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I have a stupid question. Because I'm stupid, when my wife bought her current car (2018 Buick Enclave), I neglected to think about the wheel lock key. This was back early last year. Now, I have a tire with a screw in it that needs to be patched and the tire place won't patch it without the key, but I quickly discovered that the dealer hadn't provided us the wheel lock key, and it's near impossible to get a replacement. We bought said Buick at a Ford dealership. Their service department said that since it's not a Ford, they can't do anything even though she bought a service contract from the dealer. So I called the nearest GM dealer and they want me to purchase an entirely new set of lugs instead of matching the key. But of course he doesn't have them in stock, so it'll be a few days. Then, when those come in, I'll have to pay about $80 for them, then get their service dept to somehow fit me in in a reasonable amount of time. Just to get a loving tire patched. That's all I want, just to get it patched (and her tires are mismatched so probably will have them all replaced with a single homogenous set), but I can't even steal my wheels from my own car to put back on my own car, and they make it really hard to just get a replacement key without also passing a loving calculus test and sacrificing a newborn. The locks are working beautifully, I'm confident enough to say, just protecting the wheels from the wrong people. Is this a situation where I escalate with the original dealership where it was bought, or do I see if the tire store will just force them off? I'm not gonna make my wife drive a car to work and back every day where the tire could just blow out or go flat and there'd be no way to take it off or put on a spare, so she's driving my truck while this gets sorted out. I had no idea it was going to be such a pain in the rear end. Call me stupid or whatever, it's 100% true,
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Apr 12, 2023 18:39
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If you're willing to get rid of the locking lug nuts, your tire shop should be able to remove them with a stripped nut extractor and replace them with regular lug nuts. If they balk at that, call a few more tire places.
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Apr 12, 2023 18:46
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If you're not in an area where wheel theft is prevalent I would just force the nuts off and replace with non locking nuts. Should be available from any autoparts store. Buick wheels aren't exactly a highly sought after item. There's multiple ways of getting the security lugs off without the key. The most common style just requires hammering on a 12pt socket and undoing the nuts. Extractor sockets meant for damaged and rusted nuts can work as well. Should be some tutorials on YouTube, or the tire ship should be able to force them off.
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Apr 12, 2023 18:49
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life is killing me posted:I have a stupid question. Because I'm stupid, when my wife bought her current car (2018 Buick Enclave), I neglected to think about the wheel lock key. This was back early last year. Now, I have a tire with a screw in it that needs to be patched and the tire place won't patch it without the key, but I quickly discovered that the dealer hadn't provided us the wheel lock key, and it's near impossible to get a replacement. What I’d want to know more about is the terms of your service contract. “Don’t have the parts” doesn’t sound like a valid denial, but I’m not sure what all is included. If you still have the paperwork, review it. There’s a reason these contracts aren’t recommended generally, but you’ve got it, so I think you should make some use of it (if possible and applicable). I’d definitely try to talk to the service manager about it and see if you can get to some agreement. Try to stay calm. I know it’s frustrating, but it usually goes better if you can maintain some level of decency in these situations. If they really don’t cooperate, I’d suggest talking to Discount Tire or similar. They might be able to get the locking lug nuts free and put some replacements of their own on, and likely offer better deals on replacement tires if needed too. They’ve definitely seen situations like these before and service a wide array of vehicles. Generally pretty decent people to work with too. If the GM dealer is really your only option, I suggest you go through with it. Maybe you have some avenue for recuperating your expenses still, maybe not. I hope something works out. You are approaching this the right way. e;fb
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Apr 12, 2023 18:57
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As long as you have the VIN and the title you should be able to get a replacement key from the dealership. It's a little annoying but you could do that. It will probably take them a couple days to get the key in.
KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 19:09
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Safety Dance posted:If you're willing to get rid of the locking lug nuts, your tire shop should be able to remove them with a stripped nut extractor and replace them with regular lug nuts. If they balk at that, call a few more tire places. Bajaha posted:If you're not in an area where wheel theft is prevalent I would just force the nuts off and replace with non locking nuts. Should be available from any autoparts store. Buick wheels aren't exactly a highly sought after item. nitsuga posted:What I’d want to know more about is the terms of your service contract. “Don’t have the parts” doesn’t sound like a valid denial, but I’m not sure what all is included. If you still have the paperwork, review it. There’s a reason these contracts aren’t recommended generally, but you’ve got it, so I think you should make some use of it (if possible and applicable). I’d definitely try to talk to the service manager about it and see if you can get to some agreement. Try to stay calm. I know it’s frustrating, but it usually goes better if you can maintain some level of decency in these situations. I called Discount Tire to see if they could do it, they weren't sure but I'm taking it up there tomorrow to find out and then will have them replaced with regular lugs. The whole reason this came up was because I made an appointment there to have the tire patched and they said they couldn't do it without the wheel lock key, but they didn't say anything about being able to get the wheel locks off another way. The GM dealership has a master key, and he just called me to say he actually does have the new set of lugs (with locks) in stock, but wanted me to come by and make sure they fit the vehicle. That costs about $65 though, and I'm considering just getting a normal set like y'all are saying. As to the dealership, it makes sense why they'd be telling me they can't do anything, because Buick, Ford dealership, the logic that follows. But I do feel like they hosed us, whether intentional or not. We have the paperwork for the service contract, I mainly want to see what it says and exhaust any other possible options before escalating to the SM or GM at the dealer. It's actually better that I deal with them even though I'm pretty hot right now; I told my wife the situation and she texted back, "Oh HELL no, I'll burn them to the ground." KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:As long as you have the VIN and the title you should be able to get a replacement key from the dealership. It's a little annoying but you could do that. It will probably take them a couple days to get the key in. The actual GM dealer I called won't even get a new key, they just want us to buy a new set of lugs whether it's with the locks or just normal lugs. Don't have the title because we're paying a note, but I can at least show proof of registration and see if that would suffice.
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Apr 12, 2023 20:06
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Dude, I assure you that this is something that you can do yourself - even if you have to buy a socket and a hammer. 15 minutes, tops.
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Apr 12, 2023 20:16
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Yeah that sounds like an awful lot of trouble to go through just for some lug nuts. Search youtube how to remove them it's not hard, then replace them with regular lug nuts, no one is going to steal any buick wheels unless you live in the middle of methtown or something
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Apr 12, 2023 20:47
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About a year ago, I had a shop replace the brakes (pads, rotors) on my F150 (2014). Monday, my wife came home and said there was a scraping/grinding noise coming from the front right wheel. I jacked it up, spun the front left wheel freely, front right was binding. Took the wheel off and saw that the outer pad was pretty much toast (completely gone where it touches the outside edge of the rotor, and about 3mm on the inside). Inner pad looked almost brand new, roughly 10mm thick. The outermost ~8mm or so of the rotor is pretty gouged up. I did some quick research to see if there are common issues causing this, and found some indication that this can happen if the outer and inner brake pads, which are different, are installed in the wrong place. Specifically, if the inner brake pad, which has ears on it, is installed on the outside, it can wear prematurely. I took a look, the inner pad on the right had ears, so installed in the right place. I couldn't see the outer pads clearly without removing them, which I didn't have time to do. I took the left wheel off, and saw that the inner pad on that side didn't have ears, and then prodded a bit with a punch where I think the wrong pad was installed on the right side and 90% sure I could feel the ear there. So I'm pretty sure they installed the pads wrong (both outer pads on the left side, both inner pads on the right side), and it seems likely that that has caused premature severe wear of that pad, and the rotor damage. ~8300 miles on the truck since the brake job was done. My questions: - I'm in for a full front pad + rotor replacement, right? - Is it reasonable to ask the shop to do something to make this right? I'm inclined to trust them less, now, of course, but at the same time it's not like a brake replacement job is that difficult or that likely to gently caress up a second time.
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Apr 12, 2023 20:54
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life is killing me posted:I called Discount Tire to see if they could do it, they weren't sure but I'm taking it up there tomorrow to find out and then will have them replaced with regular lugs. The whole reason this came up was because I made an appointment there to have the tire patched and they said they couldn't do it without the wheel lock key, but they didn't say anything about being able to get the wheel locks off another way. The GM dealership has a master key, and he just called me to say he actually does have the new set of lugs (with locks) in stock, but wanted me to come by and make sure they fit the vehicle. That costs about $65 though, and I'm considering just getting a normal set like y'all are saying. $65 is probably close to what Discount would charge for a whole new set. Less violence needed there too if they can just pop a key in. Food for thought. Steve French posted:About a year ago, I had a shop replace the brakes (pads, rotors) on my F150 (2014). Monday, my wife came home and said there was a scraping/grinding noise coming from the front right wheel. I jacked it up, spun the front left wheel freely, front right was binding. Took the wheel off and saw that the outer pad was pretty much toast (completely gone where it touches the outside edge of the rotor, and about 3mm on the inside). Inner pad looked almost brand new, roughly 10mm thick. The outermost ~8mm or so of the rotor is pretty gouged up. It’s probably worth discussing with the shop. You definitely should replace it all one way or another. I wouldn’t count on them footing the bill, but it’s worth a conversation.
