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George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Gonna lol from beyond the grave when they finally make Everest wheelchair accessible.

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orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Buddy they won't even let me gently caress the Hillary Step

Slotducks
Oct 16, 2008

Nobody puts Phil in a corner.


everest isn't even vegan friendly wheelchair accessibility law cant be applied to existing structure from before legislation even passed!!!

AceClown
Sep 11, 2005

Aphex- posted:

Pretty sure I've posted this before but Alan Arnette's blog about climbing K2 is excellent and really makes you realise how loving hard it is. The summit push and descent report are really well written and I feel exhausted just reading it.

lmao the gently caress is wrong with these people

quote:

I felt alive and fulfilled.

As I arrived at Camp 2 , Camp 3 and Camp 4 a cough had developed that I dismissed as normal high altitude climbing. But in fact it was High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema aka HAPE, a fatal condition where the lungs fill with fluids stopping breathing.

The only cure is descending .. and I was climbing higher.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

AceClown posted:

lmao the gently caress is wrong with these people

oxygen deprivation destroys your ability to make decisions, even when you're in mortal peril

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

i get that the thread has a justifiable hate for everest climbers, how does the thread feel about alpinists? is climbing the alps okay

Tenkaris
Feb 10, 2006

I would really prefer if you would be quiet.

Leperflesh posted:

oxygen deprivation destroys your ability to make decisions, even when you're in mortal peril

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUfF2MTnqAw&t=253s

timestamped at 4:13 if it doesn't work -- watch how long it takes Destin, a smart dude, to go from being a smart man to being told point blank "you will die if you don't put your mask back on" and just chuckling and saying he doesn't want to die.

AceClown
Sep 11, 2005

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

i get that the thread has a justifiable hate for everest climbers, how does the thread feel about alpinists? is climbing the alps okay

I think as a whole this thread has a baseline respect for the broken professionals who make it their life's work, admiration for the sherpas and support crew, grudging respect for serious hobbyists and outright disdain for dipshit rich fucks who are just doing a box ticking exercise.

rotinaj
Sep 5, 2008

Fun Shoe
What fluid does a person’s lungs fill with during HAPE? Their own blood? That’s extremely metal, if so

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:

AceClown posted:

I think as a whole this thread has a baseline respect for the broken professionals who make it their life's work, admiration for the sherpas and support crew, grudging respect for serious hobbyists and outright disdain for dipshit rich fucks who are just doing a box ticking exercise.

Basically this

20 Blunts
Jan 21, 2017
You can climb Alps in like wooden shoes and goofy outfits I think. You have to Bring strange medieval horns and lutes tho

Ohtori Akio
Jul 15, 2022

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

i get that the thread has a justifiable hate for everest climbers, how does the thread feel about alpinists? is climbing the alps okay

i think doing the long scramble up the matterhorn is pretty cool. hell id do it if i was a good rock ice snow scrambler and in good enough shape. you wake up early, climb up and down, then you can take a hot shower at the end of the day

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

AceClown posted:

I think as a whole this thread has a baseline respect for the broken professionals who make it their life's work, admiration for the sherpas and support crew, grudging respect for serious hobbyists and outright disdain for dipshit rich fucks who are just doing a box ticking exercise.

I'll add that part of the disdain for the dipshit rich fucks is that sherpas sometimes die, in service to their box ticking exercise.

Outrail
Jan 4, 2009

www.sapphicrobotica.com
:roboluv: :love: :roboluv:
Selling body retrieval insurance at base camp would be a great grift.

Fine print: insuree must request body retrieval in person.

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


rotinaj posted:

What fluid does a person’s lungs fill with during HAPE? Their own blood? That’s extremely metal, if so

water from your own plasma, hypothetically squeezed out of your capillaries due to a gradient established by higher pulmonary blood pressure and reduced air pressure

the exact physiological cause is not concretely known. this and other barotrauma conditions are difficult to research because it's a very dangerous condition to subject upon someone.

the navy has been doing saturation diving research for generations and has a trove of medical information on blood/tissue saturation of gasses and substances in vast tables of pressures and times and mixes, but it's hard to impossible to probe the lung and watch microscopic changes take place in real time, all within a tiny pressurized habitat

we have done some -- but not as much -- low pressure research for high altitude emergencies and spaceflight habitability, and we understand cause and effect at a macro scale fairly well. similarly, though, it's unethical to subject even a willing volunteer to a dangerously low pressures for extended periods of time as it's a condition that carries the threat of brain damage. it's also impractical to probe the lungs and watch what the tissue is doing, so what we know mostly comes from analysis of exhaled gas, blood samples, and aptitude tests.

