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Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
You can do whatever you want sewing, but yes those conventions are usually followed in basic RTW. Check out some basic dress shirts next time you go to the store and see!

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effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.
Ready to wear does indeed follow those conventions of left and right buttons/etc.

I don't think any home sewist puts in two sets of buttons these days unless they're into strict gender presentation via clothing details (and around those who will notice).

Myself and many other non-professional garment makers subscribe to the "which side looks better" school of shirt button placket construction.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Whenever I shop for a shirt or jacket and it's in androgynous shop or area of the shop I generally check the button layer to confirm if it's cut masculine or feminine. There some serious muscle memory for me since I wear a button up shirt probably 90% of the days, an opposite side shirt would be a little confusion everytime.

Oracle
Oct 9, 2004

Lead out in cuffs posted:

I just wanted to say -- whoever suggested basting with glue stick, it has changed my life, especially for knits.


Also just laughing at both the old Readers Digest sewing book I've been reading, and that U Kentucky placket guide, who are all "boys shirts/jackets go left over right, and girls shirts/jackets go right over left". The Readers Digest book even suggested adding two sets of buttons so a jacket could be worn by girls or boys.

... do people actually still do this? Like, actually actually?

A girl in my kids class was forbidden from taking home a jacket someone gave her because the buttons were on the wrong side and it would be crossdressing. It was a jean jacket. Anti trans people be nuts.

Idlewild_
Sep 12, 2004

On the flip side, as an afab nonbinary person, sewing shirts with the buttons on the right is giving me a nice hit of very silly gender euphoria. Does any of this matter? No, absolutely not. Am I still gleeful to observe the weird rites of binary gender? I certainly am!

My ultimate goal is to look like a loud American tourist in Rome in 1963 - shirts are going well, I just have to step up to making slacks.

tinytort
Jun 10, 2013

Super healthy, super cheap

Lead out in cuffs posted:

I just wanted to say -- whoever suggested basting with glue stick, it has changed my life, especially for knits.


Also just laughing at both the old Readers Digest sewing book I've been reading, and that U Kentucky placket guide, who are all "boys shirts/jackets go left over right, and girls shirts/jackets go right over left". The Readers Digest book even suggested adding two sets of buttons so a jacket could be worn by girls or boys.

... do people actually still do this? Like, actually actually?

It's still done, because Tradition and that's how the patterns will tell you to make a shirt or jacket.

Anne Whateley posted:

You can do whatever you want sewing, but yes those conventions are usually followed in basic RTW. Check out some basic dress shirts next time you go to the store and see!

This, yeah. The convention got started because men who were wearing buttoned dress shirts would normally have a servant who would be helping them get dressed, but women would be just as likely to be dressing themselves. So the buttons were arranged so that it was easiest for whoever was supposed to be doing up the buttons.

At this point, it's so ingrained that no one even notices unless you're making a point about it.

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

Idlewild_ posted:

On the flip side, as an afab nonbinary person, sewing shirts with the buttons on the right is giving me a nice hit of very silly gender euphoria. Does any of this matter? No, absolutely not. Am I still gleeful to observe the weird rites of binary gender? I certainly am!

My ultimate goal is to look like a loud American tourist in Rome in 1963 - shirts are going well, I just have to step up to making slacks.



Excellent style goal! Love it.

MIDWIFE CRISIS
Nov 5, 2008

Ta gueule, laisse-moi finir.

Idlewild_ posted:

On the flip side, as an afab nonbinary person, sewing shirts with the buttons on the right is giving me a nice hit of very silly gender euphoria. Does any of this matter? No, absolutely not. Am I still gleeful to observe the weird rites of binary gender? I certainly am!

My ultimate goal is to look like a loud American tourist in Rome in 1963 - shirts are going well, I just have to step up to making slacks.



This outfit absolutely rules! :iia:

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh

MIDWIFE CRISIS posted:

This outfit absolutely rules! :iia:

The glasses just make it, all it needs is a Nikon with a leopard print strap and they are there.

Idlewild_
Sep 12, 2004

Aww, I'm thrilled that the outfit works!