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Apr 12, 2023 21:38
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Steve French posted:So I'm pretty sure they installed the pads wrong (both outer pads on the left side, both inner pads on the right side), and it seems likely that that has caused premature severe wear of that pad, and the rotor damage. ~8300 miles on the truck since the brake job was done. 1. You are. 2. Your issue is probably a seized caliper or seized slide pins, not their work.
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Apr 12, 2023 22:32
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STR posted:1. You are. I've actually become more convinced that incorrect pad installation did cause this. There are _tons_ of reports, easy to find with a web search for f150 uneven brake pad wear, that installing the pads wrong causes this. Here's a video that clearly shows the difference in pads and how installing the inner pad on the outside causes issues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXGcgUezqlY&t=98s I've confirmed for sure that they are installed wrong. Right side:  Left side:  Note the right side has only two nipples on it, and the left has four. The ears on the inner pad cause clearance problems on the caliper, apparently, causing it to seat incorrectly (and, in some cases, not mine apparently presumably due to my after market wheels having more clearance, rub on the wheel), which explains why the worn pad is itself not evenly worn. See the difference here in the positioning of the pad vs the caliper   edit: just gave them a call, the woman I talked to knew that the inner and outer pads on these trucks are different and was surprised that they would have made that mistake. She did not question that being a cause of the premature and uneven wear. I'm going to bring it in to them tomorrow and see what they say. Steve French fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 23:00
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Steve French posted:I've actually become more convinced that incorrect pad installation did cause this. There are _tons_ of reports, easy to find with a web search for f150 uneven brake pad wear, that installing the pads wrong causes this. Here's a video that clearly shows the difference in pads and how installing the inner pad on the outside causes issues: Shops and specifically their techs will make mistakes. If they make it right no charge then they're a good shop. If they don't or won't you're probably an honest Google review with pics away from them calling you right back.
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Apr 12, 2023 23:15
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honda whisperer posted:Shops and specifically their techs will make mistakes. If they make it right no charge then they're a good shop. If they don't or won't you're probably an honest Google review with pics away from them calling you right back. Yep, that's in line with how I feel about it. I'm not upset at them for the mistake; how they respond to it will determine how I deal with them (if at all) in the future.
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Apr 12, 2023 23:26
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I'm cleaning up a spare set of wheels that came with a recent car purchase. PO did not fix torn CV boots and the inside of the wheels are covered in grease that has baked on over time, some of it in big booger-like chunks. I've been using degreaser to scrub it off but have only been 50% successful. Do I need to worry about this for wheel balance?
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Apr 13, 2023 00:13
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Wonderllama posted:Dude, I assure you that this is something that you can do yourself - even if you have to buy a socket and a hammer. 15 minutes, tops. Applebees Appetizer posted:Yeah that sounds like an awful lot of trouble to go through just for some lug nuts. Normally I would, but taking them off myself when I'll still need to buy a new set of normal lug nuts, and still need to take it to the tire shop anyway, seems like more effort than is needed when in this case it'd be easier to just go straight to the shop or the dealership and have them do it. Probably Discount Tire in this scenario since if they can take them off, they can replace the lugs and patch the tire all in one go without multiple trips. Or, if the tires need to be replaced, which, lol probably because they're mismatched. Then again since they are worn evenly and all still have tread, and we've never had real problems, who knows. Might be able to stave that off for when I haven't just been laid off from my job.
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Apr 13, 2023 15:07
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Just don't take it to the drat dealer whatever you do Discount tire is your best option then
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Apr 13, 2023 22:48
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:As long as you have the VIN and the title you should be able to get a replacement key from the dealership. It's a little annoying but you could do that. It will probably take them a couple days to get the key in. This relies on a bunch of assumptions and I'm betting none of these are true: *That the wheel locks are actually a factory GM part and not something the original dealer installed using aftermarket parts at a massive markup *That said factory wheel locks are actually keyed unique enough to matter, and *That the factory actually ties the key for said locks to the VIN of the car Discount deals with this on a very regular basis, pay them what they ask and be done with it.
