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Mr. Wiggles posted:How do you put a V8 in a Focus? Discuss: There used to be kits to put a mod motor in a first gen focus. There's still one company making them but for the small block Ford. https://kugelkomponents.com/focus-v-8/ E: they have a mod motor kit too. I wonder if the 5.2 flat plane would fit.
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Apr 8, 2023 06:20
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Ok I was sort of kidding but not anymore unf unf unf I love sleepers.
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Apr 8, 2023 06:54
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Does it stay a FWD? I was always tempted to put an LS motor in my 240sx.
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Apr 8, 2023 07:10
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I've made the mistake of picking on a LS (or at least V8 swapped) 240SX with a super quiet exhaust. He stomped it, it sat there and burned half the tires off, and I guess it had dumps on the exhaust - by the time he caught up (and flew past me at probably triple my own speed a couple of seconds later) it was absolutely screaming, the way a V8 screams when you kick it in the nuts. At idle you didn't hear anything, not even a burble. I've seen 240s that also had a nasty crackle/rumble at idle that gave everything away.
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Apr 8, 2023 11:39
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stupid question on a 2013 Toyota Camry (XV50, 4cyl model) if there are any toyota touchers hanging around: brought car in to the dealership (problem #1, I know, I don't normally do this but I had some errands to run and it happened to be the most convenient way to kill a few birds with less stones) for an oil change/tire rotation, normal poo poo. they came back and told me they're measuring the front brake linings at 5mm and the rear brake linings at 3mm and want me to replace them. I went back through my service records and remembered that I had already replaced them on all four wheels in October 2021. I didn't authorize any of what they wanted to do and am gonna take the report to a local guy I know for a second opinion but it seems odd that the rear brakes would be going faster than the front. I'm not driving this thing like a racecar although driving in the Boston metro area does require more brake usage than other places. averaging about ~9500mi/yr, with 85k on the car since I bought it (though it was a pre-owned and had about 23k when I got it). they didn't say I have any issues with alignment or uneven tire wear. does it make any sense for this car to be wearing the rear brakes uneven like that?
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Apr 8, 2023 17:34
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VelociBacon posted:Does it stay a FWD? I was always tempted to put an LS motor in my 240sx. RWD and bolt-in. barnold posted:stupid question on a 2013 Toyota Camry (XV50, 4cyl model) if there are any toyota touchers hanging around: brought car in to the dealership (problem #1, I know, I don't normally do this but I had some errands to run and it happened to be the most convenient way to kill a few birds with less stones) for an oil change/tire rotation, normal poo poo. they came back and told me they're measuring the front brake linings at 5mm and the rear brake linings at 3mm and want me to replace them. I went back through my service records and remembered that I had already replaced them on all four wheels in October 2021. The rears can wear quicker sometimes but not that much in 20,000 miles. You may be able to look at your brake pads through the wheels, maybe with a small mirror or stick your phone in and take a picture. inside the caliper, the pads are just a ~1cm metal backing plate and then the pad material.
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Apr 8, 2023 17:47
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Second opinion it or put eyes on the brake pads yourself. Some vehicles will do torque vectoring via the abs module for stability control, hill start assist, and such. In the olden days yeah rear pads would wear at a reduced rate compared to the fronts. Now? haha no bets.
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Apr 8, 2023 17:54
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Mr. Wiggles posted:How do you put a V8 in a Focus? Discuss: The same way you put a V8 in a Fiesta 
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Apr 8, 2023 18:35
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As they say, "in the backseat of a Volkswagen" If you're gonna do that I'd just skip the Ford and find an old fiat 5/600
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Apr 8, 2023 19:49
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Terrible Robot posted:100% worth getting the Sync3 upgrade, if nothing else than for the nicer dashboard materials. The newer 10spd autos are poo poo but I've been really happy with the 6spd ('15-'17) auto. The manuals had/have issues with the syncros wearing out prematurely, idk if they've fixed that on the '18+ https://youtu.be/Y25ordkIfgM
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Apr 8, 2023 23:10
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cursedshitbox posted:Some vehicles will do torque vectoring via the abs module for stability control, hill start assist, and such. In the olden days yeah rear pads would wear at a reduced rate compared to the fronts. Now? haha no bets. Yeah, this is very much the case. Combine that with the fact that on rear disc vehicles the rear pads can be absolutely tiny since they don't encounter much actual work, and rear pads will end up wearing surprisingly quickly.
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Apr 9, 2023 01:11
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Stupid question for the stupid questions thread: is there a “what car would you buy in xx$ budget” recommendation thread? I don’t have any money but I’d like to sift through the goon hivemind to see the options IF I HAD ANY
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Apr 9, 2023 06:29
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cosmin posted:Stupid question for the stupid questions thread: is there a “what car would you buy in xx$ budget” recommendation thread? AI consensus is the best Maserati biturbo you can afford. Because that's a terrible idea there's an ask/tell thread that is exactly what you're looking for https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Apr 9, 2023 06:32
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Correct solution is an off lease 7 series bmw  But yeah if your maintenance budget is hamstrung by something like real world economics the Maserati might be more your speed
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Apr 9, 2023 07:25
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AI related rather than car specific, but is there not a post you ride thread anymore? I've a cool car I've been building over the past year and don't have content for a build thread, but I think some folks might enjoy it.