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

I have a pretty specific question that i'm not sure anyone would be able to help with, this is likely a huge shot in the dark but here it goes; Trying to replace a lightbulb in a Bernina 1001, using a Lamsky BA15D bulb, and kinda guessing this might not be the correct size, due to its unwillingness to cooperate. Thinking maybe this isn't compatible? But am very unsure.

taiyoko
Jan 10, 2008


I said come in! posted:

I have a pretty specific question that i'm not sure anyone would be able to help with, this is likely a huge shot in the dark but here it goes; Trying to replace a lightbulb in a Bernina 1001, using a Lamsky BA15D bulb, and kinda guessing this might not be the correct size, due to its unwillingness to cooperate. Thinking maybe this isn't compatible? But am very unsure.

Just a quick google looks like those are two very different bulbs that aren't compatible at all?

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

taiyoko posted:

Just a quick google looks like those are two very different bulbs that aren't compatible at all?



Sometimes I just need a sanity check. Thank you! This is super helpful. On the left, did you see what bulb type it was? Ideally would like to find an LED version.

I said come in! fucked around with this message at 01:20 on May 2, 2023

taiyoko
Jan 10, 2008


From low-quality scans of the original manual, it also looks like the machine came with a special bulb remover/inserter, but it doesn't make mention of the bulb part number or anything, and a second site has both the bayonet-style fitting and the screw fitting attributed to the 1001, so it could actually be the bayonet base type that you bought. So that style installs as "push up, and turn to the right as far as it will go". Could be a difference based on US vs UK version.

Pasketti
Nov 8, 2017

lick lick lick
I found some amazing anti-Uv stretchy fabric and made a rad t-shrit dress out of it!

I didn't pre-wash the fabric because when i got it, it was the last yard left on the roll (they gave it to me for 2 bux!!!) and I was worried if it shrank at all I wouldn't be able to trace my pattern. After wearing it a bunch of times and washing it, the dress got a lot shorter...still fits and works because I wanted it for summer activewear anyway. Just can't wear it teaching anymore : (

I just found more of this anti-UV fabric but this time in a totally-not-a-ripoff copy of Zenitsu's kimono pattern from Demon Slayer. I was able to get 2 yards this time, so I super double extra pre-washed it and will make another!
Highly recommend the stuff, from the Pop! Kids collection at JoAnnes. The fabric stays cold even in the heat which is a ncie bonus, it feels like wearing a sheet of water.

Killingyouguy!
Sep 8, 2014

In my quest to slowly sew many rectangles I've decided for our new bed I will sew a custom duvet cover to better match our desired colour scheme

But that means going to a fabric store and I am very intimidate

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

Pasketti posted:

I found some amazing anti-Uv stretchy fabric and made a rad t-shrit dress out of it!

I didn't pre-wash the fabric because when i got it, it was the last yard left on the roll (they gave it to me for 2 bux!!!) and I was worried if it shrank at all I wouldn't be able to trace my pattern. After wearing it a bunch of times and washing it, the dress got a lot shorter...still fits and works because I wanted it for summer activewear anyway. Just can't wear it teaching anymore : (

I just found more of this anti-UV fabric but this time in a totally-not-a-ripoff copy of Zenitsu's kimono pattern from Demon Slayer. I was able to get 2 yards this time, so I super double extra pre-washed it and will make another!
Highly recommend the stuff, from the Pop! Kids collection at JoAnnes. The fabric stays cold even in the heat which is a ncie bonus, it feels like wearing a sheet of water.

Oooh, nice to know the Pop! Kids is decent stuff! That looks great on you.


Killingyouguy! posted:

In my quest to slowly sew many rectangles I've decided for our new bed I will sew a custom duvet cover to better match our desired colour scheme

But that means going to a fabric store and I am very intimidate

Maybe fabric bundles are you for you? They coordinate a bunch of fabric together by color so it'll all match. I don't know how much fabric you need or if you have a size you want for your rectangles, but Fat Quarter Shop has various sizes and many good quality fabrics all packaged up together to help end decision paralysis. Here's their category page.