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Apr 14, 2023 04:26
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I actually ended up going to the GM dealership, they had me in and out in about an hour, only $75 lighter. Discount Tire, or at least my local one, has stopped forcing off wheel locks because they said when they hammer the socket on, it has been known to hammer loose the lugs themselves and cause a bunch of damage. The set the dealership put on came with a key (even though I asked them to do regular lug nuts with no locks), and then I took it back to DT to have the tire patched. Having a couple recalls looked at in a couple weeks too. All in all, it did take all day (and all week to get sorted out what I had to do to remedy this situation) but at least it’s done. In the meantime I purchased a usb module that enables CarPlay on my ‘16 F150, so added bonus I guess.
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Apr 14, 2023 04:49
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life is killing me posted:they said when they hammer the socket on, it has been known to hammer loose the lugs themselves and cause a bunch of damage. If the nut is tight on the stud, then I question this but whatever. If thats what they say then thats what they say. Anyway, situation resolved.
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Apr 14, 2023 17:30
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i’m looking to buy a cheap set of steel wheels to put my winter tires on. where’s a good place to buy them? is there a brand or brands i should look for?
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Apr 15, 2023 05:03
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Good news, all of you were right! We checked out the vacuum manifold and the rubber caps were brittle and cracking. Replaced the caps, adjusted the timing, and it sounds loads better and seems to be fixed. Thank you!!
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Apr 15, 2023 06:12
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PIZZA.BAT posted:i’m looking to buy a cheap set of steel wheels to put my winter tires on. where’s a good place to buy them? is there a brand or brands i should look for? If your car originally had steel wheels as an option (or you can find another car with the same bolt pattern, offset, etc. that did), a junkyard is probably your best bet. Before my next door neighbor retired from his junkyard business, I used to get them dirt cheap for all my beaters. Even regular price, you can often find them for about $25 each depending on the car. Summit has some cheap steelies starting around $35 each depending on the specifics. I can't speak to specific brands, but it's hard to screw up a cheap steel wheel.
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Apr 15, 2023 14:46
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PIZZA.BAT posted:i’m looking to buy a cheap set of steel wheels to put my winter tires on. where’s a good place to buy them? is there a brand or brands i should look for? You can get new ones from tire rack. Or keep an eye on FB marketplace for a used set or hit the local junkyard
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Apr 15, 2023 15:13
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I wanna be able to open my window when the weather is nice without worrying about bugs flying in to my car, mostly bees/wasps but I guess if it stops mosquitoes and such that would be an added bonus, seems like car window screens exist but they're all third party, anyone got any specific recommendations? It's for a 2012 Honda Fit in case it matters. Ideally I'd want something that I can just keep permanently there somehow, is there something that can do that while still keeping everything sealed when the windows are closed?
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Apr 15, 2023 15:20
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Brut posted:I wanna be able to open my window when the weather is nice without worrying about bugs flying in to my car, mostly bees/wasps but I guess if it stops mosquitoes and such that would be an added bonus, seems like car window screens exist but they're all third party, anyone got any specific recommendations? It's for a 2012 Honda Fit in case it matters. Ideally I'd want something that I can just keep permanently there somehow, is there something that can do that while still keeping everything sealed when the windows are closed? https://www.snapshades.us/car-sun-shades/honda-fit-2nd-generation-car-window-shades-ge-2007-2014/ Rear windows only, obviously. I've got them in my Subaru to keep the sun off my son. They're mesh like a window screen and they pop into place. You can roll the window down with them in place, but you're not supposed to dive around with the window more than a little open. They gave me a little trouble when I was driving into Canada because the border guards couldn't see in the back, but they were able to use a flashlight.
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Apr 15, 2023 16:31
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Steve French posted:Yep, that's in line with how I feel about it. I'm not upset at them for the mistake; how they respond to it will determine how I deal with them (if at all) in the future. Replaced front rotors and pads at no charge.
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Apr 15, 2023 16:53
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Steve French posted:Replaced front rotors and pads at no charge. Annoying way to find out, but you just learned that you have one good honest shop to go to. Most people never know.
