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tildes
Nov 16, 2018

tarlibone posted:

…(My ankles are wrecked from being so fast for so long; low- to no-impact is all my joints can manage.)…

This took me a few rereads before I finally figured out the typo from the context clues and understood this was not a confusing humblebrag about annihilating your ankles with your incredible torque you generate as you zip along on your bike.

It is sort of novel being in an activity where being tall is not a benefit. Starting rock climbing and now biking is really a one two punch in terms of your perception of being too heavy

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tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

tildes posted:

This took me a few rereads before I finally figured out the typo from the context clues and understood this was not a confusing humblebrag about annihilating your ankles with your incredible torque you generate as you zip along on your bike.

It is sort of novel being in an activity where being tall is not a benefit. Starting rock climbing and now biking is really a one two punch in terms of your perception of being too heavy

Gosh dang it. Ankles are wrecked from being fat for so long.

I love posting from my phone. Swipe-typing never fails to keep my posts entertaining.

Shadowhand00
Jan 23, 2006

Golden Bear is ever watching; day by day he prowls, and when he hears the tread of lowly Stanfurd red,from his Lair he fiercely growls.
Toilet Rascal

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

two questions: switching to an enve gravel carbon handlebar for my gravel bike and i want to get a different stem, something with a better integrated mount setup rather than putting poo poo on the bars. suggestions? zipp and enve both have their own stem + mount systems that look mostly ok, i see specialized has a stem that i could use a k-edge mount with...anything else i should check out? not sure its worth getting a carbon stem.

second thing, i bought a used specialized mirror seat from someone off pinkbike last summer and have yet to install it...i noticed there's a bit of play in the seat rail where it connects to the body of the seat:

https://imgur.com/a/bfroiXW

so while its noticeable if i put some pressure on one side of it or the other (still at most a mm or two) if i hold both rails and try to flex it, i really cant get any movement, so maybe holding one side makes the flexing look worse than it really is?

there's room where the seat rail fits into the body that i could inject some epoxy into it and see if that works...or try to send into specialized and see what they say/do

Its not super helpful since I bought directly from Specialized (Ebay), but I contacted customer care and they sent me a new saddle when I showed them a video of this happening. Since this is a second hand purchase, maybe you can get the original owner to send in a warranty request for you?

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

OBAMNA PHONE posted:

two questions: switching to an enve gravel carbon handlebar for my gravel bike and i want to get a different stem, something with a better integrated mount setup rather than putting poo poo on the bars. suggestions? zipp and enve both have their own stem + mount systems that look mostly ok, i see specialized has a stem that i could use a k-edge mount with...anything else i should check out? not sure its worth getting a carbon stem.


I have the same enve gravel bar with the easton stem + mount. went with it for the same reasons. you can spend as much/little as you like on the stem and pair it with the mount. no complaints and I have a much cleaner bar setup. pairs well with the knog bell.

https://eastoncycling.com/products/easton-icm-mount

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
whats the deal with those pedals that use a basket like end to keep your foot in

i've only ever used normal flat pedals but plan to get on the clip wagon soon, for the exotic upstroke thrust

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


Turmoilx posted:

whats the deal with those pedals that use a basket like end to keep your foot in

i've only ever used normal flat pedals but plan to get on the clip wagon soon, for the exotic upstroke thrust

Those are classic 'clip' pedals as opposed to 'clipless' that we all love

my wife loves 'clips' and refuses to use 'clipless' so I guess I can answer any questions you have

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
You can get toe clips that don't have a strap over the top. Pretty nice for keeping contact with the pedal without actually being attached to it. Zefal at the cheap end, MKS at the spendy end.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

I tried putting a speed+cadence sensor on but the shop torqued the pedals on there so hard that the flats are rounding off, same with the hex opening on the spindle end. I checked which direction to turn it before I started and then doublechecked when nothing was budging.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
this could help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9rvqKjJZSw&t=668s

are you sure you stripped the hex? hex keys are prone to stripping out easily if there's any crud in the head of the bolt, you might check to see if the tool isnt going in all the way due to debris.

drive side or non drive side? you do remember that the left pedal is reverse threaded, right? rightey loosey lefty tighty for the non drive side

if you havent stripped the bolt head:

spray some real thread penetrant on the threads, try a few applications and let it soak for 24 hours and try again
if that doesnt work, remove the crank arm and put pedal or hex key into vice and try to turn the crank to loosen it. if it's on the drive side this probably wont work.

and if you did strip it just take it into a shop

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

brand engager posted:

I tried putting a speed+cadence sensor on but the shop torqued the pedals on there so hard that the flats are rounding off, same with the hex opening on the spindle end. I checked which direction to turn it before I started and then doublechecked when nothing was budging.

I'm confused why you'd need to take the pedals off to put a cadence sensor on.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Instructions said to and these aren't going to stretch enough to slip it over the pedal and onto the crank arm.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Interesting. I've never seen one that would require that - the wahoo and garmin ones just zip tie or strap on. Good luck!

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

You can try getting the allen key/pedal wrench oriented so you can grip it with both hands against the crank arm and apply more torque that way to help pop it free.

Deffo grease the pedal threads upon reinstallation. Precession is no joke!

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

brand engager posted:

Instructions said to and these aren't going to stretch enough to slip it over the pedal and onto the crank arm.

Which cadence sensor is this??

Pretty much every cadence sensor I've seen just uses one silicone band / o-ring. You position the sensor on the crankarm, then loop it around the pair of hooks on each side no pedal removal necessary.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

amenenema posted:

You can try getting the allen key/pedal wrench oriented so you can grip it with both hands against the crank arm and apply more torque that way to help pop it free.

Deffo grease the pedal threads upon reinstallation. Precession is no joke!