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Apr 9, 2023 13:36
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CaptainTofu posted:AI related rather than car specific, but is there not a post you ride thread anymore? I've a cool car I've been building over the past year and don't have content for a build thread, but I think some folks might enjoy it. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3032817 https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3932338
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Apr 9, 2023 13:43
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Thanks, turns out I am just terrible at looking for things.
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Apr 9, 2023 14:31
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My dad has a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.6l V6 and rear disc brakes. I don't know the mileage, but its probably pushing 300,000 km. It needs front and rear pads and rotors. Anyone know if the parking brake is the type in the caliper, or if its drum in disc? I haven't had a chance to look at it closely. My brother and I were going to get some parts from rock auto and change the pads etc, but want to figure out the parking brake too. If its got a drum in disc type, I might just pick up the parts and do it while we're in there rather than take things apart twice.
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Apr 9, 2023 23:54
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Rock auto lists very narrow parking brake shoes for it. And looking at the shape of the rear rotors listed I would say it's almost certainly drum in disc.
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Apr 10, 2023 05:39
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wesleywillis posted:My dad has a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe with 3.6l V6 and rear disc brakes. I don't know the mileage, but its probably pushing 300,000 km. Powershift posted:Rock auto lists very narrow parking brake shoes for it. And looking at the shape of the rear rotors listed I would say it's almost certainly drum in disc. OP if it's drum-in-disc you almost certainly do not need to replace the shoes, they tend to last quite a long time. Unless he's having issues with it specifically I wouldn't replace them because the brake pads are needing replacement.
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Apr 10, 2023 06:53
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VelociBacon posted:OP if it's drum-in-disc you almost certainly do not need to replace the shoes, they tend to last quite a long time. Unless he's having issues with it specifically I wouldn't replace them because the brake pads are needing replacement. This, they just do the parking brake so basically no wear.
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Apr 10, 2023 12:35
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Ahh, i love being the guy who forgets to check all his parts, so the only stupid question i'm left with is "who forgot to move these parts over and gets to do half the job again?"
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Apr 10, 2023 13:55
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I just saw the recommendation for the Wet Okole seat covers on the last page, so I looked up my 98 4Runner. Normally $369, but they're running a 15% discount for Easter, so I got them for $313 plus $35 shipping.
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Apr 10, 2023 14:57
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THanks goons, re: parking brake. I just figured while I was in there I'd do it. I'll talk to my dad first and see if he's having any issues before I gently caress with it. Though maybe while I'm in there I'll just give it a good cleaning and lube/adjust stuff.
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Apr 10, 2023 17:33
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wesleywillis posted:THanks goons, re: parking brake. I just figured while I was in there I'd do it. IIRC they're self-adjusting, not to say that things can't get rusty and stop working correctly. If there is excess play in the handbrake before it engages I'd say you just have to find out where the adjustment is for that (generally just behind the handbrake itself and accessed from the cabin, but on trucks and stuff I've seen it be under the car). Unless your dad is initiating drifts with his handbrake it should be good to go (if he is, try to encourage a weight transfer or clutch kicking technique)! If you're replacing the rotors and therefore cleaning all the poo poo off the new rotors remember you have to do the inside of the drum part too for him.
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Apr 10, 2023 17:50
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I have read several times over the years that seatbelts are a lifetime warranty thing and manufacturers will still cover them. Stupid question: Is this true? Stupider question: If so, will Volvo fix my 1986 760's seat belts? Stupidest question: If so, what dealer would I go to for my Fiero's seat belts?
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Apr 10, 2023 18:46
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Not true. I think Honda/Acura are the only ones with a lifetime warranty (and I had to fight tooth and nail to get them fixed on my 91 Integra, they kept trying to pull the "only the actual belt is covered, not the buckle or motors" crap until I called Honda of America). It looks like Volvo only had a 5 year warranty on them. I can't find specifics on the Fiero, but I assume it's GM's typical 3/36k. There's companies that repair seat belts though. Most of them are targeted at repairing them after an accident (blown tensioner etc, which neither of your cars will have), but depending on what's wrong, some calling/emailing should find one that'll tackle them. What's wrong with them?
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Apr 10, 2023 20:29
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STR posted:Not true. I think Honda/Acura are the only ones with a lifetime warranty Thanks! That explains it. It kept coming up when researching automatic belt deletes for Hondas. They’re just old and gross I think. I have fixed belts in the past by disassembling/cleaning the mechanics and shampooing the belts but was hoping for something a lot lazier.
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Apr 10, 2023 20:40
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That is not how warranties work. Sorry.