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Apr 15, 2023 17:32
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What is the dial here in between the two carbs? Is that some kind of permanently mounted vacuum gauge? I don't see it moving though https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5jdfkK_D1Q
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Apr 15, 2023 17:48
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Brut posted:I wanna be able to open my window when the weather is nice without worrying about bugs flying in to my car, mostly bees/wasps but I guess if it stops mosquitoes and such that would be an added bonus, seems like car window screens exist but they're all third party, anyone got any specific recommendations? It's for a 2012 Honda Fit in case it matters. Ideally I'd want something that I can just keep permanently there somehow, is there something that can do that while still keeping everything sealed when the windows are closed? Do you mean while driving or just sitting in your car static hanging around? For when you're moving wind deflectors would help, they help keep rain out so i imagine it would help with bugs too.
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Apr 15, 2023 18:17
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Hadlock posted:What is the dial here in between the two carbs? Is that some kind of permanently mounted vacuum gauge? I don't see it moving though Probably a fuel pressure gauge. See this a lot on fuel injected "tuner" cars too.
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Apr 15, 2023 18:37
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Hadlock posted:What is the dial here in between the two carbs? Is that some kind of permanently mounted vacuum gauge? I don't see it moving though Fuel pressure I'd say.
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Apr 15, 2023 18:37
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Fuel pressure. It's an extremely useful gauge in old poo poo like this. Easy to see if a float is sticking or the filter is restricted by what the gauge is doing. E: I run one on my old diesel farm truck for similar reasons. 
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Apr 15, 2023 19:37
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Do you mean while driving or just sitting in your car static hanging around? Kinda both I guess? I was stationary waiting for a red light to turn green early this morning with just one window down (front driver's side), didn't see anything flying around until suddenly something huge was right next to my head, don't wanna have that experience again. Probably much less likely to happen if I'm travelling at speed but you never know.
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Apr 15, 2023 23:28
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The passenger's side headlight quit working on my 06 Cayenne Turbo yesterday. I think they're aftermarket headlights sold by a company called Spyder. They have SONAR SK5471 stamped into them. Before I shotgunned a $100+ headlight bulb at it, I thought I'd try swapping the bulbs left to right to see if the problem followed the bulb. Both headlights work now. What the gently caress?
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Apr 15, 2023 23:34
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Safety Dance posted:The passenger's side headlight quit working on my 06 Cayenne Turbo yesterday. I think they're aftermarket headlights sold by a company called Spyder. They have SONAR SK5471 stamped into them. Before I shotgunned a $100+ headlight bulb at it, I thought I'd try swapping the bulbs left to right to see if the problem followed the bulb. The prime culprit in 955/957 headlight fuckery is the connector/the mechanism they slid in on staying in place. Clean the hell out of all the pins in the sockets as well as the lights. Make sure they are making good contacts and that when you put the lights back in they are ratcheted back into place with the stupid tool thing. I have occasional issues with mine working their way loose enough to lose a turn signal or low beam when I'm off road for long enough. It's worse when it cold out. Literally smacking the light housing back in and then turning it off and back on again solves the problem temporarily.
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Apr 15, 2023 23:49
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Motronic posted:The prime culprit in 955/957 headlight fuckery is the connector/the mechanism they slid in on staying in place. Clean the hell out of all the pins in the sockets as well as the lights. Make sure they are making good contacts and that when you put the lights back in they are ratcheted back into place with the stupid tool thing. I'll hit it with some contact cleaner, thanks!
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Apr 16, 2023 02:11
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cat_herder posted:Good news, all of you were right! We checked out the vacuum manifold and the rubber caps were brittle and cracking. Replaced the caps, adjusted the timing, and it sounds loads better and seems to be fixed. That wouldn't be what was making it run rich though, you have a little more work ahead of you 
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Apr 16, 2023 03:48
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2017 Rav4 XLE. The catalytic converter's heat shield is loose since 3 of it's 4 washer + bolts have disintegrated, which is causing an annoying rattle. Do I really *need* to keep this heat shield, or can I remove it and call it a day? Normally I would replace it but the threading on the bolts is pretty much gone. Alternately I could just put in some new stainless steel self tapping machine screws and washers.  Edit: Screw it I'll just put in some new ss hex head bolts melon cat fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Apr 16, 2023 |
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Apr 16, 2023 16:39
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There are largely no "extra parts" on cars, which are cost engineered to save pennies per unit.
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Apr 16, 2023 16:54
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