Killingyouguy!
Sep 8, 2014

I was thinking just one big rectangle? With some ties inside for attaching the duvet

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

Killingyouguy! posted:

I was thinking just one big rectangle? With some ties inside for attaching the duvet

Oh, OK, then. Yes, you can probably go to any fabric store and find something you like. If you stick to quilting cottons, you'll probably find ones that have coordinating prints and solids that can easily be paired together.




Thread, I think I am going to put down the sewing today. I somehow decided the interfacing was on the right side of the collar and had to re-do the whole thing.

I did briefly think about leaving it as a fashion statement, like the exposed zipper trend, but decided I wasn't that ahead of trends.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Killingyouguy! posted:

I was thinking just one big rectangle? With some ties inside for attaching the duvet

Oh lol -- I think Effika (and I) read your "quest to slowly sew many rectangles" as a desire to get into quilting, in which case precuts would be your friend. But yeah, you could just go into your local fabric store, or shop online.

For a duvet cover, if you want it to be seamless, you'll likely want "wide yardage". The conventional width of fabric is 60", which is wide enough for a single bed duvet, but not for anything larger. Wider yardage fabric will allow you to sew anything up to king sized. But, there are generally a lot fewer options available in wide, so you may just want to get 60" and have a seam down the middle.

First plan out how much yardage you'll need, including whether you want to do something fun like use a different fabric on each side so it's reversible.


Going from that shop Effika linked, here are some thoughts:

https://www.fatquartershop.com/batik-fabric?product_type_custom=26 for wide yardage, or this one for regular width:

https://www.fatquartershop.com/batik-fabric?product_type_custom=8


Batiks are awesome and come in every colour of the rainbow.


But yeah, if you choose to go to the fabric store (not a bad idea as you can sometimes find bargain bin fabrics if cost is an issue), it's a pretty chill experience. Just go with your yardage needs planned out, and look for quilting cotton by the yard. There will likely be signage and also a vast selection.

Killingyouguy!
Sep 8, 2014

Ohhh sorry yeah I was referring to how my previous project was hemming my shower curtain which is also a large rectangle 😅 thank you for the advice!! I hadn't realized standard fabric width wouldn't be enough

Killingyouguy!
Sep 8, 2014

Oh also - if I wanted to make matching curtains is quilting cotton suitable for that too? Or do I need a different fabric

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

Killingyouguy! posted:

Oh also - if I wanted to make matching curtains is quilting cotton suitable for that too? Or do I need a different fabric

Absolutely fine. You may find it not opaque enough, but adding a light-blocking liner (whether a total darkness one or just another layer of the same fabric) won't be too difficult. Making the window curtain won't be much different than the shower curtain!

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Killingyouguy! posted:

Ohhh sorry yeah I was referring to how my previous project was hemming my shower curtain which is also a large rectangle 😅 thank you for the advice!! I hadn't realized standard fabric width wouldn't be enough

Oh no worries. Bedding and curtains are great (and satisfying) beginner projects. Do check some tutorials and things, and have fun!

If you feel like doing more rectangles, pillowcases are about the same level of difficulty as duvet covers (ie pretty easy), in case you want those matching too.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
I just bought six yards of this fabric:

https://www.rosebrand.com/product4004/118-White-Blackout-Sateen-IFR.aspx?tid=2&info=White%2bblackout%2b118

I intend to use this material as the basis for an outdoor projection screen that is mounted on two extruded aluminum posts.

To accomplish this I plan to sew each end into a 2" loop so I can pipe the aluminum posts into them.

My questions:

1) I have a Brother Innov-is NX-250, if I needed to get a heavier needle for this material what should I get?

2) What kind of thread should I use? Anything special?

3) Should i hem the long sides of the material that aren't being hemmed into post loops? I am still awaiting the material delivery but I'm not sure if I'll need to hem it to avoid fraying over time.

I have used a sewing machine like twice in my life so bear with me.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

I just bought six yards of this fabric:

https://www.rosebrand.com/product4004/118-White-Blackout-Sateen-IFR.aspx?tid=2&info=White%2bblackout%2b118

I intend to use this material as the basis for an outdoor projection screen that is mounted on two extruded aluminum posts.

To accomplish this I plan to sew each end into a 2" loop so I can pipe the aluminum posts into them.