source: family friend who used to do this in the navy and now studies barotrauma resilience in penguins. he sets up a pair of tiny catheters into an air sac in a penguin's lungs and an artery. Samples are drawn during dives using a microcontroller and tiny syringes under vacuum. The penguins survive without harm and it is not thought they stuffer more than an itch (plus the nuisance of being abducted by aliens for the installation and removal)

Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Apr 6, 2023

rotinaj
Sep 5, 2008

Fun Shoe

Potato Salad posted:

water from your own plasma, hypothetically squeezed out of your capillaries due to a gradient established by higher pulmonary blood pressure and reduced air pressure

the exact physiological cause is not concretely known. this and other barotrauma conditions are difficult to research because it's a very dangerous condition to subject upon someone.

the navy has been doing saturation diving research for generations and has a trove of medical information on blood/tissue saturation of gasses and substances in vast tables of pressures and times and mixes, but it's hard to impossible to probe the lung and watch microscopic changes take place in real time, all within a tiny pressurized habitat

we have done some -- but not as much -- low pressure research for high altitude emergencies and spaceflight habitability, and we understand cause and effect at a macro scale fairly well. similarly, though, it's unethical to subject even a willing volunteer to a dangerously low pressures for extended periods of time as it's a condition that carries the threat of brain damage. it's also impractical to probe the lungs and watch what the tissue is doing, so what we know mostly comes from analysis of exhaled gas, blood samples, and aptitude tests.

source: family friend who used to do this in the navy and now studies barotrauma resilience in penguins. he sets up a pair of tiny catheters into an air sac in a penguin's lungs and an artery. Samples are drawn during dives using a microcontroller and tiny syringes under vacuum. The penguins survive without harm and it is not thought they stuffer more than an itch (plus the nuisance of being abducted by aliens for the installation and removal)

Extremely metal

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Ohtori Akio posted:

i think doing the long scramble up the matterhorn is pretty cool. hell id do it if i was a good rock ice snow scrambler and in good enough shape. you wake up early, climb up and down, then you can take a hot shower at the end of the day

Lol I think you're underestimating it, please wear a gopro and record your attempt

e: I got the top of it in a photo this morning, it's just peeking out on the skyline above the cabin

knox_harrington fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Apr 6, 2023

PittTheElder
Feb 13, 2012

:geno: Yes, it's like a lava lamp.

hot cocoa on the couch posted:

i get that the thread has a justifiable hate for everest climbers, how does the thread feel about alpinists? is climbing the alps okay

I mean that's fine, I'd even wager quite a few of us are mountain hikers and climbers. The part we mock is where lowland white collar types decide to skip directly to Everest, endangering the lives of others (and so many Sherpas in the process), and complaining about striking porters because they don't want to tip them :10bux:

Chrpno
Apr 17, 2006

Aphex- posted:

Pretty sure I've posted this before but Alan Arnette's blog about climbing K2 is excellent and really makes you realise how loving hard it is. The summit push and descent report are really well written and I feel exhausted just reading it.

Oh gently caress this guy. "I'm on the mountain and I'm dying. I'm about to die. Oh look at me, death be upon me in about a minute. Oh guess what I'm not dead! BUY MY BOOK"

At least he could have the decency to die before writing his shill blog.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Chrpno posted:

Oh gently caress this guy. "I'm on the mountain and I'm dying. I'm about to die. Oh look at me, death be upon me in about a minute. Oh guess what I'm not dead! BUY MY BOOK"

At least he could have the decency to die before writing his shill blog.

Thanks for spoiling the whole story :mad:

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



Chrpno posted:

Oh gently caress this guy. "I'm on the mountain and I'm dying. I'm about to die. Oh look at me, death be upon me in about a minute. Oh guess what I'm not dead! BUY MY BOOK"

At least he could have the decency to die before writing his shill blog.

he lost me at the part where he said the sherpas were carrying heavier packs than him

AceClown
Sep 11, 2005

I am at deaths door

I know the only way to survive this is by going back down

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjD3EVC1-zU

BobHoward
Feb 13, 2012

The only thing white people deserve is a bullet to their empty skull

Chrpno posted:

Oh gently caress this guy. "I'm on the mountain and I'm dying. I'm about to die. Oh look at me, death be upon me in about a minute. Oh guess what I'm not dead! BUY MY BOOK"

At least he could have the decency to die before writing his shill blog.

ethanol posted:

he lost me at the part where he said the sherpas were carrying heavier packs than him

Yeah uh you guys were a bit too quick with the knives on this one

Alan Arnette is cool by me, if you click around very much in his "shill blog" you'll find that what he's shilling for is Alzheimer's research (he lost his mother to Alzheimer's). His K2 trip raised $70K. He was 58 when he summitted K2, so yeah, he was going to be relying on Sherpas to carry the heavy loads.

