones on timing gears where the marked teeth mesh together. So the crank pulley has a painted white line that goes between the “teeth” on the timing cover and lines up with the sharp pointer. The issue I was having was the cam marks make no real sense in and of themselves. “Up” on the cam pulley just means “this is the top of the pulley, dummy” so you don’t end up 180° off. chrisgt posted:ahhhh, those stupid engines. Who in the hell thought it was a good idea to put the two stupid flat marks??? If you buy the gates kit, the documentation is pretty good, so is alldata. Honda used that nonsense for at least another decade. Easy timing belts to access (for fwd) but yea, I always hated those marks. At least once you have the belt on and everything is assembled, re-timing the cam is easy. Just take the valve cover and upper timing cover off (5 minutes total), pull the tensioner bolt cover plug and loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off the cam gear (it’s captive on the crank gear) and adjust the cam. You just have to KNOW that the flat marks are supposed to be at a slight angle.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 21:08
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:If you buy the gates kit, the documentation is pretty good But then you're stuck with the garbage water pump and pulleys Gates includes these days. I'll trust them for anything rubber, but nothing metal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 22:50
|
|
|
STR posted:But then you're stuck with the garbage water pump and pulleys Gates includes these days. I've always hated the Gates water pumps, fwiw. Especially the Mitsubishi 6G7 pumps that they send the impeller/pulley half of the case, but you need to disassemble and reuse the back case from the old pump. Normally for water pumps I try to order whatever the OEM uses for their manufacturer, but generally Hitachi or Aisin have been my go-to.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 22:53
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Did some rear end in a top hat kids try to steal it? WTF? Yes, we had some kids come check for open doors on the street in November of last year, and of course the new door locks that I have keys for were in the truck waiting to be installed (gone now). They came back a week later and took a screw driver to the lock cylinder, breaking it to pieces trying to get it to start. I had put a battery disconnect on it early that year so it wasn't going anywhere, and I wonder how they planned to get rid of a 1/1 car in the state, or even get it out of the driveway when it sounds like a loving muscle car starting up, but what do I know. I filed a police report but they said if I still had the car they won't do anything. Thanks APD, shitheels.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 23:14
|
|
|
Mustache Ride posted:Yes, we had some kids come check for open doors on the street in November of last year, and of course the new door locks that I have keys for were in the truck waiting to be installed (gone now). They came back a week later and took a screw driver to the lock cylinder, breaking it to pieces trying to get it to start. I had put a battery disconnect on it early that year so it wasn't going anywhere, and I wonder how they planned to get rid of a 1/1 car in the state, or even get it out of the driveway when it sounds like a loving muscle car starting up, but what do I know. Thieves be dumb. If they were smart, they wouldn't be trying to jack extremely identifiable old cars, I guess. And cops are just useless parasites on society, sorry. PitViper posted:I've always hated the Gates water pumps, fwiw. Especially the Mitsubishi 6G7 pumps that they send the impeller/pulley half of the case, but you need to disassemble and reuse the back case from the old pump. Normally for water pumps I try to order whatever the OEM uses for their manufacturer, but generally Hitachi or Aisin have been my go-to. As I recall, I ordered a separate belt, water pump, and tensioner/idler when I did the Kia before selling it, for exactly the reasons STR cited. Internet wisdom and reviews backed that up specifically for the Spectra/Spectra5. Ended up with OEM pieces on the tensioner, no name (literally) on the idler, can't remember, but not Gates on the WP, and a Gates belt (Gates is OEM.) I mean, I was selling it, but just in case, I didn't want to gently caress over future me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 4, 2023 23:33