My questions:

1) I have a Brother Innov-is NX-250, if I needed to get a heavier needle for this material what should I get?

2) What kind of thread should I use? Anything special?

3) Should i hem the long sides of the material that aren't being hemmed into post loops? I am still awaiting the material delivery but I'm not sure if I'll need to hem it to avoid fraying over time.

I have used a sewing machine like twice in my life so bear with me.

Yeah I'd hem it on all sides, even if it doesn't seem too prone to fraying.

Unless this is super heavy weight, like canvas weight, regular polyester all purpose thread should be fine, and your machine should handle.

How are you getting it taught? That fabric is woven, ie has no stretch, so you'll likely need cord or something you can pull or stretch or it will be floppy. Just making tubes and sliding them over the posts very likely won't be enough.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
Yeah I'm not 100% on the design so far.

Right now my plan is to use guy wires staked to the ground to pull the posts outward and provide tautness.

Fortunately using 4040 aluminum extruded posts means it's a simple operation to mount a few eyebolts to the top of the posts so I can string paracord off of them to tie to some tent stakes.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




One approach is to add loops or grommets to the four corners of your screen, then use shock cord to attach it to the poles. That makes it easier to tension, and you can add quick release connectors (clips/carabiners) for faster setup.

Still need to figure out your pole rigging though

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Take a look at portable volleyball nets perhaps. They use three guy wires. Of course, the wind load on a net is much different than a screen.

I think I'd design it with grommets at the corners as suggested and hem in steel rods on the top and bottom so it will hang straight without sags and the sort of crease and waviness that comes from that. You could then hang it from the center on a pole and guy down the corners as needed.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
Yeah I was looking into getting a grommet tool as well.

Now we are getting out of the sewing part of the project but I guess it's still fabric related so I'll continue.

If I did grommets, I think I might do them down the sides and then use hardware along the channel in the post to connect each grommet.

I really just need to see how it looks and behaves before I do too much. I think I'll try the post sleeve idea first and if it's a disaster I'll undo it and try grommets.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




StormDrain posted:

Take a look at portable volleyball nets perhaps. They use three guy wires. Of course, the wind load on a net is much different than a screen.

I think I'd design it with grommets at the corners as suggested and hem in steel rods on the top and bottom so it will hang straight without sags and the sort of crease and waviness that comes from that. You could then hang it from the center on a pole and guy down the corners as needed.

Yeah I'd also suggest the rod idea -- that's basically how roll-down screens work. You could also get a taught line across the top and just have a rod on the bottom.

DR FRASIER KRANG, good luck, and let us know how it goes!

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
I already iterated the design to be an entire encapsulated 16:9 rectangle and I'm taking the shock cord suggestion and putting it into place. I'll have 5 eye bolts on each vertical post and 13 on each horizontal post and then I'll just lace shock cord on all four sides and stretch it like an animal skin.

I will post a picture when I have it all complete. It's gonna be loving gigantic (the screen itself will literally be 16' x 9').

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
How do I account for the stretchiness of the material I'm using?

I have an opening into which the fabric will be stretched on all sides but I need to size my rectangle of fabric to allow for the shock cord rigging and the eye bolts plus whatever outward stretch the material will produce.

I don't want to stretch it so hard that I'm tearing out the grommets but I also don't want sagging or flapping in the wind if I can help it.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




DR FRASIER KRANG posted:

How do I account for the stretchiness of the material I'm using?

I have an opening into which the fabric will be stretched on all sides but I need to size my rectangle of fabric to allow for the shock cord rigging and the eye bolts plus whatever outward stretch the material will produce.

I don't want to stretch it so hard that I'm tearing out the grommets but I also don't want sagging or flapping in the wind if I can help it.

Your fabric is a synthetic woven, meaning it almost certainly has little to no stretch in it. But you'll need to judge that when you get it, or ask your supplier.

You should probably allow for a decent sized hem to hold your grommets. At least an inch I would think, probably more. Pick a hem size, then cut a rectangle that is the size you want plus 4 x hem size. (That's 2 x hem width on each edge, so you can fold it twice while hemming.)