Position crank forward. Position wrench forward. Hold rear brake. Step on pedal. Pull wrench up/back.

Find someone to help steady the bike if needed.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

It's a duotrap s

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

brand engager posted:

It's a duotrap s

Ah, I see. https://retailerassetsprd.blob.core...HTFInUlT%2Fo%3D

You sure you were trying to loosen the correct direction since it's non drive side? As someone mentioned above, make sure you're loosening towards the back of the bike (to the right).

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

This isn't gonna work, the wrench is yielding

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret

brand engager posted:

This isn't gonna work, the wrench is yielding


I would say it has yielded.

Sphyre
Jun 14, 2001

brand engager posted:

This isn't gonna work, the wrench is yielding


:stare:

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



brand engager posted:

This isn't gonna work, the wrench is yielding


Ok I know you said you’re turning it in the right direction but the hex key is rotating in the opposite direction than the crank arms would be if you’re pedaling normally, right?

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

brand engager posted:

This isn't gonna work, the wrench is yielding


When I replaced my pedals a few weeks ago, I could not get one of those dinky hex keys to work. I happen to have larger T-handle versions, so I tried those, but the factory pedals still wouldn't budge.

Eventually, I had success with an open-end wrench and a judicious application of my body weight via my foot.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Ok I know you said you’re turning it in the right direction but the hex key is rotating in the opposite direction than the crank arms would be if you’re pedaling normally, right?

Yeah when I was trying to use a wrench on the outside of the spindle I was rotating clockwise (reverse-threaded on the non-drive side) when facing the left side of the bike. Since the hex opening is on the end of the spindle I have to face it from the right side of the bike and rotate counter-clockwise to go in the same direction as when I was facing it from the left.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

The picture implies that he is trying to turn it in the correct direction to remove the pedal.

Make this the shop's problem imo.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Did they put red loctite on there or something?

I don't see how an alloy crank can sustain that much tightening torque without just stripping out the thread, whereas a locking compound would make taking it out excruciating without it having to be overtightened in the first place

Boogalo
Jul 8, 2012

Meep Meep





I can never remember which side is reverse threaded.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Boogalo posted:

I can never remember which side is reverse threaded.

Whichever it is, and whether you’re using a hex head or pedal flats:

Rotate towards the back of the bike to loosen

Rotate towards the front of the bike to tighten.

Assuming of course the bike is the right way up.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
Might be impact driver time, none of this bodes well though.

I agree, bike shop problem.

tacosupreme
Jun 24, 2006
ask me about men.
Strategically planning my next n+1... any idea when I'll be able to get the cool new derailleur hanger technology on a neat gravel or road bike?

I've considered showing up to the group ride in that new cirrus but I don't know if I have quite the gumption for that route.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

You'll be sorry you made fun of me when Daddy Donald jails all my posting enemies!

tacosupreme posted:

he cool new derailleur hanger technology
?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

tacosupreme posted:

Strategically planning my next n+1... any idea when I'll be able to get the cool new derailleur hanger technology on a neat gravel or road bike?

I've considered showing up to the group ride in that new cirrus but I don't know if I have quite the gumption for that route.

A small number of gravel bikes already use SRAM UDH.
I'd expect more to follow. Dunno if road will do the same though.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

assuming they're talking about direct mount that SRAM just launched with their new MTB groupset. Lots of videos of people standing/jumping on their derailleurs and then it still working perfectly


Anyways, also a good time to mention using anti-seize on your pedal threads

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Slavvy posted:

Did they put red loctite on there or something?

I don't see how an alloy crank can sustain that much tightening torque without just stripping out the thread, whereas a locking compound would make taking it out excruciating without it having to be overtightened in the first place

Galvanic corrosion between the steel pedal spindle threads and alloy threads from not using anti-seize.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

I don't think it was corroded, I've barely had it for a month and they grease them. They got both off but he broke the first pedal wrench he tried, said he had been using that one since he started working there in the 2000s :rip:

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


I put the same park tool polylube on everything as god intended

Shadowhand00
Jan 23, 2006

Golden Bear is ever watching; day by day he prowls, and when he hears the tread of lowly Stanfurd red,from his Lair he fiercely growls.
Toilet Rascal

HAIL eSATA-n posted:

I put the same park tool polylube on everything as god intended

Same, put polylube on my thru axles as well as my pedals.

Buck Turgidson
Feb 6, 2011

𓀬𓀠𓀟𓀡𓀢𓀣𓀤𓀥𓀞𓀬

brand engager posted:

This isn't gonna work, the wrench is yielding


Dear god

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
When I threw the Shimano clipless pedals on my bike (PD-EH500), I used some general purpose lithium grease that I have in a little tub that'll probably last me forever.

Speaking of putting things on bikes... it's Amazon day! There's a moonlight ramble ride later this year that I plan on doing. It's not very long or challenging, and part of the fun is lighting up the bike. A few years ago, my wife and I saw that all the kids at the place where we go camping like to light up their bikes, and we got some stuff to do that, but this year, I'm going to be a bit more obnoxious about it. This stuff isn't going on my road bike; given the general vibe of the ride, I'll either take my Escape or my State 4130 single speed.

I'm especially happy that this tail light will definitely increase my visibility, even if it does hang lower than my factory equipped units currently do.



If you're wondering, yes, of course I sniffed that tail light. It smells of China in the most chemically way; I'm pretty sure it's 10% fentanyl.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Okay I'm no longer worried about this bike I'm building being an abomination.

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EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Boogalo posted:

I can never remember which side is reverse threaded.

They loosen the way you pedal.

By this I mean once you put the tool in/on imagine keeping the tool oriented the same way while using it to spin the cranks forwards.

That's the rotation you want the tool to make in relation to the crank.

EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Apr 20, 2023

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