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:Just a bit of timing work on the boy’s Del Sol. Surprisingly hard to find the actual reference point info for the base ‘94 engine so it took a couple of tries to get the timing just right after replacing the belt. The cam was a tooth off because “flat” doesn’t always mean “flat”, sometimes it means “flat in relation to this unspecified-in-the-literature reference point”. It's deeply frustrating and stupid. I can't count the number of times i've fixed that and "oh my God it's so much better". The average modified single cam I worked on made 70-90 whp first pull on the dyno and left just over 100 whp. Maybe 110. Check base ignition timing, if you can't fix, check timing belt. Fix that. Set tps correctly. Set fuel pressure. Pull again. Get nicknamed "the honda whisperer" Not a how to, just a oops its a tooth off was my bread and butter for a long time. 90% estimated they were making 140-160 whp before the first pull.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 02:32
|
|
|
honda whisperer posted:It's deeply frustrating and stupid. I can't count the number of times i've fixed that and "oh my God it's so much better".  I like your origin story and also the honda dyno dreamers
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 13:19
|
|
|
I was asking about this thing, because even if it's not actually a timing mark, if it lines up when the engine is timed, then it's a timing mark. Not trying to be a dick or anything, just curious. I don't know these engines.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 17:25
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Installed a 3D printed mount that replaces the license plate light on my Crown Vic. Cool! I'm thinking of doing a similar thing on my E39 Touring since it seems like all the reverse cam mounts are for the sedan. I like your "I'm not a cop" bit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 17:33
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:At least once you have the belt on and everything is assembled, re-timing the cam is easy. Just take the valve cover and upper timing cover off (5 minutes total), pull the tensioner bolt cover plug and loosen the tensioner. Slip the belt off the cam gear (it’s captive on the crank gear) and adjust the cam. You just have to KNOW that the flat marks are supposed to be at a slight angle. it lines up with the top surface of the head where the valve cover gasket goes, doesn't it? That's why it's at a bit of an angle, the engine isn't in the car perfectly flat. I used to stick picket screwdrivers or something in the gap to line up the marks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 18:50
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:I was asking about this thing, because even if it's not actually a timing mark, if it lines up when the engine is timed, then it's a timing mark. Not trying to be a dick or anything, just curious. I don't know these engines. Yeah but it’s not even exactly lined up. It’s like one tooth off when the actual flat timing marks are lined up correctly. chrisgt posted:it lines up with the top surface of the head where the valve cover gasket goes, doesn't it? That's why it's at a bit of an angle, the engine isn't in the car perfectly flat. I used to stick picket screwdrivers or something in the gap to line up the marks. Yeah exactly. We ended up using a metal square and a screwdriver as a pointer to confirm in the end. It was just difficult to find information that the head surface was the reference point. On my B16, there are actual timing arrows behind the cam gears for the flat lines to square up with, and you don’t have to rely on a separate surface for reference.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 19:12
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Cool! I'm thinking of doing a similar thing on my E39 Touring since it seems like all the reverse cam mounts are for the sedan. Thanks! I saw that plate trim on someone else's P71 online, and couldn't resist. I caught someone behind me laughing with their phone pointed at it a while back, and it made me happy that someone else got a chuckle. That's one of the reasons I did the camera mount. The license plate mount obscured the "Relax" part. :P The other is I just like the cleaner, more solid mount.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2023 20:56
|
|
|
The Land rover ownership experience demonstrated in 6 photos:     
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2023 20:37
|
|
|
Oof that sucks. Is that the demanded way to open it's timing cover?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2023 20:43
|
|
|
Did a compound/polish on the EM1. I guarantee it’s never been detailed in its 23-year-life, and this was my first time so there’s 100% room for improvement.  