The shock cord should give you a lot of flexibility for adjustment. Also, for the rigging stuff, maybe look at some YouTube videos about rigging or something.

Also also, bear in mind that this thing will be effectively a huge sail, so plan appropriately.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?

Lead out in cuffs posted:

Your fabric is a synthetic woven, meaning it almost certainly has little to no stretch in it. But you'll need to judge that when you get it, or ask your supplier.

You should probably allow for a decent sized hem to hold your grommets. At least an inch I would think, probably more. Pick a hem size, then cut a rectangle that is the size you want plus 4 x hem size. (That's 2 x hem width on each edge, so you can fold it twice while hemming.)

The shock cord should give you a lot of flexibility for adjustment. Also, for the rigging stuff, maybe look at some YouTube videos about rigging or something.

Also also, bear in mind that this thing will be effectively a huge sail, so plan appropriately.

Thanks for the notes on hem lengths (I have a lengthy call with my mother planned for this weekend to talk this through too).

Regarding making a giant sail: yes absolutely. One thing I noticed when doing a test rigging with a bed sheet is that the shock cord slides VERY easily on metal grommets and eye bolts so I think in an emergency I'll just cut the rigging and remove the screen material ASAP. I also just don't plan to use it if it's stormy or windy outside.

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)
Hello sewing thread!

I have a 36”x36” piece of sentimental carpet that I would like to turn into a messenger style carpet bag. I just wanted to check in here to see what I should be aware of when working with a material like carpet and make sure this isn’t a fool’s quest. I realize I will probably have to hand sew it since I likely will not be able to get access to a sewing machine that could handle carpet.

I was thinking of using this pattern, since it doesn’t seem too complicated and with just a couple minor tweaks I think I can maximize how much of the carpet I have I can use with this. I am open to any suggestions on other patters I should look at, though:

https://www.applegreencottage.com/messenger-bag-pattern/

Anything I need to know or should be on the lookout for? Needles I should be using when working with carpet? What kind of fabric would be good to use for the gusset?

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

The most heavy duty thing I’ve sewn is thin leather so I’m just making some guesses here but:

1. For hand-sewing there are carpet and upholstery needles you can buy. Some of them are curved, which could be useful?

2. I imagine you’d need upholstery thread, or something similarly heavy-duty.

3. Are you lining it?

4. Something like cotton canvas, duck or cork fabric should work well for the gusset.

nesbit37
Dec 12, 2003
Emperor of Rome
(500 BC - 500 AD)
Thanks for the fabric and needle suggestions. I’ll definitely be lining it. I don’t think the carpet backing on its own would look very good and it probably wouldn’t wear very well either. I also probably need to put some kind of edging on the carpet so it doesn’t fray, but I am not 100% sure about that.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Yeah I've never done carpet, but I imagine it'll be very different from sewing basically anything else. For one, you definitely won't be able to turn the seams in. There seem to be YouTube tutorials for joining pieces of carpet, for the purpose of having them lie flat next to each other, but you could probably use the same technique to get a right-angled seam for a bag. But, if you're working from a pattern made for regular fabric, you'd want to remove the seam allowance, since you'll just have the pieces butting right into each other.

I would possibly think about using some lightweight angle bar to finish the outside of the seams. You could even do something like putting in some strips inside and bolting the carpet together using the angle bar instead of sewing it.


For finishing the edges, here's an article:

https://www.thespruce.com/carpet-finishing-options-2908736

It sounds like something you'll want to practice first on some scrap pieces. In a commercial setting, there are specialized machines for it.


Note: all of this assumes you're talking about modern carpet with the heavy, almost-rigid backing. The stuff they made/make Victorian carpet bags out of is definitely more flexible. If you have that, then look around for carpet bag tutorials and follow some of the tips there.

eg: https://www.betterdressesvintage.com/blogs/from-my-closet/making-a-victorian-carpet-a-bag

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BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

You could probably turn a seam with modern carpet if you're able to remove the fibers that would be on the seam allowance and work with the backer grid only. I'd expect you'd need a bone folder or similar tool, but that's needed for anything heavier than very soft and thin leather anyway.

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