Zero One
Dec 30, 2004

HAIL TO THE VICTORS!

knox_harrington posted:

Lol I think you're underestimating it, please wear a gopro and record your attempt

e: I got the top of it in a photo this morning, it's just peeking out on the skyline above the cabin



Looks pretty tiny to me.

ilmucche
Mar 16, 2016

What did you say the strategy was?
Every now and then I think about the Nepalese guy in 14 peaks climbing one of the mountains in a day with a hangover

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGV8axWrYik

Compare Everest to the K2 video I posted earlier, the difference in apparent difficulty is quite stark. I can see why he does it though, aside from the money he gets as a guide obviously. Standing on top of the world is quite intoxicating, and I'd like to see it once, but I don't have a bunch of money, or the large amount of time time to dedicate to becoming a professional mountaineer in order to work my way to climbing 8000's. I got a tiny, tiny bit of the feeling standing on top of Fuji a couple years ago because of its massive prominence over the Kanto Plain, just being so far above everything below is pretty loving cool. Fuji is a literal day hike though, you don't need any gear except for a sturdy pair of boots and maybe some climbing poles during the climbing season.

BlueBlazer
Apr 1, 2010
Ehhh.. you do enough mountaineering and you realize it's only a matter of time before you get murked by a mountain.

You are essentially rolling a d100 every time you try and summit anything over 10k. Your first couple are thrilling adventures and then it's just box ticking.

You start to think, "Is it fair to my friends and family, that after doing this 10 other times that I just get crushed by a rock because I didn't respect the climbing conditions for the time of year?"

Get your mountains, get done. A career of it always ends in tragedy. I live in the PNW and when you here someone getting destroyed you start to think we'll, that dude summited Rainier 20+ not even as a guide, was it worth it? My answer. No.

Colonel Cancer
Sep 26, 2015

Tune into the fireplace channel, you absolute buffoon
It's not actually tragic to die doing what you love tbh

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


BlueBlazer posted:

Ehhh.. you do enough mountaineering and you realize it's only a matter of time before you get murked by a mountain.

You are essentially rolling a d100 every time you try and summit anything over 10k. Your first couple are thrilling adventures and then it's just box ticking.

You start to think, "Is it fair to my friends and family, that after doing this 10 other times that I just get crushed by a rock because I didn't respect the climbing conditions for the time of year?"

Get your mountains, get done. A career of it always ends in tragedy. I live in the PNW and when you here someone getting destroyed you start to think we'll, that dude summited Rainier 20+ not even as a guide, was it worth it? My answer. No.

Makes me think of Julian Sands. More than a couple times since January I saw snippets from interviews from his friends and family who all said some variation of "he was the most experienced hiker I knew." It just takes one small accident and welp now you're dying of exposure and your family won't find your body for days/weeks/months/ever.

Anachronist
Feb 13, 2009


BlueBlazer posted:

Ehhh.. you do enough mountaineering and you realize it's only a matter of time before you get murked by a mountain.

You are essentially rolling a d100 every time you try and summit anything over 10k. Your first couple are thrilling adventures and then it's just box ticking.

You start to think, "Is it fair to my friends and family, that after doing this 10 other times that I just get crushed by a rock because I didn't respect the climbing conditions for the time of year?"

Get your mountains, get done. A career of it always ends in tragedy. I live in the PNW and when you here someone getting destroyed you start to think we'll, that dude summited Rainier 20+ not even as a guide, was it worth it? My answer. No.

Lol RIP to the 1% of aspirants dying on Bierstadt every year. Do you mean 20k’? Obviously Rainer is a p legit mountain but we’ve got some tall ones here in CO that are just not that hard.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Anachronist posted:

Lol RIP to the 1% of aspirants dying on Bierstadt every year. Do you mean 20k’? Obviously Rainer is a p legit mountain but we’ve got some tall ones here in CO that are just not that hard.

Nah, people die on mountains that are sub 20k all the time, all it takes is a bad attachment point, your crampon coming loose from the ice if you're climbing over icy steep terrain, a falling rock from above, or accidentally falling into a crevasse. YMMV but there's huge variance in difficulty that is not entirely related to height. Rainier is just a tiny bit taller than Fuji, but Fuji is a day hike, and Rainier is something that will absolutely kill you if you gently caress up.