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Apr 10, 2023 21:54
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Edit: Recommend me a car is in a different forum. Contribution: cars are fun - I had a manual ATS-V that I traded in for a minivan. Kids are dumb Sab0921 fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Apr 10, 2023 |
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Apr 10, 2023 23:25
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my alternator broke and my mechanic made a house call to replace it with a new one he got and after an hour of replacing it and some testing it turns out they gave him a bad alternator so now i have to wait and he has to install it tomorrow for free so neither of us are happy. unfortunate but i'd rather wait than have it catch on fire on the highway, so whatever i guess
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Apr 10, 2023 23:41
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Thanks! That explains it. It kept coming up when researching automatic belt deletes for Hondas. You could always support the Ukrainian economy and order something rad from these fine folks: https://seatbelt.com.ua/
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Apr 11, 2023 00:00
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Meowdy, AI! My dad has a 1981 Ford Econoline 100 that won't calm down into a normal idle. It fires up fine, runs mostly unless it's vapor-locked (a frequent occurrence in the summer these days), but runs super rich; we pulled a spark plug on it and it was sooty black but otherwise fine. We checked the linkage on the carburetor and it's fine, and we intend to do the timing on it Wednesday. We also sprayed off a bunch of dust, but could there be buildup messing with it? Also checked the air filter and it's still light-permeable. It's rare that the old man runs out of ideas, especially on a vehicle he's worked on since I was a kid. I don't relish the thought of hauling the carb out of its tight spot or fiddling to put it back, but if we have to we will. I'm just hoping anyone has any ideas of what could be the issue.
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Apr 11, 2023 00:14
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Does it have a vacuum leak? That might cause the high idle, but I guess that wouldn't explain the running rich part. Do the carb butterflies close all the way? What engine, carb, trans combo is it?
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Apr 11, 2023 00:47
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I believe this vintage has an ECM, which can read high O2 in the exhaust and compensate by running rich (and its worst at idle) if there is an exhaust leak at or near the exhaust header
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Apr 11, 2023 01:49
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Leperflesh posted:I believe this vintage has an ECM, which can read high O2 in the exhaust and compensate by running rich (and its worst at idle) if there is an exhaust leak at or near the exhaust header Not until the 1983 model year. And I didn't even know that until I went digging for info on the Autolite 2150 just now (which is what this van likely has if it's a V8 - if it's the I6, it'll have a single barrel carb, I don't know which model the single barrel would be). cat_herder posted:We checked the linkage on the carburetor and it's fine, and we intend to do the timing on it Wednesday. We also sprayed off a bunch of dust, but could there be buildup messing with it? Also checked the air filter and it's still light-permeable. Check for vacuum leaks (an unlit propane torch opened a little bit, waving it around near the base of the carb, will cause it to rev up if the base gasket is leaking). Make sure the choke is opening all the way - it should have an electric choke heater, if it's not hooked up or burned out, it won't open (should have +12V anytime the ignition is on, should be a single wire going to the carb). When you're doing this, try not to run it without the air cleaner; if you do, keep a fire extinguisher handy - if the carb is leaking and it backfires, you're in for a bad day without the air cleaner on there. If it's the 2 barrel carb (on the V8), there's an idle speed and idle enrichment adjustment on the front of the carb. I want to say the idle speed is the screw on the left hand side (when looking at the carb from the front of the van), but I haven't touched that carb since the late 90s. Turning it clockwise (so that it goes into the carb) should drop the idle speed, unless the power valve is blown. Count the turns so you can put it back where it was if it doesn't have an affect - either the PV was blown, or you're hitting the wrong screw. But if the carb hasn't been messed with in awhile, a rebuild won't hurt it. Unless you've moved from sea level to a high elevation without rejetting it, the only other reason it should be running rich is if the power valve has blown (they'll blow if it backfires through the carb - I THINK you can replace them without full disassembly of the carb, but I haven't touched a Ford carb since the late 1990s). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 04:03
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I've never done any exhaust work, but I have a sawzall and a 2000 F150 that needs a muffler. I ordered this because it promised "Welded brackets to reduce install time and meet O.E. fit" https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=974410&cc=1362484&pt=5872&jsn=2 The original muffler hangs like this, but the replacement doesn't have any hangers at all. Should I be complaining, or is this normal?  edit: I called the manufacturer and they put the hangers on the tail pipe section instead of the canister, which I guess I have to order now too. Be nice if that was noted. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Apr 11, 2023 |
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Apr 11, 2023 21:05
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To be honest it's easier and not much more expensive just to go to your local muffler shop and have something properly welded instead of cutting and clamping exhaust poo poo together yourself. Unless you can bolt it together with flanges I'd just have it welded instead of clamping, just my opinion tho.
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Apr 11, 2023 23:07
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Applebees Appetizer posted:To be honest it's easier and not much more expensive just to go to your local muffler shop and have something properly welded instead of cutting and clamping exhaust poo poo together yourself. Yeah I was going to post exactly this but I dunno how helpful that is for the guy now. OP I would go to a muffler shop before spending any more money on this - and you can probably flip that muffler for at least what you paid for it.
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Apr 12, 2023 00:32
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Just take the muffler with you to a muffler shop and have them weld on the hangars and the whole thing together for you.
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Apr 12, 2023 03:24
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