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2023 23:06
|
|
|
I've been losing small(ish) amounts of oil lately, only at track events. It's less than a quart per weekend, but I'd prefer to not burn oil. I decided to splurge on Improved Racing's stuff for oil control: it's not cheap, but neither are fresh crate motors, and it seems better engineered than some other brands. So I got a catch can, windage tray, and oil pan baffle. Pulling the oil pan is pretty high effort and I'm holding off on that job, but at least it' shares a lot of steps with the front sway bar install. It looks like oil is coming through the PCV into the intake tube:  Now with 7oz catch can with very overdesigned filter media  Since this is California and oil/air separators are specifically called out as not requiring CARB approval, I'm going to have to print off and highlight pages of a state pdf when I take it in for smog check. I'm also going to have to put the stock airbox back on for a bit.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2023 06:05
|
|
|
heffray posted:I've been losing small(ish) amounts of oil lately, only at track events. It's less than a quart per weekend, but I'd prefer to not burn oil. I've been looking at Motion Raceworks or Mighty Mouse catch cans so that I get some filtering into the air recirc'd from the valve covers. The A&A Supercharger kit just runs a line from the oil fill cap to the intake.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2023 23:37
|
|
|
Cleaned out the throttle body on the Mazda 6. Now the gas pedal works smooth and nice again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2023 15:48
|
|
|
^^^^ I remember doing that on my Mitsubishi Carisma with the GDI engine where it was infamous for gunking up the throttle body in 10 seconds and the drat throttle was sticking when going from closed to open. Like had to hard press the pedal to unstuck it. Dangerous. Waiting for all the stuff for the cooling system to arrive, but put in the head unit I ordered:  It looks like it has a bigger gap to the left, but it's mostly due to more shadow. But the fit isn't a 100%. I think I might have to adjust the passenger side of the whole trim, but the mounting brackets sucked, and it was a nightmare to get the screws that hold the unit into the holes, so I'll leave it for now. Otherwise it seems like a decent unit, and was recommended as the best alternative to the expensive US ones. Importing one of the nicer ones from US would cost an insane amount of money. Have ordered a reverse camera as well. Basically the whole point of doing this as my wife really wants either parking sensors (not doing a retrofit) or a camera for reversing. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Apr 10, 2023 |
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2023 11:59
|
|
|
Can't get the dealer to lube up my front sway bar bushings because it doesn't have zerk fittings. What the gently caress, just undo 6 bolts and slop some grease on them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2023 17:56
|
|
|
unzin posted:Can't get the dealer to lube up my front sway bar bushings because it doesn't have zerk fittings. What the gently caress, just undo 6 bolts and slop some grease on them. What's the reason for doing this, do they squeak? Depending on what the bushings are made of, petroleum based grease might be bad for them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2023 22:29
|
|
|
Last week I was driving my M3 home from Costco and it had some issues. Got these codes: The most common culprit for that is a bad injector or maybe an O2 sensor. So I decided to start poking around today.  An all too common sight for me. Someone on the F80 forum had mentioned that they'd seen spark plugs back out and cause something similar. I did the plugs 6000 miles ago. Got everything apart and the cylinder 5 coil pack was not securely attached to the plug.   I think some explosions escaped. I put a new plug in and made sure all of the others were torqued down properly. Not too bad of a job but I'm getting good at taking all the things off the top to get down there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2023 01:57
|
|
|
Painted the valence behind the bumper. Well, let dad learn on it. Will have to sand one run off and color sand, but he didn't do too poorly.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2023 02:40
|
|
|
Finally got the garage cleaned out enough to get my car in - first time this car has been in it. Well now I know why the PO went to a dealer to get the headlights aimed, and why I've had such a hard time getting them to light up the road properly..  (Eagle Eyes generally suck, gimme DEPO or OEM) Also noticed a shitload of paint chips (down to metal) on the hood, also through the paint on the front bumper (which needs replacing anyway). I was behind a lifted bro truck the other day and heard a few PINGs off the windshield. Guess BRO had a bunch of gravel in his tread.   (the entire hood is pockmarked) The paint wasn't fantastic to begin with (but it was solid for a 2008), and the front bumper has definitely generated some venison (I suspect that's why it has new headlamp assemblies...), but it was a solid 20 footer. There's a 2011 or 2012 at the junkyard, I THINK the front bumper will fit if I grab the headlights too (same generation, but post facelift). Same with the hood.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2023 09:20
|
|
|
unzin posted:Can't get the dealer to lube up my front sway bar bushings because it doesn't have zerk fittings. What the gently caress, just undo 6 bolts and slop some grease on them. It's not always that easy, what year, make and model do you own? I recently swapped out the front sway bar on my Scion and it was a pain in the dick, I had to disconnect the passenger side control arm to get it out which then meant I had to pre load the control arm bushing at ride level when putting it back together. All that would have had to be done to grease the bushings as well so hopefully I won't have to do that anytime soon lol.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2023 13:10