Anachronist
Feb 13, 2009


orange juche posted:

Nah, people die on mountains that are sub 20k all the time, all it takes is a bad attachment point, your crampon coming loose from the ice if you're climbing over icy steep terrain, a falling rock from above, or accidentally falling into a crevasse. YMMV but there's huge variance in difficulty that is not entirely related to height. Rainier is just a tiny bit taller than Fuji, but Fuji is a day hike, and Rainier is something that will absolutely kill you if you gently caress up.

That’s my point though - it has a lot more to do with objective hazards than elevation and 10k is a threshold without a good relationship to altitude as a serious objective hazard. People die in NH mountains all the time too and those top out at like 5k. There’s roads and gift shops at 14000’ here in CO.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Anachronist posted:

That’s my point though - it has a lot more to do with objective hazards than elevation and 10k is a threshold without a good relationship to altitude as a serious objective hazard. People die in NH mountains all the time too and those top out at like 5k. There’s roads and gift shops at 14000’ here in CO.

I think one mountaineering video put it pretty well, a mountain's danger is a combination of Location, Altitude, Weather, and Technical Difficulty. Mount Bierstadt for example is over 14,000 feet tall, but as far as Location, Weather, and Technical Difficulty, all of those are a good bit lower than something like Rainier.

Same as the mountains in NH, They may be only 5000ish feet high, but their Location and Weather is very remote, and very volatile, making them more dangerous than say Bierstadt, as the weather can turn very bad very quickly, and the remoteness of the northern Appalachian Mountains makes it hard to get evacuated when you're in danger, leading to fatalities.

Everest gets 10/10 marks for Altitude and Weather, as far as location goes it's not particularly remote anymore, quite accessible really. You can basically day hike right to basecamp, there's well-defined and well travelled paths to the foot of the mountain with no real danger. Technical difficulty is still up there, but not as unachievable as many shorter peaks, which leads to dumb CEOs getting got like moths in a bug zapper.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Apr 7, 2023

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
I'm sure if you tell a few choice patriots that there's such thing as the Hillary Step that they will have it bombed down to sea level within a week.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Cojawfee posted:

I'm sure if you tell a few choice patriots that there's such thing as the Hillary Step that they will have it bombed down to sea level within a week.

I think the earthquake a couple years back took care of it, it went from a ~50 foot cliff to like... 10 feet, most of it fell down the mountain.

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


New Hampshire kills people because they didn't appreciate just how rapidly weather can become extremely bad. Vermont kills people who don't realize that their 8 mile relax day across the Green Wall is going to stop them dead because six thousand feet of elevation change in one morning destroyed their unstrengthened knee and now they're praying someone will come through and remember to call rescue when they get back to somewhere with cell service.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

BlueBlazer posted:

Ehhh.. you do enough mountaineering and you realize it's only a matter of time before you get murked by a mountain.

You are essentially rolling a d100 every time you try and summit anything over 10k. Your first couple are thrilling adventures and then it's just box ticking.

lol what

There are more than a few mountains where you can park your family sedan at ten thousand feet and stroll up to eleven thousand. You might be a little winded, and don’t be up there if bad weather threatens, but you’re not rolling the dice any more than you were on the car ride.

Here’s a fourteener that makes a nice day hike.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Yeah my geology professor in college took a class of summer semester students, some with zero hiking experience, to the top of Mt. Hoffman in Yosemite. The hike took about four hours or so to get to the top and another two or three to get back down, because we took our time; and it was strenuous but it was a day hike and there were like, elderly people and children and people with dogs at the top. It's a 5.6 mile hike there and back from the parking lot and the summit is at 10,772ft. Critically: the hike is only 1912 ft. of elevation gain. It's not a "climb", you don't need ropes or crampons, there's no snow in the summer, and if you camped over night the night before at 8k feet or so you will have gotten reasonably acclimated to the elevation.

The death zone is above 8000 meters, that's 26,000 feet.

People die in the wilderness from wilderness dangers because they're unprepared or have an accident, and being at high elevation can make a minor accident into a more serious one, but 10k feet is not some kind of significant bar where you're passing from safety into danger.

BlueBlazer
Apr 1, 2010
Excuse me for localizing my anecdote too much. For I've crafted the greatest sin, an imperfect statement of consideration.

A day hike wouldn't necessarily be considered mountaineering.

I think it's implied a certain equipment, implied strenuous performance, not merely statistical prominence are required to fall into that category.

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Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
It’s heartbreaking to see all these kids risk their lives.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx_2YF_Yo2I

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