|
|
|
The more important question is "do you live in the rust belt?" Those fuckers are gonna snap if it's 10+ years old here.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2023 17:28
|
|
|
Vacuumed and recharged the new to me JDM twin turbo GTO’s AC today. I have to say since learning how to properly do some AC things last summer it is very very satisfying. Lots of my imports come in with weak or non functioning AC and so far a vacuum down/check for leaks and recharge has got everything back working 100%. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2023 02:01
|
|
|
I really do live up to my name.    Ford Reman lasted 17k-miles. Time to throw #4 at it with less than 100k-miles on the vehicle. Looks to be a potential pcm software recall to prevent the turbine from spinning backwards in edge cases. No real upgrade path while maintaining emissions legality so I get to this again and again and again and again. Local shop aint wanna touch it, nobody wants to work, etc. Nearest dealer is 200 miles away and as of right now, a compatible replacement is on backorder. I'm going to fix and sell this truck.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2023 21:53
|
|
|
Fffffff. This is the new truck, isn't it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2023 03:43
|
|
|
Ooof... I did my E39s cooling system yesterday and besides it looking pretty different to all the guides I could find, it was a pretty ok job. I wish they'd include new bolts and nuts in the hardware kits though. I lucked out having 2 spare clamps for the overflow hose and an exact match for the thermostat bolt that broke off as I tried to remove it. Had to do the "weld a nut to the stud" trick to get it off. Never been more happy to have a welder. I found the probable reason for the check engine light (lean code) as well - the smaller ribbed hose on the lower intake boot has a big crack. Thankfully not an expensive part. I also did an oil change and used a bottle of Liqui Moly engine cleaner and put some liqui moly oil in it. Sounds quieter and ran great on the way home. Having most of the cooling system refreshed is a big worry gone, but I might need to redo the bleeding. Had no issues on the drive home though except for it taking a while to reach operating temperature. Also checked my DISA and no sign of the flap / bolt failing, and the membrane works like it should. I should probably get a new O-ring though as it looks a bit crushed. Still to do is diff oil, spark plugs, auto trans refresh. Oil seals and stuff in the future, as well as suspension refresh. The touring has the rear window at a perfect level for my dog to be able to lie down while looking out the rear. Seemed to have a great time just watching everything going on. 10/10 car.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2023 05:10
|
|
|
The S2000 clutch interlock switch connector is easy to access. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2023 23:16
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:The S2000 clutch interlock switch connector is easy to access. Is that sarcasm? For some reason I feel like that’s sarcasm. I know it’s sarcasm.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 06:10
|
|
|
Axle swap! I’m going to be sore tomorrow. Improvised substitute for a slide hammer - bolt an old brake drum on it backwards and give it a good yank.     68 Olds Cutlass. Limited slip Pontiac axle I put in it needs a rebuild so I’ve switched back to my original one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 06:40
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:The S2000 clutch interlock switch connector is easy to access. I hope you have padding down to protect you from that great big chassis bar that's probably right under your back there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 07:05
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:I hope you have padding down to protect you from that great big chassis bar that's probably right under your back there. No padding…honestly it wasn’t that uncomfortable resting my lumbar area on the square rail, but the extraction procedure was interesting. Arch back, shuffle feet over from the roll hoop to the door opening and then slowly down to the floor so as to avoid sudden jerking drops (you just had a total hip replacement, remember), and sorta crab yourself out from under the steering wheel like a cirque du soleil acrobat. Emerge triumphant. Pesky things like “spine” and “head” really get in the way, but it was a total of maybe 25 minutes including seat removal/replacement and vacuuming the carpet while I had the seat out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 08:30
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:The S2000 clutch interlock switch connector is easy to access. The column is still bolted to the dash, so it already looks easier than the Saturn Ion/Chevy Cobalt/Pontiac G6. (you usually have to replace the pedal assembly before the switch though.. GM finally started making an insert for the Ion pedal, not the others though)
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 11:41
|
|
|
Imperador do Brasil posted:The S2000 clutch interlock switch connector is easy to access. Hope I don't have to do that to mine...
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 15:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 06:58 |
|
|
Gave it away. One of my friends is just a magnet for bad luck and found himself without a running vehicle. I just acquired a second 3rd Gen 4Runner (2002), so I gave him my '99. It's a beater, but it runs solid and has ice cold AC and a new stereo. Godspeed, lil' runner.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2023 15:23